For a couple decades I did my desoldering and removal much the way you do it. There's nothing wrong with that approach and it works. Recently I splurged and bought a nice powered desoldering station. After a few months of using it, I will never go back to the old method unless I'm in the field. It's so much safer for the board and cuts my work time easily in half. Also, if I have to remove a whole slew of transistors to test them, it's orders of magnitude easier with the station. You should consider it. Easily one of my best bench purchases ever and I kick myself for taking so long to figure that out. Anyway, I enjoy your videos and empathize with your saltiness at what you see inside amps these days. Cheers.
I'll get one eventually. But I see my buddies using them and bam, clogged. ;) If I had to recap a bunch of mixing channels it would pay for itself. And thanks!
Lyle, you may not be seeking guru status but you've become mine simply by being so straight-forward and articulate. I've played electric guitar for 55 yrs without much regard for the electronics until lately becoming more of a tone-chaser. Possibly to compensate for diminished dexterity. Your theatrical background is oddly well-suited to technical-instructional presentation: the perfect marriage of guitar and amp is a dramatic experience.
Ah, the little details. Like looking at a component, finding the part number or specs labeling, then bending the leads so the part info is readable from the top when soldered into place. Genius. A great habit to internalize for any new build or repair work.
Lyle great video no matter what amp you work on you always go the extra mile and it always show in your meticulous work you are a Master at your Craft. Thank you for all the great Videos. I’m getting ready to Recap my JCM900 mark 3 2100. I wish you were closer to me because you would be doing it for sure.
If you ever do use a spring loaded solder-sucker, I recommend lubricating the o-ring and rod with Dow Corning silicone vacuum grease. It has better lubricating properties than Apiezon-L and unlike Fomblin, it won't decompose and create acrid and toxic compounds when heated. If you also coat the spring, solder won't stick to it and it makes clearing the solder a bit easier. When I was doing field service work, using a desoldering station wouldn't have been practical, even if I wanted to try it. In most situations I found wick to be more effective, although in a few situations the solder sucker worked better.
I had to fix one for a friend last year. it had a 12ax7 in the reverb that injected too much hum in the poweramp, replaced it with a 12au7 and it got almost completely quiet and the reverb was finally usable. I also discovered that the stock tail resistor was so high value that the PI was clipping asymmetrically all the time, so i changed that too. but it took me months of trouble shooting in the spare time before i found the solution. It's a pretty common hum issue that nobody on the marshall forum could solve. Same sensitivity to moving the wires around the fx loop/reverb circuit. 12au7 in the loop/reverb. Done
I heard the “ Shiny “ . That’s my jam it’s about the only kids movie song I’ve ever liked. The crab had some swag man , dude is balling at the bottom of the ocean .
This video is especially interesting as I have an old JCM 800 4210 in storage which I will be reviving as soon as I have my workshop finished so this will be really useful info👍😀
Thanx for showing which braid you use. I haven’t had much luck using the brands I tried. Even with a flux pen they’re still pretty hit or miss as to whether any solder will soak up. I’ll give the techspray a try.
Years ago I worked at an electronics plant making radar displays for the Navy. Per their specs, the parts would fail inspection if the flat washers were installed with the flatter side up. Made life more interesting.
Nice videography, Lyle. I can see everything. Impressive as usual. There is a little bit of a galvanic reaction between those dissimilar metals between the ring terminals & that anodized/galvanized steel chassis. A little glob of quality dielectric grease works well to slow that reaction down. Ilsco DeOxIt is a good product. You want the green stuff. Dow Corning made a very good one too. (>$$$$!!!)
With the spring loaded suckers, I just always give it an extra push and release cycle or two after removing some solder. This will clear any small bits that got stuck and prevent you from having to fish out a big chunk later.
Filter-cap mounting clamps often come with slotted screws for the clamping tabs, or occasionally Philips. I wish they'd use Torx or Allen head screws, and Keps nuts with built-in star washers; they'd be much easier to loosen and tighten.
I remember that the first version of this circuit used red led's for clipping and discrete components for channel switching. Whereas this version used a bridge diode rectifier for clipping and an IC for switching. And I thought the nuts were the ones at Marshall that designed this thing.
Your channel is my favorite! Thanks for your great content and taking the time to teach us some logical troubleshooting skills! Do you use a tube tester often? Would you recommend investing in one? I never see you use one or mention them in your videos. Thanks!!
