The thumb focusing trick is such a great street trick too that so many people don’t realize. No one thinks you’re shooting when your thumb is on the shutter instead of your index. You can be a lot more discreet and look like you’re just holding your camera. Especially with a rangefinder body.
Great tips, BTW not sure you are aware, but most Fuji cameras you can set to AF "ALL" mode, and it will switch between modes as you resize the rectangle, so when you make rectangle smaller it will switch to single point focus, bigger - zone, etc., I find it super handy 🙂
Agree. I always have it this way and easily switch between single point or zone. I think it’s worth mentioning that you’d be careful with zone focus when shooting wide on fast lenses. It might pick up the wrong spot and mess up the depth of field. But having it set up to all is fast to switch between the two.
Manual focus with peaking is really useful shooting through glass storefronts or cafes where the camera can have a hard time ignoring reflections and debris stuck to the glass.
@@verynick I like a combination of zone and manual, shooting at f5.6 or f8 gives one a pretty large depth of field anyway and you can fine-tune on the fly pretty quick with Fuji's excellent manual focus peaking. And I like to use vintage lenses, so often times I have no choice but to use manual focus.
Thank you. I did enjoy the tip of being in AFC and being able to shot in AFS without switching by simply using the back button in AF lock only. Thanks.
Recommend to use "AF Mode = All" which allows you to scroll from single point to zone to wide to single point. "All" means "all of the three modes", not "all points". No need to go into "AF Mode" anymore, just turn your scroll wheel to get from one single AF point to all you have, no more thinking about single or zone or wide
It was really interesting to hear your perspective on this. When using my R5, it is 100% back button focus in continuous AF [Servo] mode. I press and release for single AF. I hold the button for continuous AF. The real beauty of the R5's AF system-missing from my Fuji bodies as well as the new X-H2S-is its _dual_ back button focus, where one button can be configured to focus traditionally on whatever is under the focus point while the other instantly focuses on a subject's eyes. It is hard to overstate the flexibility this system offers when shooting street. I can configure the Eye AF button to initiate focus on the person under the focus point or simply the closest person in a zone of my choosing. (While precisely positioning a focus point has always been a struggle for me, moving a zone left or right is easy.) The whole system is a game changer for anyone who prefers to use AF when shooting street.
@@suisinghoraceho2403 To a certain extent yes, but having AEL/AEF on toggle you push once to lock and again to unlock and to turn to a preferred mode. It`s a bit slower for sure, but it works better for some people. I guess that is what matters.
It's great hearing a reasoned well-paced delivery on this, from someone basing it all on real-life experience rather than the quick-fire latest fad deliveries on other channels, preaching about some new trick they've learnt. 100% agree with you on this subject, glad to know there's common sense out there ;)
I've watched this video before but didn't realise about the af button on the back, I have a sony a390 and just put it in to practice, it works a treat, so i can have afc on the shutter button and afs on the back, makes things easier. I need too give that a good workout now, thanks Roman.
As mentioned below, I have set my AE-L & AF-L buttons to toggle On/Off , like a light switch. Frees up my thumb for other buttons on my X-T3.Great video as usual, always learn something new .
In AF-S you can focus and then re-adjust the focus on the focus ring, if AF+MF is set to on, which is quite handy in combination with Focus Check On and Focus Peaking as this is the only way how you get half-shutter--pressed focus peaking for full needle sharp focus control. BUT: even if you have shutter prio for AF-S set to focus AF+MF:on the camera does NOT wait to acquire focus. This sounds obvious now but can be easily overseen - as I experienced.
I use another yet technique to avoid switching to single focus or using focus hold function. Using continues focus and back button I simply "grab" the focus where I need it, then wait for the scene to develop and then at the right moment take the shot not touching the back button.
If things aren’t moving, I find the absolute best is manual at 10x preview with focus peaking off. Focus peaking actually obscures the 10x preview fine focus capability. So I keep it off.
Ivan Chow mentions in his video a neat way to focus when using a 14mm wide angle - which is to set the lens to F8 - and manually focus to around 1.5m - and pretty much anything further away will be in focus - taking away the need to continually focus - and allows you to just shoot!.
Ivan who?! This is called hyperfocus. Easier than zone and so old that lenses from the 50’s etc have the markings. Same goes for zone. Timeless techniques.
