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Removing the skin of a vintage travel trailer
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- Опубліковано 30 кві 2013
- Here is my build album. picasaweb.goog...
And here is the rather depressing album of taking her apart and finding rot: picasaweb.goog...
There are a couple of good trailer repair discussion groups you might also find helpful: vintagetrailert... and
repairingyester... This one is for pre-1970 trailers, but vistitors are welcome and there's lots of good information there.
-Gary
What a gentleman you are taking the time for your assistant to help. Few staples for you, building their confidence and quality time for a lifetime for them.
Thanks! That little assistant is now an 18-year old horse trainer and recent graduate of both high school and EMT school! She was a big help when I was building the trailer and I'm mighty proud of her!
@@Halekini as you should be, im proud of the both of you. And your efforts reaped the rewards of spending time with her.
One of the most informative videos I have seen on You Tube ! No BS just ,"here's how ya do it" .
Thank You Gary Williams !
I was about to take my 1995 travel trailer to the junkyard due to dry rot. But I think I've built up the courage to try repairing it, in part due to this video. Thank you for sharing! Very good video.
Thank you!! You made me less scared and intimidated of handling the skin. I didn’t realize it could be easier that taking the interior apart. Thank you again!!!
Good luck Netty!
Mr. Dirt,
It's easier than removing the interior for a couple of reasons. Many of these trailers had the internal paneling attached to the wall before the wall framing was bolted to the chassis. That means the paneling is sandwiched between the stud wall and the chassis and will have to be cut out to be removed. Also, you may find that cabinets and interior walls were nailed or screwed to the wood frame and roof beams from the outside, before the skin was installed.
So yes, it's easier.
The best instructional Video that I have seen so far on youtube also great pictures in a logical order, you are patient man . Thanks for sharing
Commencing the tear down of a 1975 Scotty found rotting in my neighbor's yard. Than you for the best step by step video. Removing the skin seemed like a highly technical, daunting job-- you break it down into bite size pieces, thank you for your patience and tutoring.
Good luck! Take your time and enjoy the challenge!
Thanks for such a simple, informative video. It is very helpful to me. You are lucky to have such a wonderful young assistant!
Mighty lucky to have her in my life. The middle grand daughter.
One of the best tutorial videos I've seen!!! You are quite the craftsman!! You remind me of my own dad, very patient and results reflect it. Job well done!!
fantastic video. I have the same year and will be needing to do this
Hi Gary. This is my first time watching your videos. Very informative, and I really like how patient you are. Your granddaughter was a big help! You remind me of Mr. Rogers. Informative, a good teacher, patient and soft spoken! Nice meeting you~
Well thanks! Nice meeting you too!
Love watching this video! It helped me out so much! Also love seeing the kiddos get involved! Making great memories
That kiddo is now a 911 EMT, getting ready to start paramedic school. She is also a professional horseshoer!
@@Halekini that’s awesome! Good for her!
This was the best video we have watched yet. Thank you! We have a 66 aristocrat so this is perfect!
Thanks. Good luck with yours!
Great video Gary and fabulous assistant you have. Sound advice and I appreciate the step-by-step instructions.
Thank you so much for this video. I have a '58 Cardinal and knew I needed to change the putty but was a little afraid of doing it. Now I feel as if I can truly correct many of the problems that I see on my trailer and not just do a band aid fix like the previous owners did. Again, thanks.
Thank you for not having a music track. :)
Haha.. Just now reading these, and someone above just suggested "We need a music track." I'm with you though... sometimes those music tracks can be pretty annoying.
@@Halekini most of the time , myself I like to hear the work ,,,,,and the foul language lol
Thank you so much for this video! I was overwhelmed when I realized I need to remove the skin to fix the rot underneath. This video makes the job seem a lot less daunting.
This was a really well made video. Thank you kind sir for putting it together. Lots of great tips and helpful advice. Especially about how delicate these panels are and how to brace them for removal to avoid kinking the sheets!! Just purchased a 1975 Safari 700, it's not the same model as yours but I would imagine the construction is the same. It has been "modified" (axel flipped for clearance) for hunting! If the walls could talk in this one. It has been bumped and dragged through some backroads, to say the least. But it should be a fun reno!!! If anyone out there has a manual for this vintage of trail I would love to have one!!! Not much t be found on the web by this company prior to 1991.
