The Design Studio collaborating with Jeremy here on the project👋🏻 First and foremost, the entire team at IJ Design Studio is thrilled and honored to be a part of this incredible journey with the Electric Supercar channel. Jeremy has made significant contributions to the community, inspiring many to embark on their own automotive projects. We've noticed several recurring questions in the comments section, so we thought it would be best to address them all here. Q1: Why 3D print the part itself instead of the mold? A: 3D printing molds for composite fabrication, such as carbon fiber and fiberglass, is indeed an innovative and widely-used approach in the automotive industry. However, we chose to 3D print the panels themselves for two key reasons. First, the complexity of the design: even with the most skilled and advanced composite fabricators, some designs are simply too intricate to be created using traditional molding methods. Given the thorough nature of this project, we aimed to create the best-performing part that seamlessly retrofits the existing chassis without compromising design, integrity, or functionality. At our studio, function is as crucial as form. For example, the lighting elements in this car are integrated within the rear bumper, avoiding unsightly cables. Even though this detail is rarely seen, it exemplifies our commitment to meticulous design and creative problem-solving. Q2: Why 3D print the parts instead of CNC machining a plug for molding? A: While 3D printing is relatively new compared to traditional reductive manufacturing techniques, it offers significant advantages, allowing us to create complex shapes and details that are nearly impossible to achieve with other methods. By leveraging this technology, we were able to realize the perfect design for this project. Q3: Why didn't you design locking mechanisms such as dovetails or keyways between the parts or flanges? A: We certainly could have incorporated locking mechanisms. However, since we are not printing the parts in-house (where we can control tolerances to avoid issues like shrinkage or oversizing), we opted to keep the parts simple. This decision also ensures better adherence to the printing bed, reducing the risk of errors. Q4: Wouldn’t printing it in multiple pieces reduce the part's structural integrity and make it more prone to breaking? A: It's true that using FDM technology to print parts that will be subjected to mechanical stress isn’t ideal. The layer-by-layer printing process can create weak points that are prone to delamination and UV degradation over time. However, by reinforcing the parts with composite materials, we can significantly increase their stiffness and strength, often surpassing that of traditionally molded parts. Q5: Isn’t this design too heavy for a rear bumper? Rear bumpers typically weigh much less. A: While the weight of the bumper is higher than anticipated, this is partly due to unavoidable changes in the printer settings. However, even with ideal settings, this bumper would still be heavier than a standard injection-molded or composite bumper. Why? Because this isn’t just a rear bumper. Typically, rear bumpers are cosmetic pieces designed to conceal safety structures. In this project, we’ve made the bumper an integral part of the car’s performance and safety features. For instance, the car’s overall length has been increased to accommodate the battery pack, which needs to be protected in the event of an impact. We’ve added an additional impact structure to create a safety cage around the battery pack, enhancing its protection. Moreover, the bumper supports the rear wing (which generates considerable downforce) and houses the taillight electronics, making it a multi-functional component rather than just a "regular bumper." Q6: Wouldn’t it be better to stick to the original Porsche design and parts instead of redesigning them? A: While using existing parts would have been easier and faster, it would undermine the ambition of this project. Despite Jeremy’s humility, this build is on a completely different level compared to others. Although it’s based on the Porsche Cayman’s highly capable chassis, this car will be transformed into something entirely new, aiming for hypercar levels of performance. We respect the spirit of Porsche and have incorporated elements of their latest design language as a nod to the brand, such as the rear light bar. However, this car is not trying to be a Porsche; it is its own unique entity, and the design reflects that identity. Feel free to ask any further questions. We’ll do our best to answer them. Cheers ❤
One small advice here! might wanna put a tag such as " Electric Porsche build Ep. XXX" in the title, with a divider | between the title and the tag. This would help viewers find the videos easier and catch up if they missed a video!
I second this. It's the best compromise in my opinion because unfortunately, you still have to title your videos for SEO, if you don't want your videos to get buried by the algorithm. Make the first part of the title as clickbaity as you want, but include the episode number at least so people know what they're clicking on. for example: "This took WAY too long! | Electric Porsche Build Ep X"
@ribtips305 I know this, but a new viewer might want to know some more details at first glance, how deep is the build into etc. providing a little detail wouldn’t harm, also it would make searching for the videos easier
Next time, 3D print some keyways between the parts (kind of like 3D puzzle pieces) so they are self-aligning and you don't need to worry about the popsicle stick method (plus, the keyways add extra surface area and support in different directions, so you aren't relying only on the glue to prevent shear along that plane). You can even design the keyways to accept some 1/2" bar stock for extra rigidity if needed.
