I've been Tattooing myself as a hobby for about 2years. Starting out with stick and poke then getting a gun about a year ago.I watched at least 50random youtube videos but constantly fought to get my machine to run smoothly. Then came across this mans video about springs. I've learned more in 3 of his videos than the other 50 all put together. You can really tell he wants beginners to tattoo right so you enjoy it. His Videos might be longer but they're worth every minute. Thank you an God that I found your videos.
Just let me say that this is an older video I've uploaded. Yes I'm not wearing gloves while messing with my machines. You should and I've learned that since this video was made. I learn new things every day about tattooing. You never stop learning and growing as long as you don't give up. The best thing to do is not give up and keep learning something new every day. Eventually all of that knowledge will be part of your every day tattoo practice. Tattooing will become an enjoyable process instead of something you have to struggle through.
ok so that was the old soundtrack, whew glad you changed i like the normal jam. As usual love the info. Thank you so much for all the hard work you put into these videos.
Dude..I am Soooo grateful for the knowledge about machine gun magazine.. now I have all 8 issues now..found them free on the web. Anyway thanks man!!!!! I really have learned a ton watching your channel!!!
Hi Nick. Thanks for taking the time to go over all of these informative videos. its really helpful information. the one thing I would like you to do a video on is a complete build of a color packer machine. with tuning. look forward to seeing it soon. thanks again.
I did cover liners because I had those two cheap machines I bought in the kit. Those are easy to make liners. If you think about a liner is has a light armature bar so it runs fast. You want a color packer to run slower so you put heavier armature bar. Lining ink is thin so you have short stroke. Color inks are thicker so you need longer stroke. Small gap gives you short stroke. Bigger gap gives you longer stroke. If you learn how the machine works you can tweak it to do what you want. We use the terms liner, shader, and color packer. I think we need to stop doing that. I think we should say how the machine runs. Fast and Hard hitting machine with short stroke. Fast machine with a soft hit. Slow machine with a long stroke. An artist can use several different set ups to do the same thing. How the artist works determines what they use. Most of my liners would be considered shaders. I guess what I'm trying to say is don't think about liner, shader, and color packers. Think about the changes you make to the machine that cause it to run differently.
We have reached 6,000 subscribers. That was a benchmark to see how the channel would do. I'm ready to put a lot more time and energy into the videos. I'm wanting to get better equipment to improve the quality of the channel. You can help the channel out for free. Just go to the gawkbox link below and play some games on your phone. You can also watch some videos. Help me out so I can help you out. If you don't want to play games you can donate to the channel. Just post a dontation with PayPal to jauntyartist@hotmail.com. You can also contact me at jauntyartist@hotmail.com if you need some tattoo machines fixed and tuned. For a small fee and the shipping cost I'll fix your machines. Thanks, Nick Durant www.gawkbox.com/tattoouniversity
I used to hate that when I would get a machine that had more then 2 sizes of screw heads or allen screws, get yourself one of them tattoo repair kits. Spaulding and Rogers, which is now Huck Spaulding enterprises used to sell them. its good to have spare parts. also over the years you will collect a lot . but I would change all my screws out to one allen head. makes it easy .
I agree on that. I don't like switching out my tool every time I have to adjust something on my machines. You have to make sure your screws are strong also so you don't strip them out. Once that happens it is just better to toss it and get a new one.
Hello, my question is, if its for certain that the cps/Hz will drop once loaded, should i try getting the specs(hertz, duty% ect.) tuned to show the proper readings once i have loaded the machine back up??
Wife bought me a cheap kit when I started. It had a cast aluminum machine with a skull on it. It is in a lot of my videos. I've sold and traded a lot of machines. That is the only one I will not get rid of. It is set up as a liner and I still use it.
