Hi Vince! I'm a geologist by vocation. The striated texture of the glass chunks is called a conchoidal fracture. In addition to glass, you also see it in quartz and chert, which have the same chemical makeup as glass.
It just occurred to me that I've never seen a video about different *kinds* of rock when basing miniatures; it's all just torn cork or pebbles or now these glass fragments painted up in all different ways. I'd be really interested in seeing how to achieve the aesthetic of different kinds of rocks (volcanic, "layered stuff" like shale, etc.) to mix up the look of bases. STOP. LISTEN. COLLABORATE. I mean that's not an order, just a suggestion with a conveniently-referenceable song lyric. 👀
@@seanmcgrath2049 I am a gemologist by trade, and fantasy settings are obviously full of real-world gemstone references. Some do it it well, others less so (although the "it's fantasy, so the rules don't apply" argument is a fair one).
I see you found some of Heisenberg's special blend there Vince! Haha, great looking easy base dude! I just received my copy of Space Station Zero and am stoked to try it out! Keep up the great content!
The glass chunks look great! I primarily use slate of varying sizes on my bases since they're usually flat and allow for some cool dynamic, epic posing with minis, but the fatter glass chunks (plus that great texture) really adds character. Will have to try them out. I imagine they'd look pretty cool on a glacial-style base too, as if the stone has been scraped by ice.
Ooh, lots of interesting stuff here, I like using bark for rocks but the crushed glass will probably work much better for a badlands look I've been wanting to do for my ironjawz. I feel like I could probably follow this exactly but add some vegetation and paint it differently, this is excellent stuff!
Wow!! That colour is intense on the figure. Please tell me that you have a video on now to achieve that purple! Thank you in advance and happy new year!
I have a sort of video on it, I have a chaos warrior armor video that is a bit overly complex, but it is this color - ua-cam.com/video/yZ9UgcEqdQs/v-deo.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
@@VinceVenturella brilliant thanks Vince. I have tried that scheme last year and it was nice although not as saturated as yours. Do you think this could be scaled down to old hammer chaos warriors at all?
I've been wanting to try Pro Acryl but it's not available near me. After seeing your and Ninjon's video I decided to go for it and picked up the basic set and both your signature sets. I can't wait for them to arrive in the mail.
The fact that they sell all sorts of glass beads etc in garden stores of all places makes me wonder what american garden stores are like. Over here all they sell is plants, pottery and dirt.
If only GW would make a set of corresponding skeletal parts - always seems odd to me that the only the skulls remain : ) Great techniques and tips, thanks!
Thank you for another great video. Just in time as I start basing the tzeentch parts of my LOTFP army. I love the blue-green jagged flint, and I’ve seen some cool color green jade-like “black stone”. Any suggestions on how to achieve a more smoky obsidian effect?
Don't is my best advice. Obsidian is one of the most complicated things you can paint. It's something I tell people to never paint. Now that being said, if you want to do Obsidian cheaply (it won't sell perfectly, but it's passable), you're just talking about glossy black. It won't look great, but it can work.
@@VinceVenturella thank you, maybe I can find some actual glass bits like what you used in the video, that are already the obsidian look to them instead.
Hi Vince, Thanks fro all the helpful tips, have you got any advice for avoiding super glue stains when gluing models to bases? I've been finding it tricky to assemble the model to the base post paint job without the staining.
Not connected to the topic at hand, but this is your most recent video. What is the best method/product for stripping paint from a small part of a model? I kept changing my mind on how to do some skulls on an otherwise finished model, and now the paint on the skulls is too thick. If it helps, I did an earlier "save state" layer with Munitorum Varnish after priming, as I like to hold the model without risking the primer coming off. I am guessing this may allow for a more aggressive option.
Question you have done previous videos on cuts and brushes and scars. But what about characters like War Smith Kyr Vahlen or the Hound from Game of Thrones. Characters where one side of their face is almost nothing BUT scar tissue, how do you paint that? Is it just paint one scar and then another one top of it until the entire side of the face is covered with them or is there some other technique to make it look realistic?
