I’m not a photographer, I don’t have time, working 6 days a week, but when I go outdoor with my son, or when I see something from my car, I stop and I take a snap for instagram with my iPhone. Few years ago, I started to watch youtubers teaching us how to make good photos. After a while I noticed I lose my time because most of the big names are playing the same song, ending showing off how good they are. Except you. Your videos are straight to the point, clear information, nothing going bla bla. Thank You for that. George.
Finally an honest human being. Most of iPhone users calling themselves a master photographers while automatics doing everythyng for them. Thats not how it works. Cheers dude.
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Exactly what I think. I've just discovered Roman's channel, and this is what I like. Humble, yet very informative. New subscriber.
How I setup my fuji is that I use aperture priority and auto-iso. Fuji has a great auto-iso setting. Being able to set the lowest shutter speed and max iso basically makes it good for any type of photography. In addition I then have my exposure compensation on my right hand thumb wheel. I'd say this is far superior mode than manual for control and speed.
The only 'pros' that really ALWAYS shoot in manual are studio photographers or others using flash. I would say aperture priority or shutter priority are used by most others depending on whether they care more about controlling depth of field or motion blur respectively. Auto ISO with cameras with decent high ISO performance has made this a far easier way to shoot. The Fuji user interface, with manual physical controls for shutter speed, aperture and ISO, make shooting manual far simpler than most other systems.
Not really. As Roman mentions it when the lighting conditions do not change or vary much or are difficult, manual mode is in fact faster and more accurate (if the photographer is capable of accurate metering). Still, many pros have used film and manual cameras for years and are still using their digital cameras in manual mode most of the time, myself included. As for Fuji simplicity for use in manual mode, I have used Fuji, Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Leica and Hasselblad in manual mode I have not found anyone superior to any other. Cameras with an Electronic Viewfinder are a nice plus though (all the above-mentioned brand have that in their bag now).
Coming from a film background that was the main reason I went with Fuji. I like using manual dials because I am a tactile person. Touch screens on cameras have there uses and I will sometimes engage on my XT20.
Definitely agree with you, use high ISO with high shutter speed. If the noise is a real issue, it can typically be fixed in post. Focus and shutter speed can’t.
I always using manual lens whether Voigtlander,Nikkor and new TTArtisan, don't be worried about manual focus, modern bodies can really help you out and it is a great experience. Be sure to enable focus peaking on high, that way the camera will highlight what's in focus.
In 1991 I took a photography class in college as an elective and it changed my life, in the sense that I learned how to use a manual SLR camera, develop film and make prints. I borrowed my Dad's Minolta SRT101. I ruined film, made every rookie mistake you could make. But my takeaway was how the camera worked and how to correctly expose negatives. Thanks to learning it old school, I can use a modern digital camera exactly the same way... because all of those old school features come on new cameras still. I say that to say this- if you are serious about photography it is worth your time to learn how to shoot film on an old SLR. A film camera on ebay is a thousand dollars cheaper than a new DSLR and it will make you an expert.
Yes and then you have to pay for film and processing, or better... learn buy and learn darkroom. It is a different ball-game. One can be serious and stick with digital without any problem these days there many advantages (except the original price of equipment although these days the difference is getting smaller and you get better lenses. Yesterday's lens resolution (for film) is far under today's lenses' resolution which are designed for high sensor resolution. Owning or even using tool whatever the field does not suddenly make anyone into an expert. Work does be it with film or digital.
The triangle - ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed, most photographers, make it confusing to understand, but man, you straight-forwardly solved almost everything. Very true. I have started doing this with my fuji xt3 recently. I wasn't sure if I was doing right or wrong, as you have experience, you made it very clear that I can follow these rules and not mess up with almost everything with the settings while taking a shot. Thanks for this video. I really needed it as a confirmation I am not doing wrong. I always shoot in manual since the beginning, but thousands of times, I have messed it up and missed shots...
You’re a great UA-camr. I love that you came from contribution and waited until the end to ask for likes and subscriptions. By the time I made it there I had already done both and that’s the way it should work. We should not hear anymore about the algorithm and smashing like buttons.
Honestly the detail you go into mate here without overwhelming the most basic of photographer is astounding. I watch you because you're a fuji guy, but I love the way you talk as well and explain things. You shot very similarly to the way I do. Keep up the good work bud. Think you might be quite close to me too I'm in Gloucestershire!
This is an awesome video thank you, I’ve been getting frustrated trying to get the shot and adjusting all 3 settings to get the iso as low as possible and I would always miss the shot.. by taking two out of the equation by using the shutter speed makes so much sense! Thank you!
I kind of do what you've explained here so well. The thing that gets me sometimes is that fact that my only Fuji AF lens is currently the 18-55mm which has a variable aperture over the focal length range. So, sometimes I am not quick enough to catch that aperture change and mess up a shot. Thanks again for a great instructional video!
Excellent lesson. One alternative would be to use auto ISO with an 800 limit. That would take ISO off the table and keep the noise relatively under control. Then, only two settings to consider unless light is really dim. Roman, keep up the fine work.
Subscribed a couple of weeks ago after finding your channel. Love the fact you give your real world views on how to do things. This video is amazing, I struggle trying to get the right exposure triangle fiddling with all three parameters. This method makes so much sense and gives you freedom to take the shot, also if you know your ss dial you don’t even need to look, it’s just a click or so away from what you’re looking for. Great advice, many thanks Roman.
Thank you so much. I’ve been watching many of your videos, and in every single one you’ve made me understand the basics way more than I could in class.
With regards to iso i have a compact point and shoot camera with a sensor smaller than a normal apsc crop sensor (and use a film camera) and even at iso 800 the noise/grain is barely noticable. You are always better off having a higher iso to gain leverage of shutter speed. A blurry photo is worse than a grainy photo 9 out of 10 times. Also manual focus using zone focusing is ideal for most fast paced photography situations.
This is why I like to use manual with auto iso. It means I can adjust the shutter and aperture to my preferred setting, and then let the camera choose whatever iso it needs. I have the max iso capped at 1600 as after this point my camera introduces too much grain.
I’m a person that has dabbled in photography for many years, but just recently started trying to get better. These videos from Roman have been great for me, giving me both inspiration and real world technical know-how. If you’re ever in Southern California and doing workshops, I’d really like to join in. Thanks!
Thanks for the thorough review of manual settings. I don't like setting my ISO during the day and I'm always in A priority with AutoISO minimum shutter of 250 with exposure comp. That really makes me focus on the scene and enjoy photography. All manual in low light of course.
