I luv it that you blow the dust away when you slice the plasterboard. That’s exactly what I do. There is too many dust particles throughout the building trade and it’s about minimising what you inhale. When the lights on it you realise just how much a plasterboard actually gives off
Great job Robin, I’ve done the 3rd window with the training and the plasterer has started this week and has been commenting on how good the boarding and walls are.
Something I do with plasterboard that I rarely see others doing, after scoring and breaking I'll fold the board then run my rasp over both cut edges at once before separating my piece. Keeps your edges nice and true and saves having to knock off any lumps that might make the board a bit tight.
That’s what I love about your videos and your work Robin, you explain in in such simple terms a d easy to follow then make it look so easy.... lol. Keep em coming! ;)
Hi robin I hope you and your family all are well sir I’m self build struggle each step but never stop and thanks to you guys who shared your valuable time and expertise doing jobs for others much appreciated sir 🙏🏻
I see you with different brand of drill quite often now, never know what youre going to run with when you bring out new content, im running makita mostly but hikoki seems to be showing up on more aussie construction sites
It’s how I do it. I always try to get the bottom reveal vertical. It looks really cool if you line it up exactly with the wall below. (Takes some figuring when you actually fit the velux) I also would have packed out behind the plasterboard with insulation or blown some foam around to prevent a cold spot
@@willber318 make sure you do. The top flashing is notorious for causing condensation if it’s not insulated. People tend to think the window is leaking but it’s nearly always because someone didn’t bother or didn’t know how important it was to insulate that wafer thin piece of tin.
@@SingleTrack66 I’ve put expanding foam around the frame but I think I’ll put som rock wool behind the plasterboard before I fix it. Hopefully that will be ok. I’m sure it will just end up wet though 🤷♂️
A splayed opening/reveal looks 10 times better than just square ones and will cast less shadow when the sun beams through. Its small details like this that will set the job aside from others. Nice job again. Cheers.😎
I have fitted no end of velux windows and usually board top and bottom then sides, Definitely going to give your method a go next time looks great! Shame I didn't wach this 2 days ago, as I did 2 velux yesterday.
I had to do the same as you over a month ago, wish you had posted this then. You built the roof yourself so you knew the angles were true! I believe the brickies mate must have installed the one I worked on😳😂
Being a site carpenter I envy the work you lads do actually get to take care instead of having to smash it in against the clock want to go on my own but keep getting told not to by family as it’s too much of a risk
Hello Will. None of my business really, I’m a Spark who happens to really like Robin’s work. This is the age old problem, I’ve worked for some terrible companies who don’t care about the standard of work or the time you really need to do it well. If your work is of a good standard (I’m sure it is) don’t hesitate to go out on your own. So many of the trades I know, including myself, took the leap and never looked back. The feeling you have of doing a great job in the time you need outweighs the steady pay packet from a firm. After a while of being recommended, you’ll build up clients and the rates you charge will be much higher. The satisfaction and the higher rates of pay will change your working life and probably your private life too. Whatever you decide, I wish you well and maybe give it some serious thought. All the very best. Gerry.
@@gerryslater4297 cheers Gerry! Yeah I really want do nice work and stand back and look and be proud of what I have done just taking the leap I probably won’t look back it’s just taking the leap initially!
@@gerryslater4297 it’s really hard aswell my company is arguably one of the lowest payers for a big firm but they want a good standard of work and the two just don’t work
I think you’ve answered your own question my friend. In my situation, I’m getting the same money for 3 days a week on my own as I was for 5 on a firm. I may well be just lucky, but it’s a familiar story for lots of my trade mates. Again, best of luck, even if it goes a little wrong, at least you’ve given it a go.
