I note you used max recuperation in the menu. I saw another video (apologies, i can't remember the channel) where he recommends the lowest level. The reason is that in auto, the car progressively and smoothly increases the regen depending on traffic ahead and the gradient. If you set the lowest level it apparently allows the car to set a wider range of regen. Effectively you gain extra virtual levels between coasting and the level above. If you are in level one, the car coast better but will still react the same when it detects a car ahead.
Brian, you've set me a target. Following other comments, I don't believe recirculation is a good idea as it results in a misted windscreen and therefore more energy used to clear it. Also, I believe i-pedal puts you in all wheel drive so that's a no-go too. I'll give auto regen and limited acceleration a go and let you know how I get on. Thanks for the info
Very useful video. I will get an EV6 soon (RWD version) and I am very excited about it. Seen one video in particular (in French language unfortunately) that suggested the best way to save energy was to constantly use the paddles manually, at least on the Renault Megane E Tech that has the same system. Basically level 0 when you maintain a constant speed to make the best use out of the kinetic energy. As soon as you need to brake, use the paddles to set your braking according to what you need at that moment. The aim is to anticipate and never brake more than what you need so you do not have to accelerate after it. One last suggestion that I would like to test is to set the speed limitator when driving downslope and accelerate to maximize the regen. Not sure if all of this works on the EV6 though but I will definitely try it out!
Cheers. I find the paddles too much of a faff so i use i-pedal up to 40mph then auto regen level 3 for the rest. As for the speed limiter i’ve never tried it. I should investigate it. Would have been very useful when i tested that GT😂
Nice video! The "most" efficient way is to drive in D, accelerate smoothly, coast much as possible and use normal break pedal to gradually to slow down
Hi Brian, very useful info. After adopting the settings you suggested I have seen a significant improvement in efficiency. 40 mile trip today (-1C) on Mway and A roads returned 4.02 m/kWh. Would have previously been about 3.2. Thanks again.
That's great to hear thank you.There's more to come from me on efficiently and climate control. I've been doing quite a bit of research so watch this space.
I also use Auto regen, but with sligh less then the max. If I need more brake, use the left hand to temporally increase the regen,.it's like using it like a break
Thanks again for more insightful information. The miles per kwh on my EV6 is currently around 2 so hopefully with your tips I can get this a little higher. My problem is I just enjoy driving it a little faster than is good for high mileage.
I guess the reason you got better consumption with i-Pedal compared to auto with all the stops was due to the auto regen not working below 6mph and having to use the mechanical brake to come to a stop. i-Pedal deceleration is stronger than level 3 auto, however if you hold the left paddle in auto, it applies max. deceleration while you hold the paddle. This is brilliant, as you can wring out max recuperation when needed without the all sluggishness you get with i-Pedal in Eco. This is great when approaching a roundabout as you can gently slow down as you look for a gap in the traffic. If there is a gap you go, but if not you can stop the car with the left paddle. You can of course modulate the deceleration in i Pedal with the brake pedal, but to me it's counter intuitive to have to compensate against the strong degeneration by pressing the accelerator. Have you tried this method?
I think i’ve worked through all methods since November 2021 but i can’t be bothered to use the paddles. As i always say what ever works for you personally use it. What is the maximum you’ve had on the GOM?
Yeah, I tried the manual levels but it takes to much concentration! I kept getting caught out in the wrong level. I tend to leave it in auto 3 and then hold the left paddle for a bit extra return when needed.
@@richielevy3821 Yes that’s the whole point. if you do it whilst monitoring energy screen you will see it’s eating a few kWh under climate and if you plug in OBD it’s running the climate. So ultimately the GOM will be incorrect with your range calc because it does not take this into account. It’s either a bug or a deliberate choice by Kia’s software designers.
@@evodessey I’ve noticed overall range drops when using the way I do and that’s why I put uses very little energy in my original post, but would love to know for sure if it’s more economical, less economical or the same. As for me I like to see 300 miles or as near to it.
