Model Railroading in Limited Space and more! Monthly Q&A
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- Опубліковано 28 чер 2024
- Digitrax Zephyr
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“The godly may trip seven times, but they will get up again.
But one disaster is enough to overthrow the wicked.
Don’t rejoice when your enemies fall;
don’t be happy when they stumble.
For the Lord will be displeased with you
and will turn his anger away from them.
Don’t fret because of evildoers;
don’t envy the wicked.”
Proverbs 24: 16-19 NLT - Навчання та стиль
Hi Jimmy! When are we going to see what you’re doing on your T-Trak project? I have my own T-Trak layout and love it, but would love to see some of the stuff you’re doing. I’m especially interested in what you might do for a switching yard with the limited space.
If you can choose between UK and USA N scale, choose the latter. Running issues will be much much less, esp. if you pay a little bit more to use kato track. I have learned this the hard way!
Space is a dirty word in model railroading. I model in On30. I used to model in N scale, but the ol' eyes aren't what they used to be. So, I jumped to On30. I do have two layouts. One for shows and a L shaped shelf, switching layout. Dave Meek, Thunder Mesa Mining, has a HOn3 layout design that intrigues me. I scaled it up in AnyRail for On30 with curves that would accommodate my favorite locos, the BLI C-16 2-8-0s. That scale up creates a table 12' x 6'. In my available space that leave a 3' aisle on two sides. Now reach becomes a problem. My available space is creating the problem.
I am fortunate to have an attic space for my layout. My layout is about 26 feet x 4 1/2 feet. The only problem is that it is neither heated nor climatized, so winter and summer are out for working on it. Luckily, I'm also in a local HO modular club that sets up several times a year.
Don't really have a question this time around, but I wanted to say thanks for all the great vids you've made. They've been a huge help!
I enjoy the question and answer videos. I learn alot from those questions and the answers you give.
GOD BLESS 🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖
All of the starter sets you recommend are console style. "Steve's Trains" uses such systems on many of his small layouts. It seems to me this type of command station is disadvantageous for all but the smallest layout. NCE Power Cab allows walk around control which is desirable for operations. The Power Cab is less expensive than the Zephyr and can be expanded seamlessly into multi-user systems even including wireless throttles. Personally, I'm using DCC-EX because of cost. I found your videos on building the command station very helpful.
Hey Jimmy I have a great tip for getting Kato Unitrack cheap. Some Japanese retailers(I use Plaza Japan) sell it directly from Japan for much cheaper than we have in the US. If you are buying at least ~$50 of track it seems to break even on the shipping. The track is nearly half the price as my local hobby shop, they have #6 switches for $11 and #4s for $17. Some of the trains are cheaper too, but not to the same degree as the track.
Hey Jimmy
Just an FYI, I've owned 3 of those Backmann ez command stations and every single one has failed after about 2 years because of the same reason being it over supplys the track with voltage and burns up the locos
I guess what I'm saying is they are a good starter controller but personally I wouldn't use them forever
I drank coffee and tea with my son. I had the NS First Responder train mug while he had a Conrail mug.
Hi Jimmy,
Thanks for all the great videos and answering so many questions .
I think you made a video about converting a RDC model to DCC.
Could you please post a link to that video?
Also have you had a problem with Kato turnouts that the glue got into when ballasting? How did you or how would you fix it?
Thanks in advance for answering my questions.
dcc queston --for next q/a---- With 1 throddle 2 trains running on same track, how quick can you toggle between the two trains to control them?
Model railroading is an exercise in compression modelling -- the smaller the space, the more compression! LOL I Iove the 3-rail simplicity, superb sound and running characteristics of Lionel's Legacy locomotives and am the process of building a 3-rail o-scale shelf switching layout around my 8'x 8' x 11' study on shelves that range from 8" to 20" deep, so anything is possible!
Thank you so much Jimmy, you're awesome.🙏 This is kind of a pipedream but I hope I can own an Allegheny some day.
Model of course😬
hi Jimmy! i am looking at building my first real layout, i cant decide between the three following scales, n scale, ON30, or GC15. i have more then enough space for a 4x8 layout, and have made the dcc-EX system following your tutorial. im looking for a train layout i can have alot of fun just watching it operate by itself with some limited sounds and such and have different lighting systems running on the layout.
As far as coffee goes, i am currently drinking a lovely coffee by my local coffee company, Early bird and its the nighthawk roast
I recommend mastic strips for roadbed. Cut up masonry supply with trauma shears. Reposition with a hair dryer, not a paint stripper. It really holds, and sound deadening.
Regarding DC frog juicers, you should be able to use a switch of some sort. For example, Bullfrog turnout controls. These come from Fast Tracks, but I know there’s also the the Blue(?) turnout controls and I think those have a similar switch. This is a manual switch throw that mounts under the table and will have a rod of some sort that extends to the edge of your layout where you can push or pull to throw the switch. The thing is that there’s also a micro switch inside that unit that will take both power lines coming in and change the power that goes to the frog without needing anything else fancy going on. I hooked up my dc controller to this after I built it to test it and ran my DC Kato tram over it to make sure the wires were all correct before I tried the DCC unit I have plus a dcc loco.
