You are absolutely right about using a FP gauge.. I had a s10 blazer that wouldn't start and I pushed the schraider valve down and fuel was spraying out really good so I wasted 4 hours and pulling my hair out! I think I emailed you and you said check the pressure :) so I did and only had about 45psi when I think it was supposed to be around 55-60psi. Man did I learn a lesson there!! Great video
Paul, It was clear that the most probable cause of the lack of fuel pressure was a malfunctioning fuel pump or a resistive power-feed, but I did appreciate your use of the PP4 to show the injector signal pulse and waveform data points. The fact that the PP4 also provides a reliable ground can definitely save me time. I love your clear explanations. Keep up the great work.
That undercarriage looks pretty good by MA standards. These days vehicles 5 years old look exactly like that ... lol. Thanks for what you do, Paul - you've given me direction! Now when I work on OBD-I or OBD-II stuff, I grab diagnostic tools ... instead of a BFH. :D
Hello Paul great easy and a simple checks. I have the new power probe 4 also. Love the injector ms pid. Studying for my recertification of my L1 with the new composite vehicle type 4. Wish me well.😉😉
Best tool you could ever own. No need to buy the fancy IV or other expensive ones. Simply a PP2 will suffice and you will have a live power and ground in your hand for a plethora of testing purposes.
yeah something i learned from a guy named vince is the texas two step any time you use a volt meter use a jump wire that reaches the battery if you want accuracy. there is potential voltage drop from anywhere else.
Paul next time you get a chance checking power and grounds, use the feed test feature. It's pretty cool. Used it quite a few times now and it works real well.
I think it's very important that you mention the engine must be attempted to be started recently before doing the schrader test you show. You can't just walk up to a vehicle after its sat for a couple days or weeks and expect pressure there. Even in a good working system there will be a bleed off period. You have to at least attempt to start the vehicle which you did in the previous spark test. Someone who doesn't have a spark tester might just jump to the next step they can do. "I don't have a spark tester but I can press on a schrader valve". I know you know that, but for the sake of communication you left that part out. Been a while, miss me? :P
Hey Paul, I've been watching your videos for around like one year and have to say they are A+++++ and helped me a lot in diagnosing stuff. I have this weird and stupid sounding question in my mind which I tried a lot to find an answer by myself but failed. Hope you might have a better clarification. Whenever I read a code for miss-communication/ communication failed, related to any electronic control module (SRS, ABS, VSC, EPS, etc), first I check the fuses and relays, then try powers and grounds at the corresponding module, then some live data on the scanner, then I wiggle the wires around, and yet sometimes fail to find any issue at all. Then I pull out the main connector(s) to the module, clean it with compressed air blow and then plug it back in and it starts working. This has happened to me many time! Clearly, there are no visible wiring issues whatsoever. When I tried to clear the codes before cleaning, it does not clear or comes back again. But after cleaning, it goes away and the customer(s) never complained on the same issue either. The wiring connector looks almost intact and no water or dust contamination, yet after blowing some air, it starts working. For me, I see no proper pattern for this issue and it even happened on new cars with only few thousand kilometers. I feel ashamed to say to the customers about what I did, when they ask me, and they think I'm a genius, but all I did was just blow some air and clean it, that's all. How is this possible? on almost brand new cars, on a clearly intact/untouched wiring harness/connectors? Any comments, explanations are much appreciated! Ta
You did a good job. Removing and reconnecting the terminals can be a repair. Only a slight amount of corrosion, even if you can't see is enough to halt current flow. You had the answer.
agree, remember the old days of the original Nintendo cartridges? We used to remove them, blow on them, then the game would work :-) Sorry, I don't have a better explanation than what daveS ministry gave you
PowerProbe IV is a great diagnostic tool. I swap between my LoadPro and my PP4 but one slip of your finger on the PP4 and putting 12V to a circuit can become an expensive oops. Nice video Paul
Nice video. An FYI, you can remove the black probe on the Power Probe and then plug a lead from a DVOM/Vantage/etc. to give yourself, and us, better viewing access. Additionally, for another fuel pump test, why not just unplug the fuel pump connector and attach the Power Probe to the fuel pump's power and ground wires (via a back probe (green light = continuity, then press the button and give it power to see if it runs))?
