all i can say is that the music made me love your work a little more, i am a furniture maker but i love what you do, a true master piece, just to say something. simplicity equals the most beautiful, here is the most perfect example.
Thanks Robert 😊 the composer is Adrian Von zeigler here on UA-cam, honestly go check out his music, it's absolutely incredible what he does. You won't be disappointed 😃
Despite the simplicity of the tool and the elementary techniques demonstrated, your work transcends all. This is perhaps the most elegant blacksmithing vid I've ever seen. You're truly an artist!
Very nice video.. Very informational and very helpful video. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge on. Keep making. God bless.
This is one of my favorite forging videos. I see and feel from the video that you have great skill and sense of detail. Combined with Adrian's peaceful music it's just perfect. Keep forging mate, I'm looking forward to your future videos. All the best! Matthew
SKW Bushcraft Thank you Matthew for your kind words, haven't uploaded for a while due to sorting the workshop out and a few computer problems that has stopped me from editing but that's all fixed now so will have a few more videos up soon, more regular videos very soon.Thanks againNathan
Did you have a go? I knew i should have bought a budgie for the workshop, great sounds, please do check out the music producers channel, he makes some really great music. Thanks for watching Julia.
I've watched some of your newer videos and them came back to these ones. I didn't realize I'd seen your stuff before since you didn't narrate these ones.
Nathan, I was sure you were going to pull out a lovely scrolling jig. But no -- a beautifully uniform taper is the key to a natural scroll, it seems. Thanks for the lesson!
Thank you Crabbyfrog, check out my other videos if you get time, there is another on here where i make a fishtail scroll freehand you may enjoy. All the best dude! Nathan
***** Much deserved. I like the way you get so much work out of a relatively small hammer. Judging from the colour, if correctly represented, it look like you work at only about 800-900c. Most people tend to go higher, but IMHO you tend to loose sight of the finish, literally. /ga
I do tend to work the correct colours for different processes as not everything benefits from a yellow heat, i try and take it in consideration in the process and wont forge but tidy when the colour goes past orange the colour isnt correct on the vids as i have to darken it on the camera to be able to see otherwise it just blows it out and goes that typical orange washout like a lot of vids here on youtube. something im trying to keep away from. its only a 1 & 3/4lb shoe turning hammer but ive had thousands upon thousands of hours practice with it so i know how it works and how it doesnt i only have one other hammer that i will use for bigger stuff but i only use that one for getting the mass down then go back to this one to complete it, as i can forge all day long with this and not get tired, real little whipper snapper it is lol
Very good work and well filmed. Up close and personal is good for these videos as you can see the subtle differences in hammer blows and how the metal is moving. You can't see that in a wide screen shot of the blacksmith doing his work. Very watchable, well done.
+Michael Clark thank you, have you checked the speed variations youtube does? you can slow it down and speed it up on parts that need a more careful eye, ive tailored the videos for use with that option, it works great!
Someone taught me so it seems a shame to keep all the knowledge, i love to share what i know and to recieve great feedback makes it all worthwhile. Cheers! Nathan
Yet another excellent video. You couldn't be more spot on about the importance of an even heat. I'm still learning and I've found you can real mess up a piece with overheating or heating too quickly. Thanks for posting!
no problem Jason, glad to hear you enjoyed it, using an even heat stops a lot of unwanted kinks, i shall be doing a scroll video soon as i love the way it looks on film, good to hear from you thanks a lot. N.B
amazing video. probably one of my favorites! your design has inspired me and i soon plan to make a "fire poker" in your honor, this would be very good for decoration... well... and for poking fire of course
Suddenly starting to find watching the process very therapeutic, an angular object transformed into a gentler, curvier, shape.. the handle reminiscent of a Nautilus Shell - Logarithmic spiral.
I did end up making a homemade forge and a railroad anvil.. Now i'm looking for some coal in my area. (i should post a vid of my first attempt at it.) Dhobskin
D Hobskin congrats on making the forge and anvil!! thats what i like to hear, im sure if you ask around you should be able to find a source. please do, let me know how you got on. Nathan
wish I could get a proper forge going. I am working out of my backyard on a piece of rail road track. I have so much I want to create, and feel so limited.
Its to keep the high pitched ring to a minimum as it helps to deaden the sound, as the vibration travels through the chain rather than to the points on the horn or heel. The same way if you knocked a dinner bell and held it to stop the sound. some people use magnets also. Usually the magnets under the horn or heel.