What you said at 5:30, I was gonna make the same note. My Xe 2 is a pain in AFC, more often than not it’s press and hold to get a shot, AFS let’s me press quick and it focuses then snaps. Personal preference I suppose!
Excellent focus video. Many videos tell you what canera focusing options do but not how to use them in the real world. This provides practical and useful focusing procedures. Many thanks!
Thank you for this video. I shoot with a Sony A7iii and I have been trying to set it up the "right" way for me (focusing wise) your way of setting up focusing feels very natural to me now.
Bro, if the camera started hunting for focus whilst on af/c it will behave exactly the same same way regardless whether you are on af/c or af/s! The way round it is use bba/f and let go of the back Button once the camera acquired focus. Since you are shooting still object then you lock focus on it that way. Back button A/F is best in most cases IMHO.
I have the focus and release dissociated, I think it's great, I use the single front button and it's very accurate with AF-C and continuous tracking. Thanks for this channel.
'back button focus' does not necessarily involve using a button on the back of the camera. I use the back button focus technique but my focus button is F2 which is on the front of my XT4.
Great work, I recently discovered your channel, after 20+ years shooting only analogue I started with digital too and I must admit the settings can be overwhelming. I appreciate your tips, they have helped me a lot in figuring out how to do stuff. Thank you
I tried back button focus for a while but I found that setting a vacant button on the rear of the camera to quickly swap between single shot and servo (canon speak) works much better for me, same result but keeps the ability to just use the shutter button for both.
Always exciting informative and brilliant pièce of cake. Love to see how you deeply peel an aspect of photography and how you explain that in a comprehensive way even for us intermediate photographer… bravo mate 👏
I’ve used manual focus lesnses with my XE2 and X-Pro2 for over 5 years with great results. I programmed the function button to punch in when I press it, so I can quickly check focus. Works for most scenarios apart from sports obviously. But then I don’t shoot sports with Fuji anyway. 😁
I never got used to use the back button AF, but switching it to AF-lock instead makes it possible to have the best of two worlds. I use AF-C and with my thumb I can lock the focus and recompose if I have to. But what ever works för you is good of course:-)
I feel there is not much difference between your preferred mode compared to back button focus. Half of the benefit of back button focus is that all you have to let go of the back button to lock the focus. So really it comes down to what you prefer as the default.
I am not sure about your camera but back button focus for Canon is the only way to go. In this mode, manual focus is always on, don't press any buttons, manual focus, take shot. Canon has 3 back buttons for AF (though most buttons can be reprogrammed, these 3 buttons are easily touched by the thumb). One I set to eye focus which is continuous just hit the button then the shutter button, the second is for spot focus, hit the button and use continuous focus, let go, recompose if you want or not. The third button I have set to change button 2 from spot to wider spot focus or any of the choices available. To move the spot focus in the viewfinder, you can use the joystick but I like using the top right corner of the display touch screen. Once you get use to this, you can jump from manual, to spot, to eye, or to wide spot instantly and move your focus point without your eye leaving the viewfinder.
Concise and quite useful tips for any level of enthusiast of Photography !!! Thanks a lot for sharing your personal point of view over the "focus" subject. See ya, blue skies 📷
отличное видео и огромная вам благодарность! купив пару линз вилтрокс 1.2 был очень огорчен промахами из за постоянных переключений предварительной фокусировки, теперь думаю с блокировкой я смогу это исправить.
Have to think about this one for a bit. I've been shooting my X-T3 in manual focus and using back button focus. I have used face/eye AF for shooting portraits/fashion type shots with a moving model. I'm still a bit confused about using AF-C. Work in progress.... :-)
Thank you so much! I'm now customising my camera buttons to match these tips. I have a Canon and it doesn't have a focus/release button apparently. I'm told that one-shot is always focus priority and servo always release priority, but in practice even in servo mode if it doesn't reach focus it won't snap. Strange. These Fuji cameras sure do look nifty!
Great tips, feel the exactly same way. I would add manual focus for mid-to-close subjects as well: Leaving it at f8 at focus at 1~1,5m and just have fun eyeball for those candic street pix you otherwise couldn't get 👌
Quick question. Why not just leave it in continuous AF on the back button and then when you want to lock focus just stop pressing the back button? You essentially turn continous AF to single AF by just releasing the button.
