I just found you on UA-cam. You are truly professional. Next to Suzy Furrer, I have never seen anyone who can explain pattern drafting as well as the two of you. I have watched many videos on pattern making and haven found anything better than you and Suzy.
Hi Chris, with your instructions, I was able to make a skirt pattern that fit me. My next step is to make the bodice, with your videos. I can’t thank you enough for your videos, your instructions are easy to follow and very clear. Thanks, again!
Thanks again Chris, for yet another stellar drafting tutorial! Please consider doing one on drafting a skirt with a yoke waistline, or a video on drafting an 8 gored skirt. Everything you post is top notch & easy to follow. Thanks!
Hello Chris. You tutorial was eloquently clear, inspirational! I took a class long ,long time ago.... I needed a refreshing course. Unfortunately, I live far away from the nearest school. After watching some videos.. Your was the best! Thank you 😊
i have to tell you.......i have spent DAY'S looking for a drafting paten i could understand. and then i found you. Thank you for making a no nonsense video that was not fast full of numbers and was easy to understand. 5 days i have sat here looking and was about to give up. instead of giving up i went online and ordered myself a french curve and an angle ruler all so a few bits and bobs to help with my new to start journey on sewing clothes for the 1st time. i look forward to seeing any more videos that you want to share with us. Thank you. x
I've been working on a demonstration for pants. Unfortunately, I no longer have access to a dress form with legs. I may be able to talk a friend into modeling for me.
The most concise and instructive. My measurements are 42 40 42. So it is impossible for me to find a dress to fit. I’m going to attempt to follow your tutorials to manage this solution for myself.
Can I ask if it worked out for you? My daughter's measurements are almost the same as yours, and having only 1.5" difference between hip and waist before taking out the amount for darts... I just don't know how to accommodate for any darts at all.
@@bethh6527 I really wish I could answer you. I have not yet attempted this project as I’ve been busy with others. Perhaps asking the video instructor.. he can and will help you. Best of luck.
Hi Christ, i really enjoyed your double dart skirt tutorial. tried it out and had a perfect fit, but i wanted to dry out making a double dart dress by attaching the bodice to the skirt like in your blouse tutorial but got stuck because i realized the top had only one dart and i don't know how to draft the upper bodice with a double dart like that of the skirt. will be of great asistance if you can do a tutorial on how to draft a double dart dress. thank you.
Thank you! I'm actually able to follow your instructions! I really appreciate your time and effort in making these videos. I will be making my patterns following your lessons. Much appreciated! I'm new to sewing, and want to design and sew my own wardrobe from now on. I have a beautiful collection of vintage machines I've restored and a nice husqvarna anniversary edition machine I inherited from my aunt.
Can someone help me understand: we added ease to the waist and hip measurements then created the pattern from the total of the half hip & waist. Before I cut my sample, do I need to add the ease alongside my seam allowance addition too?
Many thanks for making this so simple and easy to follow! I am encouraged to try making a skirt for my daughter. I have a fabric in pure wool though,and it should probably be lined. I dont have the experience or proficiency to figure it out. Can one use this same draft to make the lining? Thank you for your patience in answering all the questions.
You can use the same pattern for the lining, unless there is a kick pleat at the back. For a skirt lining, the waist darts are often just pleated into the waistband rather than sewing them closed first.
i love your videos,i've learned a lot!the only problem,is it possible to mention in cm as well?i'm french and use the metric system,not imperial.i get confused whith these "1/4 in." and "3/4 of a fourth of 5 inches"!i'm afraid my patterns will be off because of the constant conversions.thank you so much for your videos.very proffessional and no extra talking.love it!
Hi Flora. I've tried to suggest metric measurements when possible, but the drafting procedure is the same regardless of which system you use. I'll try to mention both inches and centimeters in future videos.
Chris, I am a pear-shape and my “widest” point is actually the top of my thigh, not my hip. Around my rear/hip widest point is 3-4” above my thigh point (which is visually widest when viewed from the front.) How can I account for this in my sloper?
I absolutely love your tutorials. What would need to be done differently to accommodate a fuller tummy? And why are back darts wider than the front? Thanks again for sharing your wisdom.
The back darts are typically deeper than the front, because the female figure curves more in the back and is flatter in the front. If you have more tummy, then this would be an exception. Try making the front waist darts a little deeper.
@@christophersartorial7671 your tutorials are excellent. Question, You told this person with a fuller tummy to make her front darts wider but another person mention having a fuller tummy and you told her to shorten her front darts. That would mean she would also have to make them narrower, correct? So I am confused about which advice to follow for a fuller stomach.
