Set a wider fan on the spray gun... hold the tip back 10 -12 inches from the surface... hold the gun 90degrees to the paint surface, and do a partial overlap with each coat... don't twist your wrist at the end of the spray stroke... stay 90 degrees through the entire spray, and come back overlapping the previous spray coat... Great job, in a short time it will become automatic...
It looks like you could use a bigger tip to get a little more volume. Also, the spray pattern is extremely narrow. Going to a pressure pot will be extremely valuable, and enable you to push out more volume with a good spray pattern. Also, make sure you put a good refrigerated air dryer system in place. Nothing is worse than getting water into your paint on a final coat.
It wasn't clear from the video, but I don't think you were overlapping your passes which may be why you were getting the tiger stripes. As you start the second pass aim to overlap the first pass by about 50%, this should mean that you will effectively get two passes over the entire area. The other thing you need to know is what sort of film thickness you are applying. On wood and composite this is hard to measure, you can use a wet film thickness comb on a very flat area to give you an idea of the wet film thickness. The data for the paint should detail the optimum film thickness. I'm sure your paint rep can assist you with this as it is key to getting a good finish. If the primer doesn't go on correctly you will have to spend a lot of time sanding it as subsequent coats will follow the contours left by the previous coat.
Pro tip! don't forget to drain the water out of your tank(on the bottom) once a day or buy an automatic/timer drain valve(120vac) you can em get off Amaz*n pretty cheap, dont forget pipe fittings too. or not...
Yes, with an outside installation you will get so much water in the bottom of your comressor tank, maybe up to a pint or more every day depending on how much you are running it. And that water must be drained daily or it will go directly into your paint or air tools or just helping to corrode the bottem of your tank.
Spray painting is definitely both a science and an art. Just like all your fiberglass work you have been doing. I found Kevin Tatz to be one of the best teaches out on various TV car repair shows and elsewhere. He is really good at explaining that you want to see happening and how to adjust settings to correct issues. As a total novice I've managed to learn how to get quite respectable results restoring and painting an entire car in my own garage in a townhouse complex. I'd recommend looking at some of his videos (most available through UA-cam). I'd also look into getting a "gun light." You already are wearing a light on your head. Modern lightweight lights are amazing to help see when you have to work in cramped spaces. Having a light shine exactly where the paint is going is super helpful to "read the surface." Lay on too little paint and you get uneven non smooth results. Lay on too much paint and it runs. You will be able to see the paint smooth out as you lay it down thick enough. Good light help minimize the risk of missing some areas (too light) or over spraying and set it up for runs. If you do et a run, don't try to fix it. Let is dry and fix later. Once you start touching paint, things get ugly fast. It's cool now, but when it's warm learned from one of Kevin Tatz videos to wear "old school" sweat bands on my wrists. I use masking tape to lo link my gloves to the Tyvek suit. You WILL sweat. When you are working inside the boart you do not want sweat drops from your hands getting onto the paint. Wearing the wrist sweat bands really helps. They get pretty gross after a painting session. The gloves may be filled with sweat as well... but at least it didn't get on the paint :-)
Also be careful of getting to close with your gun. With a little paint coming out, the air is still flowing at a constant speed-ish. The air can blow the paint and it will pool up and run. You may want to try moving with a little faster motion. You will get to know your equipment quick. Check out some car painting videos.
Matt, I gotta tell you you got one beautiful mom. I tell you what that lady works really hard and everything right you’re very fortunate to have a mother like that. She needs a lot of appreciation. Good luck you’re doing a good job on that boat. Have a good evening bye-bye
Be aware of the condensate (H2O) that will be accumulating in the air compressor tank. The amount generated is determined by humidity and temperature. Storing the tank outside is fine but it will exacerbate the rate of condensation within the tank. Things to consider: tank blowdown, the frequency and the potential for it freezing/splitting the blowdown valve. I did not see a blowdown valve on the bottom of the tank!! The filters, i.e. oil, water, and particulate are fine. Do not ignore the need for a blowdown. Good luck👍
Been reading the comments and there's plenty of good tips . Bottom line Duracell is going to look awesome . Don't worry the prime coat looks like good coverage your attention to detail will shine thru . Hats off to your whole family everyone has their job that makes these videos so good. Duracell project is 100% thumbs up !
I painted for,years on machines , I was going to help,with some advice but many people gave you great advice , your doing good for the first time , just like your fiberglassing after a few times you will be the best !
Thank you for explaining the process for painting, it is interesting to see how people do it differently depending on ease, environment and practicality…. It also helps to have budget for good equipment and paint….. not everyone has that luxury.
When I restored a 1963 mark twain I had 2 compressors in the system. Gravity fed hvlp cup guns for the tight stuff and a pressure pot for the big jobs. Your doing a great job.
Fantastic, looks awesome, the time and finish you'll get is worth the price of a compressor. If need be, get the Rep down to help you zero in on the primer coat.
Spraying pretty close back up to around 1 foot and the fan will be larger and then overlaps by about 1/2. This will lay the paint on more evenly and help get rid of the tiger stripes.
A tip for the best air supply for painting. You want the compressed air to be as dry and free from oil as possible. A cheap way to do this is to take the supply from the compressor, run it though a long length of hose / pipe that starts up high, then works its way down with a water separator at the bottom. You can use a shorter hose / pipe if you place it in a container of water. As the air compressor works, it heats up the air which allows it to absorb water. As it cools down, the absorbed water condenses. You could run the compressor and wait, use the air and then run the compressor and wait again. Or using the long hose / pipe the air will cool down much faster. The downward path of the hose / pipe directs the condensation to flow to the bottom where the water separator is waiting for it. If water makes it past the separator, you just need a longer length of hose / pipe. What otherwise typically happens is the supply line to the paint gun is where the air cools down and the air flow forces the water out through the paint gun. This is more of an issue places with higher humidity. It's also why professional paint booths have a pressure regulator and water separator placed right inside the spray booth with the compressor located outside and some distance away.