True but you would not know if the pump was working or just running? It would be the same if you shot carb cleaner in the intake to see if it start's on it telling you the pump is not working even if you hear it running?
If you are by yourself, and have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up, then one can determine if the fuel pump is pumping when applying power. If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, but you have a helper, when applying power have the helper crank the engine to see if it starts.
Checking injectors pulse is needed because in some systems the computer needs rpm signal to run the pump. I'm saw that on Mitsubishi GDI's and Toyota Rav4 '06 that I worked on.
For sure and I agree completely. That is why I showed the injector pulse test, to verify an RPM signal. However, the reason I said it wasn't necessary in this application, was Chrysler (Jeep) systems do provide a key on prime that is independent of the RPM signal. If this system was providing a prime (with a good pump), I would have had some fuel come out of the fuel rail on my schrader valve test. Make sense?
"i realise not everyone has a fuelpressuregauge" ... thank yout !!!! this is so true but so many tutorial just dont care about that and assume hobbyist like us have all the fancy tools XD
Hi Paul, I too like the Power Probe tools I now use the HOOK. I wish that Power Probe made it a bit smaller. I think that you would like it better as well. I noticed that you had a bit of a problem using the Power probe . I have a tip for you remove the test probe and use your test leads to make using the power probe easer to use. Hope that this helps. Also the hook you can change the voltage and amps outputs . Check it out. Michael.
Great vid as usual, thanks so much. The rust you need to deal with is no fun. I live in the middle of the Pacific Ocean and don't see that kind of rust.
Great video! Does this apply to a 1990 Cherokee 4.0 as well? I am having an intermittent problem with mine. I went to check for spark and the freaking thing started right up! I can actually hear my fuel pump when I turn on my key, but sometimes there is nothing.
Great info Paul. If the pump provides a prime every time you turn the key, why is residual pressure important? Mazda return less systems have check valves for bleeding off pressure. Thanks!
Because I was using that knowledge of residual pressure to guide me. Having no pressure in the rail suggested the pump was never providing pressure in the first place. This system should absolutely hold pressure on shut down. Now, one could make the argument that the system also had a bleed down problem and was not holding pressure on shut down but that is a stretch. I would have had something come out of that schrader valve, there was nothing. Also, this is why I did the injector pulse test. To show I had spark and injector pulse, with nothing at the schrader valve = fuel pressure problem for sure. Make sense? Granted, the best test was to use a pressure gauge and then crank it over to confirm. I was just showing an alternative.
Yes, of course, that makes sense Paul. Using residual pressure for direction here makes perfect sense. I'm struggling with why residual pressure matters at all on a properly operating vehicle given the start up prime.
without the rest (residual) pressure the system will suffer from long crank times. Especially with the engine hot. The rest pressure helps prevent fuel from boiling in the fuel rail on shut down. (raise in psi = raise in boiling point) Make sense?
I've heard you mention fuel boiling in the rails many times. Never put it together with residual pressure. Makes perfect sense now. Thanks so much for taking the time to explain.
Might be a dumb question. But when your starting the Jeep multiple times to check the fuel pump connection. Did you just unplug a spark plug wire so the Jeep doesn't actually start? Or is the jeep just not starting at all
The cranking test I showed was the load (on a good pump of course). If I had a wiring problem, this is when it would have shown up. Read my reply to Vaughn Dibble
+ScannerDanner Just crazy busy , I don't always comment but I watch every vid and I always give a thumbs up. Hey Paul for the first time in my life I went to America last week, Avoca NY. You have a terrific country down there and hope to visit you too one day. Cheers
No need to load the wires to that pump. 10-11 volts on the feed and .02 on the ground with no pump operation is a bad pump EVERY time (or something open inside the tank). One could make the argument that with an open pump brush contact, that I am not technically loading the circuit and that my wiring tests were incomplete. I would agree, BUT, if there was a wiring problem preventing this pump from running, the test I showed (cranking test) would have shown it. The pump is the load in the circuit, if there was a wiring problem I would have seen it. Check out this video with a bad pump ground. ua-cam.com/video/rQ7tvIxQSt0/v-deo.html You would have to have an open pump brush contact AND and external wiring problem AT THE SAME TIME. It just doesn't happen. The load pro has its place, but it's not here.
