See! This is why I love Lyle’s videos. Not only do we get to see great work done on great amps we also get to enrich our language skills. The word of day kids.... Recalcitrant.
15:00 Yeah, I reckon there are quite a few techs who learn a thing or two from your videos (and from Brad's). There is indeed more than one way to do things right, but the end goal is the same. Clean, tidy, solid, and dependable. *Hemostats* Not often needed but very convenient when they are. Unfortunately my tool kit in the studio was accessible by musicians and I found myself needing to clean some strange brown residue from the tips of my hemostat whenever I needed it. But I digress...
Been a long time since I had to clean that type of residue off my hemostats! Several of my numerous pairs of 'stats are actually modified; I cut the latching mechanism off them and put doubled up rubber bands on the front half of the tool so that the jaws will stay shut under moderate pressure and grasp small objects without the excessive pressure of the latching mechanism. Some of my small needle nose pliers are also fitted with rubber bands for the same reason; if the needle nose pliers have springs to make the jaws stay open, I typically remove the springs and substitute the rubber band to make them stay closed. Wire cutters, conversely, are more convenient to use if they are designed so that the cutting jaws spring open when you relax your handgrip. (By the way, if I use the voice to text feature on this phone, it translates hemostats as "human tats" or "hemi stats" or "he missed that"! 🤣).
Hozan makes usefull double-ended deep sockets for loosening/ tightening shaft nuts; three tools covers the range of six sizes, from 9 mm to 14 mm. They're much easier to hang on to without your hand slipping then a regular, slick chrome-plated deep socket is, and they have a sort of pivoting handle that can be swung to the side to form a handle for additional leverage if you need it. Your ordinary deep socket might be a little easier to hang onto if you put shrink wrap on it, or a wrap of electrical or friction tape. A knurled finish, instead of the slippery chrome found on almost all sockets, would be ideal.
Sorry, I'm having serious problems keeping up with email. Between the spam bots, the "can you tell me how to fix my amp" emails, and many more than I've ever gotten before I just can't keep up. I need a secretary. Or more hours in the day. I didn't mean to ignore you. I'm just drowning in work and barely have time to even check emails right now. I have to fix this. I just can't yet.
@@PsionicAudio Its totally ok, I had a window when I could have shipped it from the seller, who was close to you and took a shot. I know you're busy and it was the holidays. I found a good tech here who it working on it, so its all good. Although judging from all the amazing vintage amps in his shop, I may not get it back until 2024!
Absolutely brilliant video with great detail on how to recap the Marshall. Thanks for taking your time to show how with a little extra effort care and attention to detail this is how it should be done. A tounge in cheek question Lyle, does stainless steel conduct better than brass?
Concerning the end of this video, noise when master vol is turned up and channel vol turned down, how do you know or suspect it is a tube making noise versus grounding issues? Does the noise sound the same?
The 25 ft roll is about 22% cheaper than 10ft roll. Very nice wick 2.5 mm is a good working size . Good video . I have been pleased with the der ee de-5000 esr meter about 100 usd on ebay.
Unfortunately, if you don't use solder-wick frequently, some brands may degrade if sitting around for a year or years. If the copper looks reddish-brown like a penny, it might not work well unless you add some extra flux to it before desoldering. In other words, hobbyists and part-time techs should buy desoldering braid in smaller rolls rather than larger.
Hi Lyle, I have a 1987 JCM 800 2205 and I'm about to replace the filter and bias caps with F&T and Sprague Atoms. A Lee Jackson video I watched recently said you have to "form" the capacitors. I hadn't heard of that before so did some sleuthing and someone else said you only have to "form" NOS caps and that new caps don't need it. What's the skinny on cap forming?