@@donnaparker8343 I'm sorry for the confusion. Typically when you make a dart deeper (wider at the waist) you would also need to make it longer to avoid a dimple at the end. To accommodate a tummy you may have to shorten the front darts, as the fullest part of a tummy is usually somewhat high. Unfortunately, it's often a matter of testing. Start with the darts at the normal length for the front, then try the skirt on. If pulling across the tummy, rip the darts shorter and see if that improves the fit.
Sorry for the late reply. You'll subtract the waist measurement from the hip. The resulting amount you'll divide between how much you'll take out at the sides, and how much you'll take out in your darts.
Thank you Chris for sharing your expertise so succintly. I could not quite hear the amount by which you extended the dart lines (above the waistline) before using the French curve to curve-off the waistline. Did you say 1-inch? It didn't look that size. Thank you.
I've just watched the Double Dart Skirt Sloper, and there I heard one lengthens the dart lines slightly by 1/8-of-an-inch. I presume it's the same here? NOT one inch!!
Thanks much. I may eventually get around to showing a pant draft, however, pants are notoriously difficult, even for professionals. If I can successfully simplify the process, I'll do a demo.
Your tutorials are really good. Wanted to understand WHY 2 inch ease is added to hip as usually when we add an inch of ease is added to waist it is removed by adding dart, like we do in upper bodice making.
The waist of a skirt will typically have less ease than the hip. This is because the skirt will typically be sewn to a waistband, or to the waist of the bodice for a shirtwaist dress, which is often belted.
Hi Christopher, thank you very much for your wonderful tutorials. I habe a question concerning the drafting of the skirt. I have a swayback and I do not know how to adjust the pattern. I have another problem, I do not have a defined waist, I have a rectangular form, most of the time, I do not need any dart at the front piece. How can I move the front dart? Thank you very much in advance.
You can draft the skirt without a front dart while leaving darts in the back. You may need to shift the side seams slightly forward in order to keep the waist balanced front to back. For your swayback, it may be necessary to scoop the front waist slightly deeper than the back.
Christopher Sartorial Thank you very much för your advise. The challenge I have now is how to make a dress, which is a combination of the bodice and the skirt if I do not have a dart in front of the skirt pattern?
Christopher Sartorial Thank you very much for your answer. I will try it. Your tutorials are the best. Simple and understandable. Please keep making them. Greetings from Germany.
Thanks so much for the video. My top came out almost perfect. Now I'm working on my skirt. Thanks to you. My question is, do I need to cut an identical front and back for the skirt liner? Thanks in advance.
Yes, the skirt lining can be identical to the skirt pattern, only about 3/4" shorter. Also you may only need tucks around the waist of the lining instead of darts.
Trousers are particularly difficult for beginners, so I generally recommend that you start from an existing pattern and adjust it. I'm hoping to show a pattern draft soon though.
Thanks for your videos. They have been extremely helpful and cleared my confusion with pattern making. Do we calculate the difference between the waist and the hip before the ease is added or after? Looking forward to more videos from you. Please do princess dart
Hi I m beginner sweer. I dont understand the way we have To swee the back and the front. For me the back is on the left and we have To cut it twice. The front only once but the bargain is fold. I see a big dart on the Center back but not on my pattern
Hi Chris, I am watching video now....just one fast question. What were those markings in between the darts...I believe the calculation you used was 3.50 inches? Thanks
3 1/2" is what is left over after subtracting the dart widths from the difference between the waist and hip measurements. This amount is taken out at the side.
So if my waist is 12" smaller than my hip I can't wear a pencil skirt? I'm sad. Lol! I came to look for videos co's I need to make my own to suit my figure. I'm learning from books too.
I watched again and picked up the part I missed: hips wider than waist by 10+" will need double darts. That's what other sewing friends have said too. Thank you!
No, not necessarily. 8" is an average hip to waist measurement often used for a misses figure, which is what my dress form is. Different sizes (and different women) can have varying hip to waist lengths.
Chris, you are simply the best. Everything I have made from your tutorials have come out perfect. Appreciate you so much.
Thank you for this video! I’ve been looking for instructions on how to calculate darts for waistband. Your instructions are very clear😊
I just found you on UA-cam. You are truly professional. Next to Suzy Furrer, I have never seen anyone who can explain pattern drafting as well as the two of you. I have watched many videos on pattern making and haven found anything better than you and Suzy.
Kind of you. I'll look for here videos.
Hi Chris, with your instructions, I was able to make a skirt pattern that fit me. My next step is to make the bodice, with your videos. I can’t thank you enough for your videos, your instructions are easy to follow and very clear. Thanks, again!
Your tutorials are excellent. I just discovered your channel, and I hope you'll post again soon.
