Ultra Square Medium Sized Crosscut Sled
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
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In This week’s woodworking build I show you how to make this ultra square medium sized crosscut sled paired with a Katz-Moses No Deflection Universal Stop Block. I use William Ng’s 5 cut method to square the fence. Having a crosscut sled in the shop is a MUST for any woodworker. They help you safely and repeatedly cross cut parts. They also create a zero clearance so you don’t get tear out. I got rid of my miter saw as soon as I built a good crosscut sled. I really can’t wait to see what you create! Let me know what you’d like to see next. Thanks for watching! Please like, comment and subscribe. Cheers!
Read the blog on this video: kmtools.com/bl...
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*Tamar’s Super Sled-* • SMALL Cross-Cut Sled w...
5-Cut Method Formula
((A-B)/4)/Length of Final Offcut = Error Per Inch
E.P.I. x Length from Pivot Screw To End of Fence = Total Distance you Move Fence
If Positive # - Move Away from User
If Negative # - Move Towards User
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*Get The No Deflection Universal Stop Block, Suizan Saws and Dovetail Jigs at The Katz-Moses Store-* bit.ly/KMWstore20
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*Very Easy 1 Runner Crosscut Sled* ua-cam.com/video/rky5j0wttfE/v-deo.html
*Tamar’s Super Sled-* ua-cam.com/video/McXJxYLXq-E/v-deo.html
*5-Cut Method Formula*
((A-B)/4)/Length of Final Offcut = Error Per Inch
E.P.I. x Length from Pivot Screw To End of Fence = Total Distance you Move Fence
If Positive # - Move Away from User
If Negative # - Move Towards User
*Here's a link to two 5 cut Method Calculators Sent by Viewers to Help Out* The second one starts with my numbers from the 2nd try in the video so you can compare what I did to yours.
windridgewoodcrafts.com/topics/five_cut/
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1G_j9__xYZN9IzWCciH8W2MTggQJUVJKUkTU6iNy1XVY/edit#gid=0
Great video! Thanks for trying to simplify the 5-cut method. Not sure how the pricing worked out a year ago, but for July 2021 the POWERTEC T-Track (same profile & predrilled holes) is very competitively priced. I don't work or advertise for them, and would prefer to support the little guy whenever possible.
T-Track 24" smile.amazon.com/dp/B07FF1Q16Q/
T-Track 36" smile.amazon.com/dp/B07FF29M4Y/
T-Track 48" smile.amazon.com/dp/B07FF6S889/
1
fyi I have a sawstop and emailed support and they said aluminum miter rails were fine since they are not touching the blade, so I installed aluminum rails and no problem
Jonathan, I am confused by this formula. Not by the math but thr recommendation on direction to move the fence. Your two links seem to contradict each other about which direction to move fence based on pivot point and sign of error. I think the one you present in this video might be the incorrect one. The first link is correct but second link pointing to a Google spreadsheet seems to be incorrect about direction of fence. This is all under the assumption that away from user means forward and towards user means backwards as far as moving the fence.
Thanks for all the kind words ☺️☺️
You deserve more you maniac!
You two rock!
Well deserved praise for Tamar
Tamar is ridiculous! Amazingly creative, if only my mind could get remotely close
@@katzmosestools Will your stop block work with the Kreg's Top Trak and measuring tape?
Have to agree with Jonathan-Tamar is fantastically creative and clever.
Absolute love the “we don’t hide our mistakes”. There are so many times when I feel defeated by a project so hearing these pros talk about their mistakes is really motivational in those times.
I also love the fact that he mentions how to fix it post-factum and how to avoid it in the first place. Very well spent 15 minutes on this video!
Finally ordered my stop block, don't know what I've been waiting for. Your videos have been so helpful over my last few years of woodworking, I appreciate all of the info you've been providing along the way!
YES!
Guys, Moses, Tamar ( 3x3 Custom ) , & Jason Hibbs ( Bourbon Moth Woodworking ) are the strongest You Tube channels to follow. I've been doing construction for over 22+ years and they have humbled me happily. With their ability to teach an old dog new tricks. Using Katz 5 cut calculator on his web site and Tamars sled blueprints. I got my sled squared down to 1/512". I am so damn excited. I could write a short story about the impact these 3 have had on me, but I'll simply say,
" Thank you guys "
The glue build-up on your apron could probably stop a bullet.
Trying to figure out how tall the make the fence. At 5:20 you say “just over 3/4 inch tall.” Looks like maybe just over 3 3/4”? Want to make it right the first time and read for a stop block down the road. Great video. Excited To make it.
