Absolutely right. Once you see one gone used, you’ve practically seen all the steps. I made it uncut to show I wasn’t hiding any steps. I’m not the greatest at it, but for the systems cost and “little” time needed, no mass-produced factory edge knife is going to compare. Thanks for watching Happy New Year! -Nick
Clamp in the center of the cutting edge. And picture a line from each end of the cutting edge, and have the nose of the clamp parallel with that line. That will help with the run off towards the tip
Best explanation of the adjustment to tighten the blade into the holder. My blades kept sliding out until I figured this pro tip out. You are the first video that explains how to adjust the holder perfectly. Thanks
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
Thank you for taking the time to do this video. I really like the marker on the edge. That is such a good idea and really shows where you need to work the edge. Great work. Thanks again.
Thanks, Zombie Slayer I can't remember where I came across that tip. There are so many resources to come by on the internet and books, I use the use the ones that I find most proficient. As I learn more, I'm sure my technique will change. I'm glad I could help. Happy New Years -Nick
What a brilliant how to, I’ve just ordered this diamond set up with the base and leather strop, I’m very good with Japanese water stones, it’s something I was determined to master and have been doing it for about 10 years but whilst i can do most knives in most states I can have difficulty creating a complete new profile on some of these new steels out there so I’m looking forward to seeing how I go on with this for those types (read expensive) knives I was pleasantly surprised to see your video had some tips as well. Thanks again for your advice
I just bought a guided system for the same reason. I can get a blinding edge by hand on Japanese waterstones -- but my apex will tend to vary a little over time. It makes no difference when it comes to cutting, but if I want to re-establish a factory style apex, guided systems are the way to go.
I had the ceramic version of the lansky that I used for a while. It worked great for 5160, 1080, and D2. Though the courser stones wear quite quickly (I sharpened 3 knives with them before they became dull, again this is with the ceramic kit). Gets a scary sharp edge and switching sides is really convenient compared to other systems. There are some downsides tho including that the clamp only holds onto completely flat spines under 3/16” thick. Any thicker and the threads on the screws and on the clamp will start to strip the clamp threads (if it were the screws only you could replace them but this is not the case). Any angle on the spine of the blade requires clamping the blade very hard to properly secure it and the force required to do this will strip the screws fairly quickly and will also bend the tip of the clamp. Overall it is probably the best sharpener for the price if you get the ceramic stone version and will be primarily sharpening pocket knives that have a simple grind near the spine, but there are better options for the price than the diamond stone version that can also sharpen longer blades.
Worth mentioning that isopropyl alcohol (aka rubbing alcohol) does a fine job of removing sharpie. And I'd imagine more common in an average household than a dry-erase-marker, and more "food-safe" than Goof-Off.
Good vid man. I rarely have to use the coarse stones unless the edge is beat to hell. 280, 600, 1000 and strop it. Strop it good!! :) Lansky says use no oil with the diamond hones.
I totally agree with you. Coarse hones are mainly used for changing bevel angles or removing nicks from the edge. If I'm touching up an edge, I'm back to scary sharp in 5 minutes. With the diamond hones I use the fine and 1000 ceramic - the medium if it's been awhile. And yes, stropping is key! It's such an often overlooked step, but one on the most important. Thanks for the comment.
