Charcoal Blue
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- Опубліковано 6 кві 2024
- Charcoal bluing was a common method of bluing firearms in the 19th and early 20th centuries, used by nearly all the firearms manufacturers of the time. It's an art that's been nearly lost, practiced only by a select few firearms restorers today. Join us as we make our first attempt at producing charcoal blue at Wyoming Armory.
Thanks Mark for this presentation. I remember a gunshop in the Santa Anna, CA area in the early 1970s that did charcoal bluing.
I never cared for it because the acids in my hands would strip off the finish. I have done rust blue in the past and it is much more durable.
Done correctly, charcoal blue has the reputation of being more durable than rust blue or hot caustic blue. These test pieces are difficult to put a scratch in, even when intentionally trying to. I'm not sure what process that gunshop was using, but it doesn't sound like traditional charcoal blue. The Italians are using a method similar to "nitre" or "heat" blue and calling it charcoal blue these days. It's not durable at all. I suspect that's what was being done in the gunshop you mentioned as well.
Charcoal Blue is new to me. Thanks for the information.
In addition to the charcoal bluing experiment, it was good to see Heart Mountain in the background as you bid us viewers Happy Trails. 👍
I have been waiting for videos like this. very interested in the different bluing and case color processes. Thanks
Thanks for bringing us along for the experiment!
Thanks Mark.
Thank you Sir! Always learning!
Thank you Mark.
Wow! Very interesting!👍🏽😀❤️🇺🇸
Great vid, Mark😊
Great idea Mark can't wait to see the rest of the series on this subject ! Maybe that 600 grit side that was blotchy might be good for restoration work to match existing finish or just to make it look much older and used ??
Ive never seen charcoal blueing done before, that was neat! The 400 grit smoothed surface seems like the best response from the process.
Looks like you're settling in nicely! Very interesting. I have never heard of or seen this technique. That 400 really did turn out nice, interested to see how this shakes out...
Colt Royal Blue Charcoal/Bone Bluing Finish 😀😊😀
Hi Mark! Loved the view of Heart mountain. I was just out in Cody last week, great area. I had stopped into Wyoming Armoury last year for some parts for my 1885 Winchester. I should have stopped in last week as well. Sure like your video's and all the information you present in them. Heading out there again in a month or two, and plan on going to the Gun show in Cody in July. What a dream come true for you buying the Wyoming Armoury business, congratulations!!
Looks very interesting. Thank you for sharing that!
I hope you’re able to get out into the beautiful wide open country we see you in, in previous videos. Good luck to you and your family.
It was hard to tell but it looked like the 2 that were not as nice were facing the outside of the canaster. The 400 grit faced the center. I've never done any of this but I have studied it some. What I've read is you want at least 2 inches of the charcoal between the part and outside of the canaster. Have you found this to be a fact?
Thanks. That's great information. I'll try the next batch in a bigger crucible and see if it makes a difference.
Another very interesting science project. Seems like 400 grit might be the sweet spot. Wondering if 360 grit would be better, worse or similar 🤔
When I was in college I built 3 Dixie Gun Works black powder revolvers from kits. I charcoal blued them. I just broke up enough bbq grill charcoal to cover the parts and heated it up over a camp stove.. I rubbed the parts with cotton balls dipped in lime until I got the color I wanted. Came out great. I got the directions from a booklet by Kit Ravenshear.. I did this in the early 70's. I still have one and it still looks good. Enjoy your videos.
Thanks for watching our channel. Do you recall approximately how long it took to get the color you wanted? I cooked this batch for 2 hours. I did a second batch for 2 1/2 hours and it didn't come out as good. I may be leaving them in the charcoal too long.
@@thecinnabar8442 I think I pulled the parts out every 10-15 minutes to swab them. I just had them cooking in a bread pan. I don't think it took over an hour once the charcoal started glowing a bit.
Hope you're enjoying your new home and surroundings.
Well that is really interesting Mark! i also found that a fine polished surface did not give the best reflected blue colour so stopped at 350 grit, and it is interesting that some Winchester receivers have that blotchy appearance, I wonder if that is due to the receiver having been over polished before bluing. I assume you are quoting degrees F. You may get a more reliable finish if you seal the lid with fireclay, and put a piece of paper on top of the charcoal before you seal it to burn off oxygen. Good luck, and keep us posted! Chris B.
Ive found that for my rust bluing, polishing past 320 grit gives poor results. I suspect it’s similar for the charcoal bluing.
Hello I have an original 26" octagonal barrel 2nd generation winchester 1895 in 40-72 that doesn't function who can I send it to to fix it? Thank You
Very interesting. Wonder if the blotchy finish on the two panels are because they were facing outward towards the metal crucible or because they were facing inward away from the crucible? If the color or consistency in the color is from out gassing, it may be controlled by a bigger crucible or due to contamination already on the crucibles walls from previous operations and materials.One thing I learned from doing Physical Vapor Deposition, is that it takes very little out gassing to impact a finishes color. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to seeing some more testing on this.
Love your videos! Can you do a video on the Winchester model 71
Could you be seeing the grain in the steel caused by the rolling process?
very interesting process....wonder if maybe you'll need to get further down in the steel past the surface scale etc. on that rolled material , cold or hot rolled might make a difference as well , be interesting to see what it does to higher carbon type stuff
I removed the surface scale before I ever started polishing the test pieces, then polished to 400grit, 600 grit and mirror finish. At this time, I'm only experimenting with mild steel because that's what was used for receivers from the timeframe when charcoal bluing was used. When I get close to the finish I'm after, I'll start using actual donor receivers from that era to make sure the results are transferable to the metallurgy of the day.
Maybe in the future you can even try browning like we do on our muzzleloaders but not sure there would be a need for it in your business there but still would make good watching for folks ?
I believe that colt used to use fish oil on their percussion guns.
Your cooking too hot. 620-650 is ideal for carbona blue.