Another very informative and as ever well produced video. The use of recirculation mode is recommended in the manual as it needs less energy to heat the warmer air in the car. Oddly yesterday I put it into that mode and noticed three times on a 30 minute journey that it has switched itself off ( or maybe I unintentionally touched something! )iPedal is my preferred mode in town, and since having the car only 6 weeks ago I have never felt the need to change from Eco mode except on a trip to Wales on the M4 when I used auto level 3.
Hi Roger i’ve searched high and low and cannot find any reference to using recirculation button doing anything in the manual apart from selecting fresh air/not fresh air. Can you provide page number please? I know pressing it starts heating but cannot find it documented. Checked UK & US version of manual.
@@evodessey Hi Brian, chapter 2 page 38 says..Tips for improving Distance to empty 僅 If you operate the air conditioner/ heater too much, the driving battery uses too much electricity. This may reduce the distance to empty. Therefore, it is recommended that you set the cabin temperature to 22 °C (72 °F) AUTO. ….. 僅 When the heater or air conditioning system is on the energy consumption is reduced if recirculation mode is selected instead of selecting the fresh mode. The fresh mode requires large amount of energy consumption as the outside air has to be re-heated or cooled. I must again say thanks for the videos you have made, they have presented so much useful information that give me and other EV 6 owners a lot more confidence in finding our way around a very sophisticated car!
Me too Auto 3 is same as level 3 I use Auto 0.25 (low auto recuperation) and left paddle pull to slow down for traffic lights and round about. Auto slows me down to the speed of the car front of me
A light right foot does wonders. By only moving a few millimeters up or down and using the hills to gain speed or to regen... I can drive long distances even when whe ln the trip starts and the estimate was lower than the distance of the trip. This with just a few minutes more added to to trip.
Great video Brian, I've found that having Drive mode- Braking option set to Sport instead or normal improves the regeneration alot under higher speed slow downs coming off A road and M way junctions, typically gains me an extra 2% of battery on my daily 45 mile journey.
I pedal forces the AWD to stay in AWD, so will have worse range than using any other regen level which allows the front motor gearbox to be disconnected from the drive shafts. So reducing friction loses etc
Wow over 5 M/kW I have never seen that on my car! Just last night collecting my takeaway meal it was showing 1.7, This morning after charging to 80% the distance showing was 135 mi.
if you have the AWD i-pedal uses both motors so the range will be decreased because you are always on AWD. Also on the information section on the screen, you can see the energy used by the motors and the regen as well, cheers
@@evodessey not on i-pedal, you can see it on the graphics under the information screen where you can see the power and the next page is the tire pressure
Great video. I have a Genesis GV60 (same underpinnings as EV6) and struggling with economy at the moment - definitely seems worse than my Tesla Model 3 was. It is ridiculous that iPedal switches off when changing direction.
@@evodessey On one of the discussion groups someone said that Genesis told them it was a safety thing. I don’t know if that’s true but I’d have thought switching OFF a setting that you’re expecting to still be in place is less safe than keeping it on. Hey ho - it looks like Tesla and Hyundai Motor Group software engineers all went to the same school.
17:24 I agree with you. For city driving iPedal isn't a bad option but on the highway it wastes too much energy since there is very little coasting. Even in regen levels 2 and 3 there is some amount of coasting which leads to better highway efficiency. What do you think about regen levels 2 and 3 compared to auto regen? When I get my EV6 I'll probably stick to L2 or L3 to have more control over the car compared to auto regen which will constantly be changing based on traffic conditions.
I have Autoregen set but with level 3 set. You can change it on the fly with the paddles & keep Autoregen enabled. It’s honestly the best of both worlds for me.
@@ArtiePenguin1 Set level will be blended with brake and also slow down the car without a vehicle being in front, auto regen will see a car in front with radar and regen brake for you.