Good review and you made it easy to understand. I think the word you were looking for when you said parallel might have been perpendicular. I like to use a Jeweler's loupe to check the uniformity of the edge and also the progress of removing the burr. What would be the average price from a professional knife sharpener for reshaping the edge, 45 minutes worth of work to a customer paying for knife sharpening? Thanks
Great video as I just bought the Lansky 4-Stone Deluxe Diamond System with additional 1000grit yellow diamond. I also have the Lionsteel M4 which I measured ~22deg secondary bevel and thinking if the 20deg marked on the lansky bracket is close enough? Cheers
I haven't used the Lionsteel, so I can't speak directly about it, but the first thing that comes to mind in your situation would be to use the Sharpie test. Mark the edge of the blade and see if both systems are removing the same amount. Going from the Lionsteel to the Lansky, should technically leave a line of marker at the edge. The Lansky system uses aluminum clamps, so after a hard years use grooves form in the angle slot used most. My 20deg is no longer 20degs. it may now be closer to 22-23deg. There are a few variables that can affect the angle (how deep the spine is in the clamp, the way the knife is clamped, if the degrees are even what the clamp says they are, etc). This is why the Sharpie test, to me, makes the most sense. Let me know what you figure out. Thanks for watching -Nick
@@crawfordcutlery9337 Thank you for your reply. The Lionsteel M4 is a knife and has a secondary bevel which may be 20 or 22 deg. So I am not sure whether it makes a difference if I sharpen it with the Lansky at 20 deg Sorry for not clarifying this earlier Cheers
@deepsender I’m not sure. I doubt it would damage the blade. I’ve heard years and years ago that toothpaste could fix scratches in CDs. you may already be aware that rubbing compounds are different aggregate sizes mixed in a paste, e.g. toothpaste. If an auto rubbing compound has aggregate level as jeweler’s rouge, then I don’t see why not. Big box stores and hardware stores are the only places I bought rubbing compounds. I’m sure there is better products, but I’m satisfied with the results. Thanks for watching
ive had the regular lansky system for 10+ years, are the diamond stones that much better? im looking to buy a new system maybe walking away from lansky but im wondering if you have used the regular stones vs the diamond stones?
Hi, Guinelle I can't personally speak on the performance of other sharpening systems, but from what I've seen I'd say there are some good systems out there. I much prefer the diamond hones over the basic hones. Price-wise, I think the Lansky system will probably be your least expensive way to go. The hones last for an extremely long time. I bought a new medium hone once since buying the system. I started out with the basic system you described, so I was able to use that clamp once I wore a deep enough groove into the other clamp. I haven't done any research on the prices of hones for other systems or how long they last, so check that if you're shopping around. You're probably not going to get a hair-whittling sharp knife with the Lansky - I think that's more of a flex than any real need. You will get an extremely nice edge with the diamonds though. I wouldn't mind trying out different clamping systems, but until that time comes, I'm perfectly satisfied with my diamond hones. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching Nick
You are correct. Originally I clamped the blade there for balancing purposes. After battling with the fulcrum issue you point out for longer than I care to admit, I switched to clamping the base in my drill press vise. No longer did I have to worry about knives tipping over as soon as I let go of the base and I could more accurately center the clamp. If my understanding is correct and I can explain this simply enough - I may have this completely wrong -, the pitch (angle) of the hone won't change when moving from the belly of the blade to the tip. So, that would mean the clamp location wouldn't affect blade geometry. Also, the longer the travel of the rod, the less deviation in pitch occurs. If my thinking is correct, I still don't know what length of travel would be considered long enough to mitigate deviation. I'm sure this is a straight forward geometry concept, but I never took geometry. Luckily, there are people out there that can comment more thoroughly. Thanks for watching. -N
I think you are referring to when I take the knife off the rest. If so, I'm just looking to see if a burr has formed. I can assure you no pertinent info is lost during those times. Thanks for watching
Is there need for a sharpening oil? This diamond kit does not come with a bottle, if I see correctly, so I want to know if I need to but one, or the oil should not be used on diamond stones.
Robert, I haven't noticed a difference with or without oil. The liquid is used as a way to carry metal shavings away from the abrasive. I think oil serves a higher purpose on standard hones and stones. Keep your hones washed and, possibly, a light brushing with a soft-bristled brush, and you're set for a long time. Thanks for watching, Nick
That’s a great idea. Doing things cheaply but efficiently is the way to do it. It reminds me of a saying about engineers. A machine doesn’t have to be built the best, it just needs to be built good enough not to fail. Thanks for watching. Nick
If the blade length is short enough, I tend to go more for balance. Using a vice, or bar clamp in my case, is great for decreasing the importance of balance. I still tend to keep the clamp more-so in the middle for the reason you mentioned, uniform bevel. If the blade is longer than the hones' range of motion, I clamp the blade so its lower maximum range is at the heel. After using all the hones, I mark the hones' upper maximum range and adjust the clamp to overlap the mark. I blend the two together but don't grind any more than I have to at the mark. Overgrinding there can lead to a divot. The tip of a knife tends to deflect more than the heel, so placing the clamp towards the tip mitigates the bowing. That's another reason why light pressure is good. A hot topic on clamp systems and bevels is if the angle changes when sharping the tip along its outside corner. I think there is a change in bevel angle for three reasons, neither of which I have fully explored. Reason 1) When sharpening a factory-edge, more material is required to be removed before the edge forms a bur. One possible reason is that the tip's edge is thicker than its belly. A counterpoint could be that the factory machine is highly calibrated and should keep the same angle along the blade. Reason 2) Blades have a tendency to slip and move in the clamp, especially when working on the tip. For me, it's when the handle is towards the left and I push the hone into the outside corner edge. It twists the handle closer to me and the tip away. I hypothesize this changes the angle. Reason 3) People who freehand sharp seem to change their angle towards the tip. I think they raise the handle, thus removing more steel (steeper angle). My knowledge of trigonometry is next to none so I may be completely wrong on this. UA-camr, Simple Little Life, made two videos discussing this exact topic. I'm not in full agreement with his outcome, but I still think he did a great job tackling the topic and has the best explanation so far. I hope this helps. Thanks for the great question. More science needs to be involved to give us definitive proof.
