Some 3D printing tips: print your plug with the flanges already in place, rather than trying to glue them on after. When you need to join two thin pieces like that, engineer the split line with multiple fingers that interleave such that they alternate (over, under, over, under) then you can assemble and glue and the seam will hold itself in place. Remember that the plug can be thicker than the real part, so the fingers on the back side can be thicker and more robust. The nice thing about that after gluing a joint like that, you can move directly to body filler (or joint compound) and primer. Just remember that the only surface that is really critical is the one that will ultimately create the part. All the other surfaces can be modified to meet the needs of strength, positioning, joinery etc. That's a super nice printer too!
Yeah, the non show side can be much ruffer in this case. I would even design it with remaining supports to make it easier to stage during painting and mold making. It would also be good to desig folds in the design a bit thicker, I would think, since that can be a weak point as was shown to be where it did break on one side. The other side did nreak on a more flat area so there should probably be more of a two sided print with infill though at this side that could prolong the print time too much 😞
Custom 3D printing Engineer here. For joining parts together we used MEK solvent as they chemically fuse the olastics together, just wear protection. In terms of the printer itself, on that first test print, the top and bottom layers looked very separated, fixing this will make the psrts stronger along these faces. Also you may need some more cooling along your overhangs as it looks like youve got some drooping layer strands. This can also be affected by the wall overlap percentage similar to what the top and bottom need adjusted, overall making the print nicer snd stronger. Feel free to reach out if you need any more advice. Other than that its so good to see you incorporating newer technology and techniques with this new build, been eatching since the first electric car was unboxed.
Have you thought about 3D printing the mold directly, by inverting the part in software that you want? That would probably save you one step in the process
If you're designing the parts yourself you could make the joints between the parts with mortices and tenons. The parts will align themselves and the join will be super strong!
Including your connecting points in the design will save you a lot of time and give you cleaner and stronger joints. Notice and tenon's are great as are tabs that screw together. Anyplace that isn't going to be visible in final product is a great place to have your connection structure.
OK, I had an idea while watching this, why not just 3d print the mold instead of the part? you'd save time and material by not having to make the mold and just drop a whole step. you might have to use more plastic to print a mold, but you could design it to be bolted together, which would make sanding and priming it much easier. I've seen @RTAFabrication from the UK do things like this on a smaller scale for carbon fibre parts.
You might want to consider tacking parts together with a soldering iron. After all, the plastic is a thermoplastic. When it has been tacked, you can then re-enforce with ribs as needed.
Loving your content! The addition of a 3D printer is going to take your work to the next level! And I really all the helpful comments offering advice and insights on how best to make your 3D printed components! Keep up the great work! Looking forward to more great videos! Cheers!
You have built up quite an impressive array of skills from these projects. The large format 3d printer is such a great way to take custom body panels to the next level.
Hey Jeremy! Was nice meeting you and discussing possibilities with my replica. I did get a preview of the printer, but hadn’t realized it wasn’t revealed yet! Such a cool addition to the shop! I’m loving your trailblazing fortitude!
To make it easier to glue the parts, in the design you can add features that lock the parts and also provide easy clamping for gluing. Later when you try to to stiff the whole part, maybe print a jig to help you there too, something that has the right height (like a post), and you can you screws on top of a piece of MDF.
I see you are using normal support structures for your prints. I believe you may be able to save a bunch of time if you switch to tree support structures.
Really cool! You should look into different types of support, a tree-support for instance would save you a bunch of time and hassle :D Keep it up, this project is super awesome!
To join large interlocking parts I like to use a lap joint and heat set inserts and bolts for allignment. Or through bolts. Heat sets let you place structural threads inside the plastic part and have them hidden on one side easily. When I did my full size cello design, 2 M5 bolts and an overlapping 50mm wide flange made for a very rigid glue up. I print structural parts in ABS usually, so I glue them with plastruct Bondine for ABS glue.
Cool tool! Just a thought for big panels over multiple jobs. Build a clamping caul into the backside with some dowels and holes for alignment and gluing. Then can cut them off when glue is set.