@@evodessey Okay, I took a look at the manual (starting on page 6-15) and it didn't seem to mention any disadvantage to using one of the set levels over auto. But the manual is overall lacking in its description of the regen settings. I guess it's down to personal preference. Can you feel a difference between L2 or L3 and auto? It's also a bit confusing for me that you can have it at a set level and auto at the same time.
@@ArtiePenguin1 You can have it on auto and a set level at same time it just doesn’t show a level number. I can’t tell the difference between 2 & 3 but i do notice loss of efficiency. Yes the manual is crap i agree. When you get the car you will end up testing everything and finding what works best for you. Where you live also an an impact terrain wise.
Not sure if you mentioned it in the vid or comments (I'm at work and trying to keep it together) I believe the car also defaults to auto regen when you enable TACC/HDA
This guy also did some comparative tests. ua-cam.com/video/iT-vxU0qM8k/v-deo.html On the motorway he didn't find any difference between i-pedal, auto & level 1. In urban conditions however, auto won, followed by i-pedal, then level 1. This is probably because he tested an AWD version which uses both motors when in i-pedal. I'm not yet used to the very strong degeneration with i-pedal and will probably stick with auto. Another advantage is that the EV6 remembers auto mode but with i-pedal you have to keep re-setting i-pedal.
@@smartgrandad Today i came across a setting in Kia Connect that relates to what you require. I had a dig around the menus. It’s called travel mode. Setup-> Vehicle Settings-> Light-> Travel Mode (On/Off)
Very useful info Brian, thanks. I too find iPedal engages AWD permanently and doesn't work for main road driving but best around town, also hugely convenient. On long journeys and motorway I use cruise, why have to monitor your speed? I even use it in 20mph zones . Any idea what the rules are re: regen when cruise is engaged and does setting anything before engaging cruise make any difference?
Cheers. I have no details of the regen level it’s using in SCC but i do know it returns to i-pedal when you switch in & put of cruise. I would guess the recuperative braking setting in the menus would have an impact.
Seems AWD version have another bug, you drive in Eco mode but if you activate I pedal it will turn on both motors to maximize Regen, so your Eco mode is not effective, over ruled by i-pedal. Or so other claims, i have rwd.
Thanks for the video Brian. Do you know why the car GOM calculates a lower consumption than the App displays? Recently i was getting an average of about 3.7 according to the car, but the app claimed about 4.1
Some claim that driving without Cruise Control and constantly faffing with the paddles does increase range but personally i really can’t be arsed with all that.😂
It does in eco mode with AWD models if you are using i-pedal. The reason is that i-pedal forces the use of both motors, even in eco mode, but cruise control overrides that and drops you back in to RWD only.
Random question to this knowledgeable bunch - I recently changed to Intelligent Octopus for my energy. Suddenly my car won’t charge from my home charger. I get a message ‘unexpected vehicle status’. and the 4 progress charging lights by the charge plug flash all together. Charges fine at rapid charger. Trying a granny charge overnight to top up a few miles. Anyone else had this problem and if so, what’s the solution as my Kia garage don’t know!
I think Intelligent Octopus is still in Beta and so is the Kia interface link to the car. As i understand it it gives Octopus control of stopping & starting the charging to the car. I’ve already heard of others ending up with flat 12v batteries suspected to have been from IO status checking the car via telematics too often. Because it’s still in Beta i would expect some problems. I’ve stuck with Octopus Go for this very reason. Wish i knew more about it so i could help. I can do a channel post asking the question for you as that will get seen by all my subscribers Jackie if that will help?
I have an Ohme pro. They suggested changing some settings yesterday but no joy. Yes, still beta so I might switch back to Go if I am having these problems. Need to be able to charge at home! Yes please to a wider post. Thanks
@@evodessey the message comes up in the app notifications. Not sure if it also comes up in the car. Haven’t checked! It looks like it’s going to charge then after a few seconds the charge progress lights all start flashing and the app notification comes up.
Very useful, thank you for your interest and inputs. Much appreciated.
