I really like that you get right to it and stick to what you’re doing. Your style makes it very easy to follow along, PERFECT for a how to video! Thanks! I hope someone takes you up on the steering wheel install offer
Thanks! Hopefully it helps. Steering wheel is relatively easy. Only tool that is somewhat out of the ordinary is a puller which is like $20 on amazon. That said, if there’s anyone in SoCal that wants me to swap out a steering wheel, I’d be glad to do it and get some footage too
Great Video: Just tried it. I have a couple of comments / lessons learned. Dust Cap - Taking off the dust cap is easier with a pipe wrench and if you are not replacing the flange it will help keep you from gouging it up. Rotor/Hub - Getting the rotor separated from the Hub was tough. - loosening the bolts on the back of the hub with an impact wrench, I did the following - sprayed them with pb blaster - used the impact wrench to bump them back and forth (loose/tight) over and over until they broke loose - elevate the rotor with the hub hanging down. Used a piece of 4x4 over the hub and used a dead blow hammer. It took a while but it came out. put something soft on the ground below the hub. When it falls out you don't want the bolts hitting driveway Split / Retainer ring - to get the split ring to go on was tough. I had to get a larger split ring plier that would spread farther than the one I had. - The snap ring plier that I ended up buying on Amazon is the best one I have ever owned. You don't even have to change out the head to get it to spread vs squeeze. Much higher quality than the ones I have had in the past. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TG80SY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Bearings - I would also invest in the wheel bearing packing tool. It is a pain to do it by hand.
Sorry to post this in public comments. But this is NOT how to service wheel bearings", on a 100 series. 1) never mix races. If bearing are reused, it's important they go back in same race they came from. If bearing replaced, always replace race with bearing it came with. No press is needed. 2) Always fill cavity of wheel hub with grease, out to bearings. Centrifugal force pushes grease around in the wheel hub. If hub cavity dry, grease will be forced out of bearing into hub cavity, and bearings will burn up. 3) Best to have small outer bearing in wheel hub, as you place wheel hub on spindle of steering knuckle. This way wheel hub will not cock off at angle, possibly damaging inner oil seal (you just installed), as you let go to retrieve the bearing. 4) 5ft-lbf on adjusting nut is just starting point. These wheel bearings like to be set very tight. How tight depend on condition of bearings, the better condition the tighter. To find the proper torque on adjusting nut, factory recommend using a spring scale to set breakaway preload between 9.5.-15lb. Pre-load is the goal not torque. I get torques of anywhere from 20ft to 80ft-lbf (depending on condition of bearings & race, better the higher) on adjusting nut to hit a target of 12.5 lb breakaway preload. 5) Always recheck preload after torquing locking nut to 47ft-lbf, than lock locking washer on nuts. 6) Never reuse snap ring. 7) always check and set snap ring gap. Tips: a) wheel bearing service is recommend every 30K miles, sooner with over-sized tires, lifted, regular off-road use. b) Lube axle bearing and bushing every 30K miles also. c) Replace brake rotor if needed, after cleaning wheel hub and before installing wheel bearings & packing cavity with grease. d) Torque brake rotor bolts to spec. 7) De-grease brake rotor disk front and back sides, as final step. This is easiest to do, before place on the hub flange.
@@chowcaresSure, I'll leave it. You can find more of my postings in www.ih8mud.com tech section of the 100 series and some in 200 series. My handle is 2001LC. I've posted a lot on wheel bearings. forum.ih8mud.com/threads/master-thread-buying-pm-advance-maintenance-of-100-200-series.1041301/
Best video on UA-cam for this job, I remember there was only 2 videos on this bearing and front brake disk, defiantly doable for a average hand person. Defiantly need a torque wrench and that big socket, my brake cylinder was ceased so I had to buy couple remanufactured calipers. Good video! This video will more review in the future when lc100/lx470 gets a little less expensive as for a off-road toy.
Hi Chowcares, A superb video to the point and nicely done. Ive got 260K Kms on my 100 and now got the confidence to do this after watching your video. As mentioned by some (just some cc) having gone all the way I would recommend as well the racers replaced with new. Almost a must. And from an engineering best practises view, lock washes / Tab washers / spring clips and nuts should be replaced with new. In fact lock washers / lock nuts must never be reused. I still applaud you on this video makes it look very easy to do as well.