Hey, I just got my KM Stop Block in the mail and measured the stop block height that Jonathan uses at 14:22 plus a little clearance above the sled and that comes out to 3 3/8" for the fence height. So, it looks he started with 3 3/4" and trimmed away a bit to get that final dimension.
In reply to other comments he has said that in the end his fence was 3 5/16" high.
Hopefully the wood deflects and not the level?
Good straight levels are expensive.
Empire box level. Good to go. Used to work for them :)
Yesterday I was chasing 90 degrees with no luck and realized I forgot to divide by 4. Today I got back at it and got to 0.00104 using playing cards. Thanks for the instruction!
To take the play out of the runners, just iron on a strip of melamine edge banding to the edges of the runners, trim off the excess and sand the edges. When waxed, the edge banding also runs smoothly. If slightly tight, just sand each side that was edged. Works for me. This is a good video and great for newcomers to woodworking!! Cheers from Australia.
William Ng cuts a blunt wedge on the front of his scrap wood to give a more positive interface with the feeler gauge. On the last sled I made I over did this and made that angle too tight which defeated the object as the point was a wee bit flakey, and I ended up needing two goes to get the fence down to .02mm after sanding the wedge to make the pointy bit firmer. However I am thinking that the next time I do this I'll use a DTI to measure the deflection as it is a) more accurate, and b) shows any movement when inserting the screw. I always clamp the fence before drilling and screwing, but even putting on the clamp can cause movement. A lot of engineering tools like DTIs, and 1-2-3 blocks can be super useful in a wood shop. I use 1-2-3 blocks to extend the range of my digital calipers for instance.
I'm going to use a corner on a 1-2-3 block when I make my next one.
I'm always amazed by the quality of plywood in videos. Even my woodworkers source does not carry ply with this many layers and no voids.
Look for Baltic Birch. WAY better than plywood.
I was thinking this exact same thing!
Perfect quarantine video! I should build a crosscut sled anyways.
Orders Katz-Moses Stopblock.
Gets Stopblock in mail along with heart dovetail sticker
Wife: You should make me one of those for my desk!
Back to the Katz-Moses store to buy a dovetail jig I guess...
Well played Johnathan....well played...
Hahahaha yes!
I’m a little confused. Could have sworn Ng said that if you end up with a negative number you have to push the fence forward. It looked like you pushed it forward with a positive number. Is that because you rotated the test board counter clockwise?
I haven't heard it in the video, is this a 3/4'' plywood? Does it even matter what thickness it is? Also, I'm glad you ship to Croatia too, I'll be making this jig as soon as the stop block arrives. Thank you for great content!
I have one complaint about the video. It was so well done that on my first cut I had a deflection of -.00105 so I didnt get to move the fence. Will buy one of your stop blocks, great video!!
Thanks Mr. Katz-Moses!!! I used your method to make my first cross-cut sled and got -0.0005 :) I’ll call it good enough!
Hey Jon! Thanks for the Video, I'm probably going to be buying one of the stop blocks, they've been REALLY tempting for a long time. It looked like you were putting a finish on at the end, what do you suggest for jigs?
This was asked before but I didn’t see a response. You have most of the sled on the right side of the blade, and you’re making your cuts from that side as well. Is this from habit with an older right-tilting saw or am I missing something?
To all the men out there who don't woodwork, happy mother's day.
Lol! I just got it 2 hours later
How’ up, are you calling men that don’t woodwork women or am I missing the actual joke.
Zills Bills - I think it wizzed past you! Took me a bit too!
2 things I recommend:
1. Check out newbiedan - he basically cuts through the sled with one runner. Then uses the cut edge, which is square to the blade and a ruler to square the fence. You may need adjustment but I followed it and got my square to .001. on the first try. Just be sure your ruler is square (my first one was not and caused lots of headaches). Just reattach the other half of the sled flush and run through the saw again.
2. Another vid I saw had some space behind the fence and put an L shaped metal bracket in which the hole was bigger than the screw. This let him make small adjustments to the fence without repeatedly drilling new holes. If you are making a sled for the first time, this can be very helpful if you aren't used to making the fine adjustments.
Simple, easy to fabricate. Great looking with the Baltic Birch plywood. Mathematics is not my forte sot it will take me more attempts.
