Model Railroad - Unitrack Feeders
Вставка
- Опубліковано 21 лип 2020
- Power problems are annoying and the easiest solution is to add more power feeders. But that can add up to a big price tag on larger layouts.
Today I show you how I wire my Kato Unitrack with home made feeders.
(N Scale) - Навчання та стиль
Magical!! Thanks for the tip. Just ordered my Kato tracks. You just saved me a TON of issues down the road. Thanks boss :)
Very clever! For people who can't solder this is a great way to make power feeders.
Very well explained and video how-to.
Great idea! Wireing without solder. Thanks!😊
Excellent shooting, editing, and explaining! I wish I had found this video years ago. Thank you.
Thanks! And your welcome! Lol
Like how recorded the session, short sweet, right to the point.
Thanks! I like watching short, sweet, to the point myself.
Awesome idea. My soldering skills are not great either, so that's definitely something I am going to try. Thanks for sharing :)
use the ksto uni track terminal # 24-818? my solder skills are horrible . Thanks
Thanks, I learned something today. Great idea. I was about to purchase a lot of terminals. Not now.
You should try recording audio book ….it was very soothing to hear your voice throughout this useful video!! 😄
Just like to say I have Kato N track. The way you made the terminal Joints was a very good idea. I have some trouble with some I made with Solder, mostly with eyes sight. That was cool from and old guy.
i had trouble with solder as well, i'm still new to soldering. I would end up putting too much and couldn't get the joiner back into the grey housing.
Excellent idea for wiring such track. Thanks for sharing this information.
Thanks for sharing.
On my layout I have power leads on each side of every turnout, cross and switch.
I use a very tiny soldering tip and solder wires to the metal connector on the kato connector making the same basic power connector that kato sells.
Trick is to put flux on the wire end, tin the wire (put solder on it) and then put flux on the connector and then you just place the wire in that slot and hit it with heat.
I killed a few connectors before I had it figured out.
I think I'll try your method the next time I add more track. I'll probably make a video of my solution as well.
I also have a video all people using kato track should watch. It is my video #0057 about beveling the track ends to limit derailments.
Check out my layout when you have time.
Thanks
Michelle
simply amazing!
Really helpful - particularly since my soldering skills leave much to be desired! Thanks for sharing
I e idol or you can just use the Kato uni joiner feeder wire pack nand cut off that white Kato plug at one end. Your method saves cash that's good. Thanks! Subscribed
I like that method. That makes me want start up a layout again.
Amazing thanks for the video
Great detail and methods
Thanks
Brilliant! Certainly will save some $$'s instead of getting those pre-wired connectors from KATO! Many thanks! Earned my sub!
Just seen this - brilliant! Thanks for sharing.
Great video, really well done on the explaining!
Thanks man.
Excellent video. Great suggestion.
Should do blue and white,blends in with original joiners
Great tip. Thanks
Great tip, thanks for sharing!
No problem!
That was very informative indeed. Cheers!
One of the most valuable videos I've seen, and I've seen a lot. (138 videos on Rocks alone!) Never mind Unitrack. Your videos are getting your own library and being added to the contextual library. I'm just finishing up the first part of the layout - 35' dog bone looped back on itself with a trestle on a hollow core (self built-I couldn't find a 32" wide around me which is weird since I live 20mi north of NYC)
Nothing anchored down and only 2 of the Kato feeders. I just soldered my first joiner before going on this vacation. I was psyched to get back and get the iron hot-then I see this. Now I'm psyched to get back and start bending wire and drilling. I'm curious as to why you don't use a smaller bit, fish a coat hanger wire (or a stripped 14ga solid core) up through the hole then pull the feeder back down through it. I haven't tried it yet - maybe it's too much of a PITA when you consider the 2" of foam... .
I used that bit size so my wires had some wiggle room while a moved the track until it's glued down.
@@daguy8151 I see wisdom there. I'll take it under advisement...
1:02 and I've already learned something! I've always wondered what that tool does besides having a rail width gauge.
I thought that was the only thing it was for. I never noticed the notches fit the track lol
Thx awesome video and information...
I use Atlas code 100 track. I also make my own track connectors by placing a re-railer upside down and cut my wire pairs to length, about 22 to 24 inches in length.. Then I solder the precut wires to the bottom of the rail joiners which are pushed onto the upside down re-railer. It takes about 2 minutes for each and I can do several in one evening. If you were to buy them they run around $5 for two. Quite expensive when wiring up a large model railroad.