Carla Bower good luck, Carla!
My partner is a mechanic and will be doing the axel flip back to it's regular position, appliance repairs and bearing repacks and such, I will be learning as I go but your video is so helpful!!
i made a great tool for getting the old staples out without ruining the metal .i took a screwdriver and groung a tiny prybar that i would tap in,under the crown and pry it up enought to get under it.i kept a small neodinium magnet on it to hold the scrap staples.panals come off clean .no screwing around with rusted jaged staples stuck in the panels.i'm going on summer number 2 replacing rot on a 1969 fireball 20 foot .it was really rough.
Thanks Gary! Felt intimidated replacing some rot and this video really put me at ease! I know getting everything done is a job but I still am in love with my little trailer and it's so worth the work!!! Keep up the videos! You are inspiring to watch!!!
a good tip to use while scraping anything off of the metal would be to use a tool called a bone that is essentially a plastic scraper to protect your painted service and prevent gouging your metal.also a good clean up product that isn't too harshon paint is acrysol, it is an adhesive remover but works well removing the putty.
Good tips, jayocular. I looked up Acrysol and they sell it on Amazon. Here's a link for others who might want to try it.: www.amazon.com/INSTALLBAY-P20005-Spray-Products-ACRYSOL/dp/B00FMS48XU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419224381&sr=8-1&keywords=acrysol
How about posting a link to the "bone?"
Thanks,
Gary
No longer available
Excellent video. I think I might purchase an older trailer someday, and this knowledge will definitely come in handy. I appreciate your patience and the time it took to capture all of this on video. Thank You!
the kid helping was a beautiful touch 😊
Thank you so much for this video! It took me forever to figure out how to resolve a similar issue w my timberline 1970.
Very thorough and informative. Thanks for taking the time to share this process with all of us! Very helpful!
I love your informative video! My husband and I want to fix up our 1965 Lo-Liner that we got from his dad, who received it from his father, who bought it new. removing the skin has been my biggest worry as my husband is not a handy guy, thankfully for us I am and also know how to use UA-cam to find videos like yours! I have to remove the skin to redo the plumbing and to remove the propane refrigerator. Removing the skin is still nerve wracking but I believe I can do this!
Nicole Stout You can do it Nicole! Let me know how it goes. Good luck!
I have a '61 Oasis, 15ft, this is very helpful for me! I am so glad I found your video.
I learned alot. I have to pull the skin on my 1974 prowler soon. Thank you
Good luck Lori!
First video ive ran across that is actually informative with quality video. I appreciate you taking the time for this. Thank you.
So helpful! Thanks so much for making and posting this video. Starting to fix up my new '72 Aristocrat Lo Liner.
Sir - you did a fantastic job in your presentation. I learned some valuable lessons this day ... thanks for the tips
Funny that I just bought the exact same trailer and this is a good preview of my pain.
Thank you. You have gave me confidence I can do this
Thank you for sharing Gary, you make it look easy.
Thanks for the info. I am restoring a 59 Shasta and this will help me a lot.
Great video! Very informative. You are very meticulous and a very good teacher. Thank you so much!
Thank you very much for this additional information. I'll take a look when I get her back from the repair shop that is replacing propane lines for me.
Very helpful as I will need to do that to the front of my 'vintage' old trailer. I now know what to do. Thanks! I only wish I had a covered area to do it in.
Great video. In the process of repairing rot on my 1972 Robin Hood Class C. This is very useful information for siding repair.(which I need)
Good job Gary. Nice to have some help.
Thank you.
Wow....you really have patience....great video
Thanks so much for this video. I'm starting a restoration and was intimidated by the prospect.
Good luck! It's just a series of small(ish) tasks. Congratulate yourself on the completion of each one! My restoration took quite a long time, but it's the journey, not the destination.
Excellent video Gary and teaching skills..........Now go camping.....
Funny you should mention that. I am actually camping right now, in Joshua Tree National Park. Sitting at my dinette table sipping coffee. Cheers!
Thanks for posting this Gary. Well done!
Way to go Marcy ! Great instructional video
I want to say thank you. Very good information. I am going have to rebuild the lower front and rear of a 1964 Century 16 foot. There is so much damage to the interior I am just going to make the trailer into a utility trailer. Cost factor. But again thank you for your video.