You should be able to twist 12mm square in the cold condition. Not that hot is wrong but you do need an even heat along the twist as you will know. Twisting cold ensures the twist is absolutely even. I grip 12mm square horizontally in a lowish bench vice (lower than your typical post vice) with the bit to be twisted protruding out the side. Grip it really tight in the vice. Slip a tube with a good but loose fit over the bit to be twisted and equal to the length of your twist. This helps stop kinking and snaking. Slide the twisting wrench up to the end of the tube. Support the far end on a stand. I have a stand made that suits the height of these vice jaws and is for this job alone, more or less. Make a chalk mark on the top face at the end. This is a witness mark so you can count the degree of twist. Get into the best seeming position for you and twist away. When your chalk mark comes back round to the top you have obviously twisted one whole turn - ie, 360 degrees. I found an old (but stout) 1/2" square female ratchet (half inch hole rather than male stub end), welded a 2nd handle at 180 degrees from the original (so the ratchet hole is now in the middle rather than one end) and I use this to twist. I may slip a further piece of pipe over one handle as an extension for more leverage. I can twist by clicks rather than a whole 90 degrees and stay in the best position. Neither do I have to remove the ratchet wrench till the job is done. You probably need such a device actually as an adjustable spanner jaw might well slip doing a cold twist. I usually hold the piece in the vice so it protrudes to the right. I slip the anti-kink tube in place, then the ratchet wrench, then place the support stand under the far right end. I then go round the other side and twist from there. The bench and vice is then to my right meaning my body is away from it. I'm right handed and so push down on the wrench with my right hand. The left hand is on the other handle as a steadying force. All the effort comes from the right arm and shoulder. Obviously the ratchet has to be put on the correct way so that the 'on' force suits your position. The 'off' position is the slipping (clicking) ratchet. Always have the 'on' position so you are pushing down. The support stand at the far end resists this force and as long as the vice is tight enough to resist slip at the other end, the bar will twist. The only obvious danger to this is that one day the ratchet may slip. Eventually with wear. It has once and I successfully repaired it. But I never grip the handle with a fist, only press on it with the palm and make sure that if it does go I won't be in a position to clang my hand or arm on anything, mainly the bench. Shorter twists are more dodgy because you are working closer up to the bench. Longer twists are no worries because you are standing in free space. You do need some strength but you should be able to triple twist (1080 degrees) a 12 inch length of twist on a cold 12mm bar. Ramble, ramble. sorry. Good video again. Very nice how you smoothly formed the scroll free-hand.
No i thank you greatly for sharing the info, this is what the comments are all for, i learned a few things from it and im sure many others will too, so cheers! i do it under heat for the main reason that i put it in a gas forge and work on others while its heating up so its quicker to heat it than cool it slowly so cant quench it as when quenched its a lot tougher to twist and i love how it looks and what it teaches the mind to remember when it is twisted hot, the straightening process of a twist just using hammer and anvil and eye to take it out without distorting it takes a lot of practice to get perfect, thats what i love about it the teasing of a straight line with something you cannot touch, its majic to me. Im used to making scrolls and its easy to make one, but a matching pair is the challenge freehand, theres another vid i did, its on my channel of a fishtail scroll all free hand too if you havent seen it. Thanks again dude Nathan
Cheers mate, I'll have a look. I know what you're saying. It's all good. You can never learn enough. I often make scrolls cold too! Light ones, up to say 20 x 5 flat bar, in scroll jigs Even smooth fishtails can be achieved cold on the anvil. Some use I am as a blacksmith, lol. If there isn't a fire lit and you only need a handful... I'm on coal as I said. Hot is most interesting though, as you've said.
New at this but I will try to make one today, easy to watch video covering all the crucial moves. I have a two burner gas forge and so far it seems impossible to burn anything. Even heat is something to keep an eye on because I do get into trouble scrolling. Thanks again for a great video. What's the weight on that hammer and where did you get it ?
Give it a go bud, you will enjoy it! Although its hard to burn the steel, scale on the other hand is a nightmare, hence the constant wire brushing before it goes back in the forge and when i take it out, its the only way i can keep on top of it. The hammer i use is a Jim Keith shoe turning hammer, 1 3/4lb in weight with a lovely 14 inch handle, i have grown to love it and do 99% of my work with it. Good luck Herb and have lots of fun! Thank you for watching. N.B
Thanks, made three 12" longer than yours and sold at an arts and crafts festival in Hot Springs, SD. Sorry about the slow comeback but we live in a tourist town in the Black Hills of South Dakota and have been way to busy for anything but forge work. Also bought a Hofi style hammer and it makes a big difference on arm fatigue. Brought in a coke forge but do not have it set up yet. The propane forge scales up everything and am constantly wire brushing.