Was the "black paint" used as threadlocking compound originally red? Some formulations of that lacquer-like compound darken and become corrosive after years of heat from the tubes. Things could be worse ---- at least they didn't use Sony Bond to glue capacitors to the boards. That stuff does lots of damage to vintage audio gear: I've broken numerous dental picks over the years, scraping it off. I guess you can call it PC-board plaque.....
Nah, just black paint. Freeze spray and a heat gun are your friends with old nasty glues. Sometimes alcohol helps. If none of that gets the glue off, alcohol definitely helps.
@@PsionicAudio , freeze spray is definitely helpful. Most "canned air" (keyboard duster, etc) isn't actually air and will act like Freon if you turn the can update down and spray the glue (at work, we use Dust-Off, from Stoner). Have you worked on any guitar amps that have glue corrosion on the pc boards? I haven't seen any in your videos, though that Blues Jr had glue holding a couple of plug-in connectors in place. Annoying when you need to pull a board, but not generally problematic in that application.
@@PsionicAudio , The worst case scenario with conductive, corrosive glue is when the corrosion creeps down along the component lead and through the hole in the board. Not only do I often replace diodes and resistors (and sometimes I insulated jumper wires) where the corrosion is right up against the body of the device, but often when I remove the corroded part I find I also have to ream out the hole in the circuit board slightly in order to remove any traces of glue or corrosion down there in that hole. If you don't remove it you will often see that the solder actually *bubbles* when you solder the new replacement part in place (electrolyte leakage from capacitors can have the same bubbling effect, plus the infamous fishy smell). I have seen cases where the solder joint looks fine but the corrosion has electrically separated the component lead from the solder, inside the joint where you can't see it! I have a couple of tiny drill bits, like 1/32nd of an inch or so, chucked into Exacto-knife handles so that I can easily ream out the glue and corrosion from the holes in the board. Now if only I could find a way that one could glue foils back down to a board securely when they lift due to heat from components or a previous techs poor soldering skills.... no such high temperature glue exists that I'm aware of....
Marshall could have diagonally staggered those caps too. I would have. Those pot nuts were slam stamped from sheet steel. The rounded side is the top where the punches came down & knocked out hexagon shapes with round holes. The flat-ish (cupped) side is the side where the dies sat. It's a cheap, fast & efficient manufacturing process but the end product is rather substandard.
Curious about your opinion on this. What year of the years they've produced these Marshall reissues did they get it right? Are the current reissues up to par with the originals?
Only had two non-1987/1959 reissues in. A 2203 and a 2550. Neither was built as well as the originals. Fixed minor issues, both amps sounded OK. Not great. Sent them home.
I have a Marshall DSL40C that the sound cuts out after playing for 10 minutes. I already changed the tubes out, and took it to my local guitar tech, who changed the voltage regulator. Do you have any ideas what the problem could be? After searching the Marshall forums, I think this is a common problem. Any help would be appreciated.
Voltage memory get interesting when it in the 100k to 22k mf ( .1 to .2 F) you can see 5 volts form on them before first use ! Below 10k not much of a problem from my point of view if they where discharged . Try rotating the clamp 180 degrees leaving the screw out in the open on the right one on the screen . Just a thought. An other very good video .
I have rotated a lot of Marshall clamps. There was a reason I didn't here but I don't recall now. I think it would have been blocked on the other side if I had.
Man I worked on a couple of these years ago. The board design drove me nuts, mostly because it needed new pots... the replacements are the wrong size. I have a particular disdain for this era of Marshall.
For a couple decades I did my desoldering and removal much the way you do it. There's nothing wrong with that approach and it works. Recently I splurged and bought a nice powered desoldering station. After a few months of using it, I will never go back to the old method unless I'm in the field. It's so much safer for the board and cuts my work time easily in half. Also, if I have to remove a whole slew of transistors to test them, it's orders of magnitude easier with the station. You should consider it. Easily one of my best bench purchases ever and I kick myself for taking so long to figure that out. Anyway, I enjoy your videos and empathize with your saltiness at what you see inside amps these days. Cheers.
I'll get one eventually. But I see my buddies using them and bam, clogged. ;)
If I had to recap a bunch of mixing channels it would pay for itself.
And thanks!
Lyle, you may not be seeking guru status but you've become mine simply by being so straight-forward and articulate. I've played electric guitar for 55 yrs without much regard for the electronics until lately becoming more of a tone-chaser. Possibly to compensate for diminished dexterity. Your theatrical background is oddly well-suited to technical-instructional presentation: the perfect marriage of guitar and amp is a dramatic experience.
I love watching you work. My wife thinks this is my ASMR channel.
