9:37 ...yeah, at least you are also saying it - and it's definitely not the right way to tighten (or loosen) those inner tie rods to the steering rack: 1/ These are obviously safety relevant, so should be torqued to spec. using a proper tool (I did mine last year and bought a 38mm crows foot for use with my torque wrench) - who wants them to come loose during driving (granted, they will probably not fall out straightaway but still) ?! - but on the other hand, they should also not be overtightened as you risk damaging the steering rack. And this also leads me to my second point: 2/ BMW TIS (+also Bentley service manual) specifically state for loosening/tightening the inner tie rods: "Important! To avoid damage to rack and to suspension mounting, move rack in as far as possible." In this video it seems to be as far out as possible 😄 BTW there are different torque specs depending on the steering rack manufacturer, TRW (ATF Dexron III fluid)= 100+10 Nm ; ZF (Pentosin CHF11S fluid) = 110+10 Nm , tighten in two steps (...but IIRC both specs have been updated so only first torque step is spec'd - I only did 1. torque step when replacing mine - unfortunately newtis.info is no longer working, so I can't check to confirm...) Other than that, great video - I always enjoy watching your E90 videos 👍👍
Great info! I will replace mine next week and always wondered if I have to hold the steering rack rod with something to counter the tightening of the tie rod ends. Thanks!
@@cribsone Hello can I ask you about the answer to your comment / the question of whether or not it is necessary to counter hold the steering rack while tightening the tie rod ( inner & outer ) to final torque spec ? Also where can the specific manufacturer of the steering rack be found ?
@@ThunderbirdRocketI wanted to ask the same question as I would like to do this by myself for the first time. I watched some videos where they tell that holding a rack during the tie rod replacement is a must. In the bmw manual there is nothing about it. Is it safe to unscrew the tie rod without holding the rack?
These videos are amazing, i love DIY videos, and the plus of these ones, are the quality of sound and video, that makes it easier, thanks for these and please keep making more for the e90 RWD, as my car, the e87 shares almost everything, but you people there in the states did not get Hatches 1 series. Cheers!
If I ever do this again - will get whole assembly...... dont even try to unscrew the tie rod - took the whole assembly off, put it in a bench vise, took my grinder cut off the end....sliced it down the middle and then screwed it off .....
Great video, did this job last night. Referring to the Bentley Service Manual- (Steering Wheel Alignment 320-13) the torque spec on the Tie Rod to Steering Knuckle is 80 Nm ( 59 ft-lbs) not 175 NM. Tie Rod pinch bolt is 40Nm (30 ft-lb). I also found it easier to install the pinion side of the tie rod first and then tread on the knuckle side after.
Thank you for the video i am rebuilding a 2011 328i and have to change the tie rod assembly so the video really shows how simple the process is!! Many thanks!
#H4DES is back. This E9X has the M3 control arm upgrade that adds negative camber. So the jaws of life were used to get the (rusted) tie rods right for that wheel alignment...Fun. Anti-seize indeed. Too late. Looks like a shiny new wheel carrier too. Remember to reassemble the inner outer tie rod ends with the bellows and small clamp...then the large clamp, before installing on the car. Would love to see the bloopers reel. Wonder if Meyle makes a HD version of the tie rods for my E9X M3?
Yes, they do make them. They are the same as a regular 3 series or 1 series. Part numbers 3160200007/HD and 3160200008/HD. They have massive ball joints.
So. SO. I see why xDrive weren't mentionned here. I tried to do the tie rods on my 335i xDrive today and wantes to see how different it was from the RWD cars. Turns out a part of the subframe is directly under the inner tie rod and steering rack connection. So I can't go under the car and simply use a channel lock to wrench out that nut, since there is now way to get to the nut from under. If you try going above the subframe you also don't have enough. I suppose the solution is to order a 38mm crowfoot.
@@Use2FACTAUTH Hello, can I ask you about your experience with this job on the Xdrive ? How did you end up getting the inner tie rod nut off ? Was it the long tube style tool that slips right over the entire length of the inner tie rod which you ended up using or something else ? Any other advice / challenges / solutions to speak of ? Your help would be greatly appreciated .
