I’ve learned more LS swap information from your channel than 95% of the others out there. Simple basic and not trying to sell me something I don’t need but just the opposite in trying to save swappers money. Just for a piece of info, though I’ve not pulled nor swapped nearly as much as yourself, I’ve found that in the express vans I’ve pulled all had a slip yoke that we are looking for… obviously this could vary but just in my experience. I’m always referencing your videos and thought I’d share… thanks for all the content. GT
Thanks for this video you answered some questions I've been researching for days. I am not great with transmissions and will be swapping the blown 4l60e for a 4l80e with transgo kit an your videos have helped me a lot.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Automatic transmissions mystify me. I don't understand but every youtube video chips away some of that mystery. Maybe I should get a scrap 4l60 and tear into it. The worst that can happen is it will still be scrap.
Here is something for you. When you mentioned the check balls being the same on various trans. If the check balls are the same size on the 4l60e and the 4l80e. The issue of them sticking in the separator plate. You need a bigger check ball to help this problem (of course). I found a ball bearing that is .015" bigger to help this problem and is easy to get ahold of. The ball bearings in a 10 si GM alternator front housing is .015" bigger then the check balls in the valve body. It is the bearing number #6203 or a #203 bearing (same bearing). That bearing is also the same bearing used in the idler and tensioner pulleys on the belt system of the LS Vortec engines also, and any other engine too. I know this because instead of buying new pulleys for the tensioner and idler pulleys on my 05 Vortec, I bummed the bearings off my boss who rebuilds alternators, to fix my pulleys. It's an easy and cheap bearing to get ahold of and is widely used. I used the ball bearings, well one of them because the separator plate was showing wear (4l60e) of the check ball sticking in the plate and I knew the fix was a bigger ball and took apart one bearing and measured the ball bearings (8 ball bearings in one bearing). My trans seems to be working fine with the ball bearing in it. What do you think?
Yeah, people make silly comments, but when I travel around and talk to people doing stuff and buy used parts or whatever, everyone's garage looks like mine 😂
Man you have some good information in your videos. I'd recommend something to stabilize your camera because that thing bouncing all over was driving me nuts. It's like someone trying to show you something on a computer and constantly moving the mouse around to distract you. Excellent info though!!
Where do you have your shop for a rebuilt... mine was rebuilt about 4 years ago. And now reverse is out... took it back in and was fix. But six months later went out again... the shop told me they had add mm of metal to tip. So I’m assuming it easer broke off or wear out.
What is a fair shop price for rebuilding a 4L80E? I am going to retrofit one into a BMW and would like a guess from someone who knows these trans. I will be going turbo and a ZF auto won't hold anything over stock HP & torque. I will only have around 350~400 Hp & torque and want a unit take is not too rough shift when not in boost.
You get a Sub! Funny, we have a Muffy, that looks like your Peanut, and we have a Peanut! I Love my pack, and they Love to Ride. Anything, Anywhere! Thanks for the Vids, and the HowToo's.
A higher stall softens shifts. However, that correlates to the larger hole sizes I drilled, not the accumulator's I removed. I remove all accumulator's, unless it's a dedicated tow truck, or like an RV trans or something.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer Ahh ok. I ran a high stall with a 4l80 I built but kept the accumulators not knowing this. BTW your mods are almost exactly what I did. However I did the sonnax sure cure kit with afl reamer. BTW if doing dual feed and keeping the accumulators you'll want to remove the reverse checkball to help the reverse band engage quickly. Friendly advice from a big wig on yellowbullet forums. (not me, an actual expert)
Hey Jr, so after watching the series, I’m wondering if it’s still possible to mix in the hd2 kit with the info you provided? I understand that this way basically replaces the hd2 kit but can one use the hd2 kit while also drilling bigger holes and new ones in the direct drum and pump or is it one or the other? Thank you.
The Driveway Engineer completely agree. The transmission I got from the junkyard has an hd2 kit, and since drilling some holes and removing a seal is free I was wondering if it was compatible.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I’ve learned more LS swap information from your channel than 95% of the others out there. Simple basic and not trying to sell me something I don’t need but just the opposite in trying to save swappers money. Just for a piece of info, though I’ve not pulled nor swapped nearly as much as yourself, I’ve found that in the express vans I’ve pulled all had a slip yoke that we are looking for… obviously this could vary but just in my experience. I’m always referencing your videos and thought I’d share… thanks for all the content.
GT
wish more repair videos were made like yours, thanks for sharing your knowledge
Thanks for this video you answered some questions I've been researching for days. I am not great with transmissions and will be swapping the blown 4l60e for a 4l80e with transgo kit an your videos have helped me a lot.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Automatic transmissions mystify me. I don't understand but every youtube video chips away some of that mystery. Maybe I should get a scrap 4l60 and tear into it. The worst that can happen is it will still be scrap.
That is a good attitude and idea.
Get the ATSG and get in there!