Thanks Lara. I hope to start again soon.
I can't get enough of your tutorials! Thank you ever so much! Can't wait to see how you do the double dart pattern.
You're totally awesome. I'm so glad i found your teachings. Thank you
this man has saved my life multiple times
I'm sure that's an exaggeration, but thanks.
Thanks again Chris, for yet another stellar drafting tutorial! Please consider doing one on drafting a skirt with a yoke waistline, or a video on drafting an 8 gored skirt. Everything you post is top notch & easy to follow. Thanks!
ua-cam.com/video/_G8YeznZXgA/v-deo.html
Fantastic!! All your tutorials are. Am learning a lot. God bless you.
Thanks Audrey. I appreciate it.
Hello Chris. You tutorial was eloquently clear, inspirational! I took a class long ,long time ago.... I needed a refreshing course. Unfortunately, I live far away from the nearest school. After watching some videos.. Your was the best! Thank you 😊
I'm glad you find it helpful.
Great teacher.Very clear.
Thank you so much Mr Christopher. I followed the steps and it came out perfect. Your videos are very helpful and you explain so well.
Love your videos. Very calm and easy to watch. Keep up the great work 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks. Stay tuned for more.
Thank you for being a great teacher.
Nice to hear. You're welcome.
@@christophersartorial7671 my bodice sloper fit perfect. I am grateful sir
@@glorinaluv I'm glad it worked for you.
i have to tell you.......i have spent DAY'S looking for a drafting paten i could understand. and then i found you. Thank you for making a no nonsense video that was not fast full of numbers and was easy to understand. 5 days i have sat here looking and was about to give up. instead of giving up i went online and ordered myself a french curve and an angle ruler all so a few bits and bobs to help with my new to start journey on sewing clothes for the 1st time. i look forward to seeing any more videos that you want to share with us. Thank you. x
Thanks for the kind words, Hazel.
Thanks Chris for this video and I’m glad to see u are back making videos. Can you possible do
a pant drafting video?
I've been working on a demonstration for pants. Unfortunately, I no longer have access to a dress form with legs. I may be able to talk a friend into modeling for me.
Christopher Sartorial that would to excellent if they agreed!
Thank you so much for these tutorials. At last something that makes sense to me!! Regards from Johannesburg, South Africa
Thanks Wolf. Are they measuring in in metric or imperial in South Africa?
@@christophersartorial7671 Metric in SA
Great video. Just wondering if there is any formulas to distribute the differences between waist and hip into the darts? Thanks
Excellent tutorial (s). I 💖 your videos and have learned so much since I started 👀 you. Thank you for sharing your talent.
I'm glad you are getting some benefit from them.
Hi Chris, thanks for your amazing tutorials. Have you managed to simplify pant drafting? If yes, please do a tutorial soon! Thanks again.
I'm still working it out. Hang in there. You might consider adjusting a store bought pattern, or rubbing off a pattern from a pant that fits you.
ua-cam.com/video/_G8YeznZXgA/v-deo.html
The most concise and instructive. My measurements are 42 40 42. So it is impossible for me to find a dress to fit. I’m going to attempt to follow your tutorials to manage this solution for myself.
Can I ask if it worked out for you? My daughter's measurements are almost the same as yours, and having only 1.5" difference between hip and waist before taking out the amount for darts... I just don't know how to accommodate for any darts at all.
@@bethh6527 I really wish I could answer you. I have not yet attempted this project as I’ve been busy with others.
Perhaps asking the video instructor.. he can and will help you. Best of luck.
Hi Christ, i really enjoyed your double dart skirt tutorial. tried it out and had a perfect fit, but i wanted to dry out making a double dart dress by attaching the bodice to the skirt like in your blouse tutorial but got stuck because i realized the top had only one dart and i don't know how to draft the upper bodice with a double dart like that of the skirt. will be of great asistance if you can do a tutorial on how to draft a double dart dress. thank you.
Thanks for a great tutorial. My fitted body sloper was perfect using it!
I'm glad it worked for you.
Thank you! I'm actually able to follow your instructions! I really appreciate your time and effort in making these videos. I will be making my patterns following your lessons. Much appreciated! I'm new to sewing, and want to design and sew my own wardrobe from now on. I have a beautiful collection of vintage machines I've restored and a nice husqvarna anniversary edition machine I inherited from my aunt.
For someone new to sewing you're taking on an ambitious project. I wish you the best of outcomes.
You are making best instructions ever!! THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! :)
Can someone help me understand: we added ease to the waist and hip measurements then created the pattern from the total of the half hip & waist.
