Toyota 4Runner 3VZE | Ep.8 | Head gasket install and FIRST START
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- Опубліковано 26 січ 2021
- Purchase the 3VZ-E head gasket replacement parts list here: practicalenthusiast.gumroad.c...
Sit back, relax, and watch me put this 3VZ-E back together. Then share my anxiety when starting it for the first time.
Check out the entire 4Runner rebuild series here: • Toyota 4Runner
Seal remover & installer set I used: amzn.to/3ArC2DO
Stud extractor I used: amzn.to/2MvQaHY
Toyota FIPG (form in place gasket) sealant for use on valve cover gaskets: amzn.to/3AtWown
Cam gear holding tool: amzn.to/2WU5ByT
1988 Toyota 4Runner 3VZE - Авто та транспорт
I recently did this identical job on my '88 4Runner and it's entirely due to this OUTSTANDING video series. There's no way I would have attempted it without your knowledge, guidance, and calm demeanor on-screen. Thank you so so much!!
Heart palpitations when I saw that white smoke billowing out. Having nam flashbacks of my first car that had a warped head. Glad it was just residual! Not many folks opt to revamp their 3.slow, most end up dropping a 5vz from what I've seen. Been a fun series!
What a chad. Does close to 2000$ worth of work on an engine, doesn't even clean or replace the timing belt cover xD
Amazing job though, i just watched the whole series and I'm amazed at your skills. A little terrified too, I have a 1988 SR5 4runner, I'm really hoping i don't need to do this.
You're one of my favorite youtube channels. Ridiculously high production value for just a guy in a garage with a camera. Keep it going!
Thanks Tim!
Wow. I just bought an old 2nd Gen just like this and found it had a bad head gasket. You made my problem a whole lot easier by making these videos. Thanks!
Damn I bought a 3rd gen pickup and drove it 5 or 6hundred miles and the head gasket started leaking. I cant decide if I want to throw some gaskets on it or 3.4 swap it. I really want to 3.4 swap it but mainly just want my truck back running and driving
Same here
I’m about to replace my head gaskets on my 95 Toyota 4Runner I’m at 293,000 I’m came across your video great job! Thanks 😊 🙏🤘
I've had many enquiries about the 3VZ-E parts list shown in this video. I spent many hours (days, really) researching and constructing a thorough list for this job. This list has the highest quality parts at the best prices (with links of where to buy!). This list is available for purchase here: practicalenthusiast.gumroad.com/l/hUcqV
Making this purchase will not only save you time and money tracking down parts to do this job, but it also greatly helps the Practical Enthusiast channel continue to create videos like you see here. Thank you for watching and for your continued support of the channel!
This channel always gets me pumped and motivated to go out and work on my own car/motorcycle projects. I appreciate all the effort you put into these!
Bet dad's proud
Same done to my 1991 2WD SR5 except head gasket was done by Toyota at 103,000 miles under recall warranty and I replaced the oil pump and the knock sensor. The knock sensor and the timing belt was my reason for stepping out. Thankfully, I purchased service manuals along with the "new" truck in 1992. I was totally shocked when the truck started just as yours did after the job was done.
The only thing of note was that the shock sensor failed almost immediately (a bargain at $75 on the internet) and I had to go into it again, so I redid my valves while I was replacing the faulty knock sensor from Toyota ($150). Live and learn.
Of note to you and others in this comment section is that my engine struggled and clattered going up long hills so I chose to burn premium gas all those years until after my self serving maintenance. I advanced the engine timing to 15 degrees and tested using regular gas. I had much more power without the clatter and without increased engine heat while using a newly designed, single row radiator. Now, at about 370,000 miles, I'm happy with everything except my curse of leaking valve gasket covers. The engine is still good to go! Good luck with yours.
Thank you so much for posting this 3vze head gasket replacement video! You're very meticulous and your work is top notch.
My '94 T100's 3VZE @193k miles is slowly burning coolant, so a head gasket replacement job is imminent. Your video clearly shows very detailed steps & you've generously supplied the parts & special tools list; many thanks for that!