Dear Roman, thank you for your lovely video. I was just wondering when you where focusing with afc on the bananas where the focus points are “jumping around”, how do you decide for example on which sticker or which banana to focus ? It kinda seemed like it was focusing on the bananas as a whole and like the camera was deciding where exactly to focus. Thank you ! Cheers from Zermatt Martin
single point af-c back button seems best to me for street photography or portraits. All tho tbh since I've switched from af-s shutter button focus I have had a lot of trouble.
Good, thanks. I do the opposite, on AEL/AFL of the XE4, when I maintain I am in AFC and if I release, the focus is locked so if I press once, I am in AFS.
Hello Roman, do you think having a touch screen helps with focus too? I think it may be easier to touch the subject and take the photo, my camera does not have a touch screen
Or, do the opposite in "manual mode?" (I learned to shoot manual from day 1.) I ended up remapping the auto focus control to the front button (along with the related behavior setting set to hold instead of toggle on/off) and use my middle finger while "readying" the shot. Holding the button down (pretty sure) overrides "manual focus" and keeps the camera into "continuous focus mode" even when in manual focus mode. (until button is released) Setup this way I can hold the front button (with index finger) to force/temporarily activate auto-focus mode and when released the focus remains locked in manual (or maybe hold down to keep camera in continuous auto-focus).... Then take the shot. (X-T4)
Great video, like all the others I’ve seen, congratulations! Also owner of a xt4, and trying to config back button like you! But when I set the button AFON to AF-LOCK only, it only locks the focus, it doesn’t start de focus itself.. the focus has to be started by half-pressing the shutter button. Maybe you can help :))
I always use AF-C single spot (small) since years for everything from stills to fast moving objetcs and I don't see a reason to use something else. Only exception is when using Eye-AF, then it's sometimes easier to switch from single spot to wide.
Great content as always Roman. So does this mean the accuracy of small zone (9 focus points) compared to medium zone (25 focus points) will be higher? And do you use small or the medium zone for your street photography?
The thumb focusing trick is such a great street trick too that so many people don’t realize. No one thinks you’re shooting when your thumb is on the shutter instead of your index. You can be a lot more discreet and look like you’re just holding your camera. Especially with a rangefinder body.
Great tips, BTW not sure you are aware, but most Fuji cameras you can set to AF "ALL" mode, and it will switch between modes as you resize the rectangle, so when you make rectangle smaller it will switch to single point focus, bigger - zone, etc., I find it super handy 🙂
holy shit, been using Fuji since 2018 and never knew that 😂 thanks
Agree. I always have it this way and easily switch between single point or zone.
I think it’s worth mentioning that you’d be careful with zone focus when shooting wide on fast lenses. It might pick up the wrong spot and mess up the depth of field.
But having it set up to all is fast to switch between the two.
I had no idea about this. Thank you!
Well you really learn something new everyday ahah, thanks a lot
Wow! That's a brilliant function!
Manual focus with peaking is really useful shooting through glass storefronts or cafes where the camera can have a hard time ignoring reflections and debris stuck to the glass.
100% since learning manual focus/AFL, I never looked back
@@verynick I like a combination of zone and manual, shooting at f5.6 or f8 gives one a pretty large depth of field anyway and you can fine-tune on the fly pretty quick with Fuji's excellent manual focus peaking. And I like to use vintage lenses, so often times I have no choice but to use manual focus.
Thank you. I did enjoy the tip of being in AFC and being able to shot in AFS without switching by simply using the back button in AF lock only. Thanks.
Recommend to use "AF Mode = All" which allows you to scroll from single point to zone to wide to single point. "All" means "all of the three modes", not "all points". No need to go into "AF Mode" anymore, just turn your scroll wheel to get from one single AF point to all you have, no more thinking about single or zone or wide
Damn I use Fuji since 2017 and I just learned about this!
It was really interesting to hear your perspective on this. When using my R5, it is 100% back button focus in continuous AF [Servo] mode. I press and release for single AF. I hold the button for continuous AF. The real beauty of the R5's AF system-missing from my Fuji bodies as well as the new X-H2S-is its _dual_ back button focus, where one button can be configured to focus traditionally on whatever is under the focus point while the other instantly focuses on a subject's eyes. It is hard to overstate the flexibility this system offers when shooting street. I can configure the Eye AF button to initiate focus on the person under the focus point or simply the closest person in a zone of my choosing. (While precisely positioning a focus point has always been a struggle for me, moving a zone left or right is easy.) The whole system is a game changer for anyone who prefers to use AF when shooting street.