'I've built this roof' well that's always a good start, having a proper joiner build your roofs haha! I'm sure alot of people already know, but a multi tool works well for cutting plasterboard close to the edge instead of the handsaws, you can also cut small width pieces with the multitool that you would struggle with a knife cutting Great job as always, i bet the plasterers love seeing this quality of plasterboarding
I would have deducted double the thickness of the board (25mm) off the overall length of the sides and fitted without removing the top and bottom. Good tip with marking the board though and a spot on job regardless.
That is some beautiful work. Question. Would you not pack out behind the plasterboard with some mineral wool or other insulation to maximise the thermal efficiency and prevent cold spots?
If you do the reveals square from the velux, you can fit in some insulation behind all the reveals. Without insulation the reveals are going to be a cold surface and potentially get condensation on them. Also use foil back board.
Beautiful, I actually prefer this over square reveals, makes the window look bigger, lets more light in (cant prove that one but corners are not in the way ☺), and breaks up all that square symetry everywhere.. Thank you for sharing.
be good to see your own methods of fitting velux windows robin. fitted a fair few and built a fair few roofs but ive changed a lot of how ive worked since watching your videos
Great video but wondered why when you got the angle marked onto the offcut, why did you not just transfer the angle onto the 2 pieves you hadnt put up yet? Instead of taking down the pieces you already put up? That would also remove the need to cut around the timbers.
A splayed edge is great, but how do you do this while having 52.5 mm insulated plasterboard instead of the normal 12.5mm(which you seem to have)? The point at which one attaches the screws would be too far in surely?
Hi Robin, I was wondering if you knew any comprehensive books I could purchase? I’ve always loved working with wood but having not really had the opportunity due to work and other life commitments. Having watched your videos it has solidified I want a career in carpentry and won’t stop until I’m there. Thank you so much for this and for your content!
Good shout, some of the 25mm backed stuff would surely make a difference. Think you could end up losing the frame behind it by the time it’s beaded and skimmed ?
I just use a tape for depth,,do longest opposites first, then just use a speed square to mark the angles. Squirt of foam adhesives bind and screw and they never move
Out of interest, which way do you think looks best? I have some to do soon and I was thinking the extra insulation could be more beneficial than the extra light, as there should be plenty of light either way, but ultimately esthetics is key. Cheers.
Nice one, looks class, don’t suppose you would know anything about insulating between rafters ? Should I get some slate vents in the roof to ventilate above them before boarding and plastering? Reluctant to start and then the roof sweats and all the timbers rot. 120 year old house. Cheers
@@liamg9846thight fit rigid insulation between the rafters, leaving a minimum 50mm air gap between the insulation and the felt. Use a good breathable roofing membrane, and dont stretch the membrane tight. The proper way to fit a breathable membrane is to let the membrane slight sag between each rafter. You could also double batten the roof for extra airflow below the slates, so a batten directly on top of rafters first, the batten as normal. Use a vapour barrier on the warm side of the insulation and also foil back plasterboard.
Interesting way of doing the reveals. I can get a sneaky 25mm of PIR in the reveals if I set it 90 to the window. I guess this can distribute the light a bit better. Hmm may give it a go.
Good tips Robin. What's the reason for the original exterior wall above the steel being boarded at an angle? Aesthetics? Not seen that done before, looks good👍
Just built a similar roof myself and the building inspector has had me put 100mm kingspan in between the rafters then 50mm kingspan over the rafters to stop heat transfer. It doesn’t look like you’ve had to do the same. Is there a reason for this or have I just got a jobsworth inspector. Good tip with the plasterboard.
Very nice Robin. Is that the same house where u did that beautiful deck? It seems to b where u hang your hat, your house. Also, those humongous front doors. And the swimming pool?
Robin, surely if you had deducted 25mm from the length of the top and bottom pieces [2x12.5mm, assume], that would negate the second part of cutting them to length. The sides fitted, then the top and bottom would be the right size to fit. Or, install the sides first, then measure lengths of top and bottom.
@@saltychannel21 - Because this is not the US! As you may not have noticed, Robin is using the far easier way to take measurements - in metric. The boards are 9mm and 12.5mm in Europe and most other places!
