Rover V8 alternator fixed - No charge!
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- Опубліковано 21 кві 2024
- Last time we saw the Rover P6 V8 it looked like the alternator had died...Tgis time I might have found a fix for that...
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Alternator charging 101: A positive feed is given to charge light, the neg is connected to the alternator, this feed creates a magnetic field (alternators have no magnets), when engine starts and rotates the regulator keeps the field excited and generates power. The terminal on the alternator now becomes a positive and the charge light goes out, two positive feeds to bulb will not light the bulb.
Simple system.
Gosh that’s very technical explanation
Yes that is correct. Plus as seen in video, rewwing engine over 3k rpm alternator starts to charge by itself. That is normal behaviour. But not intend to do. Chargin bulb wiring is easy to check. Ground the bulb lead and turn power on. Bulb lights up brighly if the system is fine.
@@Saakettithis is why the bulb always lights when the ignition is switched on, so you'll know the bulb is working.
Well said that man. 😊
So, that would mean a wiring fault to the bulb from the ignition 12v feed, the thin alternator wire to the other side of the bulb, or some fault inside the alternator...
Like wow, that was a quick alternator out....I hope Ian from hubnut isn't watching this😂
The 12v feed through the charging light to the alternator generates the fixed field and without it your alternator won`t self excite. You need to trace the wire that runs from a switched live, through the charging warning light on the dash to the alternator and check that circuit. Once you find which wire it is at the alternator run it to ground and with the ignition on the bulb should light, if it doesn`t find out why and fix it. Now with the light working reconnect and try the alternator again and it should be charging unless something else is broken.
Seems very possible you have a wiring problem in the dash. and maybe a bad or poorly connected lamp holder. I would look into that before making any long trips. Testing the meter should be pretty easy and the lamp holder likwise.
I wonder if there have been rodents in there...
@@furiousdriving Rodents sometimes make connection, sometimes not! Intermitten faults are the worst.
I should make sure you purchase fire extinguishers
@@furiousdriving Its possible but it's also a 70's bl car so it may be full of sub standard wire splices from factory. If it was the bane of the XJS I see no logical reason rovers would be spared. Also lam holder for bulbs that rarely burn out can be pretty much disposible.
Fire extinguishers !!!!!! 😱 omg it just gets worse Matt 😂
On the back of that alternator, there should be 3 terminals (incorporated in the rectangular socket and matching plug on the loom). There's 2 big ones and a little one. The little one goes to one terminal of the charge warning lamp. The other terminal of the charge warning lamp goes to the switched live (so should be live whe the ignition is turned on).
You need to check the continuity from the alt plug to the lamp and from the lamp to switched live. Then you'll know what's going on.
I think you're expecting 14 - 15v at the battery if the alternator is working?
I had a dodgy regulator on an old fiat once, it would either not charge at all or spike well beyond 16v!
It's also worth confirming your meter is accurate, I recently compared the old thing I've been using at home for years with a calibrated one at work and it was off by around 2v when measuring a 9v battery...
The dash light is part of the charging circuit , if it’s not on it’s not charging properly. Had this many years ago with a Granada Scorpio.
It showed that it was charging at idol but drive it for 30min the car would come to a halt with a totally flat battery. The wiring to the charging light was faulty.
Wonder how many of these got clocked in the 70’s.
I’d imagine a hell of a lot
The dash illumination bulbs were originally 3W capless Lucas 504.
Also a Lucas ACR alternator will "self excite" if you give it a boot full of revs, even if the charge warning light has blown.
Modern cars just have resistor to feed the alternator and the engine ecu detects charging and sends it to dash.
@@jongmans38 most modern cars have a smart charge system. The PCM regulates the alternator charge according to the demands of the vehicle systems, it's another fuel economy measure saving drag driving the alternator. The instrument waring lamp is also PCM controlled and works via the canbus system.
Yes, some cars with eco boost disconnect the alternator on hard acceleration to give more power, also de clutch the compressor for the air conditioning.
