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How to Sharpen a Knife | A Beginners Guide
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- Опубліковано 18 лис 2020
- Knife sharpening using a range of techniques and equipment.
Sharing my gold, silver and bronze standard sharpening options and why I choose to use them. Explaining the way I did things as a Royal Marine and how that has now changed.
Japanese whetstones: geni.us/ReAD
Fallkniven CC4 Ceramic Whetstone: geni.us/EZFy
Leather Stroping Kit including paste: geni.us/FzJNbP
Lansky blade medic - geni.us/B6OIQ
And last but not least...
BRECHFA~HVB knife- www.hiddenvall...
Please, LIKE/COMMENT/SUBSCRIBE!
INSTAGRAM : / hiddenvalleybushcraft
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That's one of a few videos that I have watched about knife sharpening that made any sense to me, so easy to follow, and with lots of options! You have a knack of explaining things in a digestible manner, thanks for a great video tutorial 👍👍
New subscriber to this site, popped up in my recommended one day. BUT! it’s funny how as I listen too the content of the videos, in my mind I hear and see my old British Army instructors from the late 1960s - into the early 1980s covering all the same points. Keep up the good work.
This has quickly become my new favourite bushcraft channel.
Good video. The methods work great with scandi grinds, easier to find the sharpening angle.
The Lanky is a great little sharpener. But I would only use the ceramic sharpener unless your blade is very dull or has a nick you want to remove then use the carbide sharpener as it is very aggressive.
I also use the WorkSharp sharpener. It costs a bit but has more sharpening options - couple of grades of diamond, ceramic and leather strop. Has a built in 20deg angle finder as well which I really like. It might not be good for scandi grids due to the angle finder but for knives with small 20deg bevels like Victorinox Swiss army knives it is great. My sharpening massively improved with the WorkSharp. But just like the Lanky I only need to use the ceramic and the strop, the diamonds are aggressive.
But it probably just comes down to finding the right sharpening system that works for you and practice.
I've actually moved the lansky sharpener into the kitchen, as it's a lot quicker to just run the ceramic on a kitchen knife than get the water stones soaked and the mess that comes with it. I can recommend it from machetes to pocket knives.
If I am using a carbon blade, I oil mine with food oil (veg, olive oil, rape seed) as using machine oil (3 in one) will leave a bad taste if used for food prep.
Also, I like many others never really cracked the Scandi grind method so most of my knives are now Semi-convex with no secondary bevel, I doesn't bother me too much as long as they are sharp all my blades will shave, I do find however that the sharper the blade the quicker it dulls, and as a chef of over thirty years I would testify to that.
Regards and take care.
Been a chef for over 30 years so had to learn how to maintain knives.
I worked with Japanese chefs for 4 years and they keep their chisel grind knives very sharp. Wet stones the Japanese mainly used were 800# grit to reset the bevels this will remove a lot of metal from the blade and wear them out over time. 1000# grit was the most commonly used. 10,000# grit was for special occasions to put a mirror finish on the blade and for there to be absolutely no cut marks in the sushi which was always sliced with one cut. To be honest I doubt you’d notice the difference between 10,000# grit and 1000# grit. The finer you go the more fragile the edge.
As for the Lansky Blade medic I’ve been using one for a couple of years now it’s quick and I like it, it gets used roughly once a month when my steel isn’t enough the tungsten carbide is hard on the blade but the ceramic is nowhere near as aggressive. As for testing blade sharpness with the cutting edge pointing up gently press your thumb down the side of the blade with a little meat of the thumb touching the cutting edge it will feel a little sticky if it’s sharp and if it’s not your thumb will slide down the side of the blade unhindered. Do this at different points on the blade to find dull spots in the blade.
Also your method for sharpening the blade is the same way the Japanese do it for European style blades with equal strokes on each side. Chisel blades are 9 stokes on the slope side to 1 stroke on the flat side.
The idea of marking the bevels with a pen 🖊 makes sharpening on a stone idiot proof good job 👍
I once met a guy in Spain who had given up a career in law to become a door to door knife sharpener and said that he even earned more money that way. Just in case you ever want to take this sharpening show on the road Nick.
Anyway I will endeavour to apply these techniques to my Mora Knife Basic
Thanks for the lessons 👍
I, too, have been watching different sharping videos. I like how you explained 3 different methods depending on location and access to tools.