Just wondering on the size you made it? Just got a heap of your gear today sent to Australia. Love it all and shipping was well priced. Many many thanks
Surprised at the use of hardwood for the runner material, as it's so prone to instability as opposed to something like UHMW plastic, which is not only more stable, but inherently slippery. Would love to hear your reason(s), and I submit this question with humility- I am a newbie, half garage, DeWalt 745 table saw aspiring wood worker. Cheers and thanks for sharing so much valuable knowledge. P.S.- my first 2 sled attempts used quarter sawn maple, the Q/S purple-heart. My current one uses Rockler aluminum mitre bars with adjustable nylon set screws. Nothing is perfect IMHO.
Hey Jonathan, I really enjoy your channel but recently I tried your reiteration of the five cut method, but it resulted in the error getting worse. I went to William Ng's channel and I managed to pick out the issue. If the epi is negative the fence is too much in the direction of the user but if its positive, then its too far away from the user. Hence if its negative it should move away from the user, and if its positive, it should move towards user. Anyways, I just wanted to make sure that those who go through the same problems don't bang their heads on the table. Cheers.
I also noticed it matters what side you put your cut piece on left or right side of the blade as well.
@@bshoff3 that only happens because your fence is not straightened, when you put your first cut in the fence, wood tension is released and it bends the fence a little, which will increase the chances of putting the sled out of square. Also, if you did not put enough screws on both sides of the cut in the middle of the fence, one will bend more than the other hence the square or not.
Another great video!....I have a continuing problem of my sleds warping, twisting, cupping...any suggestions for a material that will NOT warp?
I know this video is getting old but it’s the best one I could find on just how to do this. Here’s what I don’t get: we’re measuring cuts to the thousandth of an inch but we’re taking other measurements to the 32nd at best. Maybe my micrometer sucks but it won’t open wide enough to measure the length of the last cut and definitely not the distance between the pivot and the “temporary” screw. So I have to resort to tape measure or ruler and there’s no way to be .001 accurate with a rule. Also, I dont know about you but getting a screw to go in, no matter how carefully I pre-drill, with the accuracy of a few thousandths is something I have yet to achieve. I can get my back stop aligned and clamped with the force of Thor’s biceps but when I put the screw in, it will move enough to throw everything off. I can’t seem to get more accurate than about .005 but I thought .001 or less is considered “square”. I dunno. I don’t even know what is square anymore. Lol. No play in my runners. They are freaking tight.. maybe a little too tight but worth it for zero play.
5:46 You actually CAN cut aluminum on a SawStop by turning the key to override the brake system. When you power down after the cut, the brake will rearm itself automatically.
I’m definitely getting a lot wrong. I was cutting the wood on the left side of the blade and not the right side and therefore my minus and positive figures were back to front. Definitely a prize muppet moment
Just purchased your stop block and the T Track from your link. Thank you for all the vids you post. Just got out the army and I am 100 percent disabled and woodworking has just recently came into my life and I'm loving it. Keep posting great vids and coming out with great products.
Thank you for your service my guy!
Do you have any advice on the overall size of the sled? I have a mid-sized floor standing table saw. What is a comfortable width and depth for a general purpose sled? Do you center the amount on either side of the blade, or offset it a bit? Thanks!
For those intimidated by the math, don't be. If you're still not comfortable, or you want confirmation, here's a 5 cut calculator: www.jedidiahstolzfus.com/5-cuts-to-square-calculator/
Nice! Thanks bud!
@@katzmosestools No worries. I deal with a lot of day-to-day math so this formula seems easy to me, but it's easy to forget that not everybody is excited about doing algebra for fun. That's what happens when you write code for a living and marry a scientist.
Also, calculators are awesome and I like to share them.
Hey man I think you may have the -/+ backwards. If positive the fence is too high. If negative the fence is too low. So if your error is positive the fence must be moved toward you and vice versa for a negative error. At least that’s what I do and that’s what Mr. Ng says. maybe it’s opposite if you are rotating the other direction. 🤷♂️
This is what I have seen as well and when I get a positive number and moved the fence forward, it exacerbates the error. I think it’s the opposite - positive means you move the fence back and negative you move the fence forward.
JKM, you need to check out Hooked On Wood’s video on the beat zero clearance insert. He has figured it out!!
I’m not sure i heard the explanation, but using the 5 cut method essentially multiplies the error x4 which is why it is than divided by 4. the larger of a discrepancy you can create the math becomes more accurate (...the math doesn’t change but measurement and rounding inconsistencies are reduced) . So...with that in mind, the use of a larger scrap will further accentuate the error and will reduce measurement/adjustment inconsistencies.
all good points
Hi Katzs I’m looking at getting your stop block after Christmas. Just wanted to know do you ship to the U.K. many thanks steve.