So happy I found your channel a while back as I'm still learning new tips regarding photography as well as the functionality of my xt3. Big THANK YOU!
Another useful thing is setting up the AEL/AEF lock to toggle. I find it very uncomfortable having to press and hold the button until taking the shot.
That does defeat the purpose of auto reverting to your preferred mode.
@@suisinghoraceho2403 To a certain extent yes, but having AEL/AEF on toggle you push once to lock and again to unlock and to turn to a preferred mode.
It`s a bit slower for sure, but it works better for some people. I guess that is what matters.
oh wow, best video about operating the camera buttons to actually focus I have ever seen.
Back button focusing is a game changer for me
It's great hearing a reasoned well-paced delivery on this, from someone basing it all on real-life experience rather than the quick-fire latest fad deliveries on other channels, preaching about some new trick they've learnt.
100% agree with you on this subject, glad to know there's common sense out there ;)
Another great explanation of real world camera use. Thank you. Honestly taken together with your other tutorials this is a course on photography.
I've watched this video before but didn't realise about the af button on the back, I have a sony a390 and just put it in to practice, it works a treat, so i can have afc on the shutter button and afs on the back, makes things easier. I need too give that a good workout now, thanks Roman.
Thanks!
Very kind! Thank you!
As mentioned below, I have set my AE-L & AF-L buttons to toggle On/Off , like a light switch. Frees up my thumb for other buttons on my X-T3.Great video as usual, always learn something new .
In AF-S you can focus and then re-adjust the focus on the focus ring, if AF+MF is set to on, which is quite handy in combination with Focus Check On and Focus Peaking as this is the only way how you get half-shutter--pressed focus peaking for full needle sharp focus control.
BUT: even if you have shutter prio for AF-S set to focus AF+MF:on the camera does NOT wait to acquire focus. This sounds obvious now but can be easily overseen - as I experienced.
I use another yet technique to avoid switching to single focus or using focus hold function. Using continues focus and back button I simply "grab" the focus where I need it, then wait for the scene to develop and then at the right moment take the shot not touching the back button.
This is well thought out! Thank you for sharing
The best way for the scenarios you mentioned in my opinion 👍🏻
If things aren’t moving, I find the absolute best is manual at 10x preview with focus peaking off. Focus peaking actually obscures the 10x preview fine focus capability. So I keep it off.
Concise & clear. Thanks for doing this & not even trying to sell something
My method: wide(ish) lens, f/16, infinity at f/16, auto-ISO, pray
the last point got me
Awesome presentation about focusing！
Ivan Chow mentions in his video a neat way to focus when using a 14mm wide angle - which is to set the lens to F8 - and manually focus to around 1.5m - and pretty much anything further away will be in focus - taking away the need to continually focus - and allows you to just shoot!.
Ivan who?! This is called hyperfocus. Easier than zone and so old that lenses from the 50’s etc have the markings. Same goes for zone. Timeless techniques.
I thought I knew all this, but as usual I found out something new - thanks Ronan!
What you said at 5:30, I was gonna make the same note. My Xe 2 is a pain in AFC, more often than not it’s press and hold to get a shot, AFS let’s me press quick and it focuses then snaps. Personal preference I suppose!
I use the front Fn button for my back button focusing. Your second finger rests naturally on this button when you hold the camera.
Excellent focus video. Many videos tell you what canera focusing options do but not how to use them in the real world. This provides practical and useful focusing procedures. Many thanks!
Thank you for this video. I shoot with a Sony A7iii and I have been trying to set it up the "right" way for me (focusing wise) your way of setting up focusing feels very natural to me now.
Bro, if the camera started hunting for focus whilst on af/c it will behave exactly the same same way regardless whether you are on af/c or af/s! The way round it is use bba/f and let go of the back Button once the camera acquired focus. Since you are shooting still object then you lock focus on it that way. Back button A/F is best in most cases IMHO.
I have the focus and release dissociated, I think it's great, I use the single front button and it's very accurate with AF-C and continuous tracking. Thanks for this channel.
Yup! Thats iit!
'back button focus' does not necessarily involve using a button on the back of the camera. I use the back button focus technique but my focus button is F2 which is on the front of my XT4.