Less air more paint and a pot gun is the way to go help guns are great for small things and touch up as well as boot stripes but other then that with big area like that the hvlp gun just won't do a nice job and with a pot gun we usually put two coats on your streaking of spray pattern goes away after your second shot tips from a pro
I can't believe that you cut out the Header to get the compressor in. What about removing the 2X4s that it was mounted on? I'm sure that you will repair it soon and it will be fine.
My two cents. I think you're doing a great job. A lot of courage and "if I may" lot of Balls to take on a job like this. Super! My hats off to you and your family.
Cleaning trick, use a vacuum cleaner with a collection bag and hepa filter. On the tool end use a brush head adapter for the vacuum cleaner. It will clean more dust and better then wiping alone.
Of the many spray gun's I own and have used for painting projects such as cars and boats, my favorite spray gun is the DeVilbiss GTI Pro with a 110 cap, probably a 1.4 Cap. The finish is as flat as glass from the gun with no orange peel. Suggest a 1.9 tip kit for heavy bodied primers and fillers. The latest version is called GTI Pro Lite. If you get a run in the paint, apply polyester body filler level with the top of the run and block sand with 400 wet and dry, which will prevent under cutting of the paint surface. Buff polish to finish with a cutting liquid to finish.
A louvered door on the compressor room will cut down on some of the noise. There's always going to be leaks when installing air lines, always, at least for me. It's faster to apply paint with air. It's my preferred method of painting. Prep is prep no matter how you apply paint. To do a good job you have to do good prep and you guys spent the time. Thanks for the video.
thats brave. nowadays there are paint systems with rolling additives which are amazing. i painted my 29 footer hull, with zero experience with such a paint system and everyone thought it was a spray job. i still had to polish it because i had some runs, but with a bit more experience those runs wouldnt be there. the good thing with paint is if you want to repain all you need to do is degrease, sand, and paint again. rolling saves a lot of time in prep, as you dont fuss that much with masking and youhave no overspray to deal with.
Hi Matt, what you've set up is nice (you will need a compressor like this for future projects, no question) - but for the actual job you have to do (apply a heavy coat of material in one coat within a enclosed surrounding) it is the wrong technology. You must use a technology called "air-less" - and that is what it is: without air. A heavy coat of material on the surface with (almost) no overspray. The "airless-technology" requires compressed air to work (so: your new compressor will not be useless), but it sets the paint under pressure to get out of the gun with no extra air. It's a totally different "feel" of spraying paint, but you will get used to it very quickly. It's the perfect solution for your actual problems. I'm a Paintshop-manager from Germany, best regards from Berlin
You don't "must" need to use air less.. he has talked about that in previous vids and explains in this one, that the manufacturers of the product he is using said to use air. Of course airless can get thicker coverage, but not correct in all situations
You can leave the compressor switched on and start/stop it remotely wherever your power source is without doing it any harm - saves traipsing out to the shed and getting deafened. My cats _HATE_ my compressor and air tools! I always mix paint on the floor when using the drill - bucket between my boots so it can't spin. Brave move - love the commitment.
As for your concern about "explosion risk", the main thing is to DRAIN water from your compressor reservoir so it does not rust and eventually fail. There is a mandatory safety valve on the regulator that prevents an explosion from overpressure.
Also, now that I’m up to this episode, I would like to point out how nice your video production and editing is… the filming and the constant context and stories as you are filming for hours with the camera in your hand…. Then you spend hours rewatching everything you have just done that week as you edit it into such a lovely series. So engaged in your work and lives now. I’m spoilt now having had access to the series and have watched it all back to back…. Not gonna be easy waiting for each week to come out 😂 Thank you for sharing this journey with us. ❤
Probably should find a positive pressure mask for spraying inside the boat. My big tip is if/when you nonskid the deck use mix of course and fine grit. Will look much more even and be super grippy.
I bought those overalls after seeing you wearing them and learning about the warranty.. what a deal! Went to work in them today and they felt great! Your work is amazing as always!
In Europe mechanics and all sorts of trades people wear overalls. I love them. It's especially nice with jobs where you need to bend over all the time. No "plumber crack" ever. Farmers here figured it out a long time ago. I don't know why others performing some form of manual labor haven't figured it out. I have noticed that that they are starting to gain in popularity a bit and are much easier to source today.
@@andrelam9898 I don’t know if you can get Patagonia brand in your country but if you can you should check out their Hemp based clothing. Lifetime warranty on them. If they can’t fix them you get a new pair for free! It’s called the “Iron Clad guarantee”.
Considering the overspray and toxic fumes management, spraying inside may not be as advantageous it is for the outdoor finish, but it will certainly make a much better looking and durable finish in both cases as you pointed out.
I’ been a professional yacht painter for 15 years at Royal de Vries Feadship in the Netherlands and used the wole AWL GRIP system. I think you could have used some more reducer so you needed less air to nebulize it, if that is even a word. Than the Hullgard would have come out off your gun much easier (depending of the nozzle), and you would have had an more even coverage and less orange peel. Good luck with faring and painting!
it looks great. remember to blown down the tank every time it is used. my grandfather had multiple dry cleaning stores and all had huge air compressors out back that got drained every day any of the plants were open. thanks for the disposible tip hack for the spray gun. I always spent forever cleaning my guns. is there a particular brand? did you say 3m? Surely the paint sponsors have very expert and all their epertise at your disposal. They are a great bunch of guys to sponsor you.
Another tip is to warm the paint, 30 deg C paint really reduces viscosity, lessons the need for reducer, improves flow out and reduces drying time. Air boxes, water baths or controversially microwave ovens all work
We all have to start somewhere. Like everything else we do, practice makes perfect and take the tips u get here and keep moving forward. Doing a great job. Stay safe brother….
