Thanks a lot! I used this guide to align my car after viewing like 12 other guides involving either tape measure, string, or whatever. It may not be perfect to the exact degree, but it sure works. And even then, the last time I had a shop align my car, it still leaned slightly to the right. Thanks!
It's to add stability. Front and rear wheel drive vehicles have opposite toe because they torque differently when accelerating etc. It's to compensate for that. Black Hawk helicopters are kind of the same way with their tail rotor. It's not straight up and down- it's tilted to help stabilize the roll of the heli. Any time something twists or turns it has angular momentum and angular procession applies as well as just vehicle torque flex.
A GREAT & CREATIVE idea that makes perfect sense. I also took my 2000 Dodge Ram short bed 4x4 with 9 inch lift. Took it to "4 WHEEL PARTS and had the same situation. Thanks for the COMMON SENCE IDEAS. Seemed they were more concerned about where lunch was gunna be.... Thank you, I'll keep watching. Richard in NORTH TEXAS.
I know this video is 8 years ago, but... you were saying how you did fantastic job of doing your job even though you didn't really know how to do that particular job. Well... you.. take heart in everything you do. That's what makes a difference.
I've done this on several vehicles that I've done front end work on. I always tell the customer to get it aligned (I'm a back alley mechanic) and a few never got it aligned. Thousands of miles later, these vehicles still drive fine and do not wear the tires unevenly. I use newspapers to slip the tires on the pavement.
Thanks for the help on this vid man. I went to a well know big tire store and they told me they couldn't do an alignment unless they replaced all my bushings and dust covers etc. I watched your video (and took way to much time before I actually used it) and now my truck drives better than ever. Huge thanks and I love all your other stuff. Tons of great info.
I'm glad you admit to doing alignments for a living at one point but not knowing what you were really doing. That's why I'm here because the dealership did not know what they were doing at all and it's worse than when I brought it in. So thanks for learning whats going on and teaching the rest of us
Brian, I'm looking at this video 10 years later. And the information you presented here is still 100 percent correct. You've probably saved me over $1000 for alignments. Thanks for a great video !
Your videos are always worth watching. Keep them up! You speak well, exude confidence, and explain things to us novices that will inevitably attempt to do these projects at home with limited experience. For that, thank you! Hopefully you can continue to grow your viewership so these videos will pay off!
He is an artist at low cost high reward repair, but alas it can be high risk too. That's life. The world is a better place because of his work though. I believe in options. I believe in freedom. He creates options. I respect that.
@LinearNavigator Thick clear painter's plastic folded in half three times with baby powder between each fold works better than cookie sheets. Also you can use wood shop clamps sometimes to kind of extend.
Can't thank you enough for this video. I just used this technique on my car and she flys straight down the road without the steering wheel being all cockeyed. Took a total of 20 minutes from start to finish.
Thanks for the explanation of caster/camber. Never really grasped caster before. Big O tire shop in Louisville, CO has done good on my alignments. I run stock tires and automatically get an alignment when buying new tires. Have never had high speed emergencies due to failing steering parts. No low speed ones either. You're a blast to watch and real accessible as a person. Your wife is lucky to have you !
@DodgeMan360 That's normal. Using baby powder between layers of painting plastic under your tires. You can get the toe set pretty close. It will save your tires in the mean time before getting it aligned.
Camber is only adjustable if you have a certain kind of independent front suspension (CV axles/torsion bars) or use a special ball joint. On a solid front axle like this DANA 60F it's not adjustable. For the top of the wheel to lean in would require the ball joint to be bad. Otherwise if you do have IFS check for excentrics on the upper control arm pivot bolts.
This is simple and so brilliant...never thought is possible to see the missalignament by the tire's surfaces.I like you very much...you knowlege and your approach to things is very motivating.
Keep these how to vids coming ma man, for us who don’t have access to all the technology the dealers have you rock! Ty great vid I love doing things myself
44 yr master mech and engineer here. I have done this type of alignment on my vehicles and has worked well. But you forgot the front tires need to toe in one eighth inch each. And never align with rear tores due to that area does not have the same camber angle! Measure back of front tires and front and get equal in tape measure then toe in one 8th inch per side in front
Joe's correct. On a solid axle Dodge, you want zero toe in or, 0.00 - 0.05 total toe in measurement. On these Dodge solid axle rigs, one will encounter wander and darting coupled with excessive tire wear on the outer edges and decreased mileage when toed in. If memory serves me correct, the toe-in is employed in applications sporting independent suspension as a work-around for bushing movement / compliance and other factors that were unpredictable during real-world applications when set at zero toe in so, OEMs spec'd out .125 total toe in measurement as a workaround to aid in tracking to compensate for compliance.
Yeah im sure my dana 44 straight axle dodge will love camber ....gtfoh ricer boy no body want camber on their truck and if I ever took my shit to a shop and they put camber on my truck id be highly pissed camber is for so called "stance" not daily drivers an a work truck at that
String works great. Tie string to trailer ball pull around back tire to front across tires. Sometimes a pain with mudders like you said but can get damn close like that
Thanks. The camber adjustment on this solid axle would be a special upper ball joint replacement. Depending on your control arms you may have some excentric bolts with cam washers to accomplish that ie. Chevy.
This is Awesome! I just replaced ball joints, drag link, track bars and tie rod ends today on my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500. I know it is not as beefy as the 3/4 ton but the set up is identical and now I can try your ideas on an alignment as I also put brand new BFGs on it 2 weeks ago and have no desire to ruin them anytime soon. Thanks for the tips.