Merry Christmas and happy new year to you and your family and everyone you work with i hope you all have a fantastic time 👍🏻👨🏼🦽🇬🇧
Awesome sled. I loved Tamars, but that that’s above my level. I really like the simplicity of yours. Those plastic strips Tamar used were great for the runners. Surprised you didn’t roll with that?
You should consider using UHMW Polyethylene runners instead of maple. Maple can change shape with humidity in the air, UHMWPE is for all intents and purposes inert to weather changes. UHMWPE is also super slippery (second only to PTFE [Teflon] and is self lubricating and highly abrasion resistant so your runners will not get worn down over time. Maple as hard as it is will wear on the edges of your miter slot and become sloppy over time. There is one drawback to UHMWPE, securing the runners to the bottom of the sled is more challenging as most adhesives will not stick to UHMWPE, two part epoxy is the exception and mechanical fasteners.
I bought one of JKM's stop blocks, and love it....if you don't have one...get one!!!
I made my own version combining this and Tamar’s ideas (no extra fence, it’s not that useful). I then set up to do the 5 cut on my sled. My final cutoff was dead square to the thousandth. No adjustment needed.
So I’m quitting the wood game.
I’ll never make anything that perfect again.
I’d love a hinged version of the Katz-Moses stop block though. Might convince me to start back up.
Hello Jonathan ! Nice video, thanks for it!
I built my sled and got a good alignment. I applied wax to the sled base to make it slide more easily, but it only worked for the first week. Now it runs with difficulty, as if it were heavier. I waxed the top of my Dewalt dwe-7492 saw but the situation got even worse. Any suggestions on how to get the sled to slide with ease? Note: I used a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax (50/50).
Epic Woodworking has a video on the 3-Cut Method. Exact same process and results as the 5-Cut Method, it just eliminates 2 extraneous steps, AND there's no math or formulae involved.
Alright I'm here. Nobody panic. Got Mother's Day festivities going. Sorry I'm late.
Love the build. Only thing I did different is put 2 T-tracks running parallel to the runners so I could add more clamping options. Also a safety block for the blade coming through is worth mentioning.
Thank God! We were worried about you!
😂😂😂 👍
Greetings JKM or rather G'Day mate from Oz.
Strange question - am I right in thinking that I can use the five cut method to check the accuracy of my mitre gauge as well?
Regards and thanks to you for sharing your expertise,
Cam
Serious question.. why use such a complicated way to square up the fence? I’ve made many just squaring up with the blade. All of mine have been exactly 90 doing this and it takes 2 seconds.
Clamping to a level gives you perfect flat glue-ups…OR a bend in your level. Be careful huh, those layers of 18mm ply might be more bend resistant than your alooooominum spirit level (depending on the level’s construction and how many 18mm layers you use).
After watching all of your sled videos, I couldn’t determine why or why not use aluminum or HDPE for runners/miter bar?
What would you recommend if you wanted a 45degree bevel reference on this as well? Maybe add a third miter rail and cut a secondary reference line or is that not necessary?
I have a way to square up the fence that is a lot more complex than he showed and will get it like 1000% more square. And I am kidding because this is ridiculous that you have to take a Moses certification class online to square your fence. Take a square, square your blade then cut through sled and with blade high take square to square your fence based on blade and screw fence in place the end 2 minutes. If you can get the fence to be 0.0000004% more square with this all day project and mind bender does it really make that much of a difference.
Am I missing something or…?? It went from the runners straight to the 5 cut process. Did this vid hv a section on the actual sled being cut. I realize its pretty self-explanatory step but I’m sure there’s folks out there that wouldn’t mind having that part of it explained. I am building my second one and looking around for any ideas n noticed this vid skipped that part. I guess this vid is not made for the beginner level….??
Hi. The 5 cut method and your calculator also works on panel sleds (where the fence is on the front rather than the back)... However in order for it to give you the correct direction where to move the fence , the "A" Measurement should be the side CLOSEST to you and "B" Measurement is the one furthest from you , otherwise it tells you to adjust the fence in the incorrect direction - cheers
I have this stop block this is the best on the market
I just got a KM stop block today and then I checked and this video came out. I need to make a cross cut sled too. The KM channel knows all.
So I just built my first cross cut sled and tried the 5 cut method. My fence was off by 0.010", leave it or nudge it with feeler gauges?
Did you have the final dimensions of the sled and plywood thickness you used in the video?
3/4 and roughly 3x2
@@katzmosestools Awesome thanks!