I note you used max recuperation in the menu. I saw another video (apologies, i can't remember the channel) where he recommends the lowest level. The reason is that in auto, the car progressively and smoothly increases the regen depending on traffic ahead and the gradient. If you set the lowest level it apparently allows the car to set a wider range of regen. Effectively you gain extra virtual levels between coasting and the level above. If you are in level one, the car coast better but will still react the same when it detects a car ahead.
It is a very informative video and I learned a lot from you. Thank you Brain.
Brian, you've set me a target. Following other comments, I don't believe recirculation is a good idea as it results in a misted windscreen and therefore more energy used to clear it. Also, I believe i-pedal puts you in all wheel drive so that's a no-go too. I'll give auto regen and limited acceleration a go and let you know how I get on. Thanks for the info
Very useful video. I will get an EV6 soon (RWD version) and I am very excited about it. Seen one video in particular (in French language unfortunately) that suggested the best way to save energy was to constantly use the paddles manually, at least on the Renault Megane E Tech that has the same system. Basically level 0 when you maintain a constant speed to make the best use out of the kinetic energy. As soon as you need to brake, use the paddles to set your braking according to what you need at that moment. The aim is to anticipate and never brake more than what you need so you do not have to accelerate after it. One last suggestion that I would like to test is to set the speed limitator when driving downslope and accelerate to maximize the regen. Not sure if all of this works on the EV6 though but I will definitely try it out!
Cheers. I find the paddles too much of a faff so i use i-pedal up to 40mph then auto regen level 3 for the rest. As for the speed limiter i’ve never tried it. I should investigate it. Would have been very useful when i tested that GT😂
Nice video! The "most" efficient way is to drive in D, accelerate smoothly, coast much as possible and use normal break pedal to gradually to slow down
Everyone in the comments seem to have a favoured method. What’s the maximum GOM range you’ve achieved by doing that?
Hi Brian, very useful info. After adopting the settings you suggested I have seen a significant improvement in efficiency. 40 mile trip today (-1C) on Mway and A roads returned 4.02 m/kWh. Would have previously been about 3.2. Thanks again.
That's great to hear thank you.There's more to come from me on efficiently and climate control. I've been doing quite a bit of research so watch this space.
Do you have a Heat Pump BTW?
No, 'fraid not. It's the cheap version for me....I am a Yorkshireman, after all.
@@neilconstable2544 😂heh that’s a really good result for the time of year.
Very informative video as always Brian, I will come back to this when I eventually get my EV6
Cheers. How long do you have to wait now?
@@evodessey 11 months so far and no sign of it.
@@micswee I know a lot of people who have been waiting a year who maybe getting theirs January/Feb next year.
I also use Auto regen, but with sligh less then the max.
If I need more brake, use the left hand to temporally increase the regen,.it's like using it like a break
Thanks again for more insightful information. The miles per kwh on my EV6 is currently around 2 so hopefully with your tips I can get this a little higher. My problem is I just enjoy driving it a little faster than is good for high mileage.
Cheers, i’ve been doing more investigations on the way the climate control behaves so i have more tips to come hopefully next week.
EV6 is a nice car, might have to pick one up.
I guess the reason you got better consumption with i-Pedal compared to auto with all the stops was due to the auto regen not working below 6mph and having to use the mechanical brake to come to a stop. i-Pedal deceleration is stronger than level 3 auto, however if you hold the left paddle in auto, it applies max. deceleration while you hold the paddle. This is brilliant, as you can wring out max recuperation when needed without the all sluggishness you get with i-Pedal in Eco. This is great when approaching a roundabout as you can gently slow down as you look for a gap in the traffic. If there is a gap you go, but if not you can stop the car with the left paddle. You can of course modulate the deceleration in i Pedal with the brake pedal, but to me it's counter intuitive to have to compensate against the strong degeneration by pressing the accelerator. Have you tried this method?