@rthomp03 Yes, I was wondering why the 3D printing guys working with him didn't offer this solution to him, that would totally eliminate his need for cross sectional struts like he talked about too
The designer gave this reason: "Q3: Why didn't you design locking mechanisms such as dovetails or keyways between the parts or flanges? A: We certainly could have incorporated locking mechanisms. However, since we are not printing the parts in-house (where we can control tolerances to avoid issues like shrinkage or oversizing), we opted to keep the parts simple. This decision also ensures better adherence to the printing bed, reducing the risk of errors."
For the next large 3d print you need to bond pieces together I’d recommend doing flanges (either perpendicular or overlapping) gives a lot more surface area and you can get a bond nearly as strong as the layer lines or stronger depending on the print material. I personally like 1/2-1” overlapping flanges and I’ll usually use solvent bonding solution in addition to plastic welding the back side with reinforcement mesh. Ends up being very strong and much easier to ensure the visible surfaces line up properly and make a mold as the plug ends up far more rigid
Wow, just wow. I do think printing a mold would be better, but this way you get to see final product and plan the molds better. Diffusers are normally attached separately, so that would be a good place to start. The front will be sick as it matches this end!
Street Bandito integrated some flanges into the bits for the electric Z. He was then able to use small clamps to keep them together while the glue cured
that looks so awesome! one suggestion: use angled wirecutters to cut those staple pins. because when you wiggle those pins out, you might weaken those staple joints a little. love your work, been following you since the K1 Attack build. Wish I could work with you.
Might be a good idea to add locating features to the join planes (such as holes and pins) to reduce alignment errors especially on such large pieces. Loving your efforts and enthusiasm to rebuild yourself and expand your repertoire
JB Weld has two products specfically meant for plastics. Plastic Bond, and Plastic Weld. The Weld like the Goop has a solvent that "melts" the surface. I use the bond on PETG prints all the time. I have had layers fail before the bond. I saw you used regular JB Weld
Nice! Two remarks though; 1. I hope you have a place to send all that 3D printed material to for recycling once you're done (though you'd probably need to clean it up a bit as it would have to be pure. 2. Those 'moving' indicator lights look nice. It's my pet peeve that they always work like that. Where it only makes sense to animate it when used as indicator light. But blink steady when used as warning lights. Pretty please, try to implement that!
I have done a bunch of big prints not quite that scale. Simplest method to make alignment easy and strengthen joints is to use metal rods or bars. It is easy to print holes in precise locations in model. Can always drill out if too tight, though I usually print some tests to get right hole size for snug fit. Have used 1/8th steel rod for small joints up to 1/2 electrical conduit from Home Depot for large joints. Feel it would make it much easier for you. Can also recommend heat set threaded inserts and machine screws for joining parts. You can tap printed holes but have to have the whole the right size(printed or drilled) to not break the part due to expansion when tapping. Mechanical fixings are usually way easier and more reliable than glue on 3D printed parts in my experience.
Next time if you have interior surfaces that you don't care about, you can create flats that allow you to clamp pieces together. In addition, you can instead of creating flat slice planes make interlocking puzzle piece splits OR "staples" you can insert / press in.
Since you're using LEDs for taillights you reminded me of something I saw decades ago in I think it was in Mechanix Illustrated. And LEDs would make it easier to do. They showed a car and the taillights were designed to turn red when you were braking. Green lights for when you were accelerating. And when you were coasting they were amber. You can tell exactly what the car in front of you is doing. Accelerating, Coasting or Braking.
With the plastic welder staples, I'd recommend turning the staples so that they're parallel to the seam as you'll get more coverage with each staple since it has more intersections with each zigzag. Applying them perpendicularly only gives the staple the one intersection at the seam. Since it only crosses at the one point.
