Ballasting Kato Unitrack
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- Опубліковано 26 лип 2024
- In this video, I show you how I apply ballast to my Kato Unitrack. I hope you find the information in this video to be helpful, whether you use Kato track on your layout or any other brand of track.
Thank you for the video. Very helpful and well done. You are a natural teacher.
A big thanks to you for sharing. You've sold me on Kato Unitrack. Looks like THE way to go. I just bought my first packages of it and think I'll be much happier with this than "old school" cork roadbed and flex track like I've used most of my life,
Thanks, Rich. That's great news. I think you will be happy with the Kato track, because I know I am. No more bending, cutting, and soldering for me. Let me know how the Kato track works out for you. ...Roy
Roy great tutorial, I am currently almost done ballasting. Great tips I have used this method combined with the more traditional ballasting methods. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Roy great tips and I find your voice soothing
Roy loved the detail in your instructions in ballasting. Thanks. Dean from Minnesota
Well done sir :)
Hello Roy, writing a Blog on this very subject here in the UK. Your video was very informative and helpful, thanks for posting.
Thank you for this technique. When I switch to Kato track, this video helped me out a ton. You've inspired me to start my own youtube channel! These are awesome videos!
It's a real pleasure to share the technique with you, Jimmy. I'm a big believer in Kato Unitrack, and no one has ever told me that they switched from Kato track back to flex track. I really believe it looks as good as any other track once you paint and ballast it. ...Roy
I love number 9❤! Thanks for sharing Roy.
I'm glad I saved this video now that I've started ballasting.
Your talent and patience result in a great looking layout.
Beautiful!
excellent work , my Husband has KATO HO track and will use your advice - thankyou so much for this
Thank you, Marcie. I'm glad it was helpful. ...Roy
Looks great! Seriously.. 👍
Roy, I watched this video on applying ballast to your Kato Unitrack for a second time today. I did this specifically because I am planning to begin a ballasting project on my O-Scale layout which utilizes Lionel Fastrack. Since Lionel's Fastrack is similar in design to Kato N-Scale Unitrack your techniques should work very well for me. I too am not ballasting between the rails because I feel like that will just invite problems "down-the-road" and the intent of the project is to give my layout a neater, finished appearance. Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to post these videos. I know how much production effort goes into making them possible.
With warm regards,
Larry W. Grant
Dallas, Texas
Thank you for watching and commenting, Larry. I really appreciate it. I've never used Lionel Fastback, but based on what you've said, it sounds like the Kato technique should work on it. I am very pleased with the results I achieved. A number of guys complain about the appearance of Kato track, but I think it looks as good as any other brand of track once you paint and ballast it. ...Roy
Thanks Roy.. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work.. Lance
Thanks for watching and commenting, Lance. ...Roy
I use basically the same procedure with Kato as well as Bachmann track. The only difference being that I generally use scenic cement rather than diluted white glue for the second and subsequent layers of ballast. Also on the Bachmann track I do apply ballast between the rails as the ties protrude further than the Kato. Be especially careful around turnouts to keep the scenic cement or diluted white glue from running inside the turnout mechanism or you'll end up with a poorly operating turnout.
+David Rarig You're absolutely right about not letting any glue or ballast get down inside either of the two openings in the Kato turnouts. If that happens, the turnouts will no longer work well, if at all. That's why I always cover those openings with blue painter's tape or masking tape.
My layout is Peco code 55 Flex Track but my Test layout I'm currently working on is half Kato. Not sure if I'm going to ballast the Kato or not as I may decide to replace it. In any case, I start the same way you have, applying white glue to the sides and sprinkling on ballast, letting it dry and vacuuming up loose stuff. I use a small handheld vacuum for that which lets me reclaim the loose ballast. Then I follow what Model Railroading does and ballast the centre which spills over to the edges. I take my time to get the centre no higher than tie height as well the edges and then use a foam brush to form my outsides. From there I use a mixture of 50% alcohol and water (or 10% alcohol and 90% water) to gently wet it all down (I use a syringe). From this point until dry, you can't touch the ballast, no attempts to form it or anything or you'll just get a gigantic mess. Anyway, after wetting it, I use Scenic Cement and give it a god soaking and let it dry. If I need more applications of ballast to get the shape I want I'll again apply it dry, form it, apply wet water and Scenic cement. When I like it, I take a piece of wood (1X2 that I've cut grooves in to fit over the track) and use it to clean off any ballast from the tops of the ties. The end of the piece of wood just reaches to the tie tops so running it back and forth it'll catch any high spots and clean them off. I go over the entire inside of the track and pick off any ballast on the inside web. Oh and at the start I sprayed all the track and sides with an air brush. Anyway, now that I've got it pretty much done, I take a wash that is mostly burnt sienna but a bit of black in there as well (water and alcohol), very dilute and dribble it down the middle of the track, high enough that it floods the sides of the track (I'm going to follow your suggestion and put a bit of white glue in next time). I also dribble that down the outside of the track as I want that rust look. For cleaning the track, I start with a short piece of 1X2 and rub the edge of it on the top of the track. Takes the paint off. Then follow with a bright boy, then vacuum up anything left, then a rag and commercial "track cleaner" or ATF. Finally, time to run trains.