Hey Vince! Nice video. Have you tried using AK interactive terrain pastes? I found myself using their Rough Terrain instead of messing with glue+sand. Works great and doesn't cost an arm and a leg like GW
So I think I might finally have a worthy video suggestion. I am probably going to get one of the AoS holiday boxes. I am undecided but either DoK, Skaven, or SCE. I was sitting looking at them again just and now and went f$@k! - the SCE dragons are on flying bases. Like any sane hobbyist I don’t use the flight stands, but my alternate-bases-for-flying-model attempts aren’t very good. In an aesthetic (bad posing) and utilitarian sense (bad pinning I guess). I propose Hobby Cheating: Better Flight Bases! :)
@@VinceVenturella I’m excited for it someday - whenever! Just knowing I contributed alone lol…also I had stupid Primaris Inceptors come off my crappy basing jobs just yesterday! :( As for the holiday boxes - I did have to go with the rats of course.
Hello Vince, great video, as always! Is it possible to have a "bright" base as a contrast to a darker colour scheme? I am thinking along the line of having a slightly bright coral base for an army that has a darker colour scheme. Or perhaps that would not make sense in terms of how light reflects from surfaces and so forth.
You have to be careful as if there's too much value contrast between the model and the base, people will pay more attention to the base than your figures since humans are naturally going to look at brighter things.
It would make sense, as a dark model on a dark base could end up being a little "samey". As has been already said however, making things TOO bright will draw attention away from the actual model
Hey Vince. Thanks for the vid. I bought some crushed glass of of Amazon after your last basing video but mine ended up being super fine crushed. Almost like flecks rather than chunks. Are there size measurements on yours or a particular brand I can look up?
@@VinceVenturella thanks for the help man! I am assuming that this is the little 'rocks' you were using, and if so, do you have a recommendation for the larger 'rocks'? Or is this also the larger rocks, just the bigger ones in the set?
I assume you kept the basing relatively simple because you are working on a new army? Normally you like to ad vertically, where here you didn't. You where so adamant about vertically being really important in previous video's that make me think you kept this base quite flat for a reason.
Audio quality issues again, hard to hear you without turning the sound way up. I have to do this regularly with your videos, not a fan. Just letting you know.
![The Base - The Power of Story Basing - [basing techniques]](/img/n.gif)
Hi Vince! I'm a geologist by vocation. The striated texture of the glass chunks is called a conchoidal fracture. In addition to glass, you also see it in quartz and chert, which have the same chemical makeup as glass.
Gneiss.
It just occurred to me that I've never seen a video about different *kinds* of rock when basing miniatures; it's all just torn cork or pebbles or now these glass fragments painted up in all different ways. I'd be really interested in seeing how to achieve the aesthetic of different kinds of rocks (volcanic, "layered stuff" like shale, etc.) to mix up the look of bases.
STOP. LISTEN. COLLABORATE.
I mean that's not an order, just a suggestion with a conveniently-referenceable song lyric. 👀
Love this! Thanks for adding
Awesome!
@@seanmcgrath2049 I am a gemologist by trade, and fantasy settings are obviously full of real-world gemstone references.
Some do it it well, others less so (although the "it's fantasy, so the rules don't apply" argument is a fair one).
10:26 "I really enjoy painting rocks" - Ahh rock 59 and 367, those are good rocks.
Super informative and as always so helpful - can’t wait to watch it now until the very end. Thanks Sensei Venturella -
Fellow Chaos Lover
BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD DOGG! 🩸💀🥰🐶
Paints for the Technomancer! 🎨 🖌️
Thanks for the great tip about fairy gardens and garden sections.
You bet!
Thanks for all the high quality education. Most of my likes on youtube go to this series!
Great to hear! Always happy to help. :)
I see you found some of Heisenberg's special blend there Vince! Haha, great looking easy base dude! I just received my copy of Space Station Zero and am stoked to try it out! Keep up the great content!
Far out Vince that purple/magenta armour is glorious!
I always struggle with how to add variety and interest to my bases. This video was great ty Vince 😉👍
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for another great video! Always a highlight of my saturday to learn and to watch!
Our pleasure!
Such a simple but striking base. Thanks Vince, I learned a lot.
Great to hear!
I missed you getting excited over painting the rim😢. AWSOME video. So helpful!!
Next time!
Vince you are the greatest. Just when I needed to see this! Got the new slaves box coming soon!
This was a fantastic showcase! Appreciate the video!
The glass chunks look great! I primarily use slate of varying sizes on my bases since they're usually flat and allow for some cool dynamic, epic posing with minis, but the fatter glass chunks (plus that great texture) really adds character. Will have to try them out. I imagine they'd look pretty cool on a glacial-style base too, as if the stone has been scraped by ice.