To race or not to race. The old race could have microcracks and material fatigue. The race could have a wear pattern that you are now putting on the new bearing surface. Even though it's more work, I would recommend changing the race with the bearings. That way you know it's all good for another 150K - 200K miles. When I did this on my cars when I was a young man it wasn't that difficult, the race popped out with a screw driver and a few taps around the back rim of the race.
Great video, thanks. 4 months old but I would have changed the bearing races while you got the hub assembly torn apart. You can borrow a bearing tool from your local parts stores.
Great detailed vid! Thanks! Ps - re the clunking noise/thump - I've had a number of 100 series cruisers, and it's usually actually the driveshaft (just lube it properly in all the pertinent locations usually gets rid of it). Cheers :)
chowcares not relevant to this post, I just changed my brake booster pump and accumulator, but the warning sign and squeaking noise came back on. Did you rebuild your master, and did you take it to the dealer ship to blead the system or update the skid Ecu.
When you jack up the SUV and you do the shake test on the tire and it wobbles instead of being tight, does that mean the bearings need to be replaced like in your video?
Definitely replace the bearing races with new bearings. I believe they are usually matched but could be thinking of older vehicles. You can use the old bearing as the press to tap the new race into place, just working your way around the race. For the preload on the lock washers/spindle nuts you should set the preload on the first nut so that the break away is around 15lbs (using a fish scale). This will set everything properly to ensure your preload on the spindle, bearings, etc. is all done properly. Read up on the MUD forums on it (user 2001LC has done a huge write-up and multi-part video series on it). But there is some discussion as to whether the FSM torque specs are on the "light" side. Another thing you should do for good measure is when you have the first washer on, you put an M8x1.25 thread bolt in the end of the axles and pull the axle in and out to help work out any bubbles in the grease that may be in there. Awesome job though dude!! Great video as always.
Definitely replace the bearings as a set. Easy to do with a hammer and punch to knock out the old cones, and refit the new ones. One of the first jobs the apprentices learn before they're allowed to play with a press.
@@chowcares Hey quick question, for the cone washer from Mr. T, did they come as a pack of X number or were they individual. Since I will basically be doing the same job and pretty sure the shop that did my axles previously used RTV instead of the gasket to seal everything, I am figuring I should replace them.
Do you have any AC leaks? I checked the common Passenger fender well bend there was any rust like the other people had, just wondering if you ran into this issue yet, please let me know
Thank you. I saw that fish scale thread too but I just don’t see a Toyota tech doing that at the dealer lol. So far, I’ve put 10k miles on the truck with zero issues. Food for thought
I thought I read somewhere in the fsm about preload tension as well? Good info about the flange.. I've been chasing down my driveline clunk and.... Might as well if I'm there...
Bearings come as a set , you have remove the race. It’s not that hard without a press. And installation bad either. Inner and outer. Use Loyola bearings for best job.
I gotta ask, for the full job (rotor replacement , bearing replacement, etc) is it essentially the same for both front and rear? Of course the front and rear pads are different but I’m just checking for like bearings in case I wanna completely go through my 360k mile Land Cruiser and make things tight again!
chowcares I’d definitely wanna go OEM Toyota. Just wanted to know if front and rear bearing replacements are basically the same aside from the different brake shoes haha
Brad Butler ohhh ok my bad I mis understood your question. The rear is a solid axle and to change the bearing is very different from the front. I haven’t done mine yet but I’m sure you can easily fine a vid on solid rear axle bearings.
Chow, Thanks for posting these videos and the links to parts you buy. They are truly appreciated. Do you by any chance know about Toyotapartsdeal.com ? They usjally have pretty good pricing on OEM parts. If you have a stealership in your area, that doesn't make money off parts, they will usually match the price if you purchase the parts from them. Just trying to help another Cruiser buddy😎
Thank you! I have ordered thru them before! I tried to price match them at my local dealership, sometimes they do, sometimes that don’t. But definitely good to know!
You're supposed to initially tighten the inner nut to 4 lb then you need to see how much weight it takes to turn with a fish scale and READJUST the tq on the nut until the proper amount of weighg on the fish scale .....usually with new bearings your ginna be closer to 30-40 ft lbs.......leaving it like this and not checking how many lbs it takes to turn is wrong your bearings will wear out in no time. Google it there are many threads on this on the forums
Your Cruiser videos are better and easier to follow than ones done by mechanics. Thanks for saving us dollars Chow 👍
I really like that you get right to it and stick to what you’re doing. Your style makes it very easy to follow along, PERFECT for a how to video!