Why not solder those negative leads from the filter caps directly to the chassis instead of relying on the bolts that secure the clamps? Or is that a bridge too far for some owners of vintage amps? That *is* how Fender used to do it, and we've watched you remove Fender transformer grounds from the transformer mounting bolts and solder them right to the chassis. I would expect the cap-clamp bolts to loosen over time from speaker vibration and transport shock, not to mention that the clamp connects to the chassis in *two* places, which constitutes a theoretical ground loop, especially if the ground connection oxidizes underneath either mounting bolt. BTW, That was a very interesting bit of information about it's not needing to use balancing resistors on the two caps of the 1st filter node because you're grounding the center tap of the high voltage secondary, even though the rectifier is a SS bridge. Channeling Johnny Carson: *"I did not know that"!*. I always assumed that one just ignored the center tap if you were using a full wave bridge, otherwise you'd get half-voltage or something like that.
I'm not subjecting cap leads to that kind of heat. And the issue in the fenders isn't directly soldered vs solder lugs - it's using transformer bolts to hold those lugs.
@@PsionicAudio i was referring to the first cap you did, with 2" of black wire from the cap to the ground lug. I wasn't thinking of bending the capacitor terminals over and soldering to the chassis. I never bend those terminals; I don't trust the aluminum rivets that hold the terminals, having occasionally seen them become electrically intermittent or physically loose, on old caps anyway.
@@PsionicAudio Solder the chassis end first so the amount of heat involved in soldering it to the chassis doesn’t affect the cap? Or is it more that you don’t want to make the wire itself brittle?
See! This is why I love Lyle’s videos. Not only do we get to see great work done on great amps we also get to enrich our language skills. The word of day kids.... Recalcitrant.
That component lead extraction method is a brilliant tip, thanks!
15:00 Yeah, I reckon there are quite a few techs who learn a thing or two from your videos (and from Brad's). There is indeed more than one way to do things right, but the end goal is the same. Clean, tidy, solid, and dependable.
*Hemostats* Not often needed but very convenient when they are. Unfortunately my tool kit in the studio was accessible by musicians and I found myself needing to clean some strange brown residue from the tips of my hemostat whenever I needed it. But I digress...
Yeah, I figure I'm one of the only musicians to use stats for their intended purpose...
Been a long time since I had to clean that type of residue off my hemostats! Several of my numerous pairs of 'stats are actually modified; I cut the latching mechanism off them and put doubled up rubber bands on the front half of the tool so that the jaws will stay shut under moderate pressure and grasp small objects without the excessive pressure of the latching mechanism. Some of my small needle nose pliers are also fitted with rubber bands for the same reason; if the needle nose pliers have springs to make the jaws stay open, I typically remove the springs and substitute the rubber band to make them stay closed. Wire cutters, conversely, are more convenient to use if they are designed so that the cutting jaws spring open when you relax your handgrip. (By the way, if I use the voice to text feature on this phone, it translates hemostats as "human tats" or "hemi stats" or "he missed that"! 🤣).
@@PsionicAudio , my dad called them "surgical roachclips". He took a dim view of such activities on my part.
U😅 36:08
It seem to me your are being honest 39:03
Thank you for all the information and great video.
Hope the power comes back sooner than later, hang in there , stay warm
Hozan makes usefull double-ended deep sockets for loosening/ tightening shaft nuts; three tools covers the range of six sizes, from 9 mm to 14 mm. They're much easier to hang on to without your hand slipping then a regular, slick chrome-plated deep socket is, and they have a sort of pivoting handle that can be swung to the side to form a handle for additional leverage if you need it. Your ordinary deep socket might be a little easier to hang onto if you put shrink wrap on it, or a wrap of electrical or friction tape. A knurled finish, instead of the slippery chrome found on almost all sockets, would be ideal.
Curious...at what temp do you typically run your soldering iron? I am always concerned about heating components too much or ruining the pads.
Really nice. Love these amps, so getting to watch you work on one, is a treat. I wish you'd been able to work on mine, but I never heard back.
Sorry, I'm having serious problems keeping up with email. Between the spam bots, the "can you tell me how to fix my amp" emails, and many more than I've ever gotten before I just can't keep up. I need a secretary. Or more hours in the day.