Herb Ryan This is great news!! im glad you sold them! i have been looking at the hofi hammers and they seem to be loved by everyone that uses them, may have to invest one day, but i do love the one i use now so will be a big step. Did you get the coke forge up and running, i hate the scale that gas forges produce, like you im forever wire brushing. all the best dude! Nathan
Hey, awesome video man! I have one question as someone who hasn't started yet. I see in this video and on other blacksmith's videos where you bounce the hammer against the anvil sometimes instead of striking the metal. Is that intentional, such as to cool the hammer, or is it simply a mistake?
+Idiocity Incorporated its just an unconcious movement, like breathing is. it happens between blows either when im moving between anvil parts or turning either the hammer or the work. It just bounces off the anvil rather than putting it down to rest for that split second. just letting the hammer fall and do what it needs before the next blow, you will get a ton of answers, all different for the reason people do this, i just see it as an unconcious movement rather than holding the hammer in the air still ready for the next blow.
its only easy from practice, more you forge the easier you can make it look, um wire wheeling is using a wire wheel on a grinder, bench or hand it doesnt matter then going over it with a coating of refined beeswax the stuff you can buy for wooden furniture, just wipe it over with that then buff in once it dries. hope this helps Cheers Nathan
Thank you Keith, i do use a gas forge, just a single burner, if you watch my leaf video its at the start of it, great little forge it is. unfortunately i live in a smoke free zone so not allowed fires, but gotta make do with something
Thanks, once you get a coke fire going it would be fairly clean. I find the noise of a gas forge annoying, but on the + side you have great control of temperature, you never burn iron in it.*****
all i can advise is, keep it even heat, work it slow, bit by bit and dont hit it, but rather brush the steel. i did another video on a fishtail scroll that may be some use to you, its a lot easier to show than to explain for me, but keep practicing, i still learn every time i forge a scroll and i have made thousands so just keep at it brother and keep on forging! Have fun my friend
Just feed it through the fire and paint it. When you have a scroll place on top and bring the temp up. It's easy and I will show this on a video soon as it's a great subject!
there are different tricks you can do to take away noise from the anvil. Wrapping some chain around the base of the anvil helps. You can also put magnets on the anvil or hang something heavy on one of the sides.
In some of you videos when you taper you move from the base (closes to you) out to the point but in this video you moved from the point to the base. What is the reason for this or is there a reason at all? I'm asking because I have just started my self and am looking for any and all technical information.
+Jonathan Dowling good observation is that, glad to see you noticed. So if i start at the far end, the tip of the work i am usually putting a point on it or making it to a certain section in size, because this is a chisel point, i wanted to get the end to size then extend the taper towards me with a nice gradual taper with no way of seeing the transition between stock size and taper. Thats how that is done, ive got the end to size so i wont touch that again until i planish before scrolling. If im going from me, to the end then im usually just smashing the section down roughly to get it somewhere near the correct section needed, say the tongs for example, i will forge the ends first just so i know how far ive got to take the reigns. it gives me a section already there at the right size so if i have a bigger section on the rest of the bar i then have something to match to without constantly measuring how thick or wide the bar is. as long as i leave it alone. Does that make any sense? You will see in the next few videos where i will be making punches and chisels and other tapered to section tools and i will try to explain that a little better.
hi first thanks for the video, i know this video has some time so i hope you can see this message. i`m new to blacksmithing and i`m watching over and over to learn as much as i can. it takes time to program the muscle memory to do this and i`m having a hard time with my right wrist aching from an old injury so much after a day i can barely move it. can this work be done in a power hammer? or a fly press?. the other question i have is about the length of the taper to form a scroll, is there a relationship between the size of the scroll, the size of stock and the length of the taper? hope you have the time to answer if these questions are too basic please direct me to any book or resource where i can find this topic as i haven`t been able to do so. thanks again. pete
+thebrokenbone Hi Pete, firstly sorry to hear about the injury, a few tips i will give you to make it easier on the wrist, work it hot and put back in the fire at orange and dont work it colder unless finishing. another tip is, dont put the thumb on top the handle and make sure you have a comfortable handle, shape it to your grip and use the right weight hammer. For forging, this can be done on a power hammer or a fly press but the latter would take a fair bit of skill to use as you would be one handed doing so. No real relationship between scroll and stock size/length just one thing to note is, the longer the taper, the more graceful it looks, the thinner it is, the easier it will move, see my scroll video for a few more tips on this subject. If you want good books then please check out Mark Asperys series of blacksmithing books i cannot recommend them enough, they are not cheap but they are cheaper than buying a load of lesser quality books that wont give as much GREAT information as mark does. I try and answer everyone but they get lost within this site, and only surface now and then but it so happens i was on google home page when the notification showed up. Hope this helps in some way, and please feel free to ask any questions and as soon as i see them i will answer to the best of my knowledge. Cheers mate!
oh man you don`t know how much this means to me. thanks for all your advice. i will follow all of them and yes as the notification of your message appeared on the screen i was watching the fishtail video and that solved many additional questions i have. i often find myself with more questions once i find the answer to one. the road is long but i`m following so with great happiness. blacksmithing is a noble profession and i have not encountered any master of this trade that isn`t willing to help. thank you very much. appreciate. pete.