Setting a minimum shutter speed when you’re in aperture priority is also good so you can set it to like 1/50 or 1/100 to get most your shots sharp. Before that I was kind of hesitant letting the camera choose shutter speed for me.
That's it. Of course you will have to raise that shutter speed on certain scenes if you want to avoid motion blur, but the principle is the way to go and so liberating when I first learned it.
??? by definition if you are in Aperture priority, the camera selects the appropriate shutter speed not you. If your camera allows that (which I have not seen yet), hay, there's the rub as you may end up not being able to take your photograph unless you are also in automatic ISO mode. I must be missing something here.
@@BrunoChalifour Yes, aperture priority but with "Auto ISO minimum shutter speed". You control the aperture, the camera controls ISO and SS, but by setting a minimum (to avoid motion blur) the camera will prioritize the ISO adjustment over the shutter speed. Most modern cameras have that or there are workarounds. In that mode if still underexposed it will have to hit your max ISO setting (say 6400, 8000, etc...) before it starts going lower than the minimum shutter speed. At that point it's probably night time so I would just go manual so you can dial in the ISO yourself and save you some stops of noise. Otherwise during the day the A-AISO-MINSS is perfect for street: set the camera to F8, min SS at 250, forget about the camera and just focus on subjects.
Nice video. I shot in manual for several yesrs but now i mostly shoot in aputure priority. But only with minimum and maximum set shutter speeds and minimum and maximum iso. Only if i need motion blur or have a fast scene where i want to freeze motion i will change to manual (or for astro or on my manual lenses) The rest i dial in with aputurecorrecting dial and watch to the histogram.:)🔥 so i can expose for highlights too..
GREAT VIDEO! I'm a veteran shooting street photography in Manual Mode with my Nikon D750 DSLR and lately been shooting with manual focus lenses as a change of pace: Thanks for this info! HG- Chicago
Cartier-Bresson shot at 1/125 all the time, and opened or closed the aperture based on the light. It’s all about eliminating extra things to think about, same with shooting (mainly) one focal length.
I use an older camera and so the ISO is noiser earlier- and of course I'm a different photographer. So the settings I use are quite different. But the logic is exactly the same and so I agree pretty much with everything here. I learned the Sunny 16 method first, and that's a handy guide if you're baffled, but I had to abandon it eventually for a similar system to the one stated (but as said slightly different due to camera difference and my own style.)
I really appreciate the time and effort you put in to making these videos. Thank you so much. I’m new to Fuji and to street photography. It’s so reassuring and comforting to hear you talk about both! Thank you again for producing these very helpful videos.
Great points Roman! I had numerous issues when I was in manual and light changed quickly. The arrogance of manual mode got me. 😖 Now I try to keep an open mind and aperture priority rocks. After all, cameras are also there to work for you. 🤞
on the x100v i find it quickest to leave the camera in aperture priority with shutter speed and iso in auto. If the camera is struggling to meter the scene properly to expose for the highlights i'll quickly just dial the exposure comp up or down slightly to suit the scene
Like how you explained with the scenario makes it easier to understand. I've got my first camera less than a week ago. Now trying to understand the manual settings. Been waiting few videos but still a bit confused. Your video makes me understand clearly also sounds very practical. I just need to go out there a try now. Thank you 🙏🏽 pls keep up the good work
I shoot mostly wildlife now. I use a lot of auto ISO while I control the aperture and shutter speed. Most newer cameras can go to a surprisingly high ISO before it really becomes an issue. I don't mind some noise and if it is too much I can try to clean it up in post.
I do this too for street photography. In Auto ISO the camera will a good job of always choosing the lowest ISO that gives you proper exposure given your other settings. This alllows me to concnetrate on shutter speed and aperture to get the look I want. I have had good luck using Topaz DeNoise AI to clean up very grainy shots. It works like magic. So I don't worry about high ISO any more.
This was very useful. You gave some practical information and advices I was allways missing. The method you presented helps me a lot and gives me a good starting point to practice and learn more. Thank you!
Even though I know almost everything about settings on my camera, still got to learn how to not miss a shot. Great videos. Subbed for lifetime. Love From India ❤️
Thank you. I always tried to keep shutter fixed at, say, 500 and control the exposure through ISO only (for the ease of turning only one dial). Always had problems with this approach. Had to raise ISO in dark areas to 6400, and ISO 160 was not low enough in very bright areas. So I ended up turning two dials most of the time (ISO and shutter). Your Method works much better. No problem with ISO 500 as default.
Exposure comp. dial does the same thing just more intuitive, within the set perimeters of min shutter and max. acceptable iso. The only advantage for street photography going shutter dial route is controling the motion blur. This actually sounded more like shooting in shutter priority then truly shooting manual. Correct me please if I am wrong.
Thanks for this video! Even after years of photography, I still often find myself unsure of what setting to change when I have to react quickly, although I know what those settings do. Having a quick way to react is a great idea! And setting up the camera as soon as the light changes is a great piece of advice, thanks!
Fantastic! What a lesson to learn, preparation and observation of the place moment and time! It’s full marks from me and I think that’s a full house! DG New Forest UK
Some people feel more comfortable driving automatic cars. Some people prefer manual. It also depends on the situation and the vehicle. But then there are those who love the whole mechanics of connecting to the vehicle through manual operation regardless of the details. In photography, it's all about the destination, not the ride.
Great stuff. For for me, with my X-T4, I always have aperture on manual. For the rest if there's plenty of light I'll usually let Auto ISO handle it - with my hopping between my 1, 2 lr 3 Auto ISO categories depending on how broadly fast I want the shutter speed to be. I have my front control dial set to Exposure Compensation that I have areally instant way to adjust exposure. Auto ISO is great at keeping ISO as low as possible and then speeding up the shutter speed once that ISO bottoms-out, which is exactly what I'd do anyway in full manual so I let the computer handle it. But, when the light gets lower, it makes more sense to take over the shutter speed manually. Or, sometimes, in low light I'll just set the ISO to something I can just about tolerate and see if that makes the shutter speed fast enough. Stuff like that.
I keep my ISO mostly at 640 for a few reasons. DR400% preserves the highlights far better than base ISO, and it just makes life easier. Slight noise in the shadows doesn't bother me. Sometimes I use aperture priority with DR400 setting and just use the exposure comp dial. Just gotta be careful not to over/underexpose too much. I find there's only about +/- 1 stop of leeway when using the DR setting, especially with film simulation recipes.
