Basic Bodice Waist Reduction / Natalie Bray
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- Hi Lovelies, This is part 2 of the updated basic bodice block( Natalie Bray) . Watch the first part here
• How to a Draft a Basic...
In this part, I show you two ways of fixing the excess around the waistline of the block.
If you have questions don't forget to leave them in the comments, will be happy to respond!
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#Bodicepattern #Tutorial #patternmaking
Hey lovelies! From my explanation on the 13:00 min mark in the video, I meant to divide the difference into 4( instead of two as stated in the video) For example , I divided the 1” by 2, adding 1/2 on the both sides of the bust, I should have divided 1”by 4,by adding 1/4” instead of 1/2”( as this block only showed half of the front and back)
But if you’ve divided the difference by 2 ,this won’t alter your pattern drastically( it’s only excess seam allowance which can always be taken in more during fittings)
A subscriber was kind enough to point this out. This was an oversight on my part, and I apologize for any confusion.
I hope this explanation clears this up, if not, do let me know if you all will prefer me to take the video down or upload an updated one. Your suggestions are very welcome.
You are amazing! Again thanks for breaking it down and showing various alterations techniques! You are a wonderful tutor. ❤❤❤❤
Thank you so much ♥️♥️
God bless you Mercy.! Love you for your sincerity. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You are so welcome
Thanks for this kind heart
I've tried to understand those for some time before now but couldn't just figure it out. I'm most grateful ❤️❤️
Hello Mercy. I had to rewatch these reductions and i noticed that after measuring the bust, waist and hip, whatever we need to add to complete the 4inch as seam allowance should be divided into 4 not 2. E.g the 1inch left on the bust should be divided into 4 not 2 to give you an accurate 4inch seam allowance
If divided into 2, it makes the seam allowance more than 4
You are good, really love your works very detailed
Thank you very much!
Thank you so much. You are truly amazing. This is really perfect for me. God bless you. ❤
You are so welcome
Love your videos, please can you draft a corset on this particular pattern too.
Thanks❤
Thank you! I already did .
ua-cam.com/video/bYCIOFKl_3o/v-deo.htmlsi=9k9Rj49aeVu6q1l5
This love is massive 💖😍
God bless you for this
Bless you too ♥️
Amazing tutoring but I have a lot questions to ask concerning the allowance you explain
Thank you sis❤❤❤. Please I want ask about how you tighten the underbust. Thank you
You can check out my video on how to draft a corset. I explain how I shape the under bust there
If my back neckline is below the bust point, how much should I reduce the circumference by at the back? I think I saw it on one of your videos but I can't find the video anymore. Please help 😢
Thank you so much mama. But when doing bust shaping for bustiers and corsets, Is it possible to use the excess on the block as allowance?
Yes you can!
Won't The total armhole measurement be affected if the excess is used as seam allowances especially if a sleeve will be used?
The 12-13cm extra around the armhole is for ease. I also stressed doing a fitting for the block after drafting. Based on your fitting preference, check armhole tightness.. if it feels tight, reduce seam allowance. Or better still sew the block leaving all the ease and adjust accordingly. Remember, the a drafted block always needs to be fitted( test fit) before using for an actual style or design
The shaping is quite confusing to me.From the drafting the 2” extra was added to the front bustline,how come while remeasuring u had 3.5”? I got 2” extra on mine .
In the drafting we have 2” extra at the front bustline ,how do we distribute the seam allowance evenly between them when the front bustline already have more allowance?
You also said the seam allowance is 4”
Is it 1” per side side seam?/2” per side seam?
Omooh my madam ❤
😊♥️
Hello ma'am please I will like to know how to adjust a bodice block to a size I want, without having to start drafting from the beginning.
Thanks for this ,it’s well detailed.i attempted the drafting using cm,I was left with just 3.5cm excess on the waist,I got stucked as to how to distribute it evenly.Or could there be error somewhere?
I don’t think it was an error. The excess is different for everyone . Remember you’re drafting according to your body figure. To distribute your excess for waist shaping, pick what parts you want to take it out from and distribute evenly or take more on the center back line and less on the side seams.
Thanks for your swift response ma’am.For clarity sake I haven’t taken my front and back dart yet with the 3.5cm excess .How can I get dart from the 3.5cm and still distribute to the C.B and side seams .Or isn’t dart necessary? I hope u get my question?
@akinsurojuadesola9636 what is the bust, waist and hip measurement?
Good day ma’am,kindly reply my last question.
You didn’t respond to my last question . I asked what was the measurements used? The bust, waist, hips. This will let me answer you better
Thanks for the whole session @mercyadaminseam but my question is this, won't the allowance distort the armhole measurements? Won't it be tight because it will be reduced
I talked about waist shaping mostly in this video. Or you can provide the time stamp( or where you have a question),so I can better explain. But in the first part, I talked about how to deal with the armhole, either excess or less and also mentioned garments should be fitted( tested) to determine how you’d want it to fit.The Natalie Block is drafted with excess allowance. You can choose to leave the excess or not based to your personal style preferences.
