Caught you opening video on making a Krenov style plane and loved it. Some day I hope to follow your instruction. I think your presentation is evidence of a successful teaching career and I want to see the rest of your videos. Krenov is my favorite author and while his work I have a desire to build furniture of the southwest/Mexican/Indian style. If I am reading your comments right you taught at the college in California which is not far from where my brother lived for many years. I wish you all the best as I look forward to more great videos. In Christ,
This was a superb series on the topic of making Krenov style planes, thanks a lot! Going to have at it as soon as I find some suitable lumber. Judging by the local lumber yards here in Sweden one could draw the conclusion that Swedes have abandoned all types of carpentry other than structural and wall framing :(
Going to build along as these videos come out! That lead-shot-filled shooting plane is not the one you've used in previous UA-cam videos, is it? IIRC, your shooting plane in those videos has some crazy jungle wood sides. I ask because I think I'll build a Krenov-style shooting plane as you release your videos, and I'm wondering which you prefer. Thanks!
Glad to hear you're going to build a plane! You will love it. This series of videos was originally created in February 2021, prior to the build of the bocote shooting plane (the "crazy jungle wood" one). The build of that plane will follow this series. The maple shooting plane in this video was made a year or two earlier. It works well but I wanted one that was a little longer and easier to hold.
I watched all five of your videos this afternoon and was much impressed, but metal planes still work better for me...and I have an original JK signed smoother, complete with the box that Jim used to send it to me and the original test shavings he took. The videos are very good, but your cavalier use of the table saw seems typical of many users in the New World and alas the UK as well. You pass your hand directly over the unguarded blade and they also are perilously close to the same blade; a pair of push sticks should be used which are no shorter than 400mm. Also the crown guard and riving knife should be fitted at all times. When using the chop saw for the second cut, it would have been far safer to clamp the block in position rather than hold it with your hand. I used to work as a cabinet maker for a short time and all the table saw techniques shown have been illegal in the UK for many decades in professional workshops; you're simply not allowed to use any machine without proper guarding. Apart from the H&S issues, a pretty good series of videos!
Thanks for the nice comments and for voicing your concerns. We all have our methods that work for us. I find that the control I get from the low pushstick to be much greater than that with longer pushsticks. I have tried them and they seem very unwieldy. If I had started out with them the situation might be reversed, but that's how I learned and it works for me. Note too that we teach at Cerritos College the same technique I demonstrate, and we never had a serious table-saw injury in the 20+ years I was there, nor was I aware of any injuries prior to my arrival. It's a big program, with hundreds of students every semester, so we're talking about thousands of students. It reminds me of a time a colleague and I were being checked out on a table saw. I was using the technique shown in my video, and due to my body position I was told it was unsafe because a kickback would hit me in the gut. The commenter (a high school woodshop teacher) said they teach their students to move off to one side to avoid the trajectory of an errant workpiece. In my mind, that put me in a position that gave me less control over the workpiece, thereby increasing the chance of a kickback. I do use a splitter on my table saw; I think it is the best way to minimize the chance of a kickback. Unfortunately my saw (like most American saws) is not made to use a riving knife. It may be hard to see in the videos because it only sticks up about 3/4". I have a blade guard, but I find that for the work I do it is in the way so often I don't use it anymore. Thanks again for your comments. It's always good to get respectful disagreement.
@@CarlStammerjohn As I mentioned Carl, were you to teach students in a college in the UK, you would absolutely have no choice but to follow the relevant UK H&S laws. If you're caught breaking them, you will get prosecuted! I was a witness many years ago to a maker who asked the boss if he could remove the guarding on a huge sliding table saw in order to get 'more control'. He was told, using highly industrial terminology (you'll be able to work that out) that it was illegal to take off the guard.
