The Mega Drive II video-out has become a fan standard for RGB video of sorts. The reason why it's that and not the MD1 is that the MD1 is a bigger full size DIN vs a mini-DIN, and the MD1-plug only has mono audio.
Guessing crack in the ribbon cable. Once in its original folded position it makes contact, but when stretched out it does not. You would have to test with another ribbon cable... and who wants that...
Incredible work Glen! I just love the PC Engine! Just watching this - EDIT: You can tell I've not finished watching yet (if you saw my message before edit). Must be a bad connection somewhere - maybe inside the ribbon? I still think voltage drop, maybe on the 5v rail going to the cart slot.
Thanks Chris, I am really happy with this one. If the problem with the everdrive comes back I'll start by replacing the ribbon but best leaving well enough alone for now I think.
My best guess is there's a loose connector in the hu socket, and the everdrive is slightly thinner. When in place, the cable pushes the loose connector down.
I thought that myself so wedged a bit of cardboard in with the everdrive but it didn't fix it. The consensus seems to be its the ribbon so if the problem ever comes back I'll start with a new one of those.
Great job! In my experience, when there's a problem with a multicart or flash drive, the power is to blame. Clones in particular don't handle things as well as the genuine article.
Possibly but I'm more or less convinced its a problem in the ribbon which only shows when its stretched out. If the issue return I'll start by replacing the ribbon.
For the controller - you could get some similar plastics (abs, pla filament for 3d printers I am thinking) melt it into the holes, pack it down and then re-cut the threads?
I'd suspect the flat ribbon cable, they are notoriously fickle and pick up a lot of static. Especially this stiff type which feels like it has steel conductors inside, the conductors themselves can crack and the stiffness can also tear up the solder joints. It is interesting though that the corruption is always about the gfx assets but code seems to come in fine. Probably being loaded first and then harmonics take over the dodgy cable.
Not saying it is, but I had exactly the same issue, I replaced the cable and it sorted it, there are repros available now that use proper flat ribbon cables and they work really well. 👍
Great video, do love the search for why it happens rather than just settling on 'it works, it'll do' mentality. Just wondering, aren't those ribbon cables prone to breaking up?
The solder connections can come off, bit the actual cables themselves hold up well thanks to being made of plastic and not paper like early late 70s and early 80s machines.
For the screws: what about some kind of medium strength thread locker? Unsure if something like loctite 243 would work with plastics but it may be worth a try if you don't dare using slightly larger screws to "re tap" the threads.
Looks great not all done and back together! Absolutely love mine and seeing the fun you had, makes me wonder if I'd get the same issue with my AliExpress Everdrive clone... If you can get your hands on the PC Engine Interface Unit, it gives the video outputs while still allowing the connection of the CDRom , and all in a natty case type design :)
Couldn't help but read the comments before the end :) Based on what I understand, you still have some Everdrive issues. What I think is most likely: The HuCard connector needs more TLC. My theory is that the Everdrive is ever so slightly thicker than a HuCard and prying the connector by a tiny amount which is either creating an issue with the connectors themselves (the part that physically and directly interface with the pads on the Everdrive) or a cracked solder joint on one/some of the pins. You seem to have different results based on the positioning of the daughterboard, many people seem to think that you should blame the ribbon, I don't think so, else you'd have issues with the HuCard, too. Short of a faulty Everdrive, the only difference is the thickness. That or you're not giving enough power but I saw you use a MD1 PSU at some point, which should be enough.
Could be and perhaps the cable makes better connection when folded. I'm aware how fragile they are so I'm a little redundant to go poking about. I'll just leave it and if the issue returns start with a new cable.
Video output - yeah, you could reverse engineer of that expansion board and move the connector internal, it would be rather neat, and keep everything self contained. That'll be a good video :)
Zaxour has an open source hardware project called the Turbonanza that does this if someone is looking for a readymade project. Reverse engineering from scratch would definitely be fun though!
It seems to me the points on the Everdrive aren't properly aligned, and when you insert it with the cover off, the corruption starts to happen. The cover seems to help align it, so it makes proper contact.
Yep, I tried it in both positions but the problem persists. Granted the problem only shows when its apart so not really worth worrying about. If it some back though, the consensus seems to be its the ribbon so I'll start with a new one of those.
@@CRG Depends how marginal things are, perhaps there isn't enough voltage to run the more sophisticated modern cart and get a readable signal back. Just a guess.
@@alasdairlumsden670 I almost wonder if it's just the extra chonk of the Everdrive putting more weight on it... enough integrity to resist the weight of a HuCard but it clearly sags a little more with the Everdrive connected.
