I'm having similar issues but sometimes it does not matter if its hot or cold its still struggles to start. If im using the key I have to try it once then release the key and then try it again but give it some gas and then it will crank but somewhat sluggish. I have not tried to replace the CTS but I have replace the Starter Relay Inhibiter. Started up fine once and then after that it went back to the old ways. Not only this issue but having some hesitation and lunging issues when going at a constant speed. I have done some modifications and deletions to things like the pvr and the egr but have not had a chance to get the ecu modded. Deff make a post here if you figure the prob out and ill do the same....trial and error seems to be the only thing to do since no one has found a solution on this lovely internet. Great looking Z by the way.
I have a similar problem to yours and wondering if you got yours fixed? When I start my car cold the elec fan is running and idles rough. I get periods of intermittent power when driving, they last for under a minute. I was about to replace my temp sensor. Sweet looking Z though man!
+Brad - Sorry for the late reply (been building a new home and the Z has been unfortunately neglected lately)...but no, never fixed the hot start issue. I'm hopefully doing a completely new build next spring if funds allow and I pray that maybe with some of the fuel replacement/upgraded stuff I'm doing, the issue may still not be there.
@ Zsparkybob: It's still not fixed...but then again that brand new CTS never ohm'd correctly per the FSM (it was actually my 2nd new one from Z1 since I thought the 1st new one was just a bad one that I swapped out...but if both new CTS's are bad, man! that would be just my luck, lol).... so I'm assuming it's a fuel pressure issue...and I have my PRVR deleted (but others I talked to said they've never had any issues like this w/ the PRVR being deleted)....so.... I'm doing a "process of elimination" now...I have a brand new Fuel Damper installed (that wasn't it)...and I've just ordered a brand new Fuel Pressure Regulator along with a new Fuel Check Valve (the one under the car... not the one in the tank on the fuel pump)...and they are supposed to arrive today, so hopefully I get the time to fix that soon and re-post if this fixed the issue or not.
Have you fixed it by any chance? Mine is starting to give me problems too with starting they told me it may be my tune but I don't know if it is or not lol can't find the problem :/
zer0luink - Hey zer0luink, No, I haven't fixed yet.....I actually just went by Z1 Motorsports and picked up my 3rd CTS (hopefully 3rd time/one is a charm, right? lol)....but I haven't installed it yet b/c most my tools (including my multi-meter) is packed up since I'm in the process of moving/building a new home. B/c I want to test the resistance the CTS gives off, I'll have to find my packed up multi-meter or wait until my house is finished in July and I unpack everything. I want to test this new one since all the previous brand new ones never seem to read the correct OHMS per the FSM. So if I find/unpack my stuff before July, I'll post my results....if not, it probably won't be until then that I have an update.
Unfortunately I have not had the time to try and fix the issue.... I have just left the CTS unplugged lately as a temporary fix. (My PRVR being deleted was a guess I had that may been the cause of the problem even though I haven't ever heard of PRVR deletion causing issues for anyone else).... I'm hoping that once I do all of my fuel system upgrades that it will fix the issue… We'll see…
Zsparkybob - Still not fixed unfortunately (see my reply to elosaiz?pageId=108642938985039692329).... and so with your CTS connected are you having hard cold starts, hard hot starts or what?
Pennychaser1 - I pulled this motor a while back to prep the engine bay for paint and other stuff a while back, so I never fixed the issue. When it was in there, I just left it unplugged a lot to avoid the hard warm/hot start issues and used my aftermarket water temperature sensor & gauge to monitor engine coolant temp.
Pennychaser1 - Not really.... it just keeps the auxiliary fan on.... so actually (especially with me living in the southeast), it just cooled the engine a little better. I never had any drivability issues.
Did you ever fix the issue? seems the sending unit is not grounded properly. Same issue is happening to my sons car. Bough an OEM Nissan (overpriced) see if it fixes the issue.
1970PMD - No, never fixed it... ended up pulling the motor to prep the engine bay for my paint guy (plus piston rings are bad), so just going to build the motor with new forged internals after paint & body work.... and go from there.
@@NismoDHS I highly recommend you go with a stand alone ecu, Megasquirt or something. We been chasing this gremlin for all of 1 month and no one has an answer for this issue. Stock ECU has emphasis on that sending unit and it just kills the idle. I think my son has finally had it and will rewire entire harness to a stand alone. Good luck.
1970PMD - yeah, this particular Z32 will have a Haltech.... in this video it had an OEM socketed/chipped - JWT shelf-tuned ECU (single pop, federal, 740cc, 5-speed)
Justin Carver , yeah...I don't "think" it would be the harness going back to the ECU given it's an almost brand new '95 ECU harness and in the video you can hear the difference in the engine when I remove the CTS wire (showing that signal is going to it)....but I just got the items I mentioned earlier connected (brand new Fuel Pressure Regulator and brand new Fuel Check Valve)..so I will know soon (hopefully this week or so) if that fixed the issue or not and re-post the results. (been doing some other power steering stuff at the same time and waiting on some small parts for that currently)
NismoDHS You could ohm test from the ECU harness to the CTS and make sure it's within spec to rule it out. Just something to try. Have you put the CTS in water with a thermometer to test it?