Stay healthy & best wishes for a long running Toyota truck.
Pretty amazing seeing the mechanics on how everything works!! It was fun just watching the attention to detail prepping parts to be installed. Nice video man.👍
I think i found the right place to look at every time I need to work on my 92 4runner. great job.
Me and a few buddies about to take on this project. Beautiful engine. Thanks for the video 🤙🏽
Dude! Thank you so much for these videos! I bought a 1990 Runner recently, and while it seems to be fine for now, there's always that sense of impending doom! Nice to see a price and workload breakdown to make it seem a whole lot less daunting!
Lol I understand that! I just picked up a mint all original 89 4x4 extended cab pick-up and I haven't even drove it much because I'm love it already and I'm scared it's going to blow! Lol but I plan to 5vz swap it anyway
Great series, had fun following it all.
Crazy amount of work you put in. Should be good to go for another 30 years!
Or at least 30 miles to get it back to my dad's place. Haha.
The head gasket went last that long. These 4runners are notorious for blowing the head gasket on the left hand side, which is the driver side here in the US. Left side & right side is based on looking at all vehicles as if you are sitting inside the vehicle & not as looking at a vehicle as is standing in front of the vehicle facing it. Most people are not aware of this. So if u order a left hand mirror, signallight. Head light, etc.. you will get the driver side, not the passenger side. People that complain on comments that a company sent the wrong side are obviously not aware between the LH & RH sides of a car. Sorry, too much unrelated info. But yes, the LH (driver) side head gaskets tend to fail after several years. I believe it's related to the exhaust manifold. That's why some people separate the exhaust into 2 separate units as opposed to 2 exhaust manifolds that join up close to the engine ending into 1 exhaust pipe. Or they extend where they join further down the line. Both these methods prevent exhaust gases to pile up so close to the engine causing excessive gasses from building close to the cylinder heads & ruining the head gaskets. This is what I recall reading many years ago. Hope this may be of interest to some people.
John you are correct about the exhaust running behind the motor and causing the heads to fail. Yes it is a simple fix and a flawed design by Toyota. However if the guy in the video doesn’t to mess with the heads again re route that exhaust pipe and then you shouldn’t have any issues for a long long while.
Wow congratulations on that awesome build it was an amazing video to watch
Amazing job! Thanks for sharing, I enjoyed watching
Thank you so much! Your videos on this job were a big help on my 95 4runner project.
That was worth the entire watch. Glad you got it all sorted out. I was kinda worried at the end with all the smoke..lol
Sgt. Roos, John T. (Ret.) This HAD to take a long time!!:) I'm sure that you were so proud of the work you did for your Dad! A true labor of love...Semper Fidelis
Thank you. Editing the video might have taken longer than the job itself!
Loved how clean the engine looks in the end. When I work on my cars I always clean everything I can reach and the result is always good, but nothing in comparison with you removing the heads and having access to everything.
Thanks Rafael. As you know, cleaning while you go just makes the project that much more satisfying.
You have awesome talent and I love to see the old cars staying on the road! Timmy C.
I have an 88 Toyota pickup that needs new gaskets thanks for sharing! Very useful video
That runner is a beast!
Impressive Every thing done the right way Awsome work 👏
Owned 1990 4Runner since I purchased it summer 1989 and it parked here in my garage w 327k miles. It suits me all these years and won't let it go until it time for me to leave this planet. Enjoyed watching your video was surprised to see your first generation with same engine. I've got steering leak and Toyota discontinued replacement parts so it Lil bit difficult find stuff for old truck. If I ever need to do head gasket replacement I'm sure to check back to watch your video , nicely done 👍.
