My Jack system is called equalizers, their closed units, $720 apeice, I took it off and took it to a hydraulic repair shop they cut it open an fixed and replaced the seals and welded it $400. Seeing your video, it seems like they mostly earned that much. Thanks
@@SouthernGingerjust mentioning they said it was important to re chrome the piston ram?, saying it was necessary once their pitted even slightly from rust or seals might not hold up or seal, it looked fine to me but what ever, I saved a few bucks and it works. Thanks for the response.
I have been a mechanic for over 35 years, If you don't know what the rubber is NEVER use WD-40 it will swell up, and NEVER NEVER NEVER use Marvel Mystery Oil
What is a safe lubricant to use with rubber seals? Obviously, you don't want to try put it on dry... I guess using the same hydraulic fluid (transmission fluid) that it works with should be safe? but is there something better?
@@COSMACELF1802 Let me explain it this way. HD does not mean Heavy Duty, it means High Detergent, Rubber don't like this, I would say find Air Tool Oil, like used in your Impact tools, not all Transmission oil are the same. and again do what the Book says to use,,
@@virgilmerchant5291 Thank you, that was helpful. Sometimes, you just can't find a book, so knowing about safe bets (like Air Tool Oil) is very helpful. That would make sense, Air tools rely on clean oil that won't damage their seals. I won't ever look at "HD" the same and I think I need to freshen up my Automatic transmission fluid knowledge. I recall there was 2 types Ford and GM. ATF vs Dextron (can't remember which is GM), but there's probably more types now, especially since the invent of the CVT's. I think power steering fluid works well as hydraulic fluid, but I can't remember why it's different than brake fluid (which is also a hydraulic system). Also, I recall ATF or Dextron is interchangeable with power steering fluid! I'll look this up and start making a cheat sheet for myself. Good day.
TIP" video 1:56 see the large black ring? if your jacks won't release no mater how much you try and push them up. that ring can swell up, ( get fat ) by sanding the out-side of that ring you Now can push the cap back over the ram with ease, it should be lubed and should slide smoothly, if it gets fat it locks the ran in place and spring isn't strong enough, "Note" sand only the OUT-SIDE of the ring, OD, just enough to remove the black it will look grey, the thickness of paper no more, FYI to long on the sander it will MELT just go slow. I just did this Quick repair on Three Large rams on a Holiday Rambler,( spring was inside my rams) they wanted $1500.00 per ram, I did it for 5 hours labor and gallon of new fluid, they work PERFECT! Good luck.
I have basically the same RV. Rebuilt all the jacks a couple of years ago, still working fine with no leaks. What I didn't do was replace the return springs. Now my jacks require a little assistance to retract all the way. They raise it most of the way, just an inch or two of the piston rods showing, from time to time. My question is, can I replace the return springs without pulling the jacks?
Good video, thanks. I have a Fleetwood Revolution 2006 and one of the jacks started to leak oil. Strange thing is that the polished cylinder is dry but the metallic pad is definitely wet. Is there any other O-ring inside the cylinder that may be leaking that I can’t see? Or is there just one seal in the whole jack? The one that you replaced? Thanks
Same jacks, same chassis on a 2000 Airstream Land Yacht 355XL. This video is exactly what I needed, thanks. I'm going to think long and hard before tackling this one. The work and tools arenlt issues, but the time is. Any idea what to expect this job to cost at an RV shop? What part of the South are you in? I'm in Spartanburg, SC. Thanks again.
Hmmm that's a great question, I feel like these feet are welded on,, you're better luck trying to bend it back or you might have to replace the whole leg..
I have a 2000 Pace Arrow in my left rear hydraulic jack started leaking so I watched your video and I dropped it down disconnected the spring but I'm having a hard time separating the bottom cylinder from the base what tool did you used I noticed you had somewhat of a chain and gear I don't have that available I do have a pipe wrench do you screw it out counterclockwise do you turn the bass of the jack not sure how to disassemble it great video I'm a new owner of a 2000 Pace Arrow trying to get it roadworthy
To anyone else reading this, because I know its been 9 months, the guide is coated with blue Loctite when its installed into the bottom of the jack. To remove it, pull the piston out about half way, then play a propane torch on the bottom piston guide for a minute to melt/soften the Loctite. Then use a chain wrench or large pipe wrench to unscrew it.