@@thetessellater9163 im in the uk and have been a joiner/ builder for the last 25 years. I generally use inches as its usually easier to remember measurements when your not trying to remember numbers in the thousands. I sometimes use metric if its nearest to a round number but generally use inches as its more simple to remember measurements usually. Sometimes i use a mixture haha so it might be 87 inches and about 5mm. The only time i use metric is when fitting kitchen's as everything comes in metric sizes so its the only time when metric is the simplest option and even then i still revert back to imperial when cutting fillers and worktops. People i work with find it hilarious when i give them mixed measurements
@@arselickerfc9316 possibly yeah,minimal. If the window hasn't been fitted perfectly even gaps all the way round then the angles can look odd and wonky. If I've fitted the window myself I know it'll be right but more often than not it's a roofer who'll drop them in and not quite take so much care.
I like the way you took all the measurements to start.. that can't be right surely if you fit top and bottom board first that side piece ain't fitting it needs re-measuring as the gap will surely be smaller
I took the overall length measurements to enable me to cut all the material in one go, the next step was to mark cut and fix the boards in situ and this makes it real easy, hope that helps mate
I am pedantic with my roof window reveals, only perfect will do even if that means battening out on dimishing packers. Keen eyes will spot a wonky reveal from a mile away.
Everything this man does is precision I love to see it.....and as anybody who is talented at something makes it look super easy.
What is sad he just forgot to fit the vapour barrier between the rafters and the plasterboard. But plasterboards are precisely cut.
You can always tell if a carpenter is proud of his work by the way he glides his hand over his work 10:16.
@quattro blood his got hands like leather
I cannot over emphasise how impeccable your timing is with this video for me right now
Thats great mate!!
Ditto, thank you.
🖖❤️👍
There is nothing better than timely advice. I’m actually doing this very job tomorrow. Thanks Robin for the great tips and the time I’m going to save.
Glad it was helpful!
Genius with the doubling up on the cuts, not seen that before, cheers!!!🤔😁
A pleasure to watch. A true craftsman.
Pure genius. Thank you so much for passing your skills on to others. Is much appreciated.
I luv it that you blow the dust away when you slice the plasterboard. That’s exactly what I do. There is too many dust particles throughout the building trade and it’s about minimising what you inhale. When the lights on it you realise just how much a plasterboard actually gives off
Really appreciate this I’ve definitely spent 4-5 times longer than you did faffing around with measurements doing the same thing
just had a job like it but my boss made me pack it out and make the reveals square, definitely going to use this method next👌🏻
Yeah you waste a lot of light access to the room when they're square
Great job Robin, I’ve done the 3rd window with the training and the plasterer has started this week and has been commenting on how good the boarding and walls are.
Top man, I am well pleased that you have been able to put this into practice, have a great week!!!
Everyone needs a clean break. If you ever produced workwear Robin there’s a t shirt right there.
Excellent tutorial.
Something I do with plasterboard that I rarely see others doing, after scoring and breaking I'll fold the board then run my rasp over both cut edges at once before separating my piece. Keeps your edges nice and true and saves having to knock off any lumps that might make the board a bit tight.
Beat me to that comment mate. Makes life so much easier 👍
follow this video step by step and worked a treat!! thank u very much for posting
Your welcome Colin, thanks for watching!!
I’ll remember this, too many times I’ve been doing similar work with a sliding bevel and roofing square. Cheers Robin
Nice an tidy work ,fits like it should do .👍👍
That’s what I love about your videos and your work Robin, you explain in in such simple terms a d easy to follow then make it look so easy.... lol. Keep em coming! ;)
Hey Robin,
Do you have any video content showing how to replace Newel posts on stairs?
Thank you in advance.
