Been a long while since I changed the oil in a vehicle. I'm just about to do my girlfriends "fun car" and this was the video that popped up. Pretty much exactly what I had expected but I really appreciate you taking the time to detail this.
It’s been 30 years since I did an oil change, so I decided to go for it. Thanks for the easy instructions. Any tips how not to spill oil when replacing the filter?
In the description, "The Most Common Oil Leak Spots on the Miata" still says "Coming Soon" the link is ua-cam.com/video/B-IQg67ogMw/v-deo.html for anyone wanting that.
1:40 30 ft-lbs. As for the oil filter, there are ways to remove the filter, easiest would obviously be from the passenger front wheel (driver front if the vehicle is RHD), just note the brace is in the way some what, if that brace was gone, it makes it a lot easier to access from the front end of the engine if the undertray was also removed. The brace serves no purpose if that helps. Another way would also be going from up top, but you must be careful on the NB chassis to not accidently disconnect the fuel line there, as it will spray you. Speaking of, when doing the oil filter, that will always leave a mess on your subframe, and it is wise to clean that off as much as you can. I am surprised as to why this video isn't out there or as popular since it will help out a lot of owners. I've seen too many people even to this day asking about what oil, how much, how to do, etc.
According to section D-5 of the 1990 Factory Service Manual, the official tightening torque is: 29-41 N⋅m (3.0-4.2 m-kg, 22-30 ft-lb) Therefore, both 25 and 30 ft-lb are technically correct. I personally prefer 26 ft-lb since its closer to the middle of the torque range. I am not sure if the tightening torque spec was ever revised or if later models specify a different range. So, YMMV.
@@GS-xp5jqAlso, speaking as a mechanical engineer, torque is about the worst way of estimating bolt tension. Just above “snug it up”. The actual tension on the bolt can vary a lot based on the lubricant between threads. So +\- a few ftlbs won’t really matter
The brace does in fact serve a purpose… it prevents the intake manifold and throttle body from experiencing extreme vibrations at high rpm. The throttle body is known to eject bolts into the intake on cars that see high RPM and the brace cuts down on that.
This is a good helpful video - but I could not figure out for the life of me how to reach the filter from under the car. I was at what I think is approximately the angle you filmed from, and it seemed completely unreachable. After a bit of finagling and frustration I realized it is most easily reachable from the wheel well (my wheels were already off for brake work). Maybe there is some angle I couldn't find from below, but my filter seemed totally unreachable (even after the painful process of removing my ancient, corroded undertray).
@@cccapsul I did take the splash guard off! I'm probably missing something, but for me even w/ the splash guard off (which was a pain b/c mine is ancient and full of mismatched screws/bolts) it was easiest to reach via the wheel well. I actually regretted taking the splash guard off b/c it didn't help me reach the filter.
I had basically the same exact experience except my wheel was still on. I spent a while taking out most of the screws from the splash guard and moving it out of the way, only to find out that the filter was still inaccessible 😂 I ended up just barely reaching it but couldn't undo it by hand, so I used a filter wrench. The best way I can describe my position is head first, feet sticking out past the bumper, head and shoulder by the passenger tire, and right arm all the way in. First time doing the filter on my NB and WOW. I'm used to my Honda that has the filter about 6 inches from the oil drain plug. Lol
Hello... I drive an MX 5 NA Miata 1.8L (only when the weather is nice), now 30 years old and has done 160,000 km. What kind of engine oil would you recommend? Thanks, Hardy
Prefilling the filter is unnecessary and in fact can hurt, just another way contaminants can get into your engine, because that middle section is what goes back into the engine. Some cars have completely "upside-down" filters where prefilling is impossible and the oil will eventually drain back into the pan when the engine is off. The oil pump will get oil everywhere super fast (~ ten seconds) upon first start.
Prefilling the filter is unnecessary and in fact can hurt, just another way contaminants can get into your engine, because that middle section is what goes back into the engine. Some cars have completely "upside-down" filters where prefilling is impossible and the oil will eventually drain back into the pan when the engine is off. The oil pump will get oil everywhere super fast (~ ten seconds) upon first start.
I just spent $145 for a synthetic oil change and air filter replacement. Never again. I can do this!
Been a long while since I changed the oil in a vehicle. I'm just about to do my girlfriends "fun car" and this was the video that popped up. Pretty much exactly what I had expected but I really appreciate you taking the time to detail this.
It’s been 30 years since I did an oil change, so I decided to go for it. Thanks for the easy instructions. Any tips how not to spill oil when replacing the filter?