Nice work integrating the hot staples. We use them in the Collision Repair world quite a bit. They work great! 👍 Edit: HEAT SET threaded inserts work GREAT on 3d printed parts for screwing pieces together.
This looks great! Two items though. First, I really hope you're looking at building more modularity into the whole unit somehow. Just imagine the smallest little piece breaks on the finished bumper on the road, you'd have to replace the entire thing unless you make it more modular! Second, are the tail lights large enough to be legal? They seem super thin. Other than that though, really looking forward to seeing how it all comes together!
Try some 2-Part plastic epoxy. Similar to products like Gloop, 2-part plastic epoxy has a solvent that causes the plastic to become pliable, but some have an extended cure time to allow more working time. When cured, it offers 3000+PSI strength... the surrounding plastic material will break before the joint does. Loctite, Gorilla, and JB Weld have some of these. (must be used in well-ventilated area)
Love the bumper you guys made it is so sharp! If you have rigidity problems maybe look at using another 3D print to make a buck that you can use to make some carbon fiber skins and glue them on the inside. Not thick heavy carbon.
For such a big project I think it would have been best to use dowel-pins (instead of those sticks) Also 2 component glue would IMO been the better choice. It comes with self-mixing tubes which make applying much easier. They also sell them with different curing times which would have given more time to adjust those parts and assembly
Really great design! I think the Acrylic light bar is too recessed inside the bumper, though. I think it should stick out more. Also, I think it is a good idea to think about maintainability and access before the design gets too complicated. Don't make things difficult for yourself.
Great project! When I work on car parts, I use NOVOL CARBON 300 - carbon fiber putty. You’ll be amazed at how well it bonds with 3D printed parts and decorations, creating a super strong and lightweight finish
I feel like 3d printing for parts is great for something small like an instrument cluster or other things on the interior but probably not so much for an entire body panel. I was thinking you could have just used the 3d print you used to make the mold for the replacement transmission tunnel for the MG.
Looks awesome! Any thoughts about splitting it into multiple pieces? I worry what happens when someone hits a shopping cart into it, replacing the whole thing if it gets damaged seems nuts.
Hey, I love what you are do here. It's been awhile since I've done any CAD work but, here's my idea anyways... 😀 Have you thought about putting holes in the mating surfaces for alignment pins? Using a chamfer at the bottom and top of the holes would eliminate need for extra 3d printed supports for the holes and give somewhere for the glue to ooze out of the hole without getting onto the flat matching surfaces. The way I'm picturing this is creating a subtraction part shaped like the holes you want in the main part. Then cut and pasting them wherever you want an alignment pin. The planes in the main part used from separating the big part into smaller parts could be used a guide for where the place this subtraction part. Idk if I make any sense but it seems like this would be easy to do in CAD and make putting the parts together easier?
Pretty crafty to first print a scale model and use clay over that before bringing it into CAD. How do you check for accuracy between the CAD model and final 3D print? Was there some sort of prototype you printed before to use a mockup?
Surprised to see Stirlingkit sponsor this video. Being a common user of their store. In the process of building a skyline RC by using a engine i bought from their store some time back. With them being like a wholesaler of scale and model engines. A lot of companies they work with can give them bad rep. But their customer service is amazing.
Not sure if someone has already mentioned this but sounds like Gloop works the same way PVC pipe cement works, though possibly less agressive with a shorter activation time. I do wonder if the rear spoiler is about 20% too long. Angle is probably ok, but seems too long and may produce some unnecessary drag. Have you tested it to determine the result drag coefficient?
It may be too late at this point, but I'd consider making the entire thing out of multiple pieces such as the diffuser being one large piece, the side vertical aero pieces being separate, and then the rest of the bumper being one piece. I might even suggest the upper spoiler section being it's own separate piece. This would help making the mold for the composite material way less complicated. If you damaged the diffuser portion, you would just need to replace that portion versus the ENTIRE rear bumper.
Looks cool, but I personally would have gone with carbon fiber. It would have taken a bit more time depending on how it was done but would have probably been stronger and 1/2 the weight.
I hope you are planning to break apart the sections into individual components, such as the bumper cover, the diffuser and the side winglet plates. Would be best to be able to assemble them as components, rather than one large unit, not to mention future serviceability.
You should have collaborated with an experienced woodworker, those guys can figure ways to clamp pretty much anything. Nice work tho, bumper looks cool!