Here is something for you. When you mentioned the check balls being the same on various trans. If the check balls are the same size on the 4l60e and the 4l80e. The issue of them sticking in the separator plate. You need a bigger check ball to help this problem (of course). I found a ball bearing that is .015" bigger to help this problem and is easy to get ahold of. The ball bearings in a 10 si GM alternator front housing is .015" bigger then the check balls in the valve body. It is the bearing number #6203 or a #203 bearing (same bearing). That bearing is also the same bearing used in the idler and tensioner pulleys on the belt system of the LS Vortec engines also, and any other engine too. I know this because instead of buying new pulleys for the tensioner and idler pulleys on my 05 Vortec, I bummed the bearings off my boss who rebuilds alternators, to fix my pulleys. It's an easy and cheap bearing to get ahold of and is widely used. I used the ball bearings, well one of them because the separator plate was showing wear (4l60e) of the check ball sticking in the plate and I knew the fix was a bigger ball and took apart one bearing and measured the ball bearings (8 ball bearings in one bearing). My trans seems to be working fine with the ball bearing in it. What do you think?
I use Ford Torlon check balls so I never have to deal with separator plate wear.
Experience in a variety pay off. Thanks for sharing the info
Love your garage, it’s a total mess - just like mine. I’d feel right at home. 😝
Yeah, people make silly comments, but when I travel around and talk to people doing stuff and buy used parts or whatever, everyone's garage looks like mine 😂
@@TheDrivewayEngineer a garage is measured by what comes out of it not what's in it.
Bro it always comes back to u .. now ima attempt a 4l80 rebuild
It's easy! If you can swap a cam you can rebuild an 80
Ingeniero show us what to look in for de damage parts even how you know if the fricción clutches are good I see all disarm
Man you have some good information in your videos. I'd recommend something to stabilize your camera because that thing bouncing all over was driving me nuts. It's like someone trying to show you something on a computer and constantly moving the mouse around to distract you.
Excellent info though!!
I second that. Love the info but I was getting nauseous trying to watch. Tripod!
Where do you have your shop for a rebuilt... mine was rebuilt about 4 years ago. And now reverse is out... took it back in and was fix. But six months later went out again... the shop told me they had add mm of metal to tip. So I’m assuming it easer broke off or wear out.
What is a fair shop price for rebuilding a 4L80E? I am going to retrofit one into a BMW and would like a guess from someone who knows these trans. I will be going turbo and a ZF auto won't hold anything over stock HP & torque. I will only have around 350~400 Hp & torque and want a unit take is not too rough shift when not in boost.
Stock rebuild I can have done locally for 400 bucks.
For that price I won't even mess with it myself.
You get a Sub!
Funny, we have a Muffy, that looks like your Peanut, and we have a Peanut!
I Love my pack, and they Love to Ride. Anything, Anywhere!
Thanks for the Vids, and the HowToo's.
We've since added a Coconut to our menagerie, they are Pomerian/Maltese, what kind of dog is Muffy?
Do you have a Stall converter rec? wanting it to push the brakes around 3200rpm. I would like to keep it under 700 if possible
Call Ryan Jans at Tampa Performance
I'm in Richmond MI. - Where you at?
I'm near Lansing.
How does having a stall mean it's ok to remove accumulators? Serious question!
A higher stall softens shifts.
However, that correlates to the larger hole sizes I drilled, not the accumulator's I removed.
I remove all accumulator's, unless it's a dedicated tow truck, or like an RV trans or something.
@@TheDrivewayEngineer Ahh ok. I ran a high stall with a 4l80 I built but kept the accumulators not knowing this. BTW your mods are almost exactly what I did. However I did the sonnax sure cure kit with afl reamer. BTW if doing dual feed and keeping the accumulators you'll want to remove the reverse checkball to help the reverse band engage quickly. Friendly advice from a big wig on yellowbullet forums. (not me, an actual expert)
Check ball are.250 or one quarter inch.
Hey Jr, so after watching the series, I’m wondering if it’s still possible to mix in the hd2 kit with the info you provided? I understand that this way basically replaces the hd2 kit but can one use the hd2 kit while also drilling bigger holes and new ones in the direct drum and pump or is it one or the other? Thank you.
There's nothing else to the HD2 kit except the return springs.. Why would you pay 100 bucks for some springs?
The Driveway Engineer completely agree. The transmission I got from the junkyard has an hd2 kit, and since drilling some holes and removing a seal is free I was wondering if it was compatible.
@@eduardoesquivel2424 if it already has an HD2, it's already done.
The Driveway Engineer Ohh alright, thank you for the help!
Cat ran off with the plug... Sounds like the dog ate your homework.
Nice job
👍👍👍👍
Re watching this lol my dog ate my homework comes to mind
.375 = 1/8 02:52 😳🤦♂️ .375 = 3/8🤓👍🏻
the correct check balls are 1/4"
Aren't you just a fucking genius
I got sea sick watching this
I'll get your refund in the mail