Hi robin I hope you and your family all are well sir
I’m self build struggle each step but never stop and thanks to you guys who shared your valuable time and expertise doing jobs for others much appreciated sir 🙏🏻
Very nice, I did put 3 pieces in each part so its flat with no angle but now I think I'll do this tomorrow. looks way nicer.
work of art as always robin, consistency is key in all facets of life and absolutely true when it come to craft such as yours
I see you with different brand of drill quite often now, never know what youre going to run with when you bring out new content, im running makita mostly but hikoki seems to be showing up on more aussie construction sites
It’s how I do it. I always try to get the bottom reveal vertical. It looks really cool if you line it up exactly with the wall below. (Takes some figuring when you actually fit the velux) I also would have packed out behind the plasterboard with insulation or blown some foam around to prevent a cold spot
Good point, though foam can be so messy
Under part L you need to defo fill those spaces behind the plasterboard, you can just use Rock wool as it can be classed as a void on the reveal.
This is why I’m watching this as I need to insulate mine. I’ve foamed around the velux but need to insulate and board them.
@@willber318 make sure you do. The top flashing is notorious for causing condensation if it’s not insulated. People tend to think the window is leaking but it’s nearly always because someone didn’t bother or didn’t know how important it was to insulate that wafer thin piece of tin.
@@SingleTrack66 I’ve put expanding foam around the frame but I think I’ll put som rock wool behind the plasterboard before I fix it. Hopefully that will be ok. I’m sure it will just end up wet though 🤷♂️
This was the video I needed, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic - saved me hours and the end result looks amazing!
Make sure you put a screw through the wire at 10:40. Give the moaning electrician something to really whine about.
A splayed opening/reveal looks 10 times better than just square ones and will cast less shadow when the sun beams through. Its small details like this that will set the job aside from others. Nice job again. Cheers.😎
Thanks mate, have a good week!!
i watch Robins videos all the time but i am so jealous how bloody easy he makes it look :D
I have fitted no end of velux windows and usually board top and bottom then sides,
Definitely going to give your method a go next time looks great!
Shame I didn't wach this 2 days ago, as I did 2 velux yesterday.
Perfection as usual 👍
Just the video I needed!!!! Been pondering how to tackle this job in our attic. Cheers and happy new year
i saw that quick editing of it being done and then you going back to the show ..... nice. Robin Clever.
Cheers Robin, I've got just that very job to do.
Clearly you've done that before - many times! Nice video - thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Quality work 👏
Thank you 🙌
Nice work Robin
I had to do the same as you over a month ago, wish you had posted this then. You built the roof yourself so you knew the angles were true! I believe the brickies mate must have installed the one I worked on😳😂
Great video robin
Being a site carpenter I envy the work you lads do actually get to take care instead of having to smash it in against the clock want to go on my own but keep getting told not to by family as it’s too much of a risk
Hello Will. None of my business really, I’m a Spark who happens to really like Robin’s work.
This is the age old problem, I’ve worked for some terrible companies who don’t care about the standard of work or the time you really need to do it well. If your work is of a good standard (I’m sure it is) don’t hesitate to go out on your own. So many of the trades I know, including myself, took the leap and never looked back. The feeling you have of doing a great job in the time you need outweighs the steady pay packet from a firm. After a while of being recommended, you’ll build up clients and the rates you charge will be much higher. The satisfaction and the higher rates of pay will change your working life and probably your private life too. Whatever you decide, I wish you well and maybe give it some serious thought. All the very best. Gerry.
@@gerryslater4297 cheers Gerry! Yeah I really want do nice work and stand back and look and be proud of what I have done just taking the leap I probably won’t look back it’s just taking the leap initially!
@@gerryslater4297 it’s really hard aswell my company is arguably one of the lowest payers for a big firm but they want a good standard of work and the two just don’t work
I think you’ve answered your own question my friend.
In my situation, I’m getting the same money for 3 days a week on my own as I was for 5 on a firm.
I may well be just lucky, but it’s a familiar story for lots of my trade mates.