@00dodgecummins fill the tank and reset odometer. Drive in highway 300+ miles. Get off freeway. Fill up tank. Divide current trip odometer by gallons of gas pumped. 25.21 Given my mud tires are low on tread/resistance. I do have Edge Juice with Attitude and new bearings, huge exhaust, new wheel joints, and I drive kinda conservatively where I can. The Edge stuff helped the most. I was getting like 14 before on the average no matter what I did.
@Avinash1943 That can be pretty effective too. On this truck there's obstructions that prevent that from being possible on the back of the wheel. It also takes a bit more time to put a tack in the tread to hold and hook the tape. I'm also doing this with just me so hooking the tape can be tough. For the effort vs effectiveness I choose to do it this way. As the title says "quick and dirty."
A lot of the times the alignment rack isn't always spot on when it comes to adjusting lifted trucks like yours I as an alignment tech at time struggle to make the eclipse effect you illustrated which to me now makes so much sense. Thanks for the tutorial.
I had a Pathfinder with wide wheels that was horrid after they did the alignment, almost too dangerous to drive. They had to get a senior out and he did it without going by the computer and it was perfect afterwards!
@Vacmasterthegreat How's the fishing where you live? J/K It's best to fix the worn parts, but if they won't align it, you might as well do what you can in the mean time or convince them to align it free of liability as close as they can.
This video is awesome. I recently bought an 86 F-250 4x4 and i'm trying to see how little cash I can spend getting it back in shape. Both tie rod ends need replacing and therefore an alignment must be done. I also heard you can use plastic trays from the food court to do this. Thanks for the handy video!
@epiphaknee You have to center the wheel first and then make the primary wheel straight to it. Then set toe on the other wheel. It's an order of operations thing. Some teachers I've had say you can't center the wheel, but then I just would any way.
I did alignments for a year and learned to hate the Lazer computer.. we had the mechanical set up and I loved it.. I ought to put one together and show you what we did.. it would even compensate for a tire or wheel that is bent or not quite strait (for toe adjustment anyway) I ought to make the camber/caster gauge but that will be a bit tricky.. loved the cookie sheet idea though. that is a good trick!
Great "How to.." video. After watching your video, i watched several others and decided to give it a try. I had attempted to use another guys measurement technique that was a fail. So i fallowed your eclipsing method. It worked out perfectly i must say that getting those connectors to turn took quite a bit of determination. In the end it all worked great It gos to show ya gotta listen when a Utahan is telling how it is. Thanks again.
It's tough to say without looking at it. I would say check the input shaft angle from the steering wheel to the gear box. You may be able to make the wheel and pitman be right together and then adjust the wheels. That would be ideal. Some have 20 or so teath/options at the union just before going through the firewall.
I have a 03 Cummins turbo diesel crewcab dually. And i went through the alignment shuffle too! My truck was eating tires though. I ended up doing my own alignment. And its a little better. Im gonna try your way after I replace a few parts. Thank you!
right on thank you! cheers from Wv. I have a 2000 1500 ram and the outside edges of the front tires are wearing faster than the rest. Id assume it has some mild tow in. Imma try this method out! thank you!
This was in the recommended videos for me. Funny to see it as I've eye-balled MANY alignments and have had good success. Sometimes I'll measure the toe in/out with something but it all starts with eye balling it and maybe throwing a level on the rim to make sure camber is about zero if I had the ball joints, struts etc out. The Durango I have in my older videos where I did the ball joints on camera, I never took in for an alignment. I just did my magic and it never pulled and never wore the tires funny. Meanwhile just this last week my coworker had to take his work van in to the alignment shop more than two times to get it right! He'd pick it up and the thing would change lanes automatically because they trusted their alignment machine and yet it was so off!
Thanks for the video Brian! good job. Perhaps it would be beneficial to mention that Castor, the rearward tilt of the axle, is typically responsible for the "pull" of the steering. Typically, the vehicle pulls to the side with the least amount of caster. Also, I'm jealous of that gorgeous 2500 Cummins. I had an identical truck to that and the 2011 GM I'm driving now really doesn't compare. Its also important to mention that 2wd trucks, as with all rear wheel drive vehicles, are intended to have some toe in, and FWD or cars, have toe out
Way to get to the point! This has been so helpful for my 2001 Ram 4x4. Guy before me got it stuck, pulled it out by the steering gear after they ripped off the torsion bar.
Any videos showing how to adjust the caster and camber? Your explanation of what each is was really clear, but I'm pretty sure I need to adjust both on my '98 Ram. The steering is really loose, and the driver-side front tire is leaning inward. Thanks for a great video!
I’m very glad that this video was made for y-steering assembly trucks, but does the steering wheel have to be tied down or left loose for the upper adjustment after toe?
Double check that the spring of the t-stat is toward the engine and the bubble burper is at the top. Other than that you just have to bleed the air out of the system. It may be necessary to loosen a hose clamp on the heater hose to burp some air out too.
Thanks! Did all tie rod ends on my 06 2500 Ram and it didn't feel "right" driving around the neighborhood, both tires were toe'd in slighly. Felt like the steering was fighting itself driving down the road. Followed your advice and now she drives straight down the road, or at least enough to get me to my alignment next week.
I have to let you know that because of me using this idea for an alignment (is awesome by the way, although I don't have concrete so I didn't need the platters), but this showed me that one of my rear axle tubes on my 12 valve is bent. which is why it (even with the front set perfect) still pulled hard to the left. I figured I'd let you know that if it wasn't for your string idea I was wouldn't have any idea. THANK YOU BRIAN!!