+ONBOARDTECH333KMD combine that with the fact that the power being tested here is also under a voltage drop due to the engine cranking , which would also show a raising voltage in the ground side, slight but you'd then have to do the math.
Great vid thanks! My problem now is matching up the wires correctly. New pump has red, orange, black and black/green. Jeep harness has Brown/yellow, blue, Green/white and black and at smaller guage then the pump! My harness was compacted from something offroad so like a dummy i cut it out and tossed it. Anyone able to solve this riddle for me?
@@lakecortes if psi is normal when it is running and you have no other symptoms other than a long crank time, then you definitely need to address this bleed down issue. How many fuel lines does your fuel filter have? 2 or 3? IF it has 3, the psi regulator is in the fuel filter and I can give you some tests to do.
So what if you test for fuel pressure and there is none, so you install a new fuel pump...still nothing. The fuel pump isnt even turning on. So you jump the fuel pump relay and you hear it turn on, but it's not turning on with the key. So we ordered a new PCM that was ordered by the vin number and came "programmed". Installed it and still nothing! What else should I look at? What else could it be? I have spark, the fuel pump relay is good, the fuel pump is new, the battery terminals have been cleaned and the battery is good. I am lost at this point. The jeep drove fine, my buddy parked and went into a store for 2 hours, came out and went to start it and it wouldn't start. No issues leading up to it. It's a 2001 jeep grand Cherokee with a 4.0L, auto trans and is a Laredo with 2wd. Only thing I can think of at this point is an ignition switch issue of some sort. I dont really know where else to look. Can you help?
It is becoming more and more difficult to answer questions here. I have 80,000 people asking me for help now. So I have created a forum to help you guys better. It is free to join and we can exchange pictures, wiring diagrams and waveforms if needed to help guide you through the process of troubleshooting your vehicle. Thank you so much! Hope to see you there. Paul Danner (ScannerDanner) www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee runs like a champ we have owned it since new he's been well maintained leaks oil but other hen that nothing wrong with Ac even works no rust on it but in not I. The salt belt. 172,000 just normal things have needed to be done like ball joints radiator some recalls new hoses still has the factory fuel pump I been running medium grade fuel threw it coolant has been changed.just went in for tranny fluid and filter change still had the oem computer just had new champion spark plugs put in runs great I get about 17 mpg highway and bout 12-14 city depending on how I drive so far nothing major I also had a 98 jeep grand loved it it looked brand new was in great shape 180 k then it got wrecked
All these videos be like....here is how you do this at home....first break out your 1000 dollar tool....understand youre doing this to make people understand what to look for and thats great butyou got some nice tools there bud that make things easy. Cant DO anything you do we all have to pay someone for this lol
I'm teaching to technicians my friend. But with some interest and determination, I can teach you too. Even with minimal tools, you'll learn where the weaknesses are but be able to utilize them better
@@ScannerDanner I have a 96 Eclipse GST fresh rebuild. Got compression. Power. Spark. Fuel flowing through the rail. But zero on fuel pressure tester. Mine is a gauge that hooks to the banjo on the fuel filter. Can’t figure it out for the life of me.
@@ScannerDanner no reason to think I don’t have good power. Battery tests good, full power throughout the car, cranks like a brand new motor…ground at the pump should be good, 2 connectors and 2 lines…just plugged them in and replaced the pump with a new one. Looked exactly the same as my old one.
Hey man, love this video, but not sure it's going to help me. Can you check my channel and see if anything jumps at you regarding my jeep problem? I have intermittent stalling and can't figure out where to problem lies. I'm trying to capture live data, but I don't even know what to do with it once it's captured. Or which data might be worth capturing. Please help!
not 100% but I think the power probe will only light up or beeb when u have the same voltage as the battery to let u know of bad ground or bad wiring. (reference voltage) also will the Jeep fuel pump be powered with just ignition? cheers dude
![How to Test for a Stuck Open Fuel Pressure Regulator! [A ScannerDanner Premium Lecture]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZG8rMJwILxA/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Test for a Stuck Open Fuel Pressure Regulator! [A ScannerDanner Premium Lecture]](/img/tr.png)
You are absolutely right about using a FP gauge.. I had a s10 blazer that wouldn't start and I pushed the schraider valve down and fuel was spraying out really good so I wasted 4 hours and pulling my hair out! I think I emailed you and you said check the pressure :) so I did and only had about 45psi when I think it was supposed to be around 55-60psi.