That is the point you got right: "Just gotta be careful not to over/underexpose too much." Now saying that 640 ISO preserve highlights BETTER than base ISO is a hard tale to believe.
@@BrunoChalifour Just check out Pal2tech's video on it. DR400 preserves highlights far better than 160. Even in raw files. It's not without compromises, since the sensor is reading and storing dual gain output, so the shadows will be noisier. The way I see it, I'm just trading the shadow dynamic range to be used in the highlights. Edit: It also makes sense if you think about how F-log has a base of 640 iso. The highest possible dynamic range is actually not at base, but at 640.
@@professionalpotato4764 DR400 cannot invent information that the sensor (and its raw format) did not see. It is simply impossible. If you want to trade the shadows for the highlights all it takes is to shift the exposure toward the highlights. All that DR400 does is "false" HDR (artificially lightening the shadows at the risk of exposing noise, and there is more noise at 640 iso than 160 that is why I choose 160 over 640 if the lighting conditions allow it). There is strictly no extension of DR (it is scientifically impossible unless, and this would also be artificial, artificial intelligence on the camera processor invented the missing information. In any case we are not speaking then of DR but of an image created by artificial intelligence from the raw image. Remember that 640 iso is just the information provided by the 160 iso sensor once boosted which does increase noise (especially visible in the shadows)... it is just a fact.
@@BrunoChalifour It doesn't invent or create information. It simply reads the highlights at 160 and shadows at 640. Similar to how the Canon C70 works. That's why I said it's a compromise. You won't get perfectly clean images. But does it have better highlight retention? Yes. Noise at 640 is perfectly treatable with noise reduction too. Yes you lose detail. Again, compromises. I don't do large prints, so the minor detail loss means nothing to me. Did you watch the video I linked?
My favorite way to shoot especially in dynamic situations: manual aperture and shutter speed, auto iso with exposure compensation assigned to one of the dials on my right hand. I agree that fully manual settings are great for controlled situations like landscape and studio, but in street photography sometimes you don’t have the time to fiddle with exposure when your shot is walking right past.
I really resonate with your presentation style and would like to learn with you directly one day inshallah. Meanwhile, I've watched this video several times and going to give it a go. Thank you, you're a generous teacher
Being a landscape photographer, I use aperture priority with auto ISO. I keep exposure one stop under and 'lock' it. Sometimes I change ISO manually and exposure. Using mostly 24-104mm lens, I tend to try shoot between 80 & 200. Got a few great water rapid shots today using 3 stops under with a tripod. Using the 5D IV and 'L' lens of course. The combo allows me some pretty high ISO's with still nice pictures if needed, like last week in a cave shooting with limited light and too lazy to remove the polarizing filter.. lol
When I first got my Fuji I learnt using manual exposure. I have used aperture priority but always seem to go back to manual with auto iso. I will try these settings as I like the flexibility the higher iso gives you .
An excellent way of explaining this topic. I am looking forward to more ideas of your way of doing things. Thanks for this, Roman, it makes it a lot easier to remember!
Lots of great insights, thank you. Digital is such a sticky wicket, too many choices plus the ability to shoot a huge amount of photos at no added cost and I'm suddenly wading through 60 photos of the same damn duck. For me, understanding workflow and planning a methodology is about being able to focus on composition and (hopefully) take less photos.
Thanks heaps Roman I love your work It’s always very enlightening and of course entertaining Great advice and especially liked the video as I have an XT-4 which I love 😊
I find all of your advices very useful and not just for street photography. Personally, I am going to focus more on shutter speed which unfortunately too often turns out to be too low. Great video! Thanks.
I always use manual exposure on my Fuji films I set a fixed aperture to a safety time based on what I have to photograph and then I use the ISO fair to compensate the exposure. And on the Fuji xt5 it's fine to do this since the dials are softer
Good advice. Thank you. Basically all of the time I use my aperture ring, half of the time I will use the shutter speed dial and for ISO I mostly use auto ISO and just limit that to either 1600, 3200 or 6400 depending on the light...I should really change that behavior. Keep up the good work.
Since I am old and my muscle memory is not so good I have set my manual focus ring to change the ISO. This way I have only to turn the manual focus ring to get the the proper exposure after setting the shutter speed and aperture initially. I tried auto ISO but the scene gets dark when in bright light and vice versa and one has to lock the exposure and then compose. Now I compose first and then turn the manual focus ring ever so slightly to set the exposure. This method has given me many keepers.
Notes: Use Manual Mode When: ---Challenging light, Consistent light ---Motion Blur, Freeze Motion ---Slow Down or Focus on Process ---Need Full Control for A specific scene No Manual Mode When: ---Constantly changing light ---Fast Paced Environment ISO ---Bright & constant daylight = Base (160) ---Overcast & constant light = (320) ---High contrast & changing light = (320-500) Aperture ---Excess light, less separation, sharpest image = f8 - f11 Shutter Speed 1/125 - 1/4000 Ideally around 1/500 minimum
Good video, the only thing you forgot to take into account is that highlight centric metering modes exist (tho not on Fuji`s , which you seem to shoot) . So that helps you use either A or S priority in those high contrast scenes where you want the highlight parts metered correctly. That's been a life-saving metering mode ever since Nikon introduced it in late 2014. And it's sad that my X100V doesn't have it.
I always shoot fully manual. Bur my subjects normally do not move :)) My experience with the XT3 is that in dark lighting the ISO 640 is perfect without any noise problems. I never use the ISO's between 160 and 640. It even makes it more simpler. In the XT3 engine at ISO 640 extra noise reduction is activated (for RAW). Yes at night I do use max ISO 1600 and will open more the lens. But as you I do like to adjust mostly with the shutterspeed to get the histogram OK, Aperture and ISO do stay the same most of the time.
Not that it matters that much, but you’re talking about f/4 on APS-C, that would be f/5.6 full frame equivalent. If you have time I would suggest looking into depth of field. Intuitively you can focus manually or autofocus on a mid point (1/3 of the way between closest and furthest point you want in focus) and check the image with the lens closed down (take the pic or press DoF preview button).
I generally like to be in control of two of my settings instead of the camera being in control of two of them. A rarely use aperture priority mode. I mostly shoot in manual mode but if the light is changing a lot then I will use auto ISO. That way I control the depth of field and the shutter speed.
Before I made the switch to Fuji from canon earlier in the year, I would always rely heavily on just adjusting the SS. since changing to Fuji I explored the world of AP mode. And while it's good for certain circumstances, I've got so used to being 95% manual, I found it easier switching back to this on the Fuji recently. The dials are fun too.