Great tip thanks!
Pure genius
thanks! it's a lot faster than soldering every piece.
Phenomenal!!!
Thanks, great idea...I have been trying to purchase the Uni connectors per wired but they are scarce right now and if available very expensive.
I ran into the same problem last year lol
Could u just do this all through out the whole entire layout?
Where was this video 2months ago when i was figuring out how to wire my track! Eh that's fine, I'll try this out anyway as I need to add more power to parts of my layout.
I thought the same thing lol. So I decided to make one. I powered half my layout with the powered unijoiners and that was way to expensive.
excellent!!!!!
I like your connection method, I have been looking for a way to do the same. Going to try your method.
thank you for the video great idea clean solution ...does this method ever create a hight difference of the top of the track at the joint? i suppose you could file to get a seamless smooth go across at the junction for the train so not to derail.. great money saver as we all know model train hobby are not a poor man's hobby when you start expanding and adding top-notch trains and equipment always helps to save on the bank account funds
It did change the height on a few joiners but I would just press the wire down with a small flat head screw driver. If that didn't work then i re-bent the wire and that worked.
Great video and thanks for sharing. How much track can you run before losing power? I’m pre-planning my first layout.
If you mean track length before a power drop then about 12 to 15 feet. It honestly depends on how straight the unitrack is. More sections means more "curve" since it extremely hard to have huge sections perfectly flush against the previous track piece
Excellent video and great practical and cost-effective solution for layouts. I'm still learning the KATO system, so this was a timely find. I'm assuming it works the same for HO...same wire guage?
it works the same but the gauges might be different. stock kato connectors are for n/h so using the same gauge should work but you might need to make the loop slightly wider for good contact.
Thanks for you help!! Quick question though, what roundhouse is that?
N scale atlas roundhouse. And the turntable is atlas as well with the noisy motor option purchased seperately
Great video thanks! What gauge wire are you using for your bus lines under the table? I bought a bunch of of the pre-built kato terminal unijoiners and am looking at ways to get them all hooked up into one line.
i run a 12 gauge wire under the entire layout.
@@daguy8151 Awesome thank you!
Fantastic video? Do you sell these by any chance?
Thanks! And no I don't. But their so simple to make it literally costs pennies.
I really appreciate your video. I am an old beginner on Kato. I've read that you must get the polarity right on your layout or you'll have a short. How can I know if I make right connections with the new track feeders attached? I 'm a little nervous about electrical wiring. I appreciate your advice and how to save on a budget.
Easiest way I do it is one color for the left rail and another color for the right on the whole layout. Plus most control units will beep or flash if there's a short detected so you'll know if you got something mixed up.
Does a Kato power pack have such warning indicator because l don't see one on mine ? I thank you for your help and reply.
@@michaelcipres4228 yes. it has an indicator light. if it's red it means there's a short. Green is good to go.
How are these joiners working for you? Have you had any issues at all? Or has it been smooth sailing? Have you had to replace any?
I’m soldering but I am a beginner and it’s going ok but some not ok. To much solder to little solder. I have the same wire and would like to try this method.
All of the joiners I made using this method have worked flawlessly. Never had to replace any as well.
The only thing I need to mind is making a bend in the wires under the table or making the wires tight and stapling everything down. Because they are stiff wires sometimes the track moves around until it's secured.
Good to know, thank you!
I can't get 22 gauge solid wire to fit through the plastic track connector, I don't see how you can be using 20 gauge? Are you sure? I was really hoping to use this as I can't solder.
Do you think a little dab of hot glue would keep smaller wire more secure - I am using 23 g
I believe it would work as long as there is wire to metal contact. Maybe put a few folds of wire on the end to make tension and glue after you know there's contact.
Very helpful! Do you (or anyone else here) know if this works with Kato HO Scale Unitrack joiners? Please let me know. Thank you. :)
The unitrack joiners fit both HO and N Scale
What's a bus wire for and can I use like the nce dcc system with this
What do you use or recommend to power ya train track layout?
i use a digitrax zephyr to power my layout.
素晴らしい映像ですね、お見事です、チャンネル登録しました、ご確認ください。
What size wire do you use
Bell wire. So I believe 18 Guage? Don't remember exactly.
@@daguy8151 thank you
Buy real track made for adults and solder it together.
And you should stop playing with toys