I'd never seen that adjustable drag link. Cool. I have an old E250. If the steering wheel is off you have to adjust both sides again. I did get all point perfect after about five tries... mostly for the sake of the steering wheel That eclipsing method Isn't a bad idea, but some vehicles have a wider front tracking than rear. Mine is front track, 69.4 in. Rear track, 67.0 in. Eclipsing would cause tow-out. You do not want tow-out on a rear wheel drive vehicle. I used the tape measure on the outside treads of both front tires. The tires were new so the treads were reliable. Measure behind and in front of the wheels. Adjust the collars so the same measure is front and back. Then pull in one wheel or the other about 1/32 of an inch. That gives 1/16th difference front and back with toe-in. That's just about right for most heavy duty vehicles. If the steering wheel is off to the right then put that 1/32 adjustment on the left wheel, and vice versa. Repeat if necessary. Toe-in is essential. When the rear wheels push, the weight of the vehicle flexes the steering links. Toe-in assures the wheels run true when in motion.
@epiphaknee I'm sure it would work, but it would have to be mounted on a jig that spanned the diameter of the wheel.- Something you could line up consistently.
brian, a buddy of mine showed me a nascar trick using a string tied off to the rear of the vehicle (hitch?) and pull the string tight against the 2 outer surfaces of the rear tire wall and run it all the way to the front edge of the front tire. with a tight string, you can see if both edges of the front tires touch the string or if one edge doesn't touch, then you can tangibly see if the wheels are straight or if you need to adjust.
You can use a couple of floor tiles with the smooth sides together and a bit of grease between them for slip-plates. Also, try using string attached to jack-stands to line up front-to-rear.
I just bought a 1996 Ram 1500. The steering is kinda sloppy (I can turn the wheel about 1/8 of the way around before it catches) so I'm seeing if I can tighten up the gear box. The front tires were also worn almost bald on the outsides. I just replaced them and will try your alignment method. My steering wheel is also VERY crooked, so I appreciate the screw driver tip. Thanks!
Most likely yes. It just depends on what is causing the problem. Check spring to axle mounting, spring to frame mounts, and check the axle for bending.
Weird how things can feel more accurate when you eyeball it. I have the same problem with tuning guitars. People always use those little electronic tuners. I find that a lot of times with cheaper guitars you have to trust your ear. Either the intonation, the timbre or competing resonant frequencies... something makes the precision tuned guitars sound off, but if you make it sing first and trust your ear it sounds better.
You need to start with centering the steering wheel first assuming it hasnt been pulled and put back on crooked, thats what centers the steering pitman arm and more importantly the worm gear inside the steering box which is tight to the pinion gear in the center and compensating as it goes to the left or right stop its imperitive the wheel / box is centered first on a backyard job or shop. once that is centered, then align the front to rear wheels as you have shown, each one separate as necessary, best for most use a carpenters string line pull tight around back of truck over center of rear wheels and then forward, tape a spacer to the rear wheel and its easier to keep the space the same than try and have the string tough tires, its fail safe. once both are done then adjust the toe in 1/4 turn on each side evenly until a tape measure shows it 1/8 of an inch narrower in front than back, do NOT go zero toe thats what inspired this response it is dangerous and to answer the question below of how you adjust the camber there are elliptical cylinder " camber / caster shims " that work with the ball joints for that. yes you can do this at home and do a better job than a new school shop that has no common sense, think it out, be safe
You should get the underbody rustproofed (oil sprayed). The oil keeps all the oxygen from reacting with all the iron and creating what we know as rust. Metal loves oil:) Up here in Canada we have Krown Rust Control and they do a good job at it using a vegetable-based oil.
Hello just came across your tutorial. Nice. It's nice to see someone who enjoys their profession. A thinker. I have mechanical background and enjoy working repairing my own vehicles and anyone else's vehicles if asked. Some things I can't do on my own I seek out references.
Thanks for the tip. Thinking about it, I have a bend in mine. The bar isn't adjustable like yours, but I had hit a curb, bending it. I need to replace parts.
Great video man! Have been doing my own alignments for awhile now and love it...especially doing it quicker and not having to sit waiting bored to death and your right they never care if the sides match as long as its in the green even if thats a broad spectrum. I use the string method with jack stands since front meats stick out farther then rear meats? I like the explanation about caster it was perfect! I run 0* toe and it seems fine using a engineering rule with 64th.
Thanks for this video ! I just aligned my Hummer H2 using this method, and it works great. In fact, it now tracks better than with any alignment I've ever had at a professional shop. BTW, I found the alignment pins were missing from my left upper control arm cams. I don't know why the shops didn't fix that before attempting an alignment. They told me my H2 had a bad rack and pinion, so it would never hold an alignment.
I replaced my all my tie rods and the wood-sawing feeling went away. then I used your great method to align the wheels and for once my truck drives straight. also, on the adjuster, the two bolts are supposed to lock it in place correct? I bought new ones and I have them tightened down as much as possible and it still turns without much effort.
You adjust the toe independently. The collar between the pitman arm and the drag link is solely for adjusting the steering wheel center. Not all cars/trucks have this.
I set the steering wheel to the right tire first with both wheels off the ground. Then lower the right wheel and have the left wheel unweighted, but close to the ground and set the toe.
Don't think spheres- think plates. I'm eclipsing the tires independently AND at the same time. I'm only minding the surface that touches the curb when you park *(circularly)
Hi! Thanks for the great tip! I've tried another "ruff" way of toe adjustment with something called a "toe rod". Don't know if that is anyhow more accurate but with that method you can put it 1-1,5 degree negative and just not zero it. Newer driven a truck with zero of toe but a normal passenger car can't be fun!
Thanks for posting this instructional video. It was super helpful for my 5.9 96 4x4 alignment. Looks like you spent some good money on those bushwackers, rims and tires. I love your setup, I'm jealous.