Are you possibly assuming that both cards use the same signal lines in that ribbon cable? Perhaps check the continuity on that ribbon? or Using an oscilloscope, check if both cards are using the same lines on the ribbon?
Possibly although surely it must be using the same cores on the cable, the everdrive just presents itself as the game to the pc engine. Not withstanding the possibility there may be a damage core in a cable. If the problem returns I'll start with a replacement cable.
Maybe the everdrive pcb is thinner than the original card or needs to be level to make good contact. It's heavier than a card and might not connect as well hanging off loosely. Could the contacts be tinned to make them thicker?🤔
I tried wedging a bit of cardboard in with it but the problem persists. The consensus seems to be its the ribbon so if the issue returns I'll start with a new one of those.
The Mega Drive II video-out has become a fan standard for RGB video of sorts. The reason why it's that and not the MD1 is that the MD1 is a bigger full size DIN vs a mini-DIN, and the MD1-plug only has mono audio.
Forgot about the MD1 and it being mono on the AV port 👍
Guessing crack in the ribbon cable. Once in its original folded position it makes contact, but when stretched out it does not. You would have to test with another ribbon cable... and who wants that...
Wow, this thing has had a massive transformation. Never would've thought that motherboard would survive. The case cleaned up nicely too.
Thanks, I'm really happy with how this one turned out.
Incredible work Glen! I just love the PC Engine! Just watching this - EDIT: You can tell I've not finished watching yet (if you saw my message before edit). Must be a bad connection somewhere - maybe inside the ribbon? I still think voltage drop, maybe on the 5v rail going to the cart slot.
Thanks Chris, I am really happy with this one. If the problem with the everdrive comes back I'll start by replacing the ribbon but best leaving well enough alone for now I think.
My best guess is there's a loose connector in the hu socket, and the everdrive is slightly thinner. When in place, the cable pushes the loose connector down.
I thought that myself so wedged a bit of cardboard in with the everdrive but it didn't fix it. The consensus seems to be its the ribbon so if the problem ever comes back I'll start with a new one of those.
@@CRG using a shim was my thought for a test, so I think that shoots down my idea.
Great job! In my experience, when there's a problem with a multicart or flash drive, the power is to blame. Clones in particular don't handle things as well as the genuine article.
Possibly but I'm more or less convinced its a problem in the ribbon which only shows when its stretched out. If the issue return I'll start by replacing the ribbon.
For the controller - you could get some similar plastics (abs, pla filament for 3d printers I am thinking) melt it into the holes, pack it down and then re-cut the threads?
I'd suspect the flat ribbon cable, they are notoriously fickle and pick up a lot of static. Especially this stiff type which feels like it has steel conductors inside, the conductors themselves can crack and the stiffness can also tear up the solder joints. It is interesting though that the corruption is always about the gfx assets but code seems to come in fine. Probably being loaded first and then harmonics take over the dodgy cable.
Could be a dodgy cable, if the problem returns I'll revisit it and start with a new cable.
Not saying it is, but I had exactly the same issue, I replaced the cable and it sorted it, there are repros available now that use proper flat ribbon cables and they work really well. 👍
@@CRGIt probably all sums up with the iffy edge connector you filed down
Great video, do love the search for why it happens rather than just settling on 'it works, it'll do' mentality. Just wondering, aren't those ribbon cables prone to breaking up?
The solder connections can come off, bit the actual cables themselves hold up well thanks to being made of plastic and not paper like early late 70s and early 80s machines.
nice vid thank you so much!! i felt aleep at the end soooo relaxing ;)
maybe its the contacts not touching correctly with the cartridge not laying flat
For the screws: what about some kind of medium strength thread locker? Unsure if something like loctite 243 would work with plastics but it may be worth a try if you don't dare using slightly larger screws to "re tap" the threads.
Another creative idea: nail polish may actually do the trick. Coat the screws the nail polish and let it set when they're in position.
Looks great not all done and back together! Absolutely love mine and seeing the fun you had, makes me wonder if I'd get the same issue with my AliExpress Everdrive clone...
If you can get your hands on the PC Engine Interface Unit, it gives the video outputs while still allowing the connection of the CDRom , and all in a natty case type design :)
I'll have a look for one of those interfaces but probably leave it until wanting to get the cd drive.
For the screws in the joypad, you could try using some that are one size larger. That's what I've done in the past.
That sounds like the simple option and I like that idea!
Couldn't help but read the comments before the end :) Based on what I understand, you still have some Everdrive issues.