Thanks!
I hope someone takes you up on the steering wheel install offer
Thanks! Hopefully it helps. Steering wheel is relatively easy. Only tool that is somewhat out of the ordinary is a puller which is like $20 on amazon.
That said, if there’s anyone in SoCal that wants me to swap out a steering wheel, I’d be glad to do it and get some footage too
Great Video:
Just tried it. I have a couple of comments / lessons learned.
Dust Cap
- Taking off the dust cap is easier with a pipe wrench and if you are not replacing the flange it will help keep you from gouging it up.
Rotor/Hub
- Getting the rotor separated from the Hub was tough.
- loosening the bolts on the back of the hub with an impact wrench, I did the following
- sprayed them with pb blaster
- used the impact wrench to bump them back and forth (loose/tight) over and over until they broke loose
- elevate the rotor with the hub hanging down. Used a piece of 4x4 over the hub and used a dead blow hammer. It took a while but it came out. put something soft on the ground below the hub. When it falls out you don't want the bolts hitting driveway
Split / Retainer ring
- to get the split ring to go on was tough. I had to get a larger split ring plier that would spread farther than the one I had.
- The snap ring plier that I ended up buying on Amazon is the best one I have ever owned. You don't even have to change out the head to get it to spread vs squeeze. Much higher quality than the ones I have had in the past. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TG80SY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bearings
- I would also invest in the wheel bearing packing tool. It is a pain to do it by hand.
Thanks for the detailed input! I’m sure it will help a lot of others that are planning to do this job
Chow ur a life saver. I just finished an upper and lower ball joint job and im doing this job next. Officially my favorite yt channel.
🥰🥰🥰🥰
Hey Chris, its always advisable to change the outer race, also a tip change gloves when packing grease to minimize contaminates. thanks
Thanks! I will for sure next time!
Sorry to post this in public comments. But this is NOT how to service wheel bearings", on a 100 series. 1) never mix races. If bearing are reused, it's important they go back in same race they came from. If bearing replaced, always replace race with bearing it came with. No press is needed. 2) Always fill cavity of wheel hub with grease, out to bearings. Centrifugal force pushes grease around in the wheel hub. If hub cavity dry, grease will be forced out of bearing into hub cavity, and bearings will burn up. 3) Best to have small outer bearing in wheel hub, as you place wheel hub on spindle of steering knuckle. This way wheel hub will not cock off at angle, possibly damaging inner oil seal (you just installed), as you let go to retrieve the bearing. 4) 5ft-lbf on adjusting nut is just starting point. These wheel bearings like to be set very tight. How tight depend on condition of bearings, the better condition the tighter. To find the proper torque on adjusting nut, factory recommend using a spring scale to set breakaway preload between 9.5.-15lb. Pre-load is the goal not torque. I get torques of anywhere from 20ft to 80ft-lbf (depending on condition of bearings & race, better the higher) on adjusting nut to hit a target of 12.5 lb breakaway preload. 5) Always recheck preload after torquing locking nut to 47ft-lbf, than lock locking washer on nuts. 6) Never reuse snap ring. 7) always check and set snap ring gap. Tips: a) wheel bearing service is recommend every 30K miles, sooner with over-sized tires, lifted, regular off-road use. b) Lube axle bearing and bushing every 30K miles also. c) Replace brake rotor if needed, after cleaning wheel hub and before installing wheel bearings & packing cavity with grease. d) Torque brake rotor bolts to spec. 7) De-grease brake rotor disk front and back sides, as final step. This is easiest to do, before place on the hub flange.
Yup, I know about the race 🤦🏻♂️
@@chowcares I'll delete post now that you've read it, if that's okay with you?.