This works if your front and rear track width are the same. If the rear is wider, not only will it look different when you check by eye, but you're likely to end up with toe in and if the rear is narrower, you may end up with toe out. A small toe out (less than half a degree) should be fine for a permanently driven front axle. This is just my opinion. Track alignment was part of my tire fitting job, but it was a good 25+ years ago. ;¬)
I own and operate a shop and have done this method for 35 YEARS sighting off the rear tires toeing the fronts in about an eighth of an inch (centering the steering wheel of couse...using 2 bungee straps anchored to the brake pedal helps keep the steering wheel from moving) It may not be exact but I guarantee it is real close! I always recommend my customers get a front end alignment but they never do because they trust what I do.
Thanks for the video, I just got an old chevy and new tires arrive tomorrow. I didn't wanna pay anybody to align it because I figured there was a good at home way to do this, especially for me since I drive a car every day, the truck is only for occasional use.
If the guy you went to didn't do a good job...it may be that he didn't do anything at all. I know from experience years back that many garages would claim to adjust alignment but never even touch the vehicle. Or the nuts were seized so they didn't bother. But still charged you. Things are better these days since the internet and general scrutiny on garages and their tricks, so they are doing their best to be honest.
Just provide the air a means of escape at the highest point in the system while adding coolant in a funnel or device that can attach to the radiator. Just let the air be pushed out till coolant begins to spill.
Question? When you turn the driver side sleeve for the tie-rod, will it only affect toe on that tire or does it affect passenger side as well? I was curios if it would cause toe to move on passenger tire as well. Thanks in advance
I like the video and it helped a great deal. However, I have a 2005 Ram 1500 and there is no adjusting knuckle. The only adjustment was to take lose the tie rod end and turn it in/out. I have never seen anything like this. Have you? I used a string and after getting it close, I took it out on the interstate and it drives like new. I didn't have a breaker bar so I sprayed some "Fabulous Blaster PB Powerful Penetrating Catalyst" spray and it worked with very little effort. I would highly recommend using this on any bolts/nuts hard to break free. This was my first time replacing tie rod ends and your video was the best I could find. Thanks.
Awesome video.. I have been wanting to do this for a long time due to crooked steering and new ball joints I put on along with tie rod ends.. Thanks for the intel.
your videos are awesome, i learn something every time i watch...thx man, just got myself an 03 f150 4.6 about 7 weeks ago and i like doing diy stuff to it, keep up the vids.
Scotty is a cool guy lots of good info from him, Anyhow how would I set the casters, like what should I look for, I have spent huge money doing the front end on my 2008 dodge ram everything is new I have put a leveling kit in as well and this is where the caster adjustment I think is needed I too took the truck in to a shop with the lazer set up alignment computer he replaced the caster bolts and the bolts came with the arm where the casters go through just so he could set the casters, anyhow with the two inch leveling kit do the casters need be set different then the stock setting? the truck drives straight it just seems the steering is very touchy and super sensitive so once I need to correct the truck from wandering out of its lane I can do this in a split second and spill coffee all over the place, and ya its a 2008 dodge ram mega cab 4x4 diesel.
for toe in/out, i use a couple 2'x4's of 4' or so length lined up along the sidewalls of the front tires. assuming your tires have no bulges, you have a little bit longer gauge to see how far off one (or both) are from straight forward. most cars have a small degree of allowable toe as well... really some tolerance .
Just found your channel (subscribed) and two huge thumbs up and many thanks. I will have to eventually have to adjust the valves, etc.. on my crf450r (no idea since I've always been a twostroke racer) and then saw you also help with common truck problems. Your vids are down to Earth, uses common tools and will save me ALOT of money I'm sure. Wish you had a paypal account set up so I could donate a few bucks for what you will no doubt save me. Thanks Brian.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Doing things by eye works for me and once you showed the driver's side eclipse, bingo, simple and easy . No string or other tools needed.
Question: I took my Dakota in to have the rack and pinion replaced and have an alignment done. Prior to that, I tightened my torsion keys to level my truck. Is it common for a place to LOWER the front end BACK down, even a little, for the sake of adjusting the camber?
i love the eclipsing method to align the fronts with the rears. it's a really simple, ingenious method!
Thanks a lot! I used this guide to align my car after viewing like 12 other guides involving either tape measure, string, or whatever. It may not be perfect to the exact degree, but it sure works. And even then, the last time I had a shop align my car, it still leaned slightly to the right. Thanks!
Cars almost always pull to the right because roads are not perfectly centered to get rain to run off.
It's to add stability. Front and rear wheel drive vehicles have opposite toe because they torque differently when accelerating etc. It's to compensate for that. Black Hawk helicopters are kind of the same way with their tail rotor. It's not straight up and down- it's tilted to help stabilize the roll of the heli. Any time something twists or turns it has angular momentum and angular procession applies as well as just vehicle torque flex.
A GREAT & CREATIVE idea that makes perfect sense. I also took my 2000 Dodge Ram short bed 4x4 with 9 inch lift. Took it to "4 WHEEL PARTS and had the same situation. Thanks for the COMMON SENCE IDEAS. Seemed they were more concerned about where lunch was gunna be.... Thank you, I'll keep watching. Richard in NORTH TEXAS.
I know this video is 8 years ago, but... you were saying how you did fantastic job of doing your job even though you didn't really know how to do that particular job. Well... you.. take heart in everything you do. That's what makes a difference.
I've done this on several vehicles that I've done front end work on. I always tell the customer to get it aligned (I'm a back alley mechanic) and a few never got it aligned. Thousands of miles later, these vehicles still drive fine and do not wear the tires unevenly.
I use newspapers to slip the tires on the pavement.
At least we can still use them for something besides bird cages....