Very cool printer! Checkout if the slicer is compatible with tree supports. They save material and come off easier when compared to standard supports, at least in "normal" size 3D printers
Try modeling carbon tubes/spars into your parts if you can so you can use them to slot into each other and then glue to actually hold the pieces together. They're not too expensive and not too heavy. You can also use them to structurally reinforce the parts without adding too much infill
Pretty impressive process, I do have a few recommendations: You may want to slice the parts and include some dowels or joints to ensure the parts fit together easier and won't create as much of an exterior mess. The quickest way is using PrusaSlicer to cut the parts and add as many dowels as you like, you can change the placement and size of the dowels/holes as you see fit. You can export the parts as STL's to use in your machine's slicer. CA activator spray should help your CA gluing. If you plan on printing a lot of large parts to join together you may want to look at a plastic welding. As others have stated you may want to experiment with tree supports. Best of luck!
Fun surprise! I'm sure that you will get a lot of use from the large format 3D printer. It is great to watch the process, and I look forward to seeing the rest of the parts built, and the carbon fiber work afterwards.
just 3d print a shaped jig that sandwiches each side of the joint and then you can use regular clamps on that. you can put some kind of bond-breaker tape on the inside surface of the jig/clamp.
could you use some of the lattice supports from the print instead of the wooden sticks? This way you could at lease reuse some of the material instead of it going to waste.
Awesome progress dude! Congrats on the new toy. It's quite magical seeing something you've designed on a screen being printed. I would suggest for future mold parts you're going to print to add the flanges and stiffening ribs in the print. Yes, it will use more filament, but it will also make life easier. (And for ease of release you could add in openings for air quick connects to release the part with compressed air) There are lists on the internet for best glues with certain types of filament. And when all else fails, epoxy usually works. 😁
@@ElectricSuperCar now that I think about it, you probably could design those stiffening structures in a way that they'd also act as print supports during printing..
should adjust the z gap so the supports release a little better. increase by .1mm in your slicer till it holds but is still easy to remove. also should try a plastic welder tip for your soldering iron
Have you thought about orienting your parts so you can leave the supports attached, do your glue up, and then remove the supports? That way you wouldn't have to find things to prop the pieces up when doing your glue up. Also, you could look into designing the piece as one item, and then using the slicer program to cut the parts into printable sizes (and add pegs between the parts).
you would be one of the very few makers /youtubers I think I would entrust with what I wanna do one day .. converting my Grandpa's 67' El camino .. from not only Gas to Electric but left to right hand drive to make it easier for me to get in the car (disability took the joy of driving away from me) .. I am pretty sure the dash on my 67' is one of the best possible dashes to flip but 3d scanner would make all that simple to do / check.. What's a good handheld 3d scanner thats in hobbiest range .. I'm debating the Range 2 at the moment
Maybe next time design it to have a step where they 「」work like a snap on buttons where the mate together? Another idea is also the mating idea but the mating rod will have a pilot hole where you using a soldering iron to melt a threaded insert where you screw both parts together?
Very enjoyable video! Well edited and the dreaded background 'music' was barely audible, which was much appreciated. I'm still hoping for the day when, working at normal speed in your videos, you don't feel the need for noise in the background. The sounds made by the tools are all that are needed, in my opinion.
Why not design overlapping features on your print? I.e. print the popsicle features into the part then glue together. You could potentially find a feature that could snap or clip together with fine tuning 🤷♂️
Why wouldn't you print the mold directly? With indexing and supporting ribs it would be extremely reliable and dimentially accurate. You can do sanding and finishing on the epoxy of the carbon fiber part so layer lines or what ever shouldn't matter.
@@ElectricSuperCar I bet you even said that in the video...I guess I missed it. The Porsche is definitely my favorite project. Can't wait to see how it comes out!
Seems like a lot of work to get a final piece, especially to get the buck. I understand that if the final piece is carbon fiber this idea does not apply, but are there filaments or other printers that would give you either a buck or a final product? I believe that there are printers that produce robust, r&d items that have carbon fiber or even metal infused into the filament.