+Don Martin Thank you for sharing your techniques, Don. One of the best things about the hobby is how we model railroaders enjoy sharing with each other what we have learned from our experience. Many will benefit from your tips. Way back in the mid-1980s, I built an N-scale layout using Atlas flex track and Peco turnouts. On that layout, I used the traditional method of ballasting, which begins by first spreading and shaping dry ballast over the track, applying alcohol or "wet" water, and then applying glue. On my current N-scale layout, I'm using Kato track and quickly discovered that the traditional method of ballasting wouldn't work, especially because of Kato's plastic roadbed and shallow ties. So I turned to the method described in the video. Like you, I use a small vacuum to clean up any loose ballast and reclaim it for subsequent applications.
Roy, There are numerous videos as well as many of my modelling buddies that swear to NEVER use a bright boy on rail as it is abrasive and will inplant micro scratches into the rail heads that catch dirt and reduce conductivity.
Bob S
You're absolutely right about Bright Boys, Robert. Some time ago, I stopped using them on my track, except for small, really tough cleaning jobs. Now I use mineral spirits for cleaning. ...Roy
Ballasting, wiring. It is all part of being able to do what I like to do, in the time frame I like. There are no deadlines (well, maybe some self imposed ones if you chose) so I can take 5 hours to do something the way I want it instead of only being able to allocate an hour and having to rush through it. On Saturday I built a couple of turnouts, on Sunday I plan to build a coupler more but decided to relax and do nothing (well, watch Magnum PI movies with the wife) I can build the turnouts some other time. That's my point, I get to do what I want, when I want.
And, once I retire in a year and a I bit I should be able to chose even better.
I did a small layout many years ago with Kato track. I definitely remember having issues trying to put ballast down the traditional way. I had glue flowing everywhere and ended up losing a few turnouts because of it. For my current layout I'm using ME Code 55 track but I think I will give this method a try when I reach that point. Yes it probably does take a little longer but I think you had much less issues in the end because you really are controlling the glue instead of just spraying it everywhere. ~Neil
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and experiences on the subject of ballasting Kato and other brands of track. I believe you are absolutely right when you suggest that controlling the application of glue is the secret of success in ballasting. ...Roy
Hi Roy,
Thanks for the great videos and this tutorial. I am starting my first layout, ever, and will use Kato track.
Please tell me about the ballast "height" issue. I will have sections of track which will be mostly bare, except for the track and ballast. This means I won't be able to conceal the out-of-scale height of the ballast which you suggest could be a problem.
Can you give me any tips or suggestions on how to handle this, which do not include "add vegetation?"
Thank you!
Great demonstration Roy.. Yes looks very time consuming with great results. Ron//
I'm very pleased with the results, Ron. For me, Kato Unitrack has proven to be very reliable and very convenient. Like other brands of track, it just needs to be painted and ballasted to look very realistic. ...Roy
Another great video! Thanks for the ballasting tips. When it came to painting the sides of your track, What were you able to do when you were paint your turnouts? Also, were you able to paint the insides of track and turnouts?
+MWRR R Yes, I did paint my turnouts, but I did so very gently and lightly and only after covering both openings found in Kato turnouts with painter's tape or masking tape. (I covered those same openings again when applying ballast, so that I would not get any glue or ballast down inside those openings.) I used a micro brush to paint the outside and inside of the turnout rails, carefully avoiding contact points. Afterward, I carefully cleaned the tops of the turnout rails. I must tell you: I was very concerned about painting the turnouts and left them go until the last part of track painting. But so far, I have not had a single electrical problem (or any other kind of problem) after painting and ballasting the Kato turnouts. The paint did not get down into the rail joiners, and thus did not cut off the flow of current in the rails. By the way, I painted the rails, ties, and plastic Kato ballast all the same dark gray color, and later on, I used a dark gray ballast to match the prototype I am modeling.
Thanks for the info. Actually it looks pretty good just painted. I think I'll just airbrush it and call it good.
Roy, two questions:
1. Why latex and not acrylic for painting the track?
2. This video is 4 years old. Would you make any changes to this method?
Thank you.
Ken Florian
Great video. Clear and concise. Please tell me what brand and color your ballast is. (I can’t seem to find dark grey ballast.). Thanks very much.
Alix, I use Woodland Scenics fine gray ballast (#B1375). After the ballast has dried, I apply a very thin wash of dark gray paint to it, to more closely replicate the color of the ballast in the area that I'm modeling. ...Roy
hi Roy a dab of white vinegar on where you want to take off the glued down ballast works wonders, after 5 mins of applying the white vinegar the ballast comes of easily.