Newspaper is a great idea, thanks
Every time i look for videos on car repair i always take them with a grain of salt.When i find yours, I KNOW i got the right one. Thanks.
Thanks for the help on this vid man. I went to a well know big tire store and they told me they couldn't do an alignment unless they replaced all my bushings and dust covers etc. I watched your video (and took way to much time before I actually used it) and now my truck drives better than ever. Huge thanks and I love all your other stuff. Tons of great info.
All i have to say is THANKS! your videos have helped me a lot and saved me hundreds in mechanic fees!
I'm glad you admit to doing alignments for a living at one point but not knowing what you were really doing. That's why I'm here because the dealership did not know what they were doing at all and it's worse than when I brought it in. So thanks for learning whats going on and teaching the rest of us
Brian, I'm looking at this video 10 years later. And the information you presented here is still 100 percent correct. You've probably saved me over $1000 for alignments. Thanks for a great video !
Your videos are always worth watching. Keep them up! You speak well, exude confidence, and explain things to us novices that will inevitably attempt to do these projects at home with limited experience. For that, thank you! Hopefully you can continue to grow your viewership so these videos will pay off!
He is an artist at low cost high reward repair, but alas it can be high risk too. That's life. The world is a better place because of his work though. I believe in options. I believe in freedom. He creates options. I respect that.
@LinearNavigator Thick clear painter's plastic folded in half three times with baby powder between each fold works better than cookie sheets. Also you can use wood shop clamps sometimes to kind of extend.
Can't thank you enough for this video. I just used this technique on my car and she flys straight down the road without the steering wheel being all cockeyed. Took a total of 20 minutes from start to finish.
Thanks for the explanation of caster/camber. Never really grasped caster before. Big O tire shop in Louisville, CO has done good on my alignments. I run stock tires and automatically get an alignment when buying new tires. Have never had high speed emergencies due to failing steering parts. No low speed ones either. You're a blast to watch and real accessible as a person. Your wife is lucky to have you !
Watching Brians videos is like switching to Gieco, you'll save tons of money. Thanks for all the help bud.
@DodgeMan360 That's normal. Using baby powder between layers of painting plastic under your tires. You can get the toe set pretty close. It will save your tires in the mean time before getting it aligned.
Wow, Mr. Brian. This was the easiest video that I found on the explanation of the wheel alignment process. Thanks a TON!!!!
Camber is only adjustable if you have a certain kind of independent front suspension (CV axles/torsion bars) or use a special ball joint. On a solid front axle like this DANA 60F it's not adjustable. For the top of the wheel to lean in would require the ball joint to be bad. Otherwise if you do have IFS check for excentrics on the upper control arm pivot bolts.
This is simple and so brilliant...never thought is possible to see the missalignament by the tire's surfaces.I like you very much...you knowlege and your approach to things is very motivating.
funny how this one came up brian, you can see your growth in the seven years. Keep them coming.
Keep these how to vids coming ma man, for us who don’t have access to all the technology the dealers have you rock! Ty great vid I love doing things myself
44 yr master mech and engineer here. I have done this type of alignment on my vehicles and has worked well. But you forgot the front tires need to toe in one eighth inch each. And never align with rear tores due to that area does not have the same camber angle! Measure back of front tires and front and get equal in tape measure then toe in one 8th inch per side in front
You don't set toe-in on a solid axle truck.
Joe's correct. On a solid axle Dodge, you want zero toe in or, 0.00 - 0.05 total toe in measurement. On these Dodge solid axle rigs, one will encounter wander and darting coupled with excessive tire wear on the outer edges and decreased mileage when toed in. If memory serves me correct, the toe-in is employed in applications sporting independent suspension as a work-around for bushing movement / compliance and other factors that were unpredictable during real-world applications when set at zero toe in so, OEMs spec'd out .125 total toe in measurement as a workaround to aid in tracking to compensate for compliance.
Yeah im sure my dana 44 straight axle dodge will love camber ....gtfoh ricer boy no body want camber on their truck and if I ever took my shit to a shop and they put camber on my truck id be highly pissed camber is for so called "stance" not daily drivers an a work truck at that
String works great. Tie string to trailer ball pull around back tire to front across tires. Sometimes a pain with mudders like you said but can get damn close like that
Christopher McKenna I have the problem, I had a level kit installed and I’ve went through 2 sets of mud tires in 3 years. I have to have it fixed ASAP
Thanks. The camber adjustment on this solid axle would be a special upper ball joint replacement. Depending on your control arms you may have some excentric bolts with cam washers to accomplish that ie. Chevy.
This is Awesome! I just replaced ball joints, drag link, track bars and tie rod ends today on my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500. I know it is not as beefy as the 3/4 ton but the set up is identical and now I can try your ideas on an alignment as I also put brand new BFGs on it 2 weeks ago and have no desire to ruin them anytime soon. Thanks for the tips.
@00dodgecummins fill the tank and reset odometer. Drive in highway 300+ miles. Get off freeway. Fill up tank. Divide current trip odometer by gallons of gas pumped. 25.21 Given my mud tires are low on tread/resistance. I do have Edge Juice with Attitude and new bearings, huge exhaust, new wheel joints, and I drive kinda conservatively where I can. The Edge stuff helped the most. I was getting like 14 before on the average no matter what I did.
@Avinash1943 That can be pretty effective too. On this truck there's obstructions that prevent that from being possible on the back of the wheel. It also takes a bit more time to put a tack in the tread to hold and hook the tape. I'm also doing this with just me so hooking the tape can be tough. For the effort vs effectiveness I choose to do it this way. As the title says "quick and dirty."
It was a great intimate moment when you were laying on your back talking to us lol
Squid WithGear I didn't know you were a Briansmobile1 Fan too! lol
TRX450R Vlogger he has some great videos :D
That is for sure.