Matt, if that paint isnt perfect it will drive you nuts. With your level of perfection on all the things youve already built im sure the paint will be just as perfect. You might try slowing down and overlap your passes. That should get rid of the streaking. You can always go over it with a second coat to cover the places the paint soaked into the areas that werent sealed . Im sure you will be an expert by the time you get to the outside of the boat.
I will be happily surprised for you if that little 5 hp compressor can deliver the cfm you need. I sure hope it does. It is so hard to buy compressors these days as they fudge all the numbers for marketing. I just sold my shop and marine service business. The new folks were super happy with the old 46 cfm compressor. A true work horse
I saw it mentioned about turning it off remotely. App controlled smart plugs will enable you to schedule time on & time off each day, you can choose which days of the week too. They’re wi-fi but don’t need a strong signal from your router.
Greetings from Australia, Pro Tip… buy a refrigerative air dryer, place the filter with the drain before the dryer and the other filters after the dryer… as I don’t see a decent after cooler at the air end outlet, size the dryer with a capacity larger than the free air delivery of the compressor. Guessing that it’s an oil lubricated machine so I recommend that you don’t breathe that air regardless of what filters you have, others will argue that point… I have been in the Compressor industry for 20+ years.
Good to see that you now have a larger air tank for the exceptionally large job of painting, among other tasks, with air. Just getting the primer on the inside really changes the overall appearance of the interior and it's easier to see what the spaces will look like when the final coats are applied.
not that your asking but I recently built a spray system for awlgrip and can say a pony tank and 20ft of stainless coil in a circulating ice bath for dryer works wonders. also the festool sanders beat the pneumatic alternatives as far as dust collection period. keep up the great job with the project! also the 3m gun will save you hundreds in cleaning solvents and headache. make sure to reduce and stain the paint. topcoat does not stick to vinyl Ester no matter what the 3m premium faring compound says, you will have adhesion issues/bubbling. finish prime with 545 then 400 grip, tack and topcoat. Finally, air powered respirator amd 3m mask, don't spray with a cartridge mask. explosion proof fan for exhaust.
Don’t stress mate, you need to adjust your fan and the amount of air to paint ratio, you will work it out. Stick at it it’s a way more efficient method and your end result will be so much better.
The compressor Tank needs a “Drain Valve on the Bottom”. A 1/4 turn ball valve that is plumbed outside the shack. Drain the tank on regular basis when the system is Shutdown daily. The Boat looks totally Awesome, you are the Master Craftsman with a gifted Crew.
I've never seen an air compressor sold in North America without a drain valve on the bottom. Are you sure you weren't thinking of an automated drain valve, which will purge the tank at given intervals?
your going to need a refridgerated air dryer to remove water in the air for air tools and painting. Chicago pneumatic with internal dryer is the way to go ...small screw compressor
The music is extremely reminiscent of "You Ain't Goin' Nowhere" the Dylan song done by the Byrds from their Sweetheart of the Rodeo album. Really enjoyed the vid👍 and can do enthusiasm.
No doubt you have heard that you can spray diagonal sweeps hen horizontal to overcome the stripes. Well done Matt - another skill to master..!!! Such a great finish in the long run after a few coats. You are pretty handy with a roller, so I think the spray will have to be extra good for you to be convinced. But, I'm sure you will be an expert in no time..!!
One of the best things you can do for your air tank is put an automatic drain valve on it that will drain off any condensation collecting in the bottom of the tank every time the compressor cycles on or off. You can also take the load off your water separators/filters by putting a long tee before them with an automatic drain valve on it too. It should have a 6 inch to 1 foot piece of pipe on the top with an elbow going out to the filter inlet, a sideways mounted tee below it and about 3 or 4 feet of pipe below with a bell end and your drain. ____ | --| | | | | Simple yet effective. Also add a water separator, filter and regulator at each work station just to take care of any debris that comes from normal degradation of the piping, loose pipe joint compound, etc, etc. Also allows you to set the main regulator at the MAX for your distribution system and to quickly adjust the working pressure at each work station. The higher pressure in the lines allows them to further supplement the tank with the additional air in them due to the higher pressure. On a compressor mounted in a shed that could be damp and exposed to the elements its best to put a blast cage around the compressor just in case you end up having enough condensate build up to compromise the tank by rust or freezing. In a commercial setting these are required by law in many parts of the country. Best!
Superb set up Matt. it will really come into play on the outside of the hull! A da with wet/dry discs for sanding the hull will help wash the surface as you go where an electric da is a no-no. I don't think it puts as much material on as a roller but the finish can be superior. It is a bit of a thing that spray painting is 99% prep and masking and 1% spraying. Oh yes, regarding blowing up?I had one set the relief valve off @ above 130psi and I got the fright of my life? the pressure regulator should be set to suit your working situation. you will easy get the hang of it,
My Mom had a 27' O'Day when we lived in upstate, NY. Wonder if it is the same boat your patron owns now. Hers was on Sacandaga Lake but could be anywhere in the north east by now.
Painting at last. Practice makes perfect. Thanks for the video. There are so many safety features on the compressor setup i think your chances of explosion are very very slim. Thanks for the video 👍👍😁
It will be very good to fit an automatic water valve at the bottom of the airtank. This will help another water separator. Also, I believe that you are far north and temperatures change a lot. Because of this, you might have water in the system after the water separator. Maybe you need some insulation on this blue air pipe. I can be wrong with this, but for the water valve, I totally suggest it ! Good luck with the project ❤
Some streaks, widen spray path, add overlap, spray amount may be too lean or thin. Try further distance from spray surface. First coat, learning curve, trial and error. Repeat will get better finish.
Make sure the paint is wet when the next pass comes back. Time how long it takes for the paint to flash dry and try some different techniques. Even doing multiple thin coats applied from further away and quickly covering the area could help. This might be an area where you can ask for a professional volunteer to help too. :) But it is looking really good, and I am happy that you are making progress.