New Rail Models 40018-10, Blue Point Turnout Controller
I have used the Woodland Scenics road bed in HO scale and N scale. I like it a lot. It is easy to apply. I followed the same process as cork. What I like about it is if I have to redo a section of track, the Woodland Scenics road bed is able to be reused.
Sorry to be off topic but I wanted to raise a topic that might be of interest to modelers in the great land downunder. Yes I'm an Aussie and a recent convert to railroad modelling as at nearly 70 years young my eyes are no longer up to RC aircraft modelling and flying. I'm a Kato track devotee like many but run Tomix rolling stock as the Kato couplers are horrendous. Now down to the subject I wished to raise - getting gear for the hobby. In Oz ( and I am sure in many places outside the US, Europe and GB ) trying to get a good range of stock from local suppliers is simply impossible. In my country the prices - loaded up by freight because of the shipping distance downunder - are the stuff of nightmares so it's a case of building slowly. I've ended up having to order from Japan at times as local retailers simply don't stock some items (Japan plaza are very good) many of the retailers over there will ship free for a good number of items and the price can be as much as 15% lower than buying from local suppliers. Of course shipping times from Japan to Austraila can be a couple of weeks which is the main drawback.
Thanks for answering my question about wheels. Love your videos!
Well i goofed my question. Wanted to change the shape of a model engine. And i started hacking up cardboard boxes for my mountain. Theres now an N scale layout on top of it.
Hey Jimmy! Just finished a hot cup of Love Supreme, by Dark Matter Coffee Co.
I haven't actually priced it out but I suspect Kato Unitrack, on a per running foot basis, is quite competitive when you figure in the cost of cork roadbed, ballast, and switch motors.
For the person asking about DC vs DCC, I grew up running trains on DC only. DCC hadn't been invented yet. DC was terrible, because the track and locomotive's wheels had to be perfectly clean to run at speeds that looked realistic.
I was always running at near top speed, because the voltage to run slower didn't transmit to the Loco if there was any dirt or corrosion at all.
DCC has a constant voltage, so your engine always gets a good connection unless the track is really dirty.
Another great show. Thanks for sharing.
So why metal wheels over plastic wheels, well jimmy touched on this, and I would like to add that if you store your rolling stock in a place where temperature varies by quite a range of degrees that plastic wheelsets will go out of gauge more so then metal wheel sets, and plastic wheelsets tend to get the track dirty more so then metal.
Nice one Jimmy. Fleischman/Roco do a great dcc starter set in Europe with the z21 starter. It works very well with a number of trains and has a wifi add on to operate with your phone if you wish. No computer needed and it is very economical.
Nicely done
Jimmy great channel. You have been promoting JMRI and I agree it’s great. I have two layouts running w it. But here is a challenge. How do you control functions 29-31??? Seems as though it’s not a feature in work. Lots of trains now have over 28 cool functions. Thnx😢
DC frog jucer is a DPDT switch
You can power a frog with DC, but there is not an automated frog juicer.
Blue Point switch machines would be a good option for this.
I used woodland scenics foam roadbed for n scale for my smallish layout and I love it. I’ve had no reason to not like it. I’ll probably use it for my HO layout (small switching) the I’m planning. If you’ve got curves you might still need to cut it in half and lay one side, then the other.
I adhered it with DAP Alex white paintable caulk and pinned it down with a tack while it dried. Don’t put a lot of weight because it can leave a dent in the foam. I guess that’s the only downside. You can more easily shave foam away and sand it if you’ve got an uneven spot.
Hello Jimmy. How well is your Etsy store for selling your 3D printed kits?
Very cool, super neat and Groovy 👍🏻
Dear Jimmy, just wondering if you know anything about using ambient light for changing the mood of the backdrop. Most model railroads are lit from above and from around the back of the valences. Saw some experimental installation for a product display with several colors or RGB leds of ambient light both from above and beneath on the backdrop of that display. Although this backdrop was kind of abstract, it was really interesting to watch how the color changes from a reddish hue to pale yellow and almost white gave the impression of the sun traveling along the sky. This whilst a blueish hue came up at around the end of the day until the morning, which really gave the impression of a cityscape expanding from streetlight and commercial light. Do you know if anyone is experimenting with this kind of lighting for model railroads? If so, what would you recommend? Thanks in advance for investigating. Cheerio
Hey Jimmy! Community, 100% Columbia medium dark roast. Plan on sending you a layout status soon.
Hi jimmy
I just put in a loksound decoder into my kato fef-3 but for
some reason it jolts a lot on speed step 1
I’m using a power cab
I am finally starting the planning process on my first 3D printed project, but I need some guidance, please. What 3D design software is good for beginners? I've checked out TinkerCAD and it looks too limited. Also, I run Linux, which mostly limits me to cloud-based software (at least in the 3D CAD arena!). Next, besides Shapeways, what custom 3D printing companies are out there? Finally, when uploading my 3D design for custom printing, do I need to slice the model first; and if so, what slicing software should I be using? For this first project, I am just printing a custom brick storefront facade.