Man did I learn a lesson there!!
Great video
Paul, It was clear that the most probable cause of the lack of fuel pressure was a malfunctioning fuel pump or a resistive power-feed, but I did appreciate your use of the PP4 to show the injector signal pulse and waveform data points. The fact that the PP4 also provides a reliable ground can definitely save me time. I love your clear explanations.
Keep up the great work.
Power probe is an invaluable tool where battery ground is a must, which is the case for many circuits on today's vehicles.
That undercarriage looks pretty good by MA standards. These days vehicles 5 years old look exactly like that ... lol.
Thanks for what you do, Paul - you've given me direction! Now when I work on OBD-I or OBD-II stuff, I grab diagnostic tools ... instead of a BFH. :D
haha thanks, I still like a BFH sometimes. I miss the days of smacking a ball joint out of a lower control arm
Nice to see you using the power probe. It saves so much time.
definitely very helpful to be connected directly to the battery for this test
Great videos. I prefer for a "quick and dirty" test of injectors without hooking up a scope, is using a stethoscope.
Back in the day that was a long screwdriver and the handle to your ear.
Hello Paul
great easy and a simple checks. I have the new power probe 4 also. Love the injector ms pid. Studying for my recertification of my L1 with the new composite vehicle type 4. Wish me well.😉😉
good luck brother
+ScannerDanner thanks Paul
Never knew the PProbe could check for injector pulse. Awesome tool.
Only the PPIV. The old ones did not have this capability. At least the ones without a screen.
AWESOME! AWESOME! AWESOME! Thank you ScannerDanner. This video taught me so much...watched it like 5 times already...
Thanks Charles!
Good video . I have thought about trying a power probe , but just never have for some reason or another
Best tool you could ever own. No need to buy the fancy IV or other expensive ones. Simply a PP2 will suffice and you will have a live power and ground in your hand for a plethora of testing purposes.
yeah something i learned from a guy named vince is the texas two step any time you use a volt meter use a jump wire that reaches the battery if you want accuracy. there is potential voltage drop from anywhere else.
Paul next time you get a chance checking power and grounds, use the feed test feature. It's pretty cool. Used it quite a few times now and it works real well.
I think it's very important that you mention the engine must be attempted to be started recently before doing the schrader test you show. You can't just walk up to a vehicle after its sat for a couple days or weeks and expect pressure there. Even in a good working system there will be a bleed off period. You have to at least attempt to start the vehicle which you did in the previous spark test. Someone who doesn't have a spark tester might just jump to the next step they can do. "I don't have a spark tester but I can press on a schrader valve". I know you know that, but for the sake of communication you left that part out. Been a while, miss me? :P
yeah, I'm regretting even showing that test to be honest with you. Just something that can be used in a pinch. Thank bro and yes good to see you back!
Hey Paul, I've been watching your videos for around like one year and have to say they are A+++++ and helped me a lot in diagnosing stuff. I have this weird and stupid sounding question in my mind which I tried a lot to find an answer by myself but failed. Hope you might have a better clarification. Whenever I read a code for miss-communication/ communication failed, related to any electronic control module (SRS, ABS, VSC, EPS, etc), first I check the fuses and relays, then try powers and grounds at the corresponding module, then some live data on the scanner, then I wiggle the wires around, and yet sometimes fail to find any issue at all. Then I pull out the main connector(s) to the module, clean it with compressed air blow and then plug it back in and it starts working. This has happened to me many time! Clearly, there are no visible wiring issues whatsoever. When I tried to clear the codes before cleaning, it does not clear or comes back again. But after cleaning, it goes away and the customer(s) never complained on the same issue either. The wiring connector looks almost intact and no water or dust contamination, yet after blowing some air, it starts working. For me, I see no proper pattern for this issue and it even happened on new cars with only few thousand kilometers. I feel ashamed to say to the customers about what I did, when they ask me, and they think I'm a genius, but all I did was just blow some air and clean it, that's all. How is this possible? on almost brand new cars, on a clearly intact/untouched wiring harness/connectors? Any comments, explanations are much appreciated! Ta
You did a good job. Removing and reconnecting the terminals can be a repair. Only a slight amount of corrosion, even if you can't see is enough to halt current flow. You had the answer.