Pete, I don't know the nature of your wrist injury, or whether you're doing better with it since you last wrote this, but I have found that a brace called the Wrist Widget (it should easily come up on google) has helped me immensely. I never forge without wearing it, and it has helped me a lot. However, whether it will work for you will depend on what kind of injury you have.
+Cpt Lynx I personally use refined beeswax, like a paste, used for wooden furniture. i finish the piece and after wire wheeling with a grinder the work is still warm i rub it all over then leave to dry, buff it in then another coat and repeat but cold. It will give interior items a certain degree of protection but useless for outside items. The reason i use this method is to keep the colour of the steel as it is rather than darkening it. Hope that helped!
I cant make the next video on this but what i will do is, collect some info from others on how they also finish the products up as im not sure many do it as i do. and then make a vid on the different processes. What i will do for this, as its the way i know is the next item i make i will finish it in this way and do the full process including finishing fr you so you get to see it. In the knife making vid i use the same wax on the wooden handle as i do on my metalwork. it is not a product or finish that will last forever (even interior products) but its what i know. If i was to reccommend a finish it would be renaissance wax.
even if this video sucked i would hit the like button for the perfect selection of medieval music to set the ultimate blacksmithing mood.
Functional and exceptionally beautiful for a fireplace poker.
Watching you begin that scroll was the most satisfying thing ever. Thanks for sharing.
It was very relaxing to watch someone doing something worth while and constuctive
all i can say is that the music made me love your work a little more, i am a furniture maker but i love what you do, a true master piece, just to say something. simplicity equals the most beautiful, here is the most perfect example.
So simple and beautiful work. 🤩🤩🤩
it's almost crazy how much I've learned from this little film,thank you so much!
That's what i like to hear, Thank you!
In my opinion and you, mark asprey and peter ross move metal so efficiently with so little clean up. A class of itself.
Forgot to hit like when I first saw this 7yrs ago - Cheers Man!
Much appreciated 👍 have a great day
You are truly a master craftsman. The background music is hauntly beautiful. Nice job, Nathan.
Thanks Robert 😊 the composer is Adrian Von zeigler here on UA-cam, honestly go check out his music, it's absolutely incredible what he does. You won't be disappointed 😃
This has become my favourite forging video. Actually beautiful.
Despite the simplicity of the tool and the elementary techniques demonstrated, your work transcends all. This is perhaps the most elegant blacksmithing vid I've ever seen. You're truly an artist!
Olof Jansson Thank you so much Olaf very kind words indeed.
This is very therapeutic to watch.
Very nice video.. Very informational and very helpful video. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge on. Keep making. God bless.
This is one of my favorite forging videos. I see and feel from the video that you have great skill and sense of detail. Combined with Adrian's peaceful music it's just perfect. Keep forging mate, I'm looking forward to your future videos.
All the best!
Matthew
SKW Bushcraft Thank you Matthew for your kind words, haven't uploaded for a while due to sorting the workshop out and a few computer problems that has stopped me from editing but that's all fixed now so will have a few more videos up soon, more regular videos very soon.Thanks againNathan
Me too skw
Beautifull hammer tehnique. Lot of smiths doesnt know that. They just hit it like it is whorst enemy.
Спасибо, я даже расслабился немного, релакс все дела! Thank you for a great work and beautiful music👏
That is beautiful...simple & graceful. Well done, excellent work.
heardashot Cheers, give it a go!!
Nath, that is nothing short of beautifully masterful. The proportions are gorgeous!
wow, can't wait to try this out. I love the bird chirping in the background
Did you have a go? I knew i should have bought a budgie for the workshop, great sounds, please do check out the music producers channel, he makes some really great music. Thanks for watching Julia.
Wonderful video. I'm actually in the market for a poker and I came across your video. That is EXACTLY what I'm looking for! Just beautiful
Glad you liked it, one of my favourite videos this, i must do more in this style.
I've watched some of your newer videos and them came back to these ones. I didn't realize I'd seen your stuff before since you didn't narrate these ones.
Nathan, I was sure you were going to pull out a lovely scrolling jig. But no -- a beautifully uniform taper is the key to a natural scroll, it seems. Thanks for the lesson!
Very nice work and the filming is excellent. Thanks!
Such a nice even scroll, very nice. Appreciate the time to video and your style.
Thank you Crabbyfrog, check out my other videos if you get time, there is another on here where i make a fishtail scroll freehand you may enjoy.
