How to: Repair/Replace Rusty Floor in Vehicle - Complete Guide, Start to Finish
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2025
- Products Used:
Wire Wheel: amzn.to/3lG8z6V
Corded Drill: amzn.to/3JDQvCs
Spot Weld Drill Bit: amzn.to/3TBy8CT
Bench Vise: amzn.to/42upl9T
4.5” Grinder: amzn.to/3nhGS53
Cutoff tool: amzn.to/42DINRF
Locking c clamp vise grip: amzn.to/3K1R9ej
Aviation Snips: amzn.to/3LMe3b6
Scraper: amzn.to/3JGFhwV
Gasket Scraper Set: amzn.to/40Ey4nU
Ball peen hammer: amzn.to/40evZzA
Chisels: amzn.to/3yZHCy2
Switchable On/Off magnet: amzn.to/3X45sD1
Weld thru coating: amzn.to/40xiw5I
Duplicolor Prep Spray: amzn.to/3K2wEhL
DupliColor Self-Etching Primer: amzn.to/3lku7mH
Dynatron seam sealer: amzn.to/3TBzoG7
welding blanket: amzn.to/42M0lLs
Lincoln 110v Mig Welder: amzn.to/3LKFORe
Auto Darkening Welding Helmet (recommended): amzn.to/3nleH4U
Plasma Cutter : s.vevor.com/bf...
Fluid Film aerosol cans: amzn.to/3e1Sh1X
(The above are affiliate links- I may receive a small compensation if you make a purchase. Thanks for supporting the channel!)
Floor Pans made in USA (As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
79-83 L+R sides (exact ones I used): ebay.us/3FK9jX
79-83 L Side: ebay.us/hQTch6
79-83 R side: ebay.us/xE5ADP
84-88 L+R sides: ebay.us/rCo1rQ
Floor Pans (made in Thailand):
72-78 L Side w/ mount bracket: ebay.us/B0Gf4A
72-78 R Side w/ mount bracket: ebay.us/BYlatQ
72-78 L Side: ebay.us/lA5WeZ
72-78 R Side: ebay.us/pLky2N
72-78 Full length L+R sides: ebay.us/f69NFj
72-78 Full length L Side: ebay.us/UT8uBI
72-78 Full length R Side: ebay.us/TaQo9I
79-83 L+R sides w/ mount brackets: ebay.us/Oho88U
79-83 L Side w/ mount bracket: ebay.us/AbPsi0
79-83 R side w/ mont bracket: ebay.us/QwW7uJ
84-88 L+R sides w/ mount brackets: ebay.us/PcKCxV
84-88 L Side w/ mount bracket: ebay.us/UqoXYM
84-88 R Side w/ mount bracket: ebay.us/FuEWp2
84-88 Full length L+R sides: ebay.us/hNww5I
84-88 Full length L Side: ebay.us/ax3N1X
84-88 Full length R Side: ebay.us/jSYptl
89-95 L Side: ebay.us/PJqloU
89-95 R Side: ebay.us/1S8RGG
89-95 Full Length L+R Sides: ebay.us/rbumNp
Cutting out the rusty floor in a vehicle and welding in a replacement floor pan or custom cut sheet metal is a long and tedious job. I documented the process from start to finish to offer a complete guide. My vehicle is a very rusty 1980 Toyota pickup, so the rust holes also went up the inside walls of the cab. I used a reproduction floor pan, but also had to fabricate a lot of additional pieces from sheet metal because the floor pans do not cover all of the areas affected by rust.
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Instagram: 6th_gear
6thGearGarage
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I know this is a year old by now, but WOW what a JOB! I can't imagine doing all that work; some people would say it's not worth it but I commend you for tackling it! Very informative and fascinating video. I just recently decided to get into cars so stuff like this is very appreciated! So from one Ohioan to another, thank you!
In my younger days I would have parted this truck out and scrapped the body & frame. I finally decided to take on a true challenge and although it's been a year already, it should be on the road by summer! Thanks for watching!
Makes me question my sanity, got an Opel Kadett which has similar or even bigger wholes on the driver and passanger side with doors rusted from the bottom up 🥲
I am 62 and always wanted to restore an old car. A few months ago. a friend gave me a 1940 Plymouth Sedan. I'm going for it and your videos are going to get me there. Thank you.
Here is a tip for easy sound deadening removal. Get a bunch of dry ice, pack it on top of the sound deadening. Once it's cold remove the ice and tap it with a hammer and it will shatter and pop right off.
Beat me to it!