In the description, "The Most Common Oil Leak Spots on the Miata" still says "Coming Soon" the link is ua-cam.com/video/B-IQg67ogMw/v-deo.html for anyone wanting that.
I got a 1991 1.6 miata that's silver just like this one! very simple but straight forward video! thanks man(:
1:40 30 ft-lbs. As for the oil filter, there are ways to remove the filter, easiest would obviously be from the passenger front wheel (driver front if the vehicle is RHD), just note the brace is in the way some what, if that brace was gone, it makes it a lot easier to access from the front end of the engine if the undertray was also removed. The brace serves no purpose if that helps. Another way would also be going from up top, but you must be careful on the NB chassis to not accidently disconnect the fuel line there, as it will spray you. Speaking of, when doing the oil filter, that will always leave a mess on your subframe, and it is wise to clean that off as much as you can. I am surprised as to why this video isn't out there or as popular since it will help out a lot of owners. I've seen too many people even to this day asking about what oil, how much, how to do, etc.
According to section D-5 of the 1990 Factory Service Manual, the official tightening torque is:
29-41 N⋅m (3.0-4.2 m-kg, 22-30 ft-lb)
Therefore, both 25 and 30 ft-lb are technically correct. I personally prefer 26 ft-lb since its closer to the middle of the torque range.
I am not sure if the tightening torque spec was ever revised or if later models specify a different range. So, YMMV.
@@GS-xp5jqAlso, speaking as a mechanical engineer, torque is about the worst way of estimating bolt tension. Just above “snug it up”. The actual tension on the bolt can vary a lot based on the lubricant between threads. So +\- a few ftlbs won’t really matter
@@garythecyclingnerd6219 Well said! I believe most torque specs also assume that the bolt/threads are new and undamaged.
The brace does in fact serve a purpose… it prevents the intake manifold and throttle body from experiencing extreme vibrations at high rpm. The throttle body is known to eject bolts into the intake on cars that see high RPM and the brace cuts down on that.
thanks this was super simplified😁
Is 5-w40 ok that’s what I saw😭
Great video...thanks!
This is a good helpful video - but I could not figure out for the life of me how to reach the filter from under the car. I was at what I think is approximately the angle you filmed from, and it seemed completely unreachable. After a bit of finagling and frustration I realized it is most easily reachable from the wheel well (my wheels were already off for brake work). Maybe there is some angle I couldn't find from below, but my filter seemed totally unreachable (even after the painful process of removing my ancient, corroded undertray).
You have to take the splash guard off.
@@cccapsul I did take the splash guard off! I'm probably missing something, but for me even w/ the splash guard off (which was a pain b/c mine is ancient and full of mismatched screws/bolts) it was easiest to reach via the wheel well. I actually regretted taking the splash guard off b/c it didn't help me reach the filter.
I had basically the same exact experience except my wheel was still on. I spent a while taking out most of the screws from the splash guard and moving it out of the way, only to find out that the filter was still inaccessible 😂 I ended up just barely reaching it but couldn't undo it by hand, so I used a filter wrench. The best way I can describe my position is head first, feet sticking out past the bumper, head and shoulder by the passenger tire, and right arm all the way in. First time doing the filter on my NB and WOW. I'm used to my Honda that has the filter about 6 inches from the oil drain plug. Lol
used this video to perform my first oil change, i forgot the drain plug washer 🤦♂
Hello... I drive an MX 5 NA Miata 1.8L (only when the weather is nice), now 30 years old and has done 160,000 km. What kind of engine oil would you recommend? Thanks, Hardy
20w50
10W 40
Prefilling the filter is unnecessary and in fact can hurt, just another way contaminants can get into your engine, because that middle section is what goes back into the engine. Some cars have completely "upside-down" filters where prefilling is impossible and the oil will eventually drain back into the pan when the engine is off. The oil pump will get oil everywhere super fast (~ ten seconds) upon first start.
Bro eye protection!
nah
Hahaha 10w40 here
5w40 🤭
Prefilling the filter is unnecessary and in fact can hurt, just another way contaminants can get into your engine, because that middle section is what goes back into the engine. Some cars have completely "upside-down" filters where prefilling is impossible and the oil will eventually drain back into the pan when the engine is off. The oil pump will get oil everywhere super fast (~ ten seconds) upon first start.
Wrong! Not filling can hurt you can. It will allow a dry start because at first will have zero oil pressure
No
Great video. Thank you.