I think i’ve worked through all methods since November 2021 but i can’t be bothered to use the paddles. As i always say what ever works for you personally use it. What is the maximum you’ve had on the GOM?
Just hit 300 miles last week. It was the first long trip in a while since it's got warmer in Scotland.
Yeah, I tried the manual levels but it takes to much concentration! I kept getting caught out in the wrong level. I tend to leave it in auto 3 and then hold the left paddle for a bit extra return when needed.
Brian, I’ve found just turning on the air recirculation button and using the fan speed uses very little energy, but heats the car very nicely
Cheers, I’m aware of that because someone on here pointed it out. Have you also noticed that it does not adjust GOM range when you do this?
@@evodessey doesn’t affect gom for me
@@richielevy3821 Yes that’s the whole point. if you do it whilst monitoring energy screen you will see it’s eating a few kWh under climate and if you plug in OBD it’s running the climate. So ultimately the GOM will be incorrect with your range calc because it does not take this into account. It’s either a bug or a deliberate choice by Kia’s software designers.
@@evodessey I’ve noticed overall range drops when using the way I do and that’s why I put uses very little energy in my original post, but would love to know for sure if it’s more economical, less economical or the same. As for me I like to see 300 miles or as near to it.
Another very informative and as ever well produced video. The use of recirculation mode is recommended in the manual as it needs less energy to heat the warmer air in the car. Oddly yesterday I put it into that mode and noticed three times on a 30 minute journey that it has switched itself off ( or maybe I unintentionally touched something! )iPedal is my preferred mode in town, and since having the car only 6 weeks ago I have never felt the need to change from Eco mode except on a trip to Wales on the M4 when I used auto level 3.
Cheers, i need to dig through the manual since i’ve not visited it since properly since the end of last year…
Hi Roger i’ve searched high and low and cannot find any reference to using recirculation button doing anything in the manual apart from selecting fresh air/not fresh air. Can you provide page number please? I know pressing it starts heating but cannot find it documented. Checked UK & US version of manual.
@@evodessey Hi Brian, chapter 2 page 38 says..Tips for improving Distance to
empty
僅 If you operate the air conditioner/ heater too much, the driving battery uses too much electricity. This may reduce the distance to empty. Therefore, it is recommended that you set the cabin temperature to 22 °C (72 °F) AUTO. …..
僅 When the heater or air conditioning system is on the energy consumption is reduced if recirculation mode is selected instead of selecting the fresh mode. The fresh mode requires large amount of energy consumption as the outside air has to be re-heated or cooled.
I must again say thanks for the videos you have made, they have presented so much useful information that give me and other EV 6 owners a lot more confidence in finding our way around a very sophisticated car!
@@rogermullins9138 Thank you,found it at last. I think that little nugget belongs in the actual climate control section.😤
Me too
Auto 3 is same as level 3
I use Auto 0.25 (low auto recuperation) and left paddle pull to slow down for traffic lights and round about. Auto slows me down to the speed of the car front of me
A light right foot does wonders. By only moving a few millimeters up or down and using the hills to gain speed or to regen... I can drive long distances even when whe ln the trip starts and the estimate was lower than the distance of the trip.
This with just a few minutes more added to to trip.
Thanks Brian
I had missed the strong recuperation setting.... i hav now set it on. 😀
Great video Brian, I've found that having Drive mode- Braking option set to Sport instead or normal improves the regeneration alot under higher speed slow downs coming off A road and M way junctions, typically gains me an extra 2% of battery on my daily 45 mile journey.
Cheers. Nice one will have to try that. You are in a better position to test more often on your daily commute than i am.
I pedal forces the AWD to stay in AWD, so will have worse range than using any other regen level which allows the front motor gearbox to be disconnected from the drive shafts. So reducing friction loses etc
On AWD models I-pedal forces the use of both motors, even in eco mode, but cruise control overrides that and drops you back into RWD only.