By the way, the Picasa album of your trailer rebuild is fascinating. You're very talented, and your trailer is gorgeous.
I recently got a 77 Dodge motorhome. your video will help me in repairing. Thanks.
Alex, I think my compressor was running at the full 90 to 100 pounds but I was using about 125 feet of hose so that probably dropped the pressure some. You just need to experiment with a piece of scrap metal and the kind of wood you're using to dial your yours in.
Very happy you posted this video ~ thank you:)
Thank you! Great video!
Are you taking any applications for grandsons? I would love to have a grandfather like you - thumbs up for sure
Haha... thanks, but the applications are closed... That granddaughter is turning 21 in a couple days, and has been hired as the first ever female firefighter in her home town's department. She's an EMT studying to become a paramedic. Mighty proud!
Tim,
I hope you do give it a go. A total rebuild is a fairly big job overall, but just think of it as a bunch of small jobs, and before you know it, you'll be done.
I added some links to the video description above, including the complete album of my rebuild.
Good luck!
-Gary
Thanks for sharing 🌿
looking at an old camper tomorrow - sure wish I could take you! Thanks for the info
Really good video, thanks!
Practical and easy to understand, thanks, really good video
What an excellent video! Very informative......thank you!
I guess I misspoke slightly about the top/front/back. Mine (and probably yours) did have seams about the level of the front and back windows. See photo 27 in the link I just added to "taking her apart" up in the video description. So you can remove the bottom part of the front/back, and just leave the roof section lying on top of the trailer, unless you have rot up there too. Check around your skylight if you have one.
Good luck,
Gary
Hi Gary,
Great video! Fun stuff...
Thank you very much for such an informative video.
Grate video. Thank You
Great video....
Nicely done video. Very informative.
Fantastic video thank you! this is whole new & interesting world for me!!! 🌝
Good luck Josephine!
there is only one way to fix camper walls. be it the replacing of wall studs or delaminated inside paneling, you must go from outside in. and make sure the camper is perfectly level, before stapling the metal back on. take your time .
Thanks, Very good info I hope I never have to use... Although I may very well go ahead and re do the windows as you suggested especially since I plan to repaint it anyways
Thank you, I'll be needing to do this soon.
Thanks for the video. I loved it. very easy to understand.
Thanks Karen,
Good luck with your Cardinal!
-Gary
Thank you very much for this video. I learned a lot.
im sorry, one more thing to add,if you are going to use staples, just know that steel or even stainless steel cannot be used on aluminum,it will corrode and fall out,you can only use aluminum on aluminum in any kind of fastening as steel and aluminum do not mate.
All of the old original staples I pulled out were steel, and yes they were pretty rusty, but still there after 40 years. They should all be well covered with butyl putty tape, which helps keep moisture away from them. All my new staples were steel, although for the exposed screws in the J-rail, I used stainless.
Also, the staples are really mostly redundant once the J-rail is screwed on, since the rail covers the staples and the screws go through the two layers and into the wood in the same place as the staples.
I've never seen aluminum staples, and imagine there would be a lot of the collapsing problem I had with mine, as shown in the video. Even though the aluminum skin is pretty thin, penetrating two layers of it and sinking into wood framing is not an easy job, even for steel.
Do you have a source for aluminum staples that would penetrate adequately and hold tight?
Thanks,
Gary
+jayocular Called "dissimilar metals". I was at Lockheed when the "wrong nuts and bolts" problem on those C-103s happened! That was my job but day shift decided to change parts because of the pain in the arse it was to put those 4 bolts onto a U channel while standing on their heads inside the wing on the jig! 4 bolts in 5 air craft but several wings before and after those 4 had to have the tank bladders removed just to inspect the washer and nut on the bolts!
That is a very legitimate problem even if it's covered with another panel. The little hole it can make in the metal can also be like a virus and eat it's way to the outside as corrosion doesn't stop. The tape will keep it from going that way but it has the staple to feed on inside the wood.
Hi Shannon,
I recommend you check out the groups linked to the video description above. They're free and full of good information and helpful people.
There's also a link up there to my photo album if you want to see how I did my trailer.
I don't know of a book,but if you read and ask questions in the forums, you can learn a lot.
Good luck,
Gary
thank you for posting,very good
they are probably just twisty Nails. You can still buy those. They're supposed to hold better than regular nails but you can still just pull them out with a claw hammer.
