Fixing a sagging door on an 88-98 Chevy 1500
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2022
- Cunningham Machine Bushings:
www.cunninghammachine.com/pro...
Parts:
All parts can be found on Rockauto.
Door Roller Pin: Dorman 38433
Door lock Solenoid: Standard Motor Product DLA8
Door Pins: GM Genuine 88891731
Door Hinge: GM Genuine 19354125
Door Latch: SKP SK940102
Door Striker Washer: LMC 31-2900
Door Striker: Dorman 38428
Door Spring Tool: GM W84603
I'm so invested! I yelled "Yay!" When the hinge finally came off!
If I had not watched this (hinge removal), I would never have believed how challenging it is. Thanks.
Praise God! Thank you so much for posting this video. I gotta say. I have been so frustrated with my driver side door on my 97 Chevy K-1500 Pickup. Little by little, the door hang kept getting worse and worse.
I spoke to a friend of mine that knows some things about body work and he recommended changing the pins and bushings.We weren't aware that there were higher quality bushings available so we just kept having to use the cheap ones you can get from a local auto parts store. We've now done that several times and the bushings last a while, but then they get destroyed rapidly. We considered changing the hinges, but they were welded on and were hesitant to tackle all that. But your video explains the process in an easy to understand way. We also appreciate the way you take time to show the pieces and explain the process. That is big for DIYers. Also, thanks for showing the bonus of changing our the latch assembly and the striker. Best to fix it right all at once. Thanks again. God's blessings to you and your family.
FINALLY! A video that shows how to ACTUALLY do a job vs. THEORETICALLY how it is supposed to be done. Well worth watching.
One tip for a depth stop that works better than tape. . . Cut a length of vacuum hose or fuel line hose of a size that will slip over your drill bit.
Nice showing what happens in the real world, when something simple, ain't so simple but you handled it
I replaced the pins and bushings on mine, the door still didn't align just right. I placed a floor jack under the latch side of the door on the nearly closed position and lifted the crap out of it to bend everything back into place. It shuts with one finger now. Perfect.
Thanks for the video and for a very clear explanation this makes me more confident in working on my door,thanks.
Dude I replaced all of my door internals. Cleaned up the old panel, painted fresh coat of black, new interior handles/exterior handles,door latch actuator, electric lock actuator, window motor + mechanisms. Worth it. Now that I know we can bolt on a new hinge for the doors... Thats my next big goal. Atm i'm still looking for a way to jack my passenger door for a less rub on the new door latch. Gave me the perfect time for cleaning the inside of the door and painting a few patina'd rust spots on the door and one under the cab.
Can't stop watching this channel since I found it.
After looking up the price of the parts they're almost as much as what my 91 Chevy is worth. lol. Although I do have a motor that has less than 30k on it that I installed 15 years ago, (I don't do much driving) and a fairly new tranny and I also replaced the guts in the rear end not over 15 years ago, I had my own repair business for close to 30 years and had replaced those bushings several times. I can tell you one thing if you want QUALITY Dorman is the last place to look, their stuff is rock bottom, take it from a 40 year mechanic. I must say you have the best and most detailed video on UA-cam for doing this job the RIGHT way. I may have to muster up the energy and the pesos to do this job, Thanks to you. Job well done!!!
well done I own a 91 GMC 1500 shorty and this needs to be done on drivers side door , THANK YOU YOUNG MAN .
When removing the knurles from that pin, put the pin in a drill and spin it while holding sandpaper around it. You will get a cleaner, more rounded pin than what you will get from a grinder.
Good idea!
AWSOME !!! And thanks for the Cunningham Machinery tip. HIGH quality parts and the bushings install tool is the beast!!!!
Great video.
Too bad the door side holes were egged. 99.99999% of the time, you only need to replace the bushings. This is a good video to show you that, if you wait too long to do this minor job, your making more work for yourself later. I'll offer everyone a tip here; A motorcycle lift works great to get the door off and on solo. Those doors are way heavier then they look, so man up. If your as deep as SR got, take the time to por-15 the bottom of the windows and bottom of the door.