Thank you for your video! Excellent! I have a 99 Bounder 36S, Just like yours. Front left jack is leaking. My jacks are located behind the front wheels (close to the coach batteries). I see the spring bolt should be loosened before removing the spring to release the pressure. The kit price has gone up to nearly $200 now. I wonder if I can just replace the seals and keep the end cap to save $ ? Thanks for the torque setting on the stopper, I wonder what torque to use on the spring and mounting bolts? Or just go with %^$! tight? Was there any dirt inside the cylinder? I mean, would it be worth while to simply open and clean instead of jumping to replace the seals? Once, 40 years ago, my dad's floor jack failed. I opened it, cleaned it all, replaced the fluid and it's been working flawlessly (for the last 40 years). My guess, even a small particle can compromise the seal and leak oil. Or do the seals just go flat / hard and lose their grip? Of course, it's a lot of work to do this kind of experiment just to save $200.
Yeah it was an adventure, I also try to clean the jack every time before I raise them back up for that reason. Replacing the seals should be all you need as long as the shaft is not bent. I also found a replacement for the springs, I think they were $120 each.. I picked up a couple just in case :D
Hey Zach! Thanks for the videos brother. In this video you used an attachment on your air gun to get the piston cap off so you could remove the old hardware. Please please, what is the attachment called? I really need one. Thanks man!
Does anyone know what the part number kit is on Amazon I could not read the number on the rear left leveling Jack to identify what kit I need to get any help would be appreciated
Talk about timing, I just had a major leak on one of my jacks. Enough to have to pull the fuse on the alarm while driving the RV. I have been looking for a video just like yours for a while now, with minor leaks, but have let them go. Now I have to do something, and have something to do. I have not found your source for seals. I think you said PDX or something close. Could you please list it. I love the DIY crowd. Thanks again for the vid. Harold
OK, I found it. Turns out my front jacks are not exactly the same as yours and the kit is about 2x the price. Looks to have seals and cup on both ends. Will keep investigating to make sure I have the right ones.
Yeah make sure you do the research, you don't want to get the wrong seals haha. Also check around.. even Ebay has seals too. None-the-less its cheaper than replacing the whole jack. haha.
Just to follow up on what I did. Lots of research and found my jacks are obsolete and no longer supported by the manufacture. Ended up removing the jack and taking to a local hydraulic shop and for $110 got it rebuilt. After reinstalling, the outside spring would not retract it, turned out the piston shaft was just a little dry. Sprayed with silicone and it worked just fine. Now I have the slide toppers to do. Its always something with an older (2001) RV.
I'm trying to replace the spring on one of these jacks... can i remove the bolt from the top of the jack without having to do anything with the hydraulics? I'm worried if I remove the bolt holding the spring mount at the top of the level it will somehow cause a depressurization of the jack. Is the bolt just holding the spring connection arm or does it actually go into the piston at all?
I actually think I replaced mine without removing it. If at all possible, i would remove just the second bolt (outside bolt) That will release the tension from the spring.. hope that helps. Also the jack wont be under pressure if its up.. :D
@@SouthernGinger Perfect ty! The spring end that connects to the foot of the level actually somehow got twisted straight and so my options are try to bend it back and connect it back to the foot or buy a replacement spring. I'm thinking I'm going to try and bend it, but if that doesn't work I'll be ordering a replacement. Thanks for the help... I was hoping not to have to get to invasive and your solution sounds better than any other approach.
I’m having a problem getting the chain wrench breaking that part loose....using same wrench you used.Did yours break loose as easily as shown...any hints?
You can also try hammering the outer casing (cylinder) around where the threads are, this might loosen the rust and/or help get the penetrating oil inside. Don't deform it, just give it small knocks all around. The ultimate is heat... if you get it hot enough, it has to come loose.
Hello southernginger, have one ? / what web site was used to get the jack stand replacement parts. I've got the same model class a coach as your. By the way great video, and will be very helpful once i find the parts.
You didn't need to plug hydraulic hose end to prevent fluid from draining out while the jack was disconnected? Or did you drain system first? What about bleeding the system after the re-installation? Thanks I have one leaking on my fiver I am going to tackle....
I didn't, there isn't any pressure if all the jacks are all the way up. I just disconnected them and made sure they were secured pointed upwards. Maybe it was luck? Haha
From other videos I've seen, it's as simple as extending it out a bit (I wouldn't suggest putting it all the way out, just to the ground) and letting all the bubbles float up, then retracting it to push the bubbles back to the reservoir. Rinse and repeat a few times.