agree, remember the old days of the original Nintendo cartridges? We used to remove them, blow on them, then the game would work :-)
Sorry, I don't have a better explanation than what daveS ministry gave you
PowerProbe IV is a great diagnostic tool. I swap between my LoadPro and my PP4 but one slip of your finger on the PP4 and putting 12V to a circuit can become an expensive oops. Nice video Paul
Nice video. An FYI, you can remove the black probe on the Power Probe and then plug a lead from a DVOM/Vantage/etc. to give yourself, and us, better viewing access. Additionally, for another fuel pump test, why not just unplug the fuel pump connector and attach the Power Probe to the fuel pump's power and ground wires (via a back probe (green light = continuity, then press the button and give it power to see if it runs))?
True but you would not know if the pump was working or just running? It would be the same if you shot carb cleaner in the intake to see if it start's on it telling you the pump is not working even if you hear it running?
If you are by yourself, and have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up, then one can determine if the fuel pump is pumping when applying power. If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, but you have a helper, when applying power have the helper crank the engine to see if it starts.
That's what you would be doing in the first place when you try to start it same thing. but the best way is with a gauge.
Checking injectors pulse is needed because in some systems the computer needs rpm signal to run the pump. I'm saw that on Mitsubishi GDI's and Toyota Rav4 '06 that I worked on.
For sure and I agree completely. That is why I showed the injector pulse test, to verify an RPM signal. However, the reason I said it wasn't necessary in this application, was Chrysler (Jeep) systems do provide a key on prime that is independent of the RPM signal. If this system was providing a prime (with a good pump), I would have had some fuel come out of the fuel rail on my schrader valve test. Make sense?
Yes 100%. I was most surprised about a lack of key on fuel prime on the JDM GDI's I came across. Then again those were swaps.
for sure, I've seen other systems with no prime as well. The older Toyotas with the Vane Airflow Sensor didn't have a prime.
"i realise not everyone has a fuelpressuregauge" ... thank yout !!!! this is so true but so many tutorial just dont care about that and assume hobbyist like us have all the fancy tools XD
Hi Paul,
I too like the Power Probe tools I now use the HOOK. I wish that Power Probe made it a bit smaller. I think that you would like it better as well. I noticed that you had a bit of a problem using the Power probe . I have a tip for you remove the test probe and use your test leads to make using the power probe easer to use. Hope that this helps.
Also the hook you can change the voltage and amps outputs . Check it out.
Michael.
I actually have the hook Michael. I just never used it yet :-)
Thanks man
Hey brother! Excellent video, nice to see a power probe too.
shalom brother
+ScannerDanner shalom Paul
The ignition coil is also involved in the ASD circuit...
Good direct teaching, .another good video.
thanks man
Great vid as usual, thanks so much. The rust you need to deal with is no fun. I live in the middle of the Pacific Ocean and don't see that kind of rust.
Love the power probe! I have two, (1 being the Hook too).
Great stuff Paul. I like to see that we can still use some basic tools to do diagnostics.
Great video! Does this apply to a 1990 Cherokee 4.0 as well? I am having an intermittent problem with mine. I went to check for spark and the freaking thing started right up! I can actually hear my fuel pump when I turn on my key, but sometimes there is nothing.
Great info Paul. If the pump provides a prime every time you turn the key, why is residual pressure important? Mazda return less systems have check valves for bleeding off pressure. Thanks!
Because I was using that knowledge of residual pressure to guide me. Having no pressure in the rail suggested the pump was never providing pressure in the first place. This system should absolutely hold pressure on shut down. Now, one could make the argument that the system also had a bleed down problem and was not holding pressure on shut down but that is a stretch. I would have had something come out of that schrader valve, there was nothing. Also, this is why I did the injector pulse test. To show I had spark and injector pulse, with nothing at the schrader valve = fuel pressure problem for sure. Make sense?
Granted, the best test was to use a pressure gauge and then crank it over to confirm. I was just showing an alternative.