What I think is most likely: The HuCard connector needs more TLC. My theory is that the Everdrive is ever so slightly thicker than a HuCard and prying the connector by a tiny amount which is either creating an issue with the connectors themselves (the part that physically and directly interface with the pads on the Everdrive) or a cracked solder joint on one/some of the pins.
You seem to have different results based on the positioning of the daughterboard, many people seem to think that you should blame the ribbon, I don't think so, else you'd have issues with the HuCard, too.
Short of a faulty Everdrive, the only difference is the thickness. That or you're not giving enough power but I saw you use a MD1 PSU at some point, which should be enough.
I really don't like that type of Ribbon Cable.
They are on the fragile side. And the more you move them, the more likely is you break something...
Could be and perhaps the cable makes better connection when folded. I'm aware how fragile they are so I'm a little redundant to go poking about. I'll just leave it and if the issue returns start with a new cable.
yeah, absolutely!
You know what they say: never touch a running system :) @@CRG
Video output - yeah, you could reverse engineer of that expansion board and move the connector internal, it would be rather neat, and keep everything self contained. That'll be a good video :)
Zaxour has an open source hardware project called the Turbonanza that does this if someone is looking for a readymade project. Reverse engineering from scratch would definitely be fun though!
It seems to me the points on the Everdrive aren't properly aligned, and when you insert it with the cover off, the corruption starts to happen. The cover seems to help align it, so it makes proper contact.
There is a switch IIRC on the Turbo Everdrive to switch between different models, that may fix your corruption.
Yep, I tried it in both positions but the problem persists. Granted the problem only shows when its apart so not really worth worrying about. If it some back though, the consensus seems to be its the ribbon so I'll start with a new one of those.
Might be that the Everdrive draws a bit more current than the regular card, and flakey connection was causing corruption there.
Yeah it'll be something like that and a partly damaged ribbon. I've got a new ribbon coming so it will be changed, I'll put up a quick update.
Suspect it may be the ribbon cable with worn out and snapped interior traces - when stretched out it breaks contact and when folded it makes contact
Might be the case but should it not also fail with the original cart?
@@CRG Depends how marginal things are, perhaps there isn't enough voltage to run the more sophisticated modern cart and get a readable signal back. Just a guess.
@@alasdairlumsden670 suppose it could be one (or more) cores of the wire that are frayed 🤔
@@alasdairlumsden670 I almost wonder if it's just the extra chonk of the Everdrive putting more weight on it... enough integrity to resist the weight of a HuCard but it clearly sags a little more with the Everdrive connected.
fins some slightly larger screws
yeah the simplest solution which is usually the best plus I need to find some more anyway!
Are you possibly assuming that both cards use the same signal lines in that ribbon cable? Perhaps check the continuity on that ribbon? or Using an oscilloscope, check if both cards are using the same lines on the ribbon?
Possibly although surely it must be using the same cores on the cable, the everdrive just presents itself as the game to the pc engine.
Not withstanding the possibility there may be a damage core in a cable. If the problem returns I'll start with a replacement cable.
To reform posts epoxy and white colouring powder
Thanks for the tip but as suggested by a few others the easiest thing might be slightly larger screws. I'm missing a few anyway so need to get more.
Maybe the everdrive pcb is thinner than the original card or needs to be level to make good contact. It's heavier than a card and might not connect as well hanging off loosely. Could the contacts be tinned to make them thicker?🤔
I tried wedging a bit of cardboard in with it but the problem persists. The consensus seems to be its the ribbon so if the issue returns I'll start with a new one of those.
PC Engine Pidgeon Poop Special Edition.
Very much so, it was horrible.
replace the ribbon cable with an old ide cable
Its working fine when assembled so I'll just leave well enough alone but if it starts to show sign of problems I'll replace the ribbon.
30:30 Acetone will melt plastic. You could try that ...
Thanks for the tip, I'll maybe try that.
have you tested brass threaded inserts which you can use a soldering iron to push into the posts
Might be an option but the existing posts in the joypad are very thin, I'm not sure I'd get inserts small enough.
Bigger screws lol
Yeah thats the simple solution and so the best one. I need to get more for it anyway.
Very nice! What power supply are you using? Is it linear or switching? It looks pretty hefty for a switching supply.
The HuCard has rounded corners, the Everdrive's are square, could they be preventing full insertion?
I don't think so, it does click onto place.
could it be down to the thickness of the cards ?
I thought that myself and put a bit of cardboard under the card, didn't make any difference.
the only other thing i recon t could be is a corroded cable connection need to replace that cable@@CRG