I think for composit manufacture you "just" have to identify the isolated surfaces. Like lower bumper, upper bumper, diffusor, top of wing and then make molds for them. You already have the positive.. after laying up these you bond them back together and tadaaa.. (I hope I could convey the basic idea, not the naive view)
I love this project and everything you do, thank you for sharing all of this with us! The plastic welder is amazing, those little staple things are cool. Now, I know nothing about 3d printing, but for a big piece like this, wouldn't adding some male/female joints save a lot of the work you had to do in this video for creating stable unions? **EDIT** I continued watching the video, and I see that this bumper is just a placeholder. So maybe the extra modeling work wouldn't be worth it, especially if you're just going to be using it as a structure for shaping the finished product.
Extra 17% off code:ESC17
Semto engine: bit.ly/3XxXw0n
Stirlingkit Must Have engine：bit.ly/3RxzlLp
The Design Studio collaborating with Jeremy here on the project👋🏻
First and foremost, the entire team at IJ Design Studio is thrilled and honored to be a part of this incredible journey with the Electric Supercar channel. Jeremy has made significant contributions to the community, inspiring many to embark on their own automotive projects.
We've noticed several recurring questions in the comments section, so we thought it would be best to address them all here.
Q1: Why 3D print the part itself instead of the mold?
A: 3D printing molds for composite fabrication, such as carbon fiber and fiberglass, is indeed an innovative and widely-used approach in the automotive industry. However, we chose to 3D print the panels themselves for two key reasons. First, the complexity of the design: even with the most skilled and advanced composite fabricators, some designs are simply too intricate to be created using traditional molding methods. Given the thorough nature of this project, we aimed to create the best-performing part that seamlessly retrofits the existing chassis without compromising design, integrity, or functionality. At our studio, function is as crucial as form. For example, the lighting elements in this car are integrated within the rear bumper, avoiding unsightly cables. Even though this detail is rarely seen, it exemplifies our commitment to meticulous design and creative problem-solving.
Q2: Why 3D print the parts instead of CNC machining a plug for molding?
A: While 3D printing is relatively new compared to traditional reductive manufacturing techniques, it offers significant advantages, allowing us to create complex shapes and details that are nearly impossible to achieve with other methods. By leveraging this technology, we were able to realize the perfect design for this project.
Q3: Why didn't you design locking mechanisms such as dovetails or keyways between the parts or flanges?
A: We certainly could have incorporated locking mechanisms. However, since we are not printing the parts in-house (where we can control tolerances to avoid issues like shrinkage or oversizing), we opted to keep the parts simple. This decision also ensures better adherence to the printing bed, reducing the risk of errors.
Q4: Wouldn’t printing it in multiple pieces reduce the part's structural integrity and make it more prone to breaking?
A: It's true that using FDM technology to print parts that will be subjected to mechanical stress isn’t ideal. The layer-by-layer printing process can create weak points that are prone to delamination and UV degradation over time. However, by reinforcing the parts with composite materials, we can significantly increase their stiffness and strength, often surpassing that of traditionally molded parts.
Q5: Isn’t this design too heavy for a rear bumper? Rear bumpers typically weigh much less.
A: While the weight of the bumper is higher than anticipated, this is partly due to unavoidable changes in the printer settings. However, even with ideal settings, this bumper would still be heavier than a standard injection-molded or composite bumper. Why? Because this isn’t just a rear bumper. Typically, rear bumpers are cosmetic pieces designed to conceal safety structures. In this project, we’ve made the bumper an integral part of the car’s performance and safety features. For instance, the car’s overall length has been increased to accommodate the battery pack, which needs to be protected in the event of an impact. We’ve added an additional impact structure to create a safety cage around the battery pack, enhancing its protection. Moreover, the bumper supports the rear wing (which generates considerable downforce) and houses the taillight electronics, making it a multi-functional component rather than just a "regular bumper."
Q6: Wouldn’t it be better to stick to the original Porsche design and parts instead of redesigning them?
