Nah pro tip discard all the controlled angle stuff and free hand then youll be able to sharpen your knives on any abrasive surface making you unstoppable 😂
I came home from work one day, when my mom was visiting, and I saw her scraping the weeds from between the sidewalk with one of my good knives. I had a flash back when you were scraping that knife on the concrete. Thanks for the memories.👍
The fastest way to dull a knife is to give to a non knife person. I sharpened my moms kitchen knifes a few days ago and it took ages from rolls to chips it was horrible that is why my knifes stay with me. -sorry for your loss
Just wanted to say thank you, I used this video to sharpen my first knife this afternoon and wow. This is an old knife my father gave to me about 15 years ago and was never in good condition and I damaged it to what I thought was beyond repair trying to sharpen it. But using the Lansky just how you showed it’s razor sharp now, it couldn’t cut open plastic bags before and now it glides through paper. Thanks so much.
Hello all. I am an "Old-fart", retired now. I sharpened knives for a bit over 48 years. People say I know a thing-or-two about making an edged device - cut. Our young feller here has the belief, as a lot do, that it makes no matter if you stroke in just one direction, as though you are cutting INTO the 'stone', like trying to whittle a piece of wood, or if you just go back-and-forth, sawing away in both directions. Hmm_ well it DOES make a difference, but normally only towards the latter parts of the function of getting that really FINE edge. See, during the COARSE and MEDIUM stages, you are really defining the SHAPING process. It's when you get to the FINE, EXTRA FINE and then the STROPPING that a body should start listening to the "Old-farts" regarding how to stroke. Which is ALWAYS CUTTING INWARD, prior to stropping with leather. When you are happy with the 1000, 2000. 5000 or maybe even 10,000 grit process, and then you go to THE STROP, you NEVER cut inward. You ALWAYS pull or push with the edge TRAILING. But the up-loader already knows this... RIGHT provider? Regarding the WHITE stropping compound he is using here, that is ALMOST the most course, BLACK being the lowest grit rating, followed by BROWN... USUALLY. Normally it goes something like: BLACK - BROWN - WHITE - GREEN - RED (mostly polishing, not much 'cutting'!). There is a usually BLUE compound, which might be a different color, that is only used if you want CRAZY sharp. Oh, if you are wondering what the 'grit' of the colors are...? Good luck finding out. All these years I have NEVER been able to get a straight answer. See, there are TONS of companies out in the world that make these 'colored' abrasives, and just like gasoline companies making the fuel that goes into engines, they ALL have their "SECRET FORMULA" for the color being made. To make matters more confusing, the USA uses the familiar 'grit' system, while pretty-much everywhere else they use the MICRON measurement system. Huh?!? MICRON? What's a MICRON? lol But the main thing to know is that most always the color is what's important - kind of universal now-a-days. So just remember it's BLACK - BROWN - WHITE - GREEN - RED - BLUE. Most times we just stop at RED. I have used the 'Lansky' system for many moons, but what I now do, instead of buying a new stone, is just purchase good quality wet/dry sandpaper and cut the correct size for the 'stones, and glue to the back side using a good RELEASE type of spry adhesive, such as from "3M" or such. The paper is a lot cheaper to use, and when it wears out, just peel off and replace. Just make sure the paper is FLAT on the surface, and always use water. Dip your finger in water and glide over the paper, then get with the stroking. I tend to use 80-100, then 300-500, then 800-1000 grits. Finally, I will maybe use 3000 to 5000 grit, finishing-up with the strop and the RED or BLUE compound. You know, I really have NO CLUE if the stropping is needed, but I sort of go into a ZEN frame of mind and feel better afterwards. Go figure. For all I know for SURE, that 10,000 grit sandpaper may be MUCH finer than even the BLUE compound. I THINK newspaper is around 50,000 grit. Tried it twice, but MAN is it slow!!! lol Oh, don't use the comics; ONLY the black text. The text (ink) is what does the sharpening, not-so-much the paper. Regarding stropping, you really are not SHARPENING as the general thought goes as to what that means, which is REMOVING the metal, but we are addressing rather the microscopic level of just re-aligning the ALREADY SHARP metal edge. You know that CHEF'S STEEL we sometimes see someone just going to town with that back-and-forth of the knife being pulled LEFT and then RIGHT and back and forth, back and forth...? The person is doing the same as stropping with a leather strap; re-aligning the edge, not taking off metal. Well, IF he or she is doing things correctly.