I have a 1990, for 31 years. I have the original toyoDa gear box and pump. I have never changed them. I only run Valvoline Dexron III blue bottle just like the pump filler cap says and the user manual. I put exactly 1 oz of Scotty's suggested AT-205 Reseal in the reservoir , and its expensive stuff but works. I ran the vehicle for 3 weeks. I saw that the leak greatly reduced but not gone completely. Only then, I added an additional 1 oz measuring exactly with a fluid measuring shot glass. 1 oz also renewed the differential pinion seal at the front of the diff where it meets the yoke & u-joint. I have a spare steer box untouched from a donor and also a pinion seal oem Toyota that I haven't used yet. Gates sells seal kits for the steer gear box but AT-205 Re-seal is the way to go in my opinion.
Dude for this we thank you awesome to see someone still wrenching on the old 3.0 i unfortunately have the same issue 😂
Awesome man thanks for making
Awesome video though really cool and down to the point!
Very very good job!
The initial smoke should be water with oil in the exhaust system itself.
A big hug from Brazil.
Good instruction, it turned out well!
Im dying at the end lololol, is vay niiice
Did you have to just the valves with your new heads
I'm actually going through that exact same problem, but not in my 1991 4runner rebuilt 3.0L 3vze engine, it's on my rebuilt 1990 Miata 1.6. I ran the motor on 4 separate ocassions after newly rebuilding it but for no more than 5 minutes since all my neighbors come out looking at me like I'm the most insensitive piece of crap neighbor. It's embarrassing so it's been sitting in my drive way for a few months. So it's time to do as u guys did & simply jump on the car & drive it around. Hopefully I get the same result. From all the engines that I've rebuilt, this is the first time this happened to me. The major difference, this is the only cylinder head that I didn't send out to the machine shop. I resurfaced the head, valve laped, & installed the valve seals myself. So if all the white smoke doesn't go away after driving it on the streets, most likely I may have installed 1 or more valve seals not fully seated. Or the head may be cracked some where where I was not able to see it. As for the 3.0 by that I rebuilt just a few months prior to the Miata engine, that work was nicely made. Probably the most pain on the ass engine that I ever worked on. The easiest to work on was most likely my 1989 5.0 mustang engine. Which I've just finished rebuilding 2 months ago & need to install back into my convertible mustang.
Wow this have been awesome
Nice. Glad to see no EGR delete. I am watching you trying to get up the nerve to replace my LH camshaft which I dinged the rear bearing surface of while replacing the rear cam cap seal. Duh!
Well done!
I just bought a '93 4Runner SR5 V6 from Craigslist. It runs like a 4 cylinder and guzzled gas like a V8 lol. Glad my job is close by. But anyways the engine and cosmetics really need some TLC. Thanks for the vid!
Omg wow wish you could work on my 1990 3v like that you are so gifted
Awesome work, shows how much effort goes into a head gasket replacement.
Thanks is a very good video on thats job
In Hi saw your video on 3vze v6 4 runner ! I had 5 head gaskets blow in 8 years so thinking to take away heat from that corner I put on extractors and wow 10 years now no head gaskets blow and I’m getting
better fuel economy .too
Peter
What a cool job. In service, this work would cost at least $ 2,500, excluding spare parts.
Lmao. I just got a quote for the same vehicle, same motor, everything... $1200..
@@gregsmith6060 where at? I got quoted 3-4K by 10 mechanic shops here in hawaii..
Great vid hey what is that tool you use to put some of those studs into the head
Could you torque down the head bolts without removing the cam shaft?
do you have any tips? i’m about to try this myself this weekend
Did you do a video on tearing the engine down on the 4 runner
Great series of videos! I’m about to do heads on a 3VZE and this is the perfect companion to the FSM. One question though, what was the big spanner you used? It looks like it fits the cam pulley just right.
Thanks! The cam holder tool I used is like this one: amzn.to/2WU5ByT
You didn’t have to use a spill free funnel and burp the system?
hi, im doing a head gasket job on my toyota pick up 3vze ans i have a couple of question.
How do you make sure to place the cam correctly to keep the timing ?
what is the tension on the accessories belt ?
At 9:00 u put some RTV at some points before fitting the valve covers. What was that for?