Thanks for the idea of using vinegar, Clayton. I never heard of that before. I'm going to try it the next time I need to move or remove track that I've already ballasted. ...Roy
Roy, can you say more about your decision to not put unglued ballast between the rails? Putting a light dusting, unglued, and swept to be level with the ties, seems like a useful additional visual element.
Kato. Nice smooth running. brilliant. However when going for realistic, the ballast bed is already bigger. Don't be afraid to use an airbrush and paint
certain area's. Ballasting switch track's, nightmare begins. however bring the level of the terrain up so you reduce the area needed for ballast. " Gordan Ramsey of railroads"
Can you use acrylic paint instead?
I wish Kato made two types of track, their traditional track where the plastic roadbed is to the tops of ties and a track that is similar to Bachmann track where the entire tie is above the plastic roadbed just with kato's great quality.
That would be nice, because it would allow us to apply ballast the top of the plastic roadbed more effectively. Right now, that's difficult to do, because the ties are so deeply imbedded that there isn't space for ballast. I also wish Kato would make curved turnouts. ...Roy
N-Scale Union Pacific Evanston Subdivision yes I completely agree if they made that easy ballast track if you will and curved turnouts I would have probably used Kato track on my layout.
Great video Roy. As always :) What do you use to stick your track to the board?
slapshot2k Thanks. In the past, I glued my Kato Unitrack down with a dab of hot glue every foot or so, along the plastic roadbed. Now I use liquid silicon glue. It’s essentiially the same glue, but I no longer have to burn my fingers. ...Roy
@@n-scaleunionpacificevansto6569 Thanks Roy :)
Did you paint the roadbed and ties in between the rails too?
Yes, I painted everything a dark gray color, Tony. ...Roy
Is the reason you use Latex Paint mainly for Ease of Application and Better Dispersion?
Does this also work with ballasted fleischmann n scale track?
I've never used Fleischmann track, so I can't speak from personal experience. But it looks like this ballasting technique will work. It's certainly worth trying. ...Roy
Yes, Fleischman is the original pre-ballasted track. Fleischmann came out in the early 1970's it's great track.
I like this video, but I will tell you, ballasting is my #1 hated task to do. I'm pretty good at it, just hate doing it.
What size curves are those on you eastern helix??
It's Kato super-elevated double track no. 20-181. The radius of the outer track is 16 and 3/8" and the inner track is 15". I really like this track and the way the diesels lean in the curves. ...Roy
+N-Scale Union Pacific Evanston Subdivision cool thank you
Roy was the track fasten d own before you started ballasting? If so what did you use to fasten down the track
Yes, Kenneth, I fastened the track down before painting and then ballasting it. To fasten it down, I use just a drop of liquid sulicon glue along the edge of the plastic roadbed every foot or so. I do not weight the track down. Rather, I let it “float” in its natural podition. The glue in the ballast holds the ballast in it permanent position. This method allows me to pry up the track easily with a spatula if I decide to change the track arrangement. ...Roy
Kenneth, I meant liquid “silicon” glue. ...Roy
What's the main reason that you use Kato Unitrack, Roy? Wouldn't it work out reasonably expensive on a large layout?
I've been considering using a combination of Kato Unitrack (in Swamp/Marsh Areas, and where the Track needs to raised more), and Peco Set Track & Streamline: I'm using CODE 80.
ps .. I just found your Video about Using KATO Track. I'm watching it now.
@@nevillemadden5210 Who the hell answers their own comments? LOL!
@@TheGozalus ... I think that was done on my Phone, when I was unable to EDIT my Original Post.
why dont you have a fred on the end of your consist?
This is a very good question, Bill. I certainly should be running my trains with FRED (or EOT) devices installed on them. I guess the only answer is that I haven't gotten around to that kind of detail yet. Also, I haven't been sure that it can be done easily in N-scale, but I'm going to check it out. ...Roy
There is great FRED kits online the track just needs to be installed with a pin or screw like any other truck and you drill a small hole in the body for the circuitry and battery.
And how do you feel about steam locomotives?
+TheRealZuikaku2 Well, I think they're fine. I think it just depends on what era you want to model. You won't find them on my layout, because I'm modeling a modern era layout. For that same reason, you won't see any cabooses on my layout. And you won't see any passenger trains either, because Amtrak stopped its service through the area I'm modeling in 1997. ...Roy
N-Scale Union Pacific Evanston Subdivision I like your layout. It would be neat to see a FEF3 plodding through there.
+TheRealZuikaku2 Thank you. Yes, that would be interesting to see. ...Roy
KAH-TOE!!!! Not CAT-TOE!
True! And definitely not KAY-TOE. ...Roy
@@n-scaleunionpacificevansto6569 ... Apparently, Mr. Hiroshi Kato prefers it pronounced "kah-toh".
The first 8 Posts here will clarify this .....
www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?threads/how-to-pronounce-kato.25332/
Saying Kato wrong.
MrChittyChad It’s Kah-toe, not Kay-toe. ...Roy
It’s Kah-toe, not Kay-toe. ...Roy