Another great episode, Jimmy. I really enjoy your Q&As. I *slightly* disagree with your answer to @judemcclain. I would have said "it depends on your needs." If Jude is looking to build his roster of rolling stock, then your answer is absolutely correct. However, If Jude is looking to build his modeling skills - for example, weathering, painting, repairing, detailing, etc. - then buying *very* inexpensive models on eBay (or at swap meets) can make a lot of sense. It takes a *lot* of courage to start weathering a $25 car: ruin it and you're out a bunch of money. But if you have, say, a $3 car, the stakes are a lot lower, and you can proceed with no fear of a bad outcome. Cheers.
@@judemcclain Also, and I'm sure that you'll figure this out eventually usually bid items don't start running up until the auction is practically over, so $25 with 6 days left doesn't say much especially with higher end stuff like Kato, chances are people will try to snipe the item. You might also want to also look at "buy it now" items just so you don't have to deal with the stress of bidding. IMO the best place to get deals is to look for train shows, ones with lots of vendors or even just a local club selling it like a garage sale you're bound to find some good deals, almost all are worth the admission. The unfortunate thing is if you didn't have any near by... like ever, but you'll have to do some google searching to find out in whatever part of the country/world you happen to be at.
In addition to this watch out for “New” ads on older locomotives. It may have never been used but is already 5-6 years old and being advertised at the same price as the newest run of that loco. You will see this frequently with ScaleTrains locomotives.
The model train stores on eBay Jimmy mentioned (Model Train Market, Trainz and Iron Planet Hobbies) have their own websites and the prices are usually cheaper than on eBay.
Three questions for you sir. 1) What is a safe grade for N scale? Most say you want a 2-4% grade, but that is around 12-16 feet of track you need to achieve that grade and have a comfortable 4" hight for overpasses. Do modern locomotives need that low of a grade? 2) What is the minimum clearance needed for bridges/tunnels for the tallest N scale freight car? I can't seem to be able to find a definite answer online. 3) What are your thoughts on Peco track? Especially in regards to N scale and their turnouts. Do all the frogs need to be juiced or do the insulfrogs run smoothly?
Thanks for answering my question Jimmy! Also, I can attest to the quality of fusion decals. They print them to order, and they look great and are easy to apply.
I found dual gauge track for HO and HOn30. Tillig makes a nice line of track, a bit expensive but worth it. I built a set of 2x4 sections with dual gauge.
I will say that Fusion will not make the artwork for you if you need custom decals. You'll have to make it yourself or commission someone else to do the design work. Circus City Decals will do the artwork for you at $60/hour of design time. So far, both have decent quality for decals. Fusion also carries decals for a fair number of Chicago interurban and commuter roads, which is fun
The MRC Nexxt system will also have walk-around throttle support without wires. I'll send you an email and see if we can sort out a live demo on the near future.
I was talking to some G-scale guys a couple weeks ago, and they literally remove all the buildings from their layout when their main display time is done--otherwise they have to repair them a lot more often. UV is a killer of plastics.
Power Question : I have just finished a simple 50 foot, folded dogbone layout (single track and single engine) with two dead (no power) turn-outs. I have a new Spectrum On30 2-8-0 and a new MRC Railpower 1370 powerpack. I have used one and then 4 feeder lines for power across the layout. At full-power the train light just barely comes on but the engine never moves and the powerpack light shows a significant drain with no movement of the engine... what could be the issue. Thank You in advance for your support and experience. Lee
Regarding insulated rail joiners, definitely needed to use them for my Peco electrofrog turnouts. I have a couple of crossovers using them, and there’d be all kinds of shorts if I didn’t use insulated joiners.
Another question, what is the best place to get cheap water slide decals? I am custom painting an n scale f unit in the cp rail paint scheme. Love the vids!!
Howdy Jimmy! This morning I'm having some Black Ivory Coffee! Kidding... having plain old Folgers classic roast... lol! Like I could afford Black Ivory coffee...
On the second point, not really. It's pretty much "connect the same track wires to a new controller". However, you will need to convert your locomotives to DCC--DC locomotives at best won't work on DCC (at worst they'll fry). First point? that's entirely your call.
I'm not new to trains but I'm new to the modeling aspect, and was considering hand laying track, however there isn't a clear answer of where to get rail for 3 rail o scale, any recommendations?