The blade is not properly centered, it’s ok for short blades but for longer ones it’s a problem, secondly oil is only good for cleaning the ceramic hone. It’s of no use for the diamond hones
I saw another youtube video where the guy demonstrates how useful a protractor is to ensure you have an even gap when clamping down on the knife. Lay the jig on the protractor and ensure the tips of the guide are perfectly 90 degrees from the blade
That’s not a bad idea. My Lansky system is still the system I use after all the years. I’m also still using the original clamps. I’m sure other users can back me up when I say the aluminum doesn’t hold up so well after all that time. I have some pretty decent grooves worn into the 20° slots. I don’t know to what affect the grooves have on the consistency. My best guess is that I’m now sharpening closer to an 18° or 19° angle. Would the protractor still be as useful in this case? If I take my time (10-15 minutes) to bring back an edge, I’m still get excited as if it were the first time. I’d love to make a video sometime in an as-close-to controlled environment as possible to test out a lot of the great suggestions below. Maybe we can finally narrow down the best way. Or at least determine is the most satisfied way good enough. Thanks for watching. -Nick
I love the video but your explanation of the use of the magic marker is wrong you use it to determine which angle guide hole you use to match the original angle of the cutting edge
I have the 1000 grit hone (white ceramic with yellow top). I used to use it, but now it just sits on my shelf. There’s nothing wrong with using it. For me, it’s an extra step that I no longer do. Without doing any research, I think the results are negligible. I’m sure the 1000 grit would polish the edge quite nicely. I think I remember the edge becoming mirrored from the hone. I’ll have to dust it off some time to see if I can tell a difference. On the inside of my work belt I put stropping compound. It works pretty nicely to touch up the edge. Thanks for question. Nick
@HAFGaming I agree with you. The strop will remove the burr. If it didn't, then more people would be using this technique. The block of wood is used to speed up the process. I like to think of it like walking through mud. Even though the boots (knife) are going to get caked with mud (burr), it feels nice to quickly scrape (wood block) them off, even though at the end of the day they're going to get a good cleaning (the strop). Thanks for the comment.
Yeah, I think the stand is a little gimmicky. The pin (dowel?) will unthread often. Loc-tite or lock washers could hold it better. I don’t think it would take much to fashion a pin to hold it. If you wanted to hold the clamp directly in the clamp you may get tired of releasing the clamp to sharpen the other side. Thanks for watching. -Nick
@@jkstdstang the video is cut though so longer, i invested in diamond stones and can sharpen way faster than this system and it will be sharper. i am thinking of getting this just for the primary grinding of extremely dull blades as it is hard to do by hand. where i work they havent sharpened the knives for almost 30 years... have to completely grind a new edge
@@user-tr2dh4xx6u he is using diamond hones. I own this system and for the price point it offers a lot of value imo. I mostly use it for blades like you mentioned in need of a reprofile and it works well. I also own the ceramic kit and just ordered lapping film sheets to see how it does for a high mirror poilsh. I suspect the results will be on par with much more expensive systems.