One other UA-camr showed that cutting paper was a waste of time. One true test, besides trimming arm hair, is place and carefully hold a strawberry on a table and drag the blade over berry without pressure. If blade sharp should cut into berry and if not will glide over. Thanks again for your content.
Love the techniques shown. Like the way you teach.
I was brought up by a Royal Marine. Sometimes you may find yourself in the middle of nowhere with just your knife. How do you sharpen it? There is no shop to buy a fancy knife grinder,that you’ve forgotten to bring with you in your haste to escape whatever calamity life has thrown at you when you least expected it. I like your stuff. I hope and think that you mean well. In the wild you find a stone with the right tooth and with diligence ,care and intelligence you will always have a sharp blade.
Thanks a lot for sharing this knowledge. I have one old knife, that I always use for practicing different sharpening skills. But, unfortunately, this knife is noticeably "shrinking", because of some fancy sharpening stones. On this knife I have also used some kind of "Lansky", but after that the knife almost looked like a featherstick. I think, finding the perfect angle is the key for sharpening right, and I haven't found the key yet. Maybe some new glasses might help. The trick with the color pen is nice. I'll try that next time.
In fact I found out, that from your videos it's much easier to learn some new skills, than from many other videos on UA-cam. Knots, sharpening, tarps, everything is explained, that even I can understand it and copy these skills. Thanks again. Have fun outdoors and always stay healthy.
I did notice during your ASMR Brew Up video that you used your knife very carefully and delicately to make your feathersticks.
For anyone disheartened and struggling to learn how to sharpen, please trust me, as this comes from personal experience: use the sharpie often. I guarantee you will eventually become adept if you use this method. I was unable to sharpen and struggled for a long time. I actually was making my knives duller. But after some time withe the sharpie, I began to rapidly improve. Now, many years later, I am able to easily sharpen any knife, regardless of the grind. I can reprofile a grind I don’t like. It’s such a useful skill to have, as you can fine tune any knife to perform exactly as you wish. I can now get my knives so scary sharp that my friends are terrified to use them, so no more people bugging me to borrow my knife and returning it in bad shape. And please avoid those pull through sharpeners like the plague, unless you wish to turn your bushcraft knife into a butter knife.
At last some one who can sharpen knives properly, keep up the great work Royal :)
Excellent! I use the CC4 once a week and DC4 once a month. Always sharp. I also came up with my own method to use it by holding between my thumb and middle finger and using the pointer and ring finger for support and adjustments for the angle. Instead of angling the knife I angle the stone. Similar to the worksharp guided sharpener that pivots. I also lower and raise my middle finger to contact the blade to get the correct angle. Surprised no no else uses it like this. Try it out. I’ve had my stone for over 10 years. It’s an incredible stone that packs well.
would love to see a quick video on this technique if theres one available, interesting
very nice video, thanks a lot.
I am bit oldschool, got it from my grandfather, I am using scythe stone for all my knives, even kitchen ones.
Looks a reliable way of sharpening Scandi ground knives. There is a lot more to be said about knife edges, knife steels, and sharpening. There are a lot of misconceptions too. All sharpening removes metal from the knife. Even stropping. If the strop turns black, that black colour is steel from the knife that has rubbed off on the strop and oxidised. (Yes, stainless steel rusts too.) It's a matter of degree, and particle size, and the arrangement of the steel remaining on the edge.
Different knives have different lives. A scalpel may only cut 50 linear cm before being discarded. A razor blade, maybe 5 - 20 linear metres. A chef's knife may cut 50 - 500 linear metres between sharpenings. A survival knife, a similar distance or shorter, but on more wearing materials. In heavy daily use in an abbatoir, a knife will typically last six months to two years before repeated sharpening has reduced it to dangerously stiletto-like. Don't expect your knives to last forever.
It'd be worth emphasizing that this exact sharpening technique won't work with flat ground or hollow ground knives (most food processing knives, many folding pocket knives, hunting and butchering knives), where the edge is a very narrow strip on the blade, or for axes and machetes. Video should be called "how to sharpen a Scandi ground 10cm knife".
Hi Nick, I make field knives out of old high grade file's, been doing it for about 6-7 year's now, so in the shed I use small diamond file's, stones of alternating grits and a stopping board using Smurf poo, a stopping compound in a block similar to the one your using but it's graded. In the field I use an older DC4 which I bought about 12 or so year's ago, the difference between the older model and the newer model is the diamond dust content, the old one the brass is totally impregnated where as the newer one is only surface impreganated so it wears out faster. People should always remember a blunt knife is a dangerous knife. All the very best to you and your family. Paul.
