My Military Land Rover: Full Tour (Pre-Restoration)
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- Опубліковано 1 гру 2024
- I recently bought a british military land rover series 3 lightweight and here is a full tour of it as I bought it. Hoping to do a restoration of it so thought I would show you all what it looks like before we got working on it!
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Hi, I owned that car for a decade and we had many good memories from our trips in it. Took it to Snowdonia and the peak district, and much more besides. Hope you enjoy it and look after it well!
This exact one? Who did you sell it to? That’s awesome! It’s a great vehicle I’m loving using it.
Mike ,enjoy your time with your dad,they are very precious moments,I have sadly recently lost mine ....Best wishes from Wales 🏴
In the early 80s, I drove the petrol version of those Land rovers in the military before we got the diesel version, I used to pull the choke out to flood the engine before I parked up for the night and they always started up first time in the mornings. I did prefer the diesels, though, much less hassle.
Yes, double de-clutching is the way to go. When doing so, make sure to match your revs with the road speed before releasing the clutch and engaging the next gear - especially when going down the gears. And take your time, don't rush the change. When you get used to it you'll find yourself doing it in your modern vehicles too.
simultaneously ease off the revs and depress clutch, then move gear stick to neutral, release clutch, match revs to road speed, depress clutch, shift stick to next gear and keeping the revs up release clutch. There, simple.
Lannys have been syncro mesh since the late 70`s.
Great Landrover update, looks like you and your dad have lots of fun ahead with this restoration. I'm looking forward to watching. 👍
Cheers Arielle!
@@LifeofMikeOfficial Skinned knuckles here we come! I had to buy a Land Rover a good few years ago as the girlfriend was fed up of me using our Range Rover for work, got an ex military 109 FFR that had been well looked after, not a spot of rust on the chassis that still had the original factory underseal in place, it also had the twin fuel tanks, at when parked up I would turn the changeover switch to the mid position just in case someone tried to steal it. Engine would start but soon cut out!!
So lovely seeing you both, I have followed you , TA fishing, and Bushcraft Tools since the beginning. it's so lovely. Best wishes from the UK 🇬🇧
Thanks!
A very good morning Mike,
Excellent video!! Can't wait for the restoration as it progresses.
Although the real star of the presentation is your "Dad".
Absolutely classic British sense of humor and I'm quite sure an absolute sweetheart of a gentleman.
All of the best you and yours (Dad),
Terry
Cheers Terry!
Hi Mike, After I left the Army in Germany many moons ago I bought a 24v FFR, Air Portable series 3. Top speed was only 110Kmh. Paid only 4000 German Marks for it early 80's. Love to see more about it.
May have been mentioned already but the aerial boxes on the wings make great beer cooler cupboards when on long journeys thanks to the wind blowing over them! 👌
Haha thanks!
This vehicle looks amazing. I used to drive landrovers like this in the Singapore Army but this vehicle has some history i'm thinking.
These would of been the ones used when I was in the military. Happy times.
Hi, I had a lightweight. Loved it would have another one tomorrow.
Nice old Landy. Just bought an older 24v one. Good luck to you
You and your Dad have a lot of work...and fun...ahead. Good luck! Looking forward to seeing what comes next.
The boxes on the front are TUAAM
Tuning unit automatic antennae matching
Always taught to pull away in second only use first when you really have to
Only use first for hill starts
I had one down the Falklands for about 6 months, I had to double clutch it every time and set off in 2nd gear, no one else could drive it without having problems so it turned into my private run about, I had a great time bombing about in it, have fun and enjoy its little foibles
Thanks for the video Mike. Looking forward to the restoration of this vehicle in the future.
Looks amazing... cant wait to see all done.
love it.
I've got a 2a lhd lightweight and a rhd series 3 lightweight. congrats, looks like you got a nice one
Awesome! Glad to be part of the Lightweight family.
Lanoguard will seal all the underside. Just wire brush it all down and spray on the lanoguard. It's brilliant stuff.
Single fuel gauge should work with either tank. Ours did.