Again, best of luck, even if it goes a little wrong, at least you’ve given it a go.
Thats nice advice Gerry, thanks you mate
Super quick, super accurate and It's a good job every time
Liked that free running blade on the corner angle cut....true trade man)!c'mon DIY will pull a straight edge for a 5 "cut.lol
Where’s your insulation around Velux and your vapour barrier?
Amazing Robin. Spot on.👍👏👏
Glad you think so!
Great tip. I’m forever pissing around with bevels.
'I've built this roof' well that's always a good start, having a proper joiner build your roofs haha! I'm sure alot of people already know, but a multi tool works well for cutting plasterboard close to the edge instead of the handsaws, you can also cut small width pieces with the multitool that you would struggle with a knife cutting
Great job as always, i bet the plasterers love seeing this quality of plasterboarding
So helpful - thank you
Easier and helps with light penetration nice I like it!👍🏼
I would have deducted double the thickness of the board (25mm) off the overall length of the sides and fitted without removing the top and bottom.
Good tip with marking the board though and a spot on job regardless.
Master of masters…..
That is some beautiful work. Question. Would you not pack out behind the plasterboard with some mineral wool or other insulation to maximise the thermal efficiency and prevent cold spots?
Never seen a live video before, looking forward to it
Its in 3D will blow your mind 😂
Cool shot at the end with the clouds
Great to see splayed instead of the harsh looking square fit.
Surely better air flow must help with any potential condensation too.
Velux suggests top to be horizontal and bottom reveal vertical, or close to, though not possible on very shallow or very steep roofs.
If you do the reveals square from the velux, you can fit in some insulation behind all the reveals. Without insulation the reveals are going to be a cold surface and potentially get condensation on them. Also use foil back board.
Great Video Robin all the best Tony
Gave you a shout in the live mate!!!
@@ukconstruction thanks Robin my apologies didn’t see it all on the live feed so missed it but much appreciated, Happy New Year mate
smart ...thanks for sharing
Once again another quality video from Robin. His delivery on knowledge is perfect 👌
Beautiful, I actually prefer this over square reveals, makes the window look bigger, lets more light in (cant prove that one but corners are not in the way ☺), and breaks up all that square symetry everywhere..
Thank you for sharing.
Great Job!
excellent.
But I did take a few tips from you , from building my friends timber frame extension during Covid first lockdown so thanks 👍
Pitched roof etc
be good to see your own methods of fitting velux windows robin. fitted a fair few and built a fair few roofs but ive changed a lot of how ive worked since watching your videos
Loving the fresh hair dooo
Robin Clevah!
Great video but wondered why when you got the angle marked onto the offcut, why did you not just transfer the angle onto the 2 pieves you hadnt put up yet? Instead of taking down the pieces you already put up? That would also remove the need to cut around the timbers.
A splayed edge is great, but how do you do this while having 52.5 mm insulated plasterboard instead of the normal 12.5mm(which you seem to have)? The point at which one attaches the screws would be too far in surely?
Hi Robin, I was wondering if you knew any comprehensive books I could purchase? I’ve always loved working with wood but having not really had the opportunity due to work and other life commitments. Having watched your videos it has solidified I want a career in carpentry and won’t stop until I’m there.
Thank you so much for this and for your content!
Hi Thomas try this link, www.amazon.co.uk/shop/robinclevett?listId=31BTMYYMNG58B&ref=idea_share_inf
Amazing thank you
Do you need to put a vapour barrier and insulation in between the plasterboard and joist. I've seen both and not sure what is best
Best to allow room in reveal for celotex insulation behind plasterboard. Stop cold bridge.
Good shout, some of the 25mm backed stuff would surely make a difference.
Think you could end up losing the frame behind it by the time it’s beaded and skimmed ?
@@amateurvegan2636 you can get 20mm or 12mm thickness insulation. depending how you site the velux within rafters. Normally works out.
