Refreshing build to see, very functional. I prefer just putting a tube bottomed slider on the rocker panel as opposed to nerf bars or rock sliders to the frame, and eye wrapped leaf springs but other than that nothing I would change...great build!
Time to get underneath and clean up the rust. Like the black grill accent. Dash and gauges are nice. Might see if you can find a yj Rubicon for stronger front end. ( dana 44, same width). Does need freewheeling hubs. Very nice.
That's all mud residue no rust on this rig. I haven't decided on axle just yet. Really want d44hp from late 70s f250 or just go one tons from 05 superduty. For now the 30 is getting the job done.
@@wesbarcus3761 from experience the weak link are the ujoints and outer shafts. I'm running chromoly shafts with d44 ujoints as is. So going rubi 44 won't get me much other than slightly bigger ring gear. It's not much of an upgrade to justify the cost and work involved. And still lacks locking hubs. If anything JL 44 would be a much better option. Would go well with 8.8 rear. I could get super 88 kit for it and would be plenty strong for my 37s. Also I'm hoping for better and bigger brakes which JL axle allows for.
@@fotomotoxxiii awesome thank man, hey how’s your aluminum radiator holding up? I’ve debated getting a Mishimoto but it sounds like 50/50 split on whether it’s junk or an improvement.
are you running spacers om your 8.8?and do you remember your measurement on both side from you perches to your backing plates? great vid by the way ,I like the way you done your trans too.I'm only gonna run 35 for while.
@@fotomotoxxiii I was planing on running my skid to frame too.I have same tcase modified like yours,Im doing alot to much to list here,so do you still have slight offset with your 8.8 at all?
Well the goal was to upgrade it as soon as it broke. I built the d30hp for 35s which I only had for very short time before going up to 37s. However surprisingly its held up to 37s for 5 years now and I'm not exactly easy on my jeep. G2 chromoly shafts are awesome
@@brilliantcustoms6440 not too bad. I picked up ford 8.8 from junk yard then cut everything off it. Regeared and replaced everything inside the axle. Then welded on new mounts at correct angle then paint and get new driveshaft and brake kit to connect brakes and ebrake. Its work but not too bad
@@fotomotoxxiii I’m just curious on how you centered the axle and set the angles, I’ve seen videos on UA-cam of people doing but not very detailed I was curious if you could help me better understand how to do that or if you could redirect me to where I could find that out
@@brilliantcustoms6440 I used leaf springs to center it. So I installed the mounts onto axle tighten up leaf spring ubolts then measured same distance on each side then tac welded the mounts. As far as angle you lift and tcase dictates that you point right at the output yoke of tcase and then drop a degree or two for torque wrap.
I own a 94 jeep yj wrangler 4.0 inline straight 6 it runs and drives great the only issue I do have with it is frame rot I would love to know how I can deal with this without spending a whole lot of 💵 as I'm on a fixed income I'm on SSDI any and all help will be greatly appreciated I'm also from ohio so we do get 🌨️ lots of it at times
How bad is the rot mate? If it's done a number on your frame only way is to cut and weld new sections. Then apply por15 and paint over that. If it's not too bad you can wire wheel it and apply por15 then.
@@fotomotoxxiii it's bad dude very bad needs to be cut & replaced it's in driver's side rear also on passenger side rear as well need to replace the windshield wiper motor arms and rod that moves arms back and forth
@@jameshambrick9977 yikes. Is this something you're interested in learning or doing yourself? Because you can get a budget welder and find scrap metal to do it
@@jameshambrick9977 right on man I'm in wheelchair disabled myself. Definitely getting an inexpensive welder and grinder would be good start. You can always email me @ backcountrydaily@gmail.com I have a fabrication series couple episodes made. I have to finish making 2 more episodes for supplies and gear. But the 1st episode is up and you can check it out.