Michel Gaudet if white compound is most course why does it go black brown white ect ect . Sorry I found your comment confusing to understand. Not sure if it was to teach us how to do it right or telling him how he’s not doing it right with a little info on what’s right. Be great to learn from old farts but some don’t seem they don’t care to explain it in a way us young farts can understand. Do you have any videos sharpening I’d really like to see some and learn from an old fart who has seen more edges on many different kinds of metal that I’d probably never get to see. Have a great day
LOL! Hello there, young-fart! :-) Sorry, no videos from me. But there are TONS on You Tube. Just search and choose. And I bet there are more than just a few who will be more than happy to give you feedback. But I'll tell you this_ avoid anyone who tries telling you it makes NO matter how you STROKE the blade. It really should always be like you are trying to cut into the stone, except when there is mega shaping to do first. And try to to find someone who will be explaining about the 'wire' edge that develops, what its all about and how to deal with it. I went on my little tirade only to SORT of point out that if he was trying to get to the SHARPEST result, he should have been using either GREEN or RED for stropping (most folks are not aware of the BLUE compound), not the WHITE compound. For what it's worth, most times it is the RED compound that most people end with, not the BLUE. I re-read my post and don't find where I say BROWN is the most abrasive, but I feel I was clear stating most abrasive to least is BLACK, BROWN, WHITE, GREEN, RED and finally BLUE. Just keep in mind it is not a 100% universally accepted fact. Also keep in mind that the colors are not exactly standard world-wide, but getting there. There are a few other colors that are made, and they fall SOMEWHERE in the middle, USUALLY, between the WHITE and the BLUE. I am not sure, but I do not think there is generally available a finer 'grit' than the BLUE, but I may be wrong. FYI_ You used the incorrect spelling for 'coarse'. You spelled 'course', which is the direction a map might provide you to travel. Keep your blades sharp, and your mind clear when using them! @@caseG80
In assie and New Zealand that brand of buffing stick the white one is actually the only one that does stainless steals ect probably not the same as wot you old farts use in America I am guessing and it is great for polishing knives every one has there way I spose still good advise just not on the compound
From what I can tell the white compound makes what I like to think of as a cloudy mirror finish, you can clearly see things with it and read reflected newsprint with ease but it seems to be just off from being perfect to the naked eye, a level that's is better than my black Arkansas and pretty darn good.
You mentioned the bit about the angle being measured at the bottom of the slot vs. the top. That is a correct observation. When I use my set, I loop my thumb up over the tail end of the rod where it protrudes through the slot and lightly hold the rod down against the bottom edge of the guide slot. This will maintain the exact angle and not allow the rod to rock back and forth between the upper and lower edges of the guide slot.
Thanks for uploading this. I've been using the Lansky for right around a year and I'm always surprised at the different ways people use it to get great results. One point on the stones in your video - unless they've changed something recently the first blue stone you use isn't ceramic. It's the 600 fine grit from the basic sharpening set. It's the same grit as the stone you used previous to that one - the 600 grit fine diamond stone.
Thank you! I’ve been doing it all wrong. I take long swipes the length of the blade and I noticed that the heel of my blade are unsharpened about the width of the stones. It’s because the way I did it, the stone wasn’t moving against that portion of the edge. Now I know how to do it correctly. Thank you again! 😊
I do a mixture of both. I do small strokes like Pete but at an angle. I seem to get an even bevel but am able to shorten my sharpening time alot more then long strokes.
bravo! thanks for sacrificing your lawman. been using the diamond lansky since i can remember, and although a little awkward for my old hands, it'll get the job done. still thinking about a basic kme with a couple of diamond stones for a little easier time....
I never see anybody do or mention this. The first thing that should be done before sharpening is clean the stones. Never once seen a video display this...
@@dbi69 Soap & water. You're just cleaning out the minute shavings that get trapped in the stone pores. It makes them much more effective when clean. Then you oil them back up.
yup, tool and dye makers aLwAyS oil stone every time...provides a way for minute steel to wash out of the way and PREVENT gumming into stones and hiding their lovely sharp bits. Use your toothbrush and oil to clean stones. ps: better than companies official video
@@dbi69 one drop of oil on the stone, rub it around with your finger, it will instantly bring the metal shavings up to the top, use a cloth to wipe off of the stones.
New to your site my friend. Love the tutorials. Just ordered the lansky system and I'm looking forward to using it soon. I think with the help of your videos it will definitely have me off any running when it arrives. I love the material, keep up the good work and stay sharp, your friend from Arkansas, USA.......HT
i clamp the sharpening stone in a small table vise and use sharpening system the way i use whet stones. also keep two parts of the clamp parallel if you care about degrees
Why do you go back and forth with the stone on the blade? Every sharpening video I have seen, including the Lansky company video, instructs you to move the blade in one direction on the stone (or vice versa).
I usually don't like music in the videos as it is distracting. But I appreciated the music when you ran that mail on the concrete. I go the chills with that concrete scaping - worse than fingers on a chalboard.
I always save my metal knife sharpening bits to sprinkle on me fish and chips for extra flavor. Yum! :) Great review and excellent instruction, thanks mate from across the pond. 🇺🇸 🇬🇧 🇮🇪 I subbed.
A tip regarding use of files that might apply here with the stones is to try to use the whole length of the file so you don't prematurely wear out the middle section. That way you get the longest service life from the tool. I guess it might be slow and awkward to try and do that with the wobbly jig and sharp edge next to your fingers, safer and quicker just to use the middle part?
I just saw a tutorial where someone replaced the thumb screws on the hones with an Allen screw/grub screw-- that way the thumb screw isn't protruding from the end of the hone/stone and hitting the clamp, stopping the full length of the stone from being used. Looks worth a shot.