Like you i do my own work. I have sprayed and rolled awlgrip and i now prefer mohair short nap roller and skip the tip because its looks so good. Masking and overspray is time consuming and uses a lot more paint. Free awlgrip is fantastic . Good luck
Whilst I love fibreglassing, there’s something about painting that feels very satisfying. Like the end of the project, although it isn’t by any means. Great episode
Nice work. It’s streaky because you’re not putting out enough product. Because of that you have to be to close. Either you’re product is to thick or you need to increase the amount of paint you’re letting out via a needle adjustment.
“Coverage”. The word you were looking for was coverage 😊. Wondering about all the screw holes you’ve put holding cleats on and various pieces together. Have you been filling those as you go or will there be a time for that? I thought a saw some in the cabin top and “cathouse” benches. Figured you would want all of those filled before you started painting. Cheers
I was a pro painter. Your technique is basically good. Aim for consistent distance and no angling of of vertical. Keep the paint going on straight no fanning off . Hatd to describe but no breaking your wrist and spraying away from straight vertical or horizontal.. also I always liked as much air pressure as practical and open the fan a bit.
Trick. Purchase the largest unlubricated condoms . If you have a considerable amount of two part mixed paint in the gun or bucket , pour into condom, tie knot and place in fridge to be used again the next day. A condom does not give off or allow condensation. Some people pour into latex gloves too.
I have a "spray booth" in my shop and I spray everything I can find with paint. Peditt polyurethane paint for the win super cheap and really durable. Awlgrip is super nice though.
For noise, rout the air inlet throught the heaviest csr or truck muffler you can find or make one from a 5gallon bucket and some rockwool. The amount of painting you have to do. You should buy an air dryer. A cheap one will be a grand, when your done sell it for half.
Matt, buy yourself a proper DeWilbiss spraygun with a big nozzle. It will follow you for years. The cheap China 3M junk will only let you down. Use a HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) type of Gun as this is perfect for epoxy. It creates bigger droplets and less spraying dust. A traditional spraygun is dusty and demands much thinning of the paint. Only problem is that your compressor is likely to be too small. When the tank is low the compressor has to follow the used volume....so Jannie, now you know what Matt must have for his birthday 😊
Technically, the inside of that boat is a confined space, and putting that much paint and solvent into the air of a small space may exceed the capability of your respirator. Suggest a PAPR or even supplied air for these kind of jobs unless Awlgrip permits it. Maybe the paint is SO low VOC that they allow it.
No problem just another job to become an expert at , and I’m sure that’ll happen sooner than later with the help from some of the expert painters on here , well done Matt looking good 👍 Graham
If you want a nice finish for your paint job the most important thing is that you underlying layers are applied well. Poor primer job will show up in the final paint job
You are spraying a bit close stick to 12 inches givevor take. Delivery of paint seems a bit low too, might be viscosity or flow rate/pressure. Its going to be great for top coat though. 👍
You are VERY lucky the "Feline Inspector" didn't notice but you need to relocate combustibles, like gas tanks, away from a compressor, as those brushed universal motors spark every time they engage.
@@TheDuracellProjectactually, "empty" is worse, VERY much worse. Liquids do not burn, the vapours do. And "empty" just means full of vapours. Every fuel has a Goldilocks zone of the right temperature to emit vapours and the right ratio of vapours to oxygen to burn. But unless you have a gas detector that can check for LEL (lower explosive limit) and you scan everywhere, you won't really know if you have that ideal environment. So better to be safe than sorry. Former firefighter with training in hazardous materials and former aviation fuel truck driver. A lot of people panic around dangerous goods when it reality they tend to be much safer then people realise, but when things do go wrong they do it in spectacular fashion. I wasn't even allowed to carry a cigarette lighter when driving the fuel trucks. But I had one catch fire on me and the full load of jet fuel was fine. Got the engine fire put out, the truck repaired the same day and delivered that load of fuel the next morning. Of course not all fuels are as mild as jet fuel.
![Welding Duracell's Fuel Tank [E114]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SeFqjZXbr2o/mqdefault.jpg)
![Welding Duracell's Fuel Tank [E114]](/img/tr.png)
![This HUGE, CUSTOM BUILT HATCH has UNIQUE Features [EP 136]](/img/n.gif)
Set a wider fan on the spray gun... hold the tip back 10 -12 inches from the surface... hold the gun 90degrees to the paint surface, and do a partial overlap with each coat... don't twist your wrist at the end of the spray stroke... stay 90 degrees through the entire spray, and come back overlapping the previous spray coat...
Great job, in a short time it will become automatic...
Great advice, better to spray twice instead of filling the gaps.
Did just like that, professionally, many yrs ago. It worked well enough for my skills to be in demand.
I was telling him to pull back some.
What he said. Also, maybe a little less air and a little more fluid. Start with what he said above and tweak it a bit as I said as necessary.
Good advice, follow these tips, you’ll be killing it. Spraying is the only way to go..
It looks like you could use a bigger tip to get a little more volume. Also, the spray pattern is extremely narrow. Going to a pressure pot will be extremely valuable, and enable you to push out more volume with a good spray pattern. Also, make sure you put a good refrigerated air dryer system in place. Nothing is worse than getting water into your paint on a final coat.
Your Mom is the best! What a star!
It wasn't clear from the video, but I don't think you were overlapping your passes which may be why you were getting the tiger stripes. As you start the second pass aim to overlap the first pass by about 50%, this should mean that you will effectively get two passes over the entire area. The other thing you need to know is what sort of film thickness you are applying. On wood and composite this is hard to measure, you can use a wet film thickness comb on a very flat area to give you an idea of the wet film thickness. The data for the paint should detail the optimum film thickness. I'm sure your paint rep can assist you with this as it is key to getting a good finish. If the primer doesn't go on correctly you will have to spend a lot of time sanding it as subsequent coats will follow the contours left by the previous coat.
Don’t worry, you’ve proven to master new challenges and techniques…these painting chores will become another nice accomplishment..
thanks, Frans! Yes more practice and I'm sure we'll dial it in
Pro tip! don't forget to drain the water out of your tank(on the bottom) once a day or buy an automatic/timer drain valve(120vac) you can em get off Amaz*n pretty cheap, dont forget pipe fittings too. or not...