@@ThunderbirdRocket luckily there was enough room to put a large pair or pliers on it to break it loose from the bottom. Just turn the steering wheel to full lock for better access. The tube type tool you’re talking about also works great if you want to go that route. Also the tie rod boot clamps are a pain to get to and tighten properly. I used a pair of side cutters to tighten them but I’d recommend getting the special tool for clamping them. (Lisle 30600 “offset boot clamp pliers”) other than that it’s pretty straight forward
@@Use2FACTAUTH Thanks for taking the time to help alfredo ! 👍🏼 I like the sounds of that - I’m going to try common tools for the inner tie rod nut with the steering wheel turned to create the extra space needed as you have advised . 👍🏼Might be purchasing the special Lisle clamp fastening tool - thanks for the tip and model number there . 👊🏼
Quick question. F25 X3, car tends to wander despite a 4-wheel alignment. No particular direction, just not settled on the freeway. Any ideas? Car has 125k kilometers.
this is tough without access to the vehicle to test drive, the way the car behaves could vary depending on the issue. it could be something loose in the suspension allowing the alignment to vary, or even shifting belts in a tire. Non-alignment related it could be an anti-roll property not working properly, or even failing suspension
@@fcpeurodue to mileage, I ended up replacing all suspension related parts (upper and lower control arms, ball joints, tie rods) short of dampeners and yet the problem still persists. Super frustrating
tires likely. my elantra was diagnosed with tire separation. err, separation found on one or more of the tires. i'll see if replacing these old tires does the trick
Great Video! and I am sure everyone here has read all sorts of situations, here is mine: I took off the two tie rods, without marking right and left. Now I cannot figure out which one is left, and which one is right! Given that this is a 2007 car, and original tie rods, I cannot see any numbers stamped on it. Any tips on how to figure this out? I do understand that I can just install the new ones from FCP, which are clearly marked, and adjust them using the measuring tips in the "alignment overview" section, but I am still intrigued, how do you tell them apart? Thx
Anyone done thus on an e90 xdrive? I cant get a set of pliers on the inner tie rod to get it out and an adjustable wrench has no clearance... what size do I need for the tie rod tool? Looks to be about 1 1/2 in
What size Oetiker clamps should I use for this job? I gotta tackle this tomorrow and you guys have been awesome with everything. I believe I need both small and bigger.
Hi Ozzy, www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-pipe-clamp-32106765232 is the inner larger clamp, www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-hose-clamp-d-equals-194-225-32136756011 is the outer smaller one. Typically new bellows tend to include these as well.
Hello , can I ask you if you found the answer to your question ? I’m also wondering ( I have the e90 Xdrive too ) . Any tips you can share , different steps / challenges would be greatly appreciated .
Can I ask you about the e90 Xdrive question … are there any different steps / challenges / tools required for the e90 Xdrive ? Any help you can share would be greatly appreciated .
Do you think there is enough space to use the kind of inner tie rod tool that “strangles” the nut and you attach a ratchet right there at the location? (In others words the type of tool that doesn’t utilize the long pipe which brings the ratcheting tool closer to the wheel well ).
08:11 "Just make sure that when you put the boot on, you also put the clamp on" Proceeds not putting the clamp on 😀 *Great video, I just bought mine from Meyle HD(Part numbers 3160200007/HD and 3160200008/HD) and was going to change them next week along with the M3 control arms for my 1 series!
Question. What if the rack seal is leaking fluid and if I want to put new boot so that the fluid is not leaking. Would that be possible? I don't need it for long time, maybe just for 2 years that it survives. Eventually the boot will be filled with oil, would that mess something up with that ball joint (I know it requires grease instead of fluid, but it has similar properties I guess)?
I just finished the job on a 2012 x1 awd and it was nearly identical. This was a fantastic tutorial to help me get the job done and you were right about the hose clamps. Pain in the but to reach in there especially on the awd. That was the hardest part really.