Ooh, lots of interesting stuff here, I like using bark for rocks but the crushed glass will probably work much better for a badlands look I've been wanting to do for my ironjawz. I feel like I could probably follow this exactly but add some vegetation and paint it differently, this is excellent stuff!
Wow!! That colour is intense on the figure. Please tell me that you have a video on now to achieve that purple! Thank you in advance and happy new year!
I have a sort of video on it, I have a chaos warrior armor video that is a bit overly complex, but it is this color - ua-cam.com/video/yZ9UgcEqdQs/v-deo.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
@@VinceVenturella brilliant thanks Vince. I have tried that scheme last year and it was nice although not as saturated as yours. Do you think this could be scaled down to old hammer chaos warriors at all?
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thank you 👍
I've been wanting to try Pro Acryl but it's not available near me. After seeing your and Ninjon's video I decided to go for it and picked up the basic set and both your signature sets. I can't wait for them to arrive in the mail.
Have fun!
Fantastic piece as always
Thank you! Cheers!
The fact that they sell all sorts of glass beads etc in garden stores of all places makes me wonder what american garden stores are like.
Over here all they sell is plants, pottery and dirt.
If only GW would make a set of corresponding skeletal parts - always seems odd to me that the only the skulls remain : ) Great techniques and tips, thanks!
If khorne wants all the skulls, shouldn't we have tons of skull-less remains instead of tons of skulls?
Good point!
Thanks for another great video!
My pleasure!
Thanks for the video! Also, any plan to review Vallejo Xpress colors in the near future? Would love your opinion before pulling the trigger on them
At some point, I hope to get my hands on them to give them a good test.
@@VinceVenturella I'm looking forward to it!
Thank you for another great video. Just in time as I start basing the tzeentch parts of my LOTFP army. I love the blue-green jagged flint, and I’ve seen some cool color green jade-like “black stone”. Any suggestions on how to achieve a more smoky obsidian effect?
Don't is my best advice. Obsidian is one of the most complicated things you can paint. It's something I tell people to never paint. Now that being said, if you want to do Obsidian cheaply (it won't sell perfectly, but it's passable), you're just talking about glossy black. It won't look great, but it can work.
@@VinceVenturella thank you, maybe I can find some actual glass bits like what you used in the video, that are already the obsidian look to them instead.
What kind of washes should be used on what grass-tufts? And do you already have a video with Space Station Ø base-ideas?
Just any normal Citadel wash is perfect. I don't though I have plenty of sci-fi base tutorials that will work. :)
And now I have to rebase my warriors army… Great video!
Hi Vince, Thanks fro all the helpful tips, have you got any advice for avoiding super glue stains when gluing models to bases? I've been finding it tricky to assemble the model to the base post paint job without the staining.
It's always going to happen to some degree, the key is you just clean it up quickly qith a little paint or wash over the top and it will disappear.
Hello Mr Vince first of all I love you and I wish you were my neighbor not in a creepy way
Not connected to the topic at hand, but this is your most recent video.
What is the best method/product for stripping paint from a small part of a model?
I kept changing my mind on how to do some skulls on an otherwise finished model, and now the paint on the skulls is too thick.
If it helps, I did an earlier "save state" layer with Munitorum Varnish after priming, as I like to hold the model without risking the primer coming off. I am guessing this may allow for a more aggressive option.
There aren't any really great ways, but a make-up q-tip and some 99% isopropyl alcohol can do it.
Question you have done previous videos on cuts and brushes and scars.
But what about characters like War Smith Kyr Vahlen or the Hound from Game of Thrones.
Characters where one side of their face is almost nothing BUT scar tissue, how do you paint that?
Is it just paint one scar and then another one top of it until the entire side of the face is covered with them or is there some other technique to make it look realistic?
Probably a lot of stippling, but it's not something I have really thought about. I will have to think on that.
I see you're a man of culture, using zap a gap glue.
Stipple. Scratch. Hash. Dash. Dot. Spot. Blot. Drop. Squish. Grind. Change your mind. Air, brush. Whoops too much. Dry Brush. Glaze. Amaze.