Yes, with an outside installation you will get so much water in the bottom of your comressor tank, maybe up to a pint or more every day depending on how much you are running it. And that water must be drained daily or it will go directly into your paint or air tools or just helping to corrode the bottem of your tank.
@@mitch305and then it will explode and kill anyone within 15m.
Agreed! And the extra water separator in addition to regular tank draining is super important if you want a good finish.
Or make/buy an air dryer.
Spray painting is definitely both a science and an art. Just like all your fiberglass work you have been doing. I found Kevin Tatz to be one of the best teaches out on various TV car repair shows and elsewhere. He is really good at explaining that you want to see happening and how to adjust settings to correct issues. As a total novice I've managed to learn how to get quite respectable results restoring and painting an entire car in my own garage in a townhouse complex. I'd recommend looking at some of his videos (most available through UA-cam). I'd also look into getting a "gun light." You already are wearing a light on your head. Modern lightweight lights are amazing to help see when you have to work in cramped spaces. Having a light shine exactly where the paint is going is super helpful to "read the surface." Lay on too little paint and you get uneven non smooth results. Lay on too much paint and it runs. You will be able to see the paint smooth out as you lay it down thick enough. Good light help minimize the risk of missing some areas (too light) or over spraying and set it up for runs. If you do et a run, don't try to fix it. Let is dry and fix later. Once you start touching paint, things get ugly fast. It's cool now, but when it's warm learned from one of Kevin Tatz videos to wear "old school" sweat bands on my wrists. I use masking tape to lo link my gloves to the Tyvek suit. You WILL sweat. When you are working inside the boart you do not want sweat drops from your hands getting onto the paint. Wearing the wrist sweat bands really helps. They get pretty gross after a painting session. The gloves may be filled with sweat as well... but at least it didn't get on the paint :-)
Also be careful of getting to close with your gun. With a little paint coming out, the air is still flowing at a constant speed-ish. The air can blow the paint and it will pool up and run. You may want to try moving with a little faster motion. You will get to know your equipment quick.
Check out some car painting videos.
Matt, I gotta tell you you got one beautiful mom. I tell you what that lady works really hard and everything right you’re very fortunate to have a mother like that. She needs a lot of appreciation. Good luck you’re doing a good job on that boat. Have a good evening bye-bye
Be aware of the condensate (H2O) that will be accumulating in the air compressor tank. The amount generated is determined by humidity and temperature. Storing the tank outside is fine but it will exacerbate the rate of condensation within the tank. Things to consider: tank blowdown, the frequency and the potential for it freezing/splitting the blowdown valve. I did not see a blowdown valve on the bottom of the tank!! The filters, i.e. oil, water, and particulate are fine. Do not ignore the need for a blowdown. Good luck👍
Been reading the comments and there's plenty of good tips . Bottom line Duracell is going to look awesome . Don't worry the prime coat looks like good coverage your attention to detail will shine thru . Hats off to your whole family everyone has their job that makes these videos so good. Duracell project is 100% thumbs up !
😊
Loctite 567 thread sealant works wonders on pipe threads. Better than Teflon tape.
I painted for,years on machines , I was going to help,with some advice but many people gave you great advice , your doing good for the first time , just like your fiberglassing after a few times you will be the best !
Thank you for explaining the process for painting, it is interesting to see how people do it differently depending on ease, environment and practicality…. It also helps to have budget for good equipment and paint….. not everyone has that luxury.
You won't regret the big compressor and spray painting 😊
It'd be interesting to see the CFM rating of the pump, wouldn't it, the pump dictates so much when it comes to spray finishing.
Should be easy to sell the compressor when you're done with the project.
@13:51: That is quite some calendar of tasks behind Matt. What a commendable project management system.
When I restored a 1963 mark twain I had 2 compressors in the system. Gravity fed hvlp cup guns for the tight stuff and a pressure pot for the big jobs. Your doing a great job.
That air cylinder deserves a repaint.... When I saw it I immediately thought Minion
Project Brupeg!!!
No, paint a minion face on it!🤣🤣🤣🤣
Yes 😂😂😂
😂😂😂
Fantastic, looks awesome, the time and finish you'll get is worth the price of a compressor. If need be, get the Rep down to help you zero in on the primer coat.
Spraying pretty close back up to around 1 foot and the fan will be larger and then overlaps by about 1/2. This will lay the paint on more evenly and help get rid of the tiger stripes.
A tip for the best air supply for painting.
You want the compressed air to be as dry and free from oil as possible.
A cheap way to do this is to take the supply from the compressor, run it though a long length of hose / pipe that starts up high, then works its way down with a water separator at the bottom.
You can use a shorter hose / pipe if you place it in a container of water.
As the air compressor works, it heats up the air which allows it to absorb water.
As it cools down, the absorbed water condenses.
You could run the compressor and wait, use the air and then run the compressor and wait again.
Or using the long hose / pipe the air will cool down much faster. The downward path of the hose / pipe directs the condensation to flow to the bottom where the water separator is waiting for it.
If water makes it past the separator, you just need a longer length of hose / pipe.
What otherwise typically happens is the supply line to the paint gun is where the air cools down and the air flow forces the water out through the paint gun.
This is more of an issue places with higher humidity.
It's also why professional paint booths have a pressure regulator and water separator placed right inside the spray booth with the compressor located outside and some distance away.
Less air more paint and a pot gun is the way to go help guns are great for small things and touch up as well as boot stripes but other then that with big area like that the hvlp gun just won't do a nice job and with a pot gun we usually put two coats on your streaking of spray pattern goes away after your second shot tips from a pro
I can't believe that you cut out the Header to get the compressor in. What about removing the 2X4s that it was mounted on? I'm sure that you will repair it soon and it will be fine.