Diamond hones are great for removing a lot of material quickly, especially in carbon steels with lower hardness. In some instances diamond hones are the only way to remove material effectively, i.e. super steels (S35VN, AEB-L, Nitro-V). The non diamond hones have been around for a long, long time and have put hair shaving edges on knives with no problems. They are made from cheaper materials that don't perform as efficiently as the diamond material. They cost much less, so may have a greater appeal to someone who doesn't want or need to spend extra money. My personal preference is diamond hones. They can be used with all the steels on the market and develop an edge quicker and finer. Thanks for the question. Happy New Years -Nick
terry bouch I haven’t with these. I’ve rinsed them in plain water. I still don’t know if oil is beneficial for diamond hones. I did some quick research in the past. Some folks say no oil. Others say to use oil but with a high viscosity. Some claim the oil supplied is only good for the stones hones. I’ve also heard that once oil is used on you hones it must be added constantly afterwards, and water can’t be used from that point forward. So, water and a brushing and light tapping to unclog the diamonds is what method I use. I hope that helps. Best of luck,
DO NOT use oil on the diamond hones, it will clog it up and make it too smooth to use. If you go to Lansky's website all the info is there for when and how to use everything in the set.
Hi, Andrei My hones will do the same after extensive use, so there may be a few reasons why yours have worn down quickly. The diamonds are glued on to the surface of the hone. Perhaps the glue is faulty and the diamonds fell off. I think what is more likely to have happened is you may be using too much pressure. That will cause the diamonds to wear down quickly. It takes some time to really wear them down, so you may have just broke them in. I think you should still be able to use them. It may take a few extra swipes before you can move onto the next hone. I hope that helps. Thanks
I do not use the oil with the diamond hones. I could be wrong, but I think the oil clogs the hones' cutting ability. If I were using an Arkansas stone or their standard stone hones, then I would use the oil to release the metal particles. I wash my diamond hones with water every so often and that seems to do the trick. Carbon (diamond) doesn't like heat. It will break down quicker when exposed to high heat, but I don't the friction heat gets hot enough to cause concern. Thanks for watching, Nick
I used this several times and followed the instructions to the letter. As far as I'm concerned this tool SUCKS and doesn't work as advertised. DON'T buy, waste of time & money. I got a good old wet stone and put in the time (not that long) andgot and excellent sharpening.
why would you sharpen your knife just to dull it immediately afterward? That is definitely not how you get rid of a bur by cutting into a piece of wood. If that is how your deburr you knives, read the instructions or watch a video where someone actually knows how to use the lansky system the correct way
Meh, the whole point of a video is so we don't have to read the instructions. I'm rather happy with the results derived from using the woodblock deburring method. I came across the technique in Chad Ward's book "An Edge in the Kitchen." It's a fantastic read. Thanks for watching.
Skip to 8:15 when he actually starts to use the hones to sharpen. A 3 minute video stretched to 22 minutes. Good info but a little too much info.
Absolutely right. Once you see one gone used, you’ve practically seen all the steps.
I made it uncut to show I wasn’t hiding any steps.
I’m not the greatest at it, but for the systems cost and “little” time needed, no mass-produced factory edge knife is going to compare.
Thanks for watching
Happy New Year!
-Nick
Thanks for the time saver
thx
Actually the Video put out a lot of info that some may knot not know.
He actually showed a lot of information that I did not know when it comes to this device, which I will be getting shortly
Clamp in the center of the cutting edge. And picture a line from each end of the cutting edge, and have the nose of the clamp parallel with that line. That will help with the run off towards the tip
That’s exactly what I did! Nice to hear someone else supported my thought process.
Best explanation of the adjustment to tighten the blade into the holder. My blades kept sliding out until I figured this pro tip out. You are the first video that explains how to adjust the holder perfectly. Thanks
D, I'm glad you found the video useful.
My work is done.. for now.
Thanks for watching.
-Nick
Yeah I didn't know that either, can't wait to try it
best detailed instructions, still valid after 4 years and many others that tried the same
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
Really to the point sharpening tutorial,....super helpful and covered literally everything, IMO!!
Really appreciate your help!!!!
Thank you for taking the time to do this video. I really like the marker on the edge. That is such a good idea and really shows where you need to work the edge. Great work. Thanks again.
Thanks, Zombie Slayer
I can't remember where I came across that tip. There are so many resources to come by on the internet and books, I use the use the ones that I find most proficient. As I learn more, I'm sure my technique will change.
I'm glad I could help.
Happy New Years
-Nick
best instructional video of the lansky I have ever seen...thx
Jeremy, thanks for the support!