Lovely video..cleared all my doubts.. the other day I had gone for a photo walk and the first shot I took was way under expose when I was using AP. I was wondering why? At F8,1/500 and base iso. I still couldn’t figure out why the shot was underexpose on a dark background. This video has help me understand the exposure triangle better and hopefully will not make the same mistake again and miss a shot. What about focusing mode would you use with your manual settings or AP?
All good stuff and using a mix and match for various situations. Though I must admit to using auto ISO base to 800 250th & 5.6 both of which can be altered quickly as you said.
Bit confused Roman … in your Aperture priority video you used the example of the hat and the red post box for spot metering and using AEL, yet in this one you used the same images stating definitely manual only (you can’t use AEL in manual can you?) - I wonder if you can clarify please as these are the images I like taking, but sometimes struggle with the concept of ‘exposing for the highlights’ in manual. Thanks
6:25 ah so anywhere in wales, the weather here is so backwards at times, it will be sunny for a hour in the morning and then lashing down rain in the afternoon I struggle to use manual in these conditions its why now I try and just use Av. The same now goes for video I don't bother changing the ISO everytime I leave the house or a dark room I just let it sit at Auto, I wish there was more people like you on youtube Roman I've been fooled by the pros to always use manual in any condition which I'm glad I learned this is not the case early in my career.
Great informative video as always, I used to shoot a lot in manual but I switched to AP, as to diminish the number of variables to change in case I had to be quick. Now I feel like I over-rely on it a tad too much, which I'm traing to change as to ascertain that I don't settle on it out of easiness/lazyness.
I agree with your settings. but I think you have to think about where are you going to show the pictures - Shutterfly, Instagram, large format printed picturedifference as to what quality you need for the end result. I shoot a lot of sports photos to post on Shutterfly using my X-T2 and a 100-400 lens. I set my aperture to give me a greater depth of field to get better in focus shots, I use a 500 to 800th shutter speed to allow some motion blur, anklet the ISO float. Obviously, for street photography or landscape shots I would use a different set-up. So, before you set-up the settings, you need to consider the where the shots are viewed, how much motion in the type of photography you are done, and can you use a tripod to hold the camera and take high quality shots. Love your channel, and you inspoire me to get out and take more shots. Thanks
Whilst you may have a base of say ISO200, you may well find the optimum is ISO400. Cameras have NR for high iso and they seem to optimize above base. And again whilst all digital cameras degrade above ISO3200, modern ones can produce pretty acceptable results at ISO6400 or higher. Obviously high ISO is not for fine landscape or portrait. Don't be afraid of high iso. Ymmv. Most cameras have a few metering modes, full, centre-weighted, spot, hi-light spot, lo-light spot. Use them. A few cameras can use auto-iso with exposure compensation +/-EV on the fly. Keep an eye on the iso but you can quickly compensate for backlit for example. A few of your shots, great foreground but the sky and clouds washed out to white. Play with the highlight/shadow gain curves to bring detail back in. If you have serious stabilisation you can hand hold a standard lens down to about 1/20s if you're steady or run and gun at 1/60s, but that will not freeze motion blur. A 1/500s will freeze motion of birds. Aperture is mainly for DoF. Most lenses sharpen up a click or two from wide open. Some lenses degrade above f/11, a good one will be happy at sunny-16. Think about the aperture when framing the shot. The aperture is not just for reducing the light. Know your lens. There are no rules.
I just started my photographic journey and your videos are great. Thanks for sharing tips and knowledge. Quick question : what's the interest of ND filters? I don't understand the value of using one to add stops to get the aperture wide open. Wouldn't we reach a same outcome by using a smaller aperture and no nd filter? Thank you.
Wondering if I could get some advice. I have an XT-3 with the 18-55mm lens. I find night time photography a nightmare with this - I generally need to zoom to get a proportional looking image of some cars and it bumps the aperture to F4 at the highest. Last night I had to shoot at 1/15 handheld, on burst to get a focused image, with a 3200 ISO - in hindsight, I should’ve probably cranked this to 6400 and increased my shutter speed slightly but still ended up with shots too dark. Really happy with the lens during the day and at dusk, it’s very good but night time under a street lamp or something is just not doing it for me. Was considering a tripod to really slow the shutter but thinking I might need to go with something like a 35mm prime. If I went with these low light settings, I’d end up with really dark image.
Not sure if you're up to answering questions on two year old posts, buuuuut. X-T5, mostly with 35mm f/1.4 - I tend to push ISO *way* more often than shutter speed. (Another video of yours just slapped my wrist for leaving my aperture wide open all the time, so let's pretend I'm at 5.6 or 4 or what not.) Should I be futzing with shutter speed more than ISO? I'm asking because to me I'm risking motion blur with shutter speed, and only risking noise with ISO. Is that a wrong/bad/less ideal way to look at it?
I’m not a photographer, I don’t have time, working 6 days a week, but when I go outdoor with my son, or when I see something from my car, I stop and I take a snap for instagram with my iPhone. Few years ago, I started to watch youtubers teaching us how to make good photos. After a while I noticed I lose my time because most of the big names are playing the same song, ending showing off how good they are. Except you. Your videos are straight to the point, clear information, nothing going bla bla. Thank You for that. George.
Totally agree with you George
Finally an honest human being. Most of iPhone users calling themselves a master photographers while automatics doing everythyng for them. Thats not how it works. Cheers dude.
Exactly what I think. I've just discovered Roman's channel, and this is what I like. Humble, yet very informative. New subscriber.
How I setup my fuji is that I use aperture priority and auto-iso. Fuji has a great auto-iso setting. Being able to set the lowest shutter speed and max iso basically makes it good for any type of photography. In addition I then have my exposure compensation on my right hand thumb wheel. I'd say this is far superior mode than manual for control and speed.
This is exactly what I came to the comments to say. The auto iso settings are excellent.
The only 'pros' that really ALWAYS shoot in manual are studio photographers or others using flash.
I would say aperture priority or shutter priority are used by most others depending on whether they care more about controlling depth of field or motion blur respectively. Auto ISO with cameras with decent high ISO performance has made this a far easier way to shoot.
The Fuji user interface, with manual physical controls for shutter speed, aperture and ISO, make shooting manual far simpler than most other systems.
Not really. As Roman mentions it when the lighting conditions do not change or vary much or are difficult, manual mode is in fact faster and more accurate (if the photographer is capable of accurate metering). Still, many pros have used film and manual cameras for years and are still using their digital cameras in manual mode most of the time, myself included.