Very informative video..I'm an inner city guy and my knives never really get dull.. Only so much to cut..The Sharpmaker has probably worked to touch up 12 out of 15 knives..A few probably had a greater angle then the 40 deg setting.. A lot of sharpening still eludes and confuses me....This was helpful... Thanks....
Thanks for the video. I use a lansky kit and my procedure is mostly the same. I want to mention that when you buy a new kit the guide bars must sometimes be bent so that they extend straight from the end since the bend that clamps into the stone is not always 90°. After the first time you won't have to do it again.
Just bought mine off amazon. Sharpened up my everyday knife to able to shave arm hair in about 10 minutes. I need the leather strop then i have enough knives around the garage to keep me busy for a few years. Haha.
I wish this video was out about a year ago when I bought my lansky. I mean it is basic but any tips do help. I do the circular motions when honing the blade and use a freehand strop. I do most of my edges at 25 or 20 degrees and just strop it at the end of the day. Seems to stay sharper longer that way for me. Great informative video!!!
great video man hey so i can put a pretty ok edge on a blade with a combo wet stone but due to health issues my hands are getting pretty shaky and im noticing it in my edges now do you think the lanksy would help me or would it still suffer from my shaking hands?
Yeah If it were me I'd be doing a 25 or even 30 if it's heavy duty use to at least make it last somewhat long before I need to sharpen it again. I'm assuming he needs it really sharp for skme reason or another who knows lol
@@nicseybold1808 I run 20 degrees on any knife, regardless of the intended use, or steel. It's a good functional, all-around angle, and I just find it easier to do the same angle on all my knives rather than worrying about different angles for each knife.
Great video as I just bought the Lansky 4-Stone Deluxe Diamond System with additional 1000grit yellow diamond. I also have the Lionsteel M4 which I measured ~22deg secondary bevel and thinking if the 20deg marked on the lansky bracket is close enough? Cheers
hi have a couple questions I just got the lansky delux system the normal one and I have the cold steel recon 1 clip point and I the stand which is dangerious but how many passes do I need to do it can't even cut paper at this point ?
Thanks my Brother from the land down unda for this very cool tutorial. Learned a lot as usual from your vids. I guess I’m gonna have to stop giving myself blade Indian brush burns on my arm now! Darn! 🔪😷🇮🇪🇺🇸
Dude this is insane, I was just whistling the Balamb Garden theme to myself. Not even played the game for years then randomly click on this video to hear the same theme. Weird coincedence,
what about Tsuboman Atoma Economic with plastic base ,can you use them like normal stones someone used them? a lot cheaper they fit my budget. 600 and 1200
@Cedric & Ada Gear and Outdoors what do you think about using this system for Kershaw Knockout, or any other knives that don't have flat portions to clamp on?
Hi Pete, I have used the Lansky system for over 15 years and I love it. I make a small drawing in a notebook that I keep with the system. I draw a sketch of where I place the clamp on the blade and the angle degree used. It's very important to place the clamp in the same position when you re-sharpen the blade. If the clamp is in a different position, it will change the edge angle a little. Also, use the stones to "cut" going toward the edge and never pull the stone "down" the edge. Pulling the stone "down / away" from the edge can cause the edge to roll down.
Howard green Along with the “dead leg”, I learnt these ancient arts in 1970, lol. That was about the time an usurper creeped in, the “Sweeney”, a quick punch to the stomach, swiftly followed by a knee in the face, as the head comes down. Oh, the joys of innocent childhood! These, I must add, were meted out to me, rather than me being the aggressor, me being a gentle soul.
Hold on im a little confused you said measuring from the top of the angle guide holes gave you around 15, but from the bottom its 17? shouldn't be something between 17-20 ?
I can't believe lansky made the new system with no rubber in the clamps. Can you believe that? And of course if you tape it it tends to slide around and not want to stay put very easy. I have a kme now and do free hand but I have a brand new lansky in the box that I am giving to my brother in law to get him into it and so I he can sharpen his own knives for a change! Lol
Now that I've watched it I'm pleased. I might not bother making a leather strop "stone", but just use the seperate strop. Plus would like to try a ceramic rod and even a diamond coated bar for taking afield. I want a toothy edge giving diamond coated rod.
Using the same sharpener I noticed with my knives small slivers of metal still on the knife after sharpening it does anybody know how to get rid of these I don't want them to get in the food.
7:40 Doing fetch quests for villagers. Killing a few rats with your wooden sword. Trying to get the xp up past lvl 1. 11:34 The burly guard at the gate out of town recognizes that you have grown strong enough not to be rendered to paste by the enemies in the introductory area of the world map. Slimes and lesser zombies beware! 13:03 You come across a caravan of nomadic tribesmen. The their leader laments that his only daughter has been captured by the foul dragon residing in the mountains to the east. If only there was a hero brave enough to help.
I'm watching at work... And skipped ahead a few times, so I might have missed it... But did you ever mention how long you actually spent on that blade? Curious how long it took you to bring it back to sharp.
