Started the belts on my 182 thanks to your video 👍 Also needs the cam cover leak dealt with. Found the crank pulley keyed, so need to amend the process a bit.
Thanks mate 👌 It didn’t make 200bhp, dyno was yesterday 😭😭😭 next weeks video lol Water pump is run off the aux belt so not as crucial as say a VAG set-up, I did replace it 4 years ago, has only done 3,000 miles since 😅
Hello i see that you are in to renaults and maybe you can halp me. My harmonic balancer failed. And i undone the bolt with inpact gun. I didnt know that some renaults doesnt have noch on the crank pulley. My car is megane 2 2000cc 136hp f4r. did you know if it has noch on the pulley and the timing is ok?
Once the pulley is off you should be able to see the woodruff key (if it’s fitted or not) sadly if it’s not fitted and you’ve tried to start the engine it will have bent valves
@@stoneautomotive It doesnt have woodruff key. The shop that did the timing belt didnt put it. And the car run fine. There is a mark done by the shop and the crank pulley didnt move. Im going to get timing tools see if everything is in place and assemble the car without woodruff key
The Haynes manual for the Lag 2.0 Litre clearly states and I quote. The design of the camshaft and crankshaft timing belt sprockets are slightly unusual in that no method of positive location of the sprockets (such as that afforded by a Woodruff key) is employed..
Nice video and nice car. I own a blue 172 ph2 too. Managed to get my timing as good as it can be, horseshoe rattling about in the cams, and now more overall torque and a nice extra kick between 5k an 6k. Anyone reading this and about to change their kits, MAKE SURE ONLY ORIGINAL RENAULT TOOLS ARE USED! Trust me! Like the ones in the video! All of them! The non OEM tools arent precise enough and the horseshoes bend. They have slack in the cams and on the crank. You will regret it! The original horseshoe is VERY tough and the original pin fits really precisely in the crank. Also check that you're really at TDC by looking for the line mark carved in the flyweel. It should line to the "0" line in the gearbox case. Check the opening below the crank position sensor! You will understand. Check the video at 11:09
Thanks for the video, epic work 🙌. Helping me get head around the job after looking at the Renault manual. Mind was blown until working out the pulleys are not keyed 😂. Going to attempt it on my 182., with air con. Quick question, what's holding the crank while tightening the crank pulley? Renault manual mentions a tool or sticking a big flat blade driver in somewhere. Is it safe to tighten against the crank locking pin? Thanks again 👍
I was shocked when I discovered that my K4M 862's whole timing assemble hold on just one bolt and I'm even more shocked that the sport version has the same. The magic of newton meters!
If all de-greased and tightened correctly I’ve never seen one slip/ move on naturally aspirated builds 😬👍 Fit a super charger to an F4R though and I have seen the crank pulley slip 🫠
Great video! Videos like this are priceless in helping home mechanics like myself. I do mine myself but I remove the engine to do mine. A bit of an initial ball ache but it makes life immeasurably easier, and I always fit a new water pump at the same time.
It’s a much more enjoyable job out of the car that’s for sure 👍 Water pump was changed at the last belt swap 4 years ago, hadn’t even covered 4,000 miles so it was staying in place this time 😅
Just curious if there was a reason why you didn’t add a woodruff key to the crank pulley or the reenforced timing cover that people seem to recommend? I only heard about these upgrades after I’d done mine but wish I’d done them for extra peace of mind
@@gregorrose8935 I didn’t add one as it doesn’t need one 😅 if the bolts within spec and the correct torque is applied I’ve never seen an NA Clio move one! On the other hand if it’s super charged it’s a must as the drag on the super charger can slip the pulley
It had a brand new Renault item fitted at the last cambelt change 4 years ago, hadn’t even done 2,000 miles so seemed pointless changing (seen originals cover over 100k without failing on many occasions)
Fantastic video, what was the difference between the pulley lock up for the vvt and not vvt? And how did you lock up the crank to tighten the bolt and slacken the pin without bending the timing pin?
The non vvt is done the same as the exhaust pulley (30nm and 90 degrees from memory) The crank is locked with a lever bar but found it impossible on your own to hold it under tension. Never bent a Renault crank locking pin, wouldn’t do it with a patten one mind.
