Martin would have a fit, if he were around now; I changed out our leveling fluid last weekend and I drained into a clear jug so, when I went to Auto Zone, Walmart they told me the fluid looked contaminated and they wouldn't take it. I explained that when you replace OLD, WORN OUT fluids, they do look bad and I wanted to buy NEW fluid, to replace it with. The fluids we bring in are sent to a recycling facility, where they run it through a multi level, filtering process to remove contaminants. Guess from now on, I'll be using a black container, so the store will have to TASTE it, to see if it's "Good Enough" to recycle. Take care Joanie. Just came back from Niagara Falls and had alot of people comment on our "We Live On RV Street" banner, on the back of our coach!
I have a local RV shop that I buy my Roadside Assistance contract from and they offer a free annual inspection. Obviously the goal for them is to find things for them to repair, but most things I do myself thanks to helpful videos like this one! Thank you, Martin.
Thanks for a great video! For those with a Winnebago Adventurer 37F (ours is a 2010), the reservoir is behind the driver's side front wheel. There is no external access hatch. Instead, a plate held in with 9 screws allows access from inside the front wall of the basement compartment. Remove that and all is the same as here. Took me awhile to find it, so hopefully anyone else who needs it can find this comment via Google.
I have the lipert level legs and i never use the auto level , It takes so long and near lifts the RV off the ground , I get the front legs to touch the ground then the back legs down and im done ,,,, easy , Great vid Martin
Excellent video- I had been trying to think through how to do this and you're video was excellent. I knocked it out on our 2016 'bago Adventurer in about 20 minutes! Thanks so much! You're videos are great! Looking forward to many more.
@@RVstreet Got 2 more projects I want to try. Got a front drag link grease boot that's shot and I want to try to change out. Seems easy and I have done front end rebuilds but it spooks me a bit- probably more because of the size of the link connection. . Also have to change out a gas strut on an overhead door over my LP tank, but having a dickens of a time matching the exact product number.. Ever done those on your bago?
@@americanrascal53 Gas struts yes. Installed several new ones on bay doors. Bought at CW. Front drag link grease boot...no. But here are some great threads that should probably help you. www.google.com/search?q=front+drag+link+grease+boot+replacement&x=0&y=0&sitesearch=irv2.com
Thanks so much for sharing your wonderful video!!! My problem is two jacks keeps coming down while I’m driving so I blocked them with a chain. But don’t know if there’s any leaks or how to troubleshoot.
Thanks for your great videos. Do I have to auto level after changing fluid or can I manually entend and retract the rear jacks and repeat the same with the front Jacks to get the fluids flowing?
Well I suppose you could do it manually but I choose to use the auto level function because as you know in Auto mode it REALLY extends those systems-way more than is necessary-and I really wanted to draw up as much new fluid as possible. But once I auto leveled, I retracted the jacks again and then manually leveled as usual.
Hey Martin, could you comment what drives you to replace the ATF fluid once every 2 years? Not questioning your wealth of experience and knowledge, just wanted to get a feel for why LCI would recommend 3 to 5 years. Obviously amount of use, location, and environment for which the levelers are exposed - dirt and heat, etc, has an impact on frequency. You guys being full timers may very well be reflective as to the need to more frequent. Of course things do break down they say, even without a lot of use. Thanks and look forward to hearing from ya.
Well bc as I have said many times in several videos, I treat our coach as severe duty. As you said, being full timers and moving around into different temperature environments all thru the year, I take EVERY factory scheduled maintenance item and cut them in half. Condensation can build up in these systems and that's not good. I want all my systems working in top condition. Many things break down without a lot of use bc they aren't exercised regularly. You know the ol' saying...use it or lose it.
Do the lines which carry the ATF to the leveling jacks from the reservoir need to be drained as well or is just retracting the jacks to the full retracted (up) position good enough. If so, does any of the 'old' fluid remain in the lines?
For our Power Gear unit I use: Castrol Transmax™ DEXRON®-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid - Takes 6 Qts. + one Qt. as a spare Premium synthetic blend formula exceeds DEXRON®-III H requirements. Check your manual for the year of your unit to make it hasn't changed.
So I bought a 1999 Fleetwood bounder,the person I bought it from said the leveling system worked great until it need oil and they poured engine oil in it ,and it stopped working, so I drained the reservoir,and put transmission fluid in it ,the lights on the dash blinks saying jacks down ,but the jacks are up ,and it won't work I added more transmission fluid and now the lights stopped blinking and won't power on ,any ideas ?nice video
To do this kind of maintenance/upgrades you can use the levelers to raise the RV but once raised you need to permanently block under the axles or chassis with either proper weight steel jack stands or wood. It's not safe to go under there doing this kind of work depending on just your levelers.
