Great Information! i got my first kit yesterday and i'm making sure i know as much as possible before i even open the Ink.. (Watch the Vid at x1.25 speed if you're like me)
@@gavinmcclure8047 This is why I try to stay away from the frames that do that. You can try not to over tighten them but it might still get pinched. I prefer easy to use vice that isn't part of the frame.
@@TattooUniversity yeah they tend to do the best for me. I have alittle nerve damage on my right side. so there's times I over tighten without noticing when rushed.
I am learning , thanks . I am rebuilding my equipment and what I really want to know is do you want to sell the demon machine . I have one I ran for years and would like a pair of them for shaders .
Could I configure my thin Liner Tattoo machine with a long Stroke? It make sense? I would like to have this confirmation in my machine and keep it in 140hz speed. How i could do it?
@@alejandrofernandez-cr6dm that depends on the frame of your tattoo machine. if it will allow the arm bar to travel that far and also make contact with the contact screw where it needs to be.
@@alejandrofernandez-cr6dm The arm bar will travel a further distance which will lower your cycles per second. you also have the front spring attach the arm bar making contact with the contact screw. The combination of your rear spring and the front spring and your machine allows you to adjust the length of your stroke.
You are on the right track. Practice, practice, and practice some more. Learn something new from every tattoo you do. Watch videos and read information. Then try it out next time you tattoo. Find those opportunities to sneak in some learning moments. If you are practicing shading try tattooing a tiger. This way you can practice your shading and nobody will see where you messed up. It takes years of practice to learn all of these things. After a while you don't have to think about it so much. It will come more natural.
Thank you so much for your videos, they're the best I've found for educational content. Question: Is the main difference between the liner and shader the LENGTH of the spring?
Not Scott Peterson. When I looked him up I found interesting article though. I would be shooting video from San Quentin. It is interesting how many people I sound like.
I have some of those type of cast frames I was wondering if I could cut them and reshape them leaving the base/vice and spring shelf and contact screw points and customize them to be a little lighter and less jagged around the edges? I want to fix them up but don't want to ruin their structural integrity.
You also have to remember they are cast aluminum. Steel is a little easier to cut and weld where you want it. They do have some cast machines that are rounder. You can always take it to a grinder or use a dremmel tool to smooth the edges.
you are amazing,i started tattoing like year back,started with coil machines, cheap ones on my bad side...but with your videos i adjusted them to work properly and now i know to tune coil machines, all i can say i did more than 100 tattoos with them with no problems.. and one full sleeve only after 6 months of tattooing..i was careful always about angle ,needle depth, inks i use, clients safety,voltage and all other things...i am self thought tattoo artist who wants to become a professional tattoo artist..and your videos and tutorials helped a lot..Now i buyed a good ones and i know how to tune them to work for me...To bad we dont have much people like you.. Respect from Serbia
Glad I can help. Really learning how to adjust your equipment correctly will make you a better artist. You can always just buy the newest tattoo machine and do decent work. You will never fully understand the tattooing process. Better to learn everything.
@@TattooUniversity Yes exactly.. i want to know everything i can about tattooing,about machines,aftercare ...that way improve my self and if i get into small little problem while tattooing i can identify the problem.. For me clients safety is on first postition. But i am focused on quality trying to make my own style.. I watch your videos since i started,and always watch them while i tuning machines,to do not miss anything! thanks for every video and help
There is commonly 3 different setups for machines. Liner, Shader, and Color packer. They are all different. They will act differently and leave different marks. It is easier to leave solid marks with liner and color packer. You don't want to leave solid marks while shading. It is advised to use machine set up for shading to do this.
@@TattooUniversity thanks for the reply! So would it matter what type of capacitor I use? Should I use a 47 uf like a shader or should I use the regular liner capacitor?
liners have shorter stroke and run faster. Shader has softer hit to build up pigment and doesn't run as fast. Typical liner has fat chubby spring and shader has thinner spring. Machines that come in kits aren't tuned correctly. They can have all kinds of things wrong with them. Usually need to tune them to be a liner or shader.