Good to know! Cheers
@@LifeofMikeOfficial Some dual fuel tank setups here in Australia work by the second tank just pumping fuel into the first tank, so perhaps that's why the gauge only shows the primary tank? I'd still like dual gauges but perhaps that's what it is.
Owned a couple Lightweights in the past great fun, a Big Boys Meccarno set, 12V and the FFR 24V enjoy
Nice one Mike, looking forward to seeing it restored
My goodness I’ve driven thousands of miles in them lightweights. ❤
Not bad Mick. Looks like your going to need a roll of sheet metal, welder, and skme snips. Shouldnt be too bad. Over here state side, can get a 20 foot roll of sheet metal pretty cheap. Been a couple years but last time i looked it was around $30 here. Looking forward to seeing what ya do with this.
For being 40 years old, id have expected worse. Looks like ya need a few seals at worst, for now think of the oil drip as "rust prevention" lol
The gauge should update when you flip the switch. Sounds like a broken wire from the sending unit switch... Maybe need sending units. Looks like a typical case of neglect throughout. Not terrible, but prolly going to find lots of little problems. Once ya get thru them though, ought to be a good rig. If ya want to pick up a little ground clearance, could flip the axles over and slip them under the leaf springs. One thing, if you do, replace the universal joints on both ends of the drive lines. The old ones will go out fairly quickly due to the angle change.
Wouldn't worry about the choke issue. Compression test the motor, get oil analysis when you change it, that'll tell ya a lot. Choke being out til shes warmed up is pretty typical of a manual choke. Each engine has its little quirks. I had a 71 Ford F-150 in high school. Thing needed half choke after starting for nearly an hour during the winter months. Should beable to push it in once its warmed up to standard operating temperature. If its out after thats reached, your fuel/mix might be a little too lean, and i do mean a little. Like maybe a 32nd of a turn on the screw on the carb tops. Misfiring is usually timing, looks like after he swapped the carb he discovered fuel flow issues. Looks like he did a basic tune up also. Thats helpful. If shes still misfiring, double check the spark plug gap.
The rear tyres are the correct type for the lightweight, but shouldne 6.50x16 size. The bargrips (your spare) were only fitted to very early lightweights in the late 1960s. Don't be tempted to modify it tok kuch, very few of these have survived unmolested. Oh and check your speedo is correct for the tyre size as it may still be for the original smaller tyres.
I restored one of these in the 90s. Painted it yellow and drove it all over the place including a couple of trip so Germany and back. So simple to work on with the petrol engine.
Awesome! Good to hear of others using them and restoring them. All new to me!
Love the light weights 👌
Fair play buying one of these am looking at getting one 🤪 ive got a heavily modified d2 atm that needs work aswell 😂 good video lad 👍
The fuel tank changeover valve should have 2 switches mounted on the back of it(fuel tank side of seatbox), when switching tanks the lever operates the switches, connecting the selected tanks sender to the gauge.
Original tyre size was 6.50 for the lightweight, but many were fitted with 7.50s(standard on LWB LRs) in service and by later civvy owners. 7.50 give slightly better ground clearance and a bit higher gearing.
Thanks! Interesting info.
Been waiting for this to drop since your dad gave us a sneak peak on his channel. Will watch this evening when the boy is in bed. 🤘🏽
got yourself a relatively clean series 3 light weight,
also the little village you drove through look quaint and peaceful, not a whole lot of traffic
i try to catch your videos as and when i can
For me it sounds like if you have to have the choke out for so long the carb are set to lean. You need to have enough fuel for the engine to work as it should. The warmer it gets the leaner it can go but if you run it to lean it will run hot and it can be a problem in the log run. Best is to check in the service manual what co value you should have and the check and adjust the carb so you are in the right spot. Keep up the good videos & I would love to have an old series 2 or 3 myself.. Maybe some day 🙂
What a fun project!
Really enjoyed watching very interesting stuff
Check out your engine block casting, it is probably a late version 5 bearing engine, this can be checked by the reinforcing ribs on the outer side of the aluminium engine block.
Looks like fun!