Thanks for the great vid! I'm drinking some Irving Farm coffee right now :) I was wondering if you've had any experience ordering 3D printed N scale locos or rolling stock from a custom 3D printing service? I've been thinking of trying out something like Proto Labs to make some models that aren't manufactured commercially anywhere.
To answer the question one of your viewers Jennifer Kirk Model Railways She's in the UK she did a interview will a gentlemen that has an outside HO layout it's big check it out
What coupler brands work together? How do I couple and uncouple? For example, I just got an Atlas N GP40-2 loco which has Accumate couplers. Do I need to get rolling stock with Accumate couplers or will other couplers work, too. If so, what other couplers?
@billdornbush2475 generally speaking, just about any knuckle coupler will work with just about any other knuckle coupler, possibly with a little bit of difficulty (drop vertically to connect tough ones). If you get those big boxy squares, those don't work with knuckle couplers. If you get rolling stock with incompatible couplers, you can either check the box again (some manufacturers will send two coupler types) or buy replacement couplers of your favorite type and swap those in. For coupling, typically you'll just roll one car into the next and they'll couple--if not, lift one coupler over the other and you should be fine. Uncoupling...depends if you're set up with magnetic uncouplers or not, but a bamboo skewer or pencil or similar is a typical strategy to uncouple.
The best way is to find the brand of coupler you like and convert the others to that brand. You can buy in small batches to convert with a car or two with one coupler you choose on one side and the other side of the car another brand until you get them all converted. Myself I prefer Micro-Train couplers for N scale and Kadee for HO scale. If you keep a standard coupler for your rolling stock, it's easier to maintain and no worries if they will couple up to each other.
For DCC you should have feeders every 3-6’ (depending on wire gauge) and on both sides of a turnout since it’s likely isolated. Try to keep the feeders centered on long sections of track so you don’t have a weak signal at the other end if that section is isolated or terminates.
The weak link is not long sections of rail; it is the rail joiners. I apply power to *every* section of track (I use flex track) regardless of length, and to every turnout. This is likely overkill, but since I started this practice, I have never encountered a dead spot in my track. Daryl Cruise (Union Pacific Evanston Sub) provides power to every third piece of track - he reasons that any given piece of track is no more than one rail joiner away (think about it.)
@NoahDutkewycz it depends on the manufacturer as well. For instance, I've heard the Kato big boy pulls more than the BLI big boy. But then BLI has better detail. Just ensure to research what is a priority to you in what you want in your locos.
Jimmy made a DIY speedometer in a video some time back. It was posted 23 Jan 2023 and the episode was titled "Using an Arduino for Model Railroad Speed Matching". Read the various comments appended to the video for suggestions on how to turn Jimmy's hardware into a true scale speedometer.
Has anyone been able to contact Fusion Scale Graphics? I have emailed them 3 times without a response. They do have decals that I would like to use but don't get warm fuzzies since they do not respond.
Even if you don't join the NMRA, it is worth getting a gauge from them.
Another great episode, Jimmy. I really enjoy your Q&As.
I *slightly* disagree with your answer to @judemcclain. I would have said "it depends on your needs." If Jude is looking to build his roster of rolling stock, then your answer is absolutely correct. However, If Jude is looking to build his modeling skills - for example, weathering, painting, repairing, detailing, etc. - then buying *very* inexpensive models on eBay (or at swap meets) can make a lot of sense. It takes a *lot* of courage to start weathering a $25 car: ruin it and you're out a bunch of money. But if you have, say, a $3 car, the stakes are a lot lower, and you can proceed with no fear of a bad outcome. Cheers.
Thank you. I am looking to get more rolling stock so I can make a layout and not just have 6 cars.
@@judemcclain Also, and I'm sure that you'll figure this out eventually usually bid items don't start running up until the auction is practically over, so $25 with 6 days left doesn't say much especially with higher end stuff like Kato, chances are people will try to snipe the item. You might also want to also look at "buy it now" items just so you don't have to deal with the stress of bidding.
IMO the best place to get deals is to look for train shows, ones with lots of vendors or even just a local club selling it like a garage sale you're bound to find some good deals, almost all are worth the admission. The unfortunate thing is if you didn't have any near by... like ever, but you'll have to do some google searching to find out in whatever part of the country/world you happen to be at.
word of caution with eBAY: "looks like new" or "runs like new" does not mean it is new/mint still in the box. Just FYI
In addition to this watch out for “New” ads on older locomotives. It may have never been used but is already 5-6 years old and being advertised at the same price as the newest run of that loco. You will see this frequently with ScaleTrains locomotives.