Great tips! Thank you!
Id also like to add to my credibility a little by adding that I work in service on rvs.
I'm currently restoring a 70s slide-in truck camper and had to remove the skin. This video will help me a lot when I go to reskin it. What was your air pressure set at for the stapler?
great info. Good assistant.
Thanks, Mary!
Great information! thank you!!!
REALLY GOOD VIDEO!
Thanks Gary! :)
getting them back on was not as easy as i thought it would be.my first one i got on all messed up and had to do it over .
Thanks for posting this video. My '75 Shasta has wood rot at the bottom on the front, right above the hitch. I know this because screws don't stay in along the bottom edge. Since the front, top, and back are all one piece, when I loosen it, what do I do while I'm replacing the wood? Just prop it up?
Good info, helped when doing repairs. I'm actually looking for some aluminum trim to replace the cracked plastic on my dinette "wings". I like the look of the ones you used, but must be daft,, I can't find anything like it, so where did you get it?
Hi Mike,
I got the edge molding here: www.prohmi.com/aluminum_face_nosing_moldings_s/130.htm
I paid them a little extra to cut it to shorter lengths that could be sent by UPS.
Good luck!
Gary
Hope you used stainless staples or you'll be doing that again
Another reason to garage your trailer
Very informative. Nice Aristocrat too! Thanks for sharing! Posted on pinterest aristocratvt
thank you, very interesting
Thank you. Great video. Now I see it’s not so scary to remove the skin! I think I could do that.
Sure you can! Good luck, Laura!
Great video! Do you know where I can find reliable information about how to replace the water damaged frame, particularly the curved parts / corners? And after that is done, should I seal the windows and seams before replacing paneling? Thank you for your help. Are you aware of a good book about how to restore a vintage trailer? :)
can tell your know your stuff .. thanks great video
So, I removed all the windows and trim and then went to remove the bottom panel and its under the frame! What do I do now???
I started to remove the skin from my 1966 Scotty Highlander. When I started to remove the J-rails I found they are fastened with some kind of strange nails that are twisted inside the wood. Does anyone know how to take these nails out? I am at a loss.
Where do you buy new j rail?
Flange??? Is it part of the metal price?
I have a 1971 Scamper Trailer that has been wrecked in Hail, and it was old and we weren't using for anything but storing stuff in anyways... I want to separate the canopy from the chassis, and just use it as a flat deck trailer around the farm.... Is there an easy way to do this?
TheFarmerfitz Not sure what that one looks like. There was a Skamper, spelled with a K, which should come apart pretty much like mine, and of course the Scamp, which was fiberglass. If it's a travel trailer that has any hope of restoration, why not put it on Craigslist and see if it can go to someone willing to restore it? Then take the money and buy a flatbed. If you do tear it down, pulling the skin will reveal the attachment screws where the walls attach to the frame. It might not be a very heavy duty farm trailer though. Check the springs and axle and the condition of the frame before you undertake the job. And be prepared to haul away a lot of wood and metal. I was able to take my aluminum siding to a recycle place and actually got a little money for it.
Good luck!
Gary Williams Thanks...It is spelled like I spelled it... It's a 1971, 19' single axle, but it was a bit of a heavy beast, so I'm thinking that without the weight of the canopy, it would be a handy light duty trailer I could put a slow moving sign on it maybe... It needed a lot of restoring before the hail(we quit using it for camping way before the hail hit it..lol... well actually 2 bad hail storms).... And then, My aunt inlaw has the same make and a bear got into hers and wrecked the door, so we swapped, so now it has no door really... And then hail broke all the windows and top vents and dented it all up... It's basically either separate it from chassis, advertise it for free, or take it to the dump(if they'll take it)... My location is out of the way so it's hard to sell it because no one wants to drive a long ways for a wrecked trailer that varmants have already been in...lol...
Gary, what size staples did you use, Brand? Thanks enjoyed the video!!
Well, you'll see in the video that for the repair I switched to 1/4" wide, 3/4" long cabinet staples. Mine happened to be Bostich, but you will need to get what's right for your gun. You'll definitely need a pneumatic gun, not one of those spring-loaded things that you squeeze, and while a wider staple might be better, make sure it's long enough to hold well, and strong enough to penetrate the metal.