Squid WithGear *hahahahhahah😂😂😂*
Squid WithGea
I’ve used string lines before around all four tires as a temporary solution to align and then took it to the shop and it ended up being good !
Thank you for being thorough Brian, I appreciate your videos.
A lot of the times the alignment rack isn't always spot on when it comes to adjusting lifted trucks like yours I as an alignment tech at time struggle to make the eclipse effect you illustrated which to me now makes so much sense. Thanks for the tutorial.
@xxsharkbaitxx100 "Camber" can only be adjusted by a special ball joint kit and is very rarely needed.
I had a Pathfinder with wide wheels that was horrid after they did the alignment, almost too dangerous to drive. They had to get a senior out and he did it without going by the computer and it was perfect afterwards!
@Vacmasterthegreat How's the fishing where you live? J/K It's best to fix the worn parts, but if they won't align it, you might as well do what you can in the mean time or convince them to align it free of liability as close as they can.
Thanks for the refresher. I actually certified back in the 90s for brakes and alignment. Been years since I've thought about it real hard.
This video is awesome. I recently bought an 86 F-250 4x4 and i'm trying to see how little cash I can spend getting it back in shape. Both tie rod ends need replacing and therefore an alignment must be done. I also heard you can use plastic trays from the food court to do this. Thanks for the handy video!
@epiphaknee You have to center the wheel first and then make the primary wheel straight to it. Then set toe on the other wheel. It's an order of operations thing. Some teachers I've had say you can't center the wheel, but then I just would any way.
I did alignments for a year and learned to hate the Lazer computer.. we had the mechanical set up and I loved it.. I ought to put one together and show you what we did.. it would even compensate for a tire or wheel that is bent or not quite strait (for toe adjustment anyway) I ought to make the camber/caster gauge but that will be a bit tricky.. loved the cookie sheet idea though. that is a good trick!
Great "How to.." video.
After watching your video, i watched several others and decided to give it a try. I had attempted to use another guys measurement technique that was a fail. So i fallowed your eclipsing method. It worked out perfectly i must say that getting those connectors to turn took quite a bit of determination. In the end it all worked great It gos to show ya gotta listen when a Utahan is telling how it is. Thanks again.
It has a computer "chip" that is piggy backed inline to help control the parameters of feedback so the truck delivers fuel and shifts better.
Thanks! This in combination with the string method did a better job than taking my truck to the shop, and it's FREE!
It's tough to say without looking at it. I would say check the input shaft angle from the steering wheel to the gear box. You may be able to make the wheel and pitman be right together and then adjust the wheels. That would be ideal. Some have 20 or so teath/options at the union just before going through the firewall.
I have a 03 Cummins turbo diesel crewcab dually. And i went through the alignment shuffle too! My truck was eating tires though. I ended up doing my own alignment. And its a little better. Im gonna try your way after I replace a few parts. Thank you!
right on thank you! cheers from Wv. I have a 2000 1500 ram and the outside edges of the front tires are wearing faster than the rest. Id assume it has some mild tow in. Imma try this method out! thank you!
This was in the recommended videos for me. Funny to see it as I've eye-balled MANY alignments and have had good success.
Sometimes I'll measure the toe in/out with something but it all starts with eye balling it and maybe throwing a level on the rim to make sure camber is about zero if I had the ball joints, struts etc out.
The Durango I have in my older videos where I did the ball joints on camera, I never took in for an alignment. I just did my magic and it never pulled and never wore the tires funny.
Meanwhile just this last week my coworker had to take his work van in to the alignment shop more than two times to get it right! He'd pick it up and the thing would change lanes automatically because they trusted their alignment machine and yet it was so off!
Make sure you have the bars for the adjusting sleeves. Some mechanics take them off and toss them.
Thanks for the video Brian! good job. Perhaps it would be beneficial to mention that Castor, the rearward tilt of the axle, is typically responsible for the "pull" of the steering. Typically, the vehicle pulls to the side with the least amount of caster.
Also, I'm jealous of that gorgeous 2500 Cummins. I had an identical truck to that and the 2011 GM I'm driving now really doesn't compare. Its also important to mention that 2wd trucks, as with all rear wheel drive vehicles, are intended to have some toe in, and FWD or cars, have toe out
Way to get to the point! This has been so helpful for my 2001 Ram 4x4. Guy before me got it stuck, pulled it out by the steering gear after they ripped off the torsion bar.
Your trick worked great on my truck. Straight down the road now. Steering was a little harder just to get it centered.
Thanks
Any videos showing how to adjust the caster and camber? Your explanation of what each is was really clear, but I'm pretty sure I need to adjust both on my '98 Ram. The steering is really loose, and the driver-side front tire is leaning inward. Thanks for a great video!
I’m very glad that this video was made for y-steering assembly trucks, but does the steering wheel have to be tied down or left loose for the upper adjustment after toe?
Double check that the spring of the t-stat is toward the engine and the bubble burper is at the top. Other than that you just have to bleed the air out of the system. It may be necessary to loosen a hose clamp on the heater hose to burp some air out too.
Thanks! Did all tie rod ends on my 06 2500 Ram and it didn't feel "right" driving around the neighborhood, both tires were toe'd in slighly. Felt like the steering was fighting itself driving down the road. Followed your advice and now she drives straight down the road, or at least enough to get me to my alignment next week.
I have to let you know that because of me using this idea for an alignment (is awesome by the way, although I don't have concrete so I didn't need the platters), but this showed me that one of my rear axle tubes on my 12 valve is bent. which is why it (even with the front set perfect) still pulled hard to the left. I figured I'd let you know that if it wasn't for your string idea I was wouldn't have any idea. THANK YOU BRIAN!!