@@fotomotoxxiii Good deal. I always wonder because I have the 94 YJ with a 4 cylinder. I have 31" BF KO2's. Im putting an ac in it this year and am thinking of rebuilding the engine and doing a small turbo. Nothing outrageous, just need more power to maybe run 33's with an AC. Im always curious about the motor in these YJ builds so I can get Ideas of what works and what doesn't. I wanna keep the original engine. It runs good like it is but the AC is going to pull a lot of power out of the 4 cylinder. Overlanding is the goal. Thanks for the info.
Refreshing build to see, very functional. I prefer just putting a tube bottomed slider on the rocker panel as opposed to nerf bars or rock sliders to the frame, and eye wrapped leaf springs but other than that nothing I would change...great build!
Nice 2.0 Update!! I like the added lighting, the use of a fuse box and just the clean and simplicity setup of the entire Jeep!!
Thank you sir!
Everything out of the catalog. 👍🏻
Can't wait to fix my YJ up 😁. Thought about having tube doors on the jeep?
Haha I had them and my buddy borrowed them and sold his jeep with them on SMH. I'll make another set soon, keep forgetting to grab 1.5 od tube
Very good video
Wow very nice sir
Thank you sir!
Time to get underneath and clean up the rust. Like the black grill accent. Dash and gauges are nice. Might see if you can find a yj Rubicon for stronger front end. ( dana 44, same width). Does need freewheeling hubs. Very nice.
That's all mud residue no rust on this rig. I haven't decided on axle just yet. Really want d44hp from late 70s f250 or just go one tons from 05 superduty. For now the 30 is getting the job done.
Find a TJ RUBI AXLE. MY BAD FAT THUMB. 04 to 06. Might find one in a repo yard.
@@fotomotoxxiii you must run in a lot of clay. Yup, it will wash off.
@@wesbarcus3761 from experience the weak link are the ujoints and outer shafts. I'm running chromoly shafts with d44 ujoints as is. So going rubi 44 won't get me much other than slightly bigger ring gear. It's not much of an upgrade to justify the cost and work involved. And still lacks locking hubs. If anything JL 44 would be a much better option. Would go well with 8.8 rear. I could get super 88 kit for it and would be plenty strong for my 37s. Also I'm hoping for better and bigger brakes which JL axle allows for.
@@fotomotoxxiii driving style can make the 30 last. Just looking at your jeep says you don't abuse it.
Love the jeep ❤❤
Was your rear axle a Ford 8.8?
Thank you! Yes ford 8.8 really good axle! 👍
What's the brand of your rear bumper?
Crown
Thank you
Niice.. I wish you'd back up a bit or slide in a few clips of the whole jeep between shots every 10 seconds.
Good suggestion thank you!
What are ur front fenders
Custom made. Just dom tube we made at the old jeep shop
What’s the model of the transmission cooler? I’m considering getting one myself but I’m not sure where to start.
Hayden 778 I believe is what it is. They have them all different sizes. If you tell me for what vehicle ill look it up for ya.
@@fotomotoxxiii awesome man, I’d be running it in a 94 YJ in-line 6 engine 3 speed automatic transmission.
@@fotomotoxxiii would the 778 work for my rig?
@@serioussoldier7977 hayden 678! That's the one
@@fotomotoxxiii awesome thank man, hey how’s your aluminum radiator holding up? I’ve debated getting a Mishimoto but it sounds like 50/50 split on whether it’s junk or an improvement.
are you running spacers om your 8.8?and do you remember your measurement on both side from you perches to your backing plates? great vid by the way ,I like the way you done your trans too.I'm only gonna run 35 for while.
I am running spacers on 8.8. G2 1.25"
I don't remember meaasurmenent at all sorry. I also pulled the tcase drop kit and it's way better!
@@fotomotoxxiii I was planing on running my skid to frame too.I have same tcase modified like yours,Im doing alot to much to list here,so do you still have slight offset with your 8.8 at all?