That's if you can get your hands on dry ice.
(As in buy it)
@@madcat4563 dry ice is dirt cheap and found in most grocery stores
Warning: if anyone tries this method use proper gloves and avoid touching the dry ice. You can get burns on your hands.
@@lupulflamand5673right.. because the rest of the floor repair can be done without gloves?
The classical music is awesome, a very nice touch. Excellent video
you took what seemed like an impossible task and nailed it, mate your a legend and an education thanks
Wow man. I thought my truck was a goner but seeing you do this really gave me the motivation to get at it. Gave alot of good advice too when it comes cutting out rusted sheet metal. Can't thank you enough
I really like your choice of music. I'm trying to motivate myself to do the floor pans on my Ford Super Duty.
Getting started is honestly the hardest part because it seems overwhelming. Once I got to cutting I was motivated to keep going. Then once you get to the cardboard template phase and see it all starting to come together, you're on the home stretch.
Hello 6th Gear! I especially like that you took the time to talk about the value of one tool over another, like the aviation snips versus the tin snips for cutting the sheet metal. Sharing your knowledge here is very much appreciated. I am a very amateur sheet metal welder, (MIG), myself and seeing you weld your sheet metal without too, too many "blow-throughs" was encouraging. I have a 40 year old Volvo "Brick" to do some rusty floor repair on, and your video has really inspired me to have at it! And like you indicated, after you clean up the welds, use the seam sealer over the etch-primer in order to seal up any pinholes from moisture creeping in from the other side. And by the way, your bloopers at the end are hilarious. It was great to see your sense of humor. Keep up the GREAT work: your videos are so down-to-earth, informative, and entertaining - all rolled into one! Thank you very much!
Thanks for the comment, I really like to hear that these videos are inspiring/helping others!
Great channel! Keep up the good work. Following along since I’ve got an 82 4WD short bed that’s undergoing a restoration. Learning a lot from your videos. Thank you
this is prob the most realistic situation that most people experience in my opinion.... many other youtube channels that claim (respectfully to them with no prejudice) they are no mechanics/craftsmen etc and were not so long ago fixing cars in parking lots and yet when they show a repair, its not just seamless, but it it feels like they have done it a million times prior, ...their "fist attempt" at it fits /goes in smoothly like a glove., in short they get it right the first time around, This guy, however, shows that for every fitting of something once but the need to remove it 10 times to get something else done prior, or for example how other people just seem to minimally weld something with the least amounts of spot/tac welds, while I seem to need a million other jigsaw puzzle pieces and a gazillion welds to plug up a hole, …you get the point...anyway I speak for myself, maybe because I ain't so talented, (or suggesting for that matter this person in the video isn't) but I certainly have the same experience and can relate. Not saying that it should be so for everyone else just that for once I don't feel envious and jealous of how other people get it right the first time round or very quickly (granted I know its video editing magic...but still)
Thanks! I do my best to show how it really is when doing a job yourself, even any mistakes that I make and how I remedy them.
thanks you for putting this video together. What i like about your approach is, " you work with what you have" and don't use any fancy and expensive tools to get the job done. Well done mate!!
Thank you!
It would have been nice if we had people making replacement floor pans for old cars in my country.
Thankfully, we don't have road salt due to know snow, except on mountains.
Satisfying video to watch, the time flew by.
Awesome tips. I'm about to start the restoration of my 1993 Fox Body LX Convertible and I thought it was better to trash it, but you gave me hope. Sorry, but my car is not even close to that truck. I heard people talking Sh!÷ . Now I'm getting my baby back on the road.
Right on… If I can save this rusty turd, then you’ve got this!
I did the same thing on my Ford Mustang but didnt ever use welding... I used automotive Floor pan sealer and rivets... Great job !
Thanks! How did that floor pan sealer hold up? That sounds a lot easier than welding.
@@6thGearGarage So far so good ! A lot of the floor pans these days are not even welded but sealed... I used POR-15 undercarriage spray paint over the sealer for that extra added protection. This video was good reference... I do not own a welding machine so this was the best I could do... ua-cam.com/video/YEHmcPjbFXM/v-deo.html
I don’t feel so bad about the rust in my 1985 Ram 50! Wow what a mission to repair that! PS a sharp counter sinking drill bit is way more efficient than a step drill. Cool project.
I haven't seen a Ram 50 in ~20 years around here. They all rusted away... awesome little trucks!