All the best dude!
Nathan
Very nice work.
Harmony in the shape and top notch finish.
thank you galeanders, much appreciated
*****
Much deserved. I like the way you get so much work out of a relatively small hammer. Judging from the colour, if correctly represented, it look like you work at only about 800-900c. Most people tend to go higher, but IMHO you tend to loose sight of the finish, literally.
/ga
I do tend to work the correct colours for different processes as not everything benefits from a yellow heat,
i try and take it in consideration in the process and wont forge but tidy when the colour goes past orange
the colour isnt correct on the vids as i have to darken it on the camera to be able to see otherwise it just blows it out and goes that typical orange washout like a lot of vids here on youtube. something im trying to keep away from.
its only a 1 & 3/4lb shoe turning hammer but ive had thousands upon thousands of hours practice with it so i know how it works and how it doesnt
i only have one other hammer that i will use for bigger stuff but i only use that one for getting the mass down then go back to this one to complete it, as i can forge all day long with this and not get tired, real little whipper snapper it is lol
Very good work and well filmed. Up close and personal is good for these videos as you can see the subtle differences in hammer blows and how the metal is moving. You can't see that in a wide screen shot of the blacksmith doing his work. Very watchable, well done.
+Michael Clark thank you, have you checked the speed variations youtube does? you can slow it down and speed it up on parts that need a more careful eye, ive tailored the videos for use with that option, it works great!
No I haven't. I will check it out thanks
Great work and fantastic video. I love that you showed every step of the process. Thank you for sharing you're knowledge.
Someone taught me so it seems a shame to keep all the knowledge, i love to share what i know and to recieve great feedback makes it all worthwhile.
Cheers!
Nathan
Very good, well done, proportional and handy. It seems it would last forever.
I would have been proud to put my mark on that one, Good job
+hunter joe Id love to as well but at the mo, still dont have a makers mark... hmmmm new vid i think.
very nice work and lovely calm music instead of demonic head banging stuff which seems to be the norm with metalwork
Very good work of his Lord , I congratulate very delicate work and well done, I wish you luck from Argentina , very good
Very beautiful. I got a lot out of this video, thank you
thank you it went as i remember on the forge in metal smith shop!
That scroll was awesome.
what wonderful art!
Just beautiful, very nicely done.
Love the way you make your videos .
Yet another excellent video. You couldn't be more spot on about the importance of an even heat. I'm still learning and I've found you can real mess up a piece with overheating or heating too quickly. Thanks for posting!
no problem Jason, glad to hear you enjoyed it, using an even heat stops a lot of unwanted kinks, i shall be doing a scroll video soon as i love the way it looks on film, good to hear from you thanks a lot.
N.B
Nice work again and it a joy to watch
Thank
Thank you for watching dean!
amazing video. probably one of my favorites! your design has inspired me and i soon plan to make a "fire poker" in your honor, this would be very good for decoration...
well... and for poking fire of course
Beautiful work, just getting started and appreciate your effort, thanks!
Suddenly starting to find watching the process very therapeutic, an angular object transformed into a gentler, curvier, shape.. the handle reminiscent of a Nautilus Shell - Logarithmic spiral.
Thank you Mr Bruce, very kind words indeed.
Enjoyed your expertise.. Keep them coming.
give it a go D you will enjoy it, thanks for watching
I did end up making a homemade forge and a railroad anvil.. Now i'm looking for some coal in my area. (i should post a vid of my first attempt at it.) Dhobskin
D Hobskin
congrats on making the forge and anvil!! thats what i like to hear, im sure if you ask around you should be able to find a source. please do, let me know how you got on.
Nathan
good job. enjoyed every second of it
Cheers J! have a go yourself, they are great fun to make and sell really easily too!
great work and i admired your work.
Nice neat work, should have a makers mark. Thanks for sharing.
Stan Tilton Thank you stan, i havent yet got round to making one yet, soon though as you are right, i need one :)
Great and beautiful job!
Dude. This is awesome
Lovely job , what wax do you use to finish it ? Mick
This is beautiful work!
Thanking you Luke
Very nice work.
Cheers!
Man your work is awesome,very clean!
Thank you Zoran! cool name is that! clean work comes with practice and a high level of perfection in what i do.
Thanks for commenting.
Cheers!
Nathan
I knew that was Adrian's music!! you sir, have fine taste! beautiful work aswell :)
Allspark262 Eh hes good aint he, i listen to his work a lot and forge to it often. Thanks a lot man and thanks for watching!
New subscriber . . . that was truly amazing!
Very good!
Great work
Amazing! Nice Job!!
kind words elias, thank you
I enjoyed it very much thank you
Thats great to hear you enjoyed it, one of my favourite vids. Cheers!