-Nick
What a brilliant how to, I’ve just ordered this diamond set up with the base and leather strop, I’m very good with Japanese water stones, it’s something I was determined to master and have been doing it for about 10 years but whilst i can do most knives in most states I can have difficulty creating a complete new profile on some of these new steels out there so I’m looking forward to seeing how I go on with this for those types (read expensive) knives I was pleasantly surprised to see your video had some tips as well. Thanks again for your advice
I just bought a guided system for the same reason. I can get a blinding edge by hand on Japanese waterstones -- but my apex will tend to vary a little over time. It makes no difference when it comes to cutting, but if I want to re-establish a factory style apex, guided systems are the way to go.
I had the ceramic version of the lansky that I used for a while. It worked great for 5160, 1080, and D2. Though the courser stones wear quite quickly (I sharpened 3 knives with them before they became dull, again this is with the ceramic kit). Gets a scary sharp edge and switching sides is really convenient compared to other systems. There are some downsides tho including that the clamp only holds onto completely flat spines under 3/16” thick. Any thicker and the threads on the screws and on the clamp will start to strip the clamp threads (if it were the screws only you could replace them but this is not the case). Any angle on the spine of the blade requires clamping the blade very hard to properly secure it and the force required to do this will strip the screws fairly quickly and will also bend the tip of the clamp. Overall it is probably the best sharpener for the price if you get the ceramic stone version and will be primarily sharpening pocket knives that have a simple grind near the spine, but there are better options for the price than the diamond stone version that can also sharpen longer blades.
Tighten the red screw all the way down and then tighten the screw down on your knife. You will find you have more room on your lower degrees
Thank you for sharing this, you are a good man!
wow! the block of wood again, it hysterical!
Worth mentioning that isopropyl alcohol (aka rubbing alcohol) does a fine job of removing sharpie. And I'd imagine more common in an average household than a dry-erase-marker, and more "food-safe" than Goof-Off.
Good point!
Thanks for watching.
-Nick
Good stuff, Nick. I could definitely attest to the sharpness of your blades.
Thank you much. The great thing about the Lansky System, is once the angle is set, touch ups only take a few minutes versus, I think, 46 minutes.
Great share, very practical.
Good vid man. I rarely have to use the coarse stones unless the edge is beat to hell. 280, 600, 1000 and strop it. Strop it good!! :) Lansky says use no oil with the diamond hones.
I totally agree with you. Coarse hones are mainly used for changing bevel angles or removing nicks from the edge.
If I'm touching up an edge, I'm back to scary sharp in 5 minutes. With the diamond hones I use the fine and 1000 ceramic - the medium if it's been awhile. And yes, stropping is key! It's such an often overlooked step, but one on the most important.
Thanks for the comment.
Nice tip regarding the black marker pen line on edge of blade. Great tutorial. Thumbs up from England!
@Roger The Dodger Glad I could be of help. Thanks,
Good review and you made it easy to understand. I think the word you were looking for when you said parallel might have been perpendicular. I like to use a Jeweler's loupe to check the uniformity of the edge and also the progress of removing the burr. What would be the average price from a professional knife sharpener for reshaping the edge, 45 minutes worth of work to a customer paying for knife sharpening? Thanks
Thanks man, very helpful.
Great video as I just bought the Lansky 4-Stone Deluxe Diamond System with additional 1000grit yellow diamond.
I also have the Lionsteel M4 which I measured ~22deg secondary bevel and thinking if the 20deg marked on the lansky bracket is close enough?
Cheers
I haven't used the Lionsteel, so I can't speak directly about it, but the first thing that comes to mind in your situation would be to use the Sharpie test. Mark the edge of the blade and see if both systems are removing the same amount. Going from the Lionsteel to the Lansky, should technically leave a line of marker at the edge.
The Lansky system uses aluminum clamps, so after a hard years use grooves form in the angle slot used most. My 20deg is no longer 20degs. it may now be closer to 22-23deg.
There are a few variables that can affect the angle (how deep the spine is in the clamp, the way the knife is clamped, if the degrees are even what the clamp says they are, etc). This is why the Sharpie test, to me, makes the most sense.
Let me know what you figure out.
Thanks for watching
-Nick
@@crawfordcutlery9337 Thank you for your reply.