"you need to do this before you assemble, because, uhh, you'll be sad" been there and I can definitely relate
😢
Excellent video. Well done, straightforward and informative. Thank you!
Good ole knipex! Always a tool of choice! The directional teeth help every time!
I even have this tool.
Very helpful! This was not the correct sizes, bolt or nut types for my Ger e90 and, but the process is the same. Great videos as always!
9:37 ...yeah, at least you are also saying it - and it's definitely not the right way to tighten (or loosen) those inner tie rods to the steering rack:
1/ These are obviously safety relevant, so should be torqued to spec. using a proper tool (I did mine last year and bought a 38mm crows foot for use with my torque wrench) - who wants them to come loose during driving (granted, they will probably not fall out straightaway but still) ?! - but on the other hand, they should also not be overtightened as you risk damaging the steering rack. And this also leads me to my second point:
2/ BMW TIS (+also Bentley service manual) specifically state for loosening/tightening the inner tie rods: "Important! To avoid damage to rack and to suspension mounting, move rack in as far as possible." In this video it seems to be as far out as possible 😄
BTW there are different torque specs depending on the steering rack manufacturer, TRW (ATF Dexron III fluid)= 100+10 Nm ; ZF (Pentosin CHF11S fluid) = 110+10 Nm , tighten in two steps (...but IIRC both specs have been updated so only first torque step is spec'd - I only did 1. torque step when replacing mine - unfortunately newtis.info is no longer working, so I can't check to confirm...)
Other than that, great video - I always enjoy watching your E90 videos 👍👍
Great info! I will replace mine next week and always wondered if I have to hold the steering rack rod with something to counter the tightening of the tie rod ends. Thanks!
@@cribsone
Hello can I ask you about the answer to your comment / the question of whether or not it is necessary to counter hold the steering rack while tightening the tie rod ( inner & outer ) to final torque spec ? Also where can the specific manufacturer of the steering rack be found ?
@@ThunderbirdRocketI wanted to ask the same question as I would like to do this by myself for the first time. I watched some videos where they tell that holding a rack during the tie rod replacement is a must. In the bmw manual there is nothing about it. Is it safe to unscrew the tie rod without holding the rack?
I crashed my bmw and want to rebuild it , your videos help a lot bro
This makes dropping the subframe waaay easier.
Love it, thank you so much!
💙
These videos are amazing, i love DIY videos, and the plus of these ones, are the quality of sound and video, that makes it easier, thanks for these and please keep making more for the e90 RWD, as my car, the e87 shares almost everything, but you people there in the states did not get Hatches 1 series. Cheers!
For $25 each ($50) I would tap the clamp off and try my damnedest to reuse it.
If I ever do this again - will get whole assembly...... dont even try to unscrew the tie rod - took the whole assembly off, put it in a bench vise, took my grinder cut off the end....sliced it down the middle and then screwed it off .....
Thank you sir.
Most welcome
Really enjoy video's, doing complete suspension overhaul. Your humor making these is great. Thanks for all the effort..
Glad you enjoy them ckegman, we hope G enjoys wrenching on them as much as you enjoy watching them 😁
These videos are great! Are the torque specs similar on the F30 335i? I need to replace mine because driver side is seized.
Is there a video link for the rough diy alignment?
Great video, did this job last night. Referring to the Bentley Service Manual- (Steering Wheel Alignment 320-13) the torque spec on the Tie Rod to Steering Knuckle is 80 Nm ( 59 ft-lbs) not 175 NM. Tie Rod pinch bolt is 40Nm (30 ft-lb). I also found it easier to install the pinion side of the tie rod first and then tread on the knuckle side after.
Thank you for the video i am rebuilding a 2011 328i and have to change the tie rod assembly so the video really shows how simple the process is!! Many thanks!
#H4DES is back. This E9X has the M3 control arm upgrade that adds negative camber. So the jaws of life were used to get the (rusted) tie rods right for that wheel alignment...Fun. Anti-seize indeed. Too late. Looks like a shiny new wheel carrier too.