Excellent video and a beautiful end product. What size bar did you start with?
Looks good ... Keep it up
Cheers James!
looks great
beautiful
wish I could get a proper forge going. I am working out of my backyard on a piece of rail road track. I have so much I want to create, and feel so limited.
Its a nice piece of work but if being used for tending a heating fire I would want it at least 30 inches long with a hook or barb on the end,
I like your work :)
awesone
Thank you!
Love it
that forge was in K C Ks. @ wyandotte hs in 1957.
Great work! love the music also who is the track from?
Forging a fire poker
cool, I've made one of these for myself but it's not as nice as yours.
I filmed it and have a video on my channel.
what sized bar stock is this?
Beautiful work , I was wondering I see alot of anvils and I always see chain wrapped around the base, Is there a reason for the chain .
Its to keep the high pitched ring to a minimum as it helps to deaden the sound, as the vibration travels through the chain rather than to the points on the horn or heel. The same way if you knocked a dinner bell and held it to stop the sound. some people use magnets also. Usually the magnets under the horn or heel.
what do you mean by 'dress' the sides?
You should be able to twist 12mm square in the cold condition. Not that hot is wrong but you do need an even heat along the twist as you will know. Twisting cold ensures the twist is absolutely even.
I grip 12mm square horizontally in a lowish bench vice (lower than your typical post vice) with the bit to be twisted protruding out the side. Grip it really tight in the vice. Slip a tube with a good but loose fit over the bit to be twisted and equal to the length of your twist. This helps stop kinking and snaking. Slide the twisting wrench up to the end of the tube. Support the far end on a stand. I have a stand made that suits the height of these vice jaws and is for this job alone, more or less.
Make a chalk mark on the top face at the end. This is a witness mark so you can count the degree of twist. Get into the best seeming position for you and twist away. When your chalk mark comes back round to the top you have obviously twisted one whole turn - ie, 360 degrees.
I found an old (but stout) 1/2" square female ratchet (half inch hole rather than male stub end), welded a 2nd handle at 180 degrees from the original (so the ratchet hole is now in the middle rather than one end) and I use this to twist. I may slip a further piece of pipe over one handle as an extension for more leverage. I can twist by clicks rather than a whole 90 degrees and stay in the best position. Neither do I have to remove the ratchet wrench till the job is done. You probably need such a device actually as an adjustable spanner jaw might well slip doing a cold twist.
I usually hold the piece in the vice so it protrudes to the right. I slip the anti-kink tube in place, then the ratchet wrench, then place the support stand under the far right end. I then go round the other side and twist from there. The bench and vice is then to my right meaning my body is away from it. I'm right handed and so push down on the wrench with my right hand. The left hand is on the other handle as a steadying force. All the effort comes from the right arm and shoulder.
Obviously the ratchet has to be put on the correct way so that the 'on' force suits your position. The 'off' position is the slipping (clicking) ratchet. Always have the 'on' position so you are pushing down. The support stand at the far end resists this force and as long as the vice is tight enough to resist slip at the other end, the bar will twist.
The only obvious danger to this is that one day the ratchet may slip. Eventually with wear. It has once and I successfully repaired it. But I never grip the handle with a fist, only press on it with the palm and make sure that if it does go I won't be in a position to clang my hand or arm on anything, mainly the bench. Shorter twists are more dodgy because you are working closer up to the bench. Longer twists are no worries because you are standing in free space.
You do need some strength but you should be able to triple twist (1080 degrees) a 12 inch length of twist on a cold 12mm bar.
Ramble, ramble. sorry. Good video again. Very nice how you smoothly formed the scroll free-hand.
No i thank you greatly for sharing the info, this is what the comments are all for, i learned a few things from it and im sure many others will too, so cheers! i do it under heat for the main reason that i put it in a gas forge and work on others while its heating up so its quicker to heat it than cool it slowly so cant quench it as when quenched its a lot tougher to twist and i love how it looks and what it teaches the mind to remember when it is twisted hot, the straightening process of a twist just using hammer and anvil and eye to take it out without distorting it takes a lot of practice to get perfect, thats what i love about it the teasing of a straight line with something you cannot touch, its majic to me.
Im used to making scrolls and its easy to make one, but a matching pair is the challenge freehand, theres another vid i did, its on my channel of a fishtail scroll all free hand too if you havent seen it.
Thanks again dude
Nathan
Cheers mate, I'll have a look.
I know what you're saying. It's all good. You can never learn enough.
I often make scrolls cold too! Light ones, up to say 20 x 5 flat bar, in scroll jigs Even smooth fishtails can be achieved cold on the anvil.