Wow over 5 M/kW I have never seen that on my car! Just last night collecting my takeaway meal it was showing 1.7,
This morning after charging to 80% the distance showing was 135 mi.
if you have the AWD i-pedal uses both motors so the range will be decreased because you are always on AWD. Also on the information section on the screen, you can see the energy used by the motors and the regen as well, cheers
Good to know. I thought running in ECO mode decoupled one of the motors?
@@evodessey not on i-pedal, you can see it on the graphics under the information screen where you can see the power and the next page is the tire pressure
@@Takusman I need an AWD so that i know about these things😂👍
@@evodessey is your gt-line rwd? When I got mine the dealer just had that one in stock lol, the gt-line awd
@@Takusman Yes mine is RWD. I had it mainly for the economy & saving 3 grand.
Great video. I have a Genesis GV60 (same underpinnings as EV6) and struggling with economy at the moment - definitely seems worse than my Tesla Model 3 was. It is ridiculous that iPedal switches off when changing direction.
Cheers,yes as i mentioned in the video it caught me out. Had it a whole year and penny did not drop. Should be a sticky setting.
@@evodessey On one of the discussion groups someone said that Genesis told them it was a safety thing. I don’t know if that’s true but I’d have thought switching OFF a setting that you’re expecting to still be in place is less safe than keeping it on. Hey ho - it looks like Tesla and Hyundai Motor Group software engineers all went to the same school.
17:24 I agree with you. For city driving iPedal isn't a bad option but on the highway it wastes too much energy since there is very little coasting. Even in regen levels 2 and 3 there is some amount of coasting which leads to better highway efficiency.
What do you think about regen levels 2 and 3 compared to auto regen? When I get my EV6 I'll probably stick to L2 or L3 to have more control over the car compared to auto regen which will constantly be changing based on traffic conditions.
I have Autoregen set but with level 3 set. You can change it on the fly with the paddles & keep Autoregen enabled. It’s honestly the best of both worlds for me.
@@evodessey Hmm, that's interesting. What's the advantage of having auto regen on compared to just a set level?
@@ArtiePenguin1 Set level will be blended with brake and also slow down the car without a vehicle being in front, auto regen will see a car in front with radar and regen brake for you.
@@evodessey Okay, I took a look at the manual (starting on page 6-15) and it didn't seem to mention any disadvantage to using one of the set levels over auto. But the manual is overall lacking in its description of the regen settings.
I guess it's down to personal preference. Can you feel a difference between L2 or L3 and auto? It's also a bit confusing for me that you can have it at a set level and auto at the same time.
@@ArtiePenguin1 You can have it on auto and a set level at same time it just doesn’t show a level number. I can’t tell the difference between 2 & 3 but i do notice loss of efficiency. Yes the manual is crap i agree. When you get the car you will end up testing everything and finding what works best for you. Where you live also an an impact terrain wise.
Not sure if you mentioned it in the vid or comments (I'm at work and trying to keep it together)
I believe the car also defaults to auto regen when you enable TACC/HDA
Yes it does. Also reverts back to iPedal if you leave SCC/HDA until you go into reverse then it loses it.😂
This guy also did some comparative tests.
ua-cam.com/video/iT-vxU0qM8k/v-deo.html
On the motorway he didn't find any difference between i-pedal, auto & level 1. In urban conditions however, auto won, followed by i-pedal, then level 1. This is probably because he tested an AWD version which uses both motors when in i-pedal. I'm not yet used to the very strong degeneration with i-pedal and will probably stick with auto. Another advantage is that the EV6 remembers auto mode but with i-pedal you have to keep re-setting i-pedal.
Hi
I have a Swedish left hand drive ev6 and will driving to England. How do I switch the headlamp dipping?
Hi Alan ,MY22 manual suggests that it has an automatic system based on maps Page 8-34 of the manual.
Thanks. I will look it up, but I am sure you are right. Really helpful, informative videos.