I had a mechanic change the motor and the fluid in my power jacks and now I noticed the jacks were drift up on their own losing contact with the ground. Do you know what this problem might be?
Is the cap on the reservoir a vented type? That being said, covering will prevent air in tank from venting. Agree on auto level mode… uses way to much battery, and usually doing terrible job, ie, not level. Manual works great for our Equalizer Smart level Bluetooth app. Great video.
I've been lightly covering this reservoir for 5yrs. now and have absolutely not venting problems and my jacks always work perfectly. However, I know of several people that have had their fluid contaminated with water. That's why I cover it. In fact I'm changing the fluid again tomorrow. I do this every 2 yrs. thx for your comment and kind words Anthony 👍
Hey Martin, you probably can't help me with this but I am going to ask anyway. My Allegro Tiffin 2003 has a HWH leveling system. One of the Jack's won't go up or down. The hydraulic repair shop in our area is booked up until January. I have to make a trip from Mississippi to Texas in November. If you have any suggestions, I would really appreciate any help.
Well I'll try to help you... In a pinch, take a shovel and some wood blocking and while someone is pushing the retract button, take the shovel and wood blocking and pry up under the jack pad to assist getting the jack up. Once up a little, if it still hangs up and stops going up, put a bottle jack under it and pump it up the rest of the way. Check fluid level with the jacks fully retracted. Many of your type of older rigs had to change their HWH springs to stiffer ones, which helps a lot. The springs are what retracts the jacks. Factory old springs can often be weak and your year of coach is know for weak springs and many folks have had to replace them. There 18yrs. old. Make sure your fluid is to the proper level. When is the last time you’ve replaced your leveling system fluid? That is a PM item. Below is how to do it. Check your manual to be sure to use the right fluid in your system. I’m not sure if it’s the same type of fluid as my system: ua-cam.com/video/NSvJmQIneCk/v-deo.html Keeping the jack cylinders clean is very important. Then lubricate them with BoeShield T-9 and then wipe them with a paper towel. I do this every couple of weeks to my jack cylinders but I use a different DRY Lube for my Power Gear jacks. I personally prefer 3M Dry Silicone lube. The dry lube I use for my jack cylinders is in the “Sealants, Lubes and Protectants” category here: www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet?listId=3TFZBP7BI1XMD You may have hydraulic valves that are NOT releasing the down fluid pressure. Your jack may have to be rebuilt. HWH asks you to send it to them in for a rebuild. However any local hydraulic shop can do it for you. Hope this helps 👍
Hey Steve, Not sure about the steps for a LCI system but you should be able to manually level though. I would just check the owners manual for instructions. I have a power gear leveling system and I did a vid on how I level and explained why. You can see that here: ua-cam.com/video/luvPcFQXWzQ/v-deo.html Also, If your interested, go to our main YT Channel page and click PLAYLISTS, then on that page click “RV Motorhome Upgrades, Maintenance and DIY How-To’s” there’s already a wealth of information there too that you may find helpful.
I Really love all your hands on lessons. But I have to tell you in your leveling jack service video you said to use ATF fluid. I have an 04 Class A camper and after further review, It said in the manual not to use ATF fluid. It told me to use HWH specialty fluid. So it never hurts to double check. Not sure of the difference.
Good Service, BUT, your doing it the hard way. 1 retract all jacks 2 disconn hose to rear jack farthest from pump 3 in manual mode, raise jack that is disconn (catch oil coming out of discon hose) 4 conn hose 5 replenish tank 6 disconn hose to other rear jack 7 in man mode, raise that jack & catch oil 8 conn hose 9 replenish tank 10 repeat for front jacks - D O N E - !
That's a easier way? 😭 Crawling under the coach 4 times and doing all those other steps? Sorry, but I like my approach way better. But as long as the fluid gets changed I don't care how somebody gets it done, as long as it gets done. 👍
Martin would have a fit, if he were around now; I changed out our leveling fluid last weekend and I drained into a clear jug so, when I went to Auto Zone, Walmart they told me the fluid looked contaminated and they wouldn't take it. I explained that when you replace OLD, WORN OUT fluids, they do look bad and I wanted to buy NEW fluid, to replace it with. The fluids we bring in are sent to a recycling facility, where they run it through a multi level, filtering process to remove contaminants. Guess from now on, I'll be using a black container, so the store will have to TASTE it, to see if it's "Good Enough" to recycle. Take care Joanie. Just came back from Niagara Falls and had alot of people comment on our "We Live On RV Street" banner, on the back of our coach!
LOL, yes Martin would have had a fit. I tell everyone about the banner on your RV and I am so proud that Martin had such an impact on you.
@@RVstreet and you as well. It was a team production, Joanie!
I have a local RV shop that I buy my Roadside Assistance contract from and they offer a free annual inspection. Obviously the goal for them is to find things for them to repair, but most things I do myself thanks to helpful videos like this one! Thank you, Martin.
you rock! thanks for your videos man!!