The Lionsteel M4 is a knife and has a secondary bevel which may be 20 or 22 deg.
So I am not sure whether it makes a difference if I sharpen it with the Lansky at 20 deg
Sorry for not clarifying this earlier
Cheers
Awesome. Thx a ton for this!!!
I made it for you.
Glad a could help.
Thanks for watching
-Nick
Can you use toothpaste in place of jeweler's rouge? What about automotive rubbing compound?
@deepsender I’m not sure. I doubt it would damage the blade. I’ve heard years and years ago that toothpaste could fix scratches in CDs.
you may already be aware that rubbing compounds are different aggregate sizes mixed in a paste, e.g. toothpaste.
If an auto rubbing compound has aggregate level as jeweler’s rouge, then I don’t see why not.
Big box stores and hardware stores are the only places I bought rubbing compounds. I’m sure there is better products, but I’m satisfied with the results.
Thanks for watching
ive had the regular lansky system for 10+ years, are the diamond stones that much better? im looking to buy a new system maybe walking away from lansky but im wondering if you have used the regular stones vs the diamond stones?
Hi, Guinelle
I can't personally speak on the performance of other sharpening systems, but from what I've seen I'd say there are some good systems out there. I much prefer the diamond hones over the basic hones. Price-wise, I think the Lansky system will probably be your least expensive way to go. The hones last for an extremely long time. I bought a new medium hone once since buying the system. I started out with the basic system you described, so I was able to use that clamp once I wore a deep enough groove into the other clamp. I haven't done any research on the prices of hones for other systems or how long they last, so check that if you're shopping around. You're probably not going to get a hair-whittling sharp knife with the Lansky - I think that's more of a flex than any real need. You will get an extremely nice edge with the diamonds though.
I wouldn't mind trying out different clamping systems, but until that time comes, I'm perfectly satisfied with my diamond hones.
I hope that helps.
Thanks for watching
Nick
Looks like the tip is way further away from the fulcrum pivot point then the handle edge area, I move the clamp closer to the tip when that happens.
You are correct. Originally I clamped the blade there for balancing purposes. After battling with the fulcrum issue you point out for longer than I care to admit, I switched to clamping the base in my drill press vise. No longer did I have to worry about knives tipping over as soon as I let go of the base and I could more accurately center the clamp.
If my understanding is correct and I can explain this simply enough - I may have this completely wrong -, the pitch (angle) of the hone won't change when moving from the belly of the blade to the tip. So, that would mean the clamp location wouldn't affect blade geometry. Also, the longer the travel of the rod, the less deviation in pitch occurs. If my thinking is correct, I still don't know what length of travel would be considered long enough to mitigate deviation.
I'm sure this is a straight forward geometry concept, but I never took geometry.
Luckily, there are people out there that can comment more thoroughly.
Thanks for watching.
-N
Thank you for the video. Please be more careful to keep your work on screen. Thanks, good effort.
I think you are referring to when I take the knife off the rest. If so, I'm just looking to see if a burr has formed. I can assure you no pertinent info is lost during those times.
Thanks for watching
Is there need for a sharpening oil? This diamond kit does not come with a bottle, if I see correctly, so I want to know if I need to but one, or the oil should not be used on diamond stones.
Robert, I haven't noticed a difference with or without oil. The liquid is used as a way to carry metal shavings away from the abrasive. I think oil serves a higher purpose on standard hones and stones.
Keep your hones washed and, possibly, a light brushing with a soft-bristled brush, and you're set for a long time.
Thanks for watching,
Nick
Try lacquer thinner - works like a charm and much cheaper
That’s a great idea.
Doing things cheaply but efficiently is the way to do it.
It reminds me of a saying about engineers. A machine doesn’t have to be built the best, it just needs to be built good enough not to fail.
Thanks for watching.
Nick
Is it better to clamp the blade in the middle of the length of the blade so you get a more uniform bevel from the back to tip of the blade?
If the blade length is short enough, I tend to go more for balance. Using a vice, or bar clamp in my case, is great for decreasing the importance of balance. I still tend to keep the clamp more-so in the middle for the reason you mentioned, uniform bevel.