As for Fuji simplicity for use in manual mode, I have used Fuji, Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Leica and Hasselblad in manual mode I have not found anyone superior to any other. Cameras with an Electronic Viewfinder are a nice plus though (all the above-mentioned brand have that in their bag now).
Coming from a film background that was the main reason I went with Fuji. I like using manual dials because I am a tactile person. Touch screens on cameras have there uses and I will sometimes engage on my XT20.
I shoot manual with everything, just a control freak i think
There are some other pros as well, that depending on what camera and shooting style as well
@@magnuschristensson9980 Absolurely.
Definitely agree with you, use high ISO with high shutter speed. If the noise is a real issue, it can typically be fixed in post. Focus and shutter speed can’t.
I always using manual lens whether Voigtlander,Nikkor and new TTArtisan, don't be worried about manual focus, modern bodies can really help you out and it is a great experience. Be sure to enable focus peaking on high, that way the camera will highlight what's in focus.
This video is about exposure, not focussing.
In 1991 I took a photography class in college as an elective and it changed my life, in the sense that I learned how to use a manual SLR camera, develop film and make prints. I borrowed my Dad's Minolta SRT101. I ruined film, made every rookie mistake you could make. But my takeaway was how the camera worked and how to correctly expose negatives. Thanks to learning it old school, I can use a modern digital camera exactly the same way... because all of those old school features come on new cameras still. I say that to say this- if you are serious about photography it is worth your time to learn how to shoot film on an old SLR. A film camera on ebay is a thousand dollars cheaper than a new DSLR and it will make you an expert.
Yes and then you have to pay for film and processing, or better... learn buy and learn darkroom. It is a different ball-game. One can be serious and stick with digital without any problem these days there many advantages (except the original price of equipment although these days the difference is getting smaller and you get better lenses. Yesterday's lens resolution (for film) is far under today's lenses' resolution which are designed for high sensor resolution. Owning or even using tool whatever the field does not suddenly make anyone into an expert. Work does be it with film or digital.
The triangle - ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed, most photographers, make it confusing to understand, but man, you straight-forwardly solved almost everything. Very true. I have started doing this with my fuji xt3 recently. I wasn't sure if I was doing right or wrong, as you have experience, you made it very clear that I can follow these rules and not mess up with almost everything with the settings while taking a shot. Thanks for this video. I really needed it as a confirmation I am not doing wrong. I always shoot in manual since the beginning, but thousands of times, I have messed it up and missed shots...
You’re a great UA-camr. I love that you came from contribution and waited until the end to ask for likes and subscriptions. By the time I made it there I had already done both and that’s the way it should work. We should not hear anymore about the algorithm and smashing like buttons.
Honestly the detail you go into mate here without overwhelming the most basic of photographer is astounding. I watch you because you're a fuji guy, but I love the way you talk as well and explain things. You shot very similarly to the way I do. Keep up the good work bud. Think you might be quite close to me too I'm in Gloucestershire!
This is an awesome video thank you, I’ve been getting frustrated trying to get the shot and adjusting all 3 settings to get the iso as low as possible and I would always miss the shot.. by taking two out of the equation by using the shutter speed makes so much sense! Thank you!
I kind of do what you've explained here so well. The thing that gets me sometimes is that fact that my only Fuji AF lens is currently the 18-55mm which has a variable aperture over the focal length range. So, sometimes I am not quick enough to catch that aperture change and mess up a shot. Thanks again for a great instructional video!
Excellent lesson. One alternative would be to use auto ISO with an 800 limit. That would take ISO off the table and keep the noise relatively under control. Then, only two settings to consider unless light is really dim. Roman, keep up the fine work.
Thats the way I've got mine set up. Ive got 3 different auto ISO ranges that I'll use depending on the light at the time
Subscribed a couple of weeks ago after finding your channel. Love the fact you give your real world views on how to do things. This video is amazing, I struggle trying to get the right exposure triangle fiddling with all three parameters. This method makes so much sense and gives you freedom to take the shot, also if you know your ss dial you don’t even need to look, it’s just a click or so away from what you’re looking for. Great advice, many thanks Roman.
Thank you so much. I’ve been watching many of your videos, and in every single one you’ve made me understand the basics way more than I could in class.
With regards to iso i have a compact point and shoot camera with a sensor smaller than a normal apsc crop sensor (and use a film camera) and even at iso 800 the noise/grain is barely noticable. You are always better off having a higher iso to gain leverage of shutter speed. A blurry photo is worse than a grainy photo 9 out of 10 times. Also manual focus using zone focusing is ideal for most fast paced photography situations.
This is why I like to use manual with auto iso. It means I can adjust the shutter and aperture to my preferred setting, and then let the camera choose whatever iso it needs. I have the max iso capped at 1600 as after this point my camera introduces too much grain.
I think I have learnt more from watching three of your videos than from a month of daily UA-cam-versity!! Thank you
I’m a person that has dabbled in photography for many years, but just recently started trying to get better. These videos from Roman have been great for me, giving me both inspiration and real world technical know-how. If you’re ever in Southern California and doing workshops, I’d really like to join in. Thanks!
Thanks for the thorough review of manual settings. I don't like setting my ISO during the day and I'm always in A priority with AutoISO minimum shutter of 250 with exposure comp. That really makes me focus on the scene and enjoy photography. All manual in low light of course.
Setting a minimum shutter speed when you’re in aperture priority is also good so you can set it to like 1/50 or 1/100 to get most your shots sharp. Before that I was kind of hesitant letting the camera choose shutter speed for me.
This right here 👍🏿. Minimum shutter and a good aperture has given me the not out of my camera
That's it. Of course you will have to raise that shutter speed on certain scenes if you want to avoid motion blur, but the principle is the way to go and so liberating when I first learned it.
??? by definition if you are in Aperture priority, the camera selects the appropriate shutter speed not you. If your camera allows that (which I have not seen yet), hay, there's the rub as you may end up not being able to take your photograph unless you are also in automatic ISO mode. I must be missing something here.
@@BrunoChalifour Yes, aperture priority but with "Auto ISO minimum shutter speed". You control the aperture, the camera controls ISO and SS, but by setting a minimum (to avoid motion blur) the camera will prioritize the ISO adjustment over the shutter speed. Most modern cameras have that or there are workarounds. In that mode if still underexposed it will have to hit your max ISO setting (say 6400, 8000, etc...) before it starts going lower than the minimum shutter speed. At that point it's probably night time so I would just go manual so you can dial in the ISO yourself and save you some stops of noise. Otherwise during the day the A-AISO-MINSS is perfect for street: set the camera to F8, min SS at 250, forget about the camera and just focus on subjects.