Cunningham Machine also sales an oversized bushing that you drill your hinges out for. Specifically to keep you from having to replace the hinges
no kiddin on the doors are wayyyyy heavier than then look lmao
Quite professional , something youv,e made so much easier for me on my '92 1500 ,thanks.
You're my driver side door is like that too but it's it's really bad I like watching your videos you're really helpful thank you
Great video, i have to do everything you did. Thanks for sharing
Excellent video! Thanks.
34:00 You can use a long bolt and pull both bushings in at the same time.
I always put new pin and bushings in freezer overnight
Great video ! It encouraged me Not to do it Too Much time !
I had the same issue with the door lock solenoid from LMC Truck. Non of the mounting hardware that came with the solenoid worked.
marvelous worke👏👏👏 thank you man🙏🙏
That door sure closes nice.
Great video. I have a 90 k1500 and the drivers door barely latches.
I wonder if die grinder with a flat-ended bit would work better to clean up those holes than a four-flute end mill in a drill?
This page kicks so much ass!
well done mate,,, what a nightmare of a job, easyier to buy another vehicle that doesnt need this work. there cheap as chips in America.
very good video and these parts replace will last another 30 years. from Australia
changed my pins and 2 of the brass bushes cracked, there are chinese versions made from mild steel... much better.
where at?
Great video! I tried the weld and drill method and it barely helped. I think shimming the hinge is where it's at.
@Joseph Astier Thanks for the comment and good to know!
The hinge holes if they are worn, are typically rubbed to be larger in diameter, not stretched right? So hypothetically, you could refurb the original hinge by filling the enlarged hole in and retapping it? Like fill in with a small piece of metal, weld it in place, then retap?
Yes, you could theoretically weld the hole to reduce the size and then drill it out to the right size again. The hard part would be getting a drill straight and centered on the hole. I think this would be pretty much impossible.
Do you need a door spring? Will not having a door spring have any effect on the door pinion and bushing as far as sag is concerned?
@Dominic Dalton We re-used the original door spring. The door spring should not impact sag
@@SuburbanRanch ok thank you
Next time you need to have a flat bottom hole order a piloted counter bore the size hole you need. you will drill a smaller pilot hole to locate the hole and the counter bore will not walk around like the endmill does.
@Bobby Bishop Good to know!
Why not just replace the factory bushings with machined brass available on the net for $30. No need to mess with unplugging all that. You will have to watch a video taking the door apart some to change the bushings. I got really good at it trying to use the cast bushings that will fail immediately due to door pin holes No longer being round. The machined brass bushings will correct this and the doors will stay lined up.
Doing the exact same thing, except I'm not going to bother with the hinge.
New window motor, new rods, new actuator, new latch, plus patching some worn wires in the wiring harness. Figure I might as well do the hinge pins while I'm there. Roller pin looks OK.
First time I did the hinge pins and roller years and years ago I took a hammer to them to force them into the hole. Don't do that. Bad idea LOL. I have a small 1 inch crack in my windshield as a reminder of my young stupidity.
I know a easier way to fix a door hinge last work then this way In the video lol what I did to fix’s my hinge I cut the ear off the hinge where the pin goes through and welded a new ear back on and put door back on easy way out
Just curious, what paint did you end up using on your frame?
@Hurlcat Rustoleum primer and paint
Curious how long this took you overall. Also, I don't have 80% of those tools, which makes me wonder if it's ultimately worth the time it would take me to get the tools, their cost, etc. (I realize this is an argument for/against DIY itself, so glad to at least know what it's gonna take to do this myself)
Replacing the hinge is an all day job, maybe more! Especially if you need to go to the store a bunch of times haha.
Cunningham machine makes oversized bushing, did you consider trying that method to repair. short 9/16 drill bit required.
@michelle surabian We did not, couldn’t get a drill straight on the hole
Did you try using a right angle drill?