A: While using existing parts would have been easier and faster, it would undermine the ambition of this project. Despite Jeremy’s humility, this build is on a completely different level compared to others. Although it’s based on the Porsche Cayman’s highly capable chassis, this car will be transformed into something entirely new, aiming for hypercar levels of performance. We respect the spirit of Porsche and have incorporated elements of their latest design language as a nod to the brand, such as the rear light bar. However, this car is not trying to be a Porsche; it is its own unique entity, and the design reflects that identity.
Feel free to ask any further questions. We’ll do our best to answer them.
Cheers ❤
One small advice here! might wanna put a tag such as " Electric Porsche build Ep. XXX" in the title, with a divider | between the title and the tag. This would help viewers find the videos easier and catch up if they missed a video!
I second this. It's the best compromise in my opinion because unfortunately, you still have to title your videos for SEO, if you don't want your videos to get buried by the algorithm. Make the first part of the title as clickbaity as you want, but include the episode number at least so people know what they're clicking on. for example:
"This took WAY too long! | Electric Porsche Build Ep X"
@ribtips305 I know this, but a new viewer might want to know some more details at first glance, how deep is the build into etc. providing a little detail wouldn’t harm, also it would make searching for the videos easier
I also agree change the title to XXX. More clickbait and then itll be good clickbait to land on this page
Omg that’s so true, am lost
Next time, 3D print some keyways between the parts (kind of like 3D puzzle pieces) so they are self-aligning and you don't need to worry about the popsicle stick method (plus, the keyways add extra surface area and support in different directions, so you aren't relying only on the glue to prevent shear along that plane). You can even design the keyways to accept some 1/2" bar stock for extra rigidity if needed.
@rthomp03 Yes, I was wondering why the 3D printing guys working with him didn't offer this solution to him, that would totally eliminate his need for cross sectional struts like he talked about too
he definitely needs to key the prints
they could also add holes for wooden dowels. i think this is how the guy from tofu auto works did it
The designer gave this reason:
"Q3: Why didn't you design locking mechanisms such as dovetails or keyways between the parts or flanges?
A: We certainly could have incorporated locking mechanisms. However, since we are not printing the parts in-house (where we can control tolerances to avoid issues like shrinkage or oversizing), we opted to keep the parts simple. This decision also ensures better adherence to the printing bed, reducing the risk of errors."
Cmon leave him alone, much more thought went into for views/show than actually doing the stuff.
For the next large 3d print you need to bond pieces together I’d recommend doing flanges (either perpendicular or overlapping) gives a lot more surface area and you can get a bond nearly as strong as the layer lines or stronger depending on the print material. I personally like 1/2-1” overlapping flanges and I’ll usually use solvent bonding solution in addition to plastic welding the back side with reinforcement mesh. Ends up being very strong and much easier to ensure the visible surfaces line up properly and make a mold as the plug ends up far more rigid
Good call
I cant stop looking at this bumper w/o being reminded of a 959 rear end. What a cool project. Thanks for sharing
Glad you liked it!
The bumper looks awesome. Go with thin panels (5mm), and use 0.5" steel rectangular tubing for support. Then you can just fiber glass over it.
Nice!
This was very fun to see the first 3D printed body part come together! It really looks like a wild, exotic design. Congratulations!
Thanks Dean!
WOW! That's the most beautiful Porsche bumper l have ever seen.
@richardike2342 thanks Friend!
Looking at the first parts being glued… you could have printed some features that interlock, instead of just a flat surface to glue
This looks so cool!! can't wait to see it completed
Me too!
👍
Bumper looks great! Would love to do something like this for my turbo MR2 project.
That looks seriously amazing!! Great work!!!
Thanks so much for the support!
You have an AMAZING SET OF SKILLS.
Thanks Friend!
I use aluminum screening strips for melting into seams instead of the staples and then cover with a layer of melted plastic
I'll have to try it
If you use the screen on front and back it is stronger the base plastic. @@ElectricSuperCar
bro you really know what you're doing
For the small parts you can maximise glued surfaces with some easy locking as well
Wow, just wow. I do think printing a mold would be better, but this way you get to see final product and plan the molds better. Diffusers are normally attached separately, so that would be a good place to start. The front will be sick as it matches this end!
This channel is one heck of a resume which might be useful one day.
Bumper as it self - really great. But I would leave oem lights because that’s icon Porsche design
Kick ass skills, a true renaissance man !
Thanks Friend!
