I BUILT MY OWN HUGE LEGO INSPIRED BLOCKS FOR A LIFE SIZED GO KART!!
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- Опубліковано 28 лис 2022
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Hi everyone! The second part of the Lego Inspired Go Kart build is here! This time I focused on the Miranda Blocks design and tried to make more sensible progress by testing the Go Kart Design with the newly created Miranda Blocks Mini.
As always please let me know your thoughts down below.
Thanks!!!
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Every time I feel like my 3D Printing habit is getting a bit crazy, I watch one of your videos and suddenly I don't feel out of control any more! 🤣
I was just thinking the same thing. Ordering 10kg PLA and thinking is this to much....
Miranda "what for the brim and support?"
;)
its okay we all dont have money being thrown at use like this people!
@@LordAnubis0909 no, 10kg is all for the SPACERS
@@frankblackcrow8772 PLA is made from corn starch, whats the problem?
Ball park how much time and cost to print the parts in this kart?
I’d like to see a LEGO inspired translucent blocks to serve as headlights and taillights.
Hey Ivan, I really enjoy your videos!
You should make a collab with PolyMaker showing how to recycle your failed prints and prototype parts into new filament.
I have so many plastic basins and trays from frozen meals, I'd like to recycle them like this. Microwaveable may mean they need a higher heat on the print head though, and I wouldn't want to burn up anything if I did that
Ivan is going to single-handedly deplete the world of red pigment.
3:55 In PT.3, he remembers why the offset holes were added and needs to redesign and reprint everything. 😋
The patience and time that goes into this with prototyping and waiting for things to print is unbelievable. He makes it look so quick and efficient, but dude gets an award for the most patience on the Internet in my book...
3:50 possibly weight distribution / stability. More triangles than squares. But yes - your new design looks like it can open more doors to combine parts and to stabilize them with each other efficiently.
particularly when you have them joined at their ends. in that case, i can see it being a weakness that wouldn't have been quite as weak with the holes offset.
As someone who's printed some custom parts for Lego Technic, I still have hard times watching all the heresy ideas you've got on improving the Technic liftarms xD
I think the offset design would be a little stronger, but like just about everything there’s a trade off
That steering wheel needs a TPU tire :)
Agreed
How about a Filament Recycling machine to reuse the Tons of Plastic from your old projects/ the unused parts
My wife calls you "the spanish madman". It could not be a more fitting description. This is absolutely crazy. I love it!
he is king of 3d printing. big respect
The offset will make the beams much stronger in bending. That the only thing that I can think of. Awesome work. Love the build so far
Ivan, It's like christmas morning finding your video this morning!
I'm Thanksful for you.
hUgz, Lee
Can you recycle your old projects/mistakes?
Would indeed be epic if you made the mini into a RC version.
Felicidades Iván, llevas la impresión 3D a otro nivel
You're insane in the best possible way Ivan. You really inspire us all to think beyond busts and benchies for our 3D printing projects
PolyMaker be thinking "we are never going to financially recover from this"
Please tell me you're going to make that mini an RC, that would be so sick!!! Amazing builds, big and small.
It's coming along amazingly!
I was impressed with your Patreon list I am on many of theirs. Glad you have so much support
Empiezo a estar realmente entusiasmado con los Miranda Blocks jaja, ojalá en el futuro liberes los diseños.
thats very cool. its amazing
With the scaled down blocks, I think you need a scaled down version of yourself to sit in it too.
Great ! I like very much the Miranda-Blocks and the Lego blocks !! #Lego, have you ever think about a collaboration video? Would be funny, very funny !! Some lego technic in a insane scale...
Absolutely glorious, I love it
Brilliant modifications, Ivan! REALLY well done! 😃
Looking forward to the next part!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I can say that I love the content and can imagine we all would love to be a fly on the wall during your creative process.
The video about the original LEGO kart brought me to this channel, and i am so exited about this build. Full circle baby!
Wow! Love your videos. You always amaze me. Keep up the great work.👍😎
Nice build. Looking forward to the race.
The Miranda Mini Blocks already have me planning things. Hmmm . . . . You have a really cool line of blocks there now. Thank you for sharing.
Cool
AWESOME!
Your scaled down version would be my scaled up one. Every time I watch your videos I feel soooo small😁
You and Matt are two very entertaining youtubers, always look forward to your videos, many thanks 🙂
Great video. You probably already know but the portion of the spindles that connect to the rack should point at the centerline of the rear axle for proper ackermann angle.
Came here to say that adding proper Ackerman angle will be a distinct advantage in a race with corners…
This is honestly a great system for large scale, easily assembled projects.
Taking notes from Lego, and making these modular parts, you could make a bunch of stuff.