Yep, same on the XT5. Fits under my index finger. With small hands this is money
Thank you very much for your kind assistance, explanations... Happy shooting....🌠🐇
KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!
Thanks a lot, focus in busy environments has been tough so this is very helpful!
Great work, I recently discovered your channel, after 20+ years shooting only analogue I started with digital too and I must admit the settings can be overwhelming. I appreciate your tips, they have helped me a lot in figuring out how to do stuff. Thank you
Excellent instructive video. Thank you
This clarifies some things for me, thanks
I tried back button focus for a while but I found that setting a vacant button on the rear of the camera to quickly swap between single shot and servo (canon speak) works much better for me, same result but keeps the ability to just use the shutter button for both.
Always exciting informative and brilliant pièce of cake. Love to see how you deeply peel an aspect of photography and how you explain that in a comprehensive way even for us intermediate photographer… bravo mate 👏
The next step in a brilliant workshop. been so useful and informative. Big pat on the back mate.
I’ve used manual focus lesnses with my XE2 and X-Pro2 for over 5 years with great results. I programmed the function button to punch in when I press it, so I can quickly check focus. Works for most scenarios apart from sports obviously. But then I don’t shoot sports with Fuji anyway. 😁
Spot on man! Well said - zone area/1 point with Continuous AF for me.
Great advice as always but this one really good.....👏👏👏
You are awesome brother ❤
Great and very useful tutorial. 👍🏿
I never got used to use the back button AF, but switching it to AF-lock instead makes it possible to have the best of two worlds. I use AF-C and with my thumb I can lock the focus and recompose if I have to. But what ever works för you is good of course:-)
That's an interesting way of doing it for sure. Thank you for sharing
Very helpful. Thank you very much!
Amazing tips,thank you for making this video!
Awesome! Thanks for the great tips!
Hello I just found your site 😊 great information and clear directions keep up the great work.
I feel there is not much difference between your preferred mode compared to back button focus. Half of the benefit of back button focus is that all you have to let go of the back button to lock the focus. So really it comes down to what you prefer as the default.
Very well explained, thank you!
I really like this video as well as the last two. Thanks a lot! 👏
Great video as always!
I am not sure about your camera but back button focus for Canon is the only way to go. In this mode, manual focus is always on, don't press any buttons, manual focus, take shot. Canon has 3 back buttons for AF (though most buttons can be reprogrammed, these 3 buttons are easily touched by the thumb). One I set to eye focus which is continuous just hit the button then the shutter button, the second is for spot focus, hit the button and use continuous focus, let go, recompose if you want or not. The third button I have set to change button 2 from spot to wider spot focus or any of the choices available. To move the spot focus in the viewfinder, you can use the joystick but I like using the top right corner of the display touch screen. Once you get use to this, you can jump from manual, to spot, to eye, or to wide spot instantly and move your focus point without your eye leaving the viewfinder.
Interesting!
Another well done video. Really enjoying and learning from your weekly episodes.
Concise and quite useful tips for any level of enthusiast of Photography !!! Thanks a lot for sharing your personal point of view over the "focus" subject. See ya, blue skies 📷
Yes, absolutely.
Just found this channel. Wonderful content. I've been a professional photographer for the past 7 years and I've picked up some great tips here.
Really great video, great tips and explanations.
отличное видео и огромная вам благодарность! купив пару линз вилтрокс 1.2 был очень огорчен промахами из за постоянных переключений предварительной фокусировки, теперь думаю с блокировкой я смогу это исправить.
Nice video Roman. I use a very old Canon EOS 30D but like you say, your info is all transferable to other cameras.
Have to think about this one for a bit. I've been shooting my X-T3 in manual focus and using back button focus. I have used face/eye AF for shooting portraits/fashion type shots with a moving model. I'm still a bit confused about using AF-C. Work in progress.... :-)
Thank you so much! I'm now customising my camera buttons to match these tips. I have a Canon and it doesn't have a focus/release button apparently. I'm told that one-shot is always focus priority and servo always release priority, but in practice even in servo mode if it doesn't reach focus it won't snap. Strange. These Fuji cameras sure do look nifty!
Yeah! Fuji x-t4 is pretty versatile that way!
