thanks your video on how to repair honby flying Scotsman . I had one that was not working followed your video and now it's working again . many many thanks
That is a good question, I think it depends on how new the chassis is, if its tender or loco drive etc. It also depends on how old the body shell is, this particular version doesn't seem to be compatible but you could possibly modify it, although the plastic on the older body shells is likely to not hold up very well to modification. Usually the problem is the older models had a lip that the shell fits into thats absent in the newer chassis. The inside of the body may not be molded right either.
Cool I have a similar model from 1976 which I still have I may try to revive it but it has a lot more damage I may try to sorce the parts on ebay .nice vid....jim
The best way to stop the metal from rusting further is to put some paint on it which stops the air from getting to the metal causing the rusting action. I usually clean the metal first with a wire brush pencil to remove the loose rust and then paint the piece.
I was trying to keep this particular loco as original as possible. The good news is that it hasn't rusted any further in 12 years. One of the risks you run with using a wire brush pencil or sandpaper, is that you can damage the surface further, leading to more rust. This isn't an issue if you're going to paint it, but if you do this to something like the connecting rods, you run the risk of the paint wearing off in areas you might not easily see, and leading to potentially faster rusting of the surface.
Thanks... I think it may feature in some of the more recent Tri-ang track restoration videos. However its been awhile since I've given it a good run so I'll see if I can find some time over the weekend to video it... running far too many projects at once right now I am! :)
No worries. I actually repaired the ones that were on the original loco, if I remember correctly I ended up being very careful with a set of pliers! :)
Okay. So I have a problem with my flying scotsmans valve gear. The travel rod that connects the chassis to the main rods is broken and snapped from the pin/screw. The engine still runs. But how can i remove the valve gear to replace it with a new piece when i get it in?
The Hornby product number is actually in the title of the video - R.855N. I believe the "N" signifies sound. This is a nice old model but to be perfectly honest the newer Hornby versions have a lot more detail...
@matanuialive2010 i don't think it can touch the axel. as shown in the video there is a slot in the box inside the tender that keeps it aligned with the metal piece on the axel that sticks out. when this was misaligned, it wasn't making contact with the piece sticking out of the axel, and so no sound at all. let me know if it doesn't sound right though and I'll go see if I can adjust it.
I do happen to have both R.074 and R.758 versions of the Hymek. Looks like the R.074 has a standard ringfield motor, so the APT power car video (click on my channel's featured tab and its the first video in the APT-P Project playlist) should also apply to the Hymek motor. I'll see if I can get some time over the weekend to put together a Hymek video for you though.
I found it on eBay. If you search for R855 or R850/5 on eBay, 4472 or Flying Scotsman and then limit the category to model trains either on eBay.com or eBay.co.uk you should be able to find one. The one here is R855 with realistic chuffing sound and glowing firebox. I did a quick look on eBay and there are at least two of these on there today.
Do you know which model number of Flying Scotsman it is? Does it do this all the time or only some of the time? I would start by looking around the wheels, make sure you don't have a track pin shorting the wheels off the chassis. If that isn't the problem, have a look for loose or damaged wires, or solder joints that maybe touching anything metal on the loco.
Yes, this is compounded by the fact that most of last year I was filming videos after 1am in the morning!! I don't think its fair to edit that sort of thing out, nobody gets this stuff perfect on the first go!! :)
The carbon brush holder broke on my model. It ran, and the motor started smoking, and seized, I am slowly trying to fix it, but I don't know the motor used either, any suggestions? I don't know the motor model, it is the same one that yours is.
Which model is it? If its an X04/X03 motor, the carbon brush holder (copper piece) can be bought as part of the replacement brush. Usually its sold with the copper piece and the head. Although you can buy the heads without the copper piece and solder it on.
LOL.. yeah the train noise in the videos can get quite loud. Its not actually that bad in reality, the whole layout is suspended about 5' in the air using shelves with C or U shaped brackets made from 2x4s, this leaves large sections of the baseboard with nothing underneath at all which seems to amplify the noise level. If I put the video camera on the tripod on the baseboard, it tends to have the sound amplified via vibration as well. Its not nearly as bad as it sounds though :)
I am using iMove '11 on an Apple MacBook Pro (circa 2008) with 4GB ram. The video is shot in HD using a Canon HG10. I am using the Vignette video effect in most of the videos, this darkens the border of the video and pulls the viewer into the center of the frame. I just have to make sure when I record the video that it is properly centered. Not something I get right 100% of the time :)
It is an X.04 worm gear motor. They are pretty serviceable, you may need new brushes and those can be soldered onto the copper plates. Even the magnets can be re-magnetized. Too bad they don't make motors like this any more..