ME MY it’s really good info for everyone interested, if you don’t mind I’d leave it up
@@chowcaresSure, I'll leave it. You can find more of my postings in www.ih8mud.com tech section of the 100 series and some in 200 series. My handle is 2001LC. I've posted a lot on wheel bearings.
forum.ih8mud.com/threads/master-thread-buying-pm-advance-maintenance-of-100-200-series.1041301/
ME MY thanks! I appreciate you taking the time to comment, it will definitely benefit the land cruiser community
Best video on UA-cam for this job, I remember there was only 2 videos on this bearing and front brake disk, defiantly doable for a average hand person. Defiantly need a torque wrench and that big socket, my brake cylinder was ceased so I had to buy couple remanufactured calipers. Good video! This video will more review in the future when lc100/lx470 gets a little less expensive as for a off-road toy.
thanks! hopefully they get cheaper, but looking at current trends, ive seen the prices of 100 series slowly creeping up. we'll see what happens tho!
This video and others have been super helpful to me, thank you! New owner of a 2005 LC with 225k in Michigan, so lots to do!
Also, these nuts.😂
Great video, you got me out of a jam trying to figure out how to get the cone washers out. Saved me $750-$1k up here (Seattle area).
Hi Chowcares, A superb video to the point and nicely done. Ive got 260K Kms on my 100 and now got the confidence to do this after watching your video. As mentioned by some (just some cc) having gone all the way I would recommend as well the racers replaced with new. Almost a must. And from an engineering best practises view, lock washes / Tab washers / spring clips and nuts should be replaced with new. In fact lock washers / lock nuts must never be reused. I still applaud you on this video makes it look very easy to do as well.
Thank you! Yea next time around I will be changing everything. Maybe in another 50k miles
To race or not to race. The old race could have microcracks and material fatigue. The race could have a wear pattern that you are now putting on the new bearing surface. Even though it's more work, I would recommend changing the race with the bearings. That way you know it's all good for another 150K - 200K miles. When I did this on my cars when I was a young man it wasn't that difficult, the race popped out with a screw driver and a few taps around the back rim of the race.
Yuuuuup! I know, next time for sure
Yeah, those old races aren't going to allow you to go another 100k.
Great video, thanks. 4 months old but I would have changed the bearing races while you got the hub assembly torn apart. You can borrow a bearing tool from your local parts stores.
Yea I should’ve. Oh well next time...
when i have time, i will try to do this in my '04 LC. great video
Thanks!
Just ordered some flanged to do this job myself
Great detailed vid! Thanks! Ps - re the clunking noise/thump - I've had a number of 100 series cruisers, and it's usually actually the driveshaft (just lube it properly in all the pertinent locations usually gets rid of it). Cheers :)
Thanks!!
Great video, only thing I would suggest is to check the preload -14.5lb.
thanks! i'll double check but may i ask where you go that spec?
@@chowcares From the toyota repair manual and my local toyota dealer.
2001lc on mud goes over this extensively. You can see how he achieves it bu watching his UA-cam tutorial. His channels name is MeMy
Nice job very clear and detailed
Thank you very much best Toyota Land Cruiser💯 rotors change videos in you tube 👍👍👍
Thank you!!
Thanks for the help chow
You’re welcome!
Have you done a steering rack on your 100?
nice video. Gives me a lot of confidence that I can do this too :)
Believe to achieve!! Haha
This is it? I just got quoted $2300 for this. Thanks for making this video Chow
Would it be a good idea to use some antisieze on the cone washers to make it easier to remove later if needed?
Quick question. Planning on doing this real soon. For parts I’m guessing buying double of each part listed for both driver and passenger.
Correct. Left and right for the 100 series is the same (bearings, seals, cv axles etc.
chowcares not relevant to this post, I just changed my brake booster pump and accumulator, but the warning sign and squeaking noise came back on. Did you rebuild your master, and did you take it to the dealer ship to blead the system or update the skid Ecu.
Nice rx-7s
🤫🤫🤫
When you jack up the SUV and you do the shake test on the tire and it wobbles instead of being tight, does that mean the bearings need to be replaced like in your video?
check your tie rods and ball joints
You hold 12 and 6 the give it a shake. If it wobbles it’s likely bad bearings
This has been a very helpful video, thanks! Excuse my ignorance, but are these flanges only on the front axels? How about the back axel?
Niceeee I just change the brake pad and the bearing my 100 series 😎
Good stuff!!!
Use koyo bearings need to preload the bearing when installing..
What do you mean by preload the bearings? I’m about to change mine next week
I am having problem separating hub from the front rooter. any suggestions?
Thanks.