@Neanderthal Outdoors do you have a website I can visit to look at and purchase a field knife?
Totally loved this video - thanks Nick 👍👏
Tks!, Nick. Same here in the Singapore military - 'Ops Driven Pace ....', therefore, no knife sharpening skills. In fact, they don't even issue us w/ knives. Ha ha!
Solid skills and advice as ever. Must admit I have your bronze option in my belt kit for standby in the field. I wish I could get a lot more training on getting a great edge to my knives, without having to spend ages with kit working them. I can relate to the use it hand it back ask for another scenario so we did not learn to keep 'em good! I shall try to improve with my stones and see how the edges come along
Hi Nick like you at home I use the Japanese water stone but I keep mine in a water stone tank which allows for two stones to be placed on/in clamps. In the feild I use a dc2 stone and a paddle strop. I learned to sharpen blades as a gamekeeper well before I joined the army. During my time in the Army I never had a blade issued so I lost the art of sharpening but soon regained it
Great video Nick! I always finish off with a stropping session on some news paper, I couldn’t tell you why but it really helps finish off to a real razor edge. Anyone else do this?
I use the Lansky knife sharpening system to get the initial edge and then maintain with a really good 1000 grit stone and a strop with polishing compound
Thanks so much for sharing.
Really informative, watched a couple of your videos now, new subscriber
This is useful to know.
At home I use Japanese Waterstones, in the field I’ve used DC/CC4’s but I hate them, I always scratch up the blades. I bought the Beaver Bushcraft field sharpening kit, great system, and a different way of sharpening. Mind you, most of the time a good strop is all it needs.
Great video. I use a ceramic rod and a smaller field strop with a 1 micron diamond paste. I use a 3v bark river convex. I can with a few min maintain a convex 3V blade that lasts a long time.
Great stuff. Actually the exact video i have been looking for.
I really enjoy sharpening my knives most of which are convex grind, just a personal preference. I also find it strangely satisfying watching others do it too. BZ mate, hopefully you’ve convinced some people to give this arcane art a go and demystify it somewhat.
my favorite is dmt or ezelap diamond sharpener 1200 grit and some green paste on the belt
I favour the Falkniven CC04 or DC04 as small 4inch long options but I've been using the larger full size DC521. Those ceramic ones are 1000grit which is into the realms of a polishing stone to maintain an already sharp knife. I use tormek or autosol paste on my strop. If I'm restoring an old vintage knife that has maybe got a few chips or some damage it's either 4inch diamond stones 400/600/1000 or if you have the luxury of a bench and sink then full size water stones or wet and dry taped to a piece of glass or a stone tile. It's definitely a learned skill and once your muscle memory is tuned you can do it fairly easily. Those carbide vee shaped drag through and watch your knife disappear whilst feeling like someone is dragging their fingernails down a blackboard is a last option for sure. I have a better last option which is a small "viking" style pendant piece of Arkansas stone around my neck with a loose fisherman's knot which has a flat side. A rounded edge for sharpening serrated edges and a groove to sharpen fish hooks. It's actually not bad to use assuming you have those skillset to begin with. I've played with green, blue and white block pastes and I bought some chromium oxide paste too and I believe there's a spray with diamonds in it but defer to the tormek/autosol option
Brilliant video`s very clear and to the point. I feel that i understand and could achieve many of the techniques you put across. Many thanks
Super, merci pour la leçon.
Thanks for sharing this. I am new to all this and bought this knife recently. I was a bit unsure about sharpening it to be honest and love the tip with the pen on the bevel. Cheers
Great video. Goldie as the next Bear Grylls.
My gold standard is wet and dry sandpaper on an engineered metal plate. 600 grit down to 6000 grit gets a mirror polish on a scandi edge no matter how abused it's been. Each piece of sandpaper lasts about four sharpenings so not too expensive compared to the price of good stones.
A decent strop paddle then turns it into a scalpel.
Silver is a field stone like yours, and bronze is paying a knife doctor to do it for me.
I love my Lansky sharpener. It's in my EDC, BUT it only gets used for my Leatherman Wave. My leatherman does get abused on a daily basis for work, but if for some reason she gets really banged up, its a quick solution to get of those chips and dings out and you are ready to go in a couple of minutes again.