I would have popped for the 150$ stainless header set that gets rid of the cross pipe that causes the head gasket issues to begin with! I’m bout to do this same job on my 91’ and I’m gonna throw the header kit on and I’ll let you know how it turns out!
Let me know how it works. You think they will fit in a motorhome setup? I'm puttingine back together now.
I took my engine apart I notice that piston 1 is slightly lower than piston 4 at tdc. I did the test with the other pistons and piston 1is lower than all others. I think it might be a bent rod. Any idea of what could it be?
Realmente formidable , mejor imposible....
Congratulations! Great work and great video editing. Quick question, i noticed your HG were like a silver color, not the original charcoal/smoke color they came in. Did you spray them with something?
Thanks! That's the way they came out of the box. I was curious about it as well, but I figured that's how they were supposed to be. It was a light dusting of "something" that gave them that light gray color. Reminded me of the coating on Kleenex tissue. Maybe it's to help seal up against very small imperfections in the sealing surfaces? Who knows. It seems to have worked great whatever it was.
does anyone know where to find the inlet for the top radiator hose mines corroded away but i cant find it 16:15
How long did it take you?
I just recently changed the head gaskets on my 3.2 liter Isuzu Trooper and it smoked worse than yours, cleared up after about 30 minutes.. I had a sick feeling.. Luckily my mechanic buddy said it's normal and will clear up.
This has only happened on 1 of my rebuilds. It's my miata that I recently rebuilt after my 4runner rebuild & before my 89 mustang rebuild. Still sitting on my drive way. I gotta jump on it & drive it around. I always knew that driving it may burn off excess oil that built up some where or coolant. Other people also told me that they had this happen to them & the white smoke went away with a several miles drive.
hello from venezuela, I have a 4runner 3vze 1994, i love my runner but they have a failature, every seven month the compresure up to radiador¡ or mix oil and refrigerant, i was change, the screws, head gasket and again,
its temperature is always hot, no very hot¡, in the midle level, the block and the cameras have been flattened , I'm already thinking about putting an electric fan and remov the fancluch, the radiador is ok, the wather pump ok, I have thought that the gaskets are not adequate, I saw that you placed iron, it always damages them in the narrowest part of the water pass and the cylinders. Have you had a similar error? could you give me some guidance. Sorry for my english, it's real bad.
No leftover bolts or emptied bandaid boxes? Nice work!
Why not delete exhaust crossover?
What state you live in trying to have my 4Runner towed and pay you to do it? Got a 1994 Toyota 4Runner four-wheel drive 3vz my son put everything at it down to can't get the timing right at least with the distributor. Check double check everything else no check engine lights??
Did you have to adjust your valves
Great, great!
I also had gray milky residue under my cap when I first started it back up! I was like fffffuuuuuu****** But after a light road test it's all gone!
Glad to hear it worked out. I was definitely feeling crappy when I saw the underside of the cap at first.
Your help will be appreciated.
When I melted the piston on my Subaru my exhaust got full of oil. Even with using a can or 3 of brake cleaner rinsing the cats before reassembly it took a couple days for the smoke and oil smell to go away.
So weird to see a distributor on a engine. Haven’t worked on a engine with a distributor in years. Time to get a classic car I guess. So I can brush the dust off my timing light, if I could even find it.....
Distributors and setting timing is that extra step in reassembly that, when you're tired, you just don't want to do. I can't say I miss it on the newer stuff!
Glad I found your channel!
I have an issue with my 3VZE I’ve been going nuts trying to figure out and was wondering what it sounds like to you since you’re so familiar with this motor:
For context I had to replace the motor in my 1990 4runner, the replacement came off of a 95’ if I’m not mistaken.
The car starts up perfectly at cold start and idles normally. After about 20mins of driving, I’ll turn the car off to go into a store or something. When I come back and start my car, it has a very low, slightly bouncy idle and sometimes even dies instantly. The only way I can drive at that point is by turning on my A/C which brings the idle back up enough to stay running. I’m not sure if the two issues are related, but also sometimes when I brake, there is a clear idle bounce/ surge.