DJ KlepKlep if youndont wanna spend too much more, get the medium diamond (can do most reprofiling work) and the extrafine hone and use a homemade strop and compounds
On the Josco polishing compound, or as you called it “cutting compound”. Is that mainly an Aussie product? I found their website with a .au located down under apparently. I also found a Josco demo video with the same white brick you were using. And the Josco said the white compound is for aluminum. And there seems to be different color compounds for different metals. Can you elaborate on this a bit? And why rough up the leather strop? And what were u using to rough it up? Standard blade on you Swiss Army? Thanks Mate.
Hi! I tried sharpening my Buck 110 with a lansky with the second (20 degrees) setting. And the bevel got much higher near the tip (as expected). Is that just something to live with, please?
What type of compound do you use on the lansky strop? I ordered some cheap green stuff from EBay... will that do or is there a better type I should be using?
3 years later I'll give you my reply. Lol. Any metal polishing rouge is going to be considerably smoother than even a ceramic stone. I do a lot of metal refinishing and use grey for cutting, then white, then green. Sometimes I don't even use green as white will give a good polish but green is considered to be the final polish for stainless.
A interesting test for you to try... right now your making the micro serrations go vertical with the edge. Not a bad thing at all. But Have you ever tried putting them from the Heel of the blade, going towards the tip? I know you do allot of rope cutting. Doing that would give you more aggression when doing a cut pulling back toward yourself. Your way is fine still. It’s when your pushing the stone from the tip to the heel, that’s when the serrations are going the wrong way for most thing. Not that may ppl cut something by putting the tip on something then pushing to the heel.
I treat this as a handheld system. I hold the stone in one hand and the knife in the other, and basically act like it's a pocket stone with an angle guide (if that makes sense).
Pro tip on the lansky, put some electrical tape on the inside of the clamps. really helps secure the knives and as a bonus, protect the coatings
I use paper, it really grips and when compressed and slip around on adhesive residue.
@Prussian Blue you can leave the tape on the clamp all the time instead of reapplying it to the blade every time you sharpen it
Nah pro tip discard all the controlled angle stuff and free hand then youll be able to sharpen your knives on any abrasive surface making you unstoppable 😂
Nice one mate. Thanks.
@@williamspetter2823 way ahead of you. I just skiff skiff my knives on the pavement outside my house.
I came home from work one day, when my mom was visiting, and I saw her scraping the weeds from between the sidewalk with one of my good knives. I had a flash back when you were scraping that knife on the concrete. Thanks for the memories.👍
The fastest way to dull a knife is to give to a non knife person. I sharpened my moms kitchen knifes a few days ago and it took ages from rolls to chips it was horrible that is why my knifes stay with me.
-sorry for your loss
Just wanted to say thank you, I used this video to sharpen my first knife this afternoon and wow. This is an old knife my father gave to me about 15 years ago and was never in good condition and I damaged it to what I thought was beyond repair trying to sharpen it. But using the Lansky just how you showed it’s razor sharp now, it couldn’t cut open plastic bags before and now it glides through paper. Thanks so much.
A hunk of steel can last a very long time; it's definitely something we're not used to in our "spend $300 and throw it away in a year." society haha.
Great tutorial. The music makes me feel like I'm waiting in a line at Universal Studios.
I thought of Epcot. 😂
its music from the final fantasy series lol
Hello all. I am an "Old-fart", retired now. I sharpened knives for a bit over 48 years. People say I know a thing-or-two about making an edged device - cut.
Our young feller here has the belief, as a lot do, that it makes no matter if you stroke in just one direction, as though you are cutting INTO the 'stone', like trying to whittle a piece of wood, or if you just go back-and-forth, sawing away in both directions. Hmm_ well it DOES make a difference, but normally only towards the latter parts of the function of getting that really FINE edge. See, during the COARSE and MEDIUM stages, you are really defining the SHAPING process. It's when you get to the FINE, EXTRA FINE and then the STROPPING that a body should start listening to the "Old-farts" regarding how to stroke. Which is ALWAYS CUTTING INWARD, prior to stropping with leather. When you are happy with the 1000, 2000. 5000 or maybe even 10,000 grit process, and then you go to THE STROP, you NEVER cut inward. You ALWAYS pull or push with the edge TRAILING. But the up-loader already knows this... RIGHT provider?
Regarding the WHITE stropping compound he is using here, that is ALMOST the most course, BLACK being the lowest grit rating, followed by BROWN... USUALLY. Normally it goes something like: BLACK - BROWN - WHITE - GREEN - RED (mostly polishing, not much 'cutting'!). There is a usually BLUE compound, which might be a different color, that is only used if you want CRAZY sharp. Oh, if you are wondering what the 'grit' of the colors are...? Good luck finding out. All these years I have NEVER been able to get a straight answer. See, there are TONS of companies out in the world that make these 'colored' abrasives, and just like gasoline companies making the fuel that goes into engines, they ALL have their "SECRET FORMULA" for the color being made. To make matters more confusing, the USA uses the familiar 'grit' system, while pretty-much everywhere else they use the MICRON measurement system. Huh?!? MICRON? What's a MICRON? lol But the main thing to know is that most always the color is what's important - kind of universal now-a-days. So just remember it's BLACK - BROWN - WHITE - GREEN - RED - BLUE. Most times we just stop at RED.