@@stoneautomotive I did the dephazer on my car this weekend, I have an aftermarket TDC pin so I didn't risk it BUT I found the perfect lock up tool is a 6mm allen key in the ring gear window, stays in on its own. Maybe you could try it and see what you think.
Hiya mate, I’ve done exactly what you’ve done and I had to change the ECU too/ injectors and so on. I’ve done it and timing seems to be fine and turns over with loads of compression by hand but as soon as I turn it over with the ignition it has compression for the first cycle and then just spins the starter motor with no compression
Hi, anyone know how to centralize the exhaust cam sprocket on to the camshaft, there is about 3mm of movement ?, feels like there should be a small shim that would slide over the exhaust cam bolt to take up the slack when putting the cam sprocket back on....when i finally tightened the bolts after fitting the belt the exhaust cam sprocket is bobbing up and down with each revolution
The exhaust camshaft should have a tight tolerance to the exhaust pulley, sounds like you’ve either fitted the wrong pulley or camshaft I’m afraid.. or your not working on a Renault sport 172/ 182 😅
@@stoneautomotive it's a 172 cup, had it a while..Decided to do belt change change because of slight misfire, bouncing timing advance on tickover fluctuating between 5 and 18 tdc and a noticable loss of low to mid torque,...Ex hill climb car that's been mapped with v6 airbox, sports cat etc, been a pain in the arse. Changeg tappets and cams, also mated up the pulley to the old cam to make sure i wasn't going mad and exactly the same amount of movement. Do you think making a shim from a piece of tube would work, similar to a spigot ring spacer used in wheel fitting ? Followed your guide, got proper tools etc.. Thanks for the reply anyway fella
@@creedynotechnique have you tried seating the pulley without the belt in place to test fit the pulley? Really sounds like it’s just not going back onto the exhaust camshaft in that case
Great video... You mention that you do/did this job a lot. Like many 1*2 owners these days, my Clio gets minimal use. In fact there's just over 1000 miles on it since the last time I did the belts, however that was 4 years ago. What are your thoughts on replacing the belts [particularly the cambelt] based on elapsed time alone ? In other words, replacing the belt even though the belt will have done a tiny fraction of it's lifing.
Hi, Sadly the lack of use/ mileage is worse for the cambelt as it goes brittle and starts to retain the shape of how it’s been parked. I did about 3,000 miles on the last belt in 5 years and to be honest it still looked in good order when removed but with the price of used F4R engines going through the roof I certainly wouldn’t push it past the factory time frames
Awesome job. Enough technical info in there without crapping on. I do have a quick question though... If someone may have bought the 'upgraded' (keyed) Meg bottom sprocket, how does one do complete that step where you had the crank and cams locked, but were moving the belt around to even it out? I've gone and made things difficult for myself, haven't I... Thanks for sharing your knowledge. It's long way in between blokes that know this stuff in Australia. Also, i didnt see exactly which of the locking gears you were using, as there were two different ones? I borrowed a set of the Renault tools from a friend, but they are all jumbled up...
Glad you appreciated the video 👍 I’ve heard the RS Clio’s are very rare in Oz so hopefully the video helps a few! The only time I would ever advise the woodruffed crank pulled would be on a super charged application so much easier to go back to the original 😅 You’ll see how the pulleys work once on, if you don’t use the “longer cog” one it will pull the exhaust pulley trim away.
Great video, do the same rules apply to the clio 200? I’m replacing the depasher pulley aswell Do you know if all the torques are the same for the 200? Thanks
Slightly different process with the Clio 200 but not a million miles apart in the process 👍 Pass on the torque settings, been a long time since I’ve done a 200
Great Video! I was wondering how did you lock the crankshaft for tighten the crank pulley ? Did you only use the pin? And I also have the problem that every time I set the right position for the horseshoe the cams slightly rotate backwards. Maybe you have an idea how to keep the cams in place. Thanks!
Thanks 😎 Officially your supposed to support the flywheel with a lever bar but I’ll be honest your not doing that on your own and even with two the flex in the bar etc would loose any support as the pin holds it dead straight. Again this is the importance of using the genuine locking tools as I’ve never bent a Renault crank pin 👍 The camshafts do move but also have a small amount of resistance so can be position by hand one at a time with the horse shoe and then the bar will go straight in without any real force to rest them 👍
Super helpful thanks for posting. Just changed belts all went well and your video gives those nice tips and tricks that aren't in the renault instructions.