Caught you opening video on making a Krenov style plane and loved it. Some day I hope to follow your instruction. I think your presentation is evidence of a successful teaching career and I want to see the rest of your videos. Krenov is my favorite author and while his work I have a desire to build furniture of the southwest/Mexican/Indian style. If I am reading your comments right you taught at the college in California which is not far from where my brother lived for many years. I wish you all the best as I look forward to more great videos. In Christ,
Thanks very much for the kind words!
So pumped for this Carl! If you could go into detail on the shaped handle on your short jointer that would be great also!
That would be awesome, great idea
See the handle build video at ua-cam.com/video/HWV3NxsjQmg/v-deo.html
This was a superb series on the topic of making Krenov style planes, thanks a lot!
Going to have at it as soon as I find some suitable lumber. Judging by the local lumber yards here in Sweden one could draw the conclusion that Swedes have abandoned all types of carpentry other than structural and wall framing :(
Going to build along as these videos come out! That lead-shot-filled shooting plane is not the one you've used in previous UA-cam videos, is it? IIRC, your shooting plane in those videos has some crazy jungle wood sides. I ask because I think I'll build a Krenov-style shooting plane as you release your videos, and I'm wondering which you prefer. Thanks!
Glad to hear you're going to build a plane! You will love it.
This series of videos was originally created in February 2021, prior to the build of the bocote shooting plane (the "crazy jungle wood" one). The build of that plane will follow this series. The maple shooting plane in this video was made a year or two earlier. It works well but I wanted one that was a little longer and easier to hold.
I watched all five of your videos this afternoon and was much impressed, but metal planes still work better for me...and I have an original JK signed smoother, complete with the box that Jim used to send it to me and the original test shavings he took. The videos are very good, but your cavalier use of the table saw seems typical of many users in the New World and alas the UK as well. You pass your hand directly over the unguarded blade and they also are perilously close to the same blade; a pair of push sticks should be used which are no shorter than 400mm. Also the crown guard and riving knife should be fitted at all times. When using the chop saw for the second cut, it would have been far safer to clamp the block in position rather than hold it with your hand. I used to work as a cabinet maker for a short time and all the table saw techniques shown have been illegal in the UK for many decades in professional workshops; you're simply not allowed to use any machine without proper guarding. Apart from the H&S issues, a pretty good series of videos!
Thanks for the nice comments and for voicing your concerns. We all have our methods that work for us. I find that the control I get from the low pushstick to be much greater than that with longer pushsticks. I have tried them and they seem very unwieldy. If I had started out with them the situation might be reversed, but that's how I learned and it works for me. Note too that we teach at Cerritos College the same technique I demonstrate, and we never had a serious table-saw injury in the 20+ years I was there, nor was I aware of any injuries prior to my arrival. It's a big program, with hundreds of students every semester, so we're talking about thousands of students.
It reminds me of a time a colleague and I were being checked out on a table saw. I was using the technique shown in my video, and due to my body position I was told it was unsafe because a kickback would hit me in the gut. The commenter (a high school woodshop teacher) said they teach their students to move off to one side to avoid the trajectory of an errant workpiece. In my mind, that put me in a position that gave me less control over the workpiece, thereby increasing the chance of a kickback.
I do use a splitter on my table saw; I think it is the best way to minimize the chance of a kickback. Unfortunately my saw (like most American saws) is not made to use a riving knife. It may be hard to see in the videos because it only sticks up about 3/4". I have a blade guard, but I find that for the work I do it is in the way so often I don't use it anymore.
Thanks again for your comments. It's always good to get respectful disagreement.
I should also note that I too prefer metal planes. Very nice that you have an original Krenov plane; that's awesome!
@@CarlStammerjohn As I mentioned Carl, were you to teach students in a college in the UK, you would absolutely have no choice but to follow the relevant UK H&S laws. If you're caught breaking them, you will get prosecuted! I was a witness many years ago to a maker who asked the boss if he could remove the guarding on a huge sliding table saw in order to get 'more control'. He was told, using highly industrial terminology (you'll be able to work that out) that it was illegal to take off the guard.