I keep a small strop in my bag and when in the field give it a quick blast on the regular and I find this keeps the edge good then when back home a full sharpen as required before any new trips 👍🏻
I'm just getting into bushcraft. When you speak, I listen. Free knowledge. Thank you. Where can I donate 🤔
Oh my Goodness! When I consider the Free Knowledge I've gained between UA-cam and Google words fail me! Wonderful!
I've used the floor of an armoury to sharpen a blade lol. I've got the same Lansky sharpener in my old go bag
I think you should point out your are doing a Scandi grind here where the bevel and edge are one, most knives have a Saber grind where there is a bevel and separate edge.
Hey Nick! I have a variety of stones as well, varying in grit, with a few japanese stones that I have had for over 20 years as my finishing stones.
Compliments, have seen a ziljon video’s about sharpening but keeped watching untill the end and enjoyed it. Spot on explanation and although as a sharpening hobby freak I own many sharpening systems, I got interested in the smal lansky tool, just for fun of having an other option😜
Best regards from the Netherlands
I carry wet and dry paper in different grades with a folding DMT sharpener which work very well.
Started watching, already know this is gonna be enjoyable! 👍🏻
@@hiddenvalleybushcraft5683 Nailed it fella!
Very useful informations. Thanks a lot. Best wishes
Frank
Mate awesome to have this video to fall back on 👏🏻 how about Axe sharp and usage?
Thank you. This was very helpful.
It is a sort of a science isn't it? As a young fella I wanted to know how other people sharpened knives or chainsaws or even big circular saw mill blades. When you hit that sweet spot it almost hisses. Thanks for the suggestion of the stropping compound. Going to look into that. Normally strop my straight razor dry.
Great video thanks
Very useful, and nice video. 👍
@@hiddenvalleybushcraft5683
Thanks you, take care and stay blessings 🙌
Thank you for the video. I thought this one very good with very understandable presentation. My dad gave some of my early sharpening experiences and have picked a couple ideas over the last three quarters of a century. My dad served in the Canadian Army in WW1 and again as a reserve during WW2 so a lot has chanced and in trench warfare in those days concern over sharpness may not have been big...lol! I did my turn in the RCN in the '60's where tools were used and turned back in, so I understand you there. My dad believed an oil stone was the way to go. Me; no so much although I still have his oil stones but I rather prefer water stones. I do use the oil stones and often use WD40 or kerosene or similar as a medium because it cleans the crud out of the stone surface; messy and inconvenient and unnecessary with water stones as the water does the job. I like the Skandia grind blades because sharpening is relatively easy. Yes; stainless alloys have improved a lot though I still like steel; I may be out of line here but my feeling is that when stainless blades are hard enough to hold an edge they tend to be brittle. Thanks again for the video and the numerous other videos you have out there!
Great video. Knife sharpening is one of those bushcraft skills I’ve never mastered. You have to be so precise on that angle of attack, one false move and it’s ruined. How do these V sharpeners compare to a gritstone grade?
I agree with the carbide V but I like the ceramic V sharpener on the Lanski. It does a better job than my hamfisted attempts with a whetstone even after 40 years of practice.
With the Lanky sharpener I would only use the carbide part if your blade is very dull or has notches you want to take out. It is very aggressive and removes a lot of material. If you keep your blade reasonably sharp then the ceramic part is all you need, leather stropping after can help improve a little bit as well.
It was discovering the ceramic sharpeners was when I noticed a big improvement in my sharpening.
If you want to spend a bit more money there is the WorkSharp. It has coarse and fine diamond sharpeners (for very dull knife), ceramic sharpener and a leather strop. All of these have an angle finder to help give a consistent sharpening angle. But it is only for 20deg angles.
I was rubbish at sharpening until I used the WorkSharp and the Lanky is easy as well.
fumy when ya watch a million ways to put an edge on a knife the best way however is the way you find easiest . me i use a piece of 20 inch x 50mm polypropylene webbing and polishing compound sticks from 600 to 5000 grit , rolls up in a tiny bundle, and it makes a great waterproofer for seams in ya tarps as they get old lol take care bud
You have to stop before the stone ends, the blade must not pass the stone surface, oherwise, you either scratch the blade, ruin bevel geometry, or dull the tip.
That was very informative. I like the different methods shown and how to do it. It is valuable to know that there is not only one way to sharpen a knife.