Pls could you resend me this handout you used to learn. I know you sent me before but couldn't find it in my document to follow up this explanation
I noticed that as i tried to do my waist shaping, i didn't have any excess for dart and i also didn't have my complete waist measurement talk more of ease
Something may have caused this. If you can . Send a DM of pics or videos of your draft to my IG. I may be able to help when I see what you’ve done.
Thank you. How do you draft your sleeve block please?
The sleeve block Will be available in my online course which will soon be available.
Ma,thanks for your teaching ,but l till have a question to ask you please, after adding the seams allowance in the pattern and it been cut out,when placed on
fabric, will l till ?
add sewing allowance?
You’re welcome, if you are referring to the side seam allowance, you won’t need another.Except you want your side seam allowance to be more than 1”
So when sewing the side ,what inches will l take to sew my side? Please don't be angry am a but confused here .
At all! If the seam allowance you added was one inch, you’ll sew one inch
That means with what you taught us now, l already have a seam allowance of one inch at the side, right? So, lf l want more l can add when cutting on Frabic, right?
@@rosemarylsibor4855 yes that’s correct
Nice tutorial mama...❤ my issue is thay my underbust gets to waistline. What do i do
If this happens, move the position of the waistline by marking about 1-1 1/2” down on the center front line , and reconnect to the side seam( on the same level it was), do this only on the front bodice . So previous waistline will now be your underbust length. This is what I do when such happens. I hope it helps
@@mercyadamsinseams so the side back and side front stays the same?
Yes.. also, make sure to do a mock up and check how that fits.
@mercyadamsinseams pls sis, for clarification, we first slanted the cf by 2-2.5cm and side front by 1cm. So I should reslant again(cf) by 1 or 1.5"? By doing so, my dart will now be on the second slanted line?
Yes. You can either reposition the dart on the new waistline or close the existing dart( temporarily) and reconnect to the side seam
Please can you make a video to show how I can cut out the pattern to place on a piece of cloth?
I already have a tutorial on this “Natalie Bray fit test”
Yeah I saw it but it was too fast.
I am having trouble with the curve of my bustier neckline style line. It always tends to be too curvy thereby forming excess(pouches ) on my Overbust area. How do I fix this as well as the gaping in my back dress lowered (sometimes deep) neckline of a regular dress, please. Thank you.
This sometimes happens when the under-bust is over shaped .
Try to reduce the under bust shaping along the bust curve and see how that works out
Thank you love.
Will let you know the outcome.
How do I join your Instagram tutorials please?
Hello ma’am . Sorry am kinda lost at the allowance part. Pls the excess used as allowance , is it in inches or cm .
This is in inches.
Thank u so much ma’am fr responding ❤
Sorry am asking to many questions. So if it’s in inches , my confusion is we had 3 cm excess on the bust right, and we needed a total of 4cm fr seam allowance , if half an inch is added that would b 4.5 cm . If so is that when sewing am only sewing 4cm and leaving 0.5cm fr ease ?
I mean if so, is it that when sewing , am only sewing 4cm n leaving 0.5 cm fr ease ?
I think you are still mixing Cm and inches . This block is drafted in inches. If you have 3 inches as the excess on the full bust, and we need 4 inches in order to use the excess as the seam allowance , that means we are missing 1 inch. To add 1 into the 3” excess that was on the bust , simple add 1/2” on the side of the bust( 1” divided by 4 equals 1/2”) to make the excess 4”.
Thank u so much ma’am I understand It nw . I actually thought it was cm u drafted the pattern
Ma the problem im trying to solve for my pattern is mine has a 4¹/⁴ inch for the bust and 6 inch for the waist and 3.³/⁴ for the hip difference do i still need to add allowance for the bust and waist or leave as it is
You need a total of 4” for the seam allowance . The bust already has that.
For the waist you have 6”( which leaves 2” excess) now this is where the waist reduction comes in, just as explained in this tutorial.
For the hip you’re just missing about half inch less, so just add that difference when cutting the pattern out.
@@mercyadamsinseams thank you ma
Ma ,please, l need a clarification on something today. l tried to use my excess as my allowance, but it didn't work,my actual burst was97 and was measured on pattern was60.8cm,acutal waist was 76.5xm while my pattern was 49 ,my actual hip was 97cm while my pattern52.3cmpls can you just do one example for me with this my figures please l beg you in the name God .
Hi. Something sounds really off. I don’t think you used or divided your measurements well. Please send me a DM on IG. I can help if I see pics and videos of what you’re working on . My instagram is linked in my UA-cam profile
I have sent the video to lG please help me check it ma
@rosemarylsibor4855 hi. I’ve looked, haven’t seen it. You can send an email too.
I have send it to you through email ma
That 4 inches means 1 inch on both sides right?
Right!
Hello mercy, I asked about your full course, have still not gotten a response from you.
Hey lovely. It’s in the works.. I promise! Getting very close to the release dates.Thank you for checking back ❤️❤️
Thank you so much for this ma🙏🙏🙏♥♥ pls can i have the documents you used in drafting .Already sent my email to you on IG. Thanks
You’re welcome. Not sure I’ve received your email via DM yet