Justin Carver - No I haven't tested from the ECU to the CTS harness....there's obviously continuity per the video showing the fan cut off. Can't remember seeing what the FSM states ohms should be from the ECU to CTS though. (I was thinking continuity is the main thing, ya know?)
There could still be continuity but added resistance from corrosion/etc that is throwing off the sensors reading? Just spitballing. Ohm test the harness to check for 0 ohm continuity.
Same exact problem, thanks for the idea of pulling the sensor connector, it starts right up. I’ve been pulling my fucking hair out over this shit. Did you ever find a fix for this?
elosaiz - Nope, I installed a brand new OEM Fuel Pressure Regulator and Fuel Check Valve mentioned in my earlier post and I still have the same issue. Since plan on doing lots of stuff to the motor once I'm in my new house, I currently just leave the CTS unplugged as a temporary fix and it starts up great on hot starts every time, lol.
+elosaiz - Sorry for the late response....but nope, unfortunately no updated or good news....still finishing up things on our new home and haven't got to do hardly anything Z related.....hopefully with the new build I'm hoping to do next spring, which included fuel component upgrades, the issue won't be there.
+elosaiz - I thought about that a while back, but per the FSM, the fuel temp sensor would only trigger the ECU to tell the PRVR to do something and my PRVR is deleted. (which every thread I've read, nobody has ever had problems when deleting the PRVR...but with my luck, I'm the first, lol.) Here's one of the write-ups I was thinking about: z32.wikispaces.com/PRVR+Solenoid
your video has helped me too much I just fixed my car👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
change the cooler temperature sensor and angle problem fix
My car starts fine but that loud ass fan is always on no matter what even when the key is turned half way and the car is not on
Bad ass Z!
I'm having similar issues but sometimes it does not matter if its hot or cold its still struggles to start. If im using the key I have to try it once then release the key and then try it again but give it some gas and then it will crank but somewhat sluggish. I have not tried to replace the CTS but I have replace the Starter Relay Inhibiter. Started up fine once and then after that it went back to the old ways. Not only this issue but having some hesitation and lunging issues when going at a constant speed. I have done some modifications and deletions to things like the pvr and the egr but have not had a chance to get the ecu modded. Deff make a post here if you figure the prob out and ill do the same....trial and error seems to be the only thing to do since no one has found a solution on this lovely internet. Great looking Z by the way.
I have a similar problem to yours and wondering if you got yours fixed? When I start my car cold the elec fan is running and idles rough. I get periods of intermittent power when driving, they last for under a minute. I was about to replace my temp sensor. Sweet looking Z though man!
+Brad - Sorry for the late reply (been building a new home and the Z has been unfortunately neglected lately)...but no, never fixed the hot start issue. I'm hopefully doing a completely new build next spring if funds allow and I pray that maybe with some of the fuel replacement/upgraded stuff I'm doing, the issue may still not be there.
@ Zsparkybob: It's still not fixed...but then again that brand new CTS never ohm'd correctly per the FSM (it was actually my 2nd new one from Z1 since I thought the 1st new one was just a bad one that I swapped out...but if both new CTS's are bad, man! that would be just my luck, lol).... so I'm assuming it's a fuel pressure issue...and I have my PRVR deleted (but others I talked to said they've never had any issues like this w/ the PRVR being deleted)....so.... I'm doing a "process of elimination" now...I have a brand new Fuel Damper installed (that wasn't it)...and I've just ordered a brand new Fuel Pressure Regulator along with a new Fuel Check Valve (the one under the car... not the one in the tank on the fuel pump)...and they are supposed to arrive today, so hopefully I get the time to fix that soon and re-post if this fixed the issue or not.
Have you fixed it by any chance? Mine is starting to give me problems too with starting they told me it may be my tune but I don't know if it is or not lol can't find the problem :/
zer0luink - Hey zer0luink, No, I haven't fixed yet.....I actually just went by Z1 Motorsports and picked up my 3rd CTS (hopefully 3rd time/one is a charm, right? lol)....but I haven't installed it yet b/c most my tools (including my multi-meter) is packed up since I'm in the process of moving/building a new home. B/c I want to test the resistance the CTS gives off, I'll have to find my packed up multi-meter or wait until my house is finished in July and I unpack everything. I want to test this new one since all the previous brand new ones never seem to read the correct OHMS per the FSM. So if I find/unpack my stuff before July, I'll post my results....if not, it probably won't be until then that I have an update.
Ok, I'll post if I have a fix as well thanks for the response!