Yes, of course, that makes sense Paul. Using residual pressure for direction here makes perfect sense. I'm struggling with why residual pressure matters at all on a properly operating vehicle given the start up prime.
without the rest (residual) pressure the system will suffer from long crank times. Especially with the engine hot. The rest pressure helps prevent fuel from boiling in the fuel rail on shut down. (raise in psi = raise in boiling point)
Make sense?
I've heard you mention fuel boiling in the rails many times. Never put it together with residual pressure. Makes perfect sense now. Thanks so much for taking the time to explain.
absolutely. Thank you for being here and commenting!
Might be a dumb question. But when your starting the Jeep multiple times to check the fuel pump connection. Did you just unplug a spark plug wire so the Jeep doesn't actually start? Or is the jeep just not starting at all
good video paul. thanks for share.
thanks Courtney!
Awesome as usual Paul!.... Is it possible to Load test power and ground with this too, to verify if a wire is corroded and creating voltage drop?
Don't believe the power probe can do a load test
The cranking test I showed was the load (on a good pump of course). If I had a wiring problem, this is when it would have shown up. Read my reply to Vaughn Dibble
Nice vid Paul. Cheers buddy..
Thanks Steve! Haven't heard from you in awhile. Everything good?
+ScannerDanner Just crazy busy , I don't always comment but I watch every vid and I always give a thumbs up. Hey Paul for the first time in my life I went to America last week, Avoca NY. You have a terrific country down there and hope to visit you too one day. Cheers
That would be cool. We would have to get together with my big bro too
ScannerDanner Absolutely cant forget about him.
This wold been good job for the lode pro
no load pro necessary, the load is already in the circuit
No need to load the wires to that pump. 10-11 volts on the feed and .02 on the ground with no pump operation is a bad pump EVERY time (or something open inside the tank). One could make the argument that with an open pump brush contact, that I am not technically loading the circuit and that my wiring tests were incomplete. I would agree, BUT, if there was a wiring problem preventing this pump from running, the test I showed (cranking test) would have shown it. The pump is the load in the circuit, if there was a wiring problem I would have seen it. Check out this video with a bad pump ground. ua-cam.com/video/rQ7tvIxQSt0/v-deo.html
You would have to have an open pump brush contact AND and external wiring problem AT THE SAME TIME. It just doesn't happen.
The load pro has its place, but it's not here.
+ONBOARDTECH333KMD combine that with the fact that the power being tested here is also under a voltage drop due to the engine cranking , which would also show a raising voltage in the ground side, slight but you'd then have to do the math.
exactly
+ScannerDanner there is a load test function on the pp4
Awesome. South Africa
Nice scanner. Nice thanks
Nice video Paul thanks for share =P
good video amigo
Question
I have new parts on my 1998 grand Cherokee but my Jeep won’t stay on only stays on for 30 seconds what can it be.
You need to find out what you are missing when it stalls, spark or fuel
Great vid thanks! My problem now is matching up the wires correctly. New pump has red, orange, black and black/green. Jeep harness has Brown/yellow, blue, Green/white and black and at smaller guage then the pump!
My harness was compacted from something offroad so like a dummy i cut it out and tossed it.
Anyone able to solve this riddle for me?
How would you diagnose a voltage drop to the pump?
The end result diagnose is that it needs to replaced with a new aluminium ford.
muy buen vídeo
pls make a video on diesel engine also. The snap on scanner will work on diesel cars also
unfortunately we have a very small market with diesel cars here in the US, so I have no experience with them.
New fuel pump, new battery, new plugs, new spark plugs cables, new injectors and still making the long crank. 1998 cherokee 4.0
what does fuel pressure do on shut down? does it hold?
@@ScannerDanner no fuel pressure.at schraeder valve or very low.
@@lakecortes if psi is normal when it is running and you have no other symptoms other than a long crank time, then you definitely need to address this bleed down issue. How many fuel lines does your fuel filter have? 2 or 3? IF it has 3, the psi regulator is in the fuel filter and I can give you some tests to do.