You sir have the patience of Job. That alone is worth the time to watch this video. Your fabrication with basic tools is a great example of what can be done without all the conveniences of a full scale shop. Good job all around and your welding is great. As someone who has done a bit of this type of work myself your fabrication and attention to detail on such a rusty repair is very good. 👍🔨
Thank you very much!
Great video got me inspired. I am going to be doing the same thing to my 85 Chevy. Camaro driver's side floor pan is Pretty bad I was a little afraid to tackle this project myself. But aint not too but to do it rigth also I do have a Lincoln welder 140 mig that i Purchased from home depot so i am ready your video is definitely going to help me out. Great job sir
The biggest help is if you are able to buy preformed floor pans.
@6thGearGarage Thanks For the fast reply. I was able to purchase half of the side that I need I just never done this type of work before But I don't want to pay anyone either. Something I want to try to do myself After watching your video I am confident that I can do it. Also i can tell that you have Weld before because you look like this Is not your first rodeo Anyway, I do appreciate the reply Thanks again.
@@floridamanfishing1390 yes, make sure to be comfortable with your welder and familiar with the settings through practice on scrap metal first.
Thanks for the video! I'm starting work on my '84 Ramcharger this weekend, and this video was a big help.
Nice job!! Kiichiro Toyoda would be proud...Found my in the cab leak on my Ca truck. Spot weld rusted through where the water drains from the cowl under the fender, behind the hood hinge box.....would leak just sitting and filled my floor under the vinyl flooring...glad I found the water, was soaked....
Long video, but I watched it all. Great work! I have a 72 Pinto with rusty floor pans like yours. I was really thinking what I needed to do was impossible but now I'm encouraged to continue on. Thanks for motivating me. I subbed also.
Excellent how-to video! Very Informative and I like how organized it is. Videos on auto metalwork by others commonly have long boring moments as they ramble on or try to figure out what to say or do next. Not yours. I was looking for tips as I prepare to patch the floors in my '81 Trans Am. It has very small amounts of rot not nearly as bad as your truck. Very nice music choices too. Liszt, Rosini, Tchaikovsky were nice to hear. Very soothing as I go out to my garage now and try to patch as well as you. Thanks.
Thank you for the feedback! This really helps me figure out what kind of videos I will be making in the future!
This is great information! Very thorough. Thank you, and the classical music was great! Really enjoyed that part of it.
A very informative video. Thank you for explaining all the steps and the materials used.
Nicely done, fair amount of work to sort that out. Also if you havent already, id recommend you check out wire wheels for the grinder, used to use them on a drill too but theyre so much faster on a grinder
I do have one on my grinder but I used it to clean some greasy stuff in the past so I didn't want to contaminate the clean bare metal edges.
Nothing but grinder attachments for me. A die grinder with a cut off wheel or a cut off air tool helps get in tight spots. Substitute dremel if no air
70s and 80s car and trucks toyotas are amazing.
I have a daihatsu charmant 84 with 3k engine toyota is a super
Car.
The job with the truck is super,thanks.
Great work mate, go easy on yourself with those welds mate they are fine for what you are doing here mate and will last infinately longer than all that rust!
Awesome video. Learned a few more tips on how to do these type of sheet metal repaurs. Thank you so much!
Bro you’re super talented!! Great job , I’ve had several of those yotos ranging from a 78-99 can’t kill them , I do like the 2.7 over the 22r but man they’re great trucks
Your work is absolutely incredible
Thanks so much! I'm determined to save this truck from the scrap yard
Great job man!
Greetings from Montenegro 🇲🇪
Thank you!
As bad as that heap is rusted and you fix all that,you deserve an award, 😂
It's taking a lot longer than expected, but slowly getting There... I like a challenge!
Excelente trabajo... como de fábrica... te felicito. Saludos desde Argentina.
great video. watched it to prepare to do similar work on my M151 military jeep
Nice jeep, love the old M151's
I like your make-shift metal break. Thanks for the tip. Fun video, BTW.
Thanks... Glad you enjoyed it!
You definitely have given me more confidence for doing this on my 80 4wd once I get the cab done everything else should be “easier”😅
Yeah floors are a lot of work and not much fun... but I'll be happy to know they're solid.
Brings you back to the eg days huh lol. I swear I feel like I've grown up with you since the forums days lol
I learned a lot on that car
@@6thGearGarage so did I.
Great video, very motivating as always. I have a similar patch to do on the 87 4runner in my snow plow video, it’s by the body mount but only about the size of a fist
Awesome!! Great job I’m glad I live in South Georgia I don’t have to worry about all that road salt
Great instructional! Now I feel like I could do this.