Railwaytube I order British stock on-line, Hattons and Hornby both do 1-2 day shipping via DHL for less than £15. Hornby will ship it for free if you order over a certain amount. I also order items from Kernow Model Centre, Rails of Sheffield, Olivia's Trains and The Model Centre in the UK. I get some items from Model Railway Imports and Britannia Models in Canada, and I typically get paint from Hornby (US) and Hobby Linc here in the States. I use the eBay app on my phone to check for new listings, and sometimes pickup second hand locos on there. eBay in the US has a lot more bargains on it, and lot less punters on it, than eBay UK :)
Railwaytube Model Railway Imports of St. Catherines, Ontario, Canada, across the Niagara River and Falls, sells Canada/US transformers/power pack bricks, for British train sets and separately. When they sell a British Hornby or Bachmann train set they switch out the British transformer for a North American transformer. If you are buying a British train set from the UK, you will have to buy a North American transformer converting 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts.
I know this is a late comment but here is a tip... Take off the small pony wheels off before u take the shell off and then put the shell back on befor the small pony wheels
Looks like part of your comment was truncated? Some of the *really* old Tri-ang locomotives have issues on the Atlas track because the rails aren't deep enough, this causes the wheel to hit the plastic piece on the sleeper that the rail sits in. These locomotives have issues running on straight track. The not quite as old versions sometimes have issues with finer points like Peco and Atlas, usually due to the front bogie wheels. You can sometimes fix this by adjusting them.
Hello All, I am a newbie in the model train field. I did some research and bought a an old flying scots man 4472 R855. I still haven't bought any tracks or controllers, could you please direct me you all wise people. As it needs old analogue controllers????? Confused Thanks Niel
For an old loco like that you will probably want at a minimum something along the lines of the Bachmann DC / Analog controller, they are pretty cheap though. Search the eHattons or other sites for Bachmann 36-560. Alternatively, since you don't have track either, maybe pickup a trainset to get start?
Very well documented and explained in great detail.However,I fail to understand why you use the blade of a pen knife to loosen and tighten screws when,as is quite obviously shown,you do own a set of miniature screw drivers?Pen knife blades are the last thing a modeller should use for this purpose.The bogie screws used on this and most other Triang models are made of brass and once the heads are damaged,it is a bit tough to procure the originals as these models are very old.
Bad habit :) That particular pen knife is rather old so the blade is pretty much dull. The metal on the blade is lighter and thinner than the metal on a typical miniature screwdrivers. So using the blade you can't over tighten nor easily mangle the screw head while you tighten or loosen the screws. With most of those brass heads, the pen knife blade will chip before the screw head does. As for acquiring the screws, you can buy mixed-bags of screws on eBay pretty cheaply...
The ringfield motors should be pretty much the same. Have a look at the APT-P power car repair video on my channel. I will be uploading a tender driven Hornby locomotive repair video shortly which should work for the ringfield railroad version (assuming its tender drive)..
Yes OO gauge trains run on HO/OO scale track, its basically the same stuff. The difference between OO scale and HO scale is that the OO scale trains and rolling stock etc are bigger.
Those are all great choices, I think the Flying Scotsman is one of those must have iconic steam locomotives. Although Dapol have some fantastic Black Label A4s (like the Mallard) if its within your budget. Hattons currently have a few King Class Locomotives discounted, as long as you don't have any curves below 18" radius or second radius (Hornby/Peco) you should be fine. Personally, my favorite steam locomotive is the LNER K3 2-6-0, which is available as a Bachmann model.
