Volvo S60 and V70 Heater Core Replacement. How To Get It Done Fast!
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- Опубліковано 2 сер 2024
- Ah yes, the P2 Volvo. A never ending list of issues with these cars, but I'll save that for another video. Today, I'll show how to replace a leaking Heater core without pulling the pedals out, and without removing the steering column.
As a Volvo Tech, I had to learn these short cuts to beat able to beat flat rate. let me share these with you in this hard to film video. - Авто та транспорт
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Hey Eric, I know you’re sick of the P2 Volvo but I really appreciate these videos when you share your experiences and knowledge about these cars. All the best from Sweden!
I appreciate that!
I used a high power blower under the hood to blow all the coolant out of the heater core once the heater core lines were disconnected. Just blew it in one pipe and it all came out the other pipe. Worked like a charm. When I disconnected the heater core from the heater core pipes under the dash, it was empty. No mess.
That is a great tip- quick and easy-
Huge thanks for sharing this video Eric. Looking at you gave me enough courageous to start this job myself instead of paying serious money to get it fixed. Keep up your amazing video’s.
You can do it! It's a pain, but totally doable.
Great video, thanks. I changed my heater core on my RHD 2006 S60. Very similar, but go in from the passenger side, removing glovebox. I had to cut away a hidden piece of dash, and a bit of the white plastic housing behind the glovebox. Easy to make good after. That was four years ago, and the O rings are now leaking a bit, so I watched this to familiarise myself with it all!
That's interesting. I usually figure that the engineers made these jobs easy for RHD cars since they are from those areas. Good to know that they are hard no matter where they are sold!
Perfect, will save me a ton of trouble. My S60 has started to leak there, now i know how to fix it without any headaches! Thanks a lot!
Great to hear!
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs These new o-rings are a b*tch to get seated! 🥵
Found out that you need to push them in first, then fiddle the o-ring over the edge while gently pushing! 1down, one to go! 😂
Wonderful style and content. Keeping it real (ly great!) Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Nice video.
Certainly it will help me to repair my Volvo. I had a coolent level reduction like 6 months ago, I completed it and everything was fine. Until this Sunday when I felt the carpets being wet! Removed the carpet, drove for a half a day and was no leak detectable on the console or anywhere. Its true that I havent used the heating in the car.
Found this video and I will check tomorrow in details by removing the covers.
Good luck! Take your time and stretch before you start under the dash. It's a tight fit.
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs Thank a lot!
I just removed the covers and it seems that the core is OK (dry everywhere). It's liking at the joints level. Its not really leaking, it's like one drop accumulates every 10 minutes on the upper aluminum pin.
It seems to be easier to repair but still can't avoid the dirty part of the job.
BTW, shared the video with Volvo friends and 👍👍👍
Thanks for the video. Easy fix is always the way to go.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent! Thank you so much! Going to give it a try this weekend.
keep me posted. I am gearing up for one bow also
Good luck!!
I helped a buddy change the heater cord in a 1979 TRANS AM. What a chore.
They can be a chore to do- that is why, as a mechanic, I found ways of making the job easier.
Great job! Thanks for this video.
Glad you liked it!
thanks a lot. This is premium service
You are welcome, if you are handy this can help save a ton of money
This will be hard for most folks to believe, but that coolant is really all you need for any vehicle. In many cases, it's superior to the OEM formulation, including Volvo's OEM coolant because Volvo coolant contains silicates that destroy the water pump bearing. Any house brand extended life universal coolant will work, but Napa 1EXT and RTU1EXT are the best values when on sale (which is quite frequently).
Agreed. Since the 2000's nearly all coolant is good coolant!
Great video 👍
Glad I could help-!
Usually Volvo v70 is easy car to work on but this was hardest thing I have done
This job can be a pain in the rear.
In many cases you need to remove orings and if its still leaking you may remove heater. I guess ist chipper. Greatings and sorry for my language.
You can certainly try that. When I worked for Volvo, they wanted the whole thing replaced.
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs 8 years ago I did it and it was enough. Now I have the same problem, so I'm gona change orings and I'll see. By the way, you"re doing a good job. Like it!
I'd like to add, it bends the fins pretty badly clearing a part of the steering column. They look like they are held on by a couple t-40's. May prevent too much bending on the fins putting the new one in. Also, FCP euro for o-rings and clips if yours didn't come with them. The Behr/Mahle heater core didn't come with any, and those o-rings looked specific versus the ones that came out. Just my 2 cents! thanks!
You just have to be very careful when messing with the column. Air bags are not cheap when they pop!
It was my understanding that before you disconnected anything, the heater was supposed to be set to the maximum and the blower was to be turned on full blast. The goal? This was so that the heater ventilation door armatures would move out of the way, thus obtaining more room to remove those clips.
Seems like a good idea, but I've never had anything blocking access on these. Maybe for right hand drive models?
How did you get that brake switch clip out?? Already broke something close to it and it won’t come out and don’t really explain where the clips are or from need help asap
Pry to one side, it will make 1 free, then you can do the other side. It can be a pain to do
Great video. I’m about to do this as my heater core has been flushed twice. Thanks for the help. Can you give any advice on how to fix a faulty blender door or actuator? My defroster setting doesn’t work-no air! I can’t find anything online….any help would be appreciated! Thanks again!
It's been a while since I had to go in there to replace blend doors. As I recall, two of them are pretty easy to replace. Unbolt the tiny black box being careful not to break the plastic arm that connects to the blend door, and then reverse. The others? Well.... You have to remove the entire dashboard and in some cases the entire heater/AC box to get to them.
Let's hope it's the easy ones!
you this also be the same configuration and process for the s60 2001 sedan ? under my drivers side floor carpet it is GLOWING green! .. and leak is half way down the car underside.. on drivers side!.. grommets? and heater core?