Before I cut my sample, do I need to add the ease alongside my seam allowance addition too?
Hi! the ease, has to do with the fit only. You do need to add seam allowance!
Excellent. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, Sir. 💐👌👍👍👍
Many thanks for making this so simple and easy to follow! I am encouraged to try making a skirt for my daughter. I have a fabric in pure wool though,and it should probably be lined. I dont have the experience or proficiency to figure it out. Can one use this same draft to make the lining? Thank you for your patience in answering all the questions.
You can use the same pattern for the lining, unless there is a kick pleat at the back. For a skirt lining, the waist darts are often just pleated into the waistband rather than sewing them closed first.
ua-cam.com/video/_G8YeznZXgA/v-deo.html
i love your videos,i've learned a lot!the only problem,is it possible to mention in cm as well?i'm french and use the metric system,not imperial.i get confused whith these "1/4 in." and "3/4 of a fourth of 5 inches"!i'm afraid my patterns will be off because of the constant conversions.thank you so much for your videos.very proffessional and no extra talking.love it!
Hi Flora. I've tried to suggest metric measurements when possible, but the drafting procedure is the same regardless of which system you use. I'll try to mention both inches and centimeters in future videos.
Chris, I am a pear-shape and my “widest” point is actually the top of my thigh, not my hip. Around my rear/hip widest point is 3-4” above my thigh point (which is visually widest when viewed from the front.) How can I account for this in my sloper?
I absolutely love your tutorials. What would need to be done differently to accommodate a fuller tummy? And why are back darts wider than the front? Thanks again for sharing your wisdom.
The back darts are typically deeper than the front, because the female figure curves more in the back and is flatter in the front. If you have more tummy, then this would be an exception. Try making the front waist darts a little deeper.
@@christophersartorial7671 your tutorials are excellent. Question, You told this person with a fuller tummy to make her front darts wider but another person mention having a fuller tummy and you told her to shorten her front darts. That would mean she would also have to make them narrower, correct? So I am confused about which advice to follow for a fuller stomach.
@@donnaparker8343 I'm sorry for the confusion. Typically when you make a dart deeper (wider at the waist) you would also need to make it longer to avoid a dimple at the end. To accommodate a tummy you may have to shorten the front darts, as the fullest part of a tummy is usually somewhat high. Unfortunately, it's often a matter of testing. Start with the darts at the normal length for the front, then try the skirt on. If pulling across the tummy, rip the darts shorter and see if that improves the fit.
When I subtract 6:50, I'm left with minus inch. Help!
Sorry for the late reply. You'll subtract the waist measurement from the hip. The resulting amount you'll divide between how much you'll take out at the sides, and how much you'll take out in your darts.
Thank you Chris for sharing your expertise so succintly. I could not quite hear the amount by which you extended the dart lines (above the waistline) before using the French curve to curve-off the waistline. Did you say 1-inch? It didn't look that size. Thank you.
I've just watched the Double Dart Skirt Sloper, and there I heard one lengthens the dart lines slightly by 1/8-of-an-inch. I presume it's the same here? NOT one inch!!
can I ask if you were to make a gored skirt would you divide the pieces by say, 6 instead of 4?
6 panels would be the equivalent of a princess seamed skirt. A true gored skirt would have 8 or more.
Can I use this method for knit fabric?
Possibly, depending on how much stretch the knit fabric has. A knit skirt will not typically have wait darts.
What size is the dress form used in the video? I have the same measurements as the dress form and I am looking to buy one. Thanks
I had the dress form made to measure several years ago. It is approximately a size 6.
love you videos very much , very clear. Could you update more videos please?
Great teaching video. I enjoy watching you.
Thanks Chris. I enjoy doing them.
Thanks Chris for the ever amazing videos.please do a a womens trouser pattern too..pleeaaase
Thanks much. I may eventually get around to showing a pant draft, however, pants are notoriously difficult, even for professionals. If I can successfully simplify the process, I'll do a demo.
Your tutorials are really good. Wanted to understand WHY 2 inch ease is added to hip as usually when we add an inch of ease is added to waist it is removed by adding dart, like we do in upper bodice making.
The waist of a skirt will typically have less ease than the hip. This is because the skirt will typically be sewn to a waistband, or to the waist of the bodice for a shirtwaist dress, which is often belted.
Hi Christopher, thank you very much for your wonderful tutorials. I habe a question concerning the drafting of the skirt. I have a swayback and I do not know how to adjust the pattern. I have another problem, I do not have a defined waist, I have a rectangular form, most of the time, I do not need any dart at the front piece. How can I move the front dart? Thank you very much in advance.