I have yet to watch this fully but I agree with Graham about it being a "money pit". I ran a 1967 109" Safari for ten years and it certainly burnt a few holes in the wallet and it's contents! Good luck Mike I shall follow with interest 👍
Great little project this, Mike. Congrats! :)
Looks a great bit of fun! Just needs the black and silver number plates haha, Check out 'framptons number plates'👍
get a hand pump sprayer, and fill with something like thompsons water seal and spray inside and out side of tarp a few times, will close up pin holes and really protect stitching making things moisture and rot resistant/waterproof.. not sure if i can post a link, will try.
Always had a soft spot for the old lightweight, had a 1984ish ex-military (Cardiff University OTC I think it was) 109 a good few years ago which was good fun too. With my current Discovery, the MoT guy reported that it had an oil leak and then added "but it's a Land Rover !"...I guess it's when they don't leak that we need to be concerned.
It's beautiful!
Just came across your upload and I did my driver training on a lightweight in 89. The tire on the back left is the original pattern tire not the one on the bonnet. Apologies if it's already been mentioned.
Love this content Mike, thanks.
Cheers! More to come soon.
Keep up the good work take that land rover on some adventures with u and please do some videos camping with it ❤🔥💯
The lightweight Land Rover looks like the perfect vehicle for the zombie apocalypse.
SU carb conversion trumps the Zenith and Weber. A few quid to do but will fly after
I would have just got the Zenith carb overhauled, it is a better carb .
Fuel gauge should switch between the two tank sender units when you move the lever over. Ground out the Green/Black wire that goes on the sender unit to earth, and confirm the gauge needle rises to full. If it does, you have sender unit fault. If it doesn't rise to full, you could have either wiring fault, change of switch issue, voltage stabiliser faulty or the gauge itself.
The gearbox will be full syncromesh, so just drive as a normal car. No need to double-de-clutch.
Check the gear linkage at the top. There should be a flap with 2 springs ( they get weak after time ) replace them ( not expensive no need to remove gearbox) that will stop you going into reverse instead of first gear. Easy fix.
I have an ex-military Series 3 too (not a lightweight though). Good luck with yours. Re the rusty bonnet-mounted spare wheel, I drilled a small (3mm) hole in the lowest point of the wheel and it allows rain to drain away. Obviously you need to derust and paint your wheel but once you've done that, drill the small hole and it will never fill with rain water again. You say it's not 24V but if you have the aerial boxes it should be 24V. Maybe it's been civilian converted to 12V. Aluminium panel on floor is standard (steel for the angled panel by the pedals, make sure not rusty on the 'wheels' side. Transposed L and R on fuel tap is odd, should be not transposed. And, to answer your question, one fuel gauge is correct, it takes a reading from whichever tank is 'active'. There is a sender for each tank and the tap takes the appropriate reading and passes it to the gauge. Make up a fuel dipstick from a length of dowel. With a full tank mark 4/4, then just measure and add 3/4, 1/2 and 1/4. Make sure your fuel hoses are R9 (ethanol resistant). Never use E10 petrol in any old vehicle. Use E5 max, e.g. BP Ultimate or Shell V Power. Use a leaded additive. Re finding first gear, yes, it is the hardest to find but gets much better as you get familiar. There is a 'detent' (resistance) for reverse but its very subtle. If you gently feel for this your see that first is just as the detent resistance is felt. Looks like yours is like mine was when bought - nothing major but lots of little jobs. Means you can work your way through them and tick them off the list. Beauty is that it's a running vehicle. You should have gone into the pub and found the other Landy owner, I'm sure he'd have been only too happy to chat. Landy owners are all friendly as you will discover.
Many thanks for the tips! I really appreciate that. Just starting out on the journey so it’s really useful to know info from people who own these vehicles. Really like the idea of the dip stick. If I get stuck on anything I’ll be sure to mention it in the video and hopefully yourself and others might be able to help 👍🏻
The starting issues are probably due to the carb. The Webber was never intended for a LandRover. People used to fit them as they were more economical but thats because they run lean. This would make them harder to start and probablt reduce power and performance as its never going to get enough fuel. Get the original zenith rebuilt at the carb exchange and that should sort your problems.
Yep I agree.