I'd never seen that adjustable drag link. Cool. I have an old E250. If the steering wheel is off you have to adjust both sides again. I did get all point perfect after about five tries... mostly for the sake of the steering wheel
That eclipsing method Isn't a bad idea, but some vehicles have a wider front tracking than rear. Mine is front track, 69.4 in. Rear track, 67.0 in. Eclipsing would cause tow-out. You do not want tow-out on a rear wheel drive vehicle.
I used the tape measure on the outside treads of both front tires. The tires were new so the treads were reliable. Measure behind and in front of the wheels.
Adjust the collars so the same measure is front and back. Then pull in one wheel or the other about 1/32 of an inch. That gives 1/16th difference front and back with toe-in. That's just about right for most heavy duty vehicles.
If the steering wheel is off to the right then put that 1/32 adjustment on the left wheel, and vice versa.
Repeat if necessary.
Toe-in is essential. When the rear wheels push, the weight of the vehicle flexes the steering links. Toe-in assures the wheels run true when in motion.
@epiphaknee I'm sure it would work, but it would have to be mounted on a jig that spanned the diameter of the wheel.- Something you could line up consistently.
brian, a buddy of mine showed me a nascar trick using a string tied off to the rear of the vehicle (hitch?) and pull the string tight against the 2 outer surfaces of the rear tire wall and run it all the way to the front edge of the front tire. with a tight string, you can see if both edges of the front tires touch the string or if one edge doesn't touch, then you can tangibly see if the wheels are straight or if you need to adjust.
You can use a couple of floor tiles with the smooth sides together and a bit of grease between them for slip-plates. Also, try using string attached to jack-stands to line up front-to-rear.
I just bought a 1996 Ram 1500. The steering is kinda sloppy (I can turn the wheel about 1/8 of the way around before it catches) so I'm seeing if I can tighten up the gear box. The front tires were also worn almost bald on the outsides. I just replaced them and will try your alignment method. My steering wheel is also VERY crooked, so I appreciate the screw driver tip.
Thanks!
Great video brother, my alignment on my dakota was a little off, with this video I was able to correct the problem. Keep the videos coming.
Most likely yes. It just depends on what is causing the problem. Check spring to axle mounting, spring to frame mounts, and check the axle for bending.
Great Video, My 2005 Ram 2500 pulled to the right, for a while until now... Thanks Brother, You saved me a bunch !!!!!!!!
Weird how things can feel more accurate when you eyeball it. I have the same problem with tuning guitars. People always use those little electronic tuners. I find that a lot of times with cheaper guitars you have to trust your ear. Either the intonation, the timbre or competing resonant frequencies... something makes the precision tuned guitars sound off, but if you make it sing first and trust your ear it sounds better.
You need to start with centering the steering wheel first assuming it hasnt been pulled and put back on crooked, thats what centers the steering pitman arm and more importantly the worm gear inside the steering box which is tight to the pinion gear in the center and compensating as it goes to the left or right stop its imperitive the wheel / box is centered first on a backyard job or shop.
once that is centered, then align the front to rear wheels as you have shown, each one separate as necessary, best for most use a carpenters string line pull tight around back of truck over center of rear wheels and then forward, tape a spacer to the rear wheel and its easier to keep the space the same than try and have the string tough tires, its fail safe. once both are done then adjust the toe in 1/4 turn on each side evenly until a tape measure shows it 1/8 of an inch narrower in front than back, do NOT go zero toe thats what inspired this response it is dangerous and to answer the question below of how you adjust the camber there are elliptical cylinder " camber / caster shims " that work with the ball joints for that. yes you can do this at home and do a better job than a new school shop that has no common sense, think it out, be safe
I need you to service my 3500 where’s your location ?
You're welcome. P.S. What is the significance of the 010231015?
Get some MOOG concentric ball joints (upper). Measure how much movement you need and then get the ball joint that will satisfy that.
You should get the underbody rustproofed (oil sprayed). The oil keeps all the oxygen from reacting with all the iron and creating what we know as rust. Metal loves oil:)
Up here in Canada we have Krown Rust Control and they do a good job at it using a vegetable-based oil.
Amen brother! The other cool thing about a center groove is you can run those Klingon looking snow chains! (MITA Next Generation Snow Chain)
Hello just came across your tutorial. Nice. It's nice to see someone who enjoys their profession. A thinker. I have mechanical background and enjoy working repairing my own vehicles and anyone else's vehicles if asked. Some things I can't do on my own I seek out references.
Thanks for doing this. Just got my Tacoma aligned and it's better, but not great (needs more caster). Now I think I'll take a shot at it myself.
Thanks for the tip. Thinking about it, I have a bend in mine. The bar isn't adjustable like yours, but I had hit a curb, bending it. I need to replace parts.
Great video man! Have been doing my own alignments for awhile now and love it...especially doing it quicker and not having to sit waiting bored to death and your right they never care if the sides match as long as its in the green even if thats a broad spectrum. I use the string method with jack stands since front meats stick out farther then rear meats? I like the explanation about caster it was perfect! I run 0* toe and it seems fine using a engineering rule with 64th.
Thanks for this video ! I just aligned my Hummer H2 using this method, and it works great. In fact, it now tracks better than with any alignment I've ever had at a professional shop. BTW, I found the alignment pins were missing from my left upper control arm cams. I don't know why the shops didn't fix that before attempting an alignment. They told me my H2 had a bad rack and pinion, so it would never hold an alignment.
I replaced my all my tie rods and the wood-sawing feeling went away. then I used your great method to align the wheels and for once my truck drives straight. also, on the adjuster, the two bolts are supposed to lock it in place correct? I bought new ones and I have them tightened down as much as possible and it still turns without much effort.