Thanks for a great video!
For those with a Winnebago Adventurer 37F (ours is a 2010), the reservoir is behind the driver's side front wheel. There is no external access hatch. Instead, a plate held in with 9 screws allows access from inside the front wall of the basement compartment. Remove that and all is the same as here. Took me awhile to find it, so hopefully anyone else who needs it can find this comment via Google.
Thank you Martin! Excellent video!! 😊
Great video. I wish my jack reservoir was in a space like yours, it sure would make for an easier job. Thanks for the video
thx aron
Always learning thanks.
I like the way you present things and your a smart guy that's a good thing too. The Sarandon wrap is A cool idea
I have the lipert level legs and i never use the auto level , It takes so long and near lifts the RV off the ground , I get the front legs to touch the ground then the back legs down and im done ,,,, easy ,
Great vid Martin
Thanks, now I know where to get ride of the old oil.
bring it to any auto parts stores..they usually take it and let you dump it in the back of store
Very nice. Good information.
Excellent video- I had been trying to think through how to do this and you're video was excellent. I knocked it out on our 2016 'bago Adventurer in about 20 minutes! Thanks so much! You're videos are great! Looking forward to many more.
Thanks Joe. Glad it helped ya.
@@RVstreet Got 2 more projects I want to try. Got a front drag link grease boot that's shot and I want to try to change out. Seems easy and I have done front end rebuilds but it spooks me a bit- probably more because of the size of the link connection. . Also have to change out a gas strut on an overhead door over my LP tank, but having a dickens of a time matching the exact product number.. Ever done those on your bago?
@@americanrascal53 Gas struts yes. Installed several new ones on bay doors. Bought at CW.
Front drag link grease boot...no. But here are some great threads that should probably help you.
www.google.com/search?q=front+drag+link+grease+boot+replacement&x=0&y=0&sitesearch=irv2.com
@@RVstreet Many thanks!
Thank you, that was awesome!
Right on, Thanks for the good advice.
Thanks Brett. If you liked this video you probably will like this one too.
ua-cam.com/video/NSvJmQIneCk/v-deo.html
Ha ha ha. You are funny Martin.
Great info !!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks so much for sharing your wonderful video!!!
My problem is two jacks keeps coming down while I’m driving so I blocked them with a chain. But don’t know if there’s any leaks or how to troubleshoot.
Thanks for your great videos. Do I have to auto level after changing fluid or can I manually entend and retract the rear jacks and repeat the same with the front Jacks to get the fluids flowing?
Well I suppose you could do it manually but I choose to use the auto level function because as you know in Auto mode it REALLY extends those systems-way more than is necessary-and I really wanted to draw up as much new fluid as possible. But once I auto leveled, I retracted the jacks again and then manually leveled as usual.
Hey Martin, could you comment what drives you to replace the ATF fluid once every 2 years? Not questioning your wealth of experience and knowledge, just wanted to get a feel for why LCI would recommend 3 to 5 years. Obviously amount of use, location, and environment for which the levelers are exposed - dirt and heat, etc, has an impact on frequency. You guys being full timers may very well be reflective as to the need to more frequent. Of course things do break down they say, even without a lot of use. Thanks and look forward to hearing from ya.
Well bc as I have said many times in several videos, I treat our coach as severe duty. As you said, being full timers and moving around into different temperature environments all thru the year, I take EVERY factory scheduled maintenance item and cut them in half. Condensation can build up in these systems and that's not good. I want all my systems working in top condition.
Many things break down without a lot of use bc they aren't exercised regularly.
You know the ol' saying...use it or lose it.
Do the lines which carry the ATF to the leveling jacks from the reservoir need to be drained as well or is just retracting the jacks to the full retracted (up) position good enough. If so, does any of the 'old' fluid remain in the lines?
Fully retracted (up) position is good enough. Your basically changing out about 90% of the fluid. It's all good 👍
Any special transmission fluid to use? I know some are different.
For our Power Gear unit I use:
Castrol Transmax™ DEXRON®-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid - Takes 6 Qts. + one Qt. as a spare
Premium synthetic blend formula exceeds DEXRON®-III H requirements.
Check your manual for the year of your unit to make it hasn't changed.
So I bought a 1999 Fleetwood bounder,the person I bought it from said the leveling system worked great until it need oil and they poured engine oil in it ,and it stopped working, so I drained the reservoir,and put transmission fluid in it ,the lights on the dash blinks saying jacks down ,but the jacks are up ,and it won't work I added more transmission fluid and now the lights stopped blinking and won't power on ,any ideas ?nice video
Well, for starters, that entire system needs to be flushed several times. But buy now all the rings and hoses may be shot too.