Hi, I built a railroad many years ago, I loved it. Because of career, building a family, you know. all of life's challenges I had to quit. I'm 65 now and I thought I was ready to get back to building a new one however I have new challenges in front of me, 3 months ago I found out I have cancer, then just last week I had two strokes. Everything has hit me at once and I don't know how much time I have nor what kind of health (capability) I'll have. I am not giving up just realistic. So I am wondering if it is possible to pick up a smaller model ready built however one I could maybe add things here and there. I really would like one to give me a head start. I would prefer H.O. since I still have some of the H.O. parts from my old railroad. (?) Please let me now what you think?
@claycollins79 - if you would share with us where you are located, it might be possible to connect you with someone local to you who could help you get a layout up and running.
Firstly, folgers breakfast blend, black
Secondly, I would like to get your opinion regarding the precimodels DCC controlled coupler. (I won't post a link because youtube usually doesn't like them). It has a small actuator that will operate the coupler. Are these likely to be too fiddly to be broadly used? I'm assuming they only work in conjunction with a decoder, so any rolling stock that would need this functionality would also require decoders? Could dcc systems handle the proliferation of rolling stock decoders if someone decided to go nuts with these? I think there might be a lot of issues, but I also see potential.
What products in your opinion should I use for maintenance like for my locomotives like lubricant or oil etc?
This question might not make it in, but I’m curious how you decide which industries to include and what non-railroad buildings to add to a layout. I’m going to be planning a new n scale layout when we move and thought I was going to model a prototype, but may have decided against that.
Hi Jimmy! I'm working with a 3'x5' space (sitting on a dining table when in use) and trying to decide between going with t-trak or a sheet of plywood for a base. I want this to be something I can expand off of in a couple years when I hope to move from apartment to a house where I can have a larger dedicated space. I have a very basic doubletrack loop (Kato V17) with DCC-EX right now, but want to add a small yard and an industry or two after deciding on a base to build it on. What are your thoughts on what base I should build on?
Help I am attempting to build your Klondyke single double crossover module using 1X N scale searchlight block signal model train bi-color LEDs Head R/G #s22. You stated there were 8 wires on these units. The ones I received only had 5 wires. Did I buy the wrong lights? Thanks for all your great work.
I have a micro train’s passenger car that won’t go through any less than 15inch kato curve the trucks slew just fine
I’m using Kato N scale unitrack, how do you make the buildings level to the track to service customers?
Hi, how would ypu go about a passenger focused operations layout?
how do I know what size couplers to use Thank you
Got me some Tomix set track; may use it on a module if I can get me a module built. Are the roadbed connections compatible with Kato?
Query, I am planning on an N scale layout with KATO UniTrak. However, I am thinking of laying out my main yard with code 80 Atlas and simply building it on a cork sheet over foam. Is it not true that most yards are pretty flat so you really don't need a raised roadbed?
Please help lol. I have a beautiful pair of Athearn CSX AC4400'S in HO scale, DCC ready. What's the best Plug in sound decoder for an AC4400 that will fit the plug? Are there different types of plugs or are they all 21 pin or whatever? New to DCC
DIY, what would you recommend for space constraints, I want to do an ho scale layout but make it realistic, should I do a point to point or a 4x8?
What do you mean by "realistic"? If you mean track layout, a point to point would look more realistic overall, but a 4x8 can easily be made to look realistic too with clever design and scenery and allow continuous running
@@TheVeeker by realistic I mean to where there is things to do on the layout and customers to serve, and also any tips to make it look great.
Question - How do you go about designing scenery for a new layout? For context I am building a z scale 4ftx8ft layout with an urban setting and I am having trouble visualising scenery/buildings/etc - getting a proper understanding of the scale is hard. It doesnt help that anyrail has about 2 buildings total at z scale.
Can you model both HO scale and N scale?
how many arduino nanos and raspberrys do you use on your layout and what are they controlling
Hi Jimmy. I have built a HO scale layout, and it is almost complete, but I noticed some of my trains hit my Atles switch machine, and I am waiting to replace them with switch machine that goes underneath the layout, is there a way to install that type of machine without removing the switch and ballast?
Hey Jimmy! I am a newer modeler on a fixed budget that is interested in selling off equipment in order to buy new trains but there are so many options to choose from. Do you have any advice?
Hi Jimmy....I installed JMRI and java 11 but I am getting a java exception error. How do I fix it?
Bustello coffee
Does DCC of other brands work with digitrax😊 DCC
Maybe you've covered this before, if so, my apologies. I see great videos on weathering cars, a few on weathering buildings; but, what I can't seem to find is "fixing" people so they don't look plastic. Can you point me to the right place?
Are you ever going to get into hon30
Hello
Poor answer to space restraints. Expected better.