Nice video. I shot in manual for several yesrs but now i mostly shoot in aputure priority. But only with minimum and maximum set shutter speeds and minimum and maximum iso. Only if i need motion blur or have a fast scene where i want to freeze motion i will change to manual (or for astro or on my manual lenses) The rest i dial in with aputurecorrecting dial and watch to the histogram.:)🔥 so i can expose for highlights too..
GREAT VIDEO! I'm a veteran shooting street photography in Manual Mode with my Nikon D750 DSLR and lately been shooting with manual focus lenses as a change of pace:
Thanks for this info! HG- Chicago
Cartier-Bresson shot at 1/125 all the time, and opened or closed the aperture based on the light. It’s all about eliminating extra things to think about, same with shooting (mainly) one focal length.
This has to be one of the most informative and helpful tutorials I've seen. Thank you for this, and keep up the good work.
I use an older camera and so the ISO is noiser earlier- and of course I'm a different photographer. So the settings I use are quite different. But the logic is exactly the same and so I agree pretty much with everything here. I learned the Sunny 16 method first, and that's a handy guide if you're baffled, but I had to abandon it eventually for a similar system to the one stated (but as said slightly different due to camera difference and my own style.)
Great tips indeed, especially the final one on changing exposure according to ambient light.
I really appreciate the time and effort you put in to making these videos. Thank you so much. I’m new to Fuji and to street photography. It’s so reassuring and comforting to hear you talk about both! Thank you again for producing these very helpful videos.
Great points Roman! I had numerous issues when I was in manual and light changed quickly. The arrogance of manual mode got me. 😖
Now I try to keep an open mind and aperture priority rocks. After all, cameras are also there to work for you. 🤞
on the x100v i find it quickest to leave the camera in aperture priority with shutter speed and iso in auto. If the camera is struggling to meter the scene properly to expose for the highlights i'll quickly just dial the exposure comp up or down slightly to suit the scene
Like how you explained with the scenario makes it easier to understand.
I've got my first camera less than a week ago. Now trying to understand the manual settings. Been waiting few videos but still a bit confused.
Your video makes me understand clearly also sounds very practical. I just need to go out there a try now.
Thank you 🙏🏽 pls keep up the good work
I shoot mostly wildlife now. I use a lot of auto ISO while I control the aperture and shutter speed. Most newer cameras can go to a surprisingly high ISO before it really becomes an issue. I don't mind some noise and if it is too much I can try to clean it up in post.
I do this too for street photography. In Auto ISO the camera will a good job of always choosing the lowest ISO that gives you proper exposure given your other settings. This alllows me to concnetrate on shutter speed and aperture to get the look I want. I have had good luck using Topaz DeNoise AI to clean up very grainy shots. It works like magic. So I don't worry about high ISO any more.
This was very useful. You gave some practical information and advices I was allways missing. The method you presented helps me a lot and gives me a good starting point to practice and learn more. Thank you!
Even though I know almost everything about settings on my camera, still got to learn how to not miss a shot. Great videos. Subbed for lifetime. Love From India ❤️
Thank you. I always tried to keep shutter fixed at, say, 500 and control the exposure through ISO only (for the ease of turning only one dial). Always had problems with this approach. Had to raise ISO in dark areas to 6400, and ISO 160 was not low enough in very bright areas. So I ended up turning two dials most of the time (ISO and shutter). Your Method works much better. No problem with ISO 500 as default.
Thanks for the useful guide and tips. It highlights some of the great features of Fuji cameras.
Exposure comp. dial does the same thing just more intuitive, within the set perimeters of min shutter and max. acceptable iso.
The only advantage for street photography going shutter dial route is controling the motion blur.
This actually sounded more like shooting in shutter priority then truly shooting manual. Correct me please if I am wrong.
Thanks for this video! Even after years of photography, I still often find myself unsure of what setting to change when I have to react quickly, although I know what those settings do. Having a quick way to react is a great idea! And setting up the camera as soon as the light changes is a great piece of advice, thanks!
Brilliant mate, another top-grade informative and useful post. Jeez, you're good
Fantastic! What a lesson to learn, preparation and observation of the place moment and time! It’s full marks from me and I think that’s a full house!
DG New Forest UK
Wow. This really simplifies something that I have found mystifying! Thanks so much.
This makes sense. “High” ISO worries are overblown in my limited experience. Another great, practical video - thanks 😎
Some people feel more comfortable driving automatic cars. Some people prefer manual. It also depends on the situation and the vehicle. But then there are those who love the whole mechanics of connecting to the vehicle through manual operation regardless of the details. In photography, it's all about the destination, not the ride.
Thank you very much, really helpful. Not only your system but also your inspirational photos. 👍
Brilliant Roman, thanks for the information it has helped me no end
Great stuff. For for me, with my X-T4, I always have aperture on manual. For the rest if there's plenty of light I'll usually let Auto ISO handle it - with my hopping between my 1, 2 lr 3 Auto ISO categories depending on how broadly fast I want the shutter speed to be. I have my front control dial set to Exposure Compensation that I have areally instant way to adjust exposure. Auto ISO is great at keeping ISO as low as possible and then speeding up the shutter speed once that ISO bottoms-out, which is exactly what I'd do anyway in full manual so I let the computer handle it. But, when the light gets lower, it makes more sense to take over the shutter speed manually. Or, sometimes, in low light I'll just set the ISO to something I can just about tolerate and see if that makes the shutter speed fast enough. Stuff like that.
I keep my ISO mostly at 640 for a few reasons. DR400% preserves the highlights far better than base ISO, and it just makes life easier. Slight noise in the shadows doesn't bother me.
Sometimes I use aperture priority with DR400 setting and just use the exposure comp dial. Just gotta be careful not to over/underexpose too much. I find there's only about +/- 1 stop of leeway when using the DR setting, especially with film simulation recipes.
That is the point you got right: "Just gotta be careful not to over/underexpose too much." Now saying that 640 ISO preserve highlights BETTER than base ISO is a hard tale to believe.
@@BrunoChalifour Just check out Pal2tech's video on it. DR400 preserves highlights far better than 160. Even in raw files. It's not without compromises, since the sensor is reading and storing dual gain output, so the shadows will be noisier. The way I see it, I'm just trading the shadow dynamic range to be used in the highlights.