I have used the 'Lansky' system for many moons, but what I now do, instead of buying a new stone, is just purchase good quality wet/dry sandpaper and cut the correct size for the 'stones, and glue to the back side using a good RELEASE type of spry adhesive, such as from "3M" or such. The paper is a lot cheaper to use, and when it wears out, just peel off and replace. Just make sure the paper is FLAT on the surface, and always use water. Dip your finger in water and glide over the paper, then get with the stroking. I tend to use 80-100, then 300-500, then 800-1000 grits. Finally, I will maybe use 3000 to 5000 grit, finishing-up with the strop and the RED or BLUE compound. You know, I really have NO CLUE if the stropping is needed, but I sort of go into a ZEN frame of mind and feel better afterwards. Go figure. For all I know for SURE, that 10,000 grit sandpaper may be MUCH finer than even the BLUE compound. I THINK newspaper is around 50,000 grit. Tried it twice, but MAN is it slow!!! lol Oh, don't use the comics; ONLY the black text. The text (ink) is what does the sharpening, not-so-much the paper.
Regarding stropping, you really are not SHARPENING as the general thought goes as to what that means, which is REMOVING the metal, but we are addressing rather the microscopic level of just re-aligning the ALREADY SHARP metal edge. You know that CHEF'S STEEL we sometimes see someone just going to town with that back-and-forth of the knife being pulled LEFT and then RIGHT and back and forth, back and forth...? The person is doing the same as stropping with a leather strap; re-aligning the edge, not taking off metal. Well, IF he or she is doing things correctly.
Michel Gaudet if white compound is most course why does it go black brown white ect ect . Sorry I found your comment confusing to understand. Not sure if it was to teach us how to do it right or telling him how he’s not doing it right with a little info on what’s right. Be great to learn from old farts but some don’t seem they don’t care to explain it in a way us young farts can understand. Do you have any videos sharpening I’d really like to see some and learn from an old fart who has seen more edges on many different kinds of metal that I’d probably never get to see. Have a great day
LOL! Hello there, young-fart! :-)
Sorry, no videos from me. But there are TONS on You Tube. Just search and choose. And I bet there are more than just a few who will be more than happy to give you feedback. But I'll tell you this_ avoid anyone who tries telling you it makes NO matter how you STROKE the blade. It really should always be like you are trying to cut into the stone, except when there is mega shaping to do first. And try to to find someone who will be explaining about the 'wire' edge that develops, what its all about and how to deal with it.
I went on my little tirade only to SORT of point out that if he was trying to get to the SHARPEST result, he should have been using either GREEN or RED for stropping (most folks are not aware of the BLUE compound), not the WHITE compound. For what it's worth, most times it is the RED compound that most people end with, not the BLUE. I re-read my post and don't find where I say BROWN is the most abrasive, but I feel I was clear stating most abrasive to least is BLACK, BROWN, WHITE, GREEN, RED and finally BLUE. Just keep in mind it is not a 100% universally accepted fact. Also keep in mind that the colors are not exactly standard world-wide, but getting there. There are a few other colors that are made, and they fall SOMEWHERE in the middle, USUALLY, between the WHITE and the BLUE. I am not sure, but I do not think there is generally available a finer 'grit' than the BLUE, but I may be wrong.
FYI_ You used the incorrect spelling for 'coarse'. You spelled 'course', which is the direction a map might provide you to travel.
Keep your blades sharp, and your mind clear when using them! @@caseG80
In assie and New Zealand that brand of buffing stick the white one is actually the only one that does stainless steals ect probably not the same as wot you old farts use in America I am guessing and it is great for polishing knives every one has there way I spose still good advise just not on the compound
Wow, an actual intelligent and well put together comment on UA-cam, you do not see that often.
From what I can tell the white compound makes what I like to think of as a cloudy mirror finish, you can clearly see things with it and read reflected newsprint with ease but it seems to be just off from being perfect to the naked eye, a level that's is better than my black Arkansas and pretty darn good.
CTS XHP cut test on concrete....0 cuts
You mentioned the bit about the angle being measured at the bottom of the slot vs. the top. That is a correct observation. When I use my set, I loop my thumb up over the tail end of the rod where it protrudes through the slot and lightly hold the rod down against the bottom edge of the guide slot. This will maintain the exact angle and not allow the rod to rock back and forth between the upper and lower edges of the guide slot.
Every time you ran that blade over the concrete a ninja killed a puppy.....
Josh Johnson hmmmm I wonder which ninja did that....
Hahaha! Nice
@@disninja8285 the Mall Ninja 😱
😂😂
@@disninja8285 ninjas... Doing God's work.
You can clean the ceramic stones with an eraser.
Normally, using a drop or 2 of oil when you’re done in those stones, is plenty enough.
Dawn & Water works great
Pencil eraser cleans your ceramics and strops really fast chuck a couple in your kit and give it a go
very cool tip thanks!
So do Mr.Clean magic erasers
hahaha the sad music when you dulled the knife was perfect
Thanks for uploading this. I've been using the Lansky for right around a year and I'm always surprised at the different ways people use it to get great results. One point on the stones in your video - unless they've changed something recently the first blue stone you use isn't ceramic. It's the 600 fine grit from the basic sharpening set. It's the same grit as the stone you used previous to that one - the 600 grit fine diamond stone.