@@colingreen4625 cool, never really used it myself because it’s so pricey! Good idea though
Great video, what Milwaukee driver model are you using,
What’s the Millwaukee surge like Robin sounds so much quieter than normal impact. Great video as always.
I just use a tape for depth,,do longest opposites first, then just use a speed square to mark the angles.
Squirt of foam adhesives bind and screw and they never move
Wish I’d known this way a few years back, I’ve always battened them square or used insulation board.
Must let more light in this way too. 👍
Out of interest, which way do you think looks best?
I have some to do soon and I was thinking the extra insulation could be more beneficial than the extra light, as there should be plenty of light either way, but ultimately esthetics is key.
Cheers.
@@SimonPlatt I’m not sure, maybe Robins way looks better than square. I’d have thought an insulated reveal was a building control requirement though?
@@lukehanna3344 Agreed ...on both counts!
i cut 4x2 trims at 45 around the opening for plasterboard fixing !
Are you good at racking out vans?
Nice one, looks class, don’t suppose you would know anything about insulating between rafters ? Should I get some slate vents in the roof to ventilate above them before boarding and plastering? Reluctant to start and then the roof sweats and all the timbers rot. 120 year old house. Cheers
U should have a 2 inch gap between celotex and felt/ tile, to allow for airflow and it will dissapate into ur soffit/facia vents
@@zlock97 dont think I have soffits of fascia boards, like I said the house is 120 years old
@@liamg9846thight fit rigid insulation between the rafters, leaving a minimum 50mm air gap between the insulation and the felt. Use a good breathable roofing membrane, and dont stretch the membrane tight. The proper way to fit a breathable membrane is to let the membrane slight sag between each rafter. You could also double batten the roof for extra airflow below the slates, so a batten directly on top of rafters first, the batten as normal. Use a vapour barrier on the warm side of the insulation and also foil back plasterboard.
Interesting way of doing the reveals. I can get a sneaky 25mm of PIR in the reveals if I set it 90 to the window. I guess this can distribute the light a bit better. Hmm may give it a go.
Thats how i do it also, i think it looks better without a splay and like you say, you can get a bit of insulation behind the reveals.
Great vid Robin . Any reason why you didn’t pull the cable out ?
Must be electrically controlled velux windows mate.
Good tips Robin. What's the reason for the original exterior wall above the steel being boarded at an angle? Aesthetics? Not seen that done before, looks good👍
I think just to give a square join, can look odd if that angle is acute, and this way is easier to skim and decorate. May even had noggins to suit.
Much easier to plaster aswell and trowel fits behind the hands easier aswell 👌👍
7:00 is there and worry about condensation in the void behind the plasterboard?
I was just wondering about the lack of vapour barrier too..
Yeh he should have cut insulation boards and fitted vapour barrier all taped , big mistake
Hi Robin, Are all the angles the plumb cut degree of that specific roof? And the opening is built bigger to suit?
Just wondering, in the UK don't you insulate and carry the vapour barrier around into the revels.?
I do, but going on the reply’s I got from my questions I must be the only one, I insulate and terminate vcl to the window
Yes, we are supposed to.
Just built a similar roof myself and the building inspector has had me put 100mm kingspan in between the rafters then 50mm kingspan over the rafters to stop heat transfer. It doesn’t look like you’ve had to do the same. Is there a reason for this or have I just got a jobsworth inspector. Good tip with the plasterboard.
It might be insulated on the outside.
Why are you cutting the top and bottom? Just fit the sides in and tape it. Boom done.
Less Draft comes through like this
i agree
@@jjamo5 After a coat of compound and tape, and two coats of compound after that? Nonsense.
Its easier to fully board and skim - no-one likes all that sanding and dust.
Plaster skim is easier, quicker and cheaper.