Totally impressed by the design and fabrication skills. Amazing work. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much!
I would love a custom 911 997.2 rear bumper with the 992 style LED rear light bar!
This is probably the coolest thing I'll see today. Nice work!
Thanks Friend!
Street Bandito integrated some flanges into the bits for the electric Z. He was then able to use small clamps to keep them together while the glue cured
Also, I've used a 3d pen to join two printed pieces - first I would melt the edges to create a "valley", then lay a bead of the same material
Innsane! Sick build man!
Thanks Friend!
That looks MEAN!! It will be very wild to materialize this beast, but I'm sure you can do it.
Thanks!
That indeed looks sinister in the best way!!! The mold making is gonna interesting.
I think so too!
You're really starting to impress me, Sir! Great job so far and I look forward to your next challenges on this rear bumper assembly.
Thanks! 👍
@ElectricSuperCar You're welcome and keep up your good works!
that looks so awesome!
one suggestion: use angled wirecutters to cut those staple pins. because when you wiggle those pins out, you might weaken those staple joints a little.
love your work, been following you since the K1 Attack build. Wish I could work with you.
you can have the joints overlap to aid the structure and also have enough area for the bonding agent to bind
Wow that's amazing 👏
Thank you! Cheers!
Cool video your creativity and skills are through the roof ❤
Thanks Friend!
@@ElectricSuperCar your are welcome my friend
Keep going! Can’t wait to see the full body on the car!
That's the plan!
Might be a good idea to add locating features to the join planes (such as holes and pins) to reduce alignment errors especially on such large pieces. Loving your efforts and enthusiasm to rebuild yourself and expand your repertoire
👍
JB Weld has two products specfically meant for plastics. Plastic Bond, and Plastic Weld. The Weld like the Goop has a solvent that "melts" the surface. I use the bond on PETG prints all the time. I have had layers fail before the bond. I saw you used regular JB Weld
you can print some jigs to hold the pieces in place while you glue/clamp.
Good call
That is a complex piece. Wow. Can wait to see how you fiberglass that into a solid bumper! Looks daunting.
You and me both!
I find when I make larger 3D printed parts I make tabs or guide pins/holes for the parts to fit together. Then it can lock together.
Great job!
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice!
Two remarks though;
1. I hope you have a place to send all that 3D printed material to for recycling once you're done (though you'd probably need to clean it up a bit as it would have to be pure.
2. Those 'moving' indicator lights look nice. It's my pet peeve that they always work like that. Where it only makes sense to animate it when used as indicator light. But blink steady when used as warning lights. Pretty please, try to implement that!
That’s a crazy design
✌️
Wow this is going to look amazing when done😮
Thanks for the comment!
I have done a bunch of big prints not quite that scale. Simplest method to make alignment easy and strengthen joints is to use metal rods or bars. It is easy to print holes in precise locations in model. Can always drill out if too tight, though I usually print some tests to get right hole size for snug fit. Have used 1/8th steel rod for small joints up to 1/2 electrical conduit from
Home Depot for large joints. Feel it would make it much easier for you. Can also recommend heat set threaded inserts and machine screws for joining parts. You can tap printed holes but have to have the whole the right size(printed or drilled) to not break the part due to expansion when tapping. Mechanical fixings are usually way easier and more reliable than glue on 3D printed parts in my experience.
Good call!
This is the kind of printer that @lasersterling needs instead of those tiny Creality printers!
Thats going to look awesome once its painted. Rear lights look good 👍
That's definetly going to look very mean, I love the design. It fits today's design trends and it also looks functional, which is something I love
Thanks for the comment!
Loving it!!!
Thanks!
Mate, work of art looks fantastic
Thank you kindly
It looks awesome!
Awesome 😎
Thanks 🤗
Next time if you have interior surfaces that you don't care about, you can create flats that allow you to clamp pieces together. In addition, you can instead of creating flat slice planes make interlocking puzzle piece splits OR "staples" you can insert / press in.
That is really impressive work. Can you maybe do a video on how you sliced everything?
Since you're using LEDs for taillights you reminded me of something I saw decades ago in I think it was in Mechanix Illustrated. And LEDs would make it easier to do. They showed a car and the taillights were designed to turn red when you were braking. Green lights for when you were accelerating. And when you were coasting they were amber. You can tell exactly what the car in front of you is doing. Accelerating, Coasting or Braking.