1:12 Nooooo!
Watching him do that made me cringe so hard.
I just bought that diamond coarse hone for my Lansky, along with the famous sapphire stone. Gonna get started as soon as I stop procrastinating!
Thanks so much, helped me get my knife in touch from being battered and abused for several years!
Thank you! I’ve been doing it all wrong. I take long swipes the length of the blade and I noticed that the heel of my blade are unsharpened about the width of the stones. It’s because the way I did it, the stone wasn’t moving against that portion of the edge. Now I know how to do it correctly. Thank you again! 😊
the dulling process made me want to die
Lol That's dramatic but yeah
I’m a lawyer and I can tell you there is a law against doing that to a good knife.!
It was a hate crime
His way works well enough for sure, but I've found that long full strokes give you better results because you get a more even bevel and edge.
I do a mixture of both. I do small strokes like Pete but at an angle. I seem to get an even bevel but am able to shorten my sharpening time alot more then long strokes.
bravo! thanks for sacrificing your lawman. been using the diamond lansky since i can remember, and although a little awkward for my old hands, it'll get the job done. still thinking about a basic kme with a couple of diamond stones for a little easier time....
Bubby, you need to clean those poor ceramic stones. The honing oil is for lifting and cleaning debris. It will sharpen much easier.
I never see anybody do or mention this.
The first thing that should be done before sharpening is clean the stones.
Never once seen a video display this...
how does one clean the stones?
@@dbi69 Soap & water.
You're just cleaning out the minute shavings that get trapped in the stone pores.
It makes them much more effective when clean. Then you oil them back up.
yup, tool and dye makers aLwAyS oil stone every time...provides a way for minute steel to wash out of the way and PREVENT gumming into stones and hiding their lovely sharp bits. Use your toothbrush and oil to clean stones.
ps: better than companies official video
@@dbi69 one drop of oil on the stone, rub it around with your finger, it will instantly bring the metal shavings up to the top, use a cloth to wipe off of the stones.
New to your site my friend. Love the tutorials. Just ordered the lansky system and I'm looking forward to using it soon. I think with the help of your videos it will definitely have me off any running when it arrives. I love the material, keep up the good work and stay sharp, your friend from Arkansas, USA.......HT
Exactly how I do it! This system rocks! God bless! I always finish with a 2 level leather strop!
i clamp the sharpening stone in a small table vise and use sharpening system the way i use whet stones. also keep two parts of the clamp parallel if you care about degrees
Why do you go back and forth with the stone on the blade? Every sharpening video I have seen, including the Lansky company video, instructs you to move the blade in one direction on the stone (or vice versa).
I usually don't like music in the videos as it is distracting. But I appreciated the music when you ran that mail on the concrete. I go the chills with that concrete scaping - worse than fingers on a chalboard.
I always save my metal knife sharpening bits to sprinkle on me fish and chips for extra flavor. Yum! :) Great review and excellent instruction, thanks mate from across the pond. 🇺🇸 🇬🇧 🇮🇪 I subbed.
A tip regarding use of files that might apply here with the stones is to try to use the whole length of the file so you don't prematurely wear out the middle section. That way you get the longest service life from the tool. I guess it might be slow and awkward to try and do that with the wobbly jig and sharp edge next to your fingers, safer and quicker just to use the middle part?
I just saw a tutorial where someone replaced the thumb screws on the hones with an Allen screw/grub screw-- that way the thumb screw isn't protruding from the end of the hone/stone and hitting the clamp, stopping the full length of the stone from being used. Looks worth a shot.
Very informative video..I'm an inner city guy and my knives never really get dull.. Only so much to cut..The Sharpmaker has probably worked to touch up 12 out of 15 knives..A few probably had a greater angle then the 40 deg setting.. A lot of sharpening still eludes and confuses me....This was helpful... Thanks....
this is the best place to start, and may be the place to stop too, depending on the severity of the knife sickness!
Nice touch with the background music. Cosmo Canyon from FFVII is a great composition.
Thanks for the video. I use a lansky kit and my procedure is mostly the same. I want to mention that when you buy a new kit the guide bars must sometimes be bent so that they extend straight from the end since the bend that clamps into the stone is not always 90°. After the first time you won't have to do it again.
I applied a few things that you have shown and my results have been getting better thank you
10:50 Final Fantasy VII Cosmo Canyon song playing in the background!?
Just bought a Lansky, so watched this for a refresher! Thanks 😃
Just bought mine off amazon. Sharpened up my everyday knife to able to shave arm hair in about 10 minutes. I need the leather strop then i have enough knives around the garage to keep me busy for a few years. Haha.
ayyyy. Nice tutorial and nice FF9 music on your time lapse. (and FF12)
I wish this video was out about a year ago when I bought my lansky. I mean it is basic but any tips do help. I do the circular motions when honing the blade and use a freehand strop. I do most of my edges at 25 or 20 degrees and just strop it at the end of the day. Seems to stay sharper longer that way for me. Great informative video!!!
You strop at the end of the day? What about honing steel?