Well done. Not too much material on Yt about this. Went thru this ca year ago with 172 and some solutions in this engine compartment really made me scratch my head. Thanks for posting👍👍
Thanks and glad you enjoyed the video 😎 Once your familiar with the process it’s certainly not the worst job just many advising of the incorrect process sadly.
Thank you 😎👍 Sadly I don’t offer service work these days except for close friends, not having a proper workshop makes it hard work but hopefully the videos help a few out 👍
Really good video, I have seen a few of these on UA-cam but it seems you have taken a bit more time and done it the right way....credit to you and thanks for the time and effort its nice to see things done properly you made it look easy ....But i am sure its not just your talent and experience
Glad you enjoyed the video 😎 Yea done a few of these and they’re certainly not a bad job if you take your time and use the correct locking tools 👍 Sadly there’s a few videos out advising the wrong process so hopefully mine keeps a few in good working order 😬
@@stoneautomotive all good. Its the retainer cap thing giving me problems. Its got angled sides so you can't use a spanner. I think its torx ended tho but its getting a ratchet and bit between it and the wheel arch thats causing me problems. Might have to resort to mole grips.
Thanks for the video , I have a project 172 that I started the belt change some time ago I just need to tighten the pulleys now I am going to. The six turns give me the confidence to finish.
Any tips on how to remove a water pump bolt ? Some num nut use a socket or a ring to tighten it and have rounded it off. I have a replacement and can remove the others it just such a bad spot.@@stoneautomotive
@@MrBrenden830 as long as the engine is jacked up as high as it can go the water pump replacement is not the worst job but if you’ve rounded the bolts off your in for some head ache now sadly ☹️
well what can i say just another great interesting video pretty long one at that but enjoyed every single minute of it mate im learning something bit by bit everytime
Probably a little to much detail for normal viewing but if some one fancies a DIY belt change it has the details covered 😬 One more Renault one and then it’s back to BMW’s 😅
@@stoneautomotive no mate im enjoying this longer video i find it really interesting and like you say its good for someone that wants to do the diy same as your self 😉👌ps looking forward to more bmw contents aswell 😁👍
UA-cam gold. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Glad you enjoyed 😎
I think this is the first one I’ve seen on UA-cam where it’s been done properly!
Thanks Neil 👍😎
Started the belts on my 182 thanks to your video 👍 Also needs the cam cover leak dealt with. Found the crank pulley keyed, so need to amend the process a bit.
Hi, you said that you can reuse crank bolt. Do you know can i reuse flywheel bolts?
You will need to check the manual if there’s a stretch tolerance for re-using, from memory (few years back now) I always replaced them
Brilliant video! Well produced and informative. Fingers crossed you crack that 200bhp+ Did you not need to change the water pump as well?
Thanks mate 👌
It didn’t make 200bhp, dyno was yesterday 😭😭😭 next weeks video lol
Water pump is run off the aux belt so not as crucial as say a VAG set-up, I did replace it 4 years ago, has only done 3,000 miles since 😅
@@stoneautomotive Ahh ok! shame you didn't crack the 200 but i'm sure you got very close to it. Looking forward to the dyno video next week.
Hello i see that you are in to renaults and maybe you can halp me. My harmonic balancer failed. And i undone the bolt with inpact gun. I didnt know that some renaults doesnt have noch on the crank pulley. My car is megane 2 2000cc 136hp f4r. did you know if it has noch on the pulley and the timing is ok?
Once the pulley is off you should be able to see the woodruff key (if it’s fitted or not) sadly if it’s not fitted and you’ve tried to start the engine it will have bent valves
@@stoneautomotive It doesnt have woodruff key. The shop that did the timing belt didnt put it. And the car run fine. There is a mark done by the shop and the crank pulley didnt move. Im going to get timing tools see if everything is in place and assemble the car without woodruff key
The Haynes manual for the Lag 2.0 Litre clearly states and I quote.