@@RVstreet I didn't realize I had to apply the emergency brake
I need to lift the front end on my class C to replace shocks, steering damper and wheel bearings can I use my levelers to lift front end?
To do this kind of maintenance/upgrades you can use the levelers to raise the RV but once raised you need to permanently block under the axles or chassis with either proper weight steel jack stands or wood. It's not safe to go under there doing this kind of work depending on just your levelers.
I had a mechanic change the motor and the fluid in my power jacks and now I noticed the jacks were drift up on their own losing contact with the ground. Do you know what this problem might be?
Since it was just serviced, could be air in the lines and not holding pressure.
What do you spray on the jacks? I saw it in a video but can't find that video. Thanks!
3m dry lube lithium grease
Is the cap on the reservoir a vented type?
That being said, covering will prevent air in tank from venting.
Agree on auto level mode… uses way to much battery, and usually doing terrible job, ie, not level. Manual works great for our Equalizer Smart level Bluetooth app.
Great video.
I've been lightly covering this reservoir for 5yrs. now and have absolutely not venting problems and my jacks always work perfectly. However, I know of several people that have had their fluid contaminated with water. That's why I cover it. In fact I'm changing the fluid again tomorrow. I do this every 2 yrs.
thx for your comment and kind words Anthony 👍
A person could poke a small vent hole in the plastic wrap near the cap.
I manual level my coach
Martin always manual leveled the coach, he said it auto leveled the coach to high.
Hey Martin, you probably can't help me with this but I am going to ask anyway. My Allegro Tiffin 2003 has a HWH leveling system. One of the Jack's won't go up or down. The hydraulic repair shop in our area is booked up until January. I have to make a trip from Mississippi to Texas in November. If you have any suggestions, I would really appreciate any help.
Well I'll try to help you...
In a pinch, take a shovel and some wood blocking and while someone is pushing the retract button, take the shovel and wood blocking and pry up under the jack pad to assist getting the jack up. Once up a little, if it still hangs up and stops going up, put a bottle jack under it and pump it up the rest of the way.
Check fluid level with the jacks fully retracted. Many of your type of older rigs had to change their HWH springs to stiffer ones, which helps a lot. The springs are what retracts the jacks. Factory old springs can often be weak and your year of coach is know for weak springs and many folks have had to replace them. There 18yrs. old.
Make sure your fluid is to the proper level. When is the last time you’ve replaced your leveling system fluid? That is a PM item. Below is how to do it. Check your manual to be sure to use the right fluid in your system. I’m not sure if it’s the same type of fluid as my system:
ua-cam.com/video/NSvJmQIneCk/v-deo.html
Keeping the jack cylinders clean is very important. Then lubricate them with BoeShield T-9 and then wipe them with a paper towel. I do this every couple of weeks to my jack cylinders but I use a different DRY Lube for my Power Gear jacks. I personally prefer 3M Dry Silicone lube. The dry lube I use for my jack cylinders is in the “Sealants, Lubes and Protectants” category here: www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet?listId=3TFZBP7BI1XMD
You may have hydraulic valves that are NOT releasing the down fluid pressure.
Your jack may have to be rebuilt. HWH asks you to send it to them in for a rebuild. However any local hydraulic shop can do it for you.
Hope this helps 👍
How do you not auto-level. My 2016 Winnebago has a LCI Electronic Leveling System how do I do it manually?
Hey Steve,
Not sure about the steps for a LCI system but you should be able to manually level though. I would just check the owners manual for instructions.
I have a power gear leveling system and I did a vid on how I level and explained why. You can see that here: ua-cam.com/video/luvPcFQXWzQ/v-deo.html
Also, If your interested, go to our main YT Channel page and click PLAYLISTS, then on that page click “RV Motorhome Upgrades, Maintenance and DIY How-To’s” there’s already a wealth of information there too that you may find helpful.
Great job time to do mine.
I Really love all your hands on lessons. But I have to tell you in your leveling jack service video you said to use ATF fluid. I have an 04 Class A camper and after further review, It said in the manual not to use ATF fluid. It told me to use HWH specialty fluid. So it never hurts to double check. Not sure of the difference.
Mine is a Power Gear Leveling system. Definitely ATF for sure.
Get some light in there. Can't see
Good Service, BUT, your doing it the hard way.
1 retract all jacks
2 disconn hose to rear jack farthest from pump
3 in manual mode, raise jack that is disconn
(catch oil coming out of discon hose)
4 conn hose
5 replenish tank
6 disconn hose to other rear jack
7 in man mode, raise that jack & catch oil
8 conn hose
9 replenish tank
10 repeat for front jacks
- D O N E -
!
That's a easier way? 😭
Crawling under the coach 4 times and doing all those other steps? Sorry, but I like my approach way better.
But as long as the fluid gets changed I don't care how somebody gets it done, as long as it gets done. 👍