Owe my god now my rusty rockers seem like a peace of cake !!!
I did these rockers in another video, at the same time as passenger floor, and it was a lot of work. But if you’re only replacing the outer skin then I agree it’s not too bad.
Nice work! I’ll be doing the same just curious if the type and gage sheet metal you used?
I don’t know the exact thickness, I’d guess 16 gauge? They were old test panels for automotive spray paint.
@@6thGearGarage not 16g maybe 20g
I think it was a job well done. I definitely enjoyed it 👍
Thank you!
Looks great you are a decent welder
Thanks 👍 decent is a compliment to me 😀
nice video man ! i did that job on many toyota since i first watch your video on the red yota and i become pretty damn good to fab my metal peices with nothing but hammer and a vice !!.. cant wait to see more about that projet
That's a beatiful work, really amazing.
Thank you very much!
The step drill bit requires a pilot hole. It’s not made to drill its own hole, but to make an existing hole bigger.
I think it’s usefully customary to create paper templates before cutting the old out, so you know what you are doing after the old shape is gone.
good idea, thanks!
if there's a Will there's a Way... Good Job
Thanks, this one was a challenge!
Done better Job than most professions do they charge 100's hr to do the same, never finish keep milking the customer till they run out money, very nice work. Better you make the patch panels look the better your work will be when finished.
Nice work. Looking good. I’m working on a 1980 Toyota truck as well. I have to do a similar repair. Can I ask what gauge the metal is you used. Thank you and keep up the good work.
The floor panels were thicker, I’d guess 14 or 16 ga. The smaller pieces I used for the rest were probably 18 ga. Thanks for watching!
Back in the day, circa 2005, I used the cover of a computer case to rebuild the floor of my 81 Datsun 720.
Great idea!! Ahhh the good old days when computer cases were still metal.
Anyone that knows how to do patchwork correctly will say that you should never just cut everything out all at once that’s rusted. It should be done in sections using the pieces you cut out as templates for your new pieces. cutting out large sections at once without making patterns for new pieces will make it difficult to replace and patch all the metal in a way that it was originally put together. It’s important to take measurements of the pieces you cut out and make card paper templates of all the pieces you remove so when the time comes to reconstruct everything, you don’t have to do any guesswork as to what size or measurements your patch pieces should be. The more you know 🌈⭐️
I understand what you’re saying, but I don’t know if I could work that way by creating templates when the metal all around it is still rusty. I like to remove all the bad and then come up with a game plan from a fresh start and rebuild it in the reverse order. Then again, I am far from a professional. I’m just a guy in my home garage with simple tools. If I ever had a high dollar project, I’d hire someone.
@@6thGearGarage I understand.. i’m just saying it’s a lot less guesswork. If you make panels based off of what you cut out instead of trying to guess that’s all my friend you’re finished product looks good unfortunately a lot of times when you don’t go off of making patterns off the pieces you cut there is an excess of metal introduced, or a deficiency of metal that’s creating pot canning, which is where the model pops in and out the manufacture had a certain amount of metal in mind that was beaded to prevent this type of thing bottom line your product looks good and it was just a suggestion to make things easier..
@@mrgreezy1 Hopefully after some more experience I'll be able to work that way. Seems like it would save a lot of time.
Thanks. Wonderful work. What is the thickness of the sheet metal you use?
Thanks! Most of what I use is 14 Gauge, but I tent to use whatever I have around, so some pieces might be 16 or 12.
I noticed this is old but a heat gun and a good scraper will take care of that sound deadening. Good content and keep grinding.
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing
Thank you!
Cool to see the Jim's pizza box. Haven't had a slice from there since I was a kid
It’s our favorite pizza!
What size sheet metal did you use ? Thanks for the video! Really good job!!
These floors were probably about 2mm thick. Some of the scrap metal that I used for fabricating the surrounding area was slightly thinner.
Man!! You must love that truck. Even if you finish, what’s it worth? Good luck man be safe.
The 2wd Toyotas aren’t worth nearly as much as the 4wd trucks, so I’m not exactly sure what it would be worth. Plus it’s not an original numbers matching truck, so that really makes me wonder what it would be worth. I’m going to keep it around and use it as a shop truck for hauling parts, lumber and 3wheeler. This has been a challenge to restore, but helped me learn what I’m capable of. 🙂
Whats your opinion on bed lining the floor? Would it help with future rust?
I've seen a lot of people do it, but it cold also trap moisture and cause rust if not completely sealed inside and out.