Tattoo University that’s awesome man , I bought a kit that came with two guns I’m trying to tune one down for shading , I watched your tuning vid so I’m trying to understand the mechanics of it , will turning the power down help ? I have picked my first tatto it’s a small tribal wolf head . Looks like a good starter for me , I’m getting a bunch of needles in the mail soon , ordered the ones you like . Got some 15 ms and down and also some more round liners , and new tips that will hold a 15 mag . Shader .. I really need to invest in a cleaning unit and some bags .,
Tattoo University so if I tune a liner at 135 hz unloaded and once it’s loaded it’s ok to leave it at the different reading it’s giving while loaded ??thats bout the only thing I never understand wen tuning a machine ...
If you want it at 135 loaded then you need to set it up so it runs at 135 loaded. If it's unloaded you might have to set it to 137-140 and it could drop down to 135
Its important but you can adjust a machine without it. It is just harder and you need to know how a machine should feel and sound. Also should know the measurements you want to use. The numbers help a lot.
I purchased a few machines the other day. 1 cost me £5.49 and to other £55. The £55 was supposed to be a handmade custom machine. Turns out they are selling the Chinese machines as custom made machines. All they do is change the springs. Another note. They had an aluminium frame. Ran the machine starting at 4.3 all the way up to 11v. Didn't even work stalls trying to bog. Argued with the (builder that it needed a yoke ) He said it can have shims. I said not with an ally frame. Clearly not a builder haha
I have 2 China made guns $67 postage included 6, different colour heap or grommet 3 x6 pack of mixed needles 10 disposable ends 20 odd river bands to tighten needles,,,,,and it is fckin awesome
What I've been told is a liner can never be a shader but a shader can do lining. The variables you're looki g for are speed and length of hit for the armature bar and a bigger coil wrap, like a 10. Cuz the biger the coil wrap the slower the machine (good for shader and color pack). The smaller, like an 8 wrap, the faster the coils run(better for lining) but I'm still learning. And tattoo university is my main staple for knowledge.
I recently bought a kit from dragonhawk ( shader & liner) they say shader has longer spring but seems like i have the same spring on both machines, (small) what does that mean. Does it mean i have 2 liners instead of one liner and 1 shader?
Hello! Thank you for all your amazingly informative videos! I'm especially pleased that you don't curse and you get right to the point. I have a HUGE question that's probably really simple for a pro. Haha. My macho es are admittedly cheap Chinese mass produced aluminum alloy machines but they are my first little babies and I want to modify them to my satisfaction. I have found that the armature bar on all 4 machines I have extends way past the back of the tube. Like 2 1/2 mm to 4 mm. I wonder if this affect the hit, vibration, bend in my needle etc. Can I do so.ethi g to my rear spring, like switch to two separate springs. Or notch out the rear deck mount of the existing spring to bring g my armature bar back so the nipple li es up with the center of my tube? Am I making any sense at all? I hope to hear from you when you have time! Thank you so much for all you do!
I would adjust the spring length. Get an alignment tool and make sure your nipple lands right in the middle of the tube. If your springs are too long then cut them down to size. You can use dremmel tool or tin snips.
do you have an email I could contact you through? it would help greatly if I could get you to answer a few probably simple questions when ever you get some free time
I've been Tattooing myself as a hobby for about 2years. Starting out with stick and poke then getting a gun about a year ago.I watched at least 50random youtube videos but constantly fought to get my machine to run smoothly. Then came across this mans video about springs. I've learned more in 3 of his videos than the other 50 all put together. You can really tell he wants beginners to tattoo right so you enjoy it. His Videos might be longer but they're worth every minute. Thank you an God that I found your videos.
I have been tattooing 15 yrs and could tell ya I found the exact same thing.
Just let me say that this is an older video I've uploaded. Yes I'm not wearing gloves while messing with my machines. You should and I've learned that since this video was made. I learn new things every day about tattooing. You never stop learning and growing as long as you don't give up. The best thing to do is not give up and keep learning something new every day. Eventually all of that knowledge will be part of your every day tattoo practice. Tattooing will become an enjoyable process instead of something you have to struggle through.
ok so that was the old soundtrack, whew glad you changed i like the normal jam. As usual love the info. Thank you so much for all the hard work you put into these videos.
Your tackle box was so satisfying.