Impressive.. Most impressive! Looks like the perfect rear end for Darth Vaders car ;)
Can't wait to see this in carbon fiber. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Friend!
Awesome ✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻
Great work and dedication 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Keep it up 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Thank you so much 😀
With the plastic welder staples, I'd recommend turning the staples so that they're parallel to the seam as you'll get more coverage with each staple since it has more intersections with each zigzag. Applying them perpendicularly only gives the staple the one intersection at the seam. Since it only crosses at the one point.
Good call
Nice work integrating the hot staples. We use them in the Collision Repair world quite a bit. They work great! 👍
Edit: HEAT SET threaded inserts work GREAT on 3d printed parts for screwing pieces together.
Thanks for the comment!
This looks great! Two items though. First, I really hope you're looking at building more modularity into the whole unit somehow. Just imagine the smallest little piece breaks on the finished bumper on the road, you'd have to replace the entire thing unless you make it more modular! Second, are the tail lights large enough to be legal? They seem super thin. Other than that though, really looking forward to seeing how it all comes together!
Try some 2-Part plastic epoxy. Similar to products like Gloop, 2-part plastic epoxy has a solvent that causes the plastic to become pliable, but some have an extended cure time to allow more working time. When cured, it offers 3000+PSI strength... the surrounding plastic material will break before the joint does.
Loctite, Gorilla, and JB Weld have some of these. (must be used in well-ventilated area)
Good call
It's huge, wide and showing it's intentions 🙂 Will you paint it once done or wrap it?
Cheers 👍💪✌
Planning on carbon fiber
Love the bumper you guys made it is so sharp! If you have rigidity problems maybe look at using another 3D print to make a buck that you can use to make some carbon fiber skins and glue them on the inside. Not thick heavy carbon.
That's a great idea!
For such a big project I think it would have been best to use dowel-pins (instead of those sticks)
Also 2 component glue would IMO been the better choice. It comes with self-mixing tubes which make applying much easier.
They also sell them with different curing times which would have given more time to adjust those parts and assembly
Really great design!
I think the Acrylic light bar is too recessed inside the bumper, though. I think it should stick out more.
Also, I think it is a good idea to think about maintainability and access before the design gets too complicated.
Don't make things difficult for yourself.
Great project! When I work on car parts, I use NOVOL CARBON 300 - carbon fiber putty. You’ll be amazed at how well it bonds with 3D printed parts and decorations, creating a super strong and lightweight finish
Thanks for the tip!
Best way to join large plastic is the welder :)
And adding some pins or other features to help with aligning them.
Street banditos channel can show you how to use what you made as a mold for carbon fiber. He made a 240z that way.
👍
Wow that's awesome!
Thanks!
Really nice video
Thanks a lot
The bumper looks amazing. But from engineering and assembling perspective I would probably separate it in couple pieces. But good job
Hi, what kind of filament have you used? I guess, a mix of carbon fiber and something else (PETG, PLA or ABS)?
Badass 3D printing job! Do you have the info anywhere for that Tetris song? Really liked it but can't seem to find it.
I feel like 3d printing for parts is great for something small like an instrument cluster or other things on the interior but probably not so much for an entire body panel. I was thinking you could have just used the 3d print you used to make the mold for the replacement transmission tunnel for the MG.
Looks awesome! Any thoughts about splitting it into multiple pieces? I worry what happens when someone hits a shopping cart into it, replacing the whole thing if it gets damaged seems nuts.
I will be making molds for carbon fiber parts
Personally, I wOuld have kept the original body of the cayman, but your project is very interesting (even if I don’t t like the new design 😊)
What type of plastic is used for the 3D printing filament? Is it ABS? Have you tried plumbing adhesive and primer to glue parts together?
I'll have to try
Hey, I love what you are do here. It's been awhile since I've done any CAD work but, here's my idea anyways... 😀 Have you thought about putting holes in the mating surfaces for alignment pins? Using a chamfer at the bottom and top of the holes would eliminate need for extra 3d printed supports for the holes and give somewhere for the glue to ooze out of the hole without getting onto the flat matching surfaces. The way I'm picturing this is creating a subtraction part shaped like the holes you want in the main part. Then cut and pasting them wherever you want an alignment pin. The planes in the main part used from separating the big part into smaller parts could be used a guide for where the place this subtraction part. Idk if I make any sense but it seems like this would be easy to do in CAD and make putting the parts together easier?