I don't like it. I have it because someone broke it. I tried to fix the vice but because it is plastic I can't get the vice to tighten up enough. The nut just pulls the bolt out of the plastic. I find that plastic frames work good if they are set up correctly. It is nice and light, but if the vice is going to break then I can't use it. Just my experience with it. I made a 3d printed frame that is plastic. It works really good so I'm still messing with these alternative frames.
Tatt2boyspanky3 I honestly think all these guys hating on cheap machines don't know wtf they're talking about , I use dragon hawk gear n have no issues EVER So Fuck the Haters
Hey man I been wondering on how I can improve on my line work.. I can never do one pass line work and I wanna get better at that any advice would be great
Make sure your machine is tuned for line work. Watch all the line work videos out there on the internet. Make sure you have proper ink flow and keep your needle at the same depth.
Tattoo University gotcha bud. I feel as if you have a traditional setup on a liner you can just make some adjustments and get it practically the same settings as a sculpting/Slow liner... You just don't have the different weight armature bar
This is how you adjust your machine. You know that now you can adjust. You have to think about what you want. You want slower so you add heavier bar. You want faster you get a speed bar. You want harder hitting you add more tension. Adding the weight on the armature bar will slow it down. It can still hit hard. You can make adjustments to make it hit softer also. The more you mess with it the more you figure these things out. Then you can adjust the machine the way you want it.
Tattoo University I hear ya hmmm. so the reason a color packer is set up with such a big gap and light spring and armature bar and a soft hit is because your saturating so much ink in the skin and have alot of area to fill with color but you don't want to tear up the skin but just get in a get out. right? So obviously that setup would be ideal for that? You can probably color pack with a shader but you would have to adjust it down a little bit correct?
You need more stroke if you have thicker ink. You also don't want to tear up the skin. So the bigger gap slows the machine and gives you the longer stroke. I can color pack with the shader I have. You want a harder hit. With shading I keep the voltage down. To pack color you need more hit so I up the voltage.
Just my opinion here. I think they are charging way to much for what I was seeing. Most of those machines look like they have the cheap coils on them. You can make a cheap machine work right but the coils are always going to be inferior to good ones. The reason for buying cheap machines is they are cheap. I wouldn't pay that much for one of those machines.
First 3 minutes and I’ve already learned something new.
Great Information! i got my first kit yesterday and i'm making sure i know as much as possible before i even open the Ink.. (Watch the Vid at x1.25 speed if you're like me)
Holy fuck. Alot of words but saying nothing
I miss some of my old cheap frames. I've always been a fan of the cheap front vice.
They are hard to break or mess up.
@@TattooUniversity yeah I keep haven to break out the tap and dye set .the one's I have with the side vice just don't like me haha.
@@gavinmcclure8047 This is why I try to stay away from the frames that do that. You can try not to over tighten them but it might still get pinched. I prefer easy to use vice that isn't part of the frame.
@@TattooUniversity yeah they tend to do the best for me. I have alittle nerve damage on my right side. so there's times I over tighten without noticing when rushed.
I am learning , thanks . I am rebuilding my equipment and what I really want to know is do you want to sell the demon machine . I have one I ran for years and would like a pair of them for shaders .
You really do break things down for people! Keep up the great videos! TU is always a great watch!
Could I configure my thin Liner Tattoo machine with a long Stroke? It make sense? I would like to have this confirmation in my machine and keep it in 140hz speed. How i could do it?
@@alejandrofernandez-cr6dm that depends on the frame of your tattoo machine. if it will allow the arm bar to travel that far and also make contact with the contact screw where it needs to be.
@@alejandrofernandez-cr6dm The arm bar will travel a further distance which will lower your cycles per second. you also have the front spring attach the arm bar making contact with the contact screw. The combination of your rear spring and the front spring and your machine allows you to adjust the length of your stroke.