Ah, the little details. Like looking at a component, finding the part number or specs labeling, then bending the leads so the part info is readable from the top when soldered into place. Genius. A great habit to internalize for any new build or repair work.
Play the video backwards! Love it.
this is like therapy watching you work
I hope you and yours are safe and happy! Your honesty and humour are much appreciated. Thanks for the great videos.
Moana is one of my kids favorite movies. Tomatoa scene is now stuck in my head had to watch it again. Thanks Lyle
Thanks for another great video!
Lyle great video no matter what amp you work on you always go the extra mile and it always show in your meticulous work you are a Master at your Craft. Thank you for all the great Videos. I’m getting ready to Recap my JCM900 mark 3 2100. I wish you were closer to me because you would be doing it for sure.
If you ever do use a spring loaded solder-sucker, I recommend lubricating the o-ring and rod with Dow Corning silicone vacuum grease. It has better lubricating properties than Apiezon-L and unlike Fomblin, it won't decompose and create acrid and toxic compounds when heated. If you also coat the spring, solder won't stick to it and it makes clearing the solder a bit easier.
When I was doing field service work, using a desoldering station wouldn't have been practical, even if I wanted to try it. In most situations I found wick to be more effective, although in a few situations the solder sucker worked better.
I had to fix one for a friend last year. it had a 12ax7 in the reverb that injected too much hum in the poweramp, replaced it with a 12au7 and it got almost completely quiet and the reverb was finally usable. I also discovered that the stock tail resistor was so high value that the PI was clipping asymmetrically all the time, so i changed that too. but it took me months of trouble shooting in the spare time before i found the solution. It's a pretty common hum issue that nobody on the marshall forum could solve. Same sensitivity to moving the wires around the fx loop/reverb circuit. 12au7 in the loop/reverb. Done
I heard the “ Shiny “ . That’s my jam it’s about the only kids movie song I’ve ever liked. The crab had some swag man , dude is balling at the bottom of the ocean .
This video is especially interesting as I have an old JCM 800 4210 in storage which I will be reviving as soon as I have my workshop finished so this will be really useful info👍😀
Awsome work as usual. I gotta get my 93 jcm 900 sl-x recapped.
Thanx for showing which braid you use. I haven’t had much luck using the brands I tried. Even with a flux pen they’re still pretty hit or miss as to whether any solder will soak up. I’ll give the techspray a try.
Years ago I worked at an electronics plant making radar displays for the Navy. Per their specs, the parts would fail inspection if the flat washers were installed with the flatter side up. Made life more interesting.
If Marshall had used washers beneath the nuts it would be a non-issue. But the corners of the flat side of the nuts gouge the front panel metal.
Nice videography, Lyle. I can see everything. Impressive as usual. There is a little bit of a galvanic reaction between those dissimilar metals between the ring terminals & that anodized/galvanized steel chassis. A little glob of quality dielectric grease works well to slow that reaction down. Ilsco DeOxIt is a good product. You want the green stuff. Dow Corning made a very good one too. (>$$$$!!!)
With the spring loaded suckers, I just always give it an extra push and release cycle or two after removing some solder. This will clear any small bits that got stuck and prevent you from having to fish out a big chunk later.
...bringing it back to life! Will be even better once you get those wires replaced and dress/routing some of the wires. Customer will be happy.
Filter-cap mounting clamps often come with slotted screws for the clamping tabs, or occasionally Philips. I wish they'd use Torx or Allen head screws, and Keps nuts with built-in star washers; they'd be much easier to loosen and tighten.
Amen
I remember that the first version of this circuit used red led's for clipping and discrete components for channel switching. Whereas this version used a bridge diode rectifier for clipping and an IC for switching. And I thought the nuts were the ones at Marshall that designed this thing.
Tamatoa scene is now stuck in my head.
Your channel is my favorite! Thanks for your great content and taking the time to teach us some logical troubleshooting skills!
Do you use a tube tester often? Would you recommend investing in one? I never see you use one or mention them in your videos. Thanks!!
Amps make the best tube tester. I have two but haven't restored them. No pressing need.
@@PsionicAudio That certainly makes sense. Thanks for the fast response!
Was the "black paint" used as threadlocking compound originally red? Some formulations of that lacquer-like compound darken and become corrosive after years of heat from the tubes. Things could be worse ---- at least they didn't use Sony Bond to glue capacitors to the boards. That stuff does lots of damage to vintage audio gear: I've broken numerous dental picks over the years, scraping it off. I guess you can call it PC-board plaque.....
Nah, just black paint.
Freeze spray and a heat gun are your friends with old nasty glues. Sometimes alcohol helps.