I'm guessing when you extend and retract the jack, it will bleed itself. The air, if any, will be on top. The spring forces you to install it fully retracted, I guess it can't hurt to top it off before connecting the hydraulic line?
After some searching, I found others that had posted exerts of the user manual that also mentions lithium grease. But I couldn’t find that in my manual, so I called power gear and the guy had never heard of grease fittings on the jacks. That in itself was a little bit concerning, but he put me on hold and went to investigate. When he got back he said any bearing greased would be fine. I asked if the lithium grease specifically was needed and would the other types possibly damage anything. He said no, any bearing grease should be fine. He didn’t instill much confidence in me, what’s your opinion on any bearing grease?
Yeah any grease would be fine, all that's doing is wiping away any dust, so the grease just absorbs it so that it doesn't mess us the seals.. technically you don't need it at all but it's a safety net
I called Lippert for a rebuild kit and was told the jacks can't be rebuilt. Rather, they have to be replaced. I took my jacks to a nearby machine shop where they were rebuilt. $250. per jack rebuild vs $1100. for replacements from Lippert. Go figure.
I have a 98 Fleetwood Pace Arrow F53 chassis. The problem is the rear driver's side jack is leaking and I can't make out any part numbers. I have the 500082's up front. Any advice would be appreciated.
@@SouthernGinger It was tricky cos you did it wrong :-) The correct way is to back out the long bolt that goes through the bracket into the spring itself about 3/4 of the way to release all the tension, and THEN remove the bolt down through the center of the jack itself.
Back off the long bolt that goes through the bracket into the actual spring. It's about 6" long, and when you've backed it out about 5" there will be no more tension on the spring. Then you can easily (and safely) remove the bolt that holds the bracket to the spring, and take the spring bolt out the rest of the way. Then the spring can be unhooked from the pad. To replace, hook the bottom of the spring onto the pad, then put the long bolt through the bracket into the top of the spring just far enough to start it. The bolt the bracket to the top of the jack, rotate the jack piston until its at a place that wont catch on anything, and tighten up the long bolt.
This is why when mine was leaking i just bought a new one. 30 minute job to swap it out 👍
I don't think you should use WD40 as a lube on the shaft it eats rubber. I called Lippert and was told Silcone only. Other wise good video. Thanks
Looks like a professional installation! Thank you for sharing!
Haha except for the mishap lol. thanks for watching Paul :)
Southern Ginger Workshop Those things happen from time to time. Thank you for replying!
Hi where can I buy replacement parts I have problems with my jacks, thanks
My Jack system is called equalizers, their closed units, $720 apeice, I took it off and took it to a hydraulic repair shop they cut it open an fixed and replaced the seals and welded it $400. Seeing your video, it seems like they mostly earned that much. Thanks
Yeah if yours is sealed, $400 doesn't sound bad at all! :)
@@SouthernGingerjust mentioning they said it was important to re chrome the piston ram?, saying it was necessary once their pitted even slightly from rust or seals might not hold up or seal, it looked fine to me but what ever, I saved a few bucks and it works. Thanks for the response.
Yeah I just oiled the crap out of mine, I didn't see any rust but thank you for the tip!
I like the decal on front driver side.
Papa was a Shriner
I have been a mechanic for over 35 years, If you don't know what the rubber is NEVER use WD-40 it will swell up, and NEVER NEVER NEVER use Marvel Mystery Oil
What is a safe lubricant to use with rubber seals? Obviously, you don't want to try put it on dry... I guess using the same hydraulic fluid (transmission fluid) that it works with should be safe? but is there something better?
@@COSMACELF1802 Let me explain it this way. HD does not mean Heavy Duty, it means High Detergent, Rubber don't like this, I would say find Air Tool Oil, like used in your Impact tools, not all Transmission oil are the same. and again do what the Book says to use,,
@@virgilmerchant5291 Thank you, that was helpful. Sometimes, you just can't find a book, so knowing about safe bets (like Air Tool Oil) is very helpful. That would make sense, Air tools rely on clean oil that won't damage their seals. I won't ever look at "HD" the same and I think I need to freshen up my Automatic transmission fluid knowledge. I recall there was 2 types Ford and GM. ATF vs Dextron (can't remember which is GM), but there's probably more types now, especially since the invent of the CVT's. I think power steering fluid works well as hydraulic fluid, but I can't remember why it's different than brake fluid (which is also a hydraulic system). Also, I recall ATF or Dextron is interchangeable with power steering fluid! I'll look this up and start making a cheat sheet for myself. Good day.