The Zenith is a better carb when in good condition and tuned properly.
when i had my lightweight it just went on and on, nothing stopped it, the most expencive part i bought was the bulkhead top rail (the bit with the vents) at the time the dealer in cannock had bought up all the top rails and was asking £££'s for them. yours looks very nice.
Save a tire to make a tire swing for your kids when they get a bit bigger! They will have a blast.
mike a lovely leightweight landy there mike try for parts a company called autopost there based in south wimbledon try em out i used to use them for my 4 landrovers and range rover fab people and normally get any part u need from a single nut and bolt to a complete engine good luck buddy cant wait till the next vlog
Top overview of what’s gonna be an ace project for you Mike. Yeah there’s a fair bit of work to be done but nothing that looks really nasty. If I could just say that if you can mate, to to restore parts if you can rather than changing them as I think it would be fab to keep the vehicle in its original state as much as you can but that’s just me. Loved it! Great to see you out with your dad and yeah you definitely should have had a pint haha.
Cheers Mike 👍
Haha cheers Ant! Yeah will keep as much of the old parts as possible 👍🏻
Dad's right proper money pit. 🤣 Good luck Mike, anyone wanting to replicate owning an old car like this just burn £50 a week for 5 years. 🤣
Yes. Double de clutch
Have you fitted a Slickshift?
Yes double the clutch gives a smoother ride guy's 😊
Yep, would have been the original bar grip like on the bonnet, but the security's are ok, a little hard, but then, they'll not let you down.
vent just isn't closed properly, give it another click on the internal lever...
passenger door has had a new door top, still redily available about £100 glazed, you can still get the aluminium ones which are better, but not original...
remove and treat the canvas, it's in good condition so will last a few years.
Screens are super easy to replace, and you can get heated ones for the Series!! Yey!!
Talegat pins, just beat them up and retack in place, they'll be fine!! Lightweight rear tailgates are not that common these days. 😞 only one side has the split pin.
Exhaust is fully available, as are the fixings.
Diff seal again easy to do, there are tricks to aviod a rebuild. other oil leaks, that's nothing unusual, if it don't leak, there ain't any in it! 😛
Leaf springs need a strip and reset, they'll be ok, just starting to spread a little.
Please don't replace the military ID plate! It is it's history!!They are not often there so keep it's bits with it if you can!!
Fuel gauge: there are switches on the back of the switch lever that give the level for the selected tank. so possibly a wire off to the fuel gauge, it could also have been drowned and the gauge is rotted out inside. Had that a few times.
Why didn't you stop and buy yor dad a pint...
Where did your cover come from? I need one for my 1965 109 military 2 door.
Back tyres. Passenger side has tread pattern facing the wrong direction. The arrows in the tread should face forwards. It will help grip and braking.
Thanks! I did wonder this, the tread seemed odd when I was filming it. I think the other one might be the same. I’ll ask the garage when I get the other new tyres put on (different garage this time). Thanks for the info 👍🏻
Swap the rear wheels over from side to side.
Hi have you got any more videos gary
Is it like driving a Tractor with a windscreen ?
MOD land rover wiring is different to normal land rover wiring so if your thinking of changing the dash and light switch your better off fitting all new loom front to back as it will be quicker then modifying what's there best of luck with the restoration.
It only needs one fuel gauge. When is about to go empty, you flick the switch and the needle will go up on itself.
The original tyres were, I think, called "track grip".
Your truck you have there would have definitely been 24 volts. You have yourself a lightweight FFR (fitted for radio) hence the antenna boxes on the wings
Oh and the other lightweight you saw at the pub is a series 2 not 3 like yours
For parts try pa blanchards.
My wife was a military driving instructor in the mid 80s, she hated the early land rovers, ex military 110 land rovers go for around 16 grand Australian ,low kays and reasonable condition. Im thinking of buying one. Any tips?
Just out of curiosity, I noticed when the video started out you were driving on the left side of the road I noticed when you said there is another vehicle like yours at the pub you are on the right side of the road. Does it change like that or did you just jump over to the wrong side of the road? Lol I’m from America but hope to visit the UK one day soon.