What would you recommend I check first? Could the vacuum lines be connected incorrectly or possibly a vacuum leak? Brake booster? Throttle body? Please let me know what you think🙏
This sounds like your throttle position sensor is out of adjustment or needs replaced. Do a Google search on 3VZE TPS adjustment and you'll find a lot of information on how to adjust it. Good luck!
Great video, I'm doin my heads and referring to it through the process. It's been a huge help! One thing I noticed, not sure it made any difference but at 13.50 when you installed the cam gears it looks like you installed them backwards. At least on my 1988 pickup V6 3.0 the right side gear had the lip facing outward toward the radiator and the left side gear the lip was facing the engine. You installed yours the opposite of that. I took pictures of mine when I took off the cover so I would remember and have re-installed it that way. Wondering if you have noticed anything different or has it affected the way it runs? Thanks again for the video, super big help!
Hmm, I'm not sure on that. They were that orientation when I pulled them off, so I put them back the same way. If yours ran fine with the cam pulleys set the way you described, it's probably fine to put them back that way.
two things, ARP bolts 11 mm there guys that sell them as a kit but use your head and you can figure it out what you need. and LCE head gaskets
Well done! You made it look easy. How long did it take you from start of the video? 5 hours?
I think if I wasn't taking video it would have taken a good 8 hours. It was a couple of days with video.
@@PracticalEnthusiast great job none the less. Your articles on Jalopnik inspired me to buy my 1993 300zx NA. Just finished dropping the rear subframe and gas tank to fix a leak. Now the rear subframe and suspension is 100% restored. Keep more videos coming on your Z! 👍
Im doing the same job on my 1995 4runner 3vze. I use your videos as a guide, fantastic. I strictly follow your instructions and I need to ask: "Why is it that when reassembling the heads to the engine block using the 33nm ( if I am supposed right) torque specs you make some marks on the bolts and still turning them more 90⁰ and more 90⁰ totaling 180⁰ clockwise? Doesn't it rule us out of bolts' torque specs?
Thanks for your help.
The torque spec is simply to get the initial clamping force applied evenly to the cylinder head. The additional 180 degrees causes the bolts to stretch and reach the final clamping force required. Stretching a bolt the correct amount isn't something you can achieve with a torque value.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Thank you so much for replying and congrats to you for those amazing and didactic videos.
Question: When you adjusted the timing belt without the marks, how did you know when it was correct? And how did you know the distributor was in the correct position?
I aligned the markings on the pulleys with the markings on the backplate and oil pump. Since it's a non interference engine, there's no harm in rotating it when the timing is off. You just keep adjusting the placement of the belt until all the alignment marks line up after you rotate the engine a few times.
Me gustó tu trabajo y yo deseo saber donde estás y poder llevarte el mío Toyota 1995 3.0 6 cilindros y cuánto sale el precio tal y como lo isiste en ese Toyota
Is it normal for the camshaft seals to slightly rip from the edges when installing them? I used the same type of installer but for some reason the outer edges of the seal seem to deform slightly. I wonder if this would cause any leaks or premature damage.
That's pretty common and I haven't experienced any leaks resulting from it.
Hello! I just did my head gasket on my 94 Toyota 4 runner and it’s cranking but not starting we messed with the distributor but it’s still not starting. Is there any common issues that happen after head gasket installs on these cars,?
I'd first check for spark (pull a spark plug and ground it while cranking the engine). If you're getting spark, then I'd check if you're getting fuel. If both are happening, then I'd check the timing belt and make sure it's set right. It's possible the cams are a revolution off.
How tight did you go on the crankshaft pulley bolt bud? The manual calls for a ridiculous torque. Nice clean work btw. Also when I did my HG last year and first started 'er back up the whole engine bay was smoking so much almost ran to grab an extinguisher, all the burn off you get.