You explain things better than my mentor! Jeez if i had found this chanle a few years ago id probably still be tattooing good work man
Thank You!
Randy Brown don't give up
@ron r im trying to get back into it again my equipment got robbed
Dude..I am Soooo grateful for the knowledge about machine gun magazine.. now I have all 8 issues now..found them free on the web. Anyway thanks man!!!!! I really have learned a ton watching your channel!!!
There are a lot free things on the internet you can read. Just google free tattoo pdf's and see what comes up. Glad I could help.
Hi Nick. Thanks for taking the time to go over all of these informative videos. its really helpful information. the one thing I would like you to do a video on is a complete build of a color packer machine. with tuning. look forward to seeing it soon. thanks again.
I did cover liners because I had those two cheap machines I bought in the kit. Those are easy to make liners. If you think about a liner is has a light armature bar so it runs fast. You want a color packer to run slower so you put heavier armature bar. Lining ink is thin so you have short stroke. Color inks are thicker so you need longer stroke. Small gap gives you short stroke. Bigger gap gives you longer stroke. If you learn how the machine works you can tweak it to do what you want. We use the terms liner, shader, and color packer. I think we need to stop doing that. I think we should say how the machine runs. Fast and Hard hitting machine with short stroke. Fast machine with a soft hit. Slow machine with a long stroke. An artist can use several different set ups to do the same thing. How the artist works determines what they use. Most of my liners would be considered shaders. I guess what I'm trying to say is don't think about liner, shader, and color packers. Think about the changes you make to the machine that cause it to run differently.
I will do a video on that real soon.
you are awesome thanks buddy keep on making videos like this, I love watching them :)
no problem. A lot more videos on the way
awesome song at the beginning, headbanging and learning. What could be better
I agree
We have reached 6,000 subscribers. That was a benchmark to see how the channel would do. I'm ready to put a lot more time and energy into the videos. I'm wanting to get better equipment to improve the quality of the channel. You can help the channel out for free. Just go to the gawkbox link below and play some games on your phone. You can also watch some videos. Help me out so I can help you out. If you don't want to play games you can donate to the channel. Just post a dontation with PayPal to jauntyartist@hotmail.com. You can also contact me at jauntyartist@hotmail.com if you need some tattoo machines fixed and tuned. For a small fee and the shipping cost I'll fix your machines.
Thanks,
Nick Durant
www.gawkbox.com/tattoouniversity
Why are the contact screws for a liner almost a 90 Deg angle with the spring and 45 Deg for a color packer? Does that make a difference?
I used to hate that when I would get a machine that had more then 2 sizes of screw heads or allen screws, get yourself one of them tattoo repair kits. Spaulding and Rogers, which is now Huck Spaulding enterprises used to sell them. its good to have spare parts. also over the years you will collect a lot . but I would change all my screws out to one allen head. makes it easy .
I agree on that. I don't like switching out my tool every time I have to adjust something on my machines. You have to make sure your screws are strong also so you don't strip them out. Once that happens it is just better to toss it and get a new one.
thank you. very informative.
You are welcome
Bravoooooo👏👏👏👏👏...tnx man
Hello, my question is, if its for certain that the cps/Hz will drop once loaded, should i try getting the specs(hertz, duty% ect.) tuned to show the proper readings once i have loaded the machine back up??
Where can I get a spring tension gauge like yours???
Bro you literally have everything you need to know explained what was your first gun?
Wife bought me a cheap kit when I started. It had a cast aluminum machine with a skull on it. It is in a lot of my videos. I've sold and traded a lot of machines. That is the only one I will not get rid of. It is set up as a liner and I still use it.
Tattoo University that’s awesome man , I bought a kit that came with two guns I’m trying to tune one down for shading , I watched your tuning vid so I’m trying to understand the mechanics of it , will turning the power down help ? I have picked my first tatto it’s a small tribal wolf head . Looks like a good starter for me , I’m getting a bunch of needles in the mail soon , ordered the ones you like . Got some 15 ms and down and also some more round liners , and new tips that will hold a 15 mag . Shader .. I really need to invest in a cleaning unit and some bags .,
Tattoo University thanks for all the info man you don’t have to do this , but you are . That makes you one cool ass dude
I order a coil one kit and I got all shaders so the ? Is can I line with them too thanks
Red Sea good question
@tattoo university So the hz have to be the same as they are unloaded when is loaded .??