This has to be the most frequently asked question I get. I should do an FAQ video or something! :) Seriously though, I have a video coming out towards the end of the weekend, probably Sunday evening or Monday depending on how things go that will answer this very question :)
radeakins Oh I'm not American, I just live in the States now. I'm originally from Welwyn Garden City. The layout is a fairly decent size, so I'm lucky in that I can model a couple of different regions in each section. I still have to complete the baseboards for the third and final phase over Christmas! :) The Chippenham Jn part of the layout is based on BR Western Region around the Bristol / Bath region, mainly because I liked the look of the Sydney Gardens location, and loosely modeled part of the layout on that. I'm working on the layout in such a way that I can swap in/out rolling stock to change the era...
I see an ex-pat. You've really picked up the accent. I'm planning a few layouts with my brother. He wants Sountern Region during the early 60's and I want LNER Grimsby/Cleethorpes around 1950. But my brother and his missus have an addition on the way, he wants me to house his prized Triang TT collection and set up a layout. So I have to fit three layout in the attic of an old council house.
Ah yes, people over here think my accent is from Canada! I've been here in the States for almost 15 years, and I spent a few years in Ireland prior to that as well. Plus I tend to pickup accents pretty quickly! I've got three kids myself, so the layout here is about 5 feet off the ground bolted to the wall, it also keeps our large Alaskan Malamute and cats from messing with it as well. You maybe able to do something similar at different levels, I was thinking of running one layout above the other, one at 3' and another at 5', right now I use the baseboards at 3' for storage...
thanks your video on how to repair honby flying Scotsman . I had one that was not working followed your video and now it's working again . many many thanks
Very nice video mate! I have the old Hornby flying Scotsman and I got it in perfect shape and it runs well and it was for £10.
That is a good question, I think it depends on how new the chassis is, if its tender or loco drive etc. It also depends on how old the body shell is, this particular version doesn't seem to be compatible but you could possibly modify it, although the plastic on the older body shells is likely to not hold up very well to modification. Usually the problem is the older models had a lip that the shell fits into thats absent in the newer chassis. The inside of the body may not be molded right either.
Cool I have a similar model from 1976 which I still have I may try to revive it but it has a lot more damage I may try to sorce the parts on ebay .nice vid....jim
wow nice, that is one great Scotsman train.
did you oil all of the correct area's and bearings ?
The best way to stop the metal from rusting further is to put some paint on it which stops the air from getting to the metal causing the rusting action. I usually clean the metal first with a wire brush pencil to remove the loose rust and then paint the piece.
I was trying to keep this particular loco as original as possible. The good news is that it hasn't rusted any further in 12 years. One of the risks you run with using a wire brush pencil or sandpaper, is that you can damage the surface further, leading to more rust. This isn't an issue if you're going to paint it, but if you do this to something like the connecting rods, you run the risk of the paint wearing off in areas you might not easily see, and leading to potentially faster rusting of the surface.
I would like to see a video of the old Scott you have here with the firebox flicker working. Nice vid mate! Very impressive work! :)
Thanks... I think it may feature in some of the more recent Tri-ang track restoration videos. However its been awhile since I've given it a good run so I'll see if I can find some time over the weekend to video it... running far too many projects at once right now I am! :)
oorail.com I think it may feature in this video - oorail.com | Reviving old Tri-ang Hornby Train sets from the 1960s
I will have to look these vids up.
No worries. I actually repaired the ones that were on the original loco, if I remember correctly I ended up being very careful with a set of pliers! :)
Is that the Flying Scotsman with realistic chuffing sound? I love the Flying Scotsman with realistic chuffing sound.
Damn, that flicker thing sounds pretty good actually
Very good and informative video, seems you have trouble with the small screws as I do - "all thumbs" when I try putting them back in
Nice video!
Okay. So I have a problem with my flying scotsmans valve gear. The travel rod that connects the chassis to the main rods is broken and snapped from the pin/screw. The engine still runs. But how can i remove the valve gear to replace it with a new piece when i get it in?
The Hornby product number is actually in the title of the video - R.855N. I believe the "N" signifies sound. This is a nice old model but to be perfectly honest the newer Hornby versions have a lot more detail...
@matanuialive2010 i don't think it can touch the axel. as shown in the video there is a slot in the box inside the tender that keeps it aligned with the metal piece on the axel that sticks out. when this was misaligned, it wasn't making contact with the piece sticking out of the axel, and so no sound at all. let me know if it doesn't sound right though and I'll go see if I can adjust it.
Good video
hey man, do you know what the hornby product number is for this.