Thank you! I think it was 181 ft/lb if I recall correctly. I did it with 3/4 inch Harbor Freight torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft/lb. I locked the crank pulley in place with this holding tool and a long breaker bar (the holding tool does require modification such as widening the bolt slots with a Dremel): amzn.to/3lLG03V
my undercarrige looks that freaking dirty it makes me sad =(
im fixing to mill block and heads and pretty much get it re done in a couple weeks aswell
How in the hell did you get the drivers side crossover pipe nuts off!!!!? I had no issues with the down pipe but I was going to take the drivers side off and take the crossover pipe off with the head but man they are tight!!! 14 mm nuts 3 of them. Have them smoking now in penetrating oil hopefully they will come. They do not look that rusted either just seeing if you had any tips. Thanks
I don't remember too well honestly. I'm pretty sure I used a 3/8 ratchet. I may have had a breaker bar pipe to extend the ratchet to get more leverage breaking them loose.
Ok I am a subscriber and seeking advice. For 25 years I own
in the engine. Pitting, that was fixed. It has a rebuilt distributor assembly
because the old ignition distributer was original, it has rust. They are having a timing
issue where it won't run right at 10 degrees and maybe if they set at 15
degrees engine might ping (detonate) it has fresh gas. They did a good job on rebuilding
the engine, just a challenge to get the timing right. Do you think I might need a new engine control module or a modified module to get the timing correct? Was it a mistake to trade in that
old distributor as a core? Any advice?
Hello! I would first check the that the timing belt isn't off a tooth or more. Set the engine to TDC, pull the top most timing cover off (will have to remove the coolant bridge) and make sure the camshaft sprockets are aligned with the marks in the backing plate.
Hello, im really curious to why after all your meticulous work and time you didn't decide to delete or modify the exhaust crossover pipe?
Hi - the revised Toyota head gaskets make replacing the headers a moot point. I wasn't interested in prolonging the project by dealing with fitment issues with unknown quality aftermarket headers and downpipe. If you have the time and don't mind putting a few more hundred dollars into the project, then swapping the headers is a reasonable path. But it isn't necessary with the updated head gaskets.
Burnout? Ya! Burnout!
Engine: wheezes
I think the clutch would have signed off shortly after
Does anyone know if the mls head gasket is a good idea for this engine?
It is necessary due to the iron block and the aluminum heads.
I know this was made awhile ago but would there be any chance i could see the cams fully put together. Im still pretty new with this motor and was just curious with the backside of the cams where the camera couldnt quite see
What part are you needing to see specifically?
The back of the cams by the firewall
How can I get the regular speed version of this. I'm literally at this step.
At the bottom of you tube window is a gear /settings icon....the speed can be altered.
I need help, trying to remove an injector the tip broke off and fell inside the the whole, do I have to remove the whole head to extract it ir should I be able to remove it just by taking off the valve cover?
I would try a using a vacuum to suck it out. Removing the valve cover won't help.
@@PracticalEnthusiast thanks I didn’t think of that 🤦🏻♂️
And you blew the opportunity to install headers while it was apart ?
How long did it take you to put it back together
About a week of evenings.
Is it benficial to go back and retorque the heads after a short amount of time after doing the head gaskets on a 3VZE ?
No, not if you're using the original style torque to yield bolts. There is no final torque value, but instead a final bolt head angle value. This final angle causes the bolts to stretch and they should not loosen.
Thanks
What is the tool you used to seat the studs?
Hi Shawn, check out the video description. There's a link to it.
If the notch on the crank sprocket and the notch on the oil pump are lined up then I'm TDC right? Making sure I did it right
The cams also need to be aligned with their markers as well or else you could be a revolution off on the crank.
@@PracticalEnthusiast yea I got that part, I just wanted to know if every other rotation on the crank sprocket was TDC. If that makes sense?
Yep, there are two revolutions of the crank to get back to TDC. The marks on the cam sprockets will be lined up when you're on the TDC crank revolution.
What kind of goop do I put on the camshaft caps / underside to keep things from scoring while trying to start the first time?