Remember to reassemble the inner outer tie rod ends with the bellows and small clamp...then the large clamp, before installing on the car. Would love to see the bloopers reel.
Wonder if Meyle makes a HD version of the tie rods for my E9X M3?
Yes, they do make them. They are the same as a regular 3 series or 1 series. Part numbers 3160200007/HD and 3160200008/HD. They have massive ball joints.
This guys got jokes man lol
So. SO. I see why xDrive weren't mentionned here. I tried to do the tie rods on my 335i xDrive today and wantes to see how different it was from the RWD cars. Turns out a part of the subframe is directly under the inner tie rod and steering rack connection. So I can't go under the car and simply use a channel lock to wrench out that nut, since there is now way to get to the nut from under.
If you try going above the subframe you also don't have enough. I suppose the solution is to order a 38mm crowfoot.
Thanks for the info!
@@Use2FACTAUTH
Hello, can I ask you about your experience with this job on the Xdrive ? How did you end up getting the inner tie rod nut off ? Was it the long tube style tool that slips right over the entire length of the inner tie rod which you ended up using or something else ? Any other advice / challenges / solutions to speak of ? Your help would be greatly appreciated .
@@ThunderbirdRocket luckily there was enough room to put a large pair or pliers on it to break it loose from the bottom. Just turn the steering wheel to full lock for better access. The tube type tool you’re talking about also works great if you want to go that route.
Also the tie rod boot clamps are a pain to get to and tighten properly. I used a pair of side cutters to tighten them but I’d recommend getting the special tool for clamping them. (Lisle 30600 “offset boot clamp pliers”) other than that it’s pretty straight forward
@@Use2FACTAUTH
Thanks for taking the time to help alfredo ! 👍🏼 I like the sounds of that - I’m going to try common tools for the inner tie rod nut with the steering wheel turned to create the extra space needed as you have advised . 👍🏼Might be purchasing the special Lisle clamp fastening tool - thanks for the tip and model number there . 👊🏼
@@ThunderbirdRocket no problem, goodluck!
Relatively the same for f30?
Double checking that this is compatible with a 2011 335i Convertible RWD...?
hi Gereth, I love your videos !! cool
I know you farted loosing that first bolt , lol.
What are the grooves for on the threads going into the steering rack?
Are the xdrives tie rods different or something? Cause they seem the exact same
For an E90 XDrive it's not the 20 mm it's the 15/16
Thanks for the note!
Another great DIY in the series! Next could you do a strut replacement?
Possibly!
So is this only for RWD?
Interested where you were measuring from for the 70 inches
Gareth, you rock! Thanks.
Is it different for x-drive models?
The same general idea, we cover them in our E9X front end refresh on an 08 Xdrive.
We Just did the control arms. Tie rods and sway bars are next. Control arms were no joke. But doable. It was fun! Thanks for helping us out!!!
So no thread lock on the inner tie rod to power steering?
Quick question. F25 X3, car tends to wander despite a 4-wheel alignment. No particular direction, just not settled on the freeway. Any ideas?
Car has 125k kilometers.
this is tough without access to the vehicle to test drive, the way the car behaves could vary depending on the issue. it could be something loose in the suspension allowing the alignment to vary, or even shifting belts in a tire. Non-alignment related it could be an anti-roll property not working properly, or even failing suspension
Going to have to be control arms / ball joint failure somewhere
@@fcpeurodue to mileage, I ended up replacing all suspension related parts (upper and lower control arms, ball joints, tie rods) short of dampeners and yet the problem still persists. Super frustrating
@@matthewmoser2090 thought so as well and ended up replacing it all (no dampeners however) and it's still happening.