@@COSMACELF1802 pb blaster
Great job Zach! Thanks for sharing the video with us.👍😎JP
Thanks JP, I appreciate that. I know it's not my "normal" videos but I hope it still helps someone haha
You're very welcome Zach! 😎
TIP" video 1:56 see the large black ring? if your jacks won't release no mater how much you try and push them up. that ring can swell up, ( get fat ) by sanding the out-side of that ring you Now can push the cap back over the ram with ease, it should be lubed and should slide smoothly, if it gets fat it locks the ran in place and spring isn't strong enough, "Note" sand only the OUT-SIDE of the ring, OD, just enough to remove the black it will look grey, the thickness of paper no more, FYI to long on the sander it will MELT just go slow. I just did this Quick repair on Three Large rams on a Holiday Rambler,( spring was inside my rams) they wanted $1500.00 per ram, I did it for 5 hours labor and gallon of new fluid, they work PERFECT! Good luck.
Awesome! And great tip! Thank you!
I have basically the same RV. Rebuilt all the jacks a couple of years ago, still working fine with no leaks. What I didn't do was replace the return springs. Now my jacks require a little assistance to retract all the way. They raise it most of the way, just an inch or two of the piston rods showing, from time to time. My question is, can I replace the return springs without pulling the jacks?
Yeah and I have replaced one of my springs, its a bear but can be done without dropping the the jack
Good video, thanks. I have a Fleetwood Revolution 2006 and one of the jacks started to leak oil. Strange thing is that the polished cylinder is dry but the metallic pad is definitely wet. Is there any other O-ring inside the cylinder that may be leaking that I can’t see? Or is there just one seal in the whole jack? The one that you replaced? Thanks
awesome , would like to know how to operate the jack system. does the emergency brake to be set to operate??/
Yes you need to set the e brake before you can lower the stabilizers
Is it difficult to install lifting jacks if my Bounder did not have them?
Yeah I'd say that's a big job, it's all hydraulic systems
Same jacks, same chassis on a 2000 Airstream Land Yacht 355XL. This video is exactly what I needed, thanks. I'm going to think long and hard before tackling this one. The work and tools arenlt issues, but the time is. Any idea what to expect this job to cost at an RV shop? What part of the South are you in? I'm in Spartanburg, SC. Thanks again.
Hey awesome! Happy to help! I'm in north GA!
I have a 1999 bounder 34V where is the Jack information located I need to replace same seals on the front passenger side leveling jack
I found mine towards the top of the jack, yellow sticker
Can you tell me how to remove the foot pads from the leg cylinder? I bent mine and need to replace it.
Hmmm that's a great question, I feel like these feet are welded on,, you're better luck trying to bend it back or you might have to replace the whole leg..
Someone said they snap on and off, like press fit
@@stevegraham4512 there is a plastic foot that does but mine is all metal and welded to the cylinder
I have a 2000 Pace Arrow in my left rear hydraulic jack started leaking so I watched your video and I dropped it down disconnected the spring but I'm having a hard time separating the bottom cylinder from the base what tool did you used I noticed you had somewhat of a chain and gear I don't have that available I do have a pipe wrench do you screw it out counterclockwise do you turn the bass of the jack not sure how to disassemble it great video I'm a new owner of a 2000 Pace Arrow trying to get it roadworthy
To anyone else reading this, because I know its been 9 months, the guide is coated with blue Loctite when its installed into the bottom of the jack. To remove it, pull the piston out about half way, then play a propane torch on the bottom piston guide for a minute to melt/soften the Loctite. Then use a chain wrench or large pipe wrench to unscrew it.
Thank you for your video! Excellent! I have a 99 Bounder 36S, Just like yours. Front left jack is leaking. My jacks are located behind the front wheels (close to the coach batteries). I see the spring bolt should be loosened before removing the spring to release the pressure. The kit price has gone up to nearly $200 now. I wonder if I can just replace the seals and keep the end cap to save $ ? Thanks for the torque setting on the stopper, I wonder what torque to use on the spring and mounting bolts? Or just go with %^$! tight? Was there any dirt inside the cylinder? I mean, would it be worth while to simply open and clean instead of jumping to replace the seals? Once, 40 years ago, my dad's floor jack failed. I opened it, cleaned it all, replaced the fluid and it's been working flawlessly (for the last 40 years). My guess, even a small particle can compromise the seal and leak oil. Or do the seals just go flat / hard and lose their grip? Of course, it's a lot of work to do this kind of experiment just to save $200.
