This was a great video... thank you. Back during COVID we blocked off an old hallway with a big plastic shelving unit from HD to put things we bought in bulk. 2 Years later and we are now just going to put up CM shelves and turn into into a full walk-in pantry. Seeing this definitely filled in some gaps on what I needed to do here. Again, thank you!
They put the holes in the hang track at 16 inch intervals for a reason- to hit studs. I do agree with using more than 1 screw per standard. Also, Closet Maid recommends #12 pan head screws. It’s on each of the products where the upc label is.
Hey man I was going to pay someone to come install my closet systems because I didn’t dare after drilling a few big holes for the toggles, so then I came across your video and your explanation was so great so you gave me the confidence to do it and I’ve done five closets now and got a few more to go, so thank you!
Mike's Likes hi there so I came across a bowed wall, do you have tips on how to place the top hanger track. The ends lay flat on both ends but as you get closer to the middle there seems to be a small gap between the wall and the track. I would say the gap is about 2 cm. It’s really small. I wasn’t sure if I should try to put a thin piece of something? Or just try to screw it in hoping the track will pull the wall forward. The closet width is 36 inches. Many thanks!
I would say you have a few options. The first and easiest would be to just screw it into the wall and see what happens. 2cm is a small gap and the metal would most likely just bend and follow the wall. The problem you may run into is if it bends to much the rest of the hardware wouldn't fit and line up correctly. Another option would be to use joint compound to make the wall flat. I wouldn't try to shim it because you will more then likely have problems trying to line up the rest of the hardware. I would try screwing it down first, just start in the middle. Let me know how it worked out.
Thanks for your comment! I went ahead and screwed it in and it worked! ⚡️⚡️ you da man. I got the laundry room and the finale... the pantry! Thanks again!
Thank you for the step by step. I'm preparing to do some DIY ideas for better organization and really was just looking for something real and straight to the point...which you did. So, I'm now subscribed so the next time I need something, I'll just come right back to your channel. I appreciate that you let your viewers know how to install this even without a stud finder (I'd bought a manual little magnet finder type that the hardware store guy recommended and needless to say I'm not a fan) and to just use screws. You made it look simple enough which is just what I needed.
The holes in the first/long support piece you put up look fairly close together - there are a lot of them which I presume makes the rack stronger. I am looking to use this to hang clothes all the way across and desperatly need to know the weight capacity, which I can't find anywhere.
Previously found the ClosetMaid instructional video but you added extra details that are very helpful. Thank you! I can already tell that this will save me some time and frustration.
Hi there, while prepping for my last closet, I ended up with one that seems to have two ducts next to each other in the middle of the 55 inch wall. I only found out because I drilled small holes like you said and saw metal on the other end, so I checked on the attic and saw the ducts. Should I just abort the project all together? Have you encountered that in the past? Thanks!
Sorry to hear that. You could just move where you are drilling so it is next to your duct. Unfortunately you probably should remove some drywall and repair the holes in the ducts. What are the ducts for AC or is it a vent pipe?
If you go to Lowe's, this is not the FastTrack system they sell, unless in the past 7 months they changed the very top support bar and the look of all of the shelf bars. There is the Rubbermaid FastTrack system and the Rubbermaid HomeFree system for the closets. I'm still working out the major differences in the two since they look so similar.
Hey Mike I have 4 standards for two 24 inch hanger brackets since my closet is 53in wide. I got 3 standards into the studs. The 3rd one I used the 75lbs easy screw in wall anchors. The screws weren't long enough going through the standards and I had to pull out the anchors. U know what size toggle would fit in a hole that big?
These toggles require a 1/2 hole in the drywall but the you may have to drill out a larger hole in the standards to get the bolt to fit. Also you could always just buy a longer screw for the anchors that you already have. www.lowes.com/pd/TOGGLER-10-Pack-Assorted-Length-x-1-4-in-Dia-Toggle-Bolt-Drywall-Anchor-Screws-Included/3183831
Couldn't you just mount the hang track on the top plate at the top of the closet? That way, you wouldn't need to use any toggle bolts. Just drill screws. The top plate would hold most of the weight of the shelves and you would use toggle bolts on the standards unless they are over studs, then you would just use screws.
I've used this system twice before in my house. My son's closet shelving collapsed and I have to do it again. Now, however, I can't find the top bar (shelf track hang track) in the length that I need. His closet measures 66-7/8" wide. I can only find the 40" and 80" at Home Depot (where I've bought the longer than 40" ones before). I've heard that you can use a hacksaw to cut the bar, but not sure what type of blade to use. My question is this: is the shelf track hang track even necessary once you've found studs? Thanks for a great video!
Hi Mike, do I really need the horizontal rail? I have a shelf like the one you unmounted (which o want to keep) and was just hoping to install upright fasttracks (without the horizontal rail) to add an additional shelf
I just bought one of these systems for my closet and hung it up using toggle bolts in dry wall. I’m nervous because I didn’t drill into any studs. Should I be worried about it falling off the wall?