Some use I am as a blacksmith, lol. If there isn't a fire lit and you only need a handful... I'm on coal as I said.
Hot is most interesting though, as you've said.
New at this but I will try to make one today, easy to watch video covering all the crucial moves. I have a two burner gas forge and so far it seems impossible to burn anything. Even heat is something to keep an eye on because I do get into trouble scrolling. Thanks again for a great video. What's the weight on that hammer and where did you get it ?
Give it a go bud, you will enjoy it!
Although its hard to burn the steel, scale on the other hand is a nightmare, hence the constant wire brushing before it goes back in the forge and when i take it out, its the only way i can keep on top of it.
The hammer i use is a Jim Keith shoe turning hammer, 1 3/4lb in weight with a lovely 14 inch handle, i have grown to love it and do 99% of my work with it. Good luck Herb and have lots of fun!
Thank you for watching. N.B
how did you get on?
Thanks, made three 12" longer than yours and sold at an arts and crafts festival in Hot Springs, SD. Sorry about the slow comeback but we live in a tourist town in the Black Hills of South Dakota and have been way to busy for anything but forge work. Also bought a Hofi style hammer and it makes a big difference on arm fatigue. Brought in a coke forge but do not have it set up yet. The propane forge scales up everything and am constantly wire brushing.
Herb Ryan
This is great news!! im glad you sold them! i have been looking at the hofi hammers and they seem to be loved by everyone that uses them, may have to invest one day, but i do love the one i use now so will be a big step.
Did you get the coke forge up and running, i hate the scale that gas forges produce, like you im forever wire brushing.
all the best dude!
Nathan
Hey, awesome video man! I have one question as someone who hasn't started yet. I see in this video and on other blacksmith's videos where you bounce the hammer against the anvil sometimes instead of striking the metal. Is that intentional, such as to cool the hammer, or is it simply a mistake?
+Idiocity Incorporated its just an unconcious movement, like breathing is. it happens between blows either when im moving between anvil parts or turning either the hammer or the work. It just bounces off the anvil rather than putting it down to rest for that split second. just letting the hammer fall and do what it needs before the next blow, you will get a ton of answers, all different for the reason people do this, i just see it as an unconcious movement rather than holding the hammer in the air still ready for the next blow.
+workingwithiron Gotcha. Thanks man!
what did you use for steel
Just used mild steel.
You make it look so easy, I'm sure! What is wire wheeling and waxing?
its only easy from practice, more you forge the easier you can make it look, um wire wheeling is using a wire wheel on a grinder, bench or hand it doesnt matter then going over it with a coating of refined beeswax the stuff you can buy for wooden furniture, just wipe it over with that then buff in once it dries. hope this helps
Cheers
Nathan
Nice work, looking forward to seeing more videos. Are you using a gas forge?
Thank you Keith, i do use a gas forge, just a single burner, if you watch my leaf video its at the start of it, great little forge it is. unfortunately i live in a smoke free zone so not allowed fires, but gotta make do with something
Thanks, once you get a coke fire going it would be fairly clean. I find the noise of a gas forge annoying, but on the + side you have great control of temperature, you never burn iron in it.*****
Keith Armitage
i just turn the gas forge to the lowest setting when its up to temperature, that way its not a constant loud noise, just a little
Thanks was very helpful, i have tried scrolling but cant seen to get it round, any tips?
all i can advise is, keep it even heat, work it slow, bit by bit and dont hit it, but rather brush the steel. i did another video on a fishtail scroll that may be some use to you, its a lot easier to show than to explain for me, but keep practicing, i still learn every time i forge a scroll and i have made thousands so just keep at it brother and keep on forging!
Have fun my friend
Robbie Burnett How are you getting on with scrolling now Robbie? any better?
yea got the technique all down :) thanks for the help your videos are an inspiration
What weight hammer are u using?
2lb hammer
Cool
getting a even heat is hard with soled flue forge
Just feed it through the fire and paint it. When you have a scroll place on top and bring the temp up. It's easy and I will show this on a video soon as it's a great subject!
What material did you use for this? Size and grade?
only 1/2 inch or 12mm square bar, of mild steel. Hope this helps
***** Yes! Thank you very much :)
What size stock ?
Brad Kittle 12mm or half inch.
Good
Thanks for watching Karen
How is the anvil so quiet?
there are different tricks you can do to take away noise from the anvil. Wrapping some chain around the base of the anvil helps. You can also put magnets on the anvil or hang something heavy on one of the sides.
+Daniel Thu Thank you very much
Why the chain on the anvil?
Thank you
To Reduce the anvils ring, nothing more.
Thank you, love your work.