Yeah it was an adventure, I also try to clean the jack every time before I raise them back up for that reason. Replacing the seals should be all you need as long as the shaft is not bent. I also found a replacement for the springs, I think they were $120 each.. I picked up a couple just in case :D
Hey Zach! Thanks for the videos brother. In this video you used an attachment on your air gun to get the piston cap off so you could remove the old hardware. Please please, what is the attachment called? I really need one. Thanks man!
I think it was just an impact wrench right? Haha it's been a minute. I also used a chain clamp too.
@@SouthernGinger Yep, some kind of Retainer Spanner Socket Wrench. I can't find the one you had/have
You're using it at the 1:49-1:50 minute mark in the video
I believe that was just an impact, I don't have a special tool for that, sorry.
is this a P30 chassis coach?
I believe it's a F53 chassis
FYI. Future reference, the same seal kit is available on Amazon, minus nut for $63.00
Ah nice, thanks for the tip!
Do you have a link?
Does anyone know what the part number kit is on Amazon I could not read the number on the rear left leveling Jack to identify what kit I need to get any help would be appreciated
Sometimes you can find the jack model in the bounder handbook.. sorry about that James!
I have one jack that won’t come up. How do you bleed it off to be able to push jack up? Thanks
If all the other jacks are up you should be able to push it up with a board or something as leverage. Sounds like the spring is bad
Talk about timing, I just had a major leak on one of my jacks. Enough to have to pull the fuse on the alarm while driving the RV. I have been looking for a video just like yours for a while now, with minor leaks, but have let them go. Now I have to do something, and have something to do. I have not found your source for seals. I think you said PDX or something close. Could you please list it. I love the DIY crowd. Thanks again for the vid. Harold
Hey Harold, all the links are on the article if you visit that link. Sorry for the confusion. But yes PDX has everything you need
OK, I found it. Turns out my front jacks are not exactly the same as yours and the kit is about 2x the price. Looks to have seals and cup on both ends. Will keep investigating to make sure I have the right ones.
Yeah make sure you do the research, you don't want to get the wrong seals haha. Also check around.. even Ebay has seals too. None-the-less its cheaper than replacing the whole jack. haha.
Just to follow up on what I did. Lots of research and found my jacks are obsolete and no longer supported by the manufacture. Ended up removing the jack and taking to a local hydraulic shop and for $110 got it rebuilt. After reinstalling, the outside spring would not retract it, turned out the piston shaft was just a little dry. Sprayed with silicone and it worked just fine. Now I have the slide toppers to do. Its always something with an older (2001) RV.
That's great! I'm glad you were able to get that fixed! Yeah, always keep some silicone around to keep it up to snuff :)
Jack want go down
I'm trying to replace the spring on one of these jacks... can i remove the bolt from the top of the jack without having to do anything with the hydraulics? I'm worried if I remove the bolt holding the spring mount at the top of the level it will somehow cause a depressurization of the jack. Is the bolt just holding the spring connection arm or does it actually go into the piston at all?
I actually think I replaced mine without removing it. If at all possible, i would remove just the second bolt (outside bolt) That will release the tension from the spring.. hope that helps. Also the jack wont be under pressure if its up.. :D
@@SouthernGinger Perfect ty! The spring end that connects to the foot of the level actually somehow got twisted straight and so my options are try to bend it back and connect it back to the foot or buy a replacement spring. I'm thinking I'm going to try and bend it, but if that doesn't work I'll be ordering a replacement. Thanks for the help... I was hoping not to have to get to invasive and your solution sounds better than any other approach.
Yeah and you will find the new spring is slightly shorter but it still works
I’m having a problem getting the chain wrench breaking that part loose....using same wrench you used.Did yours break loose as easily as shown...any hints?
Yeah it's a beast, I'm sure you're trying with penetrating oil? You might try hearing up the outer cylinder to expand those treads a little
You can also try hammering the outer casing (cylinder) around where the threads are, this might loosen the rust and/or help get the penetrating oil inside. Don't deform it, just give it small knocks all around. The ultimate is heat... if you get it hot enough, it has to come loose.