The regulator is inside the fuel tank. Its a post 97 and is inside, up the fuel pump. Not exterior like in the pre 96 models
So what if you test for fuel pressure and there is none, so you install a new fuel pump...still nothing. The fuel pump isnt even turning on. So you jump the fuel pump relay and you hear it turn on, but it's not turning on with the key. So we ordered a new PCM that was ordered by the vin number and came "programmed". Installed it and still nothing! What else should I look at? What else could it be? I have spark, the fuel pump relay is good, the fuel pump is new, the battery terminals have been cleaned and the battery is good. I am lost at this point. The jeep drove fine, my buddy parked and went into a store for 2 hours, came out and went to start it and it wouldn't start. No issues leading up to it. It's a 2001 jeep grand Cherokee with a 4.0L, auto trans and is a Laredo with 2wd. Only thing I can think of at this point is an ignition switch issue of some sort. I dont really know where else to look. Can you help?
Mikeman hoff did you fix your problem with the Jeep what was the issue. I am having the same issue
Little constructive criticism, you should explain where the connection is on the vehicle at 7:13.
is that something I can answer for you now? Or in general? We've gotten better over the years
@@ScannerDanner I figured it out, just want to help you make a video that can be a little more informative. Thanks for the reply
Curious how many miles on that 94?
I don't remember, sorry man
Has to be a lot on a 1994.
No problem love the videos keep em coming
No relay on this heep for fuel pump?
master
Also tell your brother to upload some new stuff.😊😊😊
Yes what's up with jimmy paul?
A quote from Cain "am I my brothers keeper?" :-)
+ScannerDanner yes you are SD
***** See paul that's why we got on you last time.
+Eddie Martinez hey Eddie how are you
can't you just cycle the key to on and hear the pump prime lol
What if there was fuel in the rail and the pump was good. That's my problem rn :/
It is becoming more and more difficult to answer questions here. I have 80,000 people asking me for help now. So I have created a forum to help you guys better. It is free to join and we can exchange pictures, wiring diagrams and waveforms if needed to help guide you through the process of troubleshooting your vehicle. Thank you so much! Hope to see you there.
Paul Danner (ScannerDanner)
www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
I found the problem. Its a jeep..
HA HA HA
You would be wrong.
I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee runs like a champ we have owned it since new he's been well maintained leaks oil but other hen that nothing wrong with Ac even works no rust on it but in not I. The salt belt. 172,000 just normal things have needed to be done like ball joints radiator some recalls new hoses still has the factory fuel pump I been running medium grade fuel threw it coolant has been changed.just went in for tranny fluid and filter change still had the oem computer just had new champion spark plugs put in runs great I get about 17 mpg highway and bout 12-14 city depending on how I drive so far nothing major I also had a 98 jeep grand loved it it looked brand new was in great shape 180 k then it got wrecked
All these videos be like....here is how you do this at home....first break out your 1000 dollar tool....understand youre doing this to make people understand what to look for and thats great butyou got some nice tools there bud that make things easy. Cant DO anything you do we all have to pay someone for this lol
I'm teaching to technicians my friend. But with some interest and determination, I can teach you too. Even with minimal tools, you'll learn where the weaknesses are but be able to utilize them better
@@ScannerDanner I get it. Trust me still watched your video and still take the advice. Just saying. Preciate what you do no matter what I say
@@ScannerDanner I have a 96 Eclipse GST fresh rebuild. Got compression. Power. Spark. Fuel flowing through the rail. But zero on fuel pressure tester. Mine is a gauge that hooks to the banjo on the fuel filter. Can’t figure it out for the life of me.
@@slumedia205 do you have a good power and ground at the pump?
@@ScannerDanner no reason to think I don’t have good power. Battery tests good, full power throughout the car, cranks like a brand new motor…ground at the pump should be good, 2 connectors and 2 lines…just plugged them in and replaced the pump with a new one. Looked exactly the same as my old one.
Spent 300$ and wasted a entire day to end up noticing my dog ate my wires to the fuel pump
usually it is mice
Hey man, love this video, but not sure it's going to help me. Can you check my channel and see if anything jumps at you regarding my jeep problem? I have intermittent stalling and can't figure out where to problem lies. I'm trying to capture live data, but I don't even know what to do with it once it's captured. Or which data might be worth capturing. Please help!
it aint got no gas in it!
not 100% but I think the power probe will only light up or beeb when u have the same voltage as the battery to let u know of bad ground or bad wiring. (reference voltage) also will the Jeep fuel pump be powered with just ignition? cheers dude
I have a 1989 jeep cherokee and the pump turns on but it's not getting to the motor what so I do? What should I look for?