Edit: It also makes sense if you think about how F-log has a base of 640 iso. The highest possible dynamic range is actually not at base, but at 640.
@@BrunoChalifour ua-cam.com/video/RjjCa73XxsY/v-deo.html
@@professionalpotato4764 DR400 cannot invent information that the sensor (and its raw format) did not see. It is simply impossible. If you want to trade the shadows for the highlights all it takes is to shift the exposure toward the highlights. All that DR400 does is "false" HDR (artificially lightening the shadows at the risk of exposing noise, and there is more noise at 640 iso than 160 that is why I choose 160 over 640 if the lighting conditions allow it). There is strictly no extension of DR (it is scientifically impossible unless, and this would also be artificial, artificial intelligence on the camera processor invented the missing information. In any case we are not speaking then of DR but of an image created by artificial intelligence from the raw image. Remember that 640 iso is just the information provided by the 160 iso sensor once boosted which does increase noise (especially visible in the shadows)... it is just a fact.
@@BrunoChalifour It doesn't invent or create information. It simply reads the highlights at 160 and shadows at 640. Similar to how the Canon C70 works.
That's why I said it's a compromise. You won't get perfectly clean images. But does it have better highlight retention? Yes.
Noise at 640 is perfectly treatable with noise reduction too. Yes you lose detail. Again, compromises. I don't do large prints, so the minor detail loss means nothing to me.
Did you watch the video I linked?
My favorite way to shoot especially in dynamic situations: manual aperture and shutter speed, auto iso with exposure compensation assigned to one of the dials on my right hand.
I agree that fully manual settings are great for controlled situations like landscape and studio, but in street photography sometimes you don’t have the time to fiddle with exposure when your shot is walking right past.
You do not have to if your light source does not change. If it does you set it in advance.
I really resonate with your presentation style and would like to learn with you directly one day inshallah. Meanwhile, I've watched this video several times and going to give it a go. Thank you, you're a generous teacher
Being a landscape photographer, I use aperture priority with auto ISO. I keep exposure one stop under and 'lock' it. Sometimes I change ISO manually and exposure. Using mostly 24-104mm lens, I tend to try shoot between 80 & 200. Got a few great water rapid shots today using 3 stops under with a tripod. Using the 5D IV and 'L' lens of course. The combo allows me some pretty high ISO's with still nice pictures if needed, like last week in a cave shooting with limited light and too lazy to remove the polarizing filter.. lol
Thanks man... Your videos are very easy to understand. Help me a lot.
Hi Roman! Really enjoyed the video, thanks so much for sharing all your knowledge.
When I first got my Fuji I learnt using manual exposure. I have used aperture priority but always seem to go back to manual with auto iso. I will try these settings as I like the flexibility the higher iso gives you .
An excellent way of explaining this topic. I am looking forward to more ideas of your way of doing things.
Thanks for this, Roman, it makes it a lot easier to remember!
Lots of great insights, thank you. Digital is such a sticky wicket, too many choices plus the ability to shoot a huge amount of photos at no added cost and I'm suddenly wading through 60 photos of the same damn duck. For me, understanding workflow and planning a methodology is about being able to focus on composition and (hopefully) take less photos.
Just picked up a used XT-4. Thanks for the video! Will try this tip out today in Central Park :)
Thanks heaps Roman I love your work It’s always very enlightening and of course entertaining Great advice and especially liked the video as I have an XT-4 which I love 😊
Being relatively new to this discipline I found this advice very helpful.
I find all of your advices very useful and not just for street photography. Personally, I am going to focus more on shutter speed which unfortunately too often turns out to be too low. Great video! Thanks.
Cheers!
I always use manual exposure on my Fuji films I set a fixed aperture to a safety time based on what I have to photograph and then I use the ISO fair to compensate the exposure.
And on the Fuji xt5 it's fine to do this since the dials are softer
Good advice. Thank you.
Basically all of the time I use my aperture ring, half of the time I will use the shutter speed dial and for ISO I mostly use auto ISO and just limit that to either 1600, 3200 or 6400 depending on the light...I should really change that behavior.
Keep up the good work.
Since I am old and my muscle memory is not so good I have set my manual focus ring to change the ISO. This way I have only to turn the manual focus ring to get the the proper exposure after setting the shutter speed and aperture initially. I tried auto ISO but the scene gets dark when in bright light and vice versa and one has to lock the exposure and then compose. Now I compose first and then turn the manual focus ring ever so slightly to set the exposure. This method has given me many keepers.
Excellent video Roman!
Notes:
Use Manual Mode When:
---Challenging light, Consistent light
---Motion Blur, Freeze Motion
---Slow Down or Focus on Process
---Need Full Control for A specific scene
No Manual Mode When:
---Constantly changing light
---Fast Paced Environment
ISO
---Bright & constant daylight = Base (160)
---Overcast & constant light = (320)
---High contrast & changing light = (320-500)
Aperture
---Excess light, less separation, sharpest image = f8 - f11
Shutter Speed
1/125 - 1/4000
Ideally around 1/500 minimum
Great stuff as always Roman! Have no idea why I laughed so hard when you said “profusely”
Good video, the only thing you forgot to take into account is that highlight centric metering modes exist (tho not on Fuji`s , which you seem to shoot) . So that helps you use either A or S priority in those high contrast scenes where you want the highlight parts metered correctly. That's been a life-saving metering mode ever since Nikon introduced it in late 2014. And it's sad that my X100V doesn't have it.
Interesting mode from Nikon, but it is easy to get away with A or S just using negative exposure compensation.
Auto ISO can also very useful in many situations depending on what maximum ISO you find acceptable.
Some cameras you can set an auto ISO rang
I always shoot fully manual. Bur my subjects normally do not move :)) My experience with the XT3 is that in dark lighting the ISO 640 is perfect without any noise problems. I never use the ISO's between 160 and 640. It even makes it more simpler. In the XT3 engine at ISO 640 extra noise reduction is activated (for RAW). Yes at night I do use max ISO 1600 and will open more the lens. But as you I do like to adjust mostly with the shutterspeed to get the histogram OK, Aperture and ISO do stay the same most of the time.
This is really good advice, thank you for explaining your approach, I think it is very intuitive.
Thanks - very important advises you are giving here. Most useable :)
Happy to see some Lisbon footage 😁 Keep the good work my friend 👍
Thanks for your sharing from Hong Kong here !
Your videos are priceless ! Thank you !