Hello southernginger, have one ? / what web site was used to get the jack stand replacement parts. I've got the same model class a coach as your. By the way great video, and will be very helpful once i find the parts.
I used a lot from PDX www.southerngingerworkshop.com/articles/2018/10/19/diy-rv-leveling-jack-repair-powergear-50008
You didn't need to plug hydraulic hose end to prevent fluid from draining out while the jack was disconnected? Or did you drain system first? What about bleeding the system after the re-installation? Thanks I have one leaking on my fiver I am going to tackle....
I didn't, there isn't any pressure if all the jacks are all the way up. I just disconnected them and made sure they were secured pointed upwards. Maybe it was luck? Haha
From other videos I've seen, it's as simple as extending it out a bit (I wouldn't suggest putting it all the way out, just to the ground) and letting all the bubbles float up, then retracting it to push the bubbles back to the reservoir. Rinse and repeat a few times.
Was it necessary to bleed fluid?
Not from the reservoir no, but it wouldn't hurt i suppose.
I'm guessing when you extend and retract the jack, it will bleed itself. The air, if any, will be on top. The spring forces you to install it fully retracted, I guess it can't hurt to top it off before connecting the hydraulic line?
What type of grease did you add to that new grease fitting?
Just standard lithium grease
After some searching, I found others that had posted exerts of the user manual that also mentions lithium grease. But I couldn’t find that in my manual, so I called power gear and the guy had never heard of grease fittings on the jacks. That in itself was a little bit concerning, but he put me on hold and went to investigate. When he got back he said any bearing greased would be fine. I asked if the lithium grease specifically was needed and would the other types possibly damage anything. He said no, any bearing grease should be fine.
He didn’t instill much confidence in me, what’s your opinion on any bearing grease?
Yeah any grease would be fine, all that's doing is wiping away any dust, so the grease just absorbs it so that it doesn't mess us the seals.. technically you don't need it at all but it's a safety net
Thanks!
I called Lippert for a rebuild kit and was told the jacks can't be rebuilt. Rather, they have to be replaced. I took my jacks to a nearby machine shop where they were rebuilt. $250. per jack rebuild vs $1100. for replacements from Lippert. Go figure.
Thanks to your video I found the part on Amazon and installed it myself. Question is do you have to bleed the jack to remove air in the lines?
I didn't have to do any bleeding but I did add more transmission fluid to the reservoir
Hi Dave
I have a 97 southwind.
Where did you get a part# for the jack kit
I got mine from the jack itself
@@SouthernGinger i found the numbers by measuring the Jack itself. Thanks for the reply.
Oh awesome! Good luck!
I have a 98 Fleetwood Pace Arrow F53 chassis. The problem is the rear driver's side jack is leaking and I can't make out any part numbers. I have the 500082's up front. Any advice would be appreciated.
I cant remember what number it was off hand for mine but I believe it was the same seal kit, even tho it was a different part number.
@@SouthernGinger I know its been a while but if you can direct me to how to got that kit it would be appreciated.
The kit I used is from pdxrvwholesale.com/
@@SouthernGinger Thanks, I wish it was the front because the rears are twice as expensive to swap out.
Yeah I've replaced a seal in the rear, a spring and a seal in the front. Plus new hoses
you went too fast when removing and replacing the spring, I have a broken spring
I didn't have to replace my spring.. it was a big tricky those to take off :)
@@SouthernGinger It was tricky cos you did it wrong :-)
The correct way is to back out the long bolt that goes through the bracket into the spring itself about 3/4 of the way to release all the tension, and THEN remove the bolt down through the center of the jack itself.
@@richardalty9931 yup, that makes more sense after you do it once or twice :)
Back off the long bolt that goes through the bracket into the actual spring. It's about 6" long, and when you've backed it out about 5" there will be no more tension on the spring. Then you can easily (and safely) remove the bolt that holds the bracket to the spring, and take the spring bolt out the rest of the way. Then the spring can be unhooked from the pad.
To replace, hook the bottom of the spring onto the pad, then put the long bolt through the bracket into the top of the spring just far enough to start it. The bolt the bracket to the top of the jack, rotate the jack piston until its at a place that wont catch on anything, and tighten up the long bolt.
Q