The design of the camshaft and crankshaft timing belt sprockets are slightly unusual in that no method of positive location of the sprockets (such as that afforded by a Woodruff key) is employed..
Nice video and nice car. I own a blue 172 ph2 too.
Managed to get my timing as good as it can be, horseshoe rattling about in the cams, and now more overall torque and a nice extra kick between 5k an 6k.
Anyone reading this and about to change their kits, MAKE SURE ONLY ORIGINAL RENAULT TOOLS ARE USED! Trust me! Like the ones in the video! All of them!
The non OEM tools arent precise enough and the horseshoes bend. They have slack in the cams and on the crank. You will regret it!
The original horseshoe is VERY tough and the original pin fits really precisely in the crank.
Also check that you're really at TDC by looking for the line mark carved in the flyweel. It should line to the "0" line in the gearbox case. Check the opening below the crank position sensor! You will understand. Check the video at 11:09
Thanks 👍
Yep the after market tools are rubbish! Seen so many out of time when they have been used for cambelt replacement
Thanks for the video, epic work 🙌.
Helping me get head around the job after looking at the Renault manual. Mind was blown until working out the pulleys are not keyed 😂.
Going to attempt it on my 182., with air con.
Quick question, what's holding the crank while tightening the crank pulley? Renault manual mentions a tool or sticking a big flat blade driver in somewhere. Is it safe to tighten against the crank locking pin?
Thanks again 👍
Officially you’re supposed to lock the crank with a lever bar, I’ve never had an issue doing it with the genuine crank pin!
I was shocked when I discovered that my K4M 862's whole timing assemble hold on just one bolt and I'm even more shocked that the sport version has the same. The magic of newton meters!
If all de-greased and tightened correctly I’ve never seen one slip/ move on naturally aspirated builds 😬👍
Fit a super charger to an F4R though and I have seen the crank pulley slip 🫠
Great video! Videos like this are priceless in helping home mechanics like myself.
I do mine myself but I remove the engine to do mine. A bit of an initial ball ache but it makes life immeasurably easier, and I always fit a new water pump at the same time.
It’s a much more enjoyable job out of the car that’s for sure 👍
Water pump was changed at the last belt swap 4 years ago, hadn’t even covered 4,000 miles so it was staying in place this time 😅
I wish I had this video for reference when I changed mine back in lockdown
Hopefully watching it you didn’t have any “oh I didn’t do that” moments 😅
Just curious if there was a reason why you didn’t add a woodruff key to the crank pulley or the reenforced timing cover that people seem to recommend? I only heard about these upgrades after I’d done mine but wish I’d done them for extra peace of mind
@@gregorrose8935 I didn’t add one as it doesn’t need one 😅 if the bolts within spec and the correct torque is applied I’ve never seen an NA Clio move one!
On the other hand if it’s super charged it’s a must as the drag on the super charger can slip the pulley
@@stoneautomotivesounds legitimate 👍 thanks again
Why the water pump haven’t been change after so much work?
It had a brand new Renault item fitted at the last cambelt change 4 years ago, hadn’t even done 2,000 miles so seemed pointless changing (seen originals cover over 100k without failing on many occasions)
Fantastic video, what was the difference between the pulley lock up for the vvt and not vvt? And how did you lock up the crank to tighten the bolt and slacken the pin without bending the timing pin?
The non vvt is done the same as the exhaust pulley (30nm and 90 degrees from memory)
The crank is locked with a lever bar but found it impossible on your own to hold it under tension. Never bent a Renault crank locking pin, wouldn’t do it with a patten one mind.
@@stoneautomotive I did the dephazer on my car this weekend, I have an aftermarket TDC pin so I didn't risk it BUT I found the perfect lock up tool is a 6mm allen key in the ring gear window, stays in on its own. Maybe you could try it and see what you think.
Hiya mate, I’ve done exactly what you’ve done and I had to change the ECU too/ injectors and so on. I’ve done it and timing seems to be fine and turns over with loads of compression by hand but as soon as I turn it over with the ignition it has compression for the first cycle and then just spins the starter motor with no compression
RPD are our of the aux belt kits and the aircon car kits. Any ideas where else we could get them?