If the blade is longer than the hones' range of motion, I clamp the blade so its lower maximum range is at the heel. After using all the hones, I mark the hones' upper maximum range and adjust the clamp to overlap the mark. I blend the two together but don't grind any more than I have to at the mark. Overgrinding there can lead to a divot.
The tip of a knife tends to deflect more than the heel, so placing the clamp towards the tip mitigates the bowing. That's another reason why light pressure is good.
A hot topic on clamp systems and bevels is if the angle changes when sharping the tip along its outside corner. I think there is a change in bevel angle for three reasons, neither of which I have fully explored.
Reason 1) When sharpening a factory-edge, more material is required to be removed before the edge forms a bur. One possible reason is that the tip's edge is thicker than its belly. A counterpoint could be that the factory machine is highly calibrated and should keep the same angle along the blade.
Reason 2) Blades have a tendency to slip and move in the clamp, especially when working on the tip. For me, it's when the handle is towards the left and I push the hone into the outside corner edge. It twists the handle closer to me and the tip away. I hypothesize this changes the angle.
Reason 3) People who freehand sharp seem to change their angle towards the tip. I think they raise the handle, thus removing more steel (steeper angle).
My knowledge of trigonometry is next to none so I may be completely wrong on this.
UA-camr, Simple Little Life, made two videos discussing this exact topic. I'm not in full agreement with his outcome, but I still think he did a great job tackling the topic and has the best explanation so far.
I hope this helps. Thanks for the great question. More science needs to be involved to give us definitive proof.
The blade is not properly centered, it’s ok for short blades but for longer ones it’s a problem, secondly oil is only good for cleaning the ceramic hone. It’s of no use for the diamond hones
what should you use for diamonds? Nothing?
@@MrOzzy281 yes nothing, that’s what is recommended by the manufacturer
I saw another youtube video where the guy demonstrates how useful a protractor is to ensure you have an even gap when clamping down on the knife. Lay the jig on the protractor and ensure the tips of the guide are perfectly 90 degrees from the blade
That’s not a bad idea.
My Lansky system is still the system I use after all the years. I’m also still using the original clamps. I’m sure other users can back me up when I say the aluminum doesn’t hold up so well after all that time.
I have some pretty decent grooves worn into the 20° slots.
I don’t know to what affect the grooves have on the consistency. My best guess is that I’m now sharpening closer to an 18° or 19° angle. Would the protractor still be as useful in this case?
If I take my time (10-15 minutes) to bring back an edge, I’m still get excited as if it were the first time.
I’d love to make a video sometime in an as-close-to controlled environment as possible to test out a lot of the great suggestions below. Maybe we can finally narrow down the best way. Or at least determine is the most satisfied way good enough.
Thanks for watching.
-Nick
I love the video but your explanation of the use of the magic marker is wrong you use it to determine which angle guide hole you use to match the original angle of the cutting edge
You are going from a 600 grit to a leather strop. Do you not think it would be better to use the 1000 grit stone instead of the leather?
I have the 1000 grit hone (white ceramic with yellow top). I used to use it, but now it just sits on my shelf.
There’s nothing wrong with using it. For me, it’s an extra step that I no longer do. Without doing any research, I think the results are negligible. I’m sure the 1000 grit would polish the edge quite nicely. I think I remember the edge becoming mirrored from the hone.
I’ll have to dust it off some time to see if I can tell a difference.
On the inside of my work belt I put stropping compound. It works pretty nicely to touch up the edge.
Thanks for question.
Nick
I know everyone does thing differently but I don't agree with the whole block of wood idea. Im pretty sure thats the strops job...
@HAFGaming I agree with you. The strop will remove the burr. If it didn't, then more people would be using this technique. The block of wood is used to speed up the process.
I like to think of it like walking through mud. Even though the boots (knife) are going to get caked with mud (burr), it feels nice to quickly scrape (wood block) them off, even though at the end of the day they're going to get a good cleaning (the strop).
Thanks for the comment.
Can you just use this in a bench vise instead of buying the stand?
Yeah, I think the stand is a little gimmicky. The pin (dowel?) will unthread often. Loc-tite or lock washers could hold it better.
I don’t think it would take much to fashion a pin to hold it.
If you wanted to hold the clamp directly in the clamp you may get tired of releasing the clamp to sharpen the other side.
Thanks for watching.