Liked, saved and subbed. Just what I needed, and music was a nice bonus. Great video.
great video man hey so i can put a pretty ok edge on a blade with a combo wet stone but due to health issues my hands are getting pretty shaky and im noticing it in my edges now do you think the lanksy would help me or would it still suffer from my shaking hands?
Nicely done. I've got same kit. Haven't been able to get anything sharp yet. I've a lot to learn before attempting to sharpen my microtechs.
If you put your left hand up a bit with your finger over the rod you can stabilize the sliding in the oval rod guide hole.
Very good video mate. One of the best I have seen on the Lansky System.
I'm thrown that your sharpening a big knife like that on a 17 degree angle and not a higher angle like the 20 or 25.
Yeah If it were me I'd be doing a 25 or even 30 if it's heavy duty use to at least make it last somewhat long before I need to sharpen it again. I'm assuming he needs it really sharp for skme reason or another who knows lol
XHP can go well below 17 and still have a really stable edge.
Thats one of the easily noticeable benefits of all the super steels available to us...
@@nicseybold1808 I run 20 degrees on any knife, regardless of the intended use, or steel. It's a good functional, all-around angle, and I just find it easier to do the same angle on all my knives rather than worrying about different angles for each knife.
Love the final fantasy music you put in your videos 😃
How would you put a spyderco PM2 on this there is very little flat spot
hi...can this sharpen fish hooks and scissors? thx u!
Great video as I just bought the Lansky 4-Stone Deluxe Diamond System with additional 1000grit yellow diamond.
I also have the Lionsteel M4 which I measured ~22deg secondary bevel and thinking if the 20deg marked on the lansky bracket is close enough?
Cheers
Just got one of these and trying to get the hang of it.
Do those stones still work as they did when they were new? Do you need to clean or flatten them ever?
While I’m watching this video I found a chocobo somehow 😂
Choco Billy
"You got yourself a new Chocobo!"
Does Nobuo Uematsu know that his music has been pilfered?
I was about to change channels... but then the music! ....The music started! WOW!
Final fantasy 9 theme music. Awesome!
Great and informative video. Thank you.
Nice technique and awesome music.
hi have a couple questions I just got the lansky delux system the normal one and I have the cold steel recon 1 clip point and I the stand which is dangerious but how many passes do I need to do it can't even cut paper at this point ?
shawn simon - idk. Make a few passes and try. Upon failing, repeat. 🙂
Thanks my Brother from the land down unda for this very cool tutorial. Learned a lot as usual from your vids. I guess I’m gonna have to stop giving myself blade Indian brush burns on my arm now! Darn! 🔪😷🇮🇪🇺🇸
Dude this is insane, I was just whistling the Balamb Garden theme to myself. Not even played the game for years then randomly click on this video to hear the same theme. Weird coincedence,
what about Tsuboman Atoma Economic with plastic base ,can you use them like normal stones someone used them? a lot cheaper they fit my budget. 600 and 1200
@Cedric & Ada Gear and Outdoors what do you think about using this system for Kershaw Knockout, or any other knives that don't have flat portions to clamp on?
Hi Pete, I have used the Lansky system for over 15 years and I love it. I make a small drawing in a notebook that I keep with the system. I draw a sketch of where I place the clamp on the blade and the angle degree used. It's very important to place the clamp in the same position when you re-sharpen the blade. If the clamp is in a different position, it will change the edge angle a little. Also, use the stones to "cut" going toward the edge and never pull the stone "down" the edge. Pulling the stone "down / away" from the edge can cause the edge to roll down.
Good idea with the notebook, i take a photo of the knife in the clamp with my phone for next time
Consistency is the secret to the Lansky system.
You have inspired me to buy a lansky system. I can get an okay edge on my norton stone but this seems way easier.
Ah the old Chinese arm burn stalking the playground since 1954
Howard green Along with the “dead leg”, I learnt these ancient arts in 1970, lol. That was about the time an usurper creeped in, the “Sweeney”, a quick punch to the stomach, swiftly followed by a knee in the face, as the head comes down. Oh, the joys of innocent childhood! These, I must add, were meted out to me, rather than me being the aggressor, me being a gentle soul.
RACIST LOL The arm burn followed by knuckles on the top of the head.
I was always told it was an 'Indian' burn
Hold on im a little confused you said measuring from the top of the angle guide holes gave you around 15, but from the bottom its 17? shouldn't be something between 17-20 ?
I can't believe lansky made the new system with no rubber in the clamps. Can you believe that? And of course if you tape it it tends to slide around and not want to stay put very easy. I have a kme now and do free hand but I have a brand new lansky in the box that I am giving to my brother in law to get him into it and so I he can sharpen his own knives for a change! Lol
does the lansky strop come with the polish already on it ?
No it doesn't. Don't know if you still care though haha
Nice, full A to Z tutorial. Thks again
Now that I've watched it I'm pleased. I might not bother making a leather strop "stone", but just use the seperate strop. Plus would like to try a ceramic rod and even a diamond coated bar for taking afield. I want a toothy edge giving diamond coated rod.