My two cents. I think you're doing a great job. A lot of courage and "if I may" lot of Balls to take on a job like this. Super! My hats off to you and your family.
Cleaning trick, use a vacuum cleaner with a collection bag and hepa filter. On the tool end use a brush head adapter for the vacuum cleaner. It will clean more dust and better then wiping alone.
You might need to put dryers at the end of those long lines into the tent, they will build up moisture
Of the many spray gun's I own and have used for painting projects such as cars and boats, my favorite spray gun is the DeVilbiss GTI Pro with a 110 cap, probably a 1.4 Cap. The finish is as flat as glass from the gun with no orange peel. Suggest a 1.9 tip kit for heavy bodied primers and fillers. The latest version is called GTI Pro Lite. If you get a run in the paint, apply polyester body filler level with the top of the run and block sand with 400 wet and dry, which will prevent under cutting of the paint surface. Buff polish to finish with a cutting liquid to finish.
Whatever you do man, you gotta keep the big “5” on the bow. It’s such and interesting and happy looking decal
A louvered door on the compressor room will cut down on some of the noise. There's always going to be leaks when installing air lines, always, at least for me. It's faster to apply paint with air. It's my preferred method of painting. Prep is prep no matter how you apply paint. To do a good job you have to do good prep and you guys spent the time. Thanks for the video.
thats brave. nowadays there are paint systems with rolling additives which are amazing. i painted my 29 footer hull, with zero experience with such a paint system and everyone thought it was a spray job. i still had to polish it because i had some runs, but with a bit more experience those runs wouldnt be there. the good thing with paint is if you want to repain all you need to do is degrease, sand, and paint again. rolling saves a lot of time in prep, as you dont fuss that much with masking and youhave no overspray to deal with.
Hi Matt, what you've set up is nice (you will need a compressor like this for future projects, no question) - but for the actual job you have to do (apply a heavy coat of material in one coat within a enclosed surrounding) it is the wrong technology. You must use a technology called "air-less" - and that is what it is: without air. A heavy coat of material on the surface with (almost) no overspray. The "airless-technology" requires compressed air to work (so: your new compressor will not be useless), but it sets the paint under pressure to get out of the gun with no extra air. It's a totally different "feel" of spraying paint, but you will get used to it very quickly. It's the perfect solution for your actual problems. I'm a Paintshop-manager from Germany, best regards from Berlin
You don't "must" need to use air less.. he has talked about that in previous vids and explains in this one, that the manufacturers of the product he is using said to use air. Of course airless can get thicker coverage, but not correct in all situations
Matt looks awesome remember it just the Primer. Please add 2”or 3” foam in the Air Compressor Shed keep noise down. Duracell II looking Sweet
You can leave the compressor switched on and start/stop it remotely wherever your power source is without doing it any harm - saves traipsing out to the shed and getting deafened. My cats _HATE_ my compressor and air tools!
I always mix paint on the floor when using the drill - bucket between my boots so it can't spin.
Brave move - love the commitment.
Great job with the editing Yani, as always! The boat looks more and more beautiful everyday!
As for your concern about "explosion risk", the main thing is to DRAIN water from your compressor reservoir so it does not rust and eventually fail. There is a mandatory safety valve on the regulator that prevents an explosion from overpressure.
Drain every day.
Also, now that I’m up to this episode, I would like to point out how nice your video production and editing is… the filming and the constant context and stories as you are filming for hours with the camera in your hand…. Then you spend hours rewatching everything you have just done that week as you edit it into such a lovely series. So engaged in your work and lives now. I’m spoilt now having had access to the series and have watched it all back to back…. Not gonna be easy waiting for each week to come out 😂
Thank you for sharing this journey with us. ❤
Welcome aboard and thanks for being a part of our journey by watching! We appreciate you.
Probably should find a positive pressure mask for spraying inside the boat. My big tip is if/when you nonskid the deck use mix of course and fine grit. Will look much more even and be super grippy.
I bought those overalls after seeing you wearing them and learning about the warranty.. what a deal! Went to work in them today and they felt great! Your work is amazing as always!
Can't go wrong with expert wife, mom, cat and commentators 😊
In Europe mechanics and all sorts of trades people wear overalls. I love them. It's especially nice with jobs where you need to bend over all the time. No "plumber crack" ever. Farmers here figured it out a long time ago. I don't know why others performing some form of manual labor haven't figured it out. I have noticed that that they are starting to gain in popularity a bit and are much easier to source today.
@@andrelam9898 I don’t know if you can get Patagonia brand in your country but if you can you should check out their Hemp based clothing. Lifetime warranty on them. If they can’t fix them you get a new pair for free! It’s called the “Iron Clad guarantee”.
Considering the overspray and toxic fumes management, spraying inside may not be as advantageous it is for the outdoor finish, but it will certainly make a much better looking and durable finish in both cases as you pointed out.
I’ been a professional yacht painter for 15 years at Royal de Vries Feadship in the Netherlands and used the wole AWL GRIP system. I think you could have used some more reducer so you needed less air to nebulize it, if that is even a word. Than the Hullgard would have come out off your gun much easier (depending of the nozzle), and you would have had an more even coverage and less orange peel. Good luck with faring and painting!
it looks great. remember to blown down the tank every time it is used. my grandfather had multiple dry cleaning stores and all had huge air compressors out back that got drained every day any of the plants were open. thanks for the disposible tip hack for the spray gun. I always spent forever cleaning my guns. is there a particular brand? did you say 3m? Surely the paint sponsors have very expert and all their epertise at your disposal. They are a great bunch of guys to sponsor you.
Looks amazing! I love the progression. It’s really cool watching it all come together.
Another tip is to warm the paint, 30 deg C paint really reduces viscosity, lessons the need for reducer, improves flow out and reduces drying time. Air boxes, water baths or controversially microwave ovens all work
We all have to start somewhere. Like everything else we do, practice makes perfect and take the tips u get here and keep moving forward. Doing a great job. Stay safe brother….