You adjust the toe independently. The collar between the pitman arm and the drag link is solely for adjusting the steering wheel center. Not all cars/trucks have this.
I set the steering wheel to the right tire first with both wheels off the ground. Then lower the right wheel and have the left wheel unweighted, but close to the ground and set the toe.
Don't think spheres- think plates. I'm eclipsing the tires independently AND at the same time. I'm only minding the surface that touches the curb when you park *(circularly)
Hi! Thanks for the great tip! I've tried another "ruff" way of toe adjustment with something called a "toe rod". Don't know if that is anyhow more accurate but with that method you can put it 1-1,5 degree negative and just not zero it. Newer driven a truck with zero of toe but a normal passenger car can't be fun!
Thanks for posting this instructional video. It was super helpful for my 5.9 96 4x4 alignment. Looks like you spent some good money on those bushwackers, rims and tires. I love your setup, I'm jealous.
This works if your front and rear track width are the same. If the rear is wider, not only will it look different when you check by eye, but you're likely to end up with toe in and if the rear is narrower, you may end up with toe out. A small toe out (less than half a degree) should be fine for a permanently driven front axle.
This is just my opinion. Track alignment was part of my tire fitting job, but it was a good 25+ years ago. ;¬)
@bran1har You're welcome. Thanks for the kind comment.
I own and operate a shop and have done this method for 35 YEARS sighting off the rear tires toeing the fronts in about an eighth of an inch (centering the steering wheel of couse...using 2 bungee straps anchored to the brake pedal helps keep the steering wheel from moving) It may not be exact but I guarantee it is real close! I always recommend my customers get a front end alignment but they never do because they trust what I do.
Thanks for the video, I just got an old chevy and new tires arrive tomorrow. I didn't wanna pay anybody to align it because I figured there was a good at home way to do this, especially for me since I drive a car every day, the truck is only for occasional use.
If the guy you went to didn't do a good job...it may be that he didn't do anything at all. I know from experience years back that many garages would claim to adjust alignment but never even touch the vehicle. Or the nuts were seized so they didn't bother. But still charged you.
Things are better these days since the internet and general scrutiny on garages and their tricks, so they are doing their best to be honest.
Just provide the air a means of escape at the highest point in the system while adding coolant in a funnel or device that can attach to the radiator. Just let the air be pushed out till coolant begins to spill.
Question? When you turn the driver side sleeve for the tie-rod, will it only affect toe on that tire or does it affect passenger side as well? I was curios if it would cause toe to move on passenger tire as well. Thanks in advance
I never realized how simple it is to align the wheels. I thought there was a machine and everything. Thanks for the vid!
I've been using a string down the side of the center of the tires to do alignments for years, works great.
I like the video and it helped a great deal. However, I have a 2005 Ram 1500 and there is no adjusting knuckle. The only adjustment was to take lose the tie rod end and turn it in/out. I have never seen anything like this. Have you? I used a string and after getting it close, I took it out on the interstate and it drives like new. I didn't have a breaker bar so I sprayed some "Fabulous Blaster PB Powerful Penetrating Catalyst" spray and it worked with very little effort. I would highly recommend using this on any bolts/nuts hard to break free. This was my first time replacing tie rod ends and your video was the best I could find. Thanks.
Awesome video.. I have been wanting to do this for a long time due to crooked steering and new ball joints I put on along with tie rod ends.. Thanks for the intel.
your videos are awesome, i learn something every time i watch...thx man, just got myself an 03 f150 4.6 about 7 weeks ago and i like doing diy stuff to it, keep up the vids.
Replace the upper or lower ball joint with an adjustable one, or one with a built in degree of camber to it.
Scotty is a cool guy lots of good info from him, Anyhow how would I set the casters, like what should I look for, I have spent huge money doing the front end on my 2008 dodge ram everything is new I have put a leveling kit in as well and this is where the caster adjustment I think is needed I too took the truck in to a shop with the lazer set up alignment computer he replaced the caster bolts and the bolts came with the arm where the casters go through just so he could set the casters, anyhow with the two inch leveling kit do the casters need be set different then the stock setting? the truck drives straight it just seems the steering is very touchy and super sensitive so once I need to correct the truck from wandering out of its lane I can do this in a split second and spill coffee all over the place, and ya its a 2008 dodge ram mega cab 4x4 diesel.
for toe in/out, i use a couple 2'x4's of 4' or so length lined up along the sidewalls of the front tires. assuming your tires have no bulges, you have a little bit longer gauge to see how far off one (or both) are from straight forward. most cars have a small degree of allowable toe as well... really some tolerance
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James I am thinking about using a 2x4 but only if I can find one that is nearly perfect and not warped.
Just found your channel (subscribed) and two huge thumbs up and many thanks. I will have to eventually have to adjust the valves, etc.. on my crf450r (no idea since I've always been a twostroke racer) and then saw you also help with common truck problems. Your vids are down to Earth, uses common tools and will save me ALOT of money I'm sure. Wish you had a paypal account set up so I could donate a few bucks for what you will no doubt save me. Thanks Brian.
Great job & informative. I just replaced the ball joints & saved $600 now I'm off to try this :) thanks.
Thanks Erwin- you should see it now- I have some videos on the winch bumper I built for it from scratch.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Doing things by eye works for me and once you showed the driver's side eclipse, bingo, simple and easy . No string or other tools needed.
Question: I took my Dakota in to have the rack and pinion replaced and have an alignment done. Prior to that, I tightened my torsion keys to level my truck. Is it common for a place to LOWER the front end BACK down, even a little, for the sake of adjusting the camber?