Once I heard that you were using Gorilla Clear Glue and not specifically a "super glue", I had a feeling you were going to run into problems. I'm definitely not an expert on this, but when I did a bit of research on gluing 3D printed parts, it seemed like you really needed cyanoacrylate (CA) glue, or as most know it, super glue. In my experience, most of the glues will state "cyanoacrylate" somewhere on the packaging if they contain it. The Gorilla Clear Glue states that it isn't for polyethylene or polypropylene materials, but unfortunately, Bigrep doesn't say much about their HI-TEMP filament other than it being a bio-polymer.
ApexCharger Purchase it today through
Amazon: amzn.to/4aV6mJ7 or visit the official website
apexcharger.com/product/mach-1/
Way cool!
start 3D printing wheelchairs
Need some large Not-a-wheelchair parts?
Absolutely
Hey, that's our printer! Thank you so much for sharing your super cool part and every step along the way 🔥
Thanks for the partnership!
You are going to need a commercial workshop soon.
That would be awesome!
Already the size of a small commercial workshop, like under a viaduct arch lol
Some 3D printing tips: print your plug with the flanges already in place, rather than trying to glue them on after. When you need to join two thin pieces like that, engineer the split line with multiple fingers that interleave such that they alternate (over, under, over, under) then you can assemble and glue and the seam will hold itself in place. Remember that the plug can be thicker than the real part, so the fingers on the back side can be thicker and more robust. The nice thing about that after gluing a joint like that, you can move directly to body filler (or joint compound) and primer. Just remember that the only surface that is really critical is the one that will ultimately create the part. All the other surfaces can be modified to meet the needs of strength, positioning, joinery etc. That's a super nice printer too!
Thanks for the tips!
Yeah, the non show side can be much ruffer in this case. I would even design it with remaining supports to make it easier to stage during painting and mold making. It would also be good to desig folds in the design a bit thicker, I would think, since that can be a weak point as was shown to be where it did break on one side. The other side did nreak on a more flat area so there should probably be more of a two sided print with infill though at this side that could prolong the print time too much 😞
Custom 3D printing Engineer here. For joining parts together we used MEK solvent as they chemically fuse the olastics together, just wear protection.
In terms of the printer itself, on that first test print, the top and bottom layers looked very separated, fixing this will make the psrts stronger along these faces.
Also you may need some more cooling along your overhangs as it looks like youve got some drooping layer strands. This can also be affected by the wall overlap percentage similar to what the top and bottom need adjusted, overall making the print nicer snd stronger.
Feel free to reach out if you need any more advice.
Other than that its so good to see you incorporating newer technology and techniques with this new build, been eatching since the first electric car was unboxed.
So much for me to learn! Thanks for the tips!
Could another type of support be used? The default one seems to be wasting a lot of material.
@@xavtek tree support are the way to go for most printers.
@filthmaster9936 Some slicers call it organic support. It's looks the same, just different names.
For the new viewers, you should also specify the “builds” are also full EV conversions!! That’s the most interesting part haha! Congrats on 140K subs!
@@mattperry4138 Thanks!
Have you thought about 3D printing the mold directly, by inverting the part in software that you want? That would probably save you one step in the process
Definitely would be better
If you're designing the parts yourself you could make the joints between the parts with mortices and tenons. The parts will align themselves and the join will be super strong!
Including your connecting points in the design will save you a lot of time and give you cleaner and stronger joints. Notice and tenon's are great as are tabs that screw together. Anyplace that isn't going to be visible in final product is a great place to have your connection structure.
OK, I had an idea while watching this, why not just 3d print the mold instead of the part? you'd save time and material by not having to make the mold and just drop a whole step. you might have to use more plastic to print a mold, but you could design it to be bolted together, which would make sanding and priming it much easier. I've seen @RTAFabrication from the UK do things like this on a smaller scale for carbon fibre parts.
I love it!
You might want to consider tacking parts together with a soldering iron. After all, the plastic is a thermoplastic. When it has been tacked, you can then re-enforce with ribs as needed.
Good call!
Loving your content! The addition of a 3D printer is going to take your work to the next level! And I really all the helpful comments offering advice and insights on how best to make your 3D printed components! Keep up the great work! Looking forward to more great videos! Cheers!
Awesome, thank you!
You have built up quite an impressive array of skills from these projects. The large format 3d printer is such a great way to take custom body panels to the next level.