-Nick
Is it possible to sharpen straight blades with this as well, e.g. chinese cleavers and alike?
JUST PUT IT IN A BENCH VISE, DON'T NEED THE BASE
How long does it take for a knife of size shown in the video to go from dull to sharp?
The length of the video you just watched lol
@@jkstdstang the video is cut though so longer, i invested in diamond stones and can sharpen way faster than this system and it will be sharper. i am thinking of getting this just for the primary grinding of extremely dull blades as it is hard to do by hand. where i work they havent sharpened the knives for almost 30 years... have to completely grind a new edge
@@user-tr2dh4xx6u he is using diamond hones. I own this system and for the price point it offers a lot of value imo. I mostly use it for blades like you mentioned in need of a reprofile and it works well. I also own the ceramic kit and just ordered lapping film sheets to see how it does for a high mirror poilsh. I suspect the results will be on par with much more expensive systems.
What is the purpose of the non diamond hone kits that lansky's sells?
Diamond hones are great for removing a lot of material quickly, especially in carbon steels with lower hardness. In some instances diamond hones are the only way to remove material effectively, i.e. super steels (S35VN, AEB-L, Nitro-V).
The non diamond hones have been around for a long, long time and have put hair shaving edges on knives with no problems. They are made from cheaper materials that don't perform as efficiently as the diamond material. They cost much less, so may have a greater appeal to someone who doesn't want or need to spend extra money.
My personal preference is diamond hones. They can be used with all the steels on the market and develop an edge quicker and finer.
Thanks for the question.
Happy New Years
-Nick
Ay dude,don’t put so much pressure on your edge with the strope you can round the edge off like that
Good advice.
Thanks for watching.
-Nick
do you use oil?
terry bouch I haven’t with these. I’ve rinsed them in plain water.
I still don’t know if oil is beneficial for diamond hones. I did some quick research in the past. Some folks say no oil. Others say to use oil but with a high viscosity. Some claim the oil supplied is only good for the stones hones.
I’ve also heard that once oil is used on you hones it must be added constantly afterwards, and water can’t be used from that point forward.
So, water and a brushing and light tapping to unclog the diamonds is what method I use.
I hope that helps.
Best of luck,
DO NOT use oil on the diamond hones, it will clog it up and make it too smooth to use. If you go to Lansky's website all the info is there for when and how to use everything in the set.
Roy Munson thank you
Why my coarse diamonds hone and medium hone are soft like fine hone after 2 or 3 knifes?
Hi, Andrei
My hones will do the same after extensive use, so there may be a few reasons why yours have worn down quickly.
The diamonds are glued on to the surface of the hone. Perhaps the glue is faulty and the diamonds fell off.
I think what is more likely to have happened is you may be using too much pressure. That will cause the diamonds to wear down quickly.
It takes some time to really wear them down, so you may have just broke them in.
I think you should still be able to use them. It may take a few extra swipes before you can move onto the next hone.
I hope that helps.
Thanks
@@crawfordcutlery9337 Thank you.
This is due to the stone getting clogged. Clean stone with soapy water and an old toothbrush. Dry the stone well and you'll be all set
You forget to say about oil...
I do not use the oil with the diamond hones. I could be wrong, but I think the oil clogs the hones' cutting ability. If I were using an Arkansas stone or their standard stone hones, then I would use the oil to release the metal particles.
I wash my diamond hones with water every so often and that seems to do the trick. Carbon (diamond) doesn't like heat. It will break down quicker when exposed to high heat, but I don't the friction heat gets hot enough to cause concern.
Thanks for watching,
Nick
Lol easy on the goof off bruh !
I used this several times and followed the instructions to the letter. As far as I'm concerned this tool SUCKS and doesn't work as advertised. DON'T buy, waste of time & money. I got a good old wet stone and put in the time (not that long) andgot and excellent sharpening.
why would you sharpen your knife just to dull it immediately afterward? That is definitely not how you get rid of a bur by cutting into a piece of wood. If that is how your deburr you knives, read the instructions or watch a video where someone actually knows how to use the lansky system the correct way
Meh, the whole point of a video is so we don't have to read the instructions. I'm rather happy with the results derived from using the woodblock deburring method. I came across the technique in Chad Ward's book "An Edge in the Kitchen." It's a fantastic read.
Thanks for watching.