You can draft the skirt without a front dart while leaving darts in the back. You may need to shift the side seams slightly forward in order to keep the waist balanced front to back. For your swayback, it may be necessary to scoop the front waist slightly deeper than the back.
Christopher Sartorial
Thank you very much för your advise. The challenge I have now is how to make a dress, which is a combination of the bodice and the skirt if I do not have a dart in front of the skirt pattern?
You can leave the waist dart out of the front dress pattern keeping only the bust dart, or add in a small waist dart in the front.
Christopher Sartorial
Thank you very much for your answer. I will try it. Your tutorials are the best. Simple and understandable. Please keep making them. Greetings from Germany.
Thank you Chris I was able to follow your pattern I’m going to try to get with my measurements
Let me know how it turns out.
Thank you Chris for this video. May I ask if seam allowances are to be added when cutting out the actual fabric.
Yes, I do not demonstrate adding seam allowances or hems. Add them according to your preferences.
Thanks so much for the video. My top came out almost perfect. Now I'm working on my skirt. Thanks to you. My question is, do I need to cut an identical front and back for the skirt liner? Thanks in advance.
Also Chris, can you show how to cut the back vent on the skirt? Thanks!
Yes, the skirt lining can be identical to the skirt pattern, only about 3/4" shorter. Also you may only need tucks around the waist of the lining instead of darts.
Christopher Sartorial Thanks a lot!
Hello sir... Follow your pattern making idea... All videos are good .. I want to learn women trouser pattern with measurements... Thank you...
Trousers are particularly difficult for beginners, so I generally recommend that you start from an existing pattern and adjust it. I'm hoping to show a pattern draft soon though.
Thanks for your videos. They have been extremely helpful and cleared my confusion with pattern making.
Do we calculate the difference between the waist and the hip before the ease is added or after?
Looking forward to more videos from you. Please do princess dart
Sorry for the late reply. Add ease to your measurements first, then calculate the difference between waist and hip.
This is incredibly helpful. Thank you!
Hi
I m beginner sweer.
I dont understand the way we have To swee the back and the front.
For me the back is on the left and we have To cut it twice. The front only once but the bargain is fold.
I see a big dart on the Center back but not on my pattern
Help me
This skirt sloper can be sewn with a seam in either the center front or the center back. The one without the seam will be cut on the fold.
Hi Chris, love the video. Will this work if you have a small tummy in the front, around the high hip area?
You may have to shorten the length of your darts, and adjust the curve at the side seam, but it should work well for you.
Hi Chris, I am watching video now....just one fast question. What were those markings in between the darts...I believe the calculation you used was 3.50 inches? Thanks
3 1/2" is what is left over after subtracting the dart widths from the difference between the waist and hip measurements. This amount is taken out at the side.
@@christophersartorial7671 Thank you so much Chris. I watched Part 2 and caught it......but much appreciate you answering me so quickly
Thanks for the video Chris....Just to confirm, single that is when Hip-Waist is less than 10 inches?
Generally that is correct. If your figure is more curvy, you may still find a single dart sloper useful as a basis for drafting other skirt styles.
This tutorial is very clear, thank you
Thank you posting.
What if the difference is 10.5?
In that case either should work for you. Would be a good idea to have both.
Or, another way of asking: how do I make the darts with 2" to spare?
Self Reply: I see equals 1/2" Silly me!!!
amazing tutorial.
Why aren’t you uploading anymore
Subscribed!!
Thank you!
ua-cam.com/video/_G8YeznZXgA/v-deo.html
Excellent thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much
its really helpful. thank u
very easy to follow video
So if my waist is 12" smaller than my hip I can't wear a pencil skirt? I'm sad. Lol! I came to look for videos co's I need to make my own to suit my figure. I'm learning from books too.
I watched again and picked up the part I missed: hips wider than waist by 10+" will need double darts. That's what other sewing friends have said too. Thank you!
Hi Angie. You can certainly wear a pencil skirt. Try the double dart sloper in part 2. It should fit you better.
Good morning mr. Chris 4 yours video pls. can u sen video of men shirt thx Walter
I'm hoping to show a man's shirt draft soon.
Hi may I know that the 8" hip length is for all sizes and height.
No, not necessarily. 8" is an average hip to waist measurement often used for a misses figure, which is what my dress form is. Different sizes (and different women) can have varying hip to waist lengths.
Thank you, sir.
thank you very much sir
Super sir i want crop top lehanga cutting tutorials
thanx so much
THANK YOU!!!!.
You are most welcome.
Thank u sir
You're very welcome.
1:30, 2:22
Still so confused….
🙋🏻🇬🇧👍
⚘⚘⚘⚘⚘
THANK YOU!