Unfortunately I have not had the time to try and fix the issue.... I have just left the CTS unplugged lately as a temporary fix. (My PRVR being deleted was a guess I had that may been the cause of the problem even though I haven't ever heard of PRVR deletion causing issues for anyone else).... I'm hoping that once I do all of my fuel system upgrades that it will fix the issue… We'll see…
That's interesting because if I unplug mine it still doesn't start.. And I've just replaced it too
Hey did you ever find out your problem? Im having similar issues except when i take the sensor off takes longer to turn on
Zsparkybob - Still not fixed unfortunately (see my reply to elosaiz?pageId=108642938985039692329).... and so with your CTS connected are you having hard cold starts, hard hot starts or what?
Having similar issues with warm start with my TT. Thinking about putting a switch to turn sensor on/off. Have you fixed the issue?
Pennychaser1 - I pulled this motor a while back to prep the engine bay for paint and other stuff a while back, so I never fixed the issue. When it was in there, I just left it unplugged a lot to avoid the hard warm/hot start issues and used my aftermarket water temperature sensor & gauge to monitor engine coolant temp.
@@NismoDHS dont you have to plug it back in so fan turns off and driveability issues? Thanks for quick reply
Pennychaser1 - Not really.... it just keeps the auxiliary fan on.... so actually (especially with me living in the southeast), it just cooled the engine a little better. I never had any drivability issues.
Did you ever fix the issue? seems the sending unit is not grounded properly. Same issue is happening to my sons car. Bough an OEM Nissan (overpriced) see if it fixes the issue.
1970PMD - No, never fixed it... ended up pulling the motor to prep the engine bay for my paint guy (plus piston rings are bad), so just going to build the motor with new forged internals after paint & body work.... and go from there.
@@NismoDHS I highly recommend you go with a stand alone ecu, Megasquirt or something. We been chasing this gremlin for all of 1 month and no one has an answer for this issue. Stock ECU has emphasis on that sending unit and it just kills the idle. I think my son has finally had it and will rewire entire harness to a stand alone. Good luck.
1970PMD - yeah, this particular Z32 will have a Haltech.... in this video it had an OEM socketed/chipped - JWT shelf-tuned ECU (single pop, federal, 740cc, 5-speed)
so...did you ever fix this? lol
exact same problem :(
MrCastr8or same
If multiple sensors don't work then the issue is most likely in your harness going back to the ECU
Justin Carver , yeah...I don't "think" it would be the harness going back to the ECU given it's an almost brand new '95 ECU harness and in the video you can hear the difference in the engine when I remove the CTS wire (showing that signal is going to it)....but I just got the items I mentioned earlier connected (brand new Fuel Pressure Regulator and brand new Fuel Check Valve)..so I will know soon (hopefully this week or so) if that fixed the issue or not and re-post the results. (been doing some other power steering stuff at the same time and waiting on some small parts for that currently)
NismoDHS You could ohm test from the ECU harness to the CTS and make sure it's within spec to rule it out. Just something to try. Have you put the CTS in water with a thermometer to test it?
Justin Carver - No I haven't tested from the ECU to the CTS harness....there's obviously continuity per the video showing the fan cut off. Can't remember seeing what the FSM states ohms should be from the ECU to CTS though. (I was thinking continuity is the main thing, ya know?)
There could still be continuity but added resistance from corrosion/etc that is throwing off the sensors reading? Just spitballing. Ohm test the harness to check for 0 ohm continuity.
did you ever fix this problem? I'm having the exact same issue
David Mepham did u ever fix?
David Mepham I’m having the same thing
Ive heard of CAS being bad doing this
Damn...ok thanks... If You resolve post the solution here please... ;)))
Same exact problem, thanks for the idea of pulling the sensor connector, it starts right up. I’ve been pulling my fucking hair out over this shit. Did you ever find a fix for this?
Hi...fixed???...;)
elosaiz - Nope, I installed a brand new OEM Fuel Pressure Regulator and Fuel Check Valve mentioned in my earlier post and I still have the same issue. Since plan on doing lots of stuff to the motor once I'm in my new house, I currently just leave the CTS unplugged as a temporary fix and it starts up great on hot starts every time, lol.
+NismoDHS ...Hi...news?...;)
+elosaiz - Sorry for the late response....but nope, unfortunately no updated or good news....still finishing up things on our new home and haven't got to do hardly anything Z related.....hopefully with the new build I'm hoping to do next spring, which included fuel component upgrades, the issue won't be there.
+NismoDHS hello friend I think the problem is the fuel temperature sensor.
have you chance it?...
+elosaiz - I thought about that a while back, but per the FSM, the fuel temp sensor would only trigger the ECU to tell the PRVR to do something and my PRVR is deleted. (which every thread I've read, nobody has ever had problems when deleting the PRVR...but with my luck, I'm the first, lol.) Here's one of the write-ups I was thinking about: z32.wikispaces.com/PRVR+Solenoid