We did not try a right angle drill, but it is a very tight spot to work in.
Thanks, Your K1500 videos are great.
You have a lot of good tips, grinding the ridges off the pain is not one of them. The ridges are there to lock the pin in place. Using sandpaper on the inside of the bushings is also not good idea. The bushings are smooth and you ruffed it up and cause friction.
@Jined420 The roller pin is way too tight with the ridges, you will bend the hinge hammering it in. It is still a snug fit after your grind the ridges down a bit.
The bushings were also way too tight on the new door pin. Hammering a door pin into a brass bushing that is too tight will do a lot more damage in the way of scratching and gouging than an emery cloth will ever do.
Spot weld my truck has 3/4 diameter' booger welds
Why did you not use the Original Door Lock Solinoid Bracket, and just move the new Lock Solinoid onto the old Bracket?
The new solenoid and old bracket didn’t quite line up or we would have.
Check..
@@SuburbanRanch
I have a question out of the blue maybe you might know or someone on here…I’m need that spair tire carrier/ support mine is gone and I look on line and LMC truck no luck
@Damon Lawson I would look at junkyards.
I thought you would have the complete hinge, I'm in that process but I was looking for videos and lost, I found half of the process, it's going to be difficult
@Sergio Chavira We only replaced the door side of the hinge, the truck side was still in good shape.
Where can I buy that spray paint to match our Chevy blue?
@Andres Castro www.automotivetouchup.com
sooo unfortunately I got my 1994 2500 silverado post military but I am not a car guy so I didnt know what to look for. My doors are sagging and I have started trying to learn and my driver side door upper hinge has no bushings and now is eggshaped. Any way to salvage without having to replace the whole thing?
Not really. Some people have commented on drilling out the hole and using an oversized bushing, but I don’t see a way to get a drill square to the hinge to drill a nice hole.
@@SuburbanRanch shoot, well alright thank you.
What was on the tip of that sharpie marker to mark yrr holes?
@HAMMER We wrapped electrical tape around the marker to be the same size as the hole so that it would be centered.
@@SuburbanRanch savvy. Thank you!
A Rotabroach tool is a far better, safer and quicker way to remove the spot welds. Using an end mill in a hand-held application like this is straight-up dangerous. A Rotabroach kit isn't necessarily cheap. but if you're the kind of guy who's going to replace his own door hinges, you'll absolutely find more uses for it.
@tmx63 That’s good to know, never heard of this tool!
Couldn't you weld the holes and re drill?
No way to get a drill straight onto the holes.
Did you ever feel like it would have been easier to just mill the hinge off?
I don’t have any experience milling!
Where did you buy yrr parts? Lmc?
Rockauto
Did u take the glass out?
@BeachRival -DIEX- We did not. We taped the glass in the up position with painters tape.
@@SuburbanRanch did you have it rolled up
@@SuburbanRanch and would it be the same with non powered windows and locks like same parts and everything
@BeachRival -DIEX- Not sure on the part numbers with non power windows and locks. I imagine the procedure is pretty similar.
@@SuburbanRanch ok thanks i will try it soon hope it goes well😂😂😭
Where do you find tork for all bolt
@math arteau It was printed on the instructions that came with the hinge.
Ok thanks
Not I saith the fly.....I would have ground down the old hinge area, and with spot welded new hinge to door within the existing holes. Then, predrilled four more holes smaller than same sized bolts, but instead of using those, I would install self tapping screws (correctly sized of coarse) also. That, ole chap, would allow me to leave the door panel and all the clips, rods, etc as they were to begin with. This technique is as good, if not better, and much faster!!!! Ok, now, how bout some input. Oh, and the bolt heads of self tapping screws? I would also put a dimple at edge of head and into the hinge which will keep self tapping screws from backing out!!!! "God gave us brains. They are not hat racks! Use thy brains, Brotherman!
Who sells the replacement hinge?