I just bought a jeep yj and I’m curious how the front axle has a held up throughout your build
Well the goal was to upgrade it as soon as it broke. I built the d30hp for 35s which I only had for very short time before going up to 37s. However surprisingly its held up to 37s for 5 years now and I'm not exactly easy on my jeep. G2 chromoly shafts are awesome
How hard was it to swap the rear axle? And what all did you need to do that?
@@brilliantcustoms6440 not too bad. I picked up ford 8.8 from junk yard then cut everything off it. Regeared and replaced everything inside the axle. Then welded on new mounts at correct angle then paint and get new driveshaft and brake kit to connect brakes and ebrake. Its work but not too bad
@@fotomotoxxiii I’m just curious on how you centered the axle and set the angles, I’ve seen videos on UA-cam of people doing but not very detailed I was curious if you could help me better understand how to do that or if you could redirect me to where I could find that out
@@brilliantcustoms6440 I used leaf springs to center it. So I installed the mounts onto axle tighten up leaf spring ubolts then measured same distance on each side then tac welded the mounts. As far as angle you lift and tcase dictates that you point right at the output yoke of tcase and then drop a degree or two for torque wrap.
Where did you get the aftermarket gauges ???
Ebay they're autometer.
I own a 94 jeep yj wrangler 4.0 inline straight 6 it runs and drives great the only issue I do have with it is frame rot I would love to know how I can deal with this without spending a whole lot of 💵 as I'm on a fixed income I'm on SSDI any and all help will be greatly appreciated I'm also from ohio so we do get 🌨️ lots of it at times
How bad is the rot mate? If it's done a number on your frame only way is to cut and weld new sections. Then apply por15 and paint over that. If it's not too bad you can wire wheel it and apply por15 then.
@@fotomotoxxiii it's bad dude very bad needs to be cut & replaced it's in driver's side rear also on passenger side rear as well need to replace the windshield wiper motor arms and rod that moves arms back and forth
@@jameshambrick9977 yikes. Is this something you're interested in learning or doing yourself? Because you can get a budget welder and find scrap metal to do it
@@fotomotoxxiii I am disabled so I would love help and yes I would like to try to do it on my own I bought it to restore it
@@jameshambrick9977 right on man I'm in wheelchair disabled myself. Definitely getting an inexpensive welder and grinder would be good start. You can always email me @ backcountrydaily@gmail.com
I have a fabrication series couple episodes made. I have to finish making 2 more episodes for supplies and gear. But the 1st episode is up and you can check it out.
Do you have any stretch front or rear?
Yea I think these leafs do one inch both ways
@@fotomotoxxiii Thanks for the reply. I'm starting my build soon and I've followed your jeep for a while. Nice work on it!
@@jasonbasonbobason thank you and good luck. Email me if you have any questions that come up at backcountrydaily@gmail
I like this jeep lneed some lnfo
Ask away
No one ever talks about the engine.
It’s a 4.2 not much to talk about I have done hei dizzy and mc2150 carb ecu delete and hotrod style wiring
@@fotomotoxxiii Good deal. I always wonder because I have the 94 YJ with a 4 cylinder. I have 31" BF KO2's. Im putting an ac in it this year and am thinking of rebuilding the engine and doing a small turbo. Nothing outrageous, just need more power to maybe run 33's with an AC. Im always curious about the motor in these YJ builds so I can get Ideas of what works and what doesn't. I wanna keep the original engine. It runs good like it is but the AC is going to pull a lot of power out of the 4 cylinder. Overlanding is the goal. Thanks for the info.
@@roysbarton you should do good maybe regear and that’s all you’ll need!
@@fotomotoxxiii Thanks Man, I defiantly have been looking into regearing it. I appreciate the info Hand.
WRANGLER YJ 1991 YEARS ENGINE 4.0 PCM 56026982 NOT WORK NEED NEW NUMBER PART FOR NEW PCM NO DRAVE 3 YEARS THANKS FOR HELP FROM BOSNIA