Using the same sharpener I noticed with my knives small slivers of metal still on the knife after sharpening it does anybody know how to get rid of these I don't want them to get in the food.
Thats what the strop is for. It should completely remove or get very close to removing all of it
7:40 Doing fetch quests for villagers. Killing a few rats with your wooden sword. Trying to get the xp up past lvl 1.
11:34 The burly guard at the gate out of town recognizes that you have grown strong enough not to be rendered to paste by the enemies in the introductory area of the world map. Slimes and lesser zombies beware!
13:03 You come across a caravan of nomadic tribesmen. The their leader laments that his only daughter has been captured by the foul dragon residing in the mountains to the east. If only there was a hero brave enough to help.
What if there is no flat spot to in the clamp?I have a fiest and it is pretty round on the spine and the rubber pads keep slipping out of the clamp.
I'm watching at work... And skipped ahead a few times, so I might have missed it... But did you ever mention how long you actually spent on that blade? Curious how long it took you to bring it back to sharp.
2 questions. Do you spend the same amount of time for each stone? How long would this take without interruptions and explanations?
Sapphire is 2000 grit, not 3000.
Does this system work ok with FFG spydercos or is the clamp no good for keeping it at a good angle?
Is one daughter bath the average amount of time it takes to bring a factory edge back?
Love the golden retriever in the background
When he did the concrete "I'mma kill my knife now" I about died inside
Should I get the basic lansky kit with 2strops with coarse and fine compound. Or ditch the strops and buy the extra fine 2000grid hone?
DJ KlepKlep if youndont wanna spend too much more, get the medium diamond (can do most reprofiling work) and the extrafine hone and use a homemade strop and compounds
What's your favorite sharpening system regardless of price? Also what you find works best to maintaining a razor sharp edge? Jean strop, leather?
Can you just use the ceramics for steels like zdp . The ones that come in the set?
Lansky Diamond set vs Work Sharp Elite which one is better? The price is almost the same.
Im Super New to this System are you grinding on the blade with the Up and Down Stroke each time Correct ??? Thanks in Advance
On the Josco polishing compound, or as you called it “cutting compound”. Is that mainly an Aussie product? I found their website with a .au located down under apparently. I also found a Josco demo video with the same white brick you were using. And the Josco said the white compound is for aluminum. And there seems to be different color compounds for different metals. Can you elaborate on this a bit? And why rough up the leather strop? And what were u using to rough it up? Standard blade on you Swiss Army? Thanks Mate.
Also is there a reason you didn’t screw stand down on board ?
Screw base to a bigger block of wood to make it steadier or clamp on bench further from table edge.
Is this lansky sharpener still working after all these years??
Hi! I tried sharpening my Buck 110 with a lansky with the second (20 degrees) setting. And the bevel got much higher near the tip (as expected). Is that just something to live with, please?
What type of compound do you use on the lansky strop? I ordered some cheap green stuff from EBay... will that do or is there a better type I should be using?
3 years later I'll give you my reply. Lol. Any metal polishing rouge is going to be considerably smoother than even a ceramic stone. I do a lot of metal refinishing and use grey for cutting, then white, then green. Sometimes I don't even use green as white will give a good polish but green is considered to be the final polish for stainless.
Was that ff9 world map music?
Do I need the medium diamond one and the strop one to get a good edge?
A interesting test for you to try... right now your making the micro serrations go vertical with the edge. Not a bad thing at all. But Have you ever tried putting them from the Heel of the blade, going towards the tip? I know you do allot of rope cutting. Doing that would give you more aggression when doing a cut pulling back toward yourself.
Your way is fine still. It’s when your pushing the stone from the tip to the heel, that’s when the serrations are going the wrong way for most thing. Not that may ppl cut something by putting the tip on something then pushing to the heel.
i see what you are saying and I like it! I’m gonna do that with the rex121 to give it its best shot!
Would going from tip to heel be the better direction for a chefs knife, given that most people seem to push forward whilst cutting food?
the dulling process hurts my heart... :(
I treat this as a handheld system. I hold the stone in one hand and the knife in the other, and basically act like it's a pocket stone with an angle guide (if that makes sense).
Can this be used on a meat slicer blade?
How's your lawsuit with Square Enix going lol?
Hey great vid. I'm looking to buy this system. Will the clamp work with a knife with no flat? Like a full flat ground spydie? Thanks.
Did he use oil on the stones? Cause it sounded like they were dry
Any idea if I could use this on my s30v leatherman charge tti blade? If so which sharpeners should I use for it and what angle? Cheers
Copper Vw should work fine, though clamping the narrow blade might be tough. I’d personally go for a 25 degree because it’s a pretty soft steel.
+Cedric & Ada Gear and Outdoors hi. What angle of sharpening do you recommend to put on a Pm2 in S30v?
Thanks
Depends on what you use it for. For a fairer edge for slicing go with a 17 degree edge. For a more robust working edge go for a 25 degree edge.
Which lansky set would you recommend to begin with?
Love the video, I just wish you'd close your aperture down a few stops on your camera! It'll stop your camera from hunting for focus so much. Cheers!
nice to see someone not be so anal about exact stroke numbers and get an amazing finish...nice vid