Matt, if that paint isnt perfect it will drive you nuts. With your level of perfection on all the things youve already built im sure the paint will be just as perfect.
You might try slowing down and overlap your passes. That should get rid of the streaking. You can always go over it with a second coat to cover the places the paint soaked into the areas that werent sealed . Im sure you will be an expert by the time you get to the outside of the boat.
Can't wait to see this finished! Nice work so far, good documenting.
I will be happily surprised for you if that little 5 hp compressor can deliver the cfm you need. I sure hope it does.
It is so hard to buy compressors these days as they fudge all the numbers for marketing.
I just sold my shop and marine service business. The new folks were super happy with the old 46 cfm compressor. A true work horse
Yeah, I commented on the same issue regarding the pump's ability to generate the required CFM. I would be quite surprised if it proves to be adequate.
I saw it mentioned about turning it off remotely. App controlled smart plugs will enable you to schedule time on & time off each day, you can choose which days of the week too. They’re wi-fi but don’t need a strong signal from your router.
Greetings from Australia, Pro Tip… buy a refrigerative air dryer, place the filter with the drain before the dryer and the other filters after the dryer… as I don’t see a decent after cooler at the air end outlet, size the dryer with a capacity larger than the free air delivery of the compressor. Guessing that it’s an oil lubricated machine so I recommend that you don’t breathe that air regardless of what filters you have, others will argue that point… I have been in the Compressor industry for 20+ years.
Nice first coat. I am sure it will look great by the time you finish the painting.
Good to see paint going on, another BIG step.
Good to see that you now have a larger air tank for the exceptionally large job of painting, among other tasks, with air. Just getting the primer on the inside really changes the overall appearance of the interior and it's easier to see what the spaces will look like when the final coats are applied.
not that your asking but I recently built a spray system for awlgrip and can say a pony tank and 20ft of stainless coil in a circulating ice bath for dryer works wonders. also the festool sanders beat the pneumatic alternatives as far as dust collection period. keep up the great job with the project! also the 3m gun will save you hundreds in cleaning solvents and headache. make sure to reduce and stain the paint. topcoat does not stick to vinyl Ester no matter what the 3m premium faring compound says, you will have adhesion issues/bubbling. finish prime with 545 then 400 grip, tack and topcoat. Finally, air powered respirator amd 3m mask, don't spray with a cartridge mask. explosion proof fan for exhaust.
cut the filter out of the 3m gun for high build primers, just straining it is enough, box fan not enough circulation. AIR FED RESPIRATOR!
Don’t stress mate, you need to adjust your fan and the amount of air to paint ratio, you will work it out. Stick at it it’s a way more efficient method and your end result will be so much better.
The compressor Tank needs a “Drain Valve on the Bottom”. A 1/4 turn ball valve that is plumbed outside the shack. Drain the tank on regular basis when the system is Shutdown daily. The Boat looks totally Awesome, you are the Master Craftsman with a gifted Crew.
I've never seen an air compressor sold in North America without a drain valve on the bottom. Are you sure you weren't thinking of an automated drain valve, which will purge the tank at given intervals?
If you line the shed with egg boxes or noise absorption material it should help with the noise
LePaws looked so scared when Matt was all geared up in his mask, poor li'l meow-meow. She's going to love her new little home on the sea.
its been really interesting to see you two grow into this UA-cam thing great job
You'll never regret the time saving and quality of spraying.
Compressor handy for many other things too!!! CHEERS from HERE!
your going to need a refridgerated air dryer to remove water in the air for air tools and painting. Chicago pneumatic with internal dryer is the way to go ...small screw compressor
The music is extremely reminiscent of "You Ain't Goin' Nowhere" the Dylan song done by the Byrds from their Sweetheart of the Rodeo album. Really enjoyed the vid👍 and can do enthusiasm.
Looking wicked, Matt, a bit of set-up work now will make your job a whole lot easier later. Keep at it, mate.
No doubt you have heard that you can spray diagonal sweeps hen horizontal to overcome the stripes.
Well done Matt - another skill to master..!!! Such a great finish in the long run after a few coats.
You are pretty handy with a roller, so I think the spray will have to be extra good for you to be convinced. But, I'm sure you will be an expert in no time..!!
One of the best things you can do for your air tank is put an automatic drain valve on it that will drain off any condensation collecting in the bottom of the tank every time the compressor cycles on or off. You can also take the load off your water separators/filters by putting a long tee before them with an automatic drain valve on it too. It should have a 6 inch to 1 foot piece of pipe on the top with an elbow going out to the filter inlet, a sideways mounted tee below it and about 3 or 4 feet of pipe below with a bell end and your drain.
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Simple yet effective.
Also add a water separator, filter and regulator at each work station just to take care of any debris that comes from normal degradation of the piping, loose pipe joint compound, etc, etc. Also allows you to set the main regulator at the MAX for your distribution system and to quickly adjust the working pressure at each work station. The higher pressure in the lines allows them to further supplement the tank with the additional air in them due to the higher pressure.
On a compressor mounted in a shed that could be damp and exposed to the elements its best to put a blast cage around the compressor just in case you end up having enough condensate build up to compromise the tank by rust or freezing. In a commercial setting these are required by law in many parts of the country.
Best!
Superb set up Matt. it will really come into play on the outside of the hull! A da with wet/dry discs for sanding the hull will help wash the surface as you go where an electric da is a no-no. I don't think it puts as much material on as a roller but the finish can be superior. It is a bit of a thing that spray painting is 99% prep and masking and 1% spraying. Oh yes, regarding blowing up?I had one set the relief valve off @ above 130psi and I got the fright of my life? the pressure regulator should be set to suit your working situation. you will easy get the hang of it,
My Mom had a 27' O'Day when we lived in upstate, NY. Wonder if it is the same boat your patron owns now. Hers was on Sacandaga Lake but could be anywhere in the north east by now.
Your going to love having a compressor! Works well with jitterbug sanders too!