I would love to see a similar go-kart concept, but with some really ridiculous suspension. Let you take those turns as hard as possible.
This looks like it will be fun.
Since you made an scaled down version, why not make it into an RC version? How cool would it be if you drove the RC version out, then ride your full size version out?
And run over the RC version with the full version and get the worlds 1st flat 3d printed tyre cuz Lego is pretty tough and it will be hilarious if the RC version is undamaged
Teh rack you use for the steering wheel should be angled to match the angle of the pinion gear and avoid uneven wear.
I get you but dont think that will ever be a problem
luckily it is an easy fix, easily replaced
of course he knows that, but he's replicating a block system.
When steering through the full movement, the rack moves back and forth as well as side-to-side. One could angle the teeth on the pinion gear (and lengthen them) to increase the engagement.
LOL, I caught the "no need for new bearings" right when you showed that decided to remove the offset between holes.
Also, maybe you used the offset for reinforcement? Because with 4 holes aligned you kinda "weakened" those spots, you might end up considering changing infill settings and perimeters to compensate for that.
Keep going, this project is awesome!
How about some universal joint? I will allow some metal pins.
Well, look on the upside. If you commit to using Miranda blocks to prototype a lot of things, then you can just dedicate print time to pumping out blocks. :D
And please now go and make somethiiiiiiing! 😄 The best part of the video
I recently picked up 3D printing, rebuilt an old printer somebody gave me and bought a new one and dove into Blender. I really related to this video and am sort of glad I'm not printing gigantic parts. I'm designing a robot tank working out from a set of tracks and sprockets I found online. It's a lot of printing parts, learning to make better models and improving assembly. I had a piece of what I hope will be the chassis of my tank out of PolyLite Pro. I'm glad I went with the bright orange.
With that bright red color, the next obvious thing is to make a life sized motorized Kaneda's bike from "Akira"
wonderful madman 👍
Very cool 😎
😍😂😆 Let's hope your insane design and engineering is contageious. Thanks!
do not forget the seat! great video again!
Eres un monstruo. Yo creo que no soy capaz de hacerlo ni con instrucciones como para inventarlo...
Deseando del siguiente vídeo jejeje.
Saludos
Finally somebody did it!
Could you make the blueprints for the Miranda blox available publicly? So others can print small ones?
It's coool
"Miranda blocks" is such a good name for this system :)
I suggest that you add some tread to the tires, for the agility test.
Awesome printer. 👌
My theory, re: 'I don't remember the reason for offsetting the holes' you added the offsets because it makes the parts stronger. Also before the screws received a larger diameter the offsets allowed interconnecting crossed sections closer to eachother!
Can you make a nut that goes all of the way through your blocks? You could make a few different pitches. You could have a single pitch nut, a two pitch nut and more. You can then snap it in and drive a screw into the nut from both sides, like your bolt nut, just on the same axis.
you should try printing a car tire out of TPU, and see how well it works on a real car...
What is your print settings? For example, what are your wall thicknesses, top and bottom layers, layer height, etc
goes to build lego cart... ends up inventing new toy building block system...
I am very jealous of your print bed size. It might be true that most things I print are small, but the possibilities with a large format printer are way more!
Then do as he says and "Make Somethiiinnnggg!" I'm planning a large format "Printrbot" due to lack of space for a coreXY setup. The printer arm will be on a rigid suspension and rotates out of the way to let the bed fold up into it. Another option I was considering would be a polar kinetics 3D printer to reduce and minimize setup even further, but the Kinematics will be a pain to figure out (for now)
Will you be releasing miranda block mini STLs?
I was watching with auto generated subtitles and had a laugh about what it came up with for the music at 00:04:30 :D
Offsetting the holes on the side should make the part stronger IMO. Having the holes at the same position will render a weaker connection.
I love the scale, but comparing with my own printer, I'm impressed that these big parts don't take a week to print. Looking forward to what comes next with this project! Thanks for sharing!
they do take weeks to print ;) But video magic lets you timelapse and print them 'quickly' for the video. He is also printing with much larger 1mm nozzle and whatnot.
You probably offset the holes because the studs in LEGO technic blocks are offset from the holes in the same way. You did a bit of a hybrid between LEGO technic blocks and beams.
Just thinking of the person in the warehouse when the filament is being ordered going "Welp, here we go again" for the 5th time in one mouth. So much red is used, lol.
Nice potential for a RC car.
Where do you source your filament? I guess you need so much filament you cant pay the regular prices for it.
Offset holes stronger?
Ivan, just wondering... why don't you use a tapered sprocket for the steering? In that way you have more surface contact with the rack... Or am I missing something crucial? (most likely).