Let's hope so!
wow, I wish I had that huge 3d printer. hopefully, that will be my next purchase. I would like to see more videos like this. thanks, Jeremy!
Will do!
Hey Jeremy! Was nice meeting you and discussing possibilities with my replica. I did get a preview of the printer, but hadn’t realized it wasn’t revealed yet! Such a cool addition to the shop! I’m loving your trailblazing fortitude!
Thanks!
To make it easier to glue the parts, in the design you can add features that lock the parts and also provide easy clamping for gluing. Later when you try to to stiff the whole part, maybe print a jig to help you there too, something that has the right height (like a post), and you can you screws on top of a piece of MDF.
Good call!
For PETG (High Temp) I use JB Weld Plastic Bond (2-Part Epoxy)...The Weld is good as well but it is a solvent based.
Got it!
Maybe have some permanent support pieces on the back side of parts so you can have them sit level when glueing/working on them.
Good call!
I see you are using normal support structures for your prints. I believe you may be able to save a bunch of time if you switch to tree support structures.
I'll have to try
I don’t know much about 3D printing but I thought “wow that’s a lot of material going to waste”
wow, you don't need to borrow your sons 3d printer anymore :D
LOL!
Really cool! You should look into different types of support, a tree-support for instance would save you a bunch of time and hassle :D
Keep it up, this project is super awesome!
That's a great idea!
Very excited about the new 3D printer. Even more excited that you’re using the 3D prints as molds for FG / CF! 👍🏻.
Yay!
Outstanding and awesome as always Thanks for sharing and taking us along
Thanks 👍
This is going to be really nice, that printer is huge! No, never saw it before and didn't notice it.
I am sneaky
@@ElectricSuperCar 😁
I don’t know what material you’re using precisely but 3-D gloop has always been a good adhesive for me with 3-D printing
I reached out to them. I will have to try their stuff
Glad to see that the project is not dead! Good job!
Thanks!
Very nice - you think plastic welding with hot staples would help?
Definitely going to try that moving forward
Yeah this is how @lasersterling does it on his Lamborghini
Plastic weld works well also
Good to know!
I saw the video right now. That was unbelievable! You did it super super excellent! Well done🎉
Thank you so much!
why is it necessary to create a plug then a mold? could you not do carbon layup on a prepped 3d printed part directly?
I can try that!
I bet your son is jealous of that printer!
LOL!
Man you deserved that 3d printer deal nice work 👍👏👏👏
To join large interlocking parts I like to use a lap joint and heat set inserts and bolts for allignment. Or through bolts. Heat sets let you place structural threads inside the plastic part and have them hidden on one side easily. When I did my full size cello design, 2 M5 bolts and an overlapping 50mm wide flange made for a very rigid glue up. I print structural parts in ABS usually, so I glue them with plastruct Bondine for ABS glue.
Thanks for the tips!
Cool tool! Just a thought for big panels over multiple jobs. Build a clamping caul into the backside with some dowels and holes for alignment and gluing. Then can cut them off when glue is set.
Great tip!
Welcome to the 3D car printing club! 🤣
I have so much to learn!
@@ElectricSuperCar What do you mean? your teaching me stuff brother! 😁
Have you considered when printing pieces with some type of press fit pins that help align and lock the printed parts together?
Nice!
Very cool printer! Checkout if the slicer is compatible with tree supports. They save material and come off easier when compared to standard supports, at least in "normal" size 3D printers
I will have to try it out!
Awesome work friend!
Thank you! Cheers!
Adding self aligning tabs or pins in your models could help, yeah?
Yes sir!
Maybe some snapping clips or interlocking lips (similar to flooring) to join the parts together.
Like the tape V trick on paint can! You can add small alignment holes and flanges to print then remove after joining.
Good call
Awesome! That's quite a big 3D printer. Printing all the mock-ups first and then doing carbon fiber is probably a good call.
I hope so!
What material did you use for the 3D parts? ABS?
Try modeling carbon tubes/spars into your parts if you can so you can use them to slot into each other and then glue to actually hold the pieces together. They're not too expensive and not too heavy. You can also use them to structurally reinforce the parts without adding too much infill
Very cool!