If there is space between the drywall and cement you could just use toggle bolts but you would need to use a lot of them to make sure it will hold. If the cement is right up against the drywall you would have to use Tapcons or some other kind of concrete anchor. When drilling into concrete you will need a hammer dill. Just be careful and make sure there is no electrical or plumbing where you are drilling.
@@MikesLikes thanks for the video! I’m not a handy man, and wanted to ask how you added additional holes along the pre-drilled holes of the main top bracket. Thanks
Great video instructions. The instructions(?) that came glued to the product were too tiny to read without a magnifying glass. They were not complete enough to actually be helpful.
I don't get the point of the "fastvtrack" at the top. I just screwed the top into the wall. A lot less screws that way. And again can't see the point of the track when your screwing down the bar anyway.
The proper height is whatever you decide. Just make sure it's level. Tall people will want it higher and short people may need it to be not as high up.
This was a great video... thank you. Back during COVID we blocked off an old hallway with a big plastic shelving unit from HD to put things we bought in bulk. 2 Years later and we are now just going to put up CM shelves and turn into into a full walk-in pantry. Seeing this definitely filled in some gaps on what I needed to do here. Again, thank you!
They put the holes in the hang track at 16 inch intervals for a reason- to hit studs. I do agree with using more than 1 screw per standard. Also, Closet Maid recommends #12 pan head screws. It’s on each of the products where the upc label is.
I have seen you could put holes in the hang track where the studs are along with the other screws with toggles
Hey man I was going to pay someone to come install my closet systems because I didn’t dare after drilling a few big holes for the toggles, so then I came across your video and your explanation was so great so you gave me the confidence to do it and I’ve done five closets now and got a few more to go, so thank you!
Glad I could help.
Mike's Likes hi there so I came across a bowed wall, do you have tips on how to place the top hanger track. The ends lay flat on both ends but as you get closer to the middle there seems to be a small gap between the wall and the track. I would say the gap is about 2 cm. It’s really small. I wasn’t sure if I should try to put a thin piece of something? Or just try to screw it in hoping the track will pull the wall forward. The closet width is 36 inches. Many thanks!
I would say you have a few options. The first and easiest would be to just screw it into the wall and see what happens. 2cm is a small gap and the metal would most likely just bend and follow the wall. The problem you may run into is if it bends to much the rest of the hardware wouldn't fit and line up correctly. Another option would be to use joint compound to make the wall flat. I wouldn't try to shim it because you will more then likely have problems trying to line up the rest of the hardware. I would try screwing it down first, just start in the middle. Let me know how it worked out.
Thanks for your comment! I went ahead and screwed it in and it worked! ⚡️⚡️ you da man. I got the laundry room and the finale... the pantry! Thanks again!
Way more informative than the other videos I watch. Thanks man
Thank you for the step by step. I'm preparing to do some DIY ideas for better organization and really was just looking for something real and straight to the point...which you did. So, I'm now subscribed so the next time I need something, I'll just come right back to your channel. I appreciate that you let your viewers know how to install this even without a stud finder (I'd bought a manual little magnet finder type that the hardware store guy recommended and needless to say I'm not a fan) and to just use screws. You made it look simple enough which is just what I needed.
Great video and help for a not so handy man. Well done Mike.
Thank you ! I knew how to use the old style brackets, but couldn't figure out how to use these new ones. Now I know !
Best explanation on the internet. Thank you.
What size screws did you use for the studs?
Can I re-use the same wired shelves from my original closet or I need to buy different ones to fit this rail system?
Yes
The holes in the first/long support piece you put up look fairly close together - there are a lot of them which I presume makes the rack stronger. I am looking to use this to hang clothes all the way across and desperatly need to know the weight capacity, which I can't find anywhere.
Where did you purchase the racks
This is a great video!!!! You should do more videos 🙏🏻
Thanks! I have been making a lot of Funko Pop videos lately but I do plan on making more DIY videos in the future.
Previously found the ClosetMaid instructional video but you added extra details that are very helpful. Thank you! I can already tell that this will save me some time and frustration.
I'm happy that it helped!
Live in Florida and have metal studs, recommendations as to what to use?
I would use toggle bolts in the drywall.
Kayla Kenny they make special screws for metal studs you can buy them at Home Depot
What size and type screw did you use to bolt the tracks to the wall?
The link for the screws for the studs is not working. Can you reenter the link? Thanks
Great video my friend
Well done 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi there, while prepping for my last closet, I ended up with one that seems to have two ducts next to each other in the middle of the 55 inch wall. I only found out because I drilled small holes like you said and saw metal on the other end, so I checked on the attic and saw the ducts. Should I just abort the project all together? Have you encountered that in the past? Thanks!
Sorry to hear that. You could just move where you are drilling so it is next to your duct. Unfortunately you probably should remove some drywall and repair the holes in the ducts. What are the ducts for AC or is it a vent pipe?
Why didn’t you use a stud for some of the holes
On the top bar
If you go to Lowe's, this is not the FastTrack system they sell, unless in the past 7 months they changed the very top support bar and the look of all of the shelf bars. There is the Rubbermaid FastTrack system and the Rubbermaid HomeFree system for the closets. I'm still working out the major differences in the two since they look so similar.