On moder plant equipment they are still exciting the alternator via resistor, was out repairing a warranty claim that had 3 alts fitted and was still not charging, turns out the resistor had blown.@@stevesmith2214
Seen same years ago on crysler avenger and mgb , no ingnition light, alternator didnt charge the battery, the amp meter could be part if the issue, its connected to the charging circuit. I tried putting an amp meter on my old mgb, result alternator did not charge battery. If the light does not come on with ignition on but engine off, then no power going through circuit and the regulator on the alternator will not output power. My guess would be check amp meter and battery light wiring, corroded contact most probably, or the voltage regulator on the alternator.
Well I was impressed for all of 2 minutes Matt 😂, but yeah think it’s a FAIL on your FREE fix sadly , and anyway who needs lights to drive at night 😉.
P6 V8 Rover, plays with your mind Matt.... 😂😂
I had the alternator light stop working on my MK2 Mondeo, turned out, that even though the cluster on the Mondeo is of a very basic design - no fancy electronics, there was however one small diode incorporated into the charge light circuit on the cluster. That had blown open circuit. A new diode fixed the issue, I had a few in my electronics parts bin, so no cost repair. If the info you got is true, and the alternator is relying solely on a positive feed from the charge light to excite, then obviously the light not working could be the reason it's not charging correctly. For a quick test, with the engine running, supply a +12v feed to the connector on the alternator that goes to the dash light, just doing so briefly will start the alternator. That connector is sometimes marked with an 'F'. If that works you know the problem lays with the light not working for whatever reason.
And the light not working could be a broken wire from the dashboard lamp to the alternator
You could also use your meter to check 12v on one end of the dashboard lamp, and use the meter's resistance setting to check from the other lamp contact to the alternator (you may need to clip the meter lead to the alternator so you have a hand free to hold the other the meter lead to the lamp holder, or borrow a friend's hand)
love the modular basis of everything in a P6
The Lucas 15 ACR was fitted on loads of cars in the 70s and service kits are still available on eBay for about £15. If just want to replace it go for a 17 ACR which IIRC has a higher output and is probably fitted to later P6s..
I had a P6 3500S and when starting up the ammeter would show an initial charge and then stabilise back to the just on the + side of centre which is normal .
Another test you could do is to run the car at idle 750rpm and switch the headlights on ..the ammeter will show an initial discharge - then will flick up to a slight charge then stabilise to show the voltage regulator is working.
Personally I think the alternator is past its best .
Didn’t know the trick with the charge light globe being an integral part of the circuit. LEDs will be good…..hope they work on the reostat and are dimable.
You still don't have a battery light do you Matt
You should be able to twist the choke knob and it lock in position. If it doesn't, then a clothes peg is needed!
should but have you ever seen one that did!
@@furiousdriving I think some did, but this would have been 40 odd years ago, so my memory could be tricking me!
@@furiousdrivingI had a 76 (p reg) Allegro between 88 and 90 - it's choke held when turned - though I think each use wears them a bit more so you need to turn them more until it doesn't hold ... so by now it's more 'info on how it was designed to work' rather than 'info of some use' :-D
I believe there's a relay for the ignition warning light. If you can find it, then the wire from the ignition light should be going to earth through the relay..it might not be .It's been many years since I last worked on old rovers . If it is a relay . Try and attach the ignition light wire to earth ,if the light comes on. With ignition on then, the relay is possibly dud . Thought the crud in the alternator might be an issue 😅
Ill look for it!
@@furiousdriving It's the silver relay on the drivers side inner wing near the bulkhead you can see it at 4:29. (If you take the metal cover off and push the contact you can start the car if the ignition is on)
my 1969 Daimler V8-250 has -- controversially! -- a Bosch alternator in place of the original Lucas ACR15. It wears out bushes about each 5-7 years. A$40, easy fix. (Just disconnect the battery before you try to change them over. Ask me why)
Matt where is the light? you need that ign light to be on. I have done some research on this and experiments on a tractor. I rigged up a christmas tree light and it did go off but only after it was revved up ( 1.1 wa too small) so you need the right size bulb, 2.2 watt roughly and then it should go out while at idle if everthing else is ok.
I would test if there's something wrong with the wiring first. Connect a bulb (same type as in the dashboard) between B+ (battery) and D+ (sensing) on the alternator with ignition on. If the light is on, you have a problem in the wiring. If it goes off when the engine is running, your alternator is charging well. As said elsewhere in the comments, use a voltmeter rather than an ammeter to check if the battery is charging, a healthy value is around 14V.