There’s a few genuine kits on eBay but seem to be all the money 😱
@stoneautomotive yeah clio parts have gone mad. The pms 200 cell cat was £250 two years ago.... now its £450?!
Very helpful video. Thankyou very much. Gives me a little more confidence now doing mine 👍
Hi, anyone know how to centralize the exhaust cam sprocket on to the camshaft, there is about 3mm of movement ?, feels like there should be a small shim that would slide over the exhaust cam bolt to take up the slack when putting the cam sprocket back on....when i finally tightened the bolts after fitting the belt the exhaust cam sprocket is bobbing up and down with each revolution
The exhaust camshaft should have a tight tolerance to the exhaust pulley, sounds like you’ve either fitted the wrong pulley or camshaft I’m afraid.. or your not working on a Renault sport 172/ 182 😅
@@stoneautomotive it's a 172 cup, had it a while..Decided to do belt change change because of slight misfire, bouncing timing advance on tickover fluctuating between 5 and 18 tdc and a noticable loss of low to mid torque,...Ex hill climb car that's been mapped with v6 airbox, sports cat etc, been a pain in the arse. Changeg tappets and cams, also mated up the pulley to the old cam to make sure i wasn't going mad and exactly the same amount of movement. Do you think making a shim from a piece of tube would work, similar to a spigot ring spacer used in wheel fitting ? Followed your guide, got proper tools etc.. Thanks for the reply anyway fella
@@creedynotechnique have you tried seating the pulley without the belt in place to test fit the pulley? Really sounds like it’s just not going back onto the exhaust camshaft in that case
Will try that tomorrow, cheers
Great video... You mention that you do/did this job a lot. Like many 1*2 owners these days, my Clio gets minimal use. In fact there's just over 1000 miles on it since the last time I did the belts, however that was 4 years ago. What are your thoughts on replacing the belts [particularly the cambelt] based on elapsed time alone ? In other words, replacing the belt even though the belt will have done a tiny fraction of it's lifing.
Hi,
Sadly the lack of use/ mileage is worse for the cambelt as it goes brittle and starts to retain the shape of how it’s been parked.
I did about 3,000 miles on the last belt in 5 years and to be honest it still looked in good order when removed but with the price of used F4R engines going through the roof I certainly wouldn’t push it past the factory time frames
Awesome job. Enough technical info in there without crapping on. I do have a quick question though... If someone may have bought the 'upgraded' (keyed) Meg bottom sprocket, how does one do complete that step where you had the crank and cams locked, but were moving the belt around to even it out? I've gone and made things difficult for myself, haven't I... Thanks for sharing your knowledge. It's long way in between blokes that know this stuff in Australia. Also, i didnt see exactly which of the locking gears you were using, as there were two different ones? I borrowed a set of the Renault tools from a friend, but they are all jumbled up...
Glad you appreciated the video 👍 I’ve heard the RS Clio’s are very rare in Oz so hopefully the video helps a few!
The only time I would ever advise the woodruffed crank pulled would be on a super charged application so much easier to go back to the original 😅
You’ll see how the pulleys work once on, if you don’t use the “longer cog” one it will pull the exhaust pulley trim away.
Great video, do the same rules apply to the clio 200? I’m replacing the depasher pulley aswell
Do you know if all the torques are the same for the 200?
Thanks
Slightly different process with the Clio 200 but not a million miles apart in the process 👍
Pass on the torque settings, been a long time since I’ve done a 200
Tight Tight stuff.. blimey they pack it in.
Thankfully I didn't try this myself, but took it to Clioman, Littlehampton excuse the plug.
Yep not spoilt for room in that engine bay 😅
Great Video! I was wondering how did you lock the crankshaft for tighten the crank pulley ? Did you only use the pin? And I also have the problem that every time I set the right position for the horseshoe the cams slightly rotate backwards. Maybe you have an idea how to keep the cams in place. Thanks!
Thanks 😎
Officially your supposed to support the flywheel with a lever bar but I’ll be honest your not doing that on your own and even with two the flex in the bar etc would loose any support as the pin holds it dead straight. Again this is the importance of using the genuine locking tools as I’ve never bent a Renault crank pin 👍
The camshafts do move but also have a small amount of resistance so can be position by hand one at a time with the horse shoe and then the bar will go straight in without any real force to rest them 👍
Super helpful thanks for posting. Just changed belts all went well and your video gives those nice tips and tricks that aren't in the renault instructions.