Awesome job on the Toyota pick-up
thank you!
Is it possible the replacement floor panel that was sent to you was meant for the passengers side and upside down? That would cause the welding tab to be up for the weld and the body bolt area would then be sunken down like the factory bolt area?
No, I ordered both left and right sides. I imagine it was a lot cheaper for them to make them the way that they did.
Very informative video! Please share with me where I can buy these replacement floorpans?
Thank you in advance
Thanks! There are links in the description.
I wonder about the seam sealer, because each time I dismantled interior parts, rust starts from under the sealer, these are almost the most rusted part of the sheet metal! I noticed similar about under coating, rust developing behind the undercoating. So both do not seem to protect very well against rust. Anything else can be put to better protect against rust? I'm currently doing a floor pan on an old car and maybe wanted to try without a seam sealer and checked its rust progress every year.
For the rust to start, there must have been bare metal exposed. Perhaps it’s starting from the outside of the panel and working it’s way in somehow? You could do finish welding and grind perfectly smooth to make one seamless piece of metal, but that takes a lot of time and skill.
@@6thGearGarage Today, I had a nice looking piece of metal with a seam sealer on the joint of two pieces. I removed it for fun, and the metal behind it was rusted! So it seems to start from the joint covered by the seam sealer. I have another old car, 1994 Honda Accord, the interior was great except on the four corners, it was perforated where there were a lot of seam sealers. I removed the sealer and patched with grey putty that has metal in it, I wanted a stronger putty. So far, no rust came back. Maybe putty seals better than seam sealer...
you are offering amazing content! hats off sir.
Thanks!
Good....JOB....I'm....impressed....👌🏻😎
Thank you!
Thanks ❤ very informative
Glad it was helpful!
Was ur cab sagging down any? I have a 97 F250 where the cab mount is detached from the floor and now the door is pinching with the front fender. Curious how would one would know where to lift the cab exactly to install new floor pan pieces to match with cab mount
This cab was not sagging, but I had a similar problem on my 1985. Here is a short video showing the repair. ua-cam.com/video/7Xkdnrsa62A/v-deo.html I would lift the cab by the other solid mounting points and support it with the door/fender in place until you can see the gaps are correct. Then repair it in that position. You may want to weld some temporary bracing in place to be sure the cab does not shift at all while you're repairing it. If it's sagging that much, it sounds like you have a lot more rot to cut out and replace than I did.
At least now the driver dont fall in the road through the rust hole 😂... joke... very well done!
Angle grinder wire wheel is the way to go and you can use phosphoric acid products after it. Muriatic acid is good for cleaning small parts and works fast.
very good job, well done
Thank you!
50:00 what you do with it? Leave like this or wield holes?
I left it like that, a few pinholes won't affect the structural integrity. Just put sealant on both sides.
Lol looks like the cab of my Ford Ranger!
And I thought only a Toyota could rust this much!
Would those floor pans fit the 4x4 83
Yes they would
I have to do the same job on my truck.
It's a lot of work but it feels good to have it completed.
Since your floor mount was rusted away gow did you find where the original hight and position for the new one you fabricated? Thanks and continued luck on your project.
I kind of just guessed and set it on top of the body mount bushing to figure out about where it should be.
@@6thGearGarageI would be a little worried about stiffness of the body mount bracket. The original had stiffening darts that your piece didn't. There is a channel called Fitzees Fabrication, he does rust repair with simple tools, check it out. He makes ribs using a hammer and a vise plus stuff he had laying around.
Compared to what you started with your repair is good. Thanks for sharing,
@@jimw6991 I have been thinking about that as well. when I pull this cab off of the frame, I'm going to stand it up and take a closer look at that area to see if it can be reinforced.
@6thGearGarage You should be able to add a welded gusset to your bracket on each side of the body mount cushion (doughnut). You want your frame very stiff compared to the body mount to get the isolation out of the system.
I found a cup wire grinder wheel cuts right through Seam sealer effortlessly right to the metal.
I'll try that next time, thanks!
Nice work saving one from the crusher.
Thanks!
Were you using a flux core welder?
No, I used solid .023 wire with gas.