Your speed and duty will be different on a loaded or unloaded machine
Tattoo University so if I tune a liner at 135 hz unloaded and once it’s loaded it’s ok to leave it at the different reading it’s giving while loaded ??thats bout the only thing I never understand wen tuning a machine ...
If you want it at 135 loaded then you need to set it up so it runs at 135 loaded. If it's unloaded you might have to set it to 137-140 and it could drop down to 135
What’s up brother? What is the name of the tool with which you measure an angle front spring??
Are you thinking of the spring tension gauge? It's actually for testing the tension on the rear spring. Then you have a tool for bending springs.
I'm talking about the measuring device I mentioned in the 3.03 minute in the video, what is its name please
Spring tension gauge
Thank yo so much
how important is the duty cycle and cycles per second info if we don't have a power source that tells us
Its important but you can adjust a machine without it. It is just harder and you need to know how a machine should feel and sound. Also should know the measurements you want to use. The numbers help a lot.
I purchased a few machines the other day. 1 cost me £5.49 and to other £55. The £55 was supposed to be a handmade custom machine. Turns out they are selling the Chinese machines as custom made machines. All they do is change the springs.
Another note. They had an aluminium frame.
Ran the machine starting at 4.3 all the way up to 11v. Didn't even work stalls trying to bog.
Argued with the (builder that it needed a yoke )
He said it can have shims. I said not with an ally frame.
Clearly not a builder haha
Same to me with my micky sharpz knock offs
I have 2 China made guns $67 postage included 6, different colour heap or grommet 3 x6 pack of mixed needles 10 disposable ends 20 odd river bands to tighten needles,,,,,and it is fckin awesome
U can shade with a liner
Yes of coarse ya, can easy with the wright end and needle
What I've been told is a liner can never be a shader but a shader can do lining. The variables you're looki g for are speed and length of hit for the armature bar and a bigger coil wrap, like a 10. Cuz the biger the coil wrap the slower the machine (good for shader and color pack). The smaller, like an 8 wrap, the faster the coils run(better for lining) but I'm still learning. And tattoo university is my main staple for knowledge.
1 year 👀
I recently bought a kit from dragonhawk ( shader & liner) they say shader has longer spring but seems like i have the same spring on both machines, (small) what does that mean. Does it mean i have 2 liners instead of one liner and 1 shader?
Nickle beeing 1,95mm thick
Dime beeing 1,35mm thick
Hello! Thank you for all your amazingly informative videos! I'm especially pleased that you don't curse and you get right to the point. I have a HUGE question that's probably really simple for a pro. Haha. My macho es are admittedly cheap Chinese mass produced aluminum alloy machines but they are my first little babies and I want to modify them to my satisfaction. I have found that the armature bar on all 4 machines I have extends way past the back of the tube. Like 2 1/2 mm to 4 mm. I wonder if this affect the hit, vibration, bend in my needle etc. Can I do so.ethi g to my rear spring, like switch to two separate springs. Or notch out the rear deck mount of the existing spring to bring g my armature bar back so the nipple li es up with the center of my tube? Am I making any sense at all? I hope to hear from you when you have time! Thank you so much for all you do!
I would adjust the spring length. Get an alignment tool and make sure your nipple lands right in the middle of the tube. If your springs are too long then cut them down to size. You can use dremmel tool or tin snips.
@@TattooUniversity thanks for this!I'm going to use tin snips today! I will try to share my results/process if you would like.
@@saraw7038 watch the video I did on how to make springs
do you have an email I could contact you through? it would help greatly if I could get you to answer a few probably simple questions when ever you get some free time
jauntyartist@hotmail.com
That intro is annoying but rest is on point