Glad you enjoyed the video and managed to get your belts changed 😎👌
Brilliant fingers crossed for 200 plus!
Well done. Not too much material on Yt about this. Went thru this ca year ago with 172 and some solutions in this engine compartment really made me scratch my head. Thanks for posting👍👍
Thanks and glad you enjoyed the video 😎
Once your familiar with the process it’s certainly not the worst job just many advising of the incorrect process sadly.
Very nice cup! I have had one for nearly 10 years.. would love for it to go to someone like yaself n get some love ❤
Thank you 😎👍
Sadly I don’t offer service work these days except for close friends, not having a proper workshop makes it hard work but hopefully the videos help a few out 👍
I might be getting a kangoo 172, i know it will need recomissioning and belts etc who would you recommend?
Andy at Engine Dynamics, he’s even mapped one recently with some trick bits 😎
Really good video, I have seen a few of these on UA-cam but it seems you have taken a bit more time and done it the right way....credit to you and thanks for the time and effort its nice to see things done properly you made it look easy ....But i am sure its not just your talent and experience
Glad you enjoyed the video 😎
Yea done a few of these and they’re certainly not a bad job if you take your time and use the correct locking tools 👍
Sadly there’s a few videos out advising the wrong process so hopefully mine keeps a few in good working order 😬
Where is the best place to get the Renault locking tool. Do Renault stock it, I have the 7* cam tool but I need the locking pin also.
Hi,
Yes Renault stock the locking tools 👍
I wish I had this a year ago when I did my belts/dephaser/water pump myself! My alternator died a few days after I finished the job too 😂
Well you have a guide now, better late than never 😅
To be fair the alternator had done 134k and was 21 years old.. just terrible timing lol
Super,, piston engine is 172 rs
I’d definitely feel more confident doing mine now after watching this. Great video.
Glad to hear you enjoyed the video 👍
Once your comfortable with the process it’s really not a terrible job with the genuine locking tools
Great vid again bud fair play it's looking good top work 👍🏍💨
Thanks mate 😎👍
wow great video always have kittens doing timing belts on the cars I have owned
Thanks & hopefully helps 😬👍
Great video, thanks for sharing! 🇫🇷 💪
Thanks & glad you enjoyed it 😎👍
Ive got a regular 1.2 a d for the life of me, cannot find how to replace the air con belt idle/tensioner pulley.
I’ve only ever worked on the Renault Sports so unable to assist I’m afraid
@@stoneautomotive all good. Its the retainer cap thing giving me problems. Its got angled sides so you can't use a spanner. I think its torx ended tho but its getting a ratchet and bit between it and the wheel arch thats causing me problems. Might have to resort to mole grips.
Nice work! Very thorough and well done.
Thanks 😎👍
Thanks for the video , I have a project 172 that I started the belt change some time ago I just need to tighten the pulleys now I am going to. The six turns give me the confidence to finish.
Glad to hear 😎👍
Any tips on how to remove a water pump bolt ? Some num nut use a socket or a ring to tighten it and have rounded it off. I have a replacement and can remove the others it just such a bad spot.@@stoneautomotive
@@MrBrenden830 as long as the engine is jacked up as high as it can go the water pump replacement is not the worst job but if you’ve rounded the bolts off your in for some head ache now sadly ☹️
well what can i say just another great interesting video pretty long one at that but enjoyed every single minute of it mate im learning something bit by bit everytime
Probably a little to much detail for normal viewing but if some one fancies a DIY belt change it has the details covered 😬
One more Renault one and then it’s back to BMW’s 😅
@@stoneautomotive no mate im enjoying this longer video i find it really interesting and like you say its good for someone that wants to do the diy same as your self 😉👌ps looking forward to more bmw contents aswell 😁👍
HM...somting problem on 200/197 cam on 172/182 ...also tuner will call you to make it advance intake X degree and retard exhaust some timing
Yep needed more advance, had to adjust it on the dyno 🤦♂️ more of that in the next episode!
Great video
Get rs250 out ....💪😃
I sold it 😭😭😭