Came here to ask the same thing, thanks!
And just like that the salesman for red t track was jobless!!! Great video as usual. I love my stop block and Tamars videos.
Ive learned that blue painters tape can also help take out most play in the runners if you don’t have veneer
Yeah I was going to do that but I seconded guessed myself on the long term durability
When u cut dado for t track how far back from front edge was the cut, ordering your stop and want to build sled prior. You said 3/4 on height I assume it is 3 3/4? Keep up the great work love your channel
3 1/4 for the height but if you read the product description there is 4 possible heights (cut slightly taller by 1/16-1/8) . I didn't measure how far back I cut the dado. Maybe 1/2 to 3/4. My stop has so much travel back and forth that it isn't critical.
Thanks stop looks awesome I wrote comment before the end of video... doh!!!
How tall is the fence? I haven't gotten my stop block in the mail yet, so I can't use it as a reference. Your video says "just over 3/4 of an inch", but looking at the ruler it looks around 3 3/4. How much over 3 3/4?
3 and 5/16
Super frustrating that I'm making my third sled and the rails won't line up after screwing them in. Lined up fine while glued, add screws and they shift, even with clamping and pre drilling holes.
I just made a new crosscut sled and will try this method. Had to get one of your stop blocks as well and it is excellent!
When I did this, I happened to accidentally get the angle dead on, so when i checked with this i was like, dude you missed something. did it 3 times was off by .0002 beginners luck i guess
At 5:15 you say your going to make the difference 3/4" tall. But it looks way taller than that. What an I missing?
So this has inspired me to build a new sled, smaller and more convenient than my current oversized beast.
One step that gets glossed over a bit....how high to set the blade when making the cut through the entire sled? It says just above the base, but surely you'll need to make cuts on thicker stock than that?
I've always raised mine to full height to accommodate whatever stock I might have to cut...because I want the blade at maximum height when I put the sled down on the table, as I may not have room on the sled (like if I have a wider board) to raise the blade once the sled is in place.
(BTW, built a smallish sled today following the approach of the video. My first 5-cut test result said "Adjust your fence by 0.001 (1/1024) inches..." so I guess I'm done. 🙂)
Was it you that shared the name of the place where we can purchase discounted / slightly blemished squares? If so, where?
So should I have a second dedicated sled for 45º cuts?
I would love to buy your stop block, but I only do PayPal n online purchases. Any chance you have that capability?
Could you have fixed the wiggle by cutting a slot in the runner and using a screw to micro adjust the width?
Excellent, I was just thinking I needed to make a full sled. Time to buy another stop-block.
Nice! And yes I believe it is time.
hey Jonathan if its a + number isn't supposed go towards the user and - number away from user??
Did I miss a chamfered/sanded corner of the back fence bottom inward edge for sawdust clearing?
Are the screws on the runners even needed? I just made mine and the screws slightly made the runners buldge where they screwed in. Seems like some CA glue and wood glue would be fine.
The URL in your description for the stop block is wrong.
great video and content , ive just go tthe festool csc 50 which only had one track any addition tips you can give me on a build of a sled , thx
I like the idea of clamping to a level. I use one of the cast iron tables (saw, jointer etc.) when at my Menz shed, but I don't have a super flat surface at home. Even the job site saw I have at home is way off flat, and the aluminium table would pull out of shape if clamped to anyway. I've seen some of Tamar's videos, but if JKM is impressed by her, then I can see I need to binge watch my way through her entire channel.
She's so amazing
instead of using a screw on the opposite end of the pivot screw, you could put a threaded insert at the end of the fence and thread in a bolt to clamp the moving end of the fence. No need to screw and rescrew.
3 5/16 high backstop to work with your stop block. Thank you
I wanna make one with acrylic fences. Seems like that would be the easiest way to prevent movement over time
Nathan Terepocki I am about to try make one off SRBF F2 sheet , have 6#4
Do you have a link for that countersink bit? I just broke the one I was using and didn't love it to start with so I want to try something new
I got a .0019 on first 5 cut test...excuse me while I go get a few lotto tickets!!
Too much math takes out all the fun. A square off the blade is my go to. Never had an issue.
Make both fences identical and it can double as a router sled base for people without a thicknesser!
Appreciate the precision that goes into your work, and the effort that goes into your videos. Nice work!