I found 1970s pirate treasure in my old mustang after removing the seats and carpet.. lotto tickets.. lighters.. and whole soft packs of cigs
感恩了解，謝謝分享！
Over a year old but I see your still veiwing comments witch is amazing, thank you! But question for y’a! I have a 2008 ford ranger has a pretty big rot whole in the floor. Wondering what main requirements of tools I need and prices? Maybe. I also understand could be different area so different price range and not same vehicle. But is it worth going out and buying some tools to do it myself or just send it off to a shop. But would it also even be worth having someone else put a floor pan in? And again I understand could be different areas (I’m from Ontario Canada) but if I don’t care about looking oem factory could I get away patching/covering hole, (hole is approximately 8 inches wide, by roughly a 1-1/2ft long) and be able to pass saftey with new video AI saftey law? Not expecting you to have answers but worth a shot to me!
If I do decide I’m doing it. Definitely will be on a budget😭😭😂😂
Hi, prices are always increasing, but I have links to the tools I used in the description. That should give you an idea on the prices. If you have the tools, space, and time, it's worth repairing yourself. I'm unsure about laws in Ontario, but there are no safety laws or inspections here in Ohio. You can drive any rusty heap on the roads, as long as all the lighting works properly. I think when done properly, there is no structural integrity taken away, only added. So it's only going to be more safe than it was.
Amazing bro
Thanks!
How does one decide, when to remove the body for rusted panel replacement?
I don't fully understand the question. But removing the ca wouldn't have made the repair much easier in this case. The only time removing the cab made it easier was to clean up the welds on the underside of the floor and apply seam sealer there.
GOOD TO SEE YOUR STILL THROWING OUT NICE VIDEOS THAT ARE VERY EDUCATIONAL 👊🏻👍🏻💪🏻✌️
Thank you! You've been subscribed since the beginning, when I only had a couple thousand subs. I appreciate that!!!
Лучше использовать резиновый шпатель или кисть(пальцы можно не плохо порезать)
Good job!
Thanks!
Is weld through primer actually zinc spray? Because I can't buy that primer anywhere in europe
Yes, it does contain some Zinc, but I'm unsure of the other ingredients that make it different from a Zinc spray or Zinc based primer.
I will certainly clean up all the surface rust i can reach on the chasis before putting a new floor pan on top of it. That's "once in a lifetime" opportunity to have that part exposed.
Excellent, I would have done the same but this frame is too rotted. I have a better one from a parts truck that I restored to put this cab onto: ua-cam.com/video/gmFx6OUw7Xo/v-deo.html
I believe rocker panel first then floors??
I think either method would work. I started with the floor because it was the most rusty and the rocker panel was pretty good. On the passenger side, I did the rocker panel and floor at the same time: ua-cam.com/video/JrmNcHkoDYs/v-deo.html
Looking gd .Just getting started on removing rust myself. good to see u can make the bends needed with vise.
Good job!!
Thanks!
Why do floor pans have raised and dipped impressions fabricated into them???? Sorry new to this sort of stuff.
Good question! It adds extra strength to make them more rigid.
as a welder the only thing i can say is that you dont need that much gas, you can go to 10 psi or even lower for stuff like that
Good to know, thanks!
You sir have good taste in music.
All is good . But what if there is no floor panel in any autobody shop to buy. I would have to make my own floor panel
Yeah You'd have to start with a piece of sheet metal and fabricate your own, like I did with the smaller sections of this floor, but you'd be fabricating the entire thing. Large flat sheets of steel tend to flex. I'd use sheet metal 2mm thick so that the floor doesn't flex when you rest your feet on it.
@@6thGearGarage2mm? Is this 1/8 inch plate?.
2mm is thinner than 1/8". 1/8" is more suited for a frame repair.
28:21 The kitten 🥰 reminded me that I should give a like
He loves to help!
Would the pickup floor pan fit an 88 4Runner?
Yes it should, they are the same body until after the doors.
@@6thGearGarage okay I will double check to make sure thanks dude
@@6thGearGarage Would the floor pan fit an Extra Cab pickup too? or its only for a regular cab.
@@Random_Car_Guy yes it would, Xtra cab is the same from the seats forward.
@@6thGearGarage Alr thx man I’m 16 and I recently bought a 1988 xtra cab to help me learn how to work on cars I did an oil change and changed the parking brake cable. Now I gotta do the engine belts and floor pans
I am surprised you didn*t cut all the good metal from the parts truck to replace all the rusted parts from the blue pick-up, it would cut cost down it has all the shapes & cont9urs of the pick-up.
I would have but the southern truck's floor was just as bad as the ohio truck's floor.
Well done
thank you!
Pretty Amazing 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thanks! 😄
Thank for music!
That's interesting that you said the welds on the body mount bracket wasn't your best. Weld through primer is a weld contaminant.
Good point! Also, thanks for defending my subpar welds. I'm a decent welder but some days are better than others :)