TheArtisans1
Thank YOU for your kind words
In some of you videos when you taper you move from the base (closes to you) out to the point but in this video you moved from the point to the base. What is the reason for this or is there a reason at all? I'm asking because I have just started my self and am looking for any and all technical information.
+Jonathan Dowling good observation is that, glad to see you noticed. So if i start at the far end, the tip of the work i am usually putting a point on it or making it to a certain section in size, because this is a chisel point, i wanted to get the end to size then extend the taper towards me with a nice gradual taper with no way of seeing the transition between stock size and taper. Thats how that is done, ive got the end to size so i wont touch that again until i planish before scrolling.
If im going from me, to the end then im usually just smashing the section down roughly to get it somewhere near the correct section needed, say the tongs for example, i will forge the ends first just so i know how far ive got to take the reigns. it gives me a section already there at the right size so if i have a bigger section on the rest of the bar i then have something to match to without constantly measuring how thick or wide the bar is. as long as i leave it alone.
Does that make any sense? You will see in the next few videos where i will be making punches and chisels and other tapered to section tools and i will try to explain that a little better.
+workingwithiron Thanks so much for the explanation. That makes perfect sense.
Jonathan Dowling
You are welcome my friend, thanks for watching!
hi first thanks for the video, i know this video has some time so i hope you can see this message. i`m new to blacksmithing and i`m watching over and over to learn as much as i can. it takes time to program the muscle memory to do this and i`m having a hard time with my right wrist aching from an old injury so much after a day i can barely move it. can this work be done in a power hammer? or a fly press?. the other question i have is about the length of the taper to form a scroll, is there a relationship between the size of the scroll, the size of stock and the length of the taper? hope you have the time to answer if these questions are too basic please direct me to any book or resource where i can find this topic as i haven`t been able to do so. thanks again. pete
+thebrokenbone Hi Pete, firstly sorry to hear about the injury, a few tips i will give you to make it easier on the wrist, work it hot and put back in the fire at orange and dont work it colder unless finishing. another tip is, dont put the thumb on top the handle and make sure you have a comfortable handle, shape it to your grip and use the right weight hammer.
For forging, this can be done on a power hammer or a fly press but the latter would take a fair bit of skill to use as you would be one handed doing so.
No real relationship between scroll and stock size/length just one thing to note is, the longer the taper, the more graceful it looks, the thinner it is, the easier it will move, see my scroll video for a few more tips on this subject.
If you want good books then please check out Mark Asperys series of blacksmithing books i cannot recommend them enough, they are not cheap but they are cheaper than buying a load of lesser quality books that wont give as much GREAT information as mark does.
I try and answer everyone but they get lost within this site, and only surface now and then but it so happens i was on google home page when the notification showed up.
Hope this helps in some way, and please feel free to ask any questions and as soon as i see them i will answer to the best of my knowledge.
Cheers mate!
oh man you don`t know how much this means to me. thanks for all your advice. i will follow all of them and yes as the notification of your message appeared on the screen i was watching the fishtail video and that solved many additional questions i have. i often find myself with more questions once i find the answer to one. the road is long but i`m following so with great happiness. blacksmithing is a noble profession and i have not encountered any master of this trade that isn`t willing to help. thank you very much. appreciate. pete.
Pete, I don't know the nature of your wrist injury, or whether you're doing better with it since you last wrote this, but I have found that a brace called the Wrist Widget (it should easily come up on google) has helped me immensely. I never forge without wearing it, and it has helped me a lot. However, whether it will work for you will depend on what kind of injury you have.
thanks! i`ll google it right now!
great work, Question: you mentioned waxing, what kind of wax and can you describe the process. New Black smith trying to learn :)
+Cpt Lynx I personally use refined beeswax, like a paste, used for wooden furniture. i finish the piece and after wire wheeling with a grinder the work is still warm i rub it all over then leave to dry, buff it in then another coat and repeat but cold. It will give interior items a certain degree of protection but useless for outside items. The reason i use this method is to keep the colour of the steel as it is rather than darkening it.
Hope that helped!
ty for the reply, can you make your next video on this? :D
I can't find anything else on the matter, almost like its a blacksmith secret O.o
I cant make the next video on this but what i will do is, collect some info from others on how they also finish the products up as im not sure many do it as i do. and then make a vid on the different processes. What i will do for this, as its the way i know is the next item i make i will finish it in this way and do the full process including finishing fr you so you get to see it.
In the knife making vid i use the same wax on the wooden handle as i do on my metalwork. it is not a product or finish that will last forever (even interior products) but its what i know. If i was to reccommend a finish it would be renaissance wax.
Very nice, tyvm. Keep up the beautiful work
Very very nice eh... Ü
Kinda short.???
You're
Very nice work.
Ricardo Mejia thank you my friend
What size material did you start with ... 1/2 inch?