Have you figured out how to create the difference in turning between the inner and outer wheel while steering?
What do you do with all the plastic you don't need anymore? Can you melt it down into new filament?
I love your english 😁😉
Ivan Miranda is just that guy.
Will the newer designed large format printer be sold as a set of plans?
The offset makes the minimum distance between the negative space greater, which translates to greater structural integrity. You probably had this in mind when you were designing the parts.
Also, with the screws, you could have made them more of a dumbbell shape, so that they were still the right widths to fit the holes on the edges in contact with the structural beams, but skinny on the inside to provide enough clearance for inserting another screw into an adjacent hole on another face of the part.
Wouldn't it be possible to have only the top and the bottom oft the screws matching the hole diameter and the intermediate part could be smaller? This way the screws would align the parts without obstructing the other screwholes !?
Ivan, is the entire car assembly in F360? I ask because I feel like you would have addressed the connections if the entire assembly was modeled together.
Taper the middle of the shoulder bolts you made so that it doesn’t interfere, it should be just as strong as the full threaded bolts
You don’t know where the middle is. Bolts may be clamping a quarter height block and a full height block and then the center is displaced a fourth of the pitch.
@@ivanmirandawastaken If the original, smaller diameter bolt was strong enough, and the new design is just to introduce stabilization as it passes through the blocks, maybe design the new ones more like a "beads on a string" style. They will have to reduce in diameter at a given position based on how many blocks you go through. You know how long the bolt must be to make the connection. That should mean you can plot a hemispherical concavity in the bolt where a cross-bolt would need to pass. This would include bolts with a large diameter, unless you try passing two bolts cross-wise at the same time, which I find unlikely. I know this isn't the best description, but I can't upload a napkin image.
You would know where the ends were though wouldnt you? Assuming you are using the correct length bolt for what you are trying to connect. As long as it registers at both ends you could skinny up the whole middle?
First half of this video is like a commentary on all my Fusion 360 timelines; glad I'm not the only one that can't remember why they made a design decision a week or two ago.
You need to print a giant screwdriver for your giant screws. :D
I would make the steering gear bevelled so it matches the steering shaft angle.
I would also make the gear smaller, ie, reduce the steering ratio, because it looks too big and in the way .
I clocked two Larry David references, from Curb and Sein. There is no way Ivan isn't a fan! 😁
What!?!?! No soup for you!
@@ivanmirandawastaken You. You think you can get soup? Please. You're wasting everyone's time.
If somebody else hasn't already done it I think maybe learning to make shape generators on thingiverse with these would be a cool idea.
If you are talking about thingiverse's "customizer" what you want to learn is OpenSCAD. All the site does is to be able to run the scad file on the server.
I use SolidWorks for almost all my designs, but when I want to do something really parametric, OpenSCAD is the tool
What do you do with your failed/prototype parts.
So much “bla-lalaallalalalalala” I love the Spanish tongue 😂
the offset beams may be a bit stronger than the non-offset beams because the smallest crossectional area of the offset beams is larger. They may also resist torsion stresses better? Not as sure about that one though.
Why did you not use a conic gear instead of the top circular gear to lessen slippage, shear/strain on tip of gear teeth and better contact?
Will you make the smaller lego cart RC? 😃
Good
Man I was about this till Xometry was brought up. Theyre the whole reason I got y own machine.
Save your cash folks, unless it's a technology that isnt commercially available yet.
Are the tires going to be solid or hollow? (I’m guessing solid to hold the weight, just wondering how much TPU will be needed for each tire 😮).
He could go hollow cutouts. Look at some of the airless off-road tires for industrial equipment. They look a lot like a cutaway of a print, with the walls and infills. Printed in a radial format, with the sidewalls planar to the printbed, they should be a fairly easy and stable design.
se nos fue el loco de la pradera, pero quedo otro.
Do you still need to change the bearing size after getting rid of the offset? Edit: I see this was addressed, nm
you should make a lego style instruction book to go with your car
Hi Ivan
Watching at the end on what I think was the full sized version I noticed you have a right handed thread on the left front spindle .
Are you going to redesign the full size front left spindle and nut to be a left handed thread too ?
Or have you changed your mind with testing the scale model and found it unnecessary ?
Awesome megabuild as per though .
Fattrucker
If you provide a way to lock the nut so that it can't loosen, then you don't need the left-handed thread.
@Mueller3D Agreed . There are many ways to achieve this . But on the scale model Ivan chose to use a left hand threaded spindle . Hence my question is he going the same route on the full scale version ?
Fattrucker
You could have just printed a bone shaped screw that would be wide enough dia at the edges to register but narrow in the middle to avoid the interference in the offset blocks