I used your on line 5 cut calculator and every time the results were worse. So I watched the William Ng video again and he said to move the fence in the opposite direction that you explained. Then I saw a link to this video and it became clear that you are cutting on the opposite side of the blade, which means one should move the fence in the opposite direction. I got away without any extra holes in the bottom of the sled/fence by routing a 3/8" X 1/2" X 3" slot in the bottom of the sled to clamp the fence with a Microjig clamp each time I had to move it. I ended up with a .0009" error after starting over.
Correct our five cut method calculator makes this clear in the instructions on our website. Side of the blade matters. Cheers
Just curious, what are the actual dimensions of your sled?
When I made mine I predrilled a series of pocket holes on the fence. I used one or two to get it square (5 cut method) then fastened it down with the remaining holes.
Why is my error getting bigger? Oh, I moved the fence in the wrong direction when negative.
The price on the t-track is awesome! I didn't have a source for it before but I think I do now.
got mine to -0.00036 . Not too shabby i think, haha! Thanks for the helpful video!👊🏻
Hey Jonathan - I don't see any plans or mention of the dimensions you used? Care to share?
No chamfer at the bottom of the fence to catch dust buildup? I've seen that in other sled builds.
I have several reasons. 1 I think it traps more dust than anything. 2 I think is a bigger problem when you use a home made stop block because dust gets trapped between you block and the fence. My stop allows clearance for dust. 3 you no longer can accurately cut pieces with angled edges accurately because the edge slips into your beveled edge inconsistently.
Basically I think it has some merit but I think it cause more problems than it solves. Its way easier to quickly blow dust away from a perfect 90 corner than it is to try and fish it out of a tiny beveled recess.
Remember, Jonathan has a decent dust collection setup so what collects in his setup would be easily managed between cuts. But...us garage woodworkers need all the help we can get so chamfer it if it suits your individual situation. Do keep in mind, sometimes a small dust groove can cause some headaches when cutting very thin materials like veneers and laminates.
Couldn't you bend the sprit level by clamping it to your work like that? I know they are tough but over time I wonder what would happen to them.
With that level of deflection/force, it won't permanently deform
Great video and good explanation. However I understand that the interpretation of negative or positive result is totally opposite of William Ng's explanation. That is that William Ng says that if the result is negative you have to move the fence away from you (the user...). You tell me that if negative than move the fence towards the user. So I am a little confused here.
It would be very helpful to clarify this.
Sorry for making my own answer to my own question. At least I think it is an answer. I think it matters if you cut the piece of wood on the right side of the blade (as you did) or on the left side (as William Ng did). And if both Top and Bottom are kept the same then if right side cutting results in a positive outcome then the left side cutting will result in an negative outcome. And this means move the fence away from you. As you said.
I really enjoyed and learned a lot from your video. Just finished my sled using your stop block and now will spend time to make sled square with fence. Can’t believe that after all these years I did not have a sled with the features to make the work more precise and enjoyable.
Thank you...love your stop block. Bob
I respectfully love your last name.
guess i got really lucky. i got .001 on my first try!
Could I just use a square to square the blade to the back fence or is that not a good idea
Looks like a great sled so ... I'm finally* getting around to building a sled for my contractor-type table saw (20 year old Ridgid TS2424).
Cutting the baltic birch for the back and front fences, I'm getting burning in the cuts.
I checked the blade and fence parallel to the miter slot and both are
I bought your stop block. Nice! I also bought the cheaper t track you suggested. The track attachment screws were run in almost perfectly, but not 100% perfectly, and the cap screws you furnish with your stop block interfere with the countersunk t track screw heads, rendering you stop block unable to slide along the t track. Should be a better clearance tolerance for slightly less than perfect countersunk t track screws. I solved my situation by grinding down the head of your cap screws.
A comment on your sled assembly process - when you removed the non- pivot screw from the underside of the sled, you correctly left the whole sled on the saw. While you didn’t mention that, it’s important step. I removed my sled from my saw to make the adjustment on my bench, and adjusted the fence the 5-cut calculated amount. I go to put the sled back on the saw, and it would not budge along the slots. Guessing that removal of the screw allowed the sled to spread apart/narrow a little, rendering the slots no longer registered with my sawtop. Ugh!
Great video and great timing, too. I've been using your single miter slot version for a while but ran into a little problem with thicker cutting boards splintering the last 1/16th of an inch or so due to the weight of the unsupported cutoff. I was just checking to see if you had a double runner version to take care of this. Also, enjoying your stop block for making sure the cutting board strips are uniformly sliced.
I have a simple 5 cut calculator at windridgewoodcrafts.com/topics/five_cut/ that will save your sharpies.
Thanks bud! Just added your calculator to the pinned comment