I didn't mean to ignore you. I'm just drowning in work and barely have time to even check emails right now.
I have to fix this. I just can't yet.
@@PsionicAudio Its totally ok, I had a window when I could have shipped it from the seller, who was close to you and took a shot. I know you're busy and it was the holidays. I found a good tech here who it working on it, so its all good. Although judging from all the amazing vintage amps in his shop, I may not get it back until 2024!
Absolutely brilliant video with great detail on how to recap the Marshall. Thanks for taking your time to show how with a little extra effort care and attention to detail this is how it should be done. A tounge in cheek question Lyle, does stainless steel conduct better than brass?
Longer, at least. ;)
@@PsionicAudio cheers for that.
Concerning the end of this video, noise when master vol is turned up and channel vol turned down, how do you know or suspect it is a tube making noise versus grounding issues? Does the noise sound the same?
The 25 ft roll is about 22% cheaper than 10ft roll. Very nice wick 2.5 mm is a good working size . Good video . I have been pleased with the der ee de-5000 esr meter about 100 usd on ebay.
Unfortunately, if you don't use solder-wick frequently, some brands may degrade if sitting around for a year or years. If the copper looks reddish-brown like a penny, it might not work well unless you add some extra flux to it before desoldering. In other words, hobbyists and part-time techs should buy desoldering braid in smaller rolls rather than larger.
Nice work as always
Thanks Scott! Something dear to your heart will be coming soon.
As meticulous as you are, my OCD alert went off when you put the nut on the ground lug with the witness marks from the lockwasher facing UP! LOL!
Yeah, saw it later in the video. Bugged me too.
Do “caps” have a typical lifespan, if yes, what/how long/how old ? Or do they simply last until there’s an issue ?
Hi Lyle, I have a 1987 JCM 800 2205 and I'm about to replace the filter and bias caps with F&T and Sprague Atoms. A Lee Jackson video I watched recently said you have to "form" the capacitors. I hadn't heard of that before so did some sleuthing and someone else said you only have to "form" NOS caps and that new caps don't need it. What's the skinny on cap forming?
Not needed on new caps and you should only ever use new caps.
@@PsionicAudio Thanks, my caps are new so I can just install and enjoy! Replacing old caps with old caps seems counter-intuitive.
Lyle, stop making so many videos.
I can't make any when I'm watching all of yours!
How can you tell if I have bought a 2204 matshall
How can I talk to you??
Why not solder those negative leads from the filter caps directly to the chassis instead of relying on the bolts that secure the clamps? Or is that a bridge too far for some owners of vintage amps? That *is* how Fender used to do it, and we've watched you remove Fender transformer grounds from the transformer mounting bolts and solder them right to the chassis. I would expect the cap-clamp bolts to loosen over time from speaker vibration and transport shock, not to mention that the clamp connects to the chassis in *two* places, which constitutes a theoretical ground loop, especially if the ground connection oxidizes underneath either mounting bolt.
BTW, That was a very interesting bit of information about it's not needing to use balancing resistors on the two caps of the 1st filter node because you're grounding the center tap of the high voltage secondary, even though the rectifier is a SS bridge. Channeling Johnny Carson: *"I did not know that"!*. I always assumed that one just ignored the center tap if you were using a full wave bridge, otherwise you'd get half-voltage or something like that.
I'm not subjecting cap leads to that kind of heat. And the issue in the fenders isn't directly soldered vs solder lugs - it's using transformer bolts to hold those lugs.
@@PsionicAudio i was referring to the first cap you did, with 2" of black wire from the cap to the ground lug. I wasn't thinking of bending the capacitor terminals over and soldering to the chassis. I never bend those terminals; I don't trust the aluminum rivets that hold the terminals, having occasionally seen them become electrically intermittent or physically loose, on old caps anyway.
@@PsionicAudio Solder the chassis end first so the amount of heat involved in soldering it to the chassis doesn’t affect the cap?
Or is it more that you don’t want to make the wire itself brittle?
Balderdash ! Harrumph!
Temp solder?