I used Permatex Ultra Slick engine assembly lube. You can get it here if you're interested: amzn.to/3LIIPBz
@@PracticalEnthusiast Thanks! I just ordered some. Another question - I saw you used 180 grit to clean the surface of the block. That scares me as I'm a noob doing my first HG replacement ( actually on a 3.4 ). This is really safe?
@@pyrathian yep, it's safe. In fact, the Toyota service manual tells you to do it. Iron blocks are pretty resilient and can handle 180 grit sandpaper just fine.
@@PracticalEnthusiast You're the best man I appreciate the help! Hope to get this 3.4 buttoned up and back on the road this weekend (fingers crossed).
At 8:30 do you have the part # I saw in your other videos it came in that full kit I just can't find a part # to buy them by themselves
The foam pieces? Sorry, I don't have the part numbers for them.
@@PracticalEnthusiast yeah no worries I knew it was a long shot thanks so much for your videos helped alot with my rebuild hopefully I can drop the engine back in at the end of the month
@@PracticalEnthusiast do you know what the pieces are called? I am trying to locate them but don’t know what they are called. Putting my 3vze back together now! 🤞🏻
Sorry, I don't! Toyota usually calls these things "insulator" or "packing" but I'd call them "foam" 🤷
Podrías hacer un video enseñando a conectar todas las mangueras de vacío por favor no eh podido :((((((((((((
Envez de musica abla endicando las partes gracias
Career mechanic here. This is not the job for the novice. I'm being very honest with you. Be honest with yourself. If you do not have transportation this vehicle can't just sit around for you to repair at your leisure where you're less likely to make mistake. Make sure you're entirely familiar with the tear down process. When removing bolts, washers, nuts,, backing plates., Etc for each part is placed into a ziock baggie , fastened and then the name of the part written in permanent marker (or if things aren't that dirty and you want to save the ziplock baggies for another purpose then go ahead and use the erasable markers.
If you don't have experience with timing and major engine tear down and rebuild then this job isn't likely the ideal task for you.. I say that as a humble man who's been a mechanic professionally for 4 decades.. I've seen some of the most intelligent people,. some who had high mechanical aptitude, attempt a major service and do far more harm than good.
This service optimality being more cost effective is head gaskets, timing components and water pump. Also you should consider replacing the front oil seal that is behind the crankshaft gear and harmonic balancer located at the front lower part of the engine.
Again if you're not mechanically inclined naturally don't attempt to do this job alone. Make sure your help knows more than you do if you're a novice. Pay attention and watch the several videos on UA-cam about this procedure.
My 4Runner 3VZE with 5spd sat for 5 years with blown gasket Cyl 6. I contemplated DIY and dealing wit a machine shop. But there are just too many things that need checked like cam wear, block and head warping risks, and pitting.
The builder expained to me the MLS gaskets can not be old off the shelf, they have a shelf life and will shrink over time. My cams were worn at 300k mi not from my negligent, but I was using Castrol and zinc had been lowered over the years. I didn't know. Also coolant sitting in the motor caused some pitting, rust, etc. So new toy cams, heads, pistons, front & rear seals, etc. They gave me a 2yr warranty and I kept my orig motor block & crank. Its been running 2 years now. They had a hell of a time getting it running, and a few new parts failed, they had my vehicle for 1 year during covid and parts shortages. The bugs are worked out like a blown HG can kill the o2 sensor, and I had to replace the water temp sensor and o2 sensor (denso...nothing else) , and oem toy plug wires to get mine running efficient .
I would have put some heat shielding material on the exhaust crossover pipe
I am in the process to do that on 2 sections of the crossover...While motor is in vehicle. :( Also its important the proper mix of the Toy red coolant, and using a proper 3 core radiator, (i'm still using brass original) and the full radiator plastic cowling around the radiator fan, and a top quality radiator fan clutch.
Oh man, that smoke afer all that work, I was like ok it's not just me lol.. however it turned out to be a warped head (driver side), trying to go cheap cost me more $ and time. Net time I'll just drop it off at your garage. HAHAHAHAHAHA.
Chu- Chu !!!! 😂