Yes, this is the exact same job on the S-60 and very close to the same on the S80. Good luck!
about those clips it realy matters,specely the one on top because wenn you put those in oterwise it wil block those heater valve arms.find out my self !!
Bummer! I never noticed how close it is to the flap motor. I guess it could happen.
Hi there, could this part be the reason for the weak heating of the vehicle? I don't have a fluid leak here, but the car only warms poorly inside. I have the main cooler/radiator replaced by the service. Unfortunately, the car still heats poorly. Operating temperature at 90 celsius as it should be. Thanks in advance for the advice
Certainly. A clogged or partially clogged heater core will cut off most of the heat to the cabin.
I’ve got a question….should you flush the entire system prior to replacing the heater core? Appreciate your input. My new heater core says a flush is required before install or warranty will be voided. I don’t want to do it twice 😂
If it hasn't been done in years, it's not a bad Idea, but these are aluminum engines, they don't rust. usually the coolant comes out as clean as the day it was installed.
Does these heater are known to broke as on the 850's?
They tend to go bad more often, but they are easier to replace.
Mine is leaking on the passenger side 2007 s60, then its anti freeze mix with oil. Any pointers?
Should be the same issue. Coolant feels slick like oil. My bet is that its just coolant.
$18 bucks for the Heater core? You must have got that on line. Anyway FANTASTIC VIDEO!!!..
I replaced the H.C. in my 01 S80...but having a REAL problem putting the clips back in. I tried bending them back to as close as possible to the way they came out, but no luck. Any advice you can give? The lines are well seated in the H.C....the clips just will not pass all the way thru. By the way what are those thin silver legs with black boots on them. I accidentally pulled the right side out...seems like it has a hole at the end where I can just slip it back over a peg or something... but it is in a blind spot. Would appreciate your expertise. 🤔
It's a dance for sure. Most of the time it's the o-rings not being seated right. Pull the metal tube out slightly and roll the o-ring into the base, then shove the tubes back in.
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs Thank you sir... Got the retainer clips in, reconnected the brake switch, put the blue freeze in, there are no leaks, AND we're back on the road. 👍🏽
The flat mechanical arm to the left of the core snapped because the core got him up on it. What is this piece?
That is a blend door actuator arm. You don't want to break those!
Yup. Hindsight is 20/20. I have a new arm. Based on your experience do you happen to know how I remove the blend door arm to replace it. Since it is no longer attached to the actuator do I just pry out the two pins and then align and snap the new one in to place? I would then connect the front arm to actuator being mindful of settings? Thanks for your help. @@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs
Can this work with the 2007 s40 T5
Yes, It's similar, but there are some minor changes.
I've spent 4 hours attempting to get the top pin back in. Impossible. How did you do it?
For anyone in the future who watches this, the part where he just skipped forward and it was night time and all of a sudden those little pins were in... Yeah that's the hardest part of the job. Search for peppermint Volvo S60 heater core replacement, he goes into much more detail and shows the entire procedure for how to get those pins to set. The trick is is you need to tap on the 90° bend on those aluminum pipes with a hammer. You need to hit it until you can no longer see the o ring. Don't smash it too hard or it will indent the 90 (ask me how I know). Use a small block of wood if you're starting to damage the pipe.
Time. The reason it skips forward is that the tiny camera kept falling from it's perch.
I would NOT do that!! The reason it's so hard to seat has nothing to do with the pipe, it's all about that O-ring. Sometimes you can roll the O-ring forward a bit before inserting the pipe to help ensure that it seated right. Bending the pipe is a huge no-no.
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs for sure man. I know you do in depth videos like your fuel pump one. Just wished I would have known to tap the new o ring in to seat it 😂 not your fault the camera was acting up, and thank you for providing us this info for free, it's much appreciated
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs oh ok, got it. I tried adjusting it's position and even put a little silicon on the sides, nothing seemed to help. The flares on my pipes were already mangled so that could have been the reason it was a lot harder too
Oh man, all i wanted was to see how to get those dam clips in...ive tried almost everything and im getting very frustrated
Those clips are a PAIN- I have done many of these replacements and the clips are a pain
skipping the part about how to pull the electrical cord out rite an not un screwing the one bolt to move the steering wheel up is crazy those are definitely the most important parts when your trying to get it in or out 🤦🏾♂️
I didn't unscrew any bolts on the steering column to remove the heater core. I'd also say that if you don't know how to unplug a simple electrical connector, perhaps this job is not something you should try to do on your own.
EDIT: content creator does not advise the following. I got frustrated and used a hammer after splitting two pins trying to get them in without one. As of one test drive, they are not leaking even though the bottom pipe is mangled and it's o ring is held in place by two halves of a broken pin.
For anyone in the future who watches this, the part where he just skipped forward and it was night time and all of a sudden those little pins were in... Yeah that's the hardest part of the job. Search for peppermint Volvo S60 heater core replacement, he goes into much more detail and shows the entire procedure for how to get those pins to set. The trick is is you need to tap on the 90° bend on those aluminum pipes with a hammer. You need to hit it until you can no longer see the o ring. Don't smash it too hard or it will indent the 90 (ask me how I know). Use a small block of wood if you're starting to damage the pipe.
Please do not bend the pipe, or use a hammer for any of this job!
@@FarpointRestorationsAndRepairs fair statement if you know that can cause problems. I couldn't do it any other way on mine. Will have to see if mine needs new pipes now after driving and will update the comment
Update. After one day it's no longer leaking and I admittedly hammered it way more than I should have out of frustration, after splitting 2 pins attempting to set them without hammering. One in tact pin is installed and two halves of a broken one are installed on the bottom pipe. Content creator does not advise and I would agree, I may have gotten lucky... Will update if it leaks