Look forward to seeing the restoration as it progresses. I'm guessing spares are widely available? Will you do much of the work yourself Mike. Hope you went to the pub after LOL
All the paint work I will do myself, as for the mechanics, if it needs much that will likely be done by a professional 🤣
@@LifeofMikeOfficial I'm sure your do a great job on the pain job Mike. I'm sure your be able to change a bulb and fix the heater pipe LOL The engine looks in good condition.
If you hevent got a key, you can get ignition by taking out a fuse on the steering column, pushing it in between the two middle fuses therefore bridging them and it will give you ignition. Push start (3rd gear is best) will bump the engine. Remove the fuse once stopped and ignition is cut.
SP Panels or Paintman sell door tops
Hi where did you get the car cover?
EBay 👍🏻
The tread is not the right way round on the rear left, chevrons should face forward, it looks like you got an ex 24volt radio version converted to 12 volts.
First gear is for towing or rough terrain chap.
Next time, Mike - hit the pub. Don't stop on our account!
Can honestly say I’ve never seen anyone put a car cover on a Landy before .
The fuel gauge work in one tank but not the other ?
I had one of those
HI MIKE, LANDROVERS U EITHER LUV E'M OR HATE E'M, ALWAYS WANTED LIGHTWIEGHT BUT DINT HAVE ENOUGH DOSH AT THE TIME, SO SETTLED FOR XARMY GURKHA 110 DEFENDER, IF NOT DOING MOST OF THE WORK YERSEN,SHOP AROUND BCOS ALOT OF SMALL VERY GOOD INDEPENDANTS WHO WILL DO ALOT OF THAT WORK AT FAIR PRICE,REGARDS CAMOMAN IMO😁😁
First, looking forward to this!!
Other one you saw is a 2A Lightweight
That Land rover you have would be seagulls or as you would know them as commander's rover in the old days I do not know if they still use this but you had a bunch of books for Mapco, and Slidex, help me out guys the proper name I cant remember I want to say Slidex but it has been so many years, any way the sigs will know what I am on about, you also need the original town and country wheels to get that authentic sound from the tyres, the annoying sound, any driver of land rovers remembers the many hours of listening to it, also the sounds of wind, shaking noises and the cold on most bits but burning on others, thank god I drove MKs most of the time, RCT 1 squadron Colchester gone now but not forgotten B4 radio operator, I was so not proper military ⚔ I see you bought the looks like the short base, but no Duff I am so amazed anyone would buy an old Land Rover, I hope you know some one in the REME for spares, Shhhh don't tell the government, actually don't tell the MPs either, Juliet Romeo out.
That's right, one fuel guage does do the amount for both, when you switch from one tank to the other it will register for each tank indipendantly, if it was originally 24v your spark plugs will cost you a fortune. Go to the ex military land rover association for more help.
Hi Mike ex forces here
Best to start off in second gear because of weight of vertical and avoid the gear stick from breaking.
10 4 t t f n.
Hope I share these crazy moments and purchases with our two in years to come 😂👍👍
Haha definitely a crazy idea but hopefully a fun project!
Floor panels are aluminium so don’t rot. They are probably the originals.
get the spine saving seat
Mike you may want to censor your license plates in the future. Of course another interesting video and well done. Censoring the license plates for your safety of course. Especially in the world that Im in yea. Anyways another good video man.
No point covering plates, you don't cover plates on the road do you? Not really anything anyone can do with them.
It might be a money trap, but that is a cool vehicle to own.
Carburetor is improperly adjusted. No need to upgrade seatbelts; you'll never fit through the windshield. Fit electronic points and new high powered coil. You will never regret the reliability it provides. After 5 years I got thoroughly sick of points and shitty starting.
Tyres should be 6x16 not 7.50 x16 also bonnet spare tire is jeep style tyre
"Snatch wagon"
Choke. It’s not been set up properly eg timing and mixture.
*Promo sm*
!/2 FFR. I`ve done tens of thosands of miles in one of these. Excellent motor. Both types of tyre on it are ex military. The chevron type being the latter type.
SORRY.... YOU WILL SOON BECOME VERY POOR. APPLY FOR PUBLIC ASSISTANCE NOW.