Pretty impressive process, I do have a few recommendations:
You may want to slice the parts and include some dowels or joints to ensure the parts fit together easier and won't create as much of an exterior mess. The quickest way is using PrusaSlicer to cut the parts and add as many dowels as you like, you can change the placement and size of the dowels/holes as you see fit. You can export the parts as STL's to use in your machine's slicer.
CA activator spray should help your CA gluing.
If you plan on printing a lot of large parts to join together you may want to look at a plastic welding.
As others have stated you may want to experiment with tree supports.
Best of luck!
Thanks for the suggestions!
Loving the update on the builds! How does weight change on the MGA? Also what would the next expected 0-60 be?
Also wanted to post FIRST but seem a bit childish 🤣
Fun surprise! I'm sure that you will get a lot of use from the large format 3D printer. It is great to watch the process, and I look forward to seeing the rest of the parts built, and the carbon fiber work afterwards.
That's the plan!
It's amazing to see the process, no matter what car you work on. I am happy I found this channel early, very nice work!
Thanks so much!
Learning so much watching your videos. Likely won't ever do a project like this but just enjoy learning new things. Great video.
Thanks for watching!
Congratulations on your success. So happy to see your progress 😎
Thank you so much!
great show, great info!
Much appreciated!
Wow! Love this! Looks so good! How rewarding making your own parts taking shape!
Nice the see the drywall compound idea living on!
Thanks for the comment!
I do a SS mesh melted into joint with a old school big soldering iron and then melt/float filament on top
Very nice!
Only hint of a 3D Printer I remember is that cover you printed; where I asked about the material used. 🤔
I have a 3d printer but that one is a monster!
So you first have to 3D print, then make the mold and from that you can make the actual part? Hmm interesting, thanks for sharing!
With a proper glue up this could be a very strong part. Specially if you use PLA+CF filament or even better ABS/ASA filament.
👍
just 3d print a shaped jig that sandwiches each side of the joint and then you can use regular clamps on that. you can put some kind of bond-breaker tape on the inside surface of the jig/clamp.
Thanks for the tips!
Man, you doing amazing things, counting that😊
I appreciate that!
Cool video as always. I 3d print own a k1max would love to make a body kit for my audi a6 but very hard to find files
That would be cool!
could you use some of the lattice supports from the print instead of the wooden sticks? This way you could at lease reuse some of the material instead of it going to waste.
Good call!
That is a huge 3D printer
Yes sir!
Awesome progress dude!
Congrats on the new toy. It's quite magical seeing something you've designed on a screen being printed. I would suggest for future mold parts you're going to print to add the flanges and stiffening ribs in the print.
Yes, it will use more filament, but it will also make life easier.
(And for ease of release you could add in openings for air quick connects to release the part with compressed air)
There are lists on the internet for best glues with certain types of filament.
And when all else fails, epoxy usually works. 😁
Thanks a ton!
@@ElectricSuperCar now that I think about it, you probably could design those stiffening structures in a way that they'd also act as print supports during printing..
You can make your parts with flanges to help assembly and glue or bolt together
Good call!
should adjust the z gap so the supports release a little better. increase by .1mm in your slicer till it holds but is still easy to remove. also should try a plastic welder tip for your soldering iron
Thanks for the tip!
Have you thought about orienting your parts so you can leave the supports attached, do your glue up, and then remove the supports? That way you wouldn't have to find things to prop the pieces up when doing your glue up. Also, you could look into designing the piece as one item, and then using the slicer program to cut the parts into printable sizes (and add pegs between the parts).
Good call!
04:09 he is like what is this place
That looks amazing. I wonder if Tree supports would be better - using so much support material that is wasted
I'll have to try
Wow, crazy how fast you are developing 👍
I try
awesome🔥🔥🔥
Thanks 🔥
Great job!
Thanks!
What material are you using? Hopefully a PETG over PLA for UV and heat resistance?
Awesome ✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻
Best wishes 🎉🎉🎉
Keep it up 💪🏻💪🏻👍🏻
Thanks Friend!
I'm also using 3D scanning to create some small car parts. Could you share which software you use for car body design?
Awesome Video as always! This is such a dream project.
Thanks a bunch!
That is sick!