Been an NMRA member since 2015.
Well Sir. I have following you for a long time and feel you are the best Pro on this train hobby. I am a beginner. I drink Star Bucks Carmel thanks
Enjoyed another one bud
The model train stores on eBay Jimmy mentioned (Model Train Market, Trainz and Iron Planet Hobbies) have their own websites and the prices are usually cheaper than on eBay.
Can confirm with Trainz. They are a couple dollars cheaper
I thought Trainz was a game
@@s71402san There is. But the other is a retailer of model trains and other hobbies. If you like model trains check there site out.
Three questions for you sir. 1) What is a safe grade for N scale? Most say you want a 2-4% grade, but that is around 12-16 feet of track you need to achieve that grade and have a comfortable 4" hight for overpasses. Do modern locomotives need that low of a grade? 2) What is the minimum clearance needed for bridges/tunnels for the tallest N scale freight car? I can't seem to be able to find a definite answer online. 3) What are your thoughts on Peco track? Especially in regards to N scale and their turnouts. Do all the frogs need to be juiced or do the insulfrogs run smoothly?
Have you ever considered getting N scale brass locomotives?
I am a life member of NMRA and ME region, both. consider becoming a life member. I am very happy I did that
If you are looking for a walkaround dcc control, do not forget the Roco/ Fleischmann Z21 with the WLAN . I don’t know that its available in the USA
Thanks for answering my question Jimmy! Also, I can attest to the quality of fusion decals. They print them to order, and they look great and are easy to apply.
Thank you for answereing the chuff question! Love the channel. Great questions on this video! Cheers all. Starbucks whole bean medium grind.
I found dual gauge track for HO and HOn30. Tillig makes a nice line of track, a bit expensive but worth it. I built a set of 2x4 sections with dual gauge.
I will say that Fusion will not make the artwork for you if you need custom decals. You'll have to make it yourself or commission someone else to do the design work.
Circus City Decals will do the artwork for you at $60/hour of design time.
So far, both have decent quality for decals. Fusion also carries decals for a fair number of Chicago interurban and commuter roads, which is fun
The MRC Nexxt system will also have walk-around throttle support without wires.
I'll send you an email and see if we can sort out a live demo on the near future.
Thanks! That’ll help on my dcc system look
Thanks for answering my question! "Can HO scale work outside" I thought the plastic would survive and the rails would fail.
I was talking to some G-scale guys a couple weeks ago, and they literally remove all the buildings from their layout when their main display time is done--otherwise they have to repair them a lot more often. UV is a killer of plastics.
Maybe if you use E-Z track, you could pick it all up and pack it away.
Killer Coffee Darkerside.
Hello, when will there be review on alc42? You said that there would be a review of this a few months ago
Power Question : I have just finished a simple 50 foot, folded dogbone layout (single track and single engine) with two dead (no power) turn-outs. I have a new Spectrum On30 2-8-0 and a new MRC Railpower 1370 powerpack. I have used one and then 4 feeder lines for power across the layout.
At full-power the train light just barely comes on but the engine never moves and the powerpack light shows a significant drain with no movement of the engine... what could be the issue.
Thank You in advance for your support and experience.
Lee
Regarding insulated rail joiners, definitely needed to use them for my Peco electrofrog turnouts. I have a couple of crossovers using them, and there’d be all kinds of shorts if I didn’t use insulated joiners.
Circus City Decals is a good source for custom decals
Another question, what is the best place to get cheap water slide decals? I am custom painting an n scale f unit in the cp rail paint scheme. Love the vids!!
If you are printing for profit, please, for the love of God, ensure it's a complete print! For the basic and obvious reasons. Cheers!
Thanks for answering my question big help
Howdy Jimmy! This morning I'm having some Black Ivory Coffee! Kidding... having plain old Folgers classic roast... lol! Like I could afford Black Ivory coffee...
How about some Maxwell House!!!
Question, at what point (layout size wise) would you recommend switching to DCC and is it really difficult if everything I have is only DC?
On the second point, not really. It's pretty much "connect the same track wires to a new controller". However, you will need to convert your locomotives to DCC--DC locomotives at best won't work on DCC (at worst they'll fry). First point? that's entirely your call.