If none of that gets the glue off, alcohol definitely helps.
@@PsionicAudio , freeze spray is definitely helpful. Most "canned air" (keyboard duster, etc) isn't actually air and will act like Freon if you turn the can update down and spray the glue (at work, we use Dust-Off, from Stoner). Have you worked on any guitar amps that have glue corrosion on the pc boards? I haven't seen any in your videos, though that Blues Jr had glue holding a couple of plug-in connectors in place. Annoying when you need to pull a board, but not generally problematic in that application.
Peavey Classic Series can be a glue nightmare.
@@PsionicAudio , The worst case scenario with conductive, corrosive glue is when the corrosion creeps down along the component lead and through the hole in the board. Not only do I often replace diodes and resistors (and sometimes I insulated jumper wires) where the corrosion is right up against the body of the device, but often when I remove the corroded part I find I also have to ream out the hole in the circuit board slightly in order to remove any traces of glue or corrosion down there in that hole. If you don't remove it you will often see that the solder actually *bubbles* when you solder the new replacement part in place (electrolyte leakage from capacitors can have the same bubbling effect, plus the infamous fishy smell). I have seen cases where the solder joint looks fine but the corrosion has electrically separated the component lead from the solder, inside the joint where you can't see it! I have a couple of tiny drill bits, like 1/32nd of an inch or so, chucked into Exacto-knife handles so that I can easily ream out the glue and corrosion from the holes in the board. Now if only I could find a way that one could glue foils back down to a board securely when they lift due to heat from components or a previous techs poor soldering skills.... no such high temperature glue exists that I'm aware of....
Grocery store shock...
Nothing you can do about that type of shock😉
😎👍
Marshall could have diagonally staggered those caps too. I would have. Those pot nuts were slam stamped from sheet steel. The rounded side is the top where the punches came down & knocked out hexagon shapes with round holes. The flat-ish (cupped) side is the side where the dies sat. It's a cheap, fast & efficient manufacturing process but the end product is rather substandard.
Have you considered the Tech21 Trademark amps in your
Which solder do you use?, I bought that braid because I saw it in another video and it works great
Kester 60/40 .032.
@@PsionicAudio thanks
Curious about your opinion on this. What year of the years they've produced these Marshall reissues did they get it right? Are the current reissues up to par with the originals?
Only had two non-1987/1959 reissues in. A 2203 and a 2550. Neither was built as well as the originals. Fixed minor issues, both amps sounded OK. Not great. Sent them home.
I wish I had a good source for the caps you use.
Consider MS21042L(x) locking nuts for ground lugs.
18:43 You have a very nice vibrato, sir :)
Thanks, but that was just the vibrato from the bridge.
I have a Marshall DSL40C that the sound cuts out after playing for 10 minutes. I already changed the tubes out, and took it to my local guitar tech, who changed the voltage regulator. Do you have any ideas what the problem could be? After searching the Marshall forums, I think this is a common problem. Any help would be appreciated.
When I had that it was tin whiskers in a pot. Compressed air fixed it.
curious, around here mothers day was a week ago....
Where is "here"?
UK has Mother’s Day early coinciding with Easter I think.
@@PsionicAudio Portugal...you know....Fado, Amália, Port wine, Ronaldo, Eusébio ...
We loved our time in Lisbon. I still daydream about Pasteis de Belem. And I still want to get a Portuguese guitarra. Such incredible sounds.
@@PsionicAudio have you disabled links in yr comments section? I've just posted an answer with a link and the comment is gone!
Where are you located at bro?
Memphis
@@PsionicAudio wow...about 2.5 west/northwest of me here in Birmingham. Whats your hourly rate?
Do you think a Peavy bandit is worth doing new caps and tubes?
Corrosion of the nuts? I think they make an ointment for that now...
Voltage memory get interesting when it in the 100k to 22k mf ( .1 to .2 F) you can see 5 volts form on them before first use ! Below 10k not much of a problem from my point of view if they where discharged . Try rotating the clamp 180 degrees leaving the screw out in the open on the right one on the screen . Just a thought. An other very good video .
I have rotated a lot of Marshall clamps. There was a reason I didn't here but I don't recall now. I think it would have been blocked on the other side if I had.
@@PsionicAudio Well you had your hands on it . All I had was a look so good call.
Man I worked on a couple of these years ago. The board design drove me nuts, mostly because it needed new pots... the replacements are the wrong size. I have a particular disdain for this era of Marshall.
You should look into doing voice over work.
"nice example of a useless circuit" - isn't that what a Klon is? Oops... that slipped. Shame on me.