Great tips, feel the exactly same way. I would add manual focus for mid-to-close subjects as well: Leaving it at f8 at focus at 1~1,5m and just have fun eyeball for those candic street pix you otherwise couldn't get 👌
Yeah. Absolutely
Focus lock was my solution to the back button focus dilemma. My preference would be a shutter focus toggle
Maybe I did not find it, but I would love to see a video in which you explain your personal focus&recompose techniques 👍🙏
I also sometimes forget to change the AF mode and get blurry pictures at the end of the day. Nice to hear that I‘m not the only one. 😅
Super concise and applicable tips. Thanks 🙏🏻
Thank you, I am enjoying this little series of Tips 😎😎
whem you use AF-LOCK do ju use: AE&AF ON WHEN PRESSING OR AE&AF ON/OFF SWITCH?
just wondering if there is a way to customize button to switch between spot and zone focus quickly?
do you usually use focus priority or shutter priority?
Great explanation. Thank you
Hi, thanks for video. A question: why do you prefer AF-lock instead wide area with tracking to recompose?
Quick question. Why not just leave it in continuous AF on the back button and then when you want to lock focus just stop pressing the back button? You essentially turn continous AF to single AF by just releasing the button.
5:10 👍🏾
Dear Roman, thank you for your lovely video.
I was just wondering when you where focusing with afc on the bananas where the focus points are “jumping around”, how do you decide for example on which sticker or which banana to focus ? It kinda seemed like it was focusing on the bananas as a whole and like the camera was deciding where exactly to focus. Thank you !
Cheers from Zermatt
Martin
hi im thinking of getting either the 33 or 23mm f1.4. which do you think would a better choice to pair with my 18mmf2 fuji lens?
single point af-c back button seems best to me for street photography or portraits. All tho tbh since I've switched from af-s shutter button focus I have had a lot of trouble.
Great video upload and full watching! Thanks for sharing and have a great day.
Good, thanks. I do the opposite, on AEL/AFL of the XE4, when I maintain I am in AFC and if I release, the focus is locked so if I press once, I am in AFS.
Hello Roman, do you think having a touch screen helps with focus too? I think it may be easier to touch the subject and take the photo, my camera does not have a touch screen
Or, do the opposite in "manual mode?" (I learned to shoot manual from day 1.) I ended up remapping the auto focus control to the front button (along with the related behavior setting set to hold instead of toggle on/off) and use my middle finger while "readying" the shot. Holding the button down (pretty sure) overrides "manual focus" and keeps the camera into "continuous focus mode" even when in manual focus mode. (until button is released)
Setup this way I can hold the front button (with index finger) to force/temporarily activate auto-focus mode and when released the focus remains locked in manual (or maybe hold down to keep camera in continuous auto-focus).... Then take the shot. (X-T4)
Great video. Thank you.
Best videp to the topic. Nice pictures, too. May You please add some EXIF Data to the photos shown? (Objectiv, f, shutterpeed, filsimulatio) thanks!😊
I believe manual focus is best for professional photographs such as graduation photos, weddings etc
Thanks Roman
Great video, like all the others I’ve seen, congratulations! Also owner of a xt4, and trying to config back button like you! But when I set the button AFON to AF-LOCK only, it only locks the focus, it doesn’t start de focus itself.. the focus has to be started by half-pressing the shutter button. Maybe you can help :))
I always use AF-C single spot (small) since years for everything from stills to fast moving objetcs and I don't see a reason to use something else. Only exception is when using Eye-AF, then it's sometimes easier to switch from single spot to wide.
Great content as always Roman. So does this mean the accuracy of small zone (9 focus points) compared to medium zone (25 focus points) will be higher? And do you use small or the medium zone for your street photography?
5:30 for that reason separate AF and shutter.. on my A7-III I use C-AF but it is separated from the shutter button. This IMO is the best solution
Cool man, thank u!
Hiii, what is the Best lens for xt3, I do photography and some videos
Thanks for the video!
What about combining Auto focus with Manual focus on the Fuji?
awesome tips
Many thanks.
Love your videos. I always learn so much. Too bad you don’t do workshops in my location.
Great wideo, thanks, keep up the good work
what is the default for the zone tracking one? i couldnt understand what you said
Probably I missed it, but does af-s allows faster burst mode than af-c?
It depends on the camera. Some has a higher burst rate at afs mode.
af-c means the camera has to refocus before every photo captured, which adds a small amount of time.
Nice, thank you