tires likely. my elantra was diagnosed with tire separation. err, separation found on one or more of the tires. i'll see if replacing these old tires does the trick
Thanks to you I am now able to drive my car more they were going to charge me 1000 dollars just for tierods
Great Video! and I am sure everyone here has read all sorts of situations, here is mine: I took off the two tie rods, without marking right and left. Now I cannot figure out which one is left, and which one is right! Given that this is a 2007 car, and original tie rods, I cannot see any numbers stamped on it. Any tips on how to figure this out? I do understand that I can just install the new ones from FCP, which are clearly marked, and adjust them using the measuring tips in the "alignment overview" section, but I am still intrigued, how do you tell them apart? Thx
Anyone done thus on an e90 xdrive? I cant get a set of pliers on the inner tie rod to get it out and an adjustable wrench has no clearance... what size do I need for the tie rod tool? Looks to be about 1 1/2 in
We cover this in our E9x front control arm DIY! ua-cam.com/video/jY795gBK3oc/v-deo.html
What size Oetiker clamps should I use for this job? I gotta tackle this tomorrow and you guys have been awesome with everything. I believe I need both small and bigger.
Hi Ozzy, www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-pipe-clamp-32106765232 is the inner larger clamp, www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-hose-clamp-d-equals-194-225-32136756011 is the outer smaller one. Typically new bellows tend to include these as well.
@@fcpeuro y’all are awesome 🤝🏽
Gareth even knows how to pronounce Oetiker.
He's our expert in german and swiss pronunciation
3:50 HE SHITS HIMSELF RIGHT HERE
YES
@@fcpeuro HE OWNS IT.
Garreth,
Is the process the same with e90 2011 328i xDrive?
Hello , can I ask you if you found the answer to your question ? I’m also wondering ( I have the e90 Xdrive too ) . Any tips you can share , different steps / challenges would be greatly appreciated .
Can I ask you about the e90 Xdrive question … are there any different steps / challenges / tools required for the e90 Xdrive ? Any help you can share would be greatly appreciated .
@@ThunderbirdRocket
i rented the inner tie rod tool from Autozone. the rest is similar.
as long as you have the other basic tools. 🛠️ hooe that helps
Cool ! Thanks for taking the time to answer / comment ! That’s super helpful !
Do you think there is enough space to use the kind of inner tie rod tool that “strangles” the nut and you attach a ratchet right there at the location? (In others words the type of tool that doesn’t utilize the long pipe which brings the ratcheting tool closer to the wheel well ).
Where is the alignment link
08:11 "Just make sure that when you put the boot on, you also put the clamp on"
Proceeds not putting the clamp on 😀
*Great video, I just bought mine from Meyle HD(Part numbers 3160200007/HD and 3160200008/HD) and was going to change them next week along with the M3 control arms for my 1 series!
😁
Just used this video for my 2013 F30. Exactly the same rods. Thank you.
For the left and right tie rod , is Right Driver side and Left Passenger? Or reversed ?
Hi Seeker, when referring to L or R parts on a vehicle, it will always be from the driver's perspective. Left = driver's side. Right = passenger side.
Well done mate, you have saved a lot of heartache.
I had to cut them off, nuts came loose but the T40 was just spinning, old and rusty.
Question. What if the rack seal is leaking fluid and if I want to put new boot so that the fluid is not leaking. Would that be possible? I don't need it for long time, maybe just for 2 years that it survives. Eventually the boot will be filled with oil, would that mess something up with that ball joint (I know it requires grease instead of fluid, but it has similar properties I guess)?
LMAO replace the rack you can find low mileage used ones for not much money.
Got quoted $1000. Did it myself for 400 (that’s including alignment), thanks a bunch!!
woooh!
3:52 mark..... Please tell me that wasn't a fart????? If so that's hilarious!!!!!
He wouldn't confirm nor deny....😂😂
Great video guys. Love everything you do for your customers!
Good job! 😀
What size is his electrical torque wrench?
Hello. How can I order this kit from Canada ?
Hi Oleksandr, we do ship to Canada!
10/10
I just finished the job on a 2012 x1 awd and it was nearly identical. This was a fantastic tutorial to help me get the job done and you were right about the hose clamps. Pain in the but to reach in there especially on the awd. That was the hardest part really.
what was the difference on the awd
Is this similar to f30?