It is hard to see but you use both the DC4 and the CC4? I think I see the diamond side, too. How often do you clean this stones? I don't want to be rude but they look quite loaded. The dark ceramic has a mirror-look like it is glazed. Do they still cut? Thanks.
Hi mate can you tell me the name or send me the link to the shapner that you use to keep your knife in tip top condition in the woods please
Thanks john
Love this channel. So informative, so thanks for everything. I have a question. I lost the use of my left hand from a head injury and although I have figured out ways to do most things one-handed when I go out and practice bushcraft, knife sharpening is still something I struggle with, especially on wet stones. I was led to believe that sharpening my Mora Garberg on the Lansky would ruin the Scandi grind angle, but I am yet to find an option that I can do with one hand other than stropping. Do you or anyone here have any suggestions on sharpening tools that could be operated with one hand with the correct angle for the Mora Garberg? Thanks in advance.
Nice show and tell there and educational I gridded my teeth 🦷 when you pulled that poor old blade 🔪 threw that Blade Medic it hurt 😞 me to see that 😂👍👌✌️🇺🇸
Great video. Outdoors I might use a flat smooth stone? I'm just puzzled why people don't use an ambidextrous technique - i.e. switch hands so you're using exactly same movement (away from you) for both sides of the blade?
@@hiddenvalleybushcraft5683 Ha ha :-) True, but I'm a great believer in training both sides for balance. I'm right-handed but sometimes will brush my teeth left-handed ;-) Don't get me started on "one-footed" millionaire footballers !
I bought a straight razor a few years ago and got a leather strop with it. I’m assuming with some para-cord (hand/foot loop?) I could make it into a similar idea as the leather belt in the video.?
I have no problem doing the straight part and most of the curve. The tip is another story. Never used a marker so I don't know if it would help. After couple of sharpening sessions my tip no longer has just one straight bevel :(
Would you use the same principles to sharpen a smallish wood axe??
@@hiddenvalleybushcraft5683 brill! Thanks for taking the time to reply!
Knife sharpening is my chance for personal zen.
👍 👍 👍
Thanks for the informative video Paul. If I’m not wrong the stones you are using are different from the links on info. The link’s one is a common stone which is being sold under lots of brands but all of them are same and made in china. Can u share the brand of yours which you used here if possible ?
Really enjoying your channel buddy, great video and really well explained so cheers. I use a 2 sided wet stone (800/1200) which works really well. Also, I have a good friend who recommends using a piece of MDF to sharpen a blade, haven't tried it myself yet but am tempted to see if it works. He has an axe that he sharpened with MDF and it is unbelievably sharp!
My knife is a cold steel S R K and a knife medic
You're talking about The Law Of Diminishing Returns...
Is Lansky Blade Medic suitable for sharpening scandi grind knives?
Nice video mate. Are you using a normal waterproof felt pen ?
Why is a whetstone wet?is it to move the metal shedding?or is it for better contact
I ruined my recurve knife when free hand sharpening. Recurve blades are hard to sharpen.(Just knew how to sharpen them correctly, its too late). People out there who wants easy work for knife maintainence, i would suggest them to get a scandi grind knife like morakniv. Dont buy recurve blades. Its tricky to sharpen them.
If you sharpen a parang/machete, dont worry too much on the sharpening angle, just estimate the same angle for the other side. You will get a decent sharp edge.
When you feel there is a burr(metal dust) on the edge with your fingers, meaning you can start sharpening the other side. Make sure you feel a burr from the end to the tip of the knife. If not, means your edge is not straight(some parts are not sharpened).
Looking for a career change, can you suggest where I can train to become a mad fruit ninja??
Respect the fruit ninjas! Respect them!
'Bladed article'!😂
I've found a bit of toothpaste on a strop helps
I use a 1cm by 10cm, two sided stone.
@@hiddenvalleybushcraft5683 would a diamond ceramic be as good as the ceramic ceramic stone?
Yes. But I am getting ahead of myself as I need to look around to find some version of that use anywhere stone.
Easiest option is to get a gift card and use your link. Thanks.
not trying to be funny but I have stills were you aren't getting the same angle as the blade shadow underneath
How do you keep your stones flat?
@@hiddenvalleybushcraft5683Thanks - to bring them back from dishing. I've a few stones no longer useable due to them no longer being flat. I've tried sand papering them without success.
@@iainrumsey7672 get a nogura stone or whatever they’re called mate, they basically grind whetstones flat