Not that it matters that much, but you’re talking about f/4 on APS-C, that would be f/5.6 full frame equivalent. If you have time I would suggest looking into depth of field. Intuitively you can focus manually or autofocus on a mid point (1/3 of the way between closest and furthest point you want in focus) and check the image with the lens closed down (take the pic or press DoF preview button).
Great advise and thank you for the video on this subject.
I generally like to be in control of two of my settings instead of the camera being in control of two of them. A rarely use aperture priority mode. I mostly shoot in manual mode but if the light is changing a lot then I will use auto ISO. That way I control the depth of field and the shutter speed.
Before I made the switch to Fuji from canon earlier in the year, I would always rely heavily on just adjusting the SS. since changing to Fuji I explored the world of AP mode. And while it's good for certain circumstances, I've got so used to being 95% manual, I found it easier switching back to this on the Fuji recently. The dials are fun too.
Thank you, Roman .. very astute and mature presentation.
Thanks for your videos, they are the best in class!
Lovely video..cleared all my doubts.. the other day I had gone for a photo walk and the first shot I took was way under expose when I was using AP. I was wondering why? At F8,1/500 and base iso. I still couldn’t figure out why the shot was underexpose on a dark background. This video has help me understand the exposure triangle better and hopefully will not make the same mistake again and miss a shot. What about focusing mode would you use with your manual settings or AP?
Great informative video. Thanks for your honesty 👍
All good stuff and using a mix and match for various situations. Though I must admit to using auto ISO base to 800 250th & 5.6 both of which can be altered quickly as you said.
This is a wonderful presentation. Thank you so much.
I use either manual and aperture priority the first one when I take a sort of meditation photography and I want to focus on the action to take photos
Fantastic video as always. Thank you!
great and clear explanation thank you
This is very useful. The best I've seen. Thanks mate 😎
Bit confused Roman … in your Aperture priority video you used the example of the hat and the red post box for spot metering and using AEL, yet in this one you used the same images stating definitely manual only (you can’t use AEL in manual can you?) - I wonder if you can clarify please as these are the images I like taking, but sometimes struggle with the concept of ‘exposing for the highlights’ in manual. Thanks
6:25 ah so anywhere in wales, the weather here is so backwards at times, it will be sunny for a hour in the morning and then lashing down rain in the afternoon I struggle to use manual in these conditions its why now I try and just use Av. The same now goes for video I don't bother changing the ISO everytime I leave the house or a dark room I just let it sit at Auto, I wish there was more people like you on youtube Roman I've been fooled by the pros to always use manual in any condition which I'm glad I learned this is not the case early in my career.
So extremely well explained! You have true teaching skills 👌🏼👌🏼 Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Cheers!
Great informative video as always, I used to shoot a lot in manual but I switched to AP, as to diminish the number of variables to change in case I had to be quick. Now I feel like I over-rely on it a tad too much, which I'm traing to change as to ascertain that I don't settle on it out of easiness/lazyness.
Great info. Never thought about this. What about having iso on auto?
I agree with your settings. but I think you have to think about where are you going to show the pictures - Shutterfly, Instagram, large format printed picturedifference as to what quality you need for the end result. I shoot a lot of sports photos to post on Shutterfly using my X-T2 and a 100-400 lens. I set my aperture to give me a greater depth of field to get better in focus shots, I use a 500 to 800th shutter speed to allow some motion blur, anklet the ISO float. Obviously, for street photography or landscape shots I would use a different set-up. So, before you set-up the settings, you need to consider the where the shots are viewed, how much motion in the type of photography you are done, and can you use a tripod to hold the camera and take high quality shots.
Love your channel, and you inspoire me to get out and take more shots. Thanks
Whilst you may have a base of say ISO200, you may well find the optimum is ISO400. Cameras have NR for high iso and they seem to optimize above base. And again whilst all digital cameras degrade above ISO3200, modern ones can produce pretty acceptable results at ISO6400 or higher. Obviously high ISO is not for fine landscape or portrait. Don't be afraid of high iso. Ymmv.
Most cameras have a few metering modes, full, centre-weighted, spot, hi-light spot, lo-light spot. Use them.
A few cameras can use auto-iso with exposure compensation +/-EV on the fly. Keep an eye on the iso but you can quickly compensate for backlit for example.
A few of your shots, great foreground but the sky and clouds washed out to white. Play with the highlight/shadow gain curves to bring detail back in.
If you have serious stabilisation you can hand hold a standard lens down to about 1/20s if you're steady or run and gun at 1/60s, but that will not freeze motion blur. A 1/500s will freeze motion of birds.
Aperture is mainly for DoF. Most lenses sharpen up a click or two from wide open. Some lenses degrade above f/11, a good one will be happy at sunny-16. Think about the aperture when framing the shot. The aperture is not just for reducing the light. Know your lens.
There are no rules.
I’ve learned to bump up my iso during the day, and my photos I feel have improved….I like iso 800 during the day, shooting wildflowers….
Great advice best I've heard ..
Ap Priority, Greatest thing since cruise control!! :)
I just started my photographic journey and your videos are great. Thanks for sharing tips and knowledge. Quick question : what's the interest of ND filters? I don't understand the value of using one to add stops to get the aperture wide open. Wouldn't we reach a same outcome by using a smaller aperture and no nd filter? Thank you.
Very very useful tips. Thanks a lot 👍
Wondering if I could get some advice. I have an XT-3 with the 18-55mm lens. I find night time photography a nightmare with this - I generally need to zoom to get a proportional looking image of some cars and it bumps the aperture to F4 at the highest.
Last night I had to shoot at 1/15 handheld, on burst to get a focused image, with a 3200 ISO - in hindsight, I should’ve probably cranked this to 6400 and increased my shutter speed slightly but still ended up with shots too dark. Really happy with the lens during the day and at dusk, it’s very good but night time under a street lamp or something is just not doing it for me. Was considering a tripod to really slow the shutter but thinking I might need to go with something like a 35mm prime.
If I went with these low light settings, I’d end up with really dark image.
Not sure if you're up to answering questions on two year old posts, buuuuut.
X-T5, mostly with 35mm f/1.4 - I tend to push ISO *way* more often than shutter speed. (Another video of yours just slapped my wrist for leaving my aperture wide open all the time, so let's pretend I'm at 5.6 or 4 or what not.) Should I be futzing with shutter speed more than ISO? I'm asking because to me I'm risking motion blur with shutter speed, and only risking noise with ISO.
Is that a wrong/bad/less ideal way to look at it?
Thank you. Great tips.