You can use an LED as a charging light, you only need to make sure there's a 2W 120 ohm resistor in parallel. Usually those are present in the instrument cluster, to make sure the alternator starts charging even if the bulb has blown.
I have a Rover P5b which has always hated me as much as yours does you. I have had it 26 years now and it never has been reliable no matter what I do to it ! Its is a very one sided relationship !
Haha Rovers get under your skin don't they. My P6 EVERYTHING apart from the engine has broken at some point, sometimes more than once. It's just that everything is so far beyond what could reasonable be called a design service life, so they fail in ways that just aren't predictable.
Could be the needle on the amp dial its self needs nudging forward or replacing. Great content by the way.
Gratis, ingen laddna! 😁👍
Had the same problem with my spitfire 1500 , turned out the wire from the alternator to the charge light had a break in it . Changed the wire and the alternator started charging .
Need a new voltage regulator for the dash? Wonder if that has anything to do with dodgy lights dials…..
Slow down! You didn't pause long enough to see that the charge light still didn't come on. That circuit still needs tracing. You could use your nice new test probe right on the back of the alternator.
Excellent!
I think you need to go through the whole electrical system with a multimeter and a test light to check for faulty connections or components. Otherwise you will keep these gremlins forever.
Fingers crossed, mate!!
Check your wiring and voltage
hello Matt saw you today 22/4/24 at halfords in aylesford of afternoon was looking for car polish and found some too.
Did u use the tea shelf?
Indeed I did, in a Rover mug no less
Have you got another car with the same alternator? Eg Rover 2000.
I'll just repeat what I said in the previous P6 alt vid to drop it into TA Spares near Chatham station. They might even test while you wait if you ask them nicely.
Alternator are crazy things mine smart alternator only works when I'm slowing down some kind of kinetic slowing down thing
She is messing with you!
yep , brushes become glazed . Contact cleaner does wonder
What are those 2 hot air intakes doing under the bonnet? 😃
I think a basic test you should have done is to see what the charging rate was with the headlamps on, then work from there. If your not getting 14 volts, remove it and lob it over next doors fence! Get the credit card out!
Lo Mathew. Only way to know if the alternator is working is to take it down the shop and get it tested. If it works then "old Betsy" is up to her tricks again. 😂Are you sure that thing isnae rigged for a dynamo.😂😂😂
Is your choke working properly?
yes but not the lock
....Could be the flux capacitor Marty!
dial is likely related to battery need of voltage . Fully Charge it before installing it or you'll burn alternator diode
It may a cheap fix fingers crossed
👍👍👍
Hmm, Kawasaki green.....
Old cars 😂 lovely
Video approved, end of transmission, I mean alternator, click.
It would be more useful to have a voltage gauge than a amps gauge
👍🏴
No charge! Lol
Intermittent faults... My Favourite... Urrr 😫
Hilarious title 😂
Ah, a fail fix! Or is it a fix fail?
Mechanical stuff I'm fine with but unless a simple wiring problem it was always a phone call to the auto sparks hoping he was there and not out on a job, still hate leaving a message or navigating modern phone answering systems. Give me a telephonist, no matter how rude he/she is, over a system.
I like this car from ever angle but my favourite is the back because I'd like to see the back of it 😂😂 only joking 😂👍 🚗
I loved it when you tapped the dial, just like Biggles in a ww2 spitfire
It's all witchcraft to me anyway so I believe you may be a Wizard in a Furious Driving Hat.
I find it strange that you have an 'Ammeter'. Those were used for a Dynamo systems. When changing over to an Alternator, they don't like wiring in series with the charge wire. (Needed to check the current) Thats why modern battery monitors (if fitted) are voltmeters and NOT ammeters. To suit Alternators. Has that car been converted from Dynamo to Alternator? If so there could be some redundant, or messy, wiring going on, from the old Regulator box..
she ain't charging
Yipee i'm 1st again
You seem to be trying to convince yourself its fixed. Sorry - it isn't.
Iv got a match ..............tick tock