Painting at last. Practice makes perfect. Thanks for the video. There are so many safety features on the compressor setup i think your chances of explosion are very very slim. Thanks for the video 👍👍😁
It will be very good to fit an automatic water valve at the bottom of the airtank. This will help another water separator. Also, I believe that you are far north and temperatures change a lot. Because of this, you might have water in the system after the water separator. Maybe you need some insulation on this blue air pipe. I can be wrong with this, but for the water valve, I totally suggest it !
Good luck with the project ❤
Some streaks, widen spray path, add overlap, spray amount may be too lean or thin. Try further distance from spray surface. First coat, learning curve, trial and error. Repeat will get better finish.
Make sure the paint is wet when the next pass comes back. Time how long it takes for the paint to flash dry and try some different techniques. Even doing multiple thin coats applied from further away and quickly covering the area could help. This might be an area where you can ask for a professional volunteer to help too. :)
But it is looking really good, and I am happy that you are making progress.
Like you i do my own work. I have sprayed and rolled awlgrip and i now prefer mohair short nap roller and skip the tip because its looks so good. Masking and overspray is time consuming and uses a lot more paint. Free awlgrip is fantastic . Good luck
Whilst I love fibreglassing, there’s something about painting that feels very satisfying. Like the end of the project, although it isn’t by any means. Great episode
Nice work. It’s streaky because you’re not putting out enough product. Because of that you have to be to close. Either you’re product is to thick or you need to increase the amount of paint you’re letting out via a needle adjustment.
You did pretty good with that sprayer. Looking good!
“Coverage”. The word you were looking for was coverage 😊. Wondering about all the screw holes you’ve put holding cleats on and various pieces together. Have you been filling those as you go or will there be a time for that? I thought a saw some in the cabin top and “cathouse” benches. Figured you would want all of those filled before you started painting. Cheers
Looking great, guys!
Add an additional air water separator by the boat side fitting
I was a pro painter. Your technique is basically good. Aim for consistent distance and no angling of of vertical. Keep the paint going on straight no fanning off . Hatd to describe but no breaking your wrist and spraying away from straight vertical or horizontal.. also I always liked as much air pressure as practical and open the fan a bit.
Good tips thanks
Matt, love the show so well done. This could be your best face making yet. Looking forward to when you splash
Trick. Purchase the largest unlubricated condoms . If you have a considerable amount of two part mixed paint in the gun or bucket , pour into condom, tie knot and place in fridge to be used again the next day. A condom does not give off or allow condensation. Some people pour into latex gloves too.
great episode! More progress! Keep rolling Duracell team! 👍👍
Trick to removing peelply from epoxy glass. USE a heat gun to soften it. It will release very easy.
It looks incredible!
Great video and great music ❤
I have a "spray booth" in my shop and I spray everything I can find with paint. Peditt polyurethane paint for the win super cheap and really durable. Awlgrip is super nice though.
Open your tip spread up and lay that primer down thick.
Nice Job! Both of you....oh and Mom. She seems very cool.
For noise, rout the air inlet throught the heaviest csr or truck muffler you can find or make one from a 5gallon bucket and some rockwool.
The amount of painting you have to do. You should buy an air dryer. A cheap one will be a grand, when your done sell it for half.
There’s actually an air dryer in the filtration system
That chances the mood so quickly. But of course it’s just the start. A little overwhelming to think about all the preparations you still need… 😅
Matt, buy yourself a proper DeWilbiss spraygun with a big nozzle. It will follow you for years. The cheap China 3M junk will only let you down. Use a HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) type of Gun as this is perfect for epoxy. It creates bigger droplets and less spraying dust. A traditional spraygun is dusty and demands much thinning of the paint.
Only problem is that your compressor is likely to be too small. When the tank is low the compressor has to follow the used volume....so Jannie, now you know what Matt must have for his birthday 😊
Technically, the inside of that boat is a confined space, and putting that much paint and solvent into the air of a small space may exceed the capability of your respirator. Suggest a PAPR or even supplied air for these kind of jobs unless Awlgrip permits it. Maybe the paint is SO low VOC that they allow it.
Should make a condenser coil since you have cold air this will really dry your air without a formal dryer.
No problem just another job to become an expert at , and I’m sure that’ll happen sooner than later with the help from some of the expert painters on here , well done Matt looking good 👍 Graham
Use a 12" fan on the gun. You can make it smaller for tight area's. More volume of pair coming out of the gun. Swipe per 2 seconds.
If you want a nice finish for your paint job the most important thing is that you underlying layers are applied well. Poor primer job will show up in the final paint job
You are spraying a bit close stick to 12 inches givevor take. Delivery of paint seems a bit low too, might be viscosity or flow rate/pressure. Its going to be great for top coat though. 👍
You are VERY lucky the "Feline Inspector" didn't notice but you need to relocate combustibles, like gas tanks, away from a compressor, as those brushed universal motors spark every time they engage.
they are empty, but maybe we'll move them anyway! Yes, the inspector would have slapped a hefty fine on us had she noticed.
@@TheDuracellProjectactually, "empty" is worse, VERY much worse.
Liquids do not burn, the vapours do. And "empty" just means full of vapours.
Every fuel has a Goldilocks zone of the right temperature to emit vapours and the right ratio of vapours to oxygen to burn.
But unless you have a gas detector that can check for LEL (lower explosive limit) and you scan everywhere, you won't really know if you have that ideal environment.
So better to be safe than sorry.
Former firefighter with training in hazardous materials and former aviation fuel truck driver.
A lot of people panic around dangerous goods when it reality they tend to be much safer then people realise, but when things do go wrong they do it in spectacular fashion.
I wasn't even allowed to carry a cigarette lighter when driving the fuel trucks.
But I had one catch fire on me and the full load of jet fuel was fine.
Got the engine fire put out, the truck repaired the same day and delivered that load of fuel the next morning.
Of course not all fuels are as mild as jet fuel.
Well done Matt first time a good job good luck with the rest
Turning out great