This is the ClosetMaid ShelfTrack system that I am installing.
What a great video!!!! Thank you for sharing!
You're welcome!
normally how much does each bar cost?and the length standard when buying it?
Was size closet organizer was this?
This was not one of the kits I bought all the pieces individually.
Honest my friend. Thank you aoo much for posting this!!
I'm glad you liked it!
Nice tips
Hey Mike I have 4 standards for two 24 inch hanger brackets since my closet is 53in wide. I got 3 standards into the studs. The 3rd one I used the 75lbs easy screw in wall anchors. The screws weren't long enough going through the standards and I had to pull out the anchors. U know what size toggle would fit in a hole that big?
These toggles require a 1/2 hole in the drywall but the you may have to drill out a larger hole in the standards to get the bolt to fit. Also you could always just buy a longer screw for the anchors that you already have.
www.lowes.com/pd/TOGGLER-10-Pack-Assorted-Length-x-1-4-in-Dia-Toggle-Bolt-Drywall-Anchor-Screws-Included/3183831
Cool. That is a great help. Thank you!
This video is super helpful
Very nice video, thank you.
Is this concrete wall?
No, it is wood studs and drywall.
Thanks for the upload now I just need to find a handy man
Couldn't you just mount the hang track on the top plate at the top of the closet? That way, you wouldn't need to use any toggle bolts. Just drill screws. The top plate would hold most of the weight of the shelves and you would use toggle bolts on the standards unless they are over studs, then you would just use screws.
I suggest getting a stud finder (blonde or brunette) and mount to the studs rather than sheetrock if you can help it
Absolutely, I would always recommend mounting to the studs if you can. Unfortunately it almost always seems the studs are not where you need them.
Great video Mike , thanks. Don't forget to give your Barber a nice tip. That's a good looking haircut.
Thanks!
Dude, thank you. The struggle was real until your video.
Glad I could help.
I've used this system twice before in my house. My son's closet shelving collapsed and I have to do it again. Now, however, I can't find the top bar (shelf track hang track) in the length that I need. His closet measures 66-7/8" wide. I can only find the 40" and 80" at Home Depot (where I've bought the longer than 40" ones before). I've heard that you can use a hacksaw to cut the bar, but not sure what type of blade to use. My question is this: is the shelf track hang track even necessary once you've found studs? Thanks for a great video!
Hi Mike, do I really need the horizontal rail? I have a shelf like the one you unmounted (which o want to keep) and was just hoping to install upright fasttracks (without the horizontal rail) to add an additional shelf
Ty!
Thank you!
You are welcome!
Do I need the top bracket across ??
Hi Mike!Do you have a list of names and brands of all the products that you used in this video?
Check out the video description I just added links to everything I used in this video.
Thank you so much! great video by the way!
I just bought one of these systems for my closet and hung it up using toggle bolts in dry wall. I’m nervous because I didn’t drill into any studs. Should I be worried about it falling off the wall?
If you put a large toggle in every hole it should be fine. I have one closet in my house that I only used toggle bolts and its still holding strong.
Wow, great video ! Subscribed!
I tried installing but came across that behind the drywall there is a cement stud. What do I do in this case Help!
If there is space between the drywall and cement you could just use toggle bolts but you would need to use a lot of them to make sure it will hold. If the cement is right up against the drywall you would have to use Tapcons or some other kind of concrete anchor. When drilling into concrete you will need a hammer dill. Just be careful and make sure there is no electrical or plumbing where you are drilling.
Thanks I was just thinking that but was not sure if I can. I will try again thanks for the reply.
How do you remove the shelves? I want to move the shelves up, but now they are clicked in and I can't seem to remove them.
Me too and it's driving me nuts I can't find anyone explain how to take it apart!
How far do you space the standards?
24" is the max recommended spacing. I think I did mine around 20".
Thanks!
How about mentioning the distance between standards? Looks like 16 inch centers.
ClosetMaid recommends a max distance of 24 inches. I believe I did them about 18 inches apart in the video.
@@MikesLikes thanks for the video! I’m not a handy man, and wanted to ask how you added additional holes along the pre-drilled holes of the main top bracket. Thanks
Why not use stud ?
What?? 2:39 All I could see were hands!!!!
Great video instructions. The instructions(?) that came glued to the product were too tiny to read without a magnifying glass. They were not complete enough to actually be helpful.
I don't get the point of the "fastvtrack" at the top. I just screwed the top into the wall. A lot less screws that way. And again can't see the point of the track when your screwing down the bar anyway.
The more screws the more sturdy it will be and the more weight it can hold.
Didn't know Jonah Hill did DIY videos...
Well if Vanilla Ice is doing it...
Does not explain proper height for track.
The proper height is whatever you decide. Just make sure it's level. Tall people will want it higher and short people may need it to be not as high up.
Stop swaying back and forth you are making me sea sick ! ,
Sorry you feel that way but it is kind of too late for that now.
How do you remove the shelves? I want to move the shelves up, but now they are clicked in and I can't seem to remove them.
You have to push it back towards the wall then you lift the back and slide it forward.