Curious why you didn’t add a more rigid structure in cad, also some extended edges, could have saved a lot of time setting it up
So true!
It's just cool.
Thanks!
There's a good feedback about 3D Gloop as a strong glue for 3d printed parts. You might give it a try.
Will do!
My foam buck has taken me nearly 2 years at this point, but compared to 20000 for a 3d printer I think it’s going great.
👍
you would be one of the very few makers /youtubers I think I would entrust with what I wanna do one day .. converting my Grandpa's 67' El camino .. from not only Gas to Electric but left to right hand drive to make it easier for me to get in the car (disability took the joy of driving away from me) .. I am pretty sure the dash on my 67' is one of the best possible dashes to flip but 3d scanner would make all that simple to do / check.. What's a good handheld 3d scanner thats in hobbiest range .. I'm debating the Range 2 at the moment
Very nice!
B is for Build had done the same thing in his Mustang GT500 project for making custom bumpers ...
Very nice!
@IvanMiranda once made a 1m cubed prnt volume one
Maybe next time design it to have a step where they 「」work like a snap on buttons where the mate together? Another idea is also the mating idea but the mating rod will have a pilot hole where you using a soldering iron to melt a threaded insert where you screw both parts together?
Hey bro
Use nylon hard thread to remove
Thanks for the tip
mate, why don't you print some frame (holder or something) on each side to then glue it easier and don't use this ice cream things? )
That would be better
@@ElectricSuperCar what about 3d printing some swag for you to sell on the channel man?
@@ElectricSuperCar or lock, to avoid using glue if you interested in:)
You sure you calibrated correctly? It looked like it was under extruding on your test print
Very enjoyable video! Well edited and the dreaded background 'music' was barely audible, which was much appreciated. I'm still hoping for the day when, working at normal speed in your videos, you don't feel the need for noise in the background. The sounds made by the tools are all that are needed, in my opinion.
Noted
I don´t know If you know this trick but hot glue is super easy to remove spraying with isopropyl alcohol. Give it a try and tell me!
Nice! Will do
Why not design overlapping features on your print? I.e. print the popsicle features into the part then glue together.
You could potentially find a feature that could snap or clip together with fine tuning 🤷♂️
Good call!
You need an ultrasonic cutter to cut 3d printed legs without sweating.
Thanks for the suggestion!
very cool stuff! Would be interesting to hear how many hours each part takes to print, and approx how much filament. Keep up the good work!
Noted!
Nice prints. Do they have one with a tool changer?
It has a dual extrusion head. Is that what you mean?
Why wouldn't you print the mold directly? With indexing and supporting ribs it would be extremely reliable and dimentially accurate.
You can do sanding and finishing on the epoxy of the carbon fiber part so layer lines or what ever shouldn't matter.
You're right!
Nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
You don't even have a decent work bench but you bought a giant 3D printer?? OK, cool. :)
Definitely did not buy. It is on loan to me for a few months as part of a partnership
@@ElectricSuperCar I bet you even said that in the video...I guess I missed it. The Porsche is definitely my favorite project. Can't wait to see how it comes out!
They all say that the PLA Gloop stuff should be best for gluing PLA, but never tried it...
I will have to try!
Seems like a lot of work to get a final piece, especially to get the buck. I understand that if the final piece is carbon fiber this idea does not apply, but are there filaments or other printers that would give you either a buck or a final product? I believe that there are printers that produce robust, r&d items that have carbon fiber or even metal infused into the filament.
Interesting
Once I heard that you were using Gorilla Clear Glue and not specifically a "super glue", I had a feeling you were going to run into problems. I'm definitely not an expert on this, but when I did a bit of research on gluing 3D printed parts, it seemed like you really needed cyanoacrylate (CA) glue, or as most know it, super glue. In my experience, most of the glues will state "cyanoacrylate" somewhere on the packaging if they contain it.
The Gorilla Clear Glue states that it isn't for polyethylene or polypropylene materials, but unfortunately, Bigrep doesn't say much about their HI-TEMP filament other than it being a bio-polymer.
Understood
Just curious, could you put WD40 or some other lubricant on the tray so the removal is simpler?
I'll have to try it
check with printer maker, you want the print to stick to bed if it comes off too easy the print might fail.