Just getting back into hobby. Will be modeling in HO. What paint is best for repainting old locomotives and rolling stock? I do have airbrush
I'm not new to trains but I'm new to the modeling aspect, and was considering hand laying track, however there isn't a clear answer of where to get rail for 3 rail o scale, any recommendations?
Drinking leivas coffee today
One thing about the PowerCab. The PowerCab IS THE DCC SYSTEM! IF YOU UNPLUG IT FROM YOUR LAYOUT WHILE RUNNING TRAINS, YOU WILL LOSE TRACK POWER.
Thanks for the great vid! I'm drinking some Irving Farm coffee right now :) I was wondering if you've had any experience ordering 3D printed N scale locos or rolling stock from a custom 3D printing service? I've been thinking of trying out something like Proto Labs to make some models that aren't manufactured commercially anywhere.
What about engine driver? I use it through Digitrax whyfi connection.
How hard would it be to take a ho scale train set like from hobby lobby, and make it so that I could run either DC and DCC on it?
thanks daddyo
What's your opinion on Ring Engineering's Railpro system
To answer the question one of your viewers Jennifer Kirk Model Railways
She's in the UK she did a interview will a gentlemen that has an outside HO layout it's big check it out
What coupler brands work together? How do I couple and uncouple? For example, I just got an Atlas N GP40-2 loco which has Accumate couplers. Do I need to get rolling stock with Accumate couplers or will other couplers work, too. If so, what other couplers?
@billdornbush2475 generally speaking, just about any knuckle coupler will work with just about any other knuckle coupler, possibly with a little bit of difficulty (drop vertically to connect tough ones). If you get those big boxy squares, those don't work with knuckle couplers. If you get rolling stock with incompatible couplers, you can either check the box again (some manufacturers will send two coupler types) or buy replacement couplers of your favorite type and swap those in. For coupling, typically you'll just roll one car into the next and they'll couple--if not, lift one coupler over the other and you should be fine. Uncoupling...depends if you're set up with magnetic uncouplers or not, but a bamboo skewer or pencil or similar is a typical strategy to uncouple.
The best way is to find the brand of coupler you like and convert the others to that brand. You can buy in small batches to convert with a car or two with one coupler you choose on one side and the other side of the car another brand until you get them all converted. Myself I prefer Micro-Train couplers for N scale and Kadee for HO scale. If you keep a standard coupler for your rolling stock, it's easier to maintain and no worries if they will couple up to each other.
Hey Jimmy! How do you know where to put a track feeder for power when using unitrack?
Both Nscale and HO has feeder tracks that are sold
@@Shadowtiger2564 yes, but how do you figure out the specific location for a power feeder in your unique layout?
For DCC you should have feeders every 3-6’ (depending on wire gauge) and on both sides of a turnout since it’s likely isolated. Try to keep the feeders centered on long sections of track so you don’t have a weak signal at the other end if that section is isolated or terminates.
The weak link is not long sections of rail; it is the rail joiners. I apply power to *every* section of track (I use flex track) regardless of length, and to every turnout. This is likely overkill, but since I started this practice, I have never encountered a dead spot in my track. Daryl Cruise (Union Pacific Evanston Sub) provides power to every third piece of track - he reasons that any given piece of track is no more than one rail joiner away (think about it.)
@@rwissbaum9849 this helps a lot! Thanks!
How many locomotives can you run in one train?
However many locomotives you can speed match. Then you could pull ALL the trains.
Some of the long-train guys at the club I run at have half a dozen, spread through the train.
@@NoahDutkewycz typical rule is 1 NMRA weighted car per driving wheel. Commonly referred to as 2 cars per driving axle. Same, same.
I’m just curious what dcc can do before I buy about 12 locomotives
@NoahDutkewycz it depends on the manufacturer as well. For instance, I've heard the Kato big boy pulls more than the BLI big boy. But then BLI has better detail. Just ensure to research what is a priority to you in what you want in your locos.
I wanted to buy a „Accutrack Speedometer II“ but it is out of production. Nothing on eBay. Is there any alternative that is that easy to use?
Jimmy made a DIY speedometer in a video some time back. It was posted 23 Jan 2023 and the episode was titled "Using an Arduino for Model Railroad Speed Matching". Read the various comments appended to the video for suggestions on how to turn Jimmy's hardware into a true scale speedometer.
Drinking kirkland columbian with a few scoops of ice cream
Has anyone been able to contact Fusion Scale Graphics? I have emailed them 3 times without a response. They do have decals that I would like to use but don't get warm fuzzies since they do not respond.