I do happen to have both R.074 and R.758 versions of the Hymek. Looks like the R.074 has a standard ringfield motor, so the APT power car video (click on my channel's featured tab and its the first video in the APT-P Project playlist) should also apply to the Hymek motor. I'll see if I can get some time over the weekend to put together a Hymek video for you though.
As per James May's example on "James May's Toy Stories" - with "Realistic Chuffing Sound™"
I found it on eBay. If you search for R855 or R850/5 on eBay, 4472 or Flying Scotsman and then limit the category to model trains either on eBay.com or eBay.co.uk you should be able to find one. The one here is R855 with realistic chuffing sound and glowing firebox. I did a quick look on eBay and there are at least two of these on there today.
My flying Scotsman sparks where the wheels touch the rails and short circuits the controller every time
Do you know which model number of Flying Scotsman it is? Does it do this all the time or only some of the time? I would start by looking around the wheels, make sure you don't have a track pin shorting the wheels off the chassis. If that isn't the problem, have a look for loose or damaged wires, or solder joints that maybe touching anything metal on the loco.
@@Oorail it has chuff chuff sound in the tender and no firebox Flickr
Yes, this is compounded by the fact that most of last year I was filming videos after 1am in the morning!! I don't think its fair to edit that sort of thing out, nobody gets this stuff perfect on the first go!! :)
The carbon brush holder broke on my model. It ran, and the motor started smoking, and seized, I am slowly trying to fix it, but I don't know the motor used either, any suggestions? I don't know the motor model, it is the same one that yours is.
Which model is it? If its an X04/X03 motor, the carbon brush holder (copper piece) can be bought as part of the replacement brush. Usually its sold with the copper piece and the head. Although you can buy the heads without the copper piece and solder it on.
LOL.. yeah the train noise in the videos can get quite loud. Its not actually that bad in reality, the whole layout is suspended about 5' in the air using shelves with C or U shaped brackets made from 2x4s, this leaves large sections of the baseboard with nothing underneath at all which seems to amplify the noise level. If I put the video camera on the tripod on the baseboard, it tends to have the sound amplified via vibration as well. Its not nearly as bad as it sounds though :)
I am using iMove '11 on an Apple MacBook Pro (circa 2008) with 4GB ram. The video is shot in HD using a Canon HG10. I am using the Vignette video effect in most of the videos, this darkens the border of the video and pulls the viewer into the center of the frame. I just have to make sure when I record the video that it is properly centered. Not something I get right 100% of the time :)
hi! the motor who is in this model ( the motor who i see in your video), is a 3 poles motor or gearbox?
It is an X.04 worm gear motor. They are pretty serviceable, you may need new brushes and those can be soldered onto the copper plates. Even the magnets can be re-magnetized. Too bad they don't make motors like this any more..
You need to put some track underlay to dampen the noise of your trains running on an hard surface :-)
How do you buy british stock in the states?
Railwaytube I order British stock on-line, Hattons and Hornby both do 1-2 day shipping via DHL for less than £15. Hornby will ship it for free if you order over a certain amount. I also order items from Kernow Model Centre, Rails of Sheffield, Olivia's Trains and The Model Centre in the UK. I get some items from Model Railway Imports and Britannia Models in Canada, and I typically get paint from Hornby (US) and Hobby Linc here in the States. I use the eBay app on my phone to check for new listings, and sometimes pickup second hand locos on there. eBay in the US has a lot more bargains on it, and lot less punters on it, than eBay UK :)
oorail.com Thanks! Have a Great day!
Railwaytube Model Railway Imports of St. Catherines, Ontario, Canada, across the Niagara River and Falls, sells Canada/US transformers/power pack bricks, for British train sets and separately. When they sell a British Hornby or Bachmann train set they switch out the British transformer for a North American transformer. If you are buying a British train set from the UK, you will have to buy a North American transformer converting 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts.
yes. i used a synthetic plastic safe oil.
I know this is a late comment but here is a tip...
Take off the small pony wheels off before u take the shell off and then put the shell back on befor the small pony wheels
As a suggestion, I always reinstall screws which I have removed temparioarely from places where there could be some confusion.