Definitely replace the bearing races with new bearings. I believe they are usually matched but could be thinking of older vehicles. You can use the old bearing as the press to tap the new race into place, just working your way around the race. For the preload on the lock washers/spindle nuts you should set the preload on the first nut so that the break away is around 15lbs (using a fish scale). This will set everything properly to ensure your preload on the spindle, bearings, etc. is all done properly. Read up on the MUD forums on it (user 2001LC has done a huge write-up and multi-part video series on it). But there is some discussion as to whether the FSM torque specs are on the "light" side. Another thing you should do for good measure is when you have the first washer on, you put an M8x1.25 thread bolt in the end of the axles and pull the axle in and out to help work out any bubbles in the grease that may be in there.
Awesome job though dude!! Great video as always.
Thanks for the tips!! I’ll keep that in mind
Definitely replace the bearings as a set. Easy to do with a hammer and punch to knock out the old cones, and refit the new ones. One of the first jobs the apprentices learn before they're allowed to play with a press.
@@chowcares Hey quick question, for the cone washer from Mr. T, did they come as a pack of X number or were they individual. Since I will basically be doing the same job and pretty sure the shop that did my axles previously used RTV instead of the gasket to seal everything, I am figuring I should replace them.
Hello from where you bay this part parts ? online ?
Toyotapartsdeal.com is good place to start, or amazon. Check out the link in the description below
Torque values for mounting the rotor-to-hub with the five bolts?
Did this actually solve the "Clunk" issue?
Do you have any AC leaks? I checked the common Passenger fender well bend there was any rust like the other people had, just wondering if you ran into this issue yet, please let me know
i dont think so, but i'll check again later today.
Races matched to bearings...change both to have a chance to last another 200000 miles 🙂
Dude, this is a great video and I am going to tackle it soon.... some say to use a fish scale
Thank you. I saw that fish scale thread too but I just don’t see a Toyota tech doing that at the dealer lol. So far, I’ve put 10k miles on the truck with zero issues. Food for thought
I thought I read somewhere in the fsm about preload tension as well? Good info about the flange.. I've been chasing down my driveline clunk and.... Might as well if I'm there...
Thank you for sharing, subscribed! :)
Bearings come as a set , you have remove the race. It’s not that hard without a press. And installation bad either. Inner and outer. Use Loyola bearings for best job.
Yea, next time!
I gotta ask, for the full job (rotor replacement , bearing replacement, etc) is it essentially the same for both front and rear? Of course the front and rear pads are different but I’m just checking for like bearings in case I wanna completely go through my 360k mile Land Cruiser and make things tight again!
For something like bearings I sure you can use aftermarket, but I would definitely recommend oem Toyota. They’ve stood the test of time
chowcares I’d definitely wanna go OEM Toyota. Just wanted to know if front and rear bearing replacements are basically the same aside from the different brake shoes haha
Brad Butler ohhh ok my bad I mis understood your question. The rear is a solid axle and to change the bearing is very different from the front. I haven’t done mine yet but I’m sure you can easily fine a vid on solid rear axle bearings.
chowcares No worries man, love the builds going so far! Giving me tons of ideas for my 2000 Land Cruiser!
How do you find parts 1 and 3 of this series?
Check out my videos, they’re listed as part 1 & 3
Subbed!
Thanks!
Thanks for this Video
You Are doing nice Videos but My english is Not so good to understand everything you Talk 😅
Cheers from Austria 😎
Thank you!!
Curious, where did you learn how to do this? Are you a mechanic or is this hobby for you?
Hobby
Bad practice not to change the bearing outer race with the new roller.
Love your videos but I cringed when you broke loose that flange with your Tq wrench
Chow,
Thanks for posting these videos and the links to parts you buy. They are truly appreciated. Do you by any chance know about Toyotapartsdeal.com ? They usjally have pretty good pricing on OEM parts. If you have a stealership in your area, that doesn't make money off parts, they will usually match the price if you purchase the parts from them. Just trying to help another Cruiser buddy😎
Thank you! I have ordered thru them before! I tried to price match them at my local dealership, sometimes they do, sometimes that don’t. But definitely good to know!
You're supposed to initially tighten the inner nut to 4 lb then you need to see how much weight it takes to turn with a fish scale and READJUST the tq on the nut until the proper amount of weighg on the fish scale .....usually with new bearings your ginna be closer to 30-40 ft lbs.......leaving it like this and not checking how many lbs it takes to turn is wrong your bearings will wear out in no time. Google it there are many threads on this on the forums