@Earle Clemans I bought the replacement hinge on eBay. But if you google the part number (in the description) it looks like Amazon sells it as well.
Google Cunningham machine door bushings
Those are Cunningham machine bushings!
@Suburban Ranch you could've used oversized bushings and save time replacing the hinge
We could not find a way to get a drill perpendicular to the hinge.
How much is that cost for labor 🤔
@whsein44 Sorry, I honestly have no idea
Labor at shops around me is close to or a little over $100/HR and at a 5-6 hour job, it adds up quick. You’d be better off doing it yourself or paying a “shade tree” mechanic a couple hundred to do it.
Seems like a lot of unnecessary work to replace the whole hinge, I would just tig weld the bushing holes shut one at a time, re drill , then install new pins and bushings, especially after seeing the trouble you had getting it off
@Nitrous Boyz You can’t get a drill straight on the hole, but I’d love to see someone actually do this because we did consider it.
@@SuburbanRanch maybe make a Jig with a drill guide and use a 90°angle drill, if it's something you do often it would be worth it (something that fits over the top ear of the hinge and can be flipped for the bottom)
Thats alot of work, unless u need to replace solenoids, latchs, window motor, etc,
I worked at a chevy dealership body shop back in the 90s. We NEVER replaced the hinge. We always welded and drilled.
I tried that exact method and it didn't change anything. And I made sure to center the new holes where they are supposed to be. What worked in this video was the ability to shim the new hinge plate by trial and error until the door lined up perfectly. That easy adjustability (which Chevy should have done from the start) is the key.
Do you have a shop ?
No we don’t.
@@SuburbanRanch wondering if there is a good replacement kit for a 1999 gmc suburban door. I replaced the hinge pins many times but the repair only works for a few months. Thanks for the response btw
@jimmytheviking4885 sounds like maybe you need new hinges.
@@SuburbanRanch I agree with you I was wondering if the kit you showed in video you posted would work for a 99 suburban hinge just curious
Can you help me with my truck?
@erick dominguez Maybe after I finish mine!
@@SuburbanRanch haha appreciate it man
Wouldn’t it be easier if some brainchild just creates larger bushings and home out the exiting holes? This just seems like way too much trouble. I’ll just keep my sagging door. It’s not like I’m falling out.
@Francisco Burgos There is no space to get a drill into this area to increase the hole size unfortunately
Cunningham Machine sells exactly this and is done by using a right angle drill. Hit up Jeremy Rogers for more help
If the oversized bushings had offset holes, it could work.
Would it not have been simple enough to just drill two new right sized holes in the door lock cylinder mount bracket to accept the suplied rivets?
Do you mean drill new holes for bushings? If so, there is no space to get a drill square to the hinge.
@@SuburbanRanchno I meant on the bracket that you had to teim and then find bolt and nut for
The holes in the door panel were too large for the supplied rivets. Also the bolt allows for easy replacement or removal in the future
@@SuburbanRanch ok I can see your not even trying to read and understand my original statement. Thanks.
I’m sorry. I am trying. My last comment was pertaining to the the lock solenoid. The new rivets and holes in the bracket were smaller than the original holes in the door. Thus we would have had to go to a larger rivet or the nut and bolt method. We opted for the nut and bolt so we could remove it in the future if needed. But yes if you drilled a larger hole and used larger rivets that would work also. Again sorry if we are still on different pages.
bust thing it
Too many ads
Dam good information thank you
I'm just curious but doesn't that door lock actuator have the same footprint as the old one? Only asking because they both seemed to be bolted at the bottom making the whole bracket removal a little pointless.. but correct me if I'm wrong please lmao.
@Steevo773 While very similar, the new actuator would not work with the original bracket.
...you put the pin in that hinge without the brass bushings.... that is why it appeared loose.. you did not need to remove the entire hinge...
@Jarako Jenkins There are two holes without bushings and two holes with bushings per hinge. I showed you the two holes that do not have bushings, they are meant to hold the pin stationary.