Krenov-Style Wood Plane Build Part 2
Вставка
- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- Part 2 in a series on making a Krenov-style wood plane, based on David Finck's book, "Making and Mastering Wood Planes." For more info, see my blog at carlstammerjohn.com/?p=771.
Timeline:
00:00 Drilling the holes for the body alignment dowels
02:38 Installing and trimming the dowels
05:43 Locating and drilling the cross-pin holes
08:37 Making the cross-pin
15:25 Fitting and shaping the cross-pin tenon
18:35 Shaping the cross-pin - Навчання та стиль
Excellent video, thank you for the content. Looking forward to the next one. Great idea on the brass centering pin.
Great instructions as usual Carl. Hope all is well
Krenov filed the square tennon on the crosspiece round. It’s easy.
As I show in the video, I use the method that David Finck describes in his book. When I was teaching I needed a method that was fairly quick and relatively foolproof, so I created the plug-cutter setup on a drill press in our shop, and students just had to clamp their crosspin stock in place to cut the tenon.
As one who taught many hundreds students in the course of my career, I can assure you that what you describe as easy would not be so for most people. When you're dealing with a wide variety of skills and talents, one has to pick and choose their battles.
Great video man. I was just wondering, what's the rationale for the position of the crosspin? Are those measurements essential for the function of the plane or is it simply the most effective position? Can one get away with a different spot for the crosspin? Also, I've seen some people make a krenov plane with a completely round crosspin, does that make any difference?
Thanks! The measurement I use is what David Finck recommends; it works for a couple of reasons. If it was lower, it would inhibit access to the mouth of the plane. You need that to clear out shavings when they get stuck there. Moving it higher wouldn't provide as much downforce to the blade where you need it most - at the mouth. So the position is a compromise of access and holding power.
A round pin works fine. I have used 5/16" or 3/8" brass bar instead of the wood cross pin. When I was teaching I had the students use that for their first plane to simplify construction and greatly speed up the build. It also has the advantage of being able to install it after the plane is glued up and it gives you a bit more room to access the mouth. The downside (depending on your aesthetic sensibilities) is that it isn't as elegant as the wood cross pin. And it puts all the pressure on the wedge in one line, which can leave an impression on the wedge making it a little harder to fine tune.
@@CarlStammerjohn Very interesting. I'm currently in the process of making a jointer plane in a krenov-ish style, should I use the same measures or are these specific to this plane exactly?
Use the same measurements. They should work for almost all planes. The only time you might want to use something different is if you have a really high bed angle, and even then these measurements will typically work.
@@CarlStammerjohn Thanks for the info, the plane is coming along very well. The krenov style came in really handy, I don't think I could have handled a traditional method