Hi guys hope the baby prep is going as well as you're van prep, I've a quick question... do you think the springy 9mm ply would work with a 1200mm laminate floor on top?
@@SingleTracker yes it made perfect tempting panels for my kitchen units. So where I am using light weight ply laminate I templated in ply first so I didn’t waste the laminate.
@@cardboardlambo5411the challenge I have is I used 25mm PIR and 25mm batons but the ribs in the floor have created some minor levels differences and hence the bounce in some areas. Once the laminate is on top I hope that bounce will diminish.
We just went on advice of some professional van builders that recommended bolting it metal to metal. My thought was wood and insulation could compress in an accident and compromise the bolts.
Insulation, completely agree. Wood, I’m not sure that would compress in an accident if it was build right round underneath the steel frame of the seat. If it did, I’d say the chance of surviving that would be slim.
@@westfieldmega the problem with van building is there are a million ways to go about it. With seat safety though we thought it best to go with the safest option.
It’s ok. I think on for me it will be a perfect fit no gap. But we were keen to have 25mm insulation on the floor as we intend on going to cold places. 👍 good luck. Everything is a compromise.
Just IMO, others are available ;-) You dont need sound deadening on the floor, the creases in the metal stop it vibrating, which is what its used for and why its very good for flat panels. Any difference is isnt worth the weight in these vans given they'll be plywood on top of it. Closed cell foam is great but kind of pointless on the floor because its sealed off and there are better materials.... Not a fan of PIR board and the resulted wood required as its not load rated. The guy who started this obsession should make a public apology ;-) .... XPS is load bearing so if you need that level of insulation in the floor it will take the compression without the need to clear out the roofing materials from the local wood merchant ;-) Good shout on replacing the floor, the 10mm OE floors are great quality but far too heavy to justify, MWB are 42kg so yours must have been around 50kg? But then you use 12mm birch? ~18k a sheet... Not sure how much you'll save. Above sounds negative, its not really converting a van is hard work and you got the job done, just for anyone planning their floor there are 15mm and 18mm XPS sandwich panels that because they are bonded create a study flooring for very little weight.
Yup, I was just going to comment that sound deadening not required and could have saved time and money.. But you're having fun and that's the main thing 😂
@@carlhescornish Its difficult because on every forum you have retailers or accounts belonging to retailer advising people to use closed cell foam and deadening all over the place; difficult for people to make informed decisions. On the TGE group one of the professional converters actually did some test in a heat chamber and loss through the floor is minimal. Plywood is a good insulator so long as its stuck/bolted down, noise block too, so its good enough, add 10-20mm XPS for cold environments and jobs a 🥕
I have to say I think Ginny was just adding jobs on for me but driving it now the floor is in compared to before the van is a lot quieter. This is still with no wall roof insulation. So it has defo worked. But I have to agree with you. These vans are a mine field there are so many ways to go about it.
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Now thats a proper floor!! Excited for the next one guys. Brilliant video
Thanks brother.
Great team work,you need a victory dance Mr Buck 🤣
😂😂 I can only dance after a few beers.
Good work, great video edit, I wish I had the time to make my videos as good as yours, must take you hours to edit. 👍
Thanks pal. That’s very kind of you. I’m getting quicker but it still takes a few hours. 🙏🙏
Hi guys hope the baby prep is going as well as you're van prep, I've a quick question... do you think the springy 9mm ply would work with a 1200mm laminate floor on top?
Thank you. I’m not sure. I think it would probably be ok. Can you test a section of it?
@@abucklife sounds like the smart play. If it doesn't work I could repurpose it for something else. Did you find a place for your 9 mm sheet?
@@SingleTracker yes it made perfect tempting panels for my kitchen units. So where I am using light weight ply laminate I templated in ply first so I didn’t waste the laminate.
Just installed 9mm ply so I can see what you are saying, going to add a laminate on top so hope some of the bounce goes.
We are using very thin vinyl flooring so didn’t want to risk it. 12mm did feel so much better.
If the 9mm was screwed down and the floor was level what difference whould it make?
@@cardboardlambo5411the challenge I have is I used 25mm PIR and 25mm batons but the ribs in the floor have created some minor levels differences and hence the bounce in some areas. Once the laminate is on top I hope that bounce will diminish.
I spent about an hour stood on it and was in two minds but ultimately it had a loot of movement in it.
Yes we had minor differences which the 12mm sorted out.
Do you remember by any chance the size of the tie down bolts? Thanks
I don’t but I will see if I can find a spare in the garage and measure it for you.
Ok excellent thank you
I haven’t got a spare but I think they are m8 bolts. Not sure on length.
Just out of curiosity, why did you not build a wooden base under the seat to allow you lay the floor and bolt through the wood and metal?
We just went on advice of some professional van builders that recommended bolting it metal to metal. My thought was wood and insulation could compress in an accident and compromise the bolts.
Insulation, completely agree. Wood, I’m not sure that would compress in an accident if it was build right round underneath the steel frame of the seat. If it did, I’d say the chance of surviving that would be slim.
@@westfieldmega the problem with van building is there are a million ways to go about it. With seat safety though we thought it best to go with the safest option.
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How's the headroom? I'm planning on 12mm birch battens with 12mm poplar floor and I was worried about head room
It’s ok. I think on for me it will be a perfect fit no gap. But we were keen to have 25mm insulation on the floor as we intend on going to cold places. 👍 good luck. Everything is a compromise.
@@abucklife How tall are you?
6ft. But we haven’t got a headliner in yet. I think I may have a little stoop.
Just IMO, others are available ;-)
You dont need sound deadening on the floor, the creases in the metal stop it vibrating, which is what its used for and why its very good for flat panels.
Any difference is isnt worth the weight in these vans given they'll be plywood on top of it.
Closed cell foam is great but kind of pointless on the floor because its sealed off and there are better materials....
Not a fan of PIR board and the resulted wood required as its not load rated. The guy who started this obsession should make a public apology ;-) .... XPS is load bearing so if you need that level of insulation in the floor it will take the compression without the need to clear out the roofing materials from the local wood merchant ;-)
Good shout on replacing the floor, the 10mm OE floors are great quality but far too heavy to justify, MWB are 42kg so yours must have been around 50kg? But then you use 12mm birch? ~18k a sheet... Not sure how much you'll save.
Above sounds negative, its not really converting a van is hard work and you got the job done, just for anyone planning their floor there are 15mm and 18mm XPS sandwich panels that because they are bonded create a study flooring for very little weight.
The original floor is so heavy so definitely needs swapping out. Yep learning lots through this build. Thanks for watching.
Yup, I was just going to comment that sound deadening not required and could have saved time and money.. But you're having fun and that's the main thing 😂
🙏
@@carlhescornish Its difficult because on every forum you have retailers or accounts belonging to retailer advising people to use closed cell foam and deadening all over the place; difficult for people to make informed decisions. On the TGE group one of the professional converters actually did some test in a heat chamber and loss through the floor is minimal. Plywood is a good insulator so long as its stuck/bolted down, noise block too, so its good enough, add 10-20mm XPS for cold environments and jobs a 🥕
I have to say I think Ginny was just adding jobs on for me but driving it now the floor is in compared to before the van is a lot quieter. This is still with no wall roof insulation. So it has defo worked. But I have to agree with you. These vans are a mine field there are so many ways to go about it.