Hey Vince! Nice video. Have you tried using AK interactive terrain pastes? I found myself using their Rough Terrain instead of messing with glue+sand. Works great and doesn't cost an arm and a leg like GW
Yes I have, I use them in many basing videos in the playlist. I even have a review of them. :)
Yes!
Can you gon into what made you use different sizes of sand over something like a texture past?
Just wanted more irregularity, nothing else really. :)
So I think I might finally have a worthy video suggestion. I am probably going to get one of the AoS holiday boxes. I am undecided but either DoK, Skaven, or SCE. I was sitting looking at them again just and now and went f$@k! - the SCE dragons are on flying bases.
Like any sane hobbyist I don’t use the flight stands, but my alternate-bases-for-flying-model attempts aren’t very good. In an aesthetic (bad posing) and utilitarian sense (bad pinning I guess). I propose Hobby Cheating: Better Flight Bases! :)
That is a great idea!
@@VinceVenturella I’m excited for it someday - whenever! Just knowing I contributed alone lol…also I had stupid Primaris Inceptors come off my crappy basing jobs just yesterday! :(
As for the holiday boxes - I did have to go with the rats of course.
Hello Vince, great video, as always! Is it possible to have a "bright" base as a contrast to a darker colour scheme? I am thinking along the line of having a slightly bright coral base for an army that has a darker colour scheme. Or perhaps that would not make sense in terms of how light reflects from surfaces and so forth.
You have to be careful as if there's too much value contrast between the model and the base, people will pay more attention to the base than your figures since humans are naturally going to look at brighter things.
It would make sense, as a dark model on a dark base could end up being a little "samey". As has been already said however, making things TOO bright will draw attention away from the actual model
Yep, I agree with John, a little pop can work, but in general, if you have a high value base, you want a high value figure as well.
Thanks for the kind and pedagogical replies! I will implement them to the best of my abilities in my next project!
Vince what is that nice blue green that you first put on the rocks?
A very nice color you'll hear more about soon. ;)
Could it be a combo of some vallejo xpress I wonder :)
Great fig! What miniature range is it from?
It's the Centaur Marshall from Games Workshop.
Great Video! Here’s your engagement 🙌🏻🙌🏻
🙌
What was the paint you applied to the rocks? The bluey cyan colour?
It was a blue green like a turquoise. Anything in that area will work just fine.
@@VinceVenturella so did you mix colours to get it or use a specific paint? Looks like a speed or contrast paint?
Vince how fragile is the paint over the glass? I'm curious how the paint sticks to the smooth glass.
Once you prime it there is no issues
@@dannyward4385 Whats a good primer for that? I have vallejo surface primer.
Yep, primer will hold and that primer is perfectly fine.
Ohhh neat
Hey Vince. Thanks for the vid. I bought some crushed glass of of Amazon after your last basing video but mine ended up being super fine crushed. Almost like flecks rather than chunks. Are there size measurements on yours or a particular brand I can look up?
None of mine list size, but maybe look in home and garden? Mine came from that type of store.
Hi Vince!
Is the larger stuff called fire glass?
I've been looking for this stuff online and haven't found it yet.
FIre glass can work, though it's larger, most of this is crushed glass - amzn.to/3WiWUuH
@@VinceVenturella thanks for the help man!
I am assuming that this is the little 'rocks' you were using, and if so, do you have a recommendation for the larger 'rocks'?
Or is this also the larger rocks, just the bigger ones in the set?
@@mattweibrecht2994 Same for both, just picking the larger ones.
Thought Vincey V was the new Walter White for a sec there with that "glass"
Hi Vince. For your special gold and copper have you made a batch and bottled it? If you have, did have any problems doing this?
I don't really make a whole batch, I know some have, it wants to separate. My advice is just mix as you need it.
SO how did u prime? Black then white zenithal?
Yep
👍👍
I see you use the pilot G7 gel pen. This is the best pen.
It is absolutely the best pen.
I assume you kept the basing relatively simple because you are working on a new army? Normally you like to ad vertically, where here you didn't. You where so adamant about vertically being really important in previous video's that make me think you kept this base quite flat for a reason.
The wastes I like quite flat. :) - That being said, it's also because it's a base for a large army and my goal here was simplicity but striking. :)
@@VinceVenturella fair enough
Audio quality issues again, hard to hear you without turning the sound way up. I have to do this regularly with your videos, not a fan. Just letting you know.
Noted!
Respectfully, that was a lot of work to get a basic rocky base.