As I’ve seen below bottom should be plumb top should be level, ruffly 30%more light than having them square I think velux say
Robin, would you add a steel angle to those reveals too? Thanks
Very nice Robin. Is that the same house where u did that beautiful deck? It seems to b where u hang your hat, your house. Also, those humongous front doors. And the swimming pool?
Hi Bill, this is a different place!! but the deck doors and pool was at my place
Robin, surely if you had deducted 25mm from the length of the top and bottom pieces [2x12.5mm, assume], that would negate the second part of cutting them to length.
The sides fitted, then the top and bottom would be the right size to fit.
Or, install the sides first, then measure lengths of top and bottom.
Nope, because they are compound angles. The sides and top/bottom splay outwards from the window to the bottom of the rafters.
Platerboard comes commonly in half inch and 3/8 yhickness why make things awkward by convertimg them to mm
@@saltychannel21 - Because this is not the US! As you may not have noticed, Robin is using the far easier way to take measurements - in metric. The boards are 9mm and 12.5mm in Europe and most other places!
@@Herpitor - well, yes, I didn't think the sides were splayed, but if they are, you're right, can't be done that way. How silly of me!
@@thetessellater9163 im in the uk and have been a joiner/ builder for the last 25 years. I generally use inches as its usually easier to remember measurements when your not trying to remember numbers in the thousands. I sometimes use metric if its nearest to a round number but generally use inches as its more simple to remember measurements usually. Sometimes i use a mixture haha so it might be 87 inches and about 5mm. The only time i use metric is when fitting kitchen's as everything comes in metric sizes so its the only time when metric is the simplest option and even then i still revert back to imperial when cutting fillers and worktops. People i work with find it hilarious when i give them mixed measurements
This can look quite good, give the client the option but normally get asked to batten out and do square reveals. Matter of preference
They say it lets more light in. Who knows . Like you say each to their own
@@arselickerfc9316 possibly yeah,minimal. If the window hasn't been fitted perfectly even gaps all the way round then the angles can look odd and wonky. If I've fitted the window myself I know it'll be right but more often than not it's a roofer who'll drop them in and not quite take so much care.
@@arselickerfc9316 your correct velux recommend you I it as Robin shown for that exact reason
If they’re done like robin has on an angle then you let more light into the room
I struggle with angles so that would've took me all week 😂
Hi Robin how much larger than velux window do you make your structural opening to achieve this nice finish ?
Robin, I was wondering what is your favourite battery powered circular saw. seen you use so many types.
Probably the one with the most battery power at the time of the job 😉
Different ones fit different jobs more specifically, I think.
I own a ts55 but am looking into buying a battery powered circular saw. Just seen Robin use so many brands, wanted to know what saw he preferce.
I like the way you took all the measurements to start.. that can't be right surely if you fit top and bottom board first that side piece ain't fitting it needs re-measuring as the gap will surely be smaller
I took the overall length measurements to enable me to cut all the material in one go, the next step was to mark cut and fix the boards in situ and this makes it real easy, hope that helps mate
@@ukconstruction cheers thank you appreciate the reply and yes I see what you mean
Great video. Is there a reason that square 90 degree reveals aren’t used though?
Let’s more light in
@@ozzyefc44 Interesting - hadn't thought of that!
@@CarFinanceSimplified it’s surprising how even a few degrees of an angle the amount of extra light you’ll get in a room
Great job as always but expensive looking 2M deep extension!
I am pedantic with my roof window reveals, only perfect will do even if that means battening out on dimishing packers. Keen eyes will spot a wonky reveal from a mile away.
True that!
Especially when to you have a row of windows, they MUST match.
brilliant! how great was that!...
It's definitely boarded. Much easier marking square top and bottom boarding past cut to square use waste to pack out then dab in nice square reveals
Hi.
No insulation required between board and rafter?
Looks a neat job , but really you should put at least an inch of kingspan on the face of the timber to go up t side of the velux frame , then board
When’s your hinge jig out mate?
Why were there no joist hangers around the trimmers?
Cheers