Paul Johnston Thats actually a pretty good idea! :)
Paul Johnston
Looks like part of your comment was truncated? Some of the *really* old Tri-ang locomotives have issues on the Atlas track because the rails aren't deep enough, this causes the wheel to hit the plastic piece on the sleeper that the rail sits in. These locomotives have issues running on straight track. The not quite as old versions sometimes have issues with finer points like Peco and Atlas, usually due to the front bogie wheels. You can sometimes fix this by adjusting them.
Hello All, I am a newbie in the model train field.
I did some research and bought a an old flying scots man 4472 R855.
I still haven't bought any tracks or controllers, could you please direct me you all wise people. As it needs old analogue controllers????? Confused
Thanks
Niel
For an old loco like that you will probably want at a minimum something along the lines of the Bachmann DC / Analog controller, they are pretty cheap though. Search the eHattons or other sites for Bachmann 36-560. Alternatively, since you don't have track either, maybe pickup a trainset to get start?
Very well documented and explained in great detail.However,I fail to understand why you use the blade of a pen knife to loosen and tighten screws when,as is quite obviously shown,you do own a set of miniature screw drivers?Pen knife blades are the last thing a modeller should use for this purpose.The bogie screws used on this and most other Triang models are made of brass and once the heads are damaged,it is a bit tough to procure the originals as these models are very old.
Bad habit :) That particular pen knife is rather old so the blade is pretty much dull. The metal on the blade is lighter and thinner than the metal on a typical miniature screwdrivers. So using the blade you can't over tighten nor easily mangle the screw head while you tighten or loosen the screws. With most of those brass heads, the pen knife blade will chip before the screw head does. As for acquiring the screws, you can buy mixed-bags of screws on eBay pretty cheaply...
The ringfield motors should be pretty much the same. Have a look at the APT-P power car repair video on my channel. I will be uploading a tender driven Hornby locomotive repair video shortly which should work for the ringfield railroad version (assuming its tender drive)..
Can OO gauge Trains run on Ho scale track?
Yes OO gauge trains run on HO/OO scale track, its basically the same
stuff. The difference between OO scale and HO scale is that the OO scale
trains and rolling stock etc are bigger.
oorail.com That is great because I have an HO scale layout. What should I get? Mallard, Flying Scotsman, or Dutch?
Those are all great choices, I think the Flying Scotsman is one of those must have iconic steam locomotives. Although Dapol have some fantastic Black Label A4s (like the Mallard) if its within your budget. Hattons currently have a few King Class Locomotives discounted, as long as you don't have any curves below 18" radius or second radius (Hornby/Peco)
you should be fine. Personally, my favorite steam locomotive is the LNER K3 2-6-0, which is available as a Bachmann model.
I liked
Where are you from boss? Your accent is hard to place!
This has to be the most frequently asked question I get. I should do an FAQ video or something! :) Seriously though, I have a video coming out towards the end of the weekend, probably Sunday evening or Monday depending on how things go that will answer this very question :)
I'm surprised to see an American taking an interest British railways. Which region are you doing? I personally prefer LNER
radeakins Oh I'm not American, I just live in the States now. I'm originally from Welwyn Garden City. The layout is a fairly decent size, so I'm lucky in that I can model a couple of different regions in each section. I still have to complete the baseboards for the third and final phase over Christmas! :) The Chippenham Jn part of the layout is based on BR Western Region around the Bristol / Bath region, mainly because I liked the look of the Sydney Gardens location, and loosely modeled part of the layout on that. I'm working on the layout in such a way that I can swap in/out rolling stock to change the era...
I see an ex-pat. You've really picked up the accent. I'm planning a few layouts with my brother. He wants Sountern Region during the early 60's and I want LNER Grimsby/Cleethorpes around 1950. But my brother and his missus have an addition on the way, he wants me to house his prized Triang TT collection and set up a layout. So I have to fit three layout in the attic of an old council house.
Ah yes, people over here think my accent is from Canada! I've been here in the States for almost 15 years, and I spent a few years in Ireland prior to that as well. Plus I tend to pickup accents pretty quickly!
I've got three kids myself, so the layout here is about 5 feet off the ground bolted to the wall, it also keeps our large Alaskan Malamute and cats from messing with it as well.
You maybe able to do something similar at different levels, I was thinking of running one layout above the other, one at 3' and another at 5', right now I use the baseboards at 3' for storage...
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