Yamaha 4 Stroke Outboard Engine Carb Rebuild Series [5] Installation, Setup and Testing
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- Now in the final chapter of the series with the carbs fully assembled onto the silencer, a few hoses have arrived which will go to the fuel pump that will be replaced before we continue. The old ones are original and brittle. After this the pilot screws will be set to their factory specified position as they are currently fully closed.
Over at the engine I want to ensure that the throttle linkage is set correctly so I set my calipers to measure the linkage size and it turns out to be correct so its cleaned and reinstalled into position. With that the fuel filter is removed and brought over to the bench for cleaning and inspection. The filter itself was found to be in good condition so it was cleaned and reassembled and brought back over to the boat after drying.
The paper towels were removed from the intake from part 1, it was really dirty on the mating surface and took a significant amount of time to get everything clean. Everything was then checked and cleaned to ensure the carb would be installed without issue. The carb mounting screws were also cleaned up. The dip stick and breather hose removed allowed for clearance.
The whole assembly slides back on without issue guiding the top fuel hose as necessary, using the alignment pins as a guide, one bolt is used to hold everything together. All other bolts are then hand turned in slack only. Finally tightening from the middle outward. Followed by the two bolts securing the air silencer. The oil dipstick is immediately reinstalled and the throttle linkage snapped back onto the carb.
The fuel filter assembly is re-mounted onto the engine. All fuel hoses are reconnected as they were removed. Then the breather hose is reinstalled to the silencer box. All of the connections to the cold start valved are reconnected and dressed in properly.
After reviewing all of the work I test my carb balancers and I see there will be an issue working with more than two carbs at a time but ill still try in the video. first we test the full throttle stop with a feeler gauge and its good so we can get started. A tachometer is already on the boat so we do need to add one. Letting the unset engine warm up and trying to keep the idle at 1000rpm why checking for leaks is the first task. Its apparent that balancing all fours carbs at once will not work on my setup so I do two at a time.
Once balance is completed. The setting for accelerator pump engagement is setup. Finally I need to setup the idle screws in the final setup to remove a slight stumble on cylinder one and test everything out. Completing the task and the project.
#yamahaoutboards #yamahaoutboards
![Yamaha 4 Stroke Outboard Engine Carb Rebuild Series [1] Diagnosis and Carb Removal](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sOZtPyXawEk/mqdefault.jpg)
![Yamaha 4 Stroke Outboard Engine Carb Rebuild Series [3] Component Testing and Repair](/img/n.gif)
Best video for F50 maintenance ever!
Thank you.
I watch all 5 videos great job Thank you.
Glad you like them!
What a great series and excellent information. I have a 50hp Yamaha nearly identical to this and these videos will be a huge help when I'm ready to clean my carbs. Thank you!
Very good video , you cover all details excellent million likes for you
Thank you.
I really appreciate this series!! Thanks buddy...
You're welcome.
Uge help thank you 🙏. Very articulate with great illustration. I used the series of vids to clean my 2003 Yamaha F60TLRB carbs, test the cold start system, set the floats to 10mm, reassemble, reinstall, then sync with vacuum gauges. Now my outboard runs perfect! The symptoms that it had was a stumble due to fuel delivery between 3800-4500 RPM, and WOT was compromised at only 31-mph. Now the stumble is completely gone and the top speed is 34-mph. Findings: Someone had rebuilt the carbs in the past and the float bowls were all at different settings. Also there was a very slight fuel leak at the t-fitting under carb #4 resulting in an air leak only, no fuel was dripping. Set the floats to 10-mm and fixed the air leak. 🥇
This has been a great step by step series. I am waiting for the temps to drop just a little here in Arizona and I will be doing the same thing on my F50.
Good luck!
Great videos and very well done
Thank you.
These are some really well done videos!
Thank you very much!
Great job, J. Stellar attention to details, as usual.
Thanks much, Mr blades.
Thank you for this, my accelerator pump was way out of adjustment.
You're welcome.
Thank you for sharing your videos!!
Glad they we’re helpful
Very well put together thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice job. Thank you for posting
No problem!
working with carbs were such a pain in the ass. great video though!
Thanks!
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤
I enjoyed this video
Glad to hear it.
Great job
Thanks
Hello friend. Congratulations for your videos and the quality of your work. I hope you can help me. I have a friend's F50A that I can't fix. It has some misfire issues at idle and it revs up on its own and then drops back down in RPM. Can you guide me?
Awesome video and exactly what I am working on except mine is the F60TLRC. I disassembled the accelerator pump and the plunger was severely damaged. Can I replace just the rubber or do I need to order the whole assembly (69W-14369-00-00)? Also, can you explain if this is the cause of incredibly long cold starts. Is the motor usable with this damage? It runs at idle but haven't put in the water to rev up yet.
What would be the average price to have a shop rebuild the carburetors and sync them? I have a 03 f60
Not sure, id imagine 800+ or so at this point.
On my F60 Yamaha the T fuel fitting at the bottom of the carb assembly is cracked, so I'm just curious if I need to remove the entire carb assembly to get at it like in the 1st video or is there an easier way?
Thanks for the video!
Its always a good idea unless you are confident of a clean repair with it mounted.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
I just did this to my F100’s. Can I ask why the bottom carb had the idle pilot screw set differently, than the top 3? My manual called for 1.5 to 2.5 out. I set all of mine to 2.5 out, to run on the richer side, but noticed I had very subtle backfire at 2600-2800 rpm upon acceleration on initial trial run. I let it idle and trolled at lower speeds most of the day and then finally ran it to 5000 rpm towards the end of the day and could not hear the subtle backfire anymore.
Definitely one of the better videos on UA-cam on how to maintain earlier model Yamaha carbureted 4 strokes. Great motors, just a bit temperamental if not properly maintained. Subscribed to the channel and two thumbs up from San Diego!
You can show balance carb clear
Am impress for ur teaching now show us how to dismantle the engine and rebuild