Very nice!
Pretty crafty to first print a scale model and use clay over that before bringing it into CAD. How do you check for accuracy between the CAD model and final 3D print? Was there some sort of prototype you printed before to use a mockup?
Good shit man… I’ve been working the buck for my rear clam for the last month, maybe month and a half and it’s only 80% there…
You have to make these parts to sell to 987 and 718 owners!!! i would buy the kit once it is done!
Nice!
i would actually buy this. if you designed to retro fit 992 lightbar onto cayman ill buy it in a heart beat .
Interesting 🤔
Surprised to see Stirlingkit sponsor this video. Being a common user of their store. In the process of building a skyline RC by using a engine i bought from their store some time back. With them being like a wholesaler of scale and model engines. A lot of companies they work with can give them bad rep. But their customer service is amazing.
Looks good 😮 Interesting method👍
I am using a mouldless carbon fibre for my v12 build😎
Not sure if someone has already mentioned this but sounds like Gloop works the same way PVC pipe cement works, though possibly less agressive with a shorter activation time. I do wonder if the rear spoiler is about 20% too long. Angle is probably ok, but seems too long and may produce some unnecessary drag. Have you tested it to determine the result drag coefficient?
Working with airshaper
I think I'm one of those "new" viewers that UA-cam recommend me to your channel.
Welcome aboard!
very cool!!!
Thanks Friend!
could you add interlocking tabs to the 3d prints to make it easier to gloop together?
Yep
Is your plan to make a mold out of the plastic? If I missed that, I apologize. Looks awesome!
It may be too late at this point, but I'd consider making the entire thing out of multiple pieces such as the diffuser being one large piece, the side vertical aero pieces being separate, and then the rest of the bumper being one piece. I might even suggest the upper spoiler section being it's own separate piece. This would help making the mold for the composite material way less complicated. If you damaged the diffuser portion, you would just need to replace that portion versus the ENTIRE rear bumper.
I probably will
Looks cool, but I personally would have gone with carbon fiber. It would have taken a bit more time depending on how it was done but would have probably been stronger and 1/2 the weight.
Carbon fiber is the end goal. Going to make a mold from this
👍 nice. I was concerned the plastic might soften in the sun, but if it's just for a mold, then you're one step ahead@@ElectricSuperCar
@@ElectricSuperCar Ah, great job my man, great job! Please post that process, I love working with FRP, CF. and mold making!
This is cool.
I think this might be something you could make money with.
Let's hope so!
awesome🔥🔥🔥
Thanks 🔥
Perhaps design it, that it clips in like a Lego for example. Or like Bricks on a home. More surface area.
What material did you use? PLA, PETG, ABS?
nice but will it hold in speeds and bumps and other stuff ?
Final part will be put of carbon fiber
I hope you are planning to break apart the sections into individual components, such as the bumper cover, the diffuser and the side winglet plates. Would be best to be able to assemble them as components, rather than one large unit, not to mention future serviceability.
Absolutely!
I'm also using 3D scanning to create some small car parts. Could you share which software you use for car body design?
I use SolidWorks
You should have collaborated with an experienced woodworker, those guys can figure ways to clamp pretty much anything. Nice work tho, bumper looks cool!
That would be cool!
I think for composit manufacture you "just" have to identify the isolated surfaces. Like lower bumper, upper bumper, diffusor, top of wing and then make molds for them. You already have the positive.. after laying up these you bond them back together and tadaaa.. (I hope I could convey the basic idea, not the naive view)
I love this project and everything you do, thank you for sharing all of this with us! The plastic welder is amazing, those little staple things are cool. Now, I know nothing about 3d printing, but for a big piece like this, wouldn't adding some male/female joints save a lot of the work you had to do in this video for creating stable unions? **EDIT** I continued watching the video, and I see that this bumper is just a placeholder. So maybe the extra modeling work wouldn't be worth it, especially if you're just going to be using it as a structure for shaping the finished product.