@@smartgrandad Today i came across a setting in Kia Connect that relates to what you require. I had a dig around the menus. It’s called travel mode. Setup-> Vehicle Settings-> Light-> Travel Mode (On/Off)
Hi, I took a look at this, and it seems to be what I need. Will try it at the end of next week when we are in UK. Thanks
Very useful info Brian, thanks. I too find iPedal engages AWD permanently and doesn't work for main road driving but best around town, also hugely convenient. On long journeys and motorway I use cruise, why have to monitor your speed? I even use it in 20mph zones . Any idea what the rules are re: regen when cruise is engaged and does setting anything before engaging cruise make any difference?
Cheers. I have no details of the regen level it’s using in SCC but i do know it returns to i-pedal when you switch in & put of cruise. I would guess the recuperative braking setting in the menus would have an impact.
ON AWD models, I-pedal forces the use of both motors, even in eco mode, but cruise control overrides that and drops you back in to RWD only.
Seems AWD version have another bug, you drive in Eco mode but if you activate I pedal it will turn on both motors to maximize Regen, so your Eco mode is not effective, over ruled by i-pedal. Or so other claims, i have rwd.
I’ve heard that from other AWD drivers.
With AWD models, i-pedal forces the use of both motors, even in eco mode. However, cruise control overrides that and drops you back into RWD only.
Thanks for the video Brian. Do you know why the car GOM calculates a lower consumption than the App displays? Recently i was getting an average of about 3.7 according to the car, but the app claimed about 4.1
I think the App adds regen on or something like that. I've never quite gotten them to tie up
I've tried adding the recupe. kWh to the driving kWh to see if I come out with what the GOM displays, but it doesn't seem to balance. 🤔
Does cruise control help efficiency?
Some claim that driving without Cruise Control and constantly faffing with the paddles does increase range but personally i really can’t be arsed with all that.😂
It does in eco mode with AWD models if you are using i-pedal. The reason is that i-pedal forces the use of both motors, even in eco mode, but cruise control overrides that and drops you back in to RWD only.
Geees looks complicated
Do you need to go on an Kia education course to be able to use it 😂
Random question to this knowledgeable bunch - I recently changed to Intelligent Octopus for my energy. Suddenly my car won’t charge from my home charger. I get a message ‘unexpected vehicle status’. and the 4 progress charging lights by the charge plug flash all together. Charges fine at rapid charger. Trying a granny charge overnight to top up a few miles. Anyone else had this problem and if so, what’s the solution as my Kia garage don’t know!
I think Intelligent Octopus is still in Beta and so is the Kia interface link to the car. As i understand it it gives Octopus control of stopping & starting the charging to the car. I’ve already heard of others ending up with flat 12v batteries suspected to have been from IO status checking the car via telematics too often. Because it’s still in Beta i would expect some problems. I’ve stuck with Octopus Go for this very reason. Wish i knew more about it so i could help. I can do a channel post asking the question for you as that will get seen by all my subscribers Jackie if that will help?
What home charger do you have Jackie?
I have an Ohme pro. They suggested changing some settings yesterday but no joy. Yes, still beta so I might switch back to Go if I am having these problems. Need to be able to charge at home! Yes please to a wider post. Thanks
@@jackiejuniper1 Post done. Where does this message appear? does your Kia Connect App work normally?
@@evodessey the message comes up in the app notifications. Not sure if it also comes up in the car. Haven’t checked! It looks like it’s going to charge then after a few seconds the charge progress lights all start flashing and the app notification comes up.
Your steering wheel always made that noise when you turn
I don’t notice any noise…
I think it is when you move the hands over the steering wheel. The palms rubbing the wheel.
@@tobiasankreus6579 Some people pay for ASMR content like that😂😂😂
@@evodessey Is that so😅😅 Perhaps you can get a few extra bucks 😁
I have alternated between iPedal and Auto around town. Now using auto....I'll give iPedal a go again
Agree on long trips no to use iPedal
Yup, i think mix and match is what to do.