@@TattooUniversity and it make sense to line thin lines with a long stroke? Or it is better with a short stroke?
so it depends on your machine frame if it will allow you to make those adjustments or not to get the numbers you want
Yes, I know it. But I means if I line thin neaddles with a long stroke?
should post work you do and tape yourself doing shit. Thats the best way to do it.
If you don't mind me asking where did you purchase your tension gauge? I've looked on amazon, harbor freight can't seem to find one that would work.
National tattoo supply
i love your videos, thank you for everything
You are welcome
fastiba.blogspot.com/ i am tatooing from home self taught and with the help from your teachings this is the result, once again thx
You are on the right track. Practice, practice, and practice some more. Learn something new from every tattoo you do. Watch videos and read information. Then try it out next time you tattoo. Find those opportunities to sneak in some learning moments. If you are practicing shading try tattooing a tiger. This way you can practice your shading and nobody will see where you messed up. It takes years of practice to learn all of these things. After a while you don't have to think about it so much. It will come more natural.
Thank you so much for your videos, they're the best I've found for educational content.
Question:
Is the main difference between the liner and shader the LENGTH of the spring?
What confuses me is the use of a spring with more tension for the liner. Seems to me like that would slow it down or at least soften the hit
Why does this guy sound like Scott Peterson from Modesto, Ca.... crazy lol. But good videos bro. Keep them coming.
Not Scott Peterson. When I looked him up I found interesting article though. I would be shooting video from San Quentin. It is interesting how many people I sound like.
@@TattooUniversity
ua-cam.com/video/mRz6hiGHVz0/v-deo.html
@@TattooUniversity
ua-cam.com/video/MXwhIrShmxs/v-deo.html
I have some of those type of cast frames I was wondering if I could cut them and reshape them leaving the base/vice and spring shelf and contact screw points and customize them to be a little lighter and less jagged around the edges? I want to fix them up but don't want to ruin their structural integrity.
You also have to remember they are cast aluminum. Steel is a little easier to cut and weld where you want it. They do have some cast machines that are rounder. You can always take it to a grinder or use a dremmel tool to smooth the edges.
you are amazing,i started tattoing like year back,started with coil machines, cheap ones on my bad side...but with your videos i adjusted them to work properly and now i know to tune coil machines, all i can say i did more than 100 tattoos with them with no problems.. and one full sleeve only after 6 months of tattooing..i was careful always about angle ,needle depth, inks i use, clients safety,voltage and all other things...i am self thought tattoo artist who wants to become a professional tattoo artist..and your videos and tutorials helped a lot..Now i buyed a good ones and i know how to tune them to work for me...To bad we dont have much people like you.. Respect from Serbia
Glad I can help. Really learning how to adjust your equipment correctly will make you a better artist. You can always just buy the newest tattoo machine and do decent work. You will never fully understand the tattooing process. Better to learn everything.
@@TattooUniversity Yes exactly.. i want to know everything i can about tattooing,about machines,aftercare ...that way improve my self and if i get into small little problem while tattooing i can identify the problem.. For me clients safety is on first postition. But i am focused on quality trying to make my own style.. I watch your videos since i started,and always watch them while i tuning machines,to do not miss anything! thanks for every video and help
do you have any videos on how to break down and reassemble your tattoo machines?
ua-cam.com/video/oftrUl6_5hw/v-deo.html
One ? I got all shaders on my kit and the seller told me I can line with them too is it true
actually you will get one from each or two from each in the one kit, one should be liner one should be shader
what about the color packers are they smilar to shader or sometin?
There is commonly 3 different setups for machines. Liner, Shader, and Color packer. They are all different. They will act differently and leave different marks. It is easier to leave solid marks with liner and color packer. You don't want to leave solid marks while shading. It is advised to use machine set up for shading to do this.
Thanks for all the info. What advice can you give me to build a heavy liner that will lay down solid bold lines with 9rs and above?
Need a machine that will be able to push more needles into the skin. You can get larger coils to compensate for that. Go 10 wrap or 12 wrap.
@@TattooUniversity thanks for the reply! So would it matter what type of capacitor I use? Should I use a 47 uf like a shader or should I use the regular liner capacitor?
Hey how can I contact you personally about some tattoo machines I have.
jauntyartist@hotmail.com or DM
Instagram tattoouequipment
FB Nick Durant
How could you tell which one is the shader/liner? I have 2 machine's that came in kit?
liners have shorter stroke and run faster. Shader has softer hit to build up pigment and doesn't run as fast. Typical liner has fat chubby spring and shader has thinner spring. Machines that come in kits aren't tuned correctly. They can have all kinds of things wrong with them. Usually need to tune them to be a liner or shader.
longer spring is shader and shorter spring is liner
I have a pair of those plastic raven frames. Are they any good? Or whats your opinion on them?
I don't like it. I have it because someone broke it. I tried to fix the vice but because it is plastic I can't get the vice to tighten up enough. The nut just pulls the bolt out of the plastic. I find that plastic frames work good if they are set up correctly. It is nice and light, but if the vice is going to break then I can't use it. Just my experience with it. I made a 3d printed frame that is plastic. It works really good so I'm still messing with these alternative frames.
Tatt2boyspanky3 I honestly think all these guys hating on cheap machines don't know wtf they're talking about , I use dragon hawk gear n have no issues EVER So Fuck the Haters
I have a liner machine that the spring is just burned out but don't know what gage it has...its short tho
Need to throw another one on there and tune it.
Tattoo University what gage do liners usually run on should I switch the back spring too?...im also having trouble tuning it
Hey man I been wondering on how I can improve on my line work.. I can never do one pass line work and I wanna get better at that any advice would be great
Make sure your machine is tuned for line work. Watch all the line work videos out there on the internet. Make sure you have proper ink flow and keep your needle at the same depth.
@@TattooUniversity okay thanks I started using rotary now so I'm going to have to seewhat kind of rotarygood for line work
@@stephengomez1558 find rotary set up for linework. Fast and short stroke
can you put a link in the description for the tension gauge?
www.nationaltattoo.com/Spring-Tension-Gauge-p/ma60.htm
They don't have the instruction on there any more. I'll post link when I find some
sanmartintattoo.com/index_files/Page5633.htm
So your saying that metal machines use nothing but plastic washers?
Nope. Use metal washers on plastic frames. Use metal washers on the outside of your plastic washer on metal machines
Tattoo University gotcha bud. I feel as if you have a traditional setup on a liner you can just make some adjustments and get it practically the same settings as a sculpting/Slow liner... You just don't have the different weight armature bar
This is how you adjust your machine. You know that now you can adjust. You have to think about what you want. You want slower so you add heavier bar. You want faster you get a speed bar. You want harder hitting you add more tension. Adding the weight on the armature bar will slow it down. It can still hit hard. You can make adjustments to make it hit softer also. The more you mess with it the more you figure these things out. Then you can adjust the machine the way you want it.
Tattoo University I hear ya hmmm. so the reason a color packer is set up with such a big gap and light spring and armature bar and a soft hit is because your saturating so much ink in the skin and have alot of area to fill with color but you don't want to tear up the skin but just get in a get out. right? So obviously that setup would be ideal for that? You can probably color pack with a shader but you would have to adjust it down a little bit correct?
You need more stroke if you have thicker ink. You also don't want to tear up the skin. So the bigger gap slows the machine and gives you the longer stroke. I can color pack with the shader I have. You want a harder hit. With shading I keep the voltage down. To pack color you need more hit so I up the voltage.
Hi, are the damasco machines good?
I wanted a good and inexpensive dash machine without having to mess with it, which indicates me
Just my opinion here. I think they are charging way to much for what I was seeing. Most of those machines look like they have the cheap coils on them. You can make a cheap machine work right but the coils are always going to be